building a lightning sailboat

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Lightning Sailboat 19' build

Discussion in ' Boat Design ' started by FirstLight , Aug 21, 2012 .

FirstLight Junior Member

Have always loves this classic design from the board of Sparkman and Stevens. There's a small fleet here in our area. For a winter project I want to build one. There are several sets of offsets with the fast design that I've brought into Rhino. I'm trying to determine what the strongest\lightest build technique would be (no foam) for a one off lightning. Cold molding would seem the answer however the hard chine doesn't seem to fit the process as well. Then there is the frame method the Gougeon boys outline in their big blue bible. Any thoughts or ideas?? Cheers..  

gonzo Senior Member

Balsa planks core composite should be the lightest and stiffest. That design was made for carvel construction and has very easy lines.  

DCockey Senior Member

FirstLight said: ↑ Have always loves this classic design from the board of Sparkman and Stevens. There's a small fleet here in our area. For a winter project I want to build one. There are several sets of offsets with the fast design that I've brought into Rhino. I'm trying to determine what the strongest\lightest build technique would be (no foam) for a one off lightning. Cold molding would seem the answer however the hard chine doesn't seem to fit the process as well. Then there is the frame method the Gougeon boys outline in their big blue bible. Any thoughts or ideas?? Cheers.. Click to expand...

Petros Senior Member

I would recommend sticking with the rules, if you do not, not only will you not be allowed to sail in the races, it will not have much resale value when you are done with it. It appears there is no advantage to a lightweight build since rules require a 700 lb hull anyway. You might consider finding a used one and refurbish it, it will cost less and get you on the water faster.  

tunnels Previous Member

Are you into compatition or just playing about ?? Like has been said buy a second hand boat and refurbish it like new do a 100% strip of all and everything and scrape the paint off and respray etc etc But if the boat has a balsa cored hull you can bet 100% that it will be wet and heavy so theres you chance to do a rebuild rather than start from scratch !! To SAVE IN WEIGHT if you do a rebuild use balsa and what ever glass and then infuse it !!! will never be able to make it any lighter than that , use paints and not gelcoats Pick you glass carefully !!woven glass materials are thicker and so used more resin , differant cloths for differant uses ,also the type of glass ask and choose wisely , use epoxy resin and make sure you speak to the chemist if possible and get the strongest with a little flex . (Not all resins are born equal ). save weight every where possible . there could be raised eyebrows of you under weight but han always screw a lead block ti the middle to bring it to the minimum weight and as the boat gets older get it re weighed and change the lead block ! You not breaking the rules just bending them a little !! But, what do i know !  

sonosail SONOSAIL

Lightning class plans About 20 years ago the Lightning class created a new set of plans/rules for plywood contruction. I think one boat boat was built using the WEST system. rb  

philSweet Senior Member

They are wonderful boats but you should be aware that some of the top small boat builders in the country have built these things. Expectations for a wooden hulled Lightning will be very high among class members, and not just among the elite racers. The woodies used to have a very slight rules advantage over the glass boats and most of the national champs went with woodies. There is a ballast allowance of twenty pounds on the centerline. Any extra has to be distributed elsewhere. If I recall, the object of the game is to come in exactly twenty pounds light at 680 in measurement trim and then max out the centerline ballast allowance. So basically, you assemble your rig, lines, hardware kit,CB, and rudder and weigh that. Then build the whole thing with temp fasteners and carefully weigh it again. Then take it all apart and put it together permanently after any adjustments allowing for glue and paint and fairing putty. Am I dreaming or were the old hulls all double diagonal planked on the bottom. I used to sail on one until I was five. I soloed it on the Chesapeake. My parents were more than a little annoyed I took the boat out. But all I remember was the fun I had and Mr Keck coming out and asking me to please return to the dock. Then he motored back to the dock and let me sail her in. Mr Keck gets lots of points for letting me do that and not towing me in. I've sailed on them once or twice since then. Keep all of your reciepts and document the build as you go and ask lots of questions of the association members.  

sonosail said: ↑ About 20 years ago the Lightning class created a new set of plans/rules for plywood contruction. I think one boat boat was built using the WEST system. rb Click to expand...

