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We offer a wide range of oars for a variety of applications, from miniature oars for children's boats to 21' steering oars for whaleboats. You’ll find our oars in gondolas in a Las Vegas casino, on wooden sculls in Norway, and in plays on Broadway. We can make custom oars for virtually any application.

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How to Size Your Oars

To determine the correct length oar for your boat measure the distance between the port and starboard oar sockets. Then apply the Shaw and Tenney oar length formula to determine the oar length that will provide the correct 7:18 leverage ratio. This length will provide an oar where 7/25 the length is inboard of the oarlocks and 18/25 of the oar is outboard of the oarlocks. It is the ideal ratio to row almost all boats. Sized correctly, when rowing your hands will be 1 to 3 inches apart and you will be pulling directly towards your abdomen. If you are popping out of your oarlocks when rowing your oars are far too short. If you prefer an overlapping grip, add 6” to the calculated oar length. If you have more than one rowing station in your boat, measure both. Typically they will require two different length oars which is fine if you’re going to be rowing tandem and need two sets. Otherwise you’ll need to compromise the correct length to work properly in both stations. If you are rowing more than 75% in one station size the oar to that length. As always feel free to call us and were happy to help you select the correct oar length and blade style for your boat.

The Original Shaw & Tenney Oar Length Formula

To help our customers size their oars correctly, we’ve been using the same formula since 1858: Measure the distance between the center of the port and starboard oar sockets, which hold the oar locks on each gunnel. This is called the “span” between the oarlocks. Divide the span by 2, and then add 2 to this number. The result is called the “inboard loom length” of the oar. Multiply the loom length by 25, and then divide that number by 7. The result is the proper oar length in inches. Round up or down to the closest 6” increment.

How to Size Your Paddle

For traditional wooden paddles the ideal length for the Stern paddler is the bridge of your nose or 6 inches less than your height. For the bow paddler the paddle reaching the cleft of your chin or 9 inches less than your height is correct.

For our Racine paddle if you are over 5’6” tall select the 63-1/2” length and the shorter paddle if you are under5’-6”tall.

When paddling solo we typically recommend a bow length paddle. For Canadian style solo most paddlers prefer an even shorter paddle.

For paddling canoes when standing (yes our mother let us do this) a 69 inch or 72 inch paddle is usually about right.

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Toll Free: 800-240-4867 207-866-4867 20 Water Street, PO Box 213, Orono, Maine 04473

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Kevin Boothby Sailing

How to build an oar

Ever since I started posting videos on sailing without an engine my sculling oar has been getting a lot of attention.   One problem people run into when working out a sculling oar arrangement for their boat is that the size of the oar required for the job is far larger than anything you will typically find on the shelves of most chandleries.   My 31-foot cutter, for example, requires an oar of around 14 feet in length.   But with suitable lumber, a saw, wood chisel, and plane, an oar can be a fun project that requires only a modest amount of woodworking skills.   The oar I build in the photos is for the dinghy and is made of ash.  I would not recommend using ash for oars, but something lighter like spruce or Douglas fir.  My current sculling oar  (I’ve lost two of them overboard …) is made of Douglas fir.

We start off by cutting out the shape of the oar with blade, that is, the projection of the oar onto a board with the blade parallel to the board (see photo above). If you cannot find a board thick enough for the oar you wish to build, you can laminate the cut-outs together. My sculling oar is made from three 1″ Douglas fir boards glued together.

Next we cut out the grip. Everything is square now, we will round later.

Now let’s put the taper into the blade.   The best way to do this is to saw into the blade, transverse to the oar, down to the taper marks on each side of the blade. Make these cuts at about one inch intervals, then use your wood chisel to hack away the wastage.  Hopefully the photo below will make all of this clear:

Then we will use our carpenters plane to smooth the taper.   After that we will revisit the blade with our chisel and plane to taper the edges, so that the blade drops into the water cleanly. 

Now back to the grip.  We will round both the grip and the loom (the shaft, the round part of the oar) using the same method.  First  we turn the square into a octagon (stop sign).  This requires a bit of algebra to get exactly, but roughly you want to draw lines about one quarter of the thickness of the square shaft in from each corner of the square.   So for a three inch thick loom–now square, three inches on a side–draw your lines slightly more than 3/4″ from each corner so that you leave 1-7/16″  untouched when you chisel and plane the edges off.

As with the blade, we use our saw and chisel to cut away the wastage and turn the square into an octagon. Here’s the partially completed grip as an illustration:

Then we use our carpenters plane to turn the octagon into a sixteen-sided figure.  For small oars we can do this by eye–plane down until all the sides are approximately the same width.   Finally, to get the loom perfectly round, we glue (contact cement) some heavy sandpaper inside of a half pipe of PVC and sand …

Then we give everything a thorough sanding and our oars are ready for some varnish, or paint if you prefer:

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Carbon Fiber Sculling Oars - Two-Part

$649.00 $699.00

Notify me when this product is available:

Our break-apart carbon fiber sculling oars are the pinnacle of both performance and practicality.  There's no getting around it, sculling oars are ridiculously long - about 9.5 feet.  While this is ideal when in use, the oars become a headache when being stowed or transported.  They won't fit in most vehicles, they can be challenging to stow when not rowing, and for air-travel or shipping they can become a show-stopper.

Our impeccable precision-fit two part system resolves this elephant in the boat without compromising performance.  These lightweight carbon-fiber oars are strong, lightweight and feel just like normal sculling oars. 

While the price of our oars is about the same as equivalent one-piece carbon sculling oars,  shipping costs are significantly less.  Most retailers charge $150-$200 to ship sculling oars to customers in North America due to oversize shipping penalties.  Our shipping rates average about $60, reducing overall costs by about $100.

