wind vane for small sailboat

Steering the dream

Hydrovane is your best crew member: an independent self-steering windvane and emergency rudder/steering system... ready to go!

Hydrovane will fit any cruising boat!

Off-center installations are the norm!

Doubles as Emergency Rudder/Steering!

True Stories

Golden Globe Update Day 113:

[GGR Leader Jean-Luc Van Den Heede sailing the Rustler 36 Matmut] was full of praise for his Hydrovane self-steering. “In a gale it has a big advantage because it is not steering the boat’s rudder, but has its own. This little rudder is far more efficient than the big rudder.”

– Jean Luc Van Den Heede on satellite phone call

“I am happy I did install the Hydrovane, especially that I saw on YouTube that at the same time 2 sailboats almost the same size as mine with the same problem. The crew had to abandon the the ships and left both boats in the middle of the Atlantic and lost everything … again thanks to the Hydrovane. It saved my boat.”

– Jacques Glaser, Amel Mango 52

“My wife and I have just completed a two month cruise with our new Hydrovane and it has performed beyond all expectations… If cruising I wouldn’t go to sea without one: strong, simple, reliable, an emergency helm and an extra crew member who never complains and doesn’t need a watch system.”

– Pete Goss, MBE, Frances 34

“So, I must tell you, and I mean this sincerely, the Hydrovane is simply a game changer for Quetzal. It’s just great and performs better than I expected… One other feature of the vane that I really appreciate is that it eases the load on the rudder and rudder bearings.”

– John Krestchmaer, Kaufman 47

“With just two of us on board, I wanted a system that was simple and effective to operate, and it has exceeded my most optimistic expectations by a considerable margin. It truly is our third crew member.”

– John Mennem, Jeanneau 45.2

“…it is still the most technically elegant solution i have ever seen for a wind vane… I was clawing off a lee shore on one side, and islands on another – winds were reported at 55 knots, and waves in the region were at least ‘boat length’ high and quite steep with the currents. This was an awful night and I was very afraid for myself, the boat and my equipment – I had new found respect, trust and comfort in the Hydrovane after that.”

– Steve De Maio, Contessa 26

In this recent Pacific crossing, the Hydrovane kept us on course (relative to the wind, of course) for several days at a time, requiring no tweaking or attention at all. If you can balance your boat and twist a dial, you can successfully operate a Hydrovane. Don’t leave home without one!

– Bill Ennis, Passport 40

“For the first time, we had to run downwind, under bare poles in gale force 8 conditions, with gusts to 50 knots – and don’t get me started on the sea conditions! Have you ever swallowed your tongue? Oh, and iVane, our wind-steering partner. What a gem! It steered 230 hard miles without even nut rations.”

– Brian Anderson, Hallberg Rassy 40

“The additional cash to purchase a windvane was almost too much… Just how good is this ‘Hydrovane’ anyway?”

After 29,000+ miles: “We’ve said to each many times that without doubt the most valuable piece of equipment on board was Casper – best purchase EVER. I will never own an offshore boat again that does not have this device.”

– Ryan Robertson, T 40

Swim Step / Sugar Scoop

External rudder, watt&sea bracket, other products.

Watt&Sea Hydrogenerator

Echo Tec Watermaker

Happy Halloween! This costume may have been for a different occasion but relevant nonetheless! 👻 “After seeing what Taurus [the Hydrovane] does for us [my friend] fell in love with him too. So much so that when the crew dressed up for the equator crossing, she dressed up as a Hydrovane!” - Norlin 37 owner 🙌🙌 ... See More See Less

• Comments: 2

2 Comments Comment on Facebook

Hi, can u reach me up via WhatsApp? My phone number is +56999728041 Txs

How times change just thought I’d send you this video that somebody sent me that bought a Hydrovane ❤️x

Well that was a fun night. 🎉 Thanks @cruisersawards Young Cruisers' Association for bringing together so many inspirational sailors and story tellers! Get out there and chase the wind ⛵️ #cruiserawards #youngcruisers #internationalcruiserawards #seapeople #annapolis #usboatshow #hydrovane ... See More See Less

• Comments: 0

0 Comments Comment on Facebook

#repost from @kirstenggr ⛵️ “Thinking back on the sailing, and missing it! Thanks to @ hydrovane for having serviced Minnehaha's hydrovane , which did about 45 000 nm before having any major overhaul - possibly more than any hydrovane has ever done before without a significant service. It saw Kirsten and Minnehaha all the way through the GGR and over the finish line! The unit is as good as new again, and it was smooth sailing all the way down to Madeira! Also, a big thanks to Eddie Arsenault, for having built such a solid mounting bracket for the hydrovane ! Without Eddie, Minnehaha would just not be the strong boat that she is today!” ... See More See Less

Wow, absolutely so proud my fathers invention and so glad everybody is so still going strong with this after so many years!! It is so lovely to see !❤️

Any photos of the mount Eddie made?

Thank you Kirsten Neuschäfer ! You are an inspiration. The Hydrovane loves sailing as much as you do 😀 Kudos to Eddie for the rock solid install! Thinking back on the sailing, and missing it! Thanks to Hydrovane International Marine for having serviced Minnehaha's hydrovane, which did about 45 000 nm before having any major overhaul - possibly more than any hydrovane has ever done before without a significant service. It saw Kirsten and Minnehaha all the way through the GGR and over the finish line! The unit is as good as new again, and it was smooth sailing all the way down to Madeira! Also, a big thanks to Eddie Arsenault, for having built such a solid mounting bracket for the hydrovane! Without Eddie, Minnehaha would just not be the strong boat that she is today! ... See More See Less

Hydrovane is my most trusted crewman.

Lee Colledge Shaun Colledge see what you have built 💪 👌

Once upon a time under spinnaker between Niue and Tonga 😍 ... See More See Less

This week we sailed from Lemvig Denmark to Vlieland Netherlands. 270nm and a tough journey for us and without the Hydrovane it really wouldn't have been possible for us. It gives us peace of mind while sailing and can no longer do without it. Boat is a Barbican 33.

Wow absolutely lovely,my Father would be absolutely so proud ❤️

Kevin Boothby Sailing

Build Your Own Self-Steering Windvane

For the short-handed sailor planning long ocean crossings, a self-steering windvane is not essential but darn close to it. For boats with stern-hung rudders, a self-steering windvane can be constructed with readily available materials and a modest level of skill.

It’s all about leverage. There will be an air paddle which will weathercock to the wind and provide enough torque to move the trim tab which we are going to mount on the trailing edge of the rudder. The trim tab will be a slender, high aspect ratio blade, and we will add some “balance” to it–a little bit of the blade will lead the shaft–all so as to lessen the torque required to move the trim tab when the water is flowing over it and thus increase the amount of leverage the air paddle has over it.

Let’s start with building the trim tab. The trim tab should be somewhere around 10 to 15 percent of the area of the rudder. We decide on the correct diameter of shaft for the blade. In my case this was a 5/8″ diameter stainless steel shaft. We then drill several (say four) holes to take through-bolts which will hold the wooden blade to the shaft. Below is the rough blade held to the shaft with 1/4-20 bolts. Notice the thinner piece on the leading edge, this will give it some balance.

We then permanently attach the blade with the bolts and 3M 5200 and begin fairing:

Following fairing and shaping we will then encase the entire blade in fiberglass roving and epoxy, this will add a great deal of strength and durability.

Now we have to mount it on the end of the rudder. But before we start drilling any holes, we need to work out some geometry. The trim tab must be mounted such that the air paddle will attach at the “no action point”; that is, where the trim tab shaft intersects the axis of rotation of the rudder. This is important because if the air paddle is not attached at this point, the turning of the rudder will wag the air paddle back and forth resulting in poor performance. Hopefully the diagram below will make this clear:

For the gudgeons on the rudder I used 1″ thick pieces of ash which I cut like opened jaws to slide onto the trailing edge of the rudder. They were finally attached with through-bolts and plenty of 3M 5200. For the bottom gudgeon I drilled a slightly oversized hole for the shaft to drop down through. On the inside of the hole I put a few laminates of epoxy and fiberglass roving to minimize friction and make it snug (note: I’ve since inserted a nylon bushing, which works better).

Similarly for the upper gudgeon EXCEPT that I opened the hole to the outboard end so that it formed a “U” and then closed it with a small U-shaped piece of plywood bolted on top and facing inboard (see pics below). Why? So that the trim tab can be removed for servicing.

And finally there is a third gudgeon at the rudder head, which is simply screwed onto a wooden cleat mounted there, again so that it can be easily removed.

Now we have come to the issue of attaching the air paddle. First of all, the air paddle needs to be balanced. This means the axis where the trim tab shaft runs through it is also the center of mass, or if the shaft was held horizontally and the air paddle free to rotate it would not choose to do so absent any wind. Since the plywood air paddle has weight, this will require a counterweight for which I used a regular shaft zinc clamped to a wooden dowel.

With our air paddle and counterweight constructed the last remaining item is the engaging mechanism. I opted for the simplest possible, simply boring a hole up a rectangular piece of timber for the shaft to pass through, and then sawing about halfway up from the bottom (see above photo). The air paddle and counterweight are bolted at the top, while at the bottom, on either side of the bored shaft hole, are 1/4-20 bolts with big handles on them. The opposing nuts are set in epoxy. Thus the air paddle can freely turn on the shaft until I tighten the bolts, when it clamps onto the shaft and the windvane is thus engaged.

And that’s it.   So far this vane has steered me over 30,000 miles.  I can get it to work in winds down in the 3-6 knot range, and then it has steered the boat while running before a gale under bare poles.   In order to work well in light airs the gudgeons must be greased from time to time.  This can easily be accomplished in the water while donning a mask and snorkle.   Just lift the trim tab up a few inches (it cannot actually pop out of the bottom gudgeon before the blade runs up against the upper gudgeon–with the little plywood cap on, of course), clean, grease, and set back down. 

Now one peccadillo I have found with this type of steering vane is the tendency to over-steer. It tends to shove the helm too fast and too far on either side, causing the boat to sail a slalom course. One cure for this is to attach shock cords to your tiller lashings which will greatly dampen the effect. The size and setup of the shock cords will vary from boat to boat. Here is my current setup shown below:

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Deck-level Wind Vanes

Not just for small boats, these sensors put the fun back in shifty winds.

There are two primary wind indicators on a sailboat. First, we watch the sails. Sailing to windward we watch the jib for luffing and for flow on telltales.

On the main we watch for backwinding near the luff and for good flow on the leach ribbons. Off the wind we are more likely to watch the masthead fly, leading to an epic crick in the neck. More importantly, when sailing in a real breeze we like to keep our eyes near to the water, watching for other boats, the dip of the bow when pressed hard, and scanning for approaching gusts. Theres no time for more than a glance at the masthead. Ribbons on the shrouds help, but often they are too strongly influenced by dodgers and the sails themselves.

Single sail boats, such as Lasers and Optimus dinghies often clamp wind indicators on the forward side of the mast (see Practical Sailor, January 2018, Top Notch Wind Indicators ). Without a jib to interfere with windflow or to luff at every wind shift (thus serving as a wind vane), they give a real-time estimate of wind direction. Thirty years ago Frye developed the habit of watching a Davis Telo-cat indicator that hung suspended under the forestay bridle of his beach catamaran. There it was safe from sheets and sails and directly in sight as he watched the lee bow for signs of submarining, one of the greatest concerns of a beach cat sailor on a fast reach.

As he moved on to larger catamarans, he always found a place to mount the indicator on one of the bows. On his Stiletto 27, the conventional masthead flies mounted at the end of the bow worked fine. That was because, unlike many monohulls or other catamarans, the bows on the Stilletto are far outboard and extend three feet forward of the forestay, where they are relatively undisturbed by air flow.