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Old Boat.. Guys.. Great information!!! After looking through the options and debating building from scratch I opted against it. You guys made some good points. Thank you so much. A few weeks back I picked up a 1970's Lightning for $100. I figured I would see if it was worth rebuilding to have some fun with it. I posted a new link since I am down to the outer skin in one section. I am probably crazy for giving this a shot but if all goes bad I'll have about $300 invested and that's all. And if the hull goes away I have a brand new mast, new boom, new spinnaker, good set of practice sails and about $500 in Harken hardware, a trailer in great shape and a SST centerboard. I figured I'd try removing the foam core in one area and stiffening to see what I get. Here is the link. Once again. Any and all information greatly appreciated!!! Here is the link: http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/boat-design/help-repairing-19-lightning-sailboat-44433.html  

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• Building the Lightning sailboat model (by Dumas)

Author Topic: Building the Lightning sailboat model (by Dumas)  (Read 1083 times)

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Re: Building the Lightning sailboat model (by Dumas)

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Lightning Sailboat by Woody S - from Dumas plans

By Woody S March 19, 2022 in - Build logs for subjects built 1901 - Present Day

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      I have been inspired by Andrew J's Lightning experience building first a Kit and then from scratch.

My children learned to sail in the 1960's on Lightning #5138. I would like  to create a model of that sailboat.  I have built scratch models of 1850's schooners before. But on this project I decided to take some shortcuts and start with the Dumas plans. The fun will be in the changes in rigging and paint to match the 1960's boat. The parts of the boat that won't be visible will not get much attention. Sorry purists.

Anyway here is a photo of the real boat. And a photo of progress to date. The only changes so far have been to add some interior ribs. The floorboards and seats will be the focus of the interior.

I would love to hear from anyone who can help me find the scale hardware. Also tips on the rigging aand finishes would be most appeciated.

Thanks, Woody

• GrandpaPhil , yvesvidal , Matt D and 2 others

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Share on other sites, roger pellett.

A nice suit of sails, beautifully set!  1960’s- I assume that this was still a Woody.

Thanks Roger.

Yes this was a Skaneateles built boat. We sailed it on Sacondaga Reservoir near Schenectady , NY

I just found a nice looking model of #392 on the Gallery here. It looks like he raised the seat level as did I. He also made a nice mast step. I wish I knew where he got the hardware.

A very nice looking sailing dinghy, Woody!

       I have been looking at pictures of old Lightnings near # 5138  to try and remember what my cockpit looked like. This morning I mocked up some seats and floorboards. The kit had solid wood for the seats and floorboards,  which was not my Skaneatlas design. Also I see that I am going to have to cut away more of the ribs under the deck .  I am planning to stain the centerboard trunk mahogany because that is what it was. The ribs were spruce and I am thinking of spruce floorboards as well. Too much dark mahogany for me. My color scheme will be a white deckand bottom and royal blue topsides.

• Roger Pellett , KeithAug , yvesvidal and 1 other

Peter Rumgay

Wow, my father and l built Lighting 7759 in 1966 in our basement. We both shared a great love of sailing

and ship model building. At 91 my father remembered he still had the blue prints of the Lighting and asked me 

to built him a model  of our boat. I hope you have a much fun building your Lighting as l did because it brought

back such great memories. Cheers, Peter Rumgay

 That is interesting. The Lightning was designed by Sparkman & Stevens with home building in mind. But my hat is off to you for doing it.

Do you have a picture of the model or the boat ?

The Lightning class superceded the Star class here in Noroton Bay, CT in the 1940's and I learned to sail as a crew.

Best, Woody

That mock up looks pretty good!

l haven't worked out how to send pictures to MSW yet. I can send you pictures of my model if you

sent me an e-mail [email protected]. My turnbuckles came from a. J. Fisher models with some

modification.Blocks came Cornwall model fittings (England) the corell line of ship model kits. The

stainless wire rigging  and halyards which make the model look so good came from Cornwall models

as well. Mast & Boom track is made thin brass rod. I too purchase the Dumas kit but only used it as

guide to build my lighting as the rib sizes were wrong. The block sizes on mine are out , make sure you

scale them properly . You model is really coming along and going to look great. 

    Wow ! That is so helpful. I can't wait to rsearch those  fittings and rigging. I was wondering about the mast track. I was thinking my mast was slotted for the  bolt rope of the sail. (easier to do 🙂 ) but I am probably wrong.