The oars come complete with sleeves and buttons, and are ready for use out the box. The adjustable handles allow a length range of 9' 5" - 9' 7". .  Currently, we just offer blades in the more popular hatchet style which is efficient and effective for both recreational and performance rowing.

We also sell carry bags custom designed to fit these oars.  They can be purchased here.

  Oars are guaranteed for one year from date of purchase.  They are sold as pairs. 

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Ro-the Japanese sculling oar

Though not a boat per se, the ro, or Japanese sculling oar, is worth discussing as the primary means of propulsion along with the kai, or paddle, for traditional Japanese boats. Some cruising sailors in the West have adopted this oar for use in moving boats up to thirty feet long. It is a very powerful tool and easy to use once you get used to it. If you are interested in learning more about how cruising sailors have adapted the Asian sculling oar, do a Google search on the Chinese variant called the yuloh. Very little has been published on the Japanese ro.

Like much of Japanese art and technology, the ro is almost certainly a product of ancient China. A number of scholars have placed the invention of the yuloh as the Yangtze basin of south-eastern China. The late China scholar Joseph Needham identified paintings showing the sculling oar as far back as the Han Dynasty (206 BC – 220 AD), and two Japanese scholars have argued that the sculling oar may have come to Japan during one of two great migrations of Chinese culture: the introduction of rice cultivation around 100 BC; or during the Nara Period (710 – 794), when Buddhism entered Japan. I have not travelled extensively enough in China to speak with authority on the yuloh, except to say that in general the yuloh seems shorter than its Japanese cousin and is used with a much quicker cadence. As with so much of Japanese culture that came from China and Korea, the Japanese have developed their sculling oar to the point where it is now significantly different from its forebears.

Ro are almost always made of four pieces: the blade (ro-shita), the socket (ireko), the ro-ude (loom), and the handle (ro-zuku). The handle and loom are joined at an angle with a floating tenon bound with either hemp line or wire. The version I built has a floating tenon and bolts together so it can be broken down into two pieces for convenience. The joint is also slightly offset so that the longitudinal centreline of the blade is slightly askew of the handle. The most common location for the ro is to the port side of the stern of the boat, and the socket drops onto a small post (rogui) made of either hard oak or iron. The asymmetry of the handle is to move it inboard slightly from the side location of the pivot. Finally, a rope (hayao) is fastened to the bottom of the boat and a loop is thrown over the handle. On larger boats rogui are mounted on athwart-ship beams that cross the boat at the sheer.

The two main types of ro are tomo-ro (stern mounted) and waki-ro (side mounted). Varieties of Japanese oak are usually used to make ro. In the Tokyo and Osaka region white oak is used for the handle, loom and socket while red oak is used for the blade. In northern Japan a wood called asuza is used for the blade. There is an advantage to using the heavier woods in the blade as the balance of the ro is critical, and a ro with a blade that sinks is advantageous.

The geometry of the ro is critical to its success, and a myriad of factors decide an individual ro’s design. The length of the boat, the height of the rogui off the water, the height of the oarsman, and the conditions of use all have to be taken into account. The heavy section of the loom, for instance, is to give the overall ro the proper balance. Traditionally in urban areas ro and kai were not made by boatbuilders. Ro-craftsmen developed their skills over years of experience and understood their customers’ needs. In the countryside this was not a separate craft and boatbuilders did make ro and kai. It is difficult to come up with standard dimensions for ro since every boatbuilder I have talked to has a different formula. Two Japanese researchers mention a length range of 1.5 – 2.1 meters for the loom and 4.2 – 5.5 meters for the blade. A boatbuilder on Lake Biwa told me that the ratio of distance from the end of the loom to the socket and from the socket to the blade tip should be 5.4 to 10.

The drawing shows the dimensions for a ro built by one of my teachers, Mr. Kazuyoshi Fujiwara, a fourth generation boatbuilder from the Sumida-ward of Tokyo. In the 1990s he heard that the last ro-craftsman of Tokyo was retiring and Fujiwara, recognizing that loss, apprenticed with him. The teacher at the time was in his eighties and the student was in his late sixties. Fujiwara’s ro was made for a replica boat that he and I built together in 2002 . It is a chokkibune, a type of Tokyo water taxi.

Using the ro is a revelation. I have sculled the chokkibune many miles and I can say that it takes far less energy to do so than had she been powered with anything like western oars. She is a heavily built boat, over thirty feet long, yet I have sculled her fully loaded with passengers with next to no physical strain. Once one gets comfortable with the ro, the action is a forward and back lean on the balls of one’s feet, using the large muscles of the thighs more than the arms and shoulders. The most basic mistake of the beginner is to feather the blade incorrectly and generate lift instead of thrust. The ro will immediately pop off its post and it is heavy enough that it will take some moments to set it right again. I saw a rental fleet in Japan that had a wire bale looped over the ro at the socket for just this eventuality.