It was a fast boat and the spinnaker was jibed inside (the sheets passed between the tack and the forestay) like a jib. As is the case with most performance cats, the boat moved so fast off the wind that the apparent wind was rarely if ever dead astern. Instead, the fastest course to steer in terms of velocity made good (VMG) often involved tacking downwind.

When he moved up to a cruising catamaran (PDQ 32), he developed an unbreakable wind indicator ( PS January 2018 ) that could withstand a regular flogging from spinnaker sheets. With his current trimaran (Corsair F-24) he has settled on a pair of wind indicators, port and starboard, since the deck-sweeping genoa blocks the view of the indicator on the off tack. This dual arrangement also ensures at least one of the flies is working in relatively clean air, undisturbed by the jib. On many boats these flies would be vulnerable to sheets during tacking, but in the case of the Corsair, they are protected from reacher and spinnaker sheets by the up-haul used to raise and lower the hinged bowsprit. As the sheets cross the bow, the up-haul keeps them clear of the flies.

Are these sensitive sensors affected by air flow over the jib? Certainly, but they are still extremely useful for adjusting to gusts and shifts. The mounting arm holds them out in front of the jibs luff, and by mounting them low on the bow rail, they escape most of the disturbed air. Even when the jib is close hauled, the distance between the fly and the sail on Fryes boat is at least two feet. On many cruising boats they can be mounted well below the jibs luff, allowing even greater clearance.

Observations

The primary function of these bow vanes is not fine-tuning or fine steering adjustments. These are made based on sail-mounted telltales and the look of the sails themselves. Their true value is showing gross changes in wind direction. As you pass through a tack or jibe, what is the approximate wind angle?

A leeward wind shift has stalled the sails, but how big an adjustment is ideal? You’ve just born away in a strong gust to stall the sails, but how far aft has the apparent wind moved?

Sure, you could glance at the masthead, but when things are happening fast, thats not where your eyes should be. When bearing off you should be watching the bow. When attacking or jibing at speed, the movement of the headsail across the foredeck, the motion of the boom, and the position of other boats are more important than looking up.

Just as importantly, new crew and beginning sailors love them. When anchoring or hoisting sails they don’t need to split their attention; Just keep that vane pointed forward. When sailing they avoid disorientation by looking in too many directions. Remember teaching your kid to drive and watching in horror as the car began to turn every time they turned their head to check a blind spot?

Other than preventing them from fouling with ropes, the greatest challenge can be reading them. It’s easy to judge the angle of a masthead fly when looking up, and bow flies are easy to read on a dinghy or beach cat because they are close. But when they are 20 feet away and viewed from the same level, judging the exact angle is difficult. Indicator arms help.

Deck-level Windvane Options

Weve tried several different brands and models and found something of merit in each of them. Our main criteria was durability, but we did not discern a great difference. All of the vanes are vulnerable to a hard wack, so in the end, the best vane for you will be the one that fits your installation needs.

DIY unbreakable

The do-it-yourself yarn indicator that we featured in January 2018 is perfect for locations where a sheet or sail may find the indicator. It bends rather than breaks. On the other hand, the yarn is sometimes plastered down by rain or spray, sometimes tangles, and the direction can be hard to read.

Bottom line: This is the Best Choice if everything else breaks, but otherwise inferior.

Sailsteady Indicator

Designed by a Laser sailor, the springy Sailsteady is the only vane sensor weve seen that can withstand the abuse of slatting sails and dragging sheets.

We mounted it on the deck of our Javelin and found that a jib will hang up on the vane in light airs, but if theres a good breeze, the vane flops down, lets the line or jib pass, and springs back into action undamaged. It is most useful on small one-designs that have clear foredecks.

Bottom line: Made in the United Kingdom, the Sailsteady offers an option for small boat sailors concerned about deck-sweeping jibs. It comes with one extra vane.

Davis Black Max

Based on the very successful Telo-cat, this black and yellow indicator has proven its durability over may decades of rough use. The clamp is optimized for a 1 -inch mast, but adjusts down to 3/4-inch pulpit rails. We wish the strut was steel rather than carbon, allowing it to be bent for leveling.

Bottom line: Recommended.

Davis Telo-cat

We started with this one over 30 years ago. Specifically designed for beach catamarans, it attaches to the forestay turnbuckle, though the bracket can be adjusted to other configurations. This location is safe from sheets on a beach cat, even with a chute. We used these for decades, always getting multiple seasons from them.

Bottom line: Recommended for beach cats.

Schaefer Marine Little Hawk MK II

Easy to mount, extremely sensitive and highly visible, it looks a little fragile. That said, we havent been able to break one in two seasons. It remains the most sensitive after a year of blasting through waves, even more sensitive than our masthead fly.

Bottom line: Our personal favorite and Best Choice.

Schaefer Marine Cat Hawk

Like the Telo-cat, the mounting is designed for the forestay turnbuckle of a beach cat, but we screwed it to a home built rail mounting block and took it sailing. It was more responsive than the Black Max, steadier than the Little Hawk MK II, and easier to read accurately. We wish the tail was more conspicuous; we may spray the tail yellow. The indicator arms were a little too easy to move, but were also the easiest to read. We wish it came with the Little Hawk Mark II mounting, though you can always bend the wand and secure it somehow.

Bottom Line: Recommended.

While not as unbreakable as the DIY version, it is easy to read and the top-and-bottom stays make it quite damage resistant. Bottom line. We wish it were more responsive.

We’ve been sailing with bow wind indicators for 35 years and we’ve yet to figure out why they are not popular outside the world of beach cat and dinghy sailing. They don’t replace a masthead fly or tell tales, but we all use the same wind and what could be more valuable than knowing where the wind is coming from?

Mounting options is clearly a consideration when choosing a deck-level vane. Several of the models we tested have deck mounts as well as spar mount, and rail mounts.

• The the blue up-haul line protects the sensors on Drew Frye’s boat.
• The C-Vane easily attaches to 1-inch rail
• The mounting arm on the Schaefer Cat Hawk keeps in clean air.
• The simple Mini Hawk II is perfectly balanced. It’s large vane responds well in light winds.

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Wind Vane Self Steering: The Ultimate Guide

by Emma Sullivan | Jul 20, 2023 | Sailboat Gear and Equipment

Short answer: wind vane self steering

Wind vane self steering is a mechanical device used on sailboats to maintain a desired course without the need for continuous manual adjustment. It utilizes the force of the wind and a vertical axis to steer the boat by adjusting the position of the rudder.

How Wind Vane Self Steering Works: A Comprehensive Guide

Title: How Wind Vane Self-Steering Works: A Comprehensive Guide to Sailboat Autonomy

Introduction: Sailing is the epitome of freedom, embracing the unpredictable elements as we navigate vast oceans. However, when embarking on long journeys or overnight trips, the need for reliable self-steering systems arises. Enter wind vane self-steering! In this comprehensive guide, we will delve into this ingenious system, explaining its principles and mechanics while highlighting its benefits for seafaring enthusiasts. So hoist your sails and embark on a journey of knowledge as we unravel the inner workings of wind vane self-steering.

Chapter 1: The Basics of Wind Vane Self-Steering 1.1 Understanding Sailboats’ Balancing Act: – Explaining the importance of maintaining equilibrium between the sail and rudder configurations. – Highlighting challenges faced when manually helming during long passages.

1.2 Introduction to Wind Vanes: – Defining the wind vane as an autonomous steering mechanism driven by apparent wind direction. – Detailing their various components such as vanes, sensors, gears, and linkages.

Chapter 2: Principles Behind Wind Vanes 2.1 Apparent vs True Wind: – Unveiling the distinction between apparent and true wind direction. – Describing how wind vanes utilize apparent wind to adjust course.

2.2 Weight vs Force Systems: – Distinguishing weight-driven systems (servo pendulum) from force-driven ones (auxiliary rudder). – Discussing pros and cons of each system in different sailing conditions.

Chapter 3: Mechanics of Wind Vane Self-Steering 3.1 Servo Pendulum System: – Unveiling the engineering marvels behind servo pendulum systems. – Analyzing their interaction with changing winds and seas.

3.2 Auxiliary Rudder Systems: – Detailing the mechanism of auxiliary rudder systems, their hydrodynamics, and adjustability. – Discussing how they maintain sailboat course while minimizing yaw.

Chapter 4: Installation and Utilization Tips 4.1 Installing Wind Vanes on Different Sailboats: – Providing step-by-step instructions for mounting wind vanes. – Highlighting considerations for various boat designs and sizes.

4.2 Calibration and Fine-Tuning: – Elaborating on the importance of accurate calibration to ensure precise steering. – Offering pro tips to optimize performance under different sailing conditions.

Chapter 5: Advantages and Limitations 5.1 Benefits of Wind Vane Self-Steering: – Presenting the advantages of autonomy, reduced energy consumption, and enhanced safety during long-haul sailing trips.

5.2 Considerations in Complex Sailing Conditions: – Identifying limitations related to challenging weather patterns or narrow channels, necessitating manual intervention.

Conclusion – Navigating the Open Seas with Confidence: Wind vane self-steering systems revolutionize long-distance sailing by providing sailors with a reliable automated alternative to constant helming. Understanding the principles, mechanics, and installation tips outlined in this comprehensive guide will empower seafarers to navigate vast oceans with confidence, leaving them more time to revel in the beauty of their surroundings. Embrace the freedom that wind vane self-steering offers–the transformative companion for every true sailor!

Wind Vane Self Steering Explained: Step by Step Process

When it comes to sailing, one of the most essential tools for achieving steady and reliable course keeping is a wind vane self-steering system. This mechanism harnesses the power of the wind to effectively steer the vessel autonomously, ensuring sailors can enjoy a smoother and more hands-free sailing experience. In this blog post, we will delve into the step-by-step process of how wind vane self-steering works, unraveling its inner workings and highlighting its benefits.

Step 1: Understanding the Basics

Before we dive into the intricacies, let’s start with the fundamentals. A wind vane self-steering system consists of three main components: a wind vane, a linkage mechanism, and auxiliary steering gear. The wind vane acts as a sensory organ that detects changes in wind direction while transmitting these signals to the linkage mechanism. The linkage mechanism then translates those signals into appropriate movements, which are eventually transmitted to auxiliary steering gear responsible for adjusting sail trim or rudder angle.

Step 2: Wind Vane Sensitivity Adjustment

Once you’ve set up your wind vane self-steering system on board your yacht or sailboat, it’s crucial to fine-tune its sensitivity for optimal performance. By adjusting the weight distribution or adding counterweights to your wind vane, you can achieve precise responsiveness according to prevailing weather conditions. This careful calibration ensures that even subtle nuances in wind direction are accurately detected by the wind vane.

Step 3: Setting Course

Now that your system is finely tuned, it’s time to set your desired course manually using traditional methods such as compass bearings or GPS coordinates. Aligning your vessel towards this designated course provides initial guidance for your wind vane self-steerer.

Step 4: Autonomy Engaged

As soon as you activate your wind vane self-steering gear, you enable an autonomous sailor’s best friend. Once the wind vane starts detecting any deviations from your initial course, it sends signals to the linkage mechanism, instructing it to make corrections. This process ensures that your vessel automatically adjusts its heading to maintain the desired course against external factors such as wind shifts or gusts.

Step 5: Continuous Monitoring

While wind vane self-steering handles most course corrections independently, it does require regular monitoring to avoid any potential issues and make minor adjustments as needed. It is crucial to stay vigilant and keep an eye on how your self-steering system performs with changing wind conditions and other environmental factors.

