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Com-Pac 16 - a good sail?
- Thread starter mdsdurango
- Start date Apr 24, 2013
- Brand-Specific Forums
I was attracted to a very sweet little Compac 16 on the internet that sold before I got there. I've been actively searching for a small trailer able boat and like the looks of these little boats but - how do they sail? Are they Fun? Fast? Stable? Safe? Asking all Compac 16 owner to chime in. Thanks, Mike
sailingandsuch
Although I'm not a Compac 16 owner, I'll chime in anyhow. Before I got my little gem of a boat I was considering a Compac 16 as an option and I liked it. I have been around a few but never sailing on one. One thing I like to do is read about adventures in small sailboats. I read a few of people on Compac 16's, here are the links if your interested. A lot of times they will give hints of how the boat handles and sails in their journals. http://www.adventurevista.com/Cruising-Florida-2010.php http://www.valsimon.com/SailingtotheBahamas.htm
I just took my 1978 Com-Pac 16 out for the first time yesterday. She was quick, stable and fun. I had three adults and two kids on board with light winds and we were doing 6 mph. When we caught the wind gusts she listed over, but we were never close to flipping. I will probably have to order one of those owners manuals I keep hearing about, but a couple of morons who never sailed more than a Sunfish figured it out and had a blast.
I have just bought one, haven't taken it out yet still trying to gather a few things to get it ready to go out.
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Buying a Compac 16
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Post by Art Haberland » Mon Jan 13, 2020 2:01 am
Re: Buying a Compac 16
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At The Helm
At The Helm is about sharing my sailing experiences and innovations I have tried over many years. I have owned many different classes from dinks, catamarans and settling on trailerable mono-hulls. Your sailing grounds are from lakes to the oceans and the capability of going solo or with family, or friends is possible. I believe if you can sail, you are ready for the unexpected. With that experience, there is very little in life that will stand in your way.
Tuesday, April 19, 2011
Com-pac 16 and 16-2.
COM-PAC 16 Detailed Review
If you are a boat enthusiast looking to get more information on specs, built, make, etc. of different boats, then here is a complete review of COM-PAC 16. Built by Com-Pac Yachts/ Hutchins Co. and designed by Clark Mills, the boat was first built in 1972. It has a hull type of Fin w/transom hung rudder and LOA is 4.88. Its sail area/displacement ratio 17.30. Its auxiliary power tank, manufactured by undefined, runs on undefined.
COM-PAC 16 has retained its value as a result of superior building, a solid reputation, and a devoted owner base. Read on to find out more about COM-PAC 16 and decide if it is a fit for your boating needs.
Boat Information
Boat specifications, sail boat calculation, rig and sail specs, contributions, who designed the com-pac 16.
COM-PAC 16 was designed by Clark Mills.
Who builds COM-PAC 16?
COM-PAC 16 is built by Com-Pac Yachts/ Hutchins Co..
When was COM-PAC 16 first built?
COM-PAC 16 was first built in 1972.
How long is COM-PAC 16?
COM-PAC 16 is 4.27 m in length.
What is mast height on COM-PAC 16?
COM-PAC 16 has a mast height of 4.95 m.
Member Boats at HarborMoor
Sailing South Dakota
Our 1982 compac 16 "grace period".
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Com-Pac 16 MK 2
Com-Pac 16 MK 2 is a 16 ′ 11 ″ / 5.2 m monohull sailboat designed by Clark Mills and built by Com-Pac Yachts starting in 1975.
Rig and Sails
Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.
The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.
Classic hull speed formula:
Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL
Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL
Sail Area / Displacement Ratio
A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.
SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3
- SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
- D : Displacement in pounds.
Ballast / Displacement Ratio
A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.
Ballast / Displacement * 100
Displacement / Length Ratio
A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.
D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³
- D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
- LWL: Waterline length in feet
Comfort Ratio
This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.
Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )
- D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
- LOA: Length overall in feet
- Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet
Capsize Screening Formula
This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.
CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)
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 | | | Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on Cruisers Forums. | | 19-07-2010, 20:21 | | Boat: not much yet
| .
Opinions as a first learner ?