But once under-way the benefits of the Japanese sculling oar become apparent. First, unlike oars that spend half their time in the air on the return stroke, the ro is applying almost constant thrust. The only moment when it isn’t is the fraction of a second at either end of the stroke. The angle of the handle means that the user does not have to physically twist the blade – since the handle is not on the centreline of the blade it automatically rotates. Furthermore, the socket is carefully rounded to aid the rotation. The rope leader is always kept taut, and it counteracts the amount of twisting force. The end of the handle when sculling describes an arc limited by the rope. At slow speeds the rower has to concentrate on lifting slightly to keep the rope taut, but once blade begins to bite, its thrust keeps the handle lifted. Perhaps the most important feature of the rope is that it resists the thrust being applied by the blade. With western oars the force of the thrust is borne directly by the rower with the arms and shoulders. With the ro the thrust of the blade acts to lift the handle, a force that is held in check by the rope. It’s a good thing, since the surface area of the ro is far larger than a pair of standard oars, and a lot of thrust is being created. The only time the ro is ever lifted from the water and feathered like a western sweep is when turning. Then the handle is pushed down, the rope falls slack, and the stern is essentially rowed around. In multi-ro boats the oarsmen do not necessarily have to keep the same cadence, however the side-to-side rocking of the rower when sculling at high speed can begin to rock the boat. Because the ro works astern a boat can be navigated through a waterway just a bit wider than its own hull. Because its long blade can reach four to five feet deep, the major disadvantage of the ro is that it cannot be used in shallow waters; but then again, that is why Japan's boatmen are so expert with their paddles.

Note: This post is an abbreviated version of my article " A Different Way to Ro " published by WoodenBoat Magazine, Issue 192, September/October, 2006.

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Single Oar Sculling

This isn’t the sort of sculling done using two, ridiculously long, oars to ‘row’ a long skimpy scull.

This is the sort done with one oar, waggling it backwards and forwards over the transom.

Ok, there is more to it than just waggling the paddle.

Yes, it does take a bit of practice but this is a skill well worth acquiring .

The Oar or Paddle.

The technique..

• Making a Paddle

This is a handy way to propel a dinghy through a crowded anchorage, not only can you face forward to see where they're going but steering is easy.

It is also an efficient way to move a sailboat when the wind has dropped or any boat if the engine is playing up.

I first became intrigued with this method of propulsion when I saw large, heavy, traditional, French fishing boat being sculled out of the anchorage on Les Îles des Glénan.

When you are sculling you are exerting the propulsive power slowly and continuously making it easier to move large loads relatively easily.

If this is something you are thinking of doing with a light dinghy over short distances then a normal oar can be used quite adequately, preferably one which is at least two thirds the length of your boat.

However, there are several designs of paddle shaped especially for this technique which are easier and less tiring to use.

Perhaps the best known is the Chinese Yuloh.

Specialist sculling oars usually have longer shafts and longer blades than a rowing oar.

And more important they are angled so that virtually no wrist rotation is required.

The yuloh is usually made from two or three straight pieces set at an angle so the blade curves down into the water at an angle of about twenty five degrees.

The long blade should be shaped so that it is flat on the bottom and curved on top.

When used with the flat side down the oar reverses pitch easily at the end of each stroke.

The Chinese also attach a rope from the handle end down to the deck.

While this helps keep the oar from digging too deep, it is mainly used to help twist the oar and assist the sideways pull.

A deep oarlock will make sculling much easier for the novice as it will help overcome the beginner’s tendency to allow the oar to jump up out of the rowlock, some even use a captive rowlock or a rope tie-down.

If you watch an expert, sculling looks easy.

However there is a knack to it which requires patience and practice to get it right.

There are two basic methods;

• where you start off with the oar blade vertical in the water
• and where you start with it flat.

Both methods use the same basic principle.

The oar blade is swept back and forth across the stern with the leading edge always angled downwards.

For the beginner and anyone using a standard oar the first method is the easiest to master (which is why I do it this way).

This vertical or slalom stroke also makes it easier to steer the boat and there is less tendency for the oar to jump out of the rowlock.

With this method the lower edge of the oar blade always leads.

So start with the blade vertical then use your wrists to turn the oar blade then push it so that bottom edge is leading.

At the end of the stroke reverse the twist so that the bottom edge is facing the opposite way then begin the reverse stroke.

To begin with just use a small amount of twist until you become more adept at reversing the pitch at the end of the stroke.

As you get more confident begin to give the blade more twist so you get more forward momentum and less zigzag.

With practice, you'll find that you can steer by varying the pitch on alternate strokes.

The second method with the blade starting in the horizontal position is the one most commonly used with a specialist oar.

This is a much more powerful and efficient stroke.

The stroke begins with the flat side of the blade facing down.

It is then twisted and the lower of the edges is always the leading edge as you push from side to side.

With either method, the pitch of the blade must be changed as the direction of thrust is altered otherwise the oar will come out of the water.

With the Chinese yuloh, one hand holds the oar end at head eight while the other hand uses the lanyard to move it from side to side.

The yuloh’s lanyard also puts the required twist on the oar so little or no wrist action is required to put the pitch on the blade.

Sculling is not as fast as rowing, however it is a skill worth learning.

It is a handy way to thread your way through a crowded harbor or narrow creek.

And it is an easier way to move a heavy boat in an emergency.

All it takes is a little bit of practice.

Building a Sculling Paddle

This is how I recently built a quick, easy and rough sculling paddle.

The bend in the shaft at roughly 1/3 of the distance from the handle end and at roughly about 20 degrees from the blade.

The bend was created while laminating the outer strips to the central shaped piece.

Below is how the paddle is used.

It can also be used very easily one handed by just holding the handle.

It is an easier way to move a heavy boat in an emergency.

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Sculling – a useful skill for any dinghy owner using just one oar over the stern

• February 26, 2021

Ben Meakins learns some top tricks with a boat oar from champion sculler Glyn Foulkes

Single oar sculling is the art of propelling a boat with an oar over the stern. It’s a useful way of moving a loaded dinghy that’s too laden for you to use both oars.

Another usage is when coming alongside in an inflatable dinghy. This works especially well with flat-bottomed, traditional Avon-style dinghies, which you can simply scull sideways using the normal rowlocks.