PLease do email  pictures of your model.   Email  [email protected].    I just emailed you and hope it goes through.  I am looking forward to seeing  the details of your boat.

Did receive you e-mail and sent pictures that l Hope help. Lightings of that era had mast 

tracks and slides very hard to reproduce at that scale and beyond my skills, that's why l 

went thin brass rod with very tiny rings to hold sail. 

Cheers Peter

     I received your email, but unfortunately no pictures were attached. Maybe it is because I have a PC and you have Apple, but probably it is something else. I don't understand why you can't attach your picture files to your messages here. On the bottom it says " choose files".

     Anyway I am in the process of gluing on the deck tonight.  (picture)

     Your model will be authentic inasmuch as you took the time to build the real frames, and planked it. Mine will not, but I hope that the casual observer will not be able to see the lack of interior detail. If I had had your plans i might have done it. I spent a lot of time trying to turn the Dumas Bass wood centerboard trunk into mahoghany, whereas you probaly made yours out of real mahogany from the start. Anyway I will make a mahoghany rudder.

    I am thinking that I will paint the deck before putting on the cockpit coaming and splash boards.

• GrandpaPhil and yvesvidal

Today I worked on the floorboard . Next I will have to make the forward and aft seats  and figure out how they were supported. The picture on the left is of a Lightning sailboat of a similar vintage. I can see some more modifications for me to copy that. I wish I could figure out how to rotate these pictures.

• Paul Le Wol , yvesvidal , wefalck and 2 others

Looking very classy!

For one I would make the frames out of bass wood instead of the oversize balsa provided. I cut out a lot of the balsa frames but would have liked to do more. The cockpit trim called for on the plans is not correct and is going to take a lot of work to make and fit although I was able to utiilze  the mahogany from the kit. 

I decided to cut the centerboard slot in the bottom plank before gluing it on. From here on I will have to use research to go forward with cockpit trim , mast step, chainplates, and rigging. This will take happy time.

• Andrew J. , GrandpaPhil , wefalck and 2 others

Wonderful job on the seats and floor boards! I hope to make mine look as good when I get to them.

Beautiful job on this boat.  I have a kit built version put together after I bought my full scale lighting, a Skaneateles built boat #7592.  I sold it 10 years ago, it underwent full restoration and still races competitively on the East Coast and at the Mid-Winters in Tampa every year.

current dry dock  USS Arizona

• 4 weeks later...

Thank you Dion and Andrew for your kind remarks.

Especially, coming from Andrew who built his beautiful Lightning hull from scratch . I use the picture of his model for reference. I also got a lot of good info from Peter Rumgays lovely boat.

I am now into the hard part of working without any plans I have scoured the internet  trying to find out exactly where the Centerboard spool and reel are located. And how are the jack stays attached to the jumper struts ? I have ordered rigging fittings, stainless steel, working turnbuckles and even a boom vang.  It looks like I will have to make brass tangs and chainplates. But it is all good fun. I scrapped the Dumas rudder and centerboard. I am going to make my tiller  the same as it was on #5138, split and reinforced with brass. I am going to put the rub rails on last

Cheers, Woody

• Roger Pellett , yvesvidal , wefalck and 2 others
• 1 month later...

I have finally finished painting the hull. It took many trys before I got the mirror finish on the topsides. I finally used auto body primer and paint. (many coats).

Putting the rub rails on last was a mistake because the glue got everywhere and I had to sand down and redo.

Now I have the fun of installing the centerboard and its mechanism. Then the mast and rigging.

If anyone knows where I can find realistic jib sheets and main sheet lines ( eg ;braided dacron ) Please let me know.

Thanks , Woody

• berhard , wefalck , Paul Le Wol and 6 others

Beautiful job!  It looks like the real thing.

That is absolutely stunning! I would love to see details about how you made the centerboard drum. That's something I've been puzzling over for quite some time now. And the rudder hardware looks especially excellent I must say!

Roger, Thank you very much for your comment. At this point I need a lot of encouragement.

Andrew, where is your finished model ? I have printed the pictures of the amazing hull that you made from the original plans. Have you gone further?