Thanks in advance. | | | | | 19-07-2010, 21:37 | | Boat: 2017 Leopard 40
| or do an overnight "boat camping" simple rig to set up to handle. Con . takes away and foredeck space that is more important in a that size . IMHO you'd do MUCH better in any number of better sailing that are designed as day sailors with open cockpits and either open bow or cuddy spaces in the bow -- not "pocket cruisers" with cabins. For higher performance look at or for more comfortable and controlled sailing look for a . A few great sailing (keel) boats of that era that come to mind are 15, O-Day 19 / Rhodes 19. With a weighted -- if you really want a "pocket cruiser" with cabin look at the West Wight Potter 19. (I used to own a West Wight Potter 15 and it was too slow, and too small to have a cabin.) If you want higher performance look at the 420, as an example. | | | | | 23-07-2010, 15:02 | | | | . I thought it was a great first boat. True, it didn't point well, but I didn't consider that to be very important. I just wanted to spend a day on the and stay dry.
I moved on to a Pearson-26 a few years later. By then, I was able to appreciate the Pearson's nicer sailing characteristics. I'm now trying to master an old C&C-33. It's a fun process.
Bob Moriarty
Ox '76 C&C-33
Jax, FL | | | | | 23-07-2010, 15:36 | | Boat: Trotter 22'
| to the :
| | | | | 23-07-2010, 16:18 | | Boat: not much yet
| poorly? | | | | | 23-07-2010, 17:54 | | Boat: 14 meter sloop
| | 23-07-2010, 18:32 | | Boat: 1981 Com-Pac 23
| | | | | | 23-07-2010, 19:33 | | Boat: Valiant 40 (1975)
| and is a micro cruiser. But it will go into waves more than I will.
BTW- come over to the Compac Owners Forum...we have a few for sail now and again. | | | | | Thread Tools | | | | Rate This Thread | :
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Compac 16' Keel advice neededHello, I recently purchased a 1976 compac 16' and would like to know what the material is used for keel ballast. I drilled a couple of 1/4" holes in the bottom of the keel and water came out ao I am assuming that the keel material will have to be removed and replaced with.... what? Any and all advice is greatly appreciated. Compac themselves are still around and I expect would be willing to help. I thought they were concrete ballast. How do you expect the water got inside? Obviously, something got you to drill the holes.  I beleive they have encapsulated concrete ballast. But, emailing the manufacturer is a good idea. When I got the boat there was standing water on top of the keel with numerous cracks in the stuff ( FG?) covering the ballast so basically it had to leak... I drilled a couple of inspection holes and water weeped out. Sounds like some fairly serious structural issues (cracks through the glass). Be sure you know the right thing to do to remain safe. It stands to reason that the ballast has delaminated from its encapsulation. It doesn't sound like a band aid job to me. Hey Chuck1947b: There is a wealth of information available on the CPYOA Blog, including several complete rebuilds of C-16's from the keel up. Com-Pac Yacht Owners Association - Index C-16's are great and great looking daysailers. They are not manufactured any more but Hutchins is still in business. https://www.com-pacyachts.com Best of luck. regards charlie  If it was mine, I would just drill a few more holes, let it dry for a couple of months, and seal it up. Maybe see if you could get epoxy to flow through from the top. Then plug the holes on the bottom, and fill the void with epoxy. Again, this is just me. There is probably a better way to do this. Interesting job. Are you going to remove the bilge to access the ballast or go through the encapsulation from the outside. The bilge would leave an intact encapsulation to refill, but then you need to structurally replace the bilge. The encapsulation probably needs to be reinforced, but more curious is how you insure a good bond to the encapsulation, when you refill. The lead will change the weight of the ballast, but I doubt that will make sailing her all that different. If significant, it may alter her waterline though. Is your plan to imbed the ingot into an epoxy slurry of some kind? Insuring this slurry bonds to the existing glass? Minnewaska said: Interesting job. Are you going to remove the bilge to access the ballast or go through the encapsulation from the outside. The bilge would leave an intact encapsulation to refill, but then you need to structurally replace the bilge. The encapsulation probably needs to be reinforced, but more curious is how you insure a good bond to the encapsulation, when you refill. The lead will change the weight of the ballast, but I doubt that will make sailing her all that different. If significant, it may alter her waterline though. Is your plan to imbed the ingot into an epoxy slurry of some kind? Insuring this slurry bonds to the existing glass? Click to expand... Cool idea with the lead. It should sit lower in the keel and make the boat stiffer. It will be less dense so you will have some void space to fill. You might want to consider the weight of the filler too. Those compac 16s are already pretty heavy boats, so I wouldn't want to over do it. The ingots may or mayn't fit together well. I made up a mould of 2" angle irons welded with flat bar strip for ends. they fit together well one row up to next row down. Length could be how wide the cavityy is. after lots of strengthening glass. Fill with slow kicking resin. Same weight as concrete but lower down is good. I've seen on other sites and the net where people have good luck cutting lead with a course, carbide tipped skil saw, miter saw, table saw, etc. So I can always cut an ingot into filler pieces and then slurry it in.... I hope...lol. You know concrete ballast just sounds like a bad idea, esp since the top of the ballast is the lowest point in the hull making it an ideal little reservoir for any intruding water. I thank god I'm in florida and don't have any freezes to worry about or good bye keel I would think. This may sound dumb but why the "strengthening glass"? If you lay and fill around the ingots and then slurry it, that should suffice, no? Seems to be a lot of work that may be unnessary Maybe a bit of tear off in the bilge and decide if a good layer of glass will do while the water. drips out below. Well, I've decided on the lead. According to the reaearch I have done you get a lot more bang for the buck if you use lead. Also I want to make sure it good and dry so the top is getting popped and the concrete taken out. I want a total restoration and not be worrying about a keel being half repaired, or anything else for that matter. One advantage of concrete is absolute symmetry in weight distribution. When you place the ingots, you're going to need to distribute them very evenly and intently. Good piece of advice, I'll try to send in pics as I go along. I appreciate all your concern and good points/advice. Talk to ComPac (Hutchins Boat Works). They replaced my stainless steel center board trunk with a new fiberglass one for around $1400. I have a 2002 SunCat. Great people to work with. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk I owned a late 70s Com Pac 16 and when I got it it had suffered a grounding at the leading edge of the keel and the glass encasement at the bottom had split from the forward edge down the port side at the turn about 2/3rds of the way aft. The ballast was solid lead and was exposed, obviously. I repaired it by first cutting back and dressing up the ragged edges of the keel encasement, then used a tube of West Marine self-mixing Six10, the caulking tube stuff, which I injected between the lead keel and the fiberglass encasement, all along the bottom. I then used a floor jack with a 2x4 on it so it applied pressure the full length of the bottom of the keel and sandwiched the encasement up against the lead keel. Six10 was forced out as it the space between the keel and encasement was closed up. I spread the excess that squirted out along the gap to fill in the edge that I'd cut back and dressed up. Once the epoxy had cured I sanded the edge smooth and roughed up the encasement up several inches along the leading edge, bottom, and port side of the keel, before applying fiberglass woven roving wetted out with epoxy. Once cured I fared the keel repair using an orbital sander. Then I used plain old white spray paint to finish it up. Looked pretty good and never had any further problems with any delamination or any other issues. The boat had been on the hard for a while before doing this and so the keel was fully dry before I effected the repair. Top Contributors this Month | | | | |
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ODay 12.5 Lake Hopatcong. Apr 29, 2013. #3. I just took my 1978 Com-Pac 16 out for the first time yesterday. She was quick, stable and fun. I had three adults and two kids on board with light winds and we were doing 6 mph. When we caught the wind gusts she listed over, but we were never close to flipping.
I almost bought a Compac 16 a few years ago but felt negative vibes from the wife about buying any new (at least to me) boat so I didn't. A year later I figured better to ask for forgiveness than permission and bought a Helson 22. I had to sell that one when I moved to Florida since I couldn't tow it down here.
The Com-Pac 16 and 16-2 specifications: LOA 16'0" (CP) and 16'11" (CP2) LWL 14'0" Beam 6'0" Draft 18" (Fixed Shoal Keel) Displ 1,100 lbs Ballast 450 lbs Sail Area 115 sq ft (Main and Jib) 155% Genoa 60 sq ft. The difference of the two was the additional 11" bow sprit which placed the forward stay before the bow which changed the handling ...
It takes into consideration "reported" sail area, displacement and length at waterline. The higher the number the faster speed prediction for the boat. A cat with a number 0.6 is likely to sail 6kts in 10kts wind, a cat with a number of 0.7 is likely to sail at 7kts in 10kts wind. KSP = (Lwl*SA÷D)^0.5*0.5
P-15 versus Com-Pac 16. I am considering the purchase of our first boat and am looking at something small. There is both a West Wight Potter 15 and a Com-Pac 16 available. If anyone has thoughts or opinions on which would be the preferred boat I would love to hear them. The boat would be used mostly for inland lake sailing (lots of light air ...
Compac 16 "Lillyanna". The Lillyanna is a 1981 Compac 16. She was built in Florida, and before my ownership had somehow made it into Mexico and was in Colorado when I bought her. I made numerous modifications to the boat and now use it for family sailing in Wisconsin, as well as for what has become an annual 3 night, four day, adventure on the ...
1 of 1. If you are a boat enthusiast looking to get more information on specs, built, make, etc. of different boats, then here is a complete review of COM-PAC 16. Built by Com-Pac Yachts/ Hutchins Co. and designed by Clark Mills, the boat was first built in 1972. It has a hull type of Fin w/transom hung rudder and LOA is 4.88.
The Compac 16 is a very well built sailboat with a devoted, informed, and helpful community of sailors from which to seek ideas and advice. While not the greatest performer to windward, Compac 16s are very stable and comfortable sailing boats - perfect for a young family. We owned "Grace Period" from 2000 to 2005, when it became increasingly ...
Com-Pac 16 is a 16′ 0″ / 4.9 m monohull sailboat designed by Clark Mills and built by Com-Pac Yachts starting in 1972. Great choice! Your favorites are temporarily saved for this session. ... 1984 Compac 16 $2,500 USD. Have a sailboat to sell? List it for free and it will show up here. Advertisement. Great choice! Your favorites are ...
A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize. Formula. 40.88. <40: less stiff, less powerful.
It was designed to facilitate trailering, not sailing. Compare the underwater lines of the Compac 16 with something like a Santana 22, and you'll see a world of difference. cruising is entirely about showing up--in boat shoes. Personally think it would make a great little starter boat.
The Com-Pac 16 is a recreational keelboat, built predominantly of fiberglass, with teak wood trim. It has a 7/8 fractional sloop rig with anodized aluminum spars and a bowsprit.The hull has a spooned plumb stem, a vertical transom, a transom-hung rudder controlled by a tiller and a fixed fin, shoal-draft keel. [1] [3]The boat has a draft of 18 in (46 cm) with the standard keel and is normally ...
I have a 23/II. Check the damn bulkheads, bet you $100 their rotting buddy. I also recommend a book called Handbook of Trailer Sailing by Robert F Burgess. He had a 16 and a 19 and the book is full of great information. Booms typically attach near the bottom of the mast and the aft end is held up by the raised sail.
Standing the mast with the Com-Pac Boomtendr system, launching the boat off the trailer, and sailing the Com-Pac Legacy 16 on Charlotte Harbor. Video from Gu...
Some stills and video of the last sail of 2021 for me. Refurbished the cabin with new paint and carpet in the foredeck storage area. Installed a pair of de...
Welcome to our Compac 16 sailboat owners group. The Com-Pac 16 is an American trailerable sailboat that was designed by Clark Mills as a small cruiser and first built in 1972! Production. The design was built by Com-Pac Yachts in the United States, starting in 1972. Over 2,800 boats were completed, but it is now out of production.
Boat Review Forum. SailNet is a forum community dedicated to Sailing enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about sailing, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, repairs, reviews, maintenance, and more! ... Compac 16 is a more robust, tank of a sailboat, considered a POCKET cruiser... an extreme sense of the word. ...
4 posts · Joined 2007. #9 · Jul 10, 2007. the Com-Pac is has a similar keel - I think it's 450 lbs for a 1000 lb boat. 12" draft.. I've heard good things about both the Victoria and the Com-Pac. The Victoria seems like it's built a little heartier, but the Com-Pac is also quite solid and has some benefits.. Reply Like.
There is a wealth of information available on the CPYOA Blog, including several complete rebuilds of C-16's from the keel up. Com-Pac Yacht Owners Association - Index. C-16's are great and great looking daysailers. They are not manufactured any more but Hutchins is still in business. https://www.com-pacyachts.com.