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In a sailing dinghy it means you can make headway even if the boom is too low or furled sails prevent rowing. It’s handy for making headway up a channel that’s too narrow for a pair of oars, between moored boats, or in busy harbours where standing up and looking over your shoulder allows you to see where you’re going. It’s a useful ‘get you home’ skill in case you break an oar. Try sculling and you’ll soon find that once mastered, it’s a traditional skill that is immensely satisfying.

Many people scull sitting down, either because their boat is not stable enough to stand, or because they’re more comfortable sitting. Some people find it easier to scull one-handed, and If you’re struggling to scull with both while sitting down, learn the movement with one and add the second hand once you’ve got the hang of it.

To alter course while underway, simply work the blade to one side, with a shorter lateral movement, until the bow is pointing the right way. To make bigger course alterations, you just need to ‘row’ the stern around until the bow is pointing the right way.

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Swift Racing - Sculling Oars

Swift Racing sculling oars are designed to deliver optimum performance while being easy to use and fully reliable – helping to make your boat go faster, for less.

High Performance Oars - An ultra-light oar with 95% carbon / 5% glass-fibre shaft, designed for elite scullers and those looking for the lightest specification. Price : £550/pair (incl VAT)

Club Performance Oars - A 70% carbon / 30% glass-fibre shaft, perfect for club-level competition and training. Price : £450/pair (incl VAT)

Recreational Oars - have shafts with 40% carbon/60% glass-fibre, and have about 20% more flex than Club Performance oars (they are around 70g heavier per oar). They are therefore ideal for young beginners and casual and recreational rowers. Price : £395/pair (incl VAT)

Para & Cadet Oars – Come in 3 different lengths (Long, Medium and Short) and two different grades – Club Performance (70% carbon shaft) and Recreational (40% carbon shaft), to provide options for individual rower needs and abilities. Prices as above.

Coastal Oars - The newest addition to the range, Swift Racing has developed our new Coastal oars (65% carbon shaft) to have the strength and durability needed to cope with coastal rowing’s mix of extreme conditions - turbulent winds, rough water, contact with debris, collisions with other boats and buoys, to name a few.  Swift Racing coastal oars have the toughness rowers need to ensure they have the edge, in all conditions. Price : £470/pair (incl VAT)

Each type of oar comes with a choice of handles and rubber grip sizes, giving you the best possible levels of grip, hand-fit and finger positioning.

Designed to Perform

The Swift Racing cleaver ‘SmoothA2’ blade is designed to give you the optimum combination of quick catches, reduced blade slippage, even load and smooth finishes. They also come with edge protectors, to prolong the life of your blades. Traditional Macon style blades are also available.

Swift Racing High Performance, Club Performance and Recreational sculling oars come in two adjustable length ranges (283-289cm and 286-292cm) to suit all levels and abilities. We can also supply shorter length oars for our Para and Cadet boats. All oar shafts are of medium stiffness for the best combination of flex and ease-of-use.

Swift Racing sculling oars are made in Swift Racing’s own factory, using their in-house expertise in the latest composite manufacturing techniques.

All oars come with a 2 year manufacturer’s warranty, to give you full peace of mind.

To discuss and order your ideal Swift Racing sculling oars please contact us HERE

or add a ‘Sculling Oars enquiry’ to your spares order HERE and we will contact you soon .

You can also email us at [email protected] or call us on 01582 872338 .

See supporting files below to download Specs & Prices and Guidance notes.

Supporting Files

4 Reasons to use Swift Racing Sculling Oars:

• Highly cost-effective option to other brands, whilst using the same manufacturing processes.
• 3 different grades, to provide options for competition, training/club level competition and recreational use.
• Choice of handles and rubber grip sizes, to give the best possible levels of grip, hand-fit and finger positioning.
• Choice of traditional macon or ‘Smooth A2’ designs, adjustable length ranges, different composite materials, for all rowing environments.

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Sculling Oars (yuloh)

• Thread starter Perry Solheim
• Start date Jul 4, 2016
• Tags sculling oar yuloh
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

Perry Solheim

Anyone build/install a sculling oar (yuloh, actually) on their full keel boat? Worth it? (I'm a woodworker, among my many hobbies and have a large well equipped shop, except for a lathe that I could use to build a wooden oar with...). I'm looking for tips on where to locate the oar lock (can't be close to center because of the tiller and rudder, but my IF is also very narrow so if I get too far to the starboard, I run the risk of banging the life line stanchions...) If you use one, how far do you tend to move the oar back and forth? How much space should I allow? Also, does the line that attaches to the deck need to be directly below the center of the oar, in line with the oar lock? Thanks for the help. I'm excited to be in the forum and actually have a boat to ask real questions about.  

I don't have your answers, Perry, but I'm also interested in a yuloh as back-up propulsion for my little catboat. I too have the woodworking skills and shop to easily build one. Looking forward to having someone with some practical experience chime in.  

Scott T-Bird

I think you'll find lots of experience and help with diesel mechanics but not so much with a sculling oar! But you never know ... give it some time!  

Scott T-Bird said: I think you'll find lots of experience and help with diesel mechanics but not so much with a sculling oar! But you never know ... give it some time! Click to expand

Ukeluthier said: P Problem is, diesel mechanics generally aren't aboard when the auxiliary quits on a windless Chesapeake day. I'm pretty good with a wrench myself and keep my auxiliary well-maintained, but I'm a self-reliant "belt-and-suspenders" man who thinks a low-tech back-up makes sense for a smallish boat. I keep a canoe paddle in one of the cockpit lockers, but that doesn't cut it for any significant distance. I suspect there are a few more of us Luddites out there. Click to expand

My experience using a single sculling oar dates back to about 1973-75 when I taught Rowing Merit Badge at a BSA camp in northern Wis. However that was on a 16 foot rowboat. You will want the oar lock mounted off center but on a rowboat that was primarily for balance, on our boat probably enough to clear the rudder and tiller is fine. Your range of motion is probably limited to an arm length plus a little more if you lean into it. Not sure what you mean by the line that attaches to the deck? Our sculling oar lock was a U shape and the oar had a leather wrap about 8 inches with a leather collar that helped keep the oar from slipping down the oar lock. I have also seen some type of loop on the oar that fit over a post on the stern rather than using an oar lock. I did a quick google search (images) and saw a variety of ways to hold the oar in place. One pix of a ~25 foot sailboat looked like the captain was using a small telephone pole. There is also some YouTube videos of folks facing aft and working the heck out of the oar with both hands. The proper position is feet planted firmly on the deck, facing the side with the forward foot pointing somewhat in the direction of travel. Your aft hand working the oar and the forward hand holding your favorite adult beverage. Don’t forget to send pictures of the oar and a video of you gliding effortlessly through an anchorage.  

brazenarticle

check out this article for some info on making and using a yuloh http://triloboats.blogspot.com/2012/04/windless-running-on-grits.html  

brazenarticle said: check out this article for some info on making and using a yuloh http://triloboats.blogspot.com/2012/04/windless-running-on-grits.html Click to expand

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The Basics of Sculling: What is it and How to Do It

What is sculling? This is a question that many people have asked, and it’s not surprising. So what are the basics of sculling? Sculling is a type of rowing that can be done in a variety of different ways, making it a versatile form of exercise. In this article, we will explore what sculling is and how to get into it. We’ll also take a look at the different variations of sculling and see which one might be right for you!

Table of Contents

-The Basics of Sculling: What is it?

Have you ever seen someone rowing a boat with two oars? That’s called sculling. Sculling is a method of propulsion in watercraft that uses oars to provide thrust in addition to the primary means of propulsion, such as sails or motors. Unlike rowing, which requires the use of both hands, sculling can be done with one hand.

This makes it ideal for smaller craft such as canoes and kayaks. Sculling is also used in racing, particularly in shell or skiff racing. In order to move forwards, the sculler must angle the blades of the oars so that they act like paddles. They then push against the water, propelling the craft forwards. Sculling is a great way to get around on the water and can be a lot of fun too!

– The different variations of sculling.

Sculling is a method of rowing where each rower has two oars, one in each hand. This gives the rower more control over the boat and allows for a more efficient stroke. Sculling can be done with either one or two people in the boat, and there are a variety of different sculling boats available. The most common type of sculling boat is the single scull, which is rowed by one person.

There are also double sculls, which are rowed by two people, and quad sculls, which are rowed by four people. In addition, there are sweep boats, which have only one oar per person. These boats are typically rowed by four or eight people. Sculling is a great way to get out on the water and enjoy some exercise. There are many different sculling boats available, so there is sure to be one that is perfect for you.

– How to get into sculling.

Sculling is a great way to get an intense workout while enjoying the peacefulness of being on the water. If you’re interested in getting into sculling, there are a few things you need to know. First, you’ll need to find a good spot to row. Look for a calm body of water with little to no current. You’ll also need to make sure you have the proper equipment.

A sculling boat is long and narrow, and it has two oars that are attached to the boat at both the bow and stern. You can usually find boats and oars for rent at your local rowing club or boathouse. Once you have your boat and oars, it’s time to start rowing! Sit in the middle of the boat with your feet tucked under the straps.

Grasp the oars with your hands, and then push off from the shore. As you start rowing, keep your back straight and your arms parallel to your body. Remember to breathe evenly as you row; inhale through your nose and exhale through your mouth. Sculling is a great way to get a full-body workout, so go ahead and give it a try!

– Should people start with sweep rowing before sculling?

People often ask me which is better, sweep rowing or sculling ? And my answer is always the same: it depends on what you’re looking for. If you want a more challenging workout, then sculling is the way to go. But if you’re just starting out, then sweep rowing is a great way to get your feet wet. So which should you start with? Here’s a quick rundown of the pros and cons of each.

Sweep rowing is a great way to get introduced to the sport of rowing. It’s relatively easy to learn and doesn’t require as much coordination as sculling. Plus, you can usually find a group to row with, which makes it more fun than going solo. However, sweep rowing can be quite repetitive and doesn’t provide the same full-body workout as sculling.

Sculling, on the other hand, is a great workout but can be difficult to master. It takes quite a bit of practice to learn how to coordinate your arms and legs, but once you get the hang of it, it’s an incredibly rewarding experience. Sculling also allows you to go at your own pace, so if you want a more relaxed experience, you can go slower. But if you’re looking for a challenge, then you can really pick up the pace.

25 Bodyweight Exercises to Help You Row Better: No Weights or Equipment Necessary!

Q: What is sculling?

A: Sculling is a method of rowing where each rower has two oars, one in each hand. This gives the rower more control over the boat and allows for a more efficient stroke.

Q: What type of boats can be used for sculling?

A: The most common type of sculling boat is the single scull, which is rowed by one person. There are also double sculls, which are rowed by two people, and quad sculls, which are rowed by four people. In addition, there are sweep boats, which have only one oar per person.

Q: Where is a good place to go sculling?

A: Look for a calm body of water with little to no current. You’ll also need to make sure you have the proper equipment. A sculling boat is long and narrow, and it has two oars that are attached to the boat at both the bow and stern.

Q: How do I start sculling?