Thank you for your comments. I turned the drum and spool  from cherry wood and then drilled the lightening holes. There is not a lot of room under the deck for the mechanism. I think the pintles and gudgeons on the rudder came from modlers central in Australia.

She is a beauty!   Are there are areas where the deck is "rough" to provide non skid surface?   Had this situation on an Islander 36 model many years ago and could not figure a way to do this to scale for a while.  Finally came up with  using powdered glass in the fiberglass molds where these areas were to be.  The positives that came out of the mold were a perfect replication.  I am sure a similar treatment could work on the positive versus the mold if you need to have such an area.  

Again, your workmanship is great!

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on  http://trafalgar.tv     There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

well done, looks great, keep up the good work. Love to sail a lighting again.

cheers. Peter Rumgay

Unfortunately it's been quite some time since I made any progress. I really have to be in the right head space to work on it, and I don't want to work on it just because I feel like I have to. Seeing your progress is a great inspiration though, so my motivation might be coming back soon. We shall see! I don't have access to a lathe or any kind of fancy tools like that, so if there's any chance you might be up to creating another one of those centerboard drums for me, I would be happy to pay you for your time and skill. Please feel free to private message me if that's something you would be willing to do.

Thank you for telling me about your method of achieving a realistic non-skid deck on your model.

Peter Rumgay used cotton cloth and paint on his beautiful model Lightning and it looks great . It is in keeping with the way Lightnings of that era were actually done.

I have been thinking about mixing some fine salt with paint. In the end I will probably just wet sand the deck and move on.

I think that I know what you mean about inspiration and competing interests. I am packing now to spend the Summer in Hood River, OR where I will see family and hopefully do some kiteboarding.

I am happy to turn you a drum/spool when I get back in September. The hard part was getting the specifications. The turning takes about an hour. I owe you big time for all the info I got from your blog. I will just have to get your address which I can do when I get back.

Best Wishes, Woody

On 6/11/2022 at 10:47 PM, Woody S said: It took many trys before I got the mirror finish on the topsides.

It certainly worked, looks beautiful.

Current Build:-

Cangarda (Steam Yacht) - Scale 1:24

Previous Builds:-

Schooner Germania (Nova) - Scale 1:36

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19848-schooner-germania-nova-by-keithaug-scale-136-1908-2011/

Schooner Altair by KeithAug - Scale 1:32 - 1931

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12515-schooner-altair-by-keithaug-scale-132-1931/?p=378702

J Class Endeavour by KeithAug - Amati - Scale 1:35 - 1989 after restoration.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10752-j-class-endeavour-by-keithaug-amati-scale-135-1989-after-restoration/?p=325029

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• 3 months later...

The model of "Firefly" Lightning #5138 is in the final stages. I have been working hard on her since returning from Hood River, OR.

I still need to add the tiller extension and do a better job of coiling the lines, improving the boom vang, and then making a stand .

I thank all of you for your help along the way. I wish I had used the scale ribs as did Andrew instead of the Dumas kit plans. And the mahogany from the kit was not a good choice. Peter's model looks much better in cherry

I had a devil of a time figuring out the rigging. And I had to make many parts several times, because they kept breaking or getting lost on the floor. I could not find scale cleats and had to carve them out of wood. My craftsmanship did not do justice to the many small parts. But it was an enjoyable puzzle, and for me the boat looks very much like Firefly #5138.

Best wishes, Woody

• Andrew J. , yvesvidal , berhard and 4 others

I feel like I should find a new adjective, but "absolutely stunning" is always the first thing that pops into my head when I see what you've created here. Looking forward to seeing what you do for a stand. I'm thinking of trying something with plexiglass or lexan, kind of like the display stand I got for my Lego Millennium Falcon, so it looks like it's just floating there. 

I really appreciate the compliment from Andrew. I have not shown the model boat to my friends here, and it is nice to get feed back. I must say that I could do a better job on the next one. Building without plans is difficult.

I just ordered a display case from BlueJacket. I condidered plexiglass. It is less expensive and more contemporary. Contemporary models look very good under plexiglass. But in the end I chose cherry wood to match the other models that I have made. The measurements include the centerbosrd halfway down

The stand and cradle will be as simple as possible. I am working on the design. (Andrew , I have not forgotten your drum and spindle)

Oh, I did not try and make the deck non skid. Too many possible problems.