Benefits of Wind Vane Self-Steering

Now that we’ve dived into the step-by-step process of wind vane self-steering, let’s explore its advantages:

1. Hands-free Sailing: With a properly calibrated and functioning wind vane self-steering system, sailors can free themselves from continuously holding the helm, affording a more relaxed sailing experience.

2. Increased Safety: Wind vane self-steering reduces fatigue in long ocean crossings by maintaining a steady course, minimizing human error risk at times when crew members might be physically exhausted.

3. Energy Efficiency: By utilizing the power of nature (the wind), a wind vane self-steerer requires no fuel consumption or electricity input for operation, making it an environmentally friendly and cost-effective solution for long-distance voyages.

In conclusion, the step-by-step process behind a wind vane self-steering system involves understanding the basics of its components, adjusting sensitivity levels, setting an initial course manually while enabling autonomy through continuous monitoring. This technology not only enhances safety but also allows sailors to enjoy hands-free sailing while embracing Mother Nature’s forces to keep their vessels on track efficiently. So why not embrace this clever innovation and sail away into effortless adventure?

Frequently Asked Questions about Wind Vane Self Steering

Frequently Asked Questions about Wind Vane Self Steering: Unlocking the Secrets to Effortless Sailing

If you’ve ever been on a sailing adventure or have spent any time around seasoned sailors, you’ve likely heard of wind vane self steering devices. These ingenious contraptions have sparked curiosity and interest among many sailing enthusiasts, but like any new concept, questions tend to arise. In this blog post, we will dive deep into the frequently asked questions surrounding wind vane self steering systems and shed light on their working principles. Get ready to unravel the science behind these mechanical marvels!

Q1: What exactly is a wind vane self-steering system?

A wind vane self-steering system is a mechanism designed to keep a sailing vessel on course without manual intervention from the helmsman. This device utilizes the power of the wind to maintain a steady heading even in challenging weather conditions. By harnessing wind pressure and utilizing specially shaped vanes, wind vane self-steering systems elegantly counterbalance forces acting on sails and rudders.

Q2: How does a wind vane self-steering system work?

The operation of a wind vane self-steering system revolves around one fundamental principle—using apparent wind angles and force to steer the boat. Typically mounted at the stern of a vessel, these systems consist of an arrow-shaped vane that reacts to changes in apparent wind direction. As the breeze shifts or fluctuates in intensity, subtle movements in the vane are transmitted via lines or linkage mechanisms to adjust the position of an auxiliary rudder at the boat’s stern.

When the boat begins deviating from its intended course due to shifting winds, turbulence, or waves, this auxiliary rudder automatically adjusts itself according to variations in apparent wind angles detected by the main vane. Consequently, as long as there is sufficient breeze available for propulsion, these systems effectively maintain precise navigation even during extended periods at sea. It’s like having an invisible helmsman tirelessly steering your vessel, allowing you to relax and enjoy the journey.

Q3: Are wind vane self-steering systems compatible with all types of boats?

Wind vane self-steering systems are highly versatile and can be installed on a wide range of sailboats. Whether you have a small, single-handed cruiser or a larger ocean-going yacht, there is likely a system that suits your vessel. The main considerations when choosing the right wind vane self-steering system for your boat include size, weight, balance, and how well it integrates with the existing rigging setup. Manufacturers provide detailed guidelines and support to ensure compatibility with various boat designs.

Q4: Can wind vane self-steering systems handle different weather conditions?

Absolutely! Wind vane self-steering systems are designed to thrive in diverse weather conditions and adapt to changing environments. Whether you’re facing calm seas or rough waters with strong winds, these remarkable devices remain stable and steadfast in their coursekeeping abilities. However, it is essential to learn about any limitations specific to the model you choose based on sailing experience and intended use.

Q5: Are wind vane self-steering systems difficult to install?

While installing a wind vane self-steering system may require some technical know-how, most reputable manufacturers provide comprehensive manuals and guidance materials tailored for DIY installations. However, if you prefer professional assistance or lack the confidence in setting it up yourself, seeking help from expert marine technicians is always an option worth considering.

In conclusion, wind vane self-steering systems offer sailors an unprecedented level of autonomy on their voyages by effortlessly maintaining course while they sit back and take in the panoramic beauty around them. Their ingenious working principles elegantly leverage wind power to navigate through uncharted waters. Embracing one of these marvels on your own sailing adventure might just be the key to unlocking new levels of sailing satisfaction. So, batten down the hatches, set your sails, and let the wind vane self-steering system be your faithful navigator on this extraordinary journey!

Mastering the Art of Wind Vane Self Steering: Tips and Techniques

For sailors navigating the vast blue oceans, wind vane self-steering systems are an invaluable tool. These impressive devices not only alleviate the stress of manual helm control but also empower sailors to sail solo or in small crews with ease. However, mastering the art of wind vane self-steering requires more than just installing the equipment – it demands practice, knowledge, and a cunning understanding of its intricacies. In this blog post, we will delve into the depths of wind vane self-steering, providing you with tips and techniques that will have you sailing like a seasoned pro.

Understanding the Basics:

To begin our journey towards mastering wind vane self-steering, let’s start by unraveling its fundamentals. A wind vane self-steering system essentially functions based on an aerodynamic principle: it utilizes changing winds to adjust your boat’s course automatically. The device consists of a wind vane mounted atop your vessel’s stern along with various lines and connections to your ship’s wheel or tiller.

1. Sail Trim is Key:

Properly adjusting your sails plays a crucial role in maximizing the efficiency of your wind vane self-steering system. Ideally, before engaging the device, ensure that your sails are appropriately trimmed for optimal performance based on existing weather conditions. Fine-tuning this aspect will allow for smoother operation and minimize any unnecessary strain on both boat and gear.

2. Get Acquainted with Your System:

Understanding how every component in your wind vane self-steering system works is vital for seamless operation. Familiarize yourself with all cables, lines, blocks, attaching points, and mechanical adjustments within your setup through careful study of instructions provided by manufacturers. Additionally, consider practicing installation and removal procedures before setting sail to save time during maintenance or repairs at sea.

3. Devise Efficient Linkages:

Connecting your wind vane to the ship’s wheel or tiller requires creating a linkage mechanism that transmits the vane’s signals accurately. Carefully select and adjust mechanical linkages, ensuring that they offer proper responsiveness and minimal play. Remember, any slack in these connections will decrease accuracy and compromise performance.

4. Experiment with Tension:

Fine-tuning the tension on your wind vane’s lines is essential for achieving optimal response. Experiment by adjusting the tension – both tightness and looseness – of these lines based on prevailing conditions such as wave heights, wind strength, course changes, or boat speeds. This flexibility allows you to adapt your wind vane self-steering system according to real-time situations and enhance its efficiency.

5. Observe Nature’s Cues:

Nature can be an exceptional teacher when it comes to utilizing wind vane self-steering systems effectively. Observing how wind shifts affect your vessel’s course during different weather patterns will help you develop a keen sense of understanding impending changes in wind direction. By balancing this observation with data from meteorological sources or barometers, you can anticipate shifts ahead of time, allowing for precise adjustments even before they happen.

6. Make Incremental Adjustments:

Once your wind vane self-steering system is activated, it is essential not to make abrupt adjustments unless absolutely necessary. Instead, opt for small incremental changes when altering course or sail trim. Gradual adaptations ensure smoother transitions without overwhelming the device with sudden demands.

7. Continuously Monitor Performance:

Constant vigilance is key while learning to master your wind vane self-steering system completely. Continuously monitor its performance by observing your boat’s behavior relative to sea conditions (weather helm, leeway). Appropriate awareness combined with timely tweaks ensures efficient operation throughout extended voyages.

8. Seek Expert Advice:

When seeking mastery over any subject matter, there is no substitute for expertise gained through experience and shared wisdom. Engage with sailing communities, forums, or seek advice from seasoned sailors who have honed their skills in wind vane self-steering. Their firsthand experiences and clever tricks will provide invaluable insights to propel your learning curve forward.

In conclusion, mastering the art of wind vane self-steering is a journey that requires practice, experimentation, and understanding. By grasping the basics, fine-tuning sail trim, learning your system inside-out, observing nature’s cues, and making incremental adjustments while monitoring performance attentively, you can unlock the true potential of this remarkable piece of sailing technology. So hoist your sails high and let the wind vane guide you towards a new realm of solo or small crew sailing prowess!

Choosing the Right Wind Vane Self Steering System for Your Boat

When it comes to sailing, there’s nothing quite like the feeling of gliding through the open waters, with the wind in your hair and the sun on your face. However, navigating a boat can be a challenging task, especially when you’re all alone out on the vast ocean. That’s where wind vane self steering systems come into play.

A wind vane self steering system is an invaluable piece of equipment that allows sailors to maintain course without having to constantly adjust their sails or helm. This automated system harnesses the power of the wind to steer the boat, freeing up valuable time and energy for sailors to focus on other important tasks.

But with so many different options available on the market, how do you choose the right wind vane self-steering system for your boat? Here are some key factors to consider:

1. Boat Size and Weight: The first thing you need to take into account is the size and weight of your boat. Wind vane self-steering systems come in various sizes designed to accommodate different vessels. It’s important to choose a system that is specifically built for boats within your size range to ensure optimal performance and stability.

2. Ease of Installation: As a sailor, you want a wind vane self-steering system that can be easily installed without requiring extensive modifications or additional support structures. Look for systems that come with clear installation instructions and minimal hardware requirements.

3. Weather Conditions: Sailors know that weather conditions can change rapidly at sea. Therefore, it’s essential to select a wind vane self-steering system that can handle a wide range of weather conditions – from light breezes to heavy winds and high seas. Look for systems that are durable and capable of maintaining control even in challenging weather scenarios.

4. Sensitivity Adjustment: Every boat handles differently based on its design and load distribution. To ensure precise control, choose a wind vane self-steering system that allows you to adjust its sensitivity to match your boat’s characteristics. This flexibility will enable you to fine-tune the system for optimal performance and responsiveness.

5. Reliability and Durability: When you’re out on the open water, you rely heavily on your equipment. Therefore, selecting a wind vane self-steering system from reputable manufacturers known for their reliability and durability is crucial. Look for systems made from high-quality materials that can withstand the harsh marine environment for years to come.

6. Cost: While cost should never be the sole determining factor, it’s still an important consideration when choosing a wind vane self-steering system for your boat. Evaluate different options and compare their features, performance, and price tags to find the best value for your money.

Now, armed with these essential considerations, you can embark on finding the perfect wind vane self-steering system that suits your boat and sailing needs. Remember to carefully research different products and consult with fellow sailors or experts if needed. With the right wind vane self-steering system onboard your boat, you’ll experience smoother sailing adventures like never before!

Troubleshooting Common Issues with Wind Vane Self Steering

Introduction:

Wind vane self-steering systems are a remarkable solution for sailors aiming to harness the power of the wind to navigate their vessels. By allowing the wind to guide the boat’s rudder, these systems reduce manual effort and provide a more reliable means of steering. However, like any piece of equipment, wind vane self-steering systems can sometimes encounter common issues that require troubleshooting. In this blog post, we will delve into some possible problems and provide professional, witty, and clever explanations on how to overcome them.

1. Lack of responsiveness: One frustrating issue that sailors may encounter with wind vane self-steering is a lack of responsiveness. If your system seems sluggish or fails to react promptly to changes in the wind direction, there are a few potential causes.

Explanation: Just like us humans after an indulgent Thanksgiving dinner, wind vanes can become lethargic too! The most common culprit for unresponsiveness is excessive friction within the system caused by wear or improper lubrication. To tackle this issue, start by giving your system a good inspection. Look for any signs of wear on bearings and joints while applying lubrication generously where needed (Think spa day for your wind vane). If this fails to resolve the problem, it might be worth checking if any foreign objects or debris have made their way into critical components – just imagine trying to navigate gingerly during peak pollen season!

2. Oscillations and instability: Unwanted oscillations or instability in your self-steering system can make sailing feel like riding a bucking bronco! This issue can be concerning and potentially dangerous if left unresolved.

Explanation: Imagine you are attempting to steer straight but your trusty wind vane has gained an affinity for dancing instead – quite embarrassing! The primary reason behind oscillations and instability is often an imbalance between sensitivity settings and sail trim (imagine mismatched dance partners). Adjusting both variables can help find the sweet spot. Additionally, thicker or heavier sails may contribute to excessive oscillations, so it might be time to reassess your sail wardrobe and consider adopting a lighter ensemble for smoother sailing (we all deserve a wardrobe makeover now and then!).

3. Misalignment and wandering: Has your wind vane suddenly decided to become an explorer, sailing in any direction other than the one you intended? Misalignment and wandering can occur due to various factors.

Explanation: Picture this – you want your wind vane pointing north, but instead, it decides it wants to discover hidden treasures in the opposite direction – quite the rebellious spirit! Misalignment is commonly caused by incorrect installation or loose connections between the wind vane and the boat’s rudder. Ensure that all parts are securely fastened with the precision of a complicated jigsaw puzzle (but without the frustration). When resolving misalignment issues, imagine you are showing your wind vane some tough love – tighten those nuts and bolts until they can’t even think about misbehaving!

Conclusion: While wind vane self-steering systems generally offer efficient steering solutions for sailors, encountering common issues is not uncommon. By understanding these challenges and implementing our witty troubleshooting advice, your wind vane will be back in shape in no time. Remember, a witty approach combined with professional expertise ensures smooth sailing both on water and through blog posts!

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Hebridean self-steering wind vane

“well worth investigating”

TOM CUNLIFFE The Complete Ocean Skipper

“I’m impressed… the vane performed well on all points of sail, including downwind… the servo pendulum system took control to the extent that it could sail a course with the sails badly set” DAVID PUGH Editor, Practical Boat Owner

Build your own servo-pendulum wind vane from a kit

The Hebridean wind vane is an innovative version of the tried and tested servo-pendulum self steering system for sailing boats steered by tiller or wheel. The Hebridean  has crossed Atlantic and Pacific oceans but is also quick and easy to mount for weekend coastal sailing or jaunts across the Channel, Minch or other strait/sea.

Stern freeboard The kit fits yachts with stern freeboards from 600-1000mm (stationary). It is designed specifically for DIY construction. The Hebridean can be tilted up out of the water or lifted off the stern and stored on the guard wires. Or partially dismantled for storage below.

Horizontal vane axle The Hebridean is the only serv0-pendulum vane with an actual horizontal vane axle. One of its unique design features allowing boosted performance, simplified construction and enhanced efficiency in all conditions. John Fleming’s analytical genius was responsible for the innovative geometry on which this landmark development in servo-pendulum windvane design depends.

Simplicity For confidence at sea or in remote locations, the simplicity of its components and assembly crucially allows the unit to be maintained with tools usually found onboard. Building the Hebridean yourself is a hands-on “course” providing you not only with a good understanding of its workings, but also substantial confidence in your ability to maintain it anywhere.

Wood When sourcing your own wood you need 4m of suitable hardwood at 145 x 20mm (EU standard). The longest plank is 1800mm to make the pendulum/paddle for 1000mm height transoms. Here is the wood cutting plan .

Affordable The Hebridean offers DIY sailors the opportunity to build an affordable wind vane in wood and stainless steel, with no welding, bearings or plastic cogs in the main H2 Kit. (there is one worm and wheel in the optional Remote Course Adjustment Kit which can be viewed in action in this youtube video ). All the metal components are prefabricated (drilling and some surface finishing required) ready for you to bolt to the wooden frame. The build requires basic wood-work skills and tools. And several days of absorbing and highly rewarding work.

Wheel steering too A “drum” kit for connecting the Hebridean to wheel steering is available.

Shipping For shipping costs, please contact me at the email address below with your full name, delivery address and phone number (required by carrier) for a quotation.

Kit prices Prices are listed on our Prices & Ordering page.

A section by section video from Hebridean builder, Ian French Thank you Ian!

• Part 1 Intro and frame: Intro & Frame
• Part 2 Turret and Vane : Turret & Vane
• Part 3 Fixtures and fittings : Fixtures & Fittings
• Part 4 Servo Rudder: Servo Rudder
• Part 5 Boat mounting: Boat Mounting
• Part 6 Testing the wind vane: Testing the Wind Vane
• Part 7 Wind vane in action
• Part 8 See the remote steering mechanism being assembled . The single weld required in Part 8 is completed by us before kit dispatch.
• Part 9 Preparing Remote Control Lines

See the Hebridean in action

• Videos shot in Scotland in varying sea and wind conditions Scotland Sea Trials
• Trials over 8 years of coastal and off-shore sailing by John Fleming, the designer of the Hebridean Wind Vane The Hebridean in action.
• Emmanuel sailing on Lake Geneva with Mont Blanc in the background Wind Vane in action on Lake Geneva
• Mounted on the 45 degree rudder stock of a Twister off the Scilly Isles https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FNlZHFFseB0
• Finnish archipelago Sailing https://photos.app.goo.gl/hYWTEcJhbdX3WGe39
• Wheel steering , all beautifully finished, on Al Hanson’s Pearson 31-2. Al’s video also features his removable Hebridean mounting solution attached to his folding transom boarding ladder.
• 1912 Falmouth Quay Punt Plymouth https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n6BIxYQUPiM
• Wind vane and dolphins off Fair Isle https://vimeo.com/136486631
• Courtesy Tom Fisher on “Angus” The Hebridean Wind Vane in action in strong winds 25/5/17 Bermuda to Azores https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Po-oXzVaIAk
• Kristian Møller Pedersen’s first day out with the Hebridean on trial after having completing the wind vane also see testimonials page   https://youtu.be/d2fjzbkh0dU
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yg7JgwH6Y58
• https://youtu.be/1090Z-dK2Ys
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EjAUfm-i6Yw
• Hebridean mounted on top of rudder stock on a canoe stern sailing off Canary Islands Hebridean in use in Canary Islands
• An afternoon sail in 10 to 15 knots on Port Phillip Bay watch-v=QBx0ywAjMCA&feature=youtu.be
• Video of the “drum” kit watch-v=4KLWJbYYOF0&feature=youtu.be

Frequently Asked Questions

John Fleming  1951 – 2023 teacher   yachtsman   inventor   thinker  

Here is a 10 minute video tribute to the Hebridean’s designer, John Fleming. It was aired at his life celebration in The Tip i at his family home, The Dell, Nethy Bridge, 19 April 2023. https://www.sgmarkphotography.com/Client-Area/John-Fleming  Use password sleepyeagle (the name of John’s Pioneer 10).

Notice from Ian Kirkwood

When John’s health got worse, he asked me again to take on the project. I am an enthusiastic fan of his highly ingenious version of the servo-pendulum self steering-system. I sailed in company with John on and off for a decade — using my own Hebridean (I was his first customer in 2013).

Our Hebrideans steered us around Scotland’s northwest coast and isles. We made three trips in company to the Faroe Islands. On the first of these I sailed happily solo. All thanks to the Hebridean. Dying winds foiled an attempt to reach Iceland: our boats lay calmly hove-to overnight a few miles off the Butt of Lewis. Plan B proved to be a fabulous voyage down the length of the Atlantic coast of the Outer Hebrides. A highlight was anchoring off Callanish in blazing sun.

I hope to continue John’s personal style of service. Please allow a generous lead time as I get used to stocking the components and preparing Hebridean kits while maintaining their high quality…and a reasonable kit price in times of rising costs.

 Email us: [email protected] | Phone: (510) 215 - 2010

Windvane Steering

Windvane self-steering options fall into two categories, servo pendulum and auxiliary rudder. Servo pendulum solutions utilize your boat’s own rudder and as the name suggests, auxiliary rudder products work with a separate, independent rudder system.

We believe servo-pendulum systems like the Monitor are usually your best option. They are more powerful, and perform better across a wider range of conditions on most boats and never require assistance from your autopilot.

You'll find a comprehensive review of the comparative merits of both systems at " Auxiliary Rudder vs. Servo-Pendulum " in our library.

At Scanmar, we manufacture the Monitor Windvane servo pendulum system, and the Saye’s Rig, which is often the best choice for very large boats with high freeboard.

Whatever your unique requirements, we have a self-steering solution for you.

The Monitor and TopHat 

Saye's rig.

Mister Vee offer the lightest* and most sensitive windvane self steering.

*10 KG/22 lbs

Navik replacement parts , since 2011

Buy mister vee self steering systems and navik replacement parts from our webshop.

Welcome to Mister Vee!

- The lightest* and most sensitive windvane self steering , since 2006.

- Navik replacement parts, since 2011

I love the overall design of the windvane and it has completely revolutionised my sailing as I have been doing long single handed passages over multiple days. It is simply, functional and steers the boat great. The use of lightweight materials is great as my boat is relatively small and quite weight sensitive when balancing the boat. It is also incredibly strong and I have no doubt that it will go on for years to come.  Tom

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Sailing With a Windvane

• By Alvah Simon
• Updated: December 9, 2019

Once found only in the ascetic realm of single-handed sailing, self-steering gear has become ubiquitous on cruising boats, even fully crewed ones. That’s because a self-steering unit serves as an additional hand that possesses relentless concentration at the helm; subsists on only amps or lubricants; and, if properly trained, does what’s asked of it without question or complaint.

Reliable remote control of the helm relieves the fatigue and monotony of following a compass course at night. It allows time for sail changes and adjustments; horizon sweeps for ships; attentive navigation; and that quick dip below to check the bilges and grab a hot drink. Without question, self-steering makes for a more relaxed, enjoyable and safe voyage.

But the debate over which kind of self-steering is best for a sailboat — electric or windvane — rages on. I may be an old-fashioned belt-and-suspenders kind of sailor, but I believe both systems have their different strengths and weaknesses, and therefore complement each other. In other words, any vessel that is configured in a way that can accommodate both methods should do so.

In this scenario, the more robust mechanical sailboat windvane would be employed in heavier weather, while the electric autopilot would be used in light airs and under power, where directional corrections are provided not by the wind, but by a fluxgate compass. It is important to understand that while the electric autopilot maintains a steady compass course, a windvane is set to maintain a desired angle off the apparent wind, and therefore will follow any wind shifts or changes in wind velocity. While this does keep the sails perpetually in trim, the course must be monitored closely when in confined waterways.

That said, if forced to choose, I would go with the mechanical windvane, hands down. Vanes don’t rely on the ship’s electrical power supply, which serves as the last link in a long chain of delicate electrical components and breakable mechanical parts. Across the range of types and brands, mechanical windvanes generate amazing power in rough conditions (when needed most), coupled with notable durability. Almost 30 years ago I purchased an already well-used Aries windvane. It has faithfully followed me from boat to boat, and around the world, with clear indications that it will outlast me. On the other hand, I have an overflowing box of spare parts cannibalized from the many electric tiller-pilots I have chewed through in that same period.

Types of Sailboat Windvanes

Introduced by the indomitable Blondie Hasler, founder of the OSTAR solo transatlantic race in 1960, the original sailboat windvane consisted of a direct coupling of a horizontally rotating (vertical axis) vane to a trim tab on the aft edge of a transom-hung rudder. Once the vane was fixed to the desired angle off the wind (using a round base plate with notches spaced at 5-degree intervals), any course change rotated the large vane like a weathercock. This in turn twisted the tab to one side of the main rudder, driving the rudder in the opposite direction, thus bringing the vessel back on course. The advantage to this system was its ease of construction and low cost, but it was best adapted to the waning style of transom-hung rudders. Also, a large vane was required to harness sufficient wind to power the trim tab. Therefore, especially in light airs, the tall, heavy vanes often reacted more to the yaw and roll of the vessel than to the wind, resulting in erratic meandering.

However, from this early and rudimentary concept, two sophisticated yet distinct types of vanes evolved: the servo-pendulum system (SPS) and the auxiliary rudder system (ARS). Both SPS and ARS systems employ a counterweighted horizontal- or vertical-axis wind vane to activate an appendage in the water, but the similarities end there. (To confuse the issue, there is now a hybrid system called the servo-driven auxiliary rudder, or SAR. But by first addressing the two basic concepts, a clearer understanding of this marriage of ideas will emerge.)

The SPS system — best represented by brands such as Aries , Cape Horn , Fleming, Monitor and Sailomat — uses the movement of the windvane to horizontally turn an independent servo-rudder (essentially a separate oar or paddle) that is deployed into the water. As the boat moves, the laminar flow of water presses against the positive lead on the servo-rudder, generating sufficient power to aggressively swing the servo-pendulum, or windvane, in one direction or the other.

While it is the power of the wind that directs the angle the servo-rudder presents to the passing water, it is boat speed through that water that exerts the considerable pounds of pull on the lines that run from the servo-rudder and through a series of turning blocks, ultimately connecting to the tiller (or, in the case of wheel steering, a drum in the center of the wheel). More simply, the servo-rudder does not turn the boat; it pulls on the tiller or rotates the wheel, which in turn moves the main rudder.

Perhaps the main drawback to this concept is the limited throw of the lines, as the distance of arc through which the pendulum swings is limited to the width of its supporting frame, an average of approximately 10 inches. This is no issue when connected to a tiller because one can fix the lines at the optimum point on the helm: high for more power, lower for a greater turning angle. But depending on the stop-to-stop ratio of a wheel steering system, the length of pull may not be sufficient to effectively control the vessel. This problem can be exacerbated by center-cockpit designs, as longer line lengths may stretch more, further limiting the effective length of pull.

The ARS system, best represented in the market by Hydrovane , employs an altogether separate appendage to steer the vessel. The boat’s main rudder is usually fixed amidship (or angled slightly to offset a lee or weather helm) and a second, auxiliary rudder, directed by a windvane, takes control of the steering. Thus, it is not only a self-steering device, but can also serve as an emergency rudder. Considering that all four of the Mayday calls I monitored on one of my Pacific crossings related to steering failure, this redundancy has considerable value. Because of the forces placed on this rudder it must be robust in construction, well fixed to the vessel, and of sufficient design and size to handily maneuver substantial tonnage.

Pros and Cons of Sailboat Windvanes

There is a heated online debate among some of the manufacturers and distributors of the respective systems, each dismissing the supposed advantages of the other’s design concept while touting their own. I have sailed with both servo-pendulum designs and auxiliary rudders and found both to be practical and reliable; the final decision, to me, comes down to the type of vessel to which they will be attached, the steering system onboard, the conditions of sailing most likely to be experienced and the budget. In my opinion, the auxiliary rudder is more sensitive in light air, which is the average condition found in many recreational sailing areas. I’ve found the servo-pendulum model to be rock steady in conditions so rough that the average helmsperson would be exhausted within an hour.

But there are advantages and disadvantages to each approach. For example, the auxiliary rudder windvane has no provisions for being lifted out of the water to clear flotsam and seaweed; it can affect the backing characteristics of a vessel; and there’s no dedicated, engineered, breakaway “weak spot” when colliding with something like a submerged log. (In such instances, most servo-pendulum rudders simply flip up out of the way, and are popped back in place with the pull of a line.) On the other hand, auxiliary rudders don’t require lines that obstruct the decks and cockpit, a significant advantage depending on the placement of the helm.

To the latter point, perhaps too much is made of the difficulty in fixing, releasing and adjusting the tension of the lines on an SPS windvane. I corrected this problem with a $5 double jam cleat. Instead of using the typical link in a chain to connect to the tiller, I run my lines through an eye bolt on the tiller and back to the jam cleat. I can ease or tighten the lines balancing friction with precision; introduce infinite increments of bias to help balance the boat; and even when under tremendous pressure, immediately release the lines in an emergency situation.

A subtle but potentially important advantage of the SPS windvane is its natural aversion to broaching. As a steep wave slams into the quarter, the vessel can violently swing sideways. However, this same sudden sideways force pushes the servo-rudder in a direction that immediately tries to turn the boat back down the face of the wave. But even that point could be countered with the claim that by fixing the large main rudder in place, as in an ARS, substantial lateral stability is added to the vessel, thus minimizing any penchant to broach.

When mounting either system, the latest sailboat design trends — open, aft-entry cockpits and drop-down transoms — present new challenges. Hydrovane makes the unequivocal claim that its ARS windvane can be mounted off-center without affecting performance. Offsetting the vane opens access to the sugar scoop and/or the boarding and swim ladders. But as drop-down transoms, in particular, become ever beamier, there is less flat and fixed space available for robust windvane mounting. Depending on the stiffness of the vessel, one would not want to push the vane too far outboard for fear of lifting the auxiliary rudder clear out of the water on a heavy heel.

All SPS manufacturers stress the importance of meticulous centering during initial installation. Adapting to these new transoms, Monitor has introduced the SwingGate system to its windvanes. This is essentially a pivoting pushpit, much like a garden gate, with the vane attached. When the gate is open the boarding platform or swim ladder can be accessed, and when the gate is closed the vane sits firmly fixed amidship.

While completely appropriate for trimarans, windvane steering is not well suited for catamaran designs due to the dual rudders and high bridge-deck clearance.

As to pricing, there is no denying that the basic ARS units cost from 25 to 40 percent more than SPS models. Acting as the boat’s main rudder demands that the auxiliary rudder and mechanisms be constructed from heavy, high-quality materials. But if one chooses the swing-gate option, the additional cost of the gate structure must also be factored in.

Summing Up Self-Steering

When choosing a self-steering system for your sailboat, closely assess the design features of your boat and the conditions you will most often encounter. If you intend to make any kind of extended passages, consider a high-quality mechanical self-steering unit, possibly coupled with a lighter electrical system. Often, the two can be combined, offering the precision of fluxgate steering with the power and toughness of mechanical systems (see “ A Hybrid Self-Steering Solution “).

After the initial expense of purchase and installation, there will be no piece of equipment on your vessel more prized than your mechanical self-steering. I don’t know of a single long-distance sailor who has given a name to the roller-furling system, nor of one who has not named the windvane. Be it SPS or ARS, called Esther or Otto, trust me, out there on the Big Blue you will have many long and meaningful conversations with it.

But like all relationships, this one requires practice and patience. First and foremost, do not ask the windvane to make up for sloppy sailing. Balance your boat, starting with waterline trim. Keep the weight out of the ends and ensure that the sails are appropriately sized, set and trimmed to the conditions. Excessive heel is not only slow, but places the boat on lines that the designer never intended, resulting in poor tracking. Ensure that the windvane is not blanketed by superstructure or fed turbulent air via barbecues, solar panels or davits. Experiment with different settings, such as blade angle and line tension, to understand and optimize performance in various conditions.

Models that employ a mix of metals should be disassembled, cleaned and lubricated regularly to minimize electrolysis. When reassembling, use a high-grade barrier cream on all fasteners.

All models benefit from an occasional bath of scalding-hot fresh water to dissolve any buildup of salt, minerals and solidified grease.

And finally, for those concerned that these protruding, industrial-looking structures may ruin the lines of an otherwise lovely vessel, remember: “The rougher it gets, the better they look.”

Windvane Manufacturers

Aries Vane Gear ariesvane.com and ariesvanegear.com Cape Horn Marine Products Fleming Marine Hydrovane International Sailomat USA Scanmar International Voyager Self Steering Inc. Windpilot

Two-time circumnavigator Alvah Simon is a CW contributing editor. This article first appeared in the July 2014 issue of Cruising World as “A Vane to Steer Her By.”

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Windvane steering: why it makes sense for coastal cruising

• Will Bruton
• October 15, 2018

No electricity needed, built for gale-force conditions and currently experiencing 
something of a renaissance amongst 
cruisers; windvane self-steering makes sense for coastal cruisers as much as 
offshore voyagers. Will Bruton took 
an in depth look at the options 
and how they work.

‘The distance run was 2,700 miles as the crow flies. During those 23 days I had not spent more than three hours at the helm. I just lashed the helm and let her go; whether the wind was abeam or dead aft, it was all the same: she always stayed on her course,’ wrote Joshua Slocum in 1895.

The ability of his long-keeled Spray to hold course without input from the helm was instrumental 
in making her the first yacht to circumnavigate single-handed.

Few modern boats bear these inherently balanced characteristics, so some form of autopilot is necessary to allow the skipper to rest.

Even for crewed passages, it can take an enormous strain off the crew without draining the battery. Some insurance companies even count windvane steering as an additional crew member, such is its contribution to life on board.

Unlike an electronic autopilot, self-steering needs no power

One solution experiencing something of a renaissance, is windvane self-steering.

Requiring no electricity, mechanical self-steering gear was first designed in an age when autopilots were the preserve of large ships and heavy motor cruisers. The principle is relatively simple and pure physics.

What mechanical self-steering cannot do is hold your yacht on a compass course. However, as anyone that’s experienced a sudden wind shift or squall whilst away from the helm knows, steering to a wind angle is preferable most of the time as you are far less likely to crash gybe, and the sails remain correctly set.

Self-steering gear achieves this by presenting a vane directly into the wind. When the wind acts on either side of this vane, it tips, transferring this action through the mechanism below to either a rudder or a servo pendulum which acts on the main rudder, altering the boat’s course.

The two main systems

Servo-pendulum

A derivative of the servo-trim tab principle invented by Blondie Hasler, servo-pendulum self steering gear uses the speed of the yacht going through the water to push against the servo-paddle, creating a substantial force, which is then transferred to the yacht’s own tiller or wheel by control lines.

The wind itself does not provide the power for the steering; rather it adjusts the angle of the paddle, relying on the hydro-mechanical energy of the boat going through the water to do the work of steering the boat.

Popular before the advent of the small craft electronic autopilot, it’s particularly well suited to yachts under 40ft in length, and can be swung out of the water when not in use.

There are now several derivatives, including some available as a self-build kit. Amongst the Golden Globe Race entrants, models included Aries, Monitor, Windpilot and Beaufort systems.

One disadvantage of the servo-pendulum gear is that it uses the yacht’s rudder, meaning it does not double up as an emergency rudder should the yacht’s steering be disabled, although some servo-pendulums can be adapted.

Direct drive systems

Wind vane steering linked to a secondary rudder is the most inherently simple of the mechanical self-steering systems, but relies on a much more powerful transmission of force between a large-surface-area wind vane and the system’s own independent rudder.

Direct drive systems feature a large fully independent auxiliary rudder

This has the advantage of ensuring 
a back up steering method is already on board but also requires a heavy-duty installation to bear the load and strain that will be exerted.

One of the most popular models is the Hydrovane, which is now available in several different sizes and shapes depending on 
the boat it is being installed on.

The size 
and shape of the fabric-covered windvane is directly proportional to the size of yacht, and has been installed successfully on yachts in excess of 50ft in length, including multihulls.

When the boat veers off course, the 
wind hits the vane on one side or the other, deflecting it away from the vertical.

This then acts on a gear that converts 
this sideways movement into rotation to directly steer a relatively large rudder suspended from the boat’s transom via 
the installation framework.

Setting up windvane steering

Balancing the boat.

‘Before doing anything, you have to get the boat sailing well. It demands you take the time to get your boat properly balanced, correctly reefed and with no weather helms; so it actually makes you a better sailor!’ explains Nick Nottingham, who recently fitted a Hydrovane to his Hallberg-Rassy 42, Spellbinder . Nick is about to use the system on an Atlantic circuit.

Self-steering relies on a well balanced boat. As the wind shifts, the mechanism corrects

Self-steering gear works by adjusting the yacht’s course in relation to the apparent wind. The first step to making this work as efficiently as possible is to balance the boat and reduce the amount of input required.

Sailing conventionally, the yacht should be easy on the helm and not overpowered.

Setting the system for the conditions

Whether servo-pendulum or direct drive, most self-steering systems have one or more methods of adjustment for the conditions. In light airs, the wind vane will be exposed as much as possible to the wind, to exert the maximum force on the system, whereas in heavier weather, the vane’s height can be lowered, reducing the force acting on the system.

Some systems, like the Hydrovane, Monitor and Beaufort have different sized vanes that can be swapped, while the Windpilot and Aries allow the vane to be raked aft, presenting a shorter level.

With the wind vane attached, you are ready to remove the locking pin and engage the steering mechanism

On some set ups, the power exerted on the steering system can also be adjusted at the point where the wind vane meets its pivot, just like changing sensitivity on an electronic autopilot. By controlling the rotation of the rudder or paddle created by the windvane, you control how aggressively the system corrects the boat’s course.

Changing the gearing at the point where the wind input creates the steering output achieve an increase or decrease of ratio.

Engaging the system

To engage the system, set the yacht on course and adjust the wind vane so that the wind is flowing over it with the least resistance, like a blade.

If you a using a system with its own rudder, centralise and lock the yacht’s main rudder, simultaneously engaging the self-steering mechanism.

Once engaged, monitor how the system adjusts and double check your sails are trimmed correctly.

As the vane moves it will adjust the steering accordingly.

In heavy weather, reduce the system’s power to ensure the least amount of strain.

Self-steering systems work efficiently in strong winds but most will steer comfortably in light airs as well.

Course adjustments

When the wind vane is vertical, you are on course. When the vane is deflected, the system is adjusting course.

Changing the direction you want to go in is simply a matter of altering the self-steering system’s vane angle relative to the wind.

On most systems this is achieved by a steering line that can be run into the safety of the cockpit, meaning you do not necessarily need to adjust the vane itself directly.

Make small adjustments until the yacht comes onto the desired course, trimming the sails appropriately.

A standalone system?

Whilst self-steering systems offer a much more resilient option than an electronic autopilot for heavy weather, when there is no sailing wind, they cease to be useful.

Here an electronic tillerpilot has been plugged directly into the Hydrovane auxiliary rudder

For this reason, most cruisers also have a conventional electronic autopilot on board to steer under engine.

In the case of systems incorporating a rudder, many also make it possible to easily engage a tiller pilot onto the system’s auxiliary rudder for use under engine.

Self-steering on the Golden Globe Race

If there’s one place that mechanical 
self-steering fandom bordered on the evangelical this year, it was at the start of 
the Golden Globe Race .

50 years previously, Robin Knox-Johnston’s world first single-handed circumnavigation was steered by his own self-steering gear system until it failed 
near Australia.

Restored to her former glory, 
Knox-Johnston’s Suhaili joined the parade; along with Indian competitor Abhilash Tommy’s replica yacht Thuriya , which sports a commercially made Windpilot servo-pendulum system.

Self-steering gear on Suhaili. Credit: Nic Compton/Alamy Stock Photo

With this year’s revival competition using 1960’s technology and electronic wizardry strictly prohibited, mechanical self-steering systems are effectively the only option for competitors. Each has chosen carefully.

Competitors in the race are using a variety of systems including Hydrovane, Aries, Monitor, Windpilot and Beaufort.

Due to the nature of the boats competing being long keeled, they are ideally suited to mechanical self-steering, naturally holding course better than a modern hull. However, should systems fail and prove unrepairable, it will be hard 
for them to remain competitive in the race.

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Mastering Wind Vane Steering: Lessons from 12 Years of Sailing with Hydrovane

You know you want it...

Mocka Jumbies and Rum...

“Oh come on Wayne, what’s wrong with you? Don’t steer so close to the wind or you’ll lose sail pressure!” Pitufa’s genoa starts flapping just at that moment, she loses speed, stalls, then bears off until the sails fill again and we continue our boisterous ride close-hauled in 25 knots of breeze. Only now the wind angle’s at 60 degrees instead of the 45 we have to sail to keep our course. “What the f***, Wayne! Where are you going now?”

Christian and I are sitting in the cockpit, legs braced against the opposite side of the cockpit seats, munching sandwiches while hurling abuse at our helmsman. Wayne ignores our rude comments and hectically leans over to correct the course again. Once we have finished our lunch, I take over the helm, only to find out that the boat’s indeed almost impossible to keep on course—she’s overpowered since the wind has picked up during our lunch. Christian quickly reefs the genoa and eases the main sheet. We engage the wind vane once again and now that the sail configuration is right, Pitufa continues like on rails, Wayne’s little sail only flicks left and right occasionally for slight corrections. We profusely apologize to our helmsman.

Understanding Wind Vane Steering

A hydrovane can steer the boat tirelessly 24/7 without needing breaks, cookies, or talking back when wrongly accused. But it can’t handle conditions a human helmsperson couldn’t manage. Many crews never seem to check and then complain about their wind steering not working properly. If the boat’s out of control because of too much sail pressure, or if there’s simply not enough wind to move the boat, the best wind vane can’t work wonders.

Types of Wind Vanes

There are basically three types of wind vanes: 

Trim Tab Steering : The oldest concept, where a small trim tab is attached directly to the main rudder. A wind vane moves the tab, which swings and pushes the main rudder into the opposite direction—a sound system, but it has the disadvantage that the main rudder needs adjustments and it only works for certain rudder designs.

Servo-Pendulum Vanes : Popular since the 1960s, these consist of a small vane and mini rudder. As the vane tips to one side or the other, the servo blade turns in the water, moving a system of lines affixed to the tiller or wheel of the boat. These gears work well for many cruisers but are prone to failure due to their complicated system of moving parts and potential chafe.

Auxiliary Rudder Vane Systems : Featuring a substantial wind vane that moves an auxiliary rudder, which steers the boat by itself while the main rudder is fixed. These systems are sturdy and reliable, ideal for long passages in remote areas. Additionally, the auxiliary rudder can act as an emergency rudder in case of a catastrophic steering failure offshore.

Why We Chose Hydrovane

We count ourselves lucky that our SY Pitufa came with an auxiliary rudder system. Our Hydrovane has sturdy mounts on the stern of the boat, the rudder and wind vane are stored below deck when not in use. During our very first passage on our newly acquired boat, we mounted them both and then tried to understand the mechanics behind it. We figured out that you have to adjust the wind vane at the same angle into the wind that you would like the boat to go, failed at first as we mistook the back edge for the front, and then stared in awe as the little thing actually started leaning back and forth to steer our big yacht all by itself. We named the Hydrovane Wayne Vaney, and Wayne has steered Pitufa on all longer passages over the past 12 years.

The Advantages and Minor Hiccups

Downwind is not Wayne’s favorite course, and he tends to add some miles to our passages by deviating a few degrees from the set course. In gusty conditions, he needs someone to stay in the cockpit and adjust the weather helm as the boat goes closer to the wind when the wind picks up, which can be tiring during night watches in rough conditions. And of course, a wind vane knows nothing about compass course and rhumb line, but simply follows the wind and will happily steer the boat in a circle when a squall clocks the wind around and the tired night watch doesn’t pay attention.

Miss Pfaff Rocks: The Unlikely Companion of Our Cruising Voyage on S&S 41 SY Pitufa

However, the advantages outweigh such minor hiccups: The simple mechanical system is reliable, has no need for electricity, and does not drain the batteries—a major problem for many boats on passage when the solar panels are often shaded by sails and the wind generator just spins helplessly on downwind courses. Additionally, it would keep on steering even if the batteries failed or if we lost our main rudder (touch wood!). We do have an electric autopilot as well, but we use it mainly when motoring or for short passages when we don’t set up the wind vane. Hydrovanes can be installed off-center or with extra-long wind vanes, so they work for most designs of monohulls and even catamarans.

Birgit and Christian have been watching Wayne Vaney steer their boat from the Med via the Atlantic and on to the Pacific. Check out their blog www.pitufa.at for more info or read their books: “Sailing Towards the Horizon,” “On Velvet Paws Towards the Horizon,” and “Cruising Know-How” available on Amazon.

Choosing the Right Boat for Your Sailing Adventure: Factors to Consider and Essential Equipment

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The ULTIMATE in Sailboat Self-Steering

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Model Windy (servo-pendulum, currently not available) feedback and nice blog:

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About ProVane

ProVane is designed for a larger boat with wheel (also suits for tiller) and it has emergency rudder ability. ProVane can be mounted off-center.

It’s rudder is 300x1100mm and also the windvane is large, 520x1000mm. ProVane is stand alone system, auxiliary rudder type, no steering lines in cocpit for the wheel.

Advantages over electric autopilots:

• It does not require electricity for its operation.
• Robust and simple construction. 
• Emergency rudder with tiller.
• Vessels rudder system does not wear on longer trips.

Dimensions PDF:

proVane dimensions

For better understanding user manual is downloadable by this link here (Google Drive):

Photos and videos

Take a closer look at our product

Make your sailing experience more enjoyable

Nb no new orders will take new orders in august. apologies.

Text goes here

Text goes here also

Selfsteering equipment idea was born while I was sailing around the world across three oceans on a 31-feet yacht.

On the last leg from South Africa to Cabo Verde, flight home being less than 4000 nm away, the old noname self steering gear broke down when a bigger breaker hit the yacht from the side.

This gave me a reason to start developing a new self steering system that would be stronger. The idea was to build the cheapest windvane on the market that would still keep its strength and quality. By now Windy windvane has successfully sailed across the Atlantic ocean many times.

S/Y Bellatrix

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Wind Vane Self Steering Gear

A wind vane self steering system is not an essential piece of equipment on a sail boat.

However, for anyone who sails alone or cruises short handed over long distances the benefits can be immeasurable.

Long tricks at the helm are exhausting, concentration wanes, essentials such as eating, trimming sails, navigating, sleeping etc are neglected.

Besides that, with a self-steering system set and the sails trimmed you will have time to relax and really enjoy the ride.

• About Self Steering.

The Basic Mechanics.

Types of vane., building your own vane..

• Your Comments

Self Steering Wind Vanes

The first time that a wind vane was used to cross an ocean it was on a motorboat, or so I'm told.

Today however, electronic auto pilots are much more reliable at holding a course and the power to drive them is not an issue as most engines are fitted with alternators which constantly produce electricity.

However, a wind vane gear is best solution for a sailing boat and not just because of the power issue.

Wind direction offshore tends to remain relatively constant over long periods, but there are always constant minor variations and gusts.

In order to keep the sails drawing at maximum efficiency, while maintaining a set autopilot course, they would have to be constantly trimmed.

Wind vanes on the other hand will slavishly follow any wind shifts, a good one will often do it better than most humans and do it for hour after hour without tiring.

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As well as not requiring any battery power, the windvane does not have any complex electronics which, will be vulnerable to damp and that are unlikely to be repairable without spare parts.

Many of the simpler vane gears can usually be repaired or rebuilt using non-specific parts and lashings.

And you can even build one by yourself.

Prior to the development of windvanes long distance sailors such as Joshua Slokum and Eric and Susan Hiscock relied on their boat’s natural ability to bold a course.

Others used systems of blocks and lines between the sails and the tiller.

One of the most common used setups for downwind sailing was using poled out twin headsails, with the sheets lead back to the tiller so that when the pull on one sail increased, the tug on the tiller would bring the boat back on course.

These methods required the sails to be set for balance rather than speed, which is fine for the cruising sailor.

However, the increased interest in long distance short handed racing prompted the development of vane gears.

In the first Singlehanded Transatlantic Race in 1960 all five entrants used vane gear.

The whole point of a wind vane steering gear is to provide feedback to the rudder so that the boat can remain at a set angle to the wind, 'in the groove'.

• This will not be a steady compass course but a constant point of sail.
• First you sail the boat on the desired compass heading.
• Then you trim and balance the sails for this course.
• Once the boat is trimmed the vane is set and the gear engaged to steer the boat on that point of sail.

So how does it work?

There are numerous variations to the mechanics of the linkages types of vane etc but they all work on the same basic principle.

The vane is set so that it is feathering when the boat is in her groove.

Any variation to this angle to the wind will cause the vane to rotate.

The linkages then transmit this rotation to the rudder in such a way as to bring the boat back on the desired heading.

With the boat back on its correct heading the vane and thus the rudder will return to its original position.

In theory the vane could be mounted anywhere where the wind across it is unobstructed.

However it has somehow to be connected to the rudder by some form of mechanical linkage, so the most logical position for it is on the transom.

And it is the linkage which performs the magic.

When the boat drifts off the wind the vane will rotate or flip with the wind, this movement then must be transmitted to the rudder as a turn in the opposite direction.

In the case of a simple vertically rotating vane, as the boat turns clockwise away from the wind direction the vane will rotate in and anti clockwise direction relative to the boat.

This rotation then needs to be transmitted to the rudder to turn it clockwise, relative to the boat, this will then turn the boat anti clockwise until she is back in the groove.

Once set up a vane gear can be very effective.

Setting up is however a matter of getting the balance correct.

Like your sails the wind vane needs to be set according to the apparent wind, the sails rudder and vane need to be in balance.

Because the vane is subject to the apparent wind it will be less effective on a run and in light airs.

In the very simplest of self steering vane gears as the vane pivots the movement is transmitted via lines directly to the tiller.

On others the vane acts directly on a secondary rudder.

However the force provided by a wind vane alone is rarely sufficient to make this system work with large boats.

To overcome this, variations such as the servo pendulum system, invented by "Blondie" Hasler have become widespread.

These systems harness the power derived from the motion of the boat through the water to help turn the rudder.

• Vertical Trim-tab
• Horizontal Trim-tab
• Vertical Servo-pendulum
• Horizontal Servo-pendulum

Vertical-Vane Trim Tab.

This is without doubt the easiest wind vane self-steering device to understand and build.

The vane is vertically pivoted and controls a trim tab on the rudder.

This can be either the main rudder or an auxiliary one.

I had this type of gear on my previous boat and it took me far and wide.

It isn't the most accurate of gears however with some judicious use of bungee to dampen any tendency to yaw it served me well.

Not only is it simple to build and operate but its very simplicity gives it an uncomplicated elegance.

When I built the new rudder for Mignonne I designed it so as to incorporate the vane gear.

Horizontal-Vane Trim.

This horizontal vane gear also operates on a trim tab.

However the vertical vane is set by turning it on its turret until the vane stands as nearly vertical as possible.

Because it tilts proportionally to strength as well as direction of the wind it is a more powerful version of the vertical-vane.

And there is less tendency for the boat to yaw.

Vertical- Vane Servo-pendulum.

On the vertical-vane servo-pendulum invented by Blondie Hasler, the vertical wind vane is connected to the servo blade.

As the pendulum, or servo blade, is turned by the vane it is forced aside by the its movement through the water.

It is this force which is then transferred to the tiller or wheel by means of the linkage.

The main advantages are that the stronger the wind, the faster the boat speed, the greater is the force is applied to the rudder.

Horizontal- Vane Servo-pendulum.

The servo-pendulum with a vertical wind vane has become the standard for most commercially produced wind vane systems.

While there are differences in their methods of transmission, the basic principle is the same.

The most popular among cruising sailors is the Monitor because of its rugged construction and because most parts can be fabricated and repaired relatively easily.

While these commercially produced systems are robust, perform silently and very near flawlessly on all points of sail, they are very expensive.

The easiest and least expensive type of boat to fit a wind vane to is one like Mignonne which has a transom-hung rudder and tiller.

This uses the vane to control a small trim tab on the trailing edge of the main rudder.

The trim-tap controls the main rudder in the same way a trim-tab works on an aeroplane wing.

As the tab turns in concert with the vane, the rudder is deflected in the opposite direction thus turning the boat.

If you are designing your own vane, whatever the style there are several details to keep in mind.

• The vane must be as sensitive as possible, which usually means large and light.
• Friction must be kept to a minimum, preferably with non corrosive bushing such as Teflon.
• The tab needs to be narrow and deep yet clear of the bottom of the rudder to avoid damage.  
• Whatever linkage you use should not be affected by movement of the main rudder.  

The vane I have used on Mignonne was inspired by an idea from one of Lin and Larry Pardey’s books.

Rather than use the usual plywood panel I made a wooden frame to support a sailcloth vane.

My vane like the rest of the boat is still very much a work in progress and the present vane really needs to be larger, I knocked it together from off cuts and leftover bit of sailcloth.

However, creating it to look like a small mizzen sail has the added advantage of fitting it into the overall look of the boat.

Also the light weight needs less of a counterbalance.

My main fear from using a trim-tab was how it would be affected when motoring astern.

The usual advice is to have a locking device to center the tab, but I know from experience how easy it is to forget something like that until it is too late.

So what I have done is attack the tab with enough clearance between it and the trailing edge of the rudder to allow it to rotate through 360 degrees.

This type of trim-tab also seems to work best where there is an angle between the axis of the rudder and tab pivots and if the linkage is sited where these cross.

Because the trim-tab turns in the same direction as the vane the linkage is direct.

The only provision needed is a method of allowing the vane to be set according to the wind direction.

I used a disc of a Tufnol like material which was relatively easy to shape yet is hard wearing, I have heard of someone who used a bicycle drive cog to good effect.

The latch is just a piece of metal hinged so that its own weight causes it to engage and it is controlled with a simple lanyard.

My greatest fear about using the wind vane is if I should fall overboard and have to watch my boat merrily sailing away form me.

OK, that can happen without self steering which is why I always (well nearly always) clip on when I'm sailing alone.

I have read suggestions about trailing a long line with a float on the end, umm, that’s ok if you are able to swim to it in time to catch it, I’ll stick to my harness and safety-line thanks.

And remember that while a wind vane might do a great job of helming your boat it won't keep a lookout, that’s still your responsibility .

However, I have found that being relieved of the need to helm allows me more time to look around.

And on the subject of looking around don’t forget that extra bit of gear sticking out of the transom when docking mooring and going astern.

Also remember that your vane can only react after the boat has moved off course, it isn’t able to anticipate the sea conditions or wind shifts.

If you do need to make an emergency course change the wind vane mechanism should be easy to disengage.

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Why You Need a Wind Vane for Your Sailboat

September 24, 2021 by Travis Turgeon 1 Comment

Many of today’s offshore cruising sailboats utilize a type of autopilot equipment called a windvane. A sailboat wind vane is a mechanical self-steering system that requires no electricity, fuel, or manpower to operate. It’s the perfect addition to bluewater cruisers and offshore sailboats. While a mechanical self-steering wind vane can’t hold you on a compass course, they’re more accurate than human steering over long distances. By reducing the overall mileage of a passage, you’re able to save time and money on your journey. Alternatively, a windvane is essential for short-handed or single-handed sailing. It gives the skipper a much-needed break from the helm when conditions allow.

How Does a Wind Vane Work on a Sailboat?

Mechanical wind vane systems are relatively simple in concept. Once mounted at the boat’s transom or somewhere along the stern, wind prompts the elevated vane to adjust the rudder or wheel steering system, putting your sailboat back on a wind-based course dictated by the captain. The idea is that you won’t have to make constant adjustments in variable winds. Automatic adjustments reduce boat heeling and allow your vessel to remain trim in the water. 

In other words, wind vanes use wind and water resistance to return a ship to course when wind chages direction.

Sailboat Windvane Gears Vs. Electronic Autopilot Systems

Two primary self-steering systems are standard for bluewater cruisers and offshore sailboats: wind vane steering gears and electronic autopilot systems. Both systems have advantages, and many sailors choose to install both systems on their boats. 

Electronic Autopilot Systems 

Electronic autopilot systems are the modern answer to self-steering. They’re easy to use, work without wind, and are an excellent option for near-shore cruising and short-term offshore sailing. Autopilots are also compatible with multi-hull vessels, unlike windvane systems. 

The downfalls to these systems can be daunting, though. Electronic systems are complex and have numerous parts: displays, wiring, plotters, motors – the list goes on. To run an electric autopilot system, you’ll also need a generator. Most even have two generators, using one as a backup for reliability. As you’d expect, they also come with a higher price tag. 

Self-Steering Wind Vane Systems

Windvane steering systems take a more traditional approach to self-steering. They rely on the wind to operate your boat on the desired course. Wind vane steering systems require no electricity, little maintenance, have few moving parts. They also come in several variations to fit your boat in the best way possible. Another massive benefit of a mechanical sailboat windvane is its robust build. This allows reliable and powerful performance in heavy weather conditions. 

There are also several downfalls to a windvane system. They do not work in the absence of wind or under power, can add weight and stress to the boat stern, can be initially expensive to purchase, and won’t work on multi-hull vessels. 

Types of Sailboat Wind Vane Systems

All wind vane systems direct a boat to a wind-based course, but they each do it differently. 

Servo-Pendulum Wind Vane 

Servo-pendulum windvane systems are the most common commercially available system, and they are a favorite among most sailors. The reliability for offshore sailing is a huge selling point. It re-affirms why these are the “classic” wind-driven autopilot systems. 

Main steering servo-pendulum systems have control lines running from the primary steering quadrant to a wheel or tiller. As the wind pushes the pendulum, it directs the boat’s steering by way of the primary rudder. Because of this, the system is solely dependent on the power of the wind. The stronger the wind blows, the more force the system provides to push the boat back on the desired course. 

Rudder steering servo-pendulum systems have the pendulum rudder connected to the primary boat rudder. It works almost the same as the “main steering system,” with a few minor differences. The wind pushes the pendulum rudder to the side, forcing water to pull the boat’s main rudder to change steering. The advantage of this system over the prior is that it involves fewer mechanical components, making it easier to check issues and fix any problems. The disadvantage is that it can be a bit trickier to set.

One of the biggest downfalls of either servo-pendulum system is that the pendulum rudder can not replace an auxiliary rudder. Unlike an auxiliary rudder, its one-dimensional operation makes it unable to run the system if the primary rudder fails. These systems can also create a cluttered cockpit due to the lines running from the steering quadrant. Lastly, servo-pendulum systems generally require more consistent maintenance and more common repairs. 

Auxiliary-Rudder Wind Vane

Unlike servo-pendulum steering systems, auxiliary-rudder wind vanes are entirely independent of all other aspects of the boat. Instead, the main rudder is locked, and the auxiliary rudder steers the vessel after setting a powerful windvane to the desired angle. The main rudder is often locked to the left of center or slightly at an angle to balance the helm. One of the most significant advantages to these systems is that if the primary boat rudder fails, the auxiliary rudder can act as a replacement to steer the boat. 

There are some important considerations to make when purchasing auxiliary-rudder wind vane steering gear. First, auxiliary-rudder windvanes put a significant amount of stress on the vane, making it vital that the model and components are well designed and made of quality materials. If you can source well-made parts, there is minimal risk while out at sea. There are very few moving parts and no critical lines attached to the system. Second, these systems are big, heavy, and bulky. Having such a massive piece of equipment at the stern of the boat isn’t always ideal in every scenario. Lastly, auxiliary rudders can be awkward to operate when the mizzen is in use on ketch-rigged vessels.

Trim-Tab Wind Vane

Trim-tab windvanes are less common than they used to be after the emergence of the steering technologies listed above. The system works by attaching a “tab” to the main rudder. The small surface of the trim tab makes it easy for the wind to move it from side to side, which then forces water over the primary rudder in the opposite direction to keep the boat on course. Those with the appropriate skills and know-how can even construct a trim-tab themselves, although we recommend that they do not rely entirely on a self-made system. 

The major drawback to trim-tabs is that the ability to fine-tune the system is somewhat limited in heavy conditions. 

How to Install a Sailboat Wind Vane System

Installing a wind vane on your boat is relatively easy, but it still takes a bit of planning. 

Initial Considerations

All windvane models require installation at the center of the boat’s transom or as close to the center as possible. Depending on which system you choose to run, you may need to account for the steering lines that operate the system. Steering lines are approximately a quarter of an inch in diameter and need a clear path from the wind vane to the boat wheel. You may redirect the lines with steering blocks, but be aware that each block adds friction and lessens the overall efficiency of the steering system. 

Balancing the Boat

Windvane gears adjust the course of a boat using the wind force at the surface. For this to happen efficiently, you’ll first need to ensure your boat is balanced and sailing as intended. Take your time to get the weight distributed evenly. You’ll also need to reef the sails appropriately so as not to be overpowered. 

Adjusting the System for the Conditions

Regardless of the system, nearly all sailboat wind vanes have one or more adjustment features so that you can optimize performance in various conditions. When wind conditions are relatively light, you should expose the vane as much as possible so that the system receives the most force as possible. In heavy winds, however, you can lower the windvane to reduce the impact on the system. In some cases, the wind vanes have sensitivity adjustments where the vane meets the pivot, so you may not need to adjust the height as weather conditions change. 

How to Engage a Sailboat Wind Vane System

Most wind vanes are relatively adaptable and can adjust to fit a variety of hull types. Some vanes are even customizable to bolt directly onto the boat. As with any other object you bolt to your hull, plan to through-bolt everything with the appropriate bedding and backplates for maximum security.

Operating a sailboat wind vane is far less complicated than you might expect. There are four standard steps to engaging a windvane:

• Deploy the Gear : To do this, attach the wind paddle and unfold the rudder to be placed in the water. Doing this should only take a few minutes at most. 
• Connect the Control Lines : Control lines run from the windvane to the boat wheel and may have steering blocks included in the setup. The system may require you to make a few knots or use some hardware, but again, it’s a relatively easy process once you’ve completed it once or twice. 
• Balance the Boat and Set a Course : With the wind vane deployed, balance your boat, set the course to the desired point of sail, and adjust the windvane to engage the steering. 
• Evaluate the Course and Adjust as Needed : Adjust the vane to steer more accurately after evaluating your approach. Course adjustments are made by rotating and trimming the paddle to match your course.

Perfectly balancing your boat is one of the easiest ways to make your self-steering wind vane more efficient in the water. A vessel with poor balance or trim will not just sail inefficiently, but it will put unneeded stress on the wind vane system.

Have more questions about sailboat windvane systems and how you can best implement them on your boat?  Reach out to the #Boatlife community on our forum  with questions or comments!

If you found this article helpful, please leave a comment below, share it on social media, and subscribe to our email list.

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June 12, 2022 at 5:44 pm

Thanks for the useful information. However, you didn’t mention anything about the usefulness of wind vanes in light or downwind sailing. You mentioned the issue of a mizzen and auxiliary rudder, how do I understand that (as we sail a ketch and thinking about installing a Hydrovane.

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Autopilot vs Windvane Self-Steering (Which Is Better)

Sailing by yourself can be a strenuous task. There are plenty of things that can go wrong and you will need to fix some of those immediately. Who is going to steer the boat when you need to fix something? Thankfully, we have multiple options these days when it comes to the boat steering itself.

This article will discuss Windvane self-steering and autopilot options for your sailboat. We will discuss how they work, the average cost, how to operate them, and which one we would recommend, so keep reading to find out more!

What Is A Self-Steering Windvane? (How it Works)

A Self-Steering Windvane is used on sailboats to maintain a chosen course of sail without constant human action on the wheel or tiller. The wind vane is locked in position after the boat has been put on course and the sails are trimmed correctly.

The self-steering windvane is a great invention that has helped sailors all over the world. It has allowed sailors to allow the boat to steer itself without any electronics needed. This is strictly a mechanical self-steering setup. There are two types of windvanes to be discussed, Servo-Pendulum and Auxillary Rudder.

Servo-Pendulum

The servo-pendulum setup involves using the boat’s current rudder. An enhancement if you will, of the servo-trim tab principle invented by Blondie Hasler, the servo-pendulum uses the speed of the boat going through the water to push against the servo-paddle, creating a substantial force, which is then transferred to the boat’s wheel by the control lines.

The servo paddle is not steering the boat exactly, it is controlling the boat’s wheel or tiller which then turns the main rudder. The main rudder was designed to steer the boat in all conditions and should be utilized whenever possible.

When it comes to selecting the best windvane there are a lot of options out there. One of the more popular options is the CapeHorn.

A great reason to select CapeHorn is because of its custom fittings. They can fit any sailboat out there and will custom design it to fit yours perfectly. Check out this video of a CapeHorn install by Sailing Uma! Subscribe to their channel as well, they make amazing videos.

This video showed a great install of the CapeHorn. They are quite handy and even accomplished this while floating out in the bay. They seem to make everything look easy. This is not the only option for windvanes though. Keep reading to find out about the Auxillary Rudder setup.

Auxillary Rudder

The auxiliary rudder is another very popular type of windvane system for sailboats. It does differ slightly from the servo-pendulum option in a few ways. The main difference between these two is that the auxiliary rudder setup actually steers the boat from the windvane, not like the servo that just turns the wheel. This option also has a secondary rudder or auxiliary rudder at the back of the boat attached to the windvane itself.

This is nice to have in case something were to happen to your main rudder rendering it inoperable. You could always use this as your backup. It even has an attachment so you can steer it by hand. One other great thing about this model is the off-center mounting option. Most people will have a swim ladder in the center of the transom, if that were the case, NO WORRIES, this can be mounted to the side of your transom. I think that is one of the coolest features of this setup. Check out the video below to see this Hydrovane in action.

As you can see from the video above this is a great windvane setup. It will depend on your actual situation and the boat you have to decide between a CapeHorn or a Hydrovane. Just remember to do your research. There are a lot more options out there. I just find these two to be the best.

Now that we have talked about a couple of different types of windvanes, the non-electric autopilots, let’s discuss an actual electric autopilot and see if they compare.

How Does Autopilot Work On A Sailboat?

Autopilots work with 4 components, a compass/sensor, an ACU (autopilot control unit), a control head, and a drive unit. When the control head is set to a specific heading, the drive unit will move the rudder according to the sensor, and keep the boat on the selected course.

There is a lot more detail and components to autopilot but the above description gets the point across. . There are other options that can steer the wheel or even a tiller, but the most common option is the one connected to the rudder.

Make sure to get the correct size autopilot for your specific sailboat

Yes, autopilots come in different sizes. Boats vary in size and so do autopilots. When you are out sailing and the sea starts to get rough, your autopilot motor will have to work harder to maintain the course, putting more strain on the motor. If the strain becomes too much it could fail and lose its course. You would then have to climb out of the cabin in the bad weather and take the helm. It is recommended to purchase an autopilot that is rated for 20% more than your boat’s total displacement. Remember 20% more, minimum.

This is why you need to check the manufactures rating and make sure it is sized for your vessel. I personally recommend getting one that’s a little bigger than needed to help compensate for those rough seas. If you are going to be lake sailing only, I wouldn’t worry so much about size, but for open oceans, then definitely make sure it will handle crazy waves and winds.

There are a couple of different types of autopilots, above deck and below deck. It’s pretty obvious what they mean but let me elaborate just a touch. Below deck autopilots will have the drive motor that moves the rudder accordingly. They are mounted in the hull of the boat near the steering mechanism. With this setup, you will need an autopilot controller mounted somewhere in the cockpit for setting your autopilot on the correct heading.

If you go with an above-deck type of autopilot it will be much easier to access and probably have the controller built into it. One example of this is the tiller autopilot. The tiller is mounted near the tiller and then attached to the tiller with the autopilot rod. The autopilot has the controller built in to set the course. There are also wheel autopilots that can be mounted above the deck as well.

Autopilots are great when they work. I have read a ton of articles and seen plenty of youtube videos about autopilots and it seems like they work half the time. You have to understand these are electrical devices with a motor and many different items can break. Most of the YouTubers that I follow have both a windvane and an autopilot for this very reason. I do know some people that haven’t had any problems with their autopilot so take everything I say with a grain of salt. I just prefer windvanes since they require no electricity, and are usually very easy to repair.

If you would like to watch a video about a marine autopilot and how it works check out the video below.

The video above gives a great description of how autopilot works and how to compare it to a human at the helm, which I thought was a great comparison.

If you have read this far you may be thinking which one should I get, a windvane or an autopilot. Keep reading to find out.

Is A Windvane Better Than An Autopilot? I Say Yes!

The windvane will keep your boat on the correct heading without electricity. There are no electric motors or wiring needed to operate a windvane. If the windvane were to fail, it would be much easier to diagnose the problem and fix it quickly at sea.

When it comes to deciding which option is better, I personally think windvanes are better. I like that they don’t require any electricity. This makes it great for those cloudy days at sea when you can’t charge your batteries.

They do great in rough seas and high winds. The autopilot will use more electricity when the seas are rough draining your batteries even more. If the winds get too much for the CapeHorn, they actually provide you with a stainless steel windvane to swap out. This windvane can handle those high winds with no problem.

Another thing to look at is the price!

You can expect to spend around $5000+ dollars for a winvane by CapeHorn or Hydrovane. This is definitely a lot of money to spend, but from what I have found, they can last a lifetime.

Autopilots tend to be a little cheaper. I found the Raymarine Evolution EV-200 Sailing Vessel Linear Autopilot Pack for $3699 dollars. This model is designed for a mid-size sailboat. The autopilot is definitely cheaper but if it breaks, how much will it cost to fix it?

I am not going to give you a huge list of the different types and prices because there are just too many factors that affect these two things. Just remember to do your research and shop around for the best price.

In Conclusion

This article discussed windvanes and autopilots and how they compare. Windvanes come in a couple of different options, servo-pendulum, and auxiliary rudder. The servo controls the wheel of the boat and the auxiliary controls the boat by becoming a second rudder. Both are good options, it will just depend on what you are looking for. The autopilots are usually a little cheaper but can break down more often. The price will depend on so many factors it is hard to say exactly. I recommend the windvane approach but that is my personal opinion. Do what is best for your situation always! Cheers!

Boatlifehq owner and author/editor of this article.

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