A: First, you’ll need to find a good spot to row. Look for a calm body of water with little to no current. You’ll also need to make sure you have the proper equipment. A sculling boat is long and narrow, and it has two oars that are attached to the boat at both the bow and stern. You can usually find boats and oars for rent at your local rowing club or boathouse.

Once you have your boat and oars, it’s time to start rowing! Sit in the middle of the boat with your feet tucked under the straps. Grasp the oars with your hands, and then push off from the shore. As you start rowing, keep your back straight and your arms parallel to your body. Remember to breathe evenly as you row; inhale through your nose and exhale through your mouth. Sculling is a great way to get a full-body workout, so go ahead and give it a try!

Q: Is sculling better than sweep rowing?

A: It depends on what you’re looking for. If you want a more challenging workout, then sculling is the way to go. But if you’re just starting out, then sweep rowing is a great way to get your feet wet.

Q: What are the benefits of sculling?

A: Sculling is a great way to get a full-body workout. It’s also a great way to relax and clear your mind. And because it’s low-impact, it’s easy on your joints. So whether you’re looking for a challenging workout or just a way to relax, give sculling a try!

Q: Are there any downsides to sculling?

A: The only downside to sculling is that it can be difficult to learn. It takes quite a bit of practice to master the coordination between your arms and legs. But once you get the hang of it, it’s an incredibly rewarding experience. So if you’re up for a challenge, give sculling a try!

Q: How do I become a better sculler?

A: The best way to become a better sculler is to practice, practice, practice! There’s no substitute for time on the water. But there are also some things you can do on land to improve your technique. First, make sure you have the proper equipment. A sculling boat is long and narrow,

Q: What should I wear while sculling?

A: You’ll want to dress for the weather and water conditions. If it’s cold out, make sure to layer up. And if you’re going to be in the sun, make sure to put on sunscreen. You’ll also want to wear shoes that can get wet, such as sneakers or sandals. And finally, don’t forget your life jacket!

Q: What are the different types of sculling?

A: There are two main types of sculling: single sculling and double sculling. Single sculling is when you row by yourself, using two oars. Double sculling is when you row with a partner, each using one oar. There are also variations of double sculling, such as pairs and fours. So if you’re looking for a more challenging workout, try single or double sculling. And if you want to row with a group, try pairs or fours.

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Sculling Blade Geometry

And Related Dimensions

Over the past three decades, we have continued to develop and innovate Dreher Sculling Oars in an effort to maximize performance while simultaneously creating ideal blades shape for the various scullers globally. The following charts and diagrams provide a comparison of the blade areas of the eight of the eleven sculling blades that we manufacture:

Shows the Tip to Tail View of all but the Macon Blade Shapes (below):

Apex (Green)  and Apex-R (Brown) (below):

Alpha (Yellow) and Apex (Green) (below).

EH (Yellow), ER (Purple) and EA (Red) – Our  3 Elliptical Sculling Blade Shapes

Oars for different boat types

What changes are needed when doing big or small boats – length / inboard.

01:00 It’s all about gearing.

How long are your oars and what is the ratio for the outboard to the inboard? Small boats versus large boats. You have to carry your share of the total mass of the hull, riggers and oars. In a single scull you are carrying around 14-17kg. As the boat gets bigger, you carry less mass because it’s shared between more people. If you have a bigger boat – you can afford a heavier gearing on the oars.

Coaches try to give each athlete a consistent load to move the boat so you don’t have to work a lot harder in small boats compared to big boats. They adjust the rigging to make this broadly consistent.

03:00 So you should be able to rate a similar strokes per minute almost regardless of which boat type you are rowing in. Generally people rate higher in larger boats.

03:50 The span and spread affects the load.

Last week we reviewed the arc through which the oar tip moves each stroke. You want a wider span on a smaller boat (single = 160 cm) but in a quad it may be tighter 159 cm. Sweep spread is measured from the mid point of the hull out to the pin and these will be wider for smaller boats.

05:15 The oar length

You have to be strong enough to move the oar past the fulcrum. A 1k race is around 110 strokes and you need to be able to deliver each stroke to a similar power. For most clubs you will find that sculling oar lengths – sculls will be set at a length of 287 – 288 cm long Sweep 370 – 374 cm. These rigs are what you expect for younger rowers…. and oars get passed around the club and the lengths aren’t changed. Masters needs are different from younger athletes. We need shorter oars and sculls.

07:20 Jim Dreher invented the adjustable length oar – the story behind the invention.

10:00 Load on the body from the blade

Masters are a hugely divergent age and strength group of athletes. Increase the load for younger masters, tailwinds and for beginners. Decrease the load for older athletes or it’s a headwind. The more experienced are more dextrous and can cope with a higher load and can rate higher. You have to be able to put the oar in the water at the same speed the boat is moving past that part of water.

13:00 Rig your own boat to suit you

How long are your oars and span/spread? How old are you, how fit are you? Rigging for Masters webinar – Volker Nolte has a detailed chart for oar lengths and span/spread for masters. He considers most masters to row on much too heavy a gearing.

If you are older you probably want to decrease your load. When buying oars and sculls the spoon size and shaft weight / flexibility are different options you can choose, Cut an oar shaft in half – the internal diameter isn’t spherical – there are more layers of carbon on the front and back edge. This gives more or less rigidity / flex to the oar shaft. The tensional stiffness in the shaft comes from the thicker carbon which is on the front / back of the shaft facing the direction of travel when the oar is square in the water.

Buy the Rigging for Masters webinar and get Volker’s oar and scull charts.

Want easy live streams like this? Instant broadcasts to Facebook, YouTube, LinkedIn. Faster Masters uses StreamYard: https://streamyard.com/pal/d/5694205242376192

Faster Masters Rowing is a service provided though Creative Agency Secrets Limited.

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Sculling sailboats?

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So, I've got a question, and an anecdote. I've heard stories of sailboats, even over 35 feet, being sculled into ports, without motor. Most of these stories come from either Bermuda or China, consequently (and seem dated). In fact, in China there is a saying "a scull equals 3 oars", though this is beside the point... Has anyone ever seen this done? I'm sure it's not easy, but it seems invaluable, especially if you're minus the iron jib. So basically my question is whether this is a practical thing to do for a moderate/heavy displacement 27 foot boat, full keel with cutaway for-foot, attached rudder, or any boat for that matter. That and I basically want to see what everyone thinks of this idea, because if you can still maneuver the boat it seems pretty ideal. Thanks.  

Yes, it can be done. But you need a fairly long oar to do it with and a set of thole pins or some other notch for the oar on the transom of the boat.  

A dockmate does it quite often, first time I offered him my dinghy engine and found out he does it for recreation, as Dog said he uses a very long oar and a couple thole pins. I'm not sure what his boat was when first built but it is now a 27' junk rigged ketch with a very large unstayed wooden mainmast. I swear that my description of this boat is accurate.  

I've sculled both of my boats with the rudder at various times. It is very slow but it works.  

There's a group of guys out in Bellingham WA call the Oar Club. They sail boats of all types (from a J30 to a Atkin double ender) sans engine and use sweeps and sculling oars for propulsion when there is no wind. The guy who started the group, Jerome Fitzgerald, wrote a great book called "The Purpose of Sailing" in which he details just how efficiently one can handle a boat with no engine. If you're interested in this stuff it's definitely a worthy read. Personally, I'm currently looking into a sculling or for my engineless Triton.  

redstripesailor said: There's a group of guys out in Bellingham WA call the Oar Club. . Click to expand...

Here is a article on sculling. Check it out : Sculling One  

When I was a teenager, our family spent summer vacations in an old farm house on Gwynn's Island, VA, on the Chesapeake Bay. We were adopted by a local waterman by the name of Fossie Smith. He taught me a lot about life on the Bay. One of the things he did was to take the time to teach me how to scull an 18' crab skiff. It's an absolutely Zen way to propel a small boat. You have to do it to understand that.  

Absolutely. Sadly not many of us have 18' crab boats. A mate of ours has an absolutely lovely 'peapod'. I've never sculled her but she is a joy to row. To get the most out of sculling (or rowing for that matter) something better than the average yacht tender is required. Its most unfortunate that for most of us these days our tenders are rubbish when it comes to rowing.  

Here is a link for the Pardey discussion: The Self-Sufficient Sailor - Google Book Search  

Twice now the stupid air pump that runs on dead dinosaurs quit. Both times, I was in the harbor with no wind. Stands to reason, that's the only place I'd run the engine anyway. Day before yesterday, there was not a breath of wind near the harbor, and the bucket of demented parts quit with me 600 feet from the slip. So I sculled home. Sculling involves moving the tiller back and forth like a fish moves a fin. You move it rapidly in one direction, then slowly in the opposite – just like you would move your arms while swimming under water. You change course by moving the tiller only from the center to the opposite side in which you desire to turn. I enjoyed moving along slowly, propelling myself with the tiller. It works, but it's slow. It took me over an hour to get to the mouth of the harbor. I'm not complaining. I believe this technique is possible on a boat having a wheel instead of a tiller – but considering most boats with wheels require more than a full revolution of the wheel to move the rudder through a full side-to-side deflection, the technique would rapidly exhaust anyone using it. Chalk up another advantage of tillers over wheels. So once I was in the harbor channel, all these boats passed me. While passing, one skipper asked: "Are you aground?" I said, no, I'm just sculling back to my slip. He looked at me as if I had grown two heads. A sailboat came along (under power) and asked if I needed a tow. I said: "No. Do you?" I then laughed and thanked him, and explained that I was moving along fine by sculling. He said: "Doing what?" I repeated my explanation. He said: "Don't you know that's impossible without a special mount for a long oar?" And I said: "Gee, I wish you'd told me that before I'd sculled my boat this far." I got it all the way into the harbor and into my slip. The same gentleman was standing on the neighboring dock watching me round the corner, turn 90 degrees right, line up with the slip, and propel my boat ever-so-slowly into its berth. He was all bug-eyed at my violation of the laws of physics. Good thing there weren't any physics cops to catch me. I sail a Pearson Ariel. It's 25 feet 7 inches overall, and 3,500 pounds gross. For sculling, I believe that size doesn't matter, but patience does. Your actual mileage may vary.  

patrickbryant said: Twice now the stupid air pump that runs on dead dinosaurs quit. Both times, I was in the harbor with no wind. Stands to reason, that's the only place I'd run the engine anyway. Day before yesterday, there was not a breath of wind near the harbor, and the bucket of demented parts quit with me 600 feet from the slip. So I sculled home. Sculling involves moving the tiller back and forth like a fish moves a fin. You move it rapidly in one direction, then slowly in the opposite - just like you would move your arms while swimming under water. You change course by moving the tiller only from the center to the opposite side in which you desire to turn. I enjoyed moving along slowly, propelling myself with the tiller. It works, but it's slow. It took me over an hour to get to the mouth of the harbor. I'm not complaining. I believe this technique is possible on a boat having a wheel instead of a tiller - but considering most boats with wheels require more than a full revolution of the wheel to move the rudder through a full side-to-side deflection, the technique would rapidly exhaust anyone using it. Chalk up another advantage of tillers over wheels. So once I was in the harbor channel, all these boats passed me. While passing, one skipper asked: "Are you aground?" I said, no, I'm just sculling back to my slip. He looked at me as if I had grown two heads. A sailboat came along (under power) and asked if I needed a tow. I said: "No. Do you?" I then laughed and thanked him, and explained that I was moving along fine by sculling. He said: "Doing what?" I repeated my explanation. He said: "Don't you know that's impossible without a special mount for a long oar?" And I said: "Gee, I wish you'd told me that before I'd sculled my boat this far." I got it all the way into the harbor and into my slip. The same gentleman was standing on the neighboring dock watching me round the corner, turn 90 degrees right, line up with the slip, and propel my boat ever-so-slowly into its berth. He was all bug-eyed at my violation of the laws of physics. Good thing there weren't any physics cops to catch me. I sail a Pearson Ariel. It's 25 feet 7 inches overall, and 3,500 pounds gross. For sculling, I believe that size doesn't matter, but patience does. Your actual mileage may vary. Click to expand...

Atom Voyages | Improvement Projects, Page 3 It's called a Yuloh in China.  

Of course, sculling with the rudder tends to be possible only in fairly benign conditions....any sort of contrary current or wind and you're toast.  

I've never sculled. I did row my previous two boats (20', one ton; 26', four tons) when necessary. Usually I just waited for a breeze. Rowing them wasn't hard, there was no point in trying to go fast, a steady stroke yielded half a knot. I made a long oar from a piece of spruce staging plank.  

I used to row my Folkboat, which did not have an engine. I had a single long sweep which had a loop of line that I tossed over a winch and rowed facing forward. Once up to speed it was pretty easy to keep moving. I would tie the helm slightly over and then varied the speed of my stroke to hold a course. I have tried sculling bigger boats on a number of occasions and its not that efficient without a properly shaped oar, and I found it hard on the wrists having to rotate the blade under load. I would not suggest sculling a boat with its rudder as a regular means of transport since it wears out the pindles and gudgeons or the rudder post prematurely. Jeff  

Another way to do it is to fix the rudder amidships and rool the boat from side to side. It works on racing dinghys  

I'll have to try that, but... only first in a very private setting. Given the amount of attention I got from other boaters by just moving the tiller back and forth to move along, I suspect that their seeing me running repeatedly back and forth across the deck from one beam to the other might get me locked up for psychiatric observation. I've found sculling with the rudder to also be a good way to rescue my boat when she's caught in irons - while keeping the sailing pure of noisy smelly beasts with propellers.  

I've sculled my 21 foot trailer sailer boat. On one trip I found I'd left the rudder home and used the scull oar as a repalcement. It worked. For my 29 ft Cal, I have 10 ft oars and can row it. They need to be at least that log to reach the water. I think the Pardeys just rowed with a single oar with thier first boat. worked fine and was a simple arrangement  

While it is a very neat way to move a boat about for short distances, it is incredibly tiring to move a big boat at any speed or for any real distance. As Jeff mentioned, it can be hard on the wrists. The real advantage to me is that you can see where you are going and you can fit in between docks barely wider than your boat. Personally, I prefer to row than to scull a boat. I can make the boat go much faster and it is much more pleasant. I leave sculling for the tight quarters maneuvering (be careful, some sculling setups make it hard to stop or go backwards while it is easy with others, it all depends on how much you can pivot the oar).  

Klem (or other rowers of smallish sailboats..) How do you set up the boat for rowing? I can't quite work out what you do for oar locks or where one would sit. Can you explain? I used to scull home all the time in my Beetle Cat... it had one of those huge barn door rudders. Chris  

How you set it up is really a function of the boat. The critical dimensions in it are the seat height, oarlock height, distance between oarlocks and oar length. Things like the fore and aft placement of the seat and oarlocks do matter but are not as important. Usually the first thing to figure out is where you can put oarlocks. If you have a cockpit coaming, it is usually an easy place to bolt on a set. I have also seen people who make a standoff block that bolts through the deck and has an oarlock on it. For boats that don't plan to row a lot, you can wrap a line around the oar and the jib winches (assuming you have them) and it works okay. Next, you need to figure out where you can sit. Usually a removable seat across the cockpit seats or on top of the centerboard trunk works best. If it isn't fastened down, this will allow you to play around with fore and aft position. The height is important and easiest to figure out sitting in the boat with the oars in the oarlocks. You want the oar handle to be somewhere around shoulder height with the blade just fully buried. If you always row in calm water, you can have it a bit lower but if you row in rough water, you need to keep it high so that the blades don't hit the waves on the recovery. I hope that this helps.  

Exactly.  

I have an engineless 8 ton 29ft gaffrigged cutter. I converted my 5 meter long sweep to a 6 meter long yuloh after learning it was better for my boat. It works like a charm. Anyone want to know the process, write me. It was a long research, but well worth it. Sweeps are good for lighter boats, and yulohs are better for heavier boats. Jeff H is right about it being hard on your wrists, after a few sessions, Popeye comes to mind. A well built and rigged yuloh is easy enough for a 15 year old to use. Engineless sailing requires a different mindset. The rules of nature make you take on a whole new perspective towards it.  

Here is a page on how to make the oar locks and rowing a bigger full keel boat A Pearson Ariel Page And here's one on making a yuloh for any boat $10 Yuloh - Cheap introduction to "scientific sculling."  

The 10usd page has pretty good info. I found that one when I made my yuloh. If you follow his advice, I'd add a sacrificial block with drilled out holes lashed to the pivot spot on the oar. If you don't, the hole in the oar will wear out, then you have to build a new oar. The sacrificial block is easier to replace. Cheers  

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