• gsdpic , Andrew J. , yvesvidal and 6 others

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• Sailboat Guide

Lightning is a 18 ′ 11 ″ / 5.8 m monohull sailboat designed by Sparkman & Stephens and built by Nickels Boat Works, Inc., Skaneateles Boat & Canoe Co., Helms - Jack A. Helms Co., Siddons & Sindle, Lippincott Boat Works, J.J. Taylor and Sons Ltd., Lockley Newport Boats, Eichenlaub Boat Co., Mobjack Manufacturing Corp., Clark Boat Company, Allen Boat Co., and Loftland Sail-craft Inc. starting in 1938.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

One of the most popular one-design classes in the US since the 1940’s. But fleets also exist in other parts of the world. Although originally designed for wood planked construction, nearly all boats since the early 1960’s have been built of fiberglass. Ballast above is max weight of centerboard.

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Lightning Model Kit

Description.

  This is one of the most popular kits we have ever offered. It might be because it is pretty simple to build, or that it's a handsome boat. But because so many folks order two, we think it is because they are so much fun to race.

Made with precision pre-cut balsa frames and mahogany planking, the kit includes plans, thorough instructions, nylon sails, line for rigging, and hardware. Plus it has a lead weight which you attach to the bottom of the centerboard if you are going to sail it. 

This Lightning scale replica is a great way to learn about boats, without having to spend the time on precise cutting. You supply the varnish, paint, glue, and a few household tools, everything else is included. Designed for sailing on your favorite "golden pond" or as a handsome addition to your mantelpiece. Couple of building tips: clothespins make great clamps, and styrofoam (not the corn-starch based type) peanuts make great flotation under the foreward and aft decks. This model is not designed for remote control. If you sail on a larger pond and don't have a chase boat, kite string/spool are very handy.

Scale: 1" =1' LOA: 19" Beam: 6 1/2" Height: 26" Note: that stand in the photo isn't included... we made that in just a few minutes from scrap wood. You'll likely make something prettier!

Skill Level = 1

Skill levels are: 1 = beginner 2 = intermediate 3 = advanced

If you'd like a better understanding of just what you are getting yourself in for, click: INSTRUCTIONS.   

You'll supply paint, and simple household tools:

Razor / X-acto knife, ruler, wood glue, super glue, Course, Medium, and Fine grit sandpaper, small paint brush, masking tape, 3/32" drill bit, needle, thread, pliers and cutting pliers, pins, clothespins for clamps.

Customer Reviews

My son and I built this boat(he mostly watched). Very fulfilling, nice kit, he sails it in the pool. Money/time well spent!

I bought this for my brother, and he loves it. He said it is way better than the plastic models he’s done lately, getting more involved with shaping and sanding the pieces. The quality of the materials and intimacy of the directions feels like he’s building with the producer, not a faceless company. I’m betting he gets more kits in the future!

Very nice kit!

I like the kit. It is very complete. The instructions are good, but require a lot if flipping back and fourth between the text and the diagrams. I started off using cyanoacrylate glue, that was a mistake. Now I’m using wood glue and the build is going much better. I am about half way. It is a fun model to build. Mine will be painted to match the Lightning I once had, 13703.

I have built many wooden boat models over the years but haven’t done so for about 10 years. This is a great starter, just read through the instructions first and take your time.

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Lightning Sailboat 19 Kit

This 1" to 1' scale replica of the Lightning class boat also makes a beautiful display model for your office or living room. The kit is made up of plywood frames and handsome mahogany planking. Nylon sails add the finishing touch to this kit.

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• Length 19 inches
• Beam 6-1/2 inches
• Mast 26 inches
• Sail Control Unit Not designed for radio control
• Dumas Product Number: 1110

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Dumas Products Inc

Lightning Sailboat Model Kit

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• Combination of laser cut and die cut wooden parts for quality fit
• Nylon sails and rigging
• Step-by-step instructions
• Length 19" x Beam 6-1/2" x Mast 26"
• Skill Level: Introductory Beginner some building experience helpful

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• This product is considered special order. Your account will be charged when you place your order.
• Express or overnight shipping is not available for this product.
• Ships by Ground to the 48 contiguous states. Cannot ship to Alaska, Hawaii, PO Boxes, APOs, US Territories, Canada or other foreign countries.

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Dumas Products

Serving the model hobby industry since 1947. Office hours Monday-Thursday 7:30 am – 4:00 pm MST. Closed Friday-Sunday.

Plans & Inst.-Kit #1110-Lightning

Description.

Plans & Instructions for Kit #1110-Lightning

**Please Note** Plans are not suited for scratch build.

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International Lightning Class Association

Class contact information.

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Class Email

Class Website

One-Design Class Type: Dinghy

Was this boat built to be sailed by youth or adults? Both

Approximately how many class members do you have? 1600

Photo Credit:Douglas Wake

Photo Credit: Art Petrosemolo

About International Lightning Class Association

The Lightning truly excels as an affordable racing boat. The rig is simple but offers sophisticated sail shape controls. The hull features a unique hard chine design that combines the stability that provides sail-carrying power, with flat bottom sections that promote planing. At 700 pounds all up, the trailerable centerboard sloop is tough enough to avoid frequent breakdowns, but light enough to plane wildly on the reaches. Membership is diverse with sailors aged 8 to 80+. Many families sail together at top events and it is common to see females make up at least 40% of competitors.

The Lightning is sailed in more than thirteen countries and in the Pan American Games. A World, Master World and Youth World Championships are held every two years. North American, South American and European Championships are held each year as are innumerable regional and District championships. Major regattas attract some of the finest sailors in the world, but you find Class members friendly and the sailmakers’ complete tuning guides helpful at getting you up to speed in a hurry.

The International Lightning Class Association is one of the oldest and best organized class associations in sailboat racing. Its primary purpose is to serve its membership, preserve the integrity of the Lightning and provide high-quality competitive events. In addition, the Lightning Class publishes monthly e-blasts and a quarterly newsletter Flashes with up-to-date regatta news, boat brokerage and ideas on how to get the most out of your Lightning. The professionally managed association and dedicated volunteers are always on hand to assist both current and potential members.

If you’re looking for a boat you can be proud to sail, one that offers dinghy handling with the performance of a sport boat, a refined design that’s free of fads, complete with the technology of today for both racing and day sailing – look at the Lightning.

Boats Produced: 15630+

Class boat builder(s):

Allen Boat Company, Buffalo, NY: https://www.allenboatco.com/

WindRider International: https://www.windrider.com/

Approximately how many boats are in the USA/North America? 11,000+

Where is your One-Design class typically sailed in the USA? List regions of the country:

East of the Mississippi, Mid-West, Texas, Denver, San Diego, Pacific Northwest Click Here for Fleet Finder Map: https://www.lightningclass.org/content.aspx?page_id=451&club_id=93488

Does this class have a spinnaker or gennaker? Yes

How many people sail as a crew including the helm?  3

Ideal combined weight of range of crew:  490

Boat Designed in  1938

Length (feet/inches): 19’0″

Beam: 6’6″

Weight of rigged boat without sails: 700 lbs

Draft: (board down): 4’11”, (board up): 5″

Mast Height: 26’2″

Back to One-Design Central

Copyright ©2018-2024 United States Sailing Association. All rights reserved. US Sailing is a 501(c)3 organization. Website designed & developed by Design Principles, Inc. -->

Marine Lightning Protection

• Introduction
• Sideflashes
• The lightning system
• Collaboration
• Air terminals
• Grounding concepts
• Grounding guide
• Design & build
• Connections
• Grounding Strips
• Siedarc TM Electrodes

Develop your system Our objective is to design your boat lightning protection system to resemble that on a building where air terminals are around the roof perimeter, multiple down conductors are on the outside, and multiple ground rods buried outside the footings. The main difference is that we use grounding electrodes in place of ground rods, for obvious reasons. The main elements of our system are the following: Design your own The distinctive feature in a sailboat is the pre-existing lightning rod that carries the sails. If the mast is aluminum it can be used as a main down conductor, although it is advisable to add an air terminal at the masthead for protection of transducers. If the mast is carbon fiber then using it as a down conductor may result in its destruction. Likewise, aluminum toe rails can be used as a substantial part of the loop conductor, as can arches and pulpits. On a powerboat, existing conducting fittings such as handrails, outriggers, T-tops, biminis, and metallic superstructures can form an integral part of the system. Since we already have a network of down conductors that are predominantly near the outside of the hull, the natural location for air terminals is also around the perimeter and these can be mounted on metal handrails, inside composite handrails, and on the tops of roofs. Useful links Our page has diagrams and information for many of our systems. Look through these to see if we have already designed a system for a similar vessel to your own. The topics in the INFORMATION menu explain several relevant aspects of basic science, system design and components. Of particular relevance to designing your own system are: explains the basic function of an air terminal, the zone-of-protection concept, and why dissipators should not be used. presents several in-print and on-line articles dealing with fundamental concepts, our system and our products. discusses fundamental physical concepts that are applicable to lightning protection on the water. shows how to use Siedarc electrodes in a marine lightning grounding system. describes the discharge processes involved in a strike to a boat. discusses the general approach to lightning protection using external conductors and explains some specific hazards and techniques for different types of boats. The PRODUCTS menu describes our product line that includes: , and electrodes Ask us Although there are common features to all systems, every system typically has customized aspects. We can help with the specifics for individual product details up to complete systems. Please send us an including a brief description of your vessel, your approximate budget, your phone number and photos or design drawings. After a quick review of your requirements, we will call you back and discuss your options. While more extensive analysis may involve additional , this initial consultation is free of charge. Contact 3215 NW 17th Street Gainesville Florida 32605   +1 352 373-3485           Yachting Monthly Digital edition Sailing in lightning: how to keep your yacht safe In partnership with Katy Stickland July 22, 2022 How much of a concern is a lightning strike to a yacht and what can we do about it? Nigel Calder looks at what makes a full ‘belt and braces’ lightning protection system Storm clouds gather at Cowes, but what lightning protection system, if any, does your boat have for anchoring or sailing in lightning? Credit: Patrick Eden/Alamy Stock Photo Most sailors worry about sailing in lightning to some extent, writes Nigel Calder . After all, going around with a tall metal pole on a flat sea when storm clouds threaten doesn’t seem like the best idea to most of us. In reality, thunder storms need plenty of energy, driven by the sun, and are much less frequent in northern Europe than in the tropics. However, high currents passing through resistive conductors generate heat. Small diameter conductors melt; wooden masts explode; and air gaps that are bridged by an arc start fires. Sailing in lightning: Lightning is 10 times more likely over land than sea, as the land heats up more than water, providing the stronger convection currents needed to create a charge. Credit: BAE Inc/Alamy Stock Photo On boats, radio antennas may be vaporised, and metal thru-hulls blown out of the hull, or the surrounding fiberglass melted, with areas of gelcoat blown off. Wherever you sail, lightning needs to be taken seriously. Understanding how lightning works, will help you evaluate the risks and make an informed decision about the level of protection you want on your boat and what precautions to take. Most lightning is what’s called negative lightning, between the lower levels of clouds and the earth. Intermittent pre-discharges occur, ionising the air. Whereas air is normally a poor electrical conductor, ionised air is an excellent conductor. These pre-discharges (stepped leaders) are countered by a so-called attachment spark (streamer), which emanates from pointed objects (towers, masts, or lightning rods) that stand out from their surroundings due to their height. Summer is the season for lightning storms in the UK. Here, one finds early at Instow, Devon. Credit: Terry Matthews/Alamy Stock Photo This process continues until an attachment spark connects with a stepped leader, creating a lightning channel of ionised air molecules from the cloud to ground. The main discharge, typically a series of discharges, now takes place through the lightning channel. Negative lightning bolts are 1 to 2km (0.6 to 1.2 miles) long and have an average current of 20,000A. Positive lightning bolts are much rarer and they can have currents of up to 300,000A. Preventing damage when sailing in lightning A lightning protection system (LPS) is designed to divert lightning energy to ground (in this case the sea), in such a way that no damage occurs to the boat or to people. Ideally, this also includes protecting a boat’s electrical and electronic systems, but marine electronics are sensitive and this level of protection is hard to achieve. Lightning protection systems have two key components: First, a mechanism to provide a path with as little resistance as possible that conducts a lightning strike to the water. This is established with a substantial conductor from an air-terminal to the water. Components of an external and internal lightning protection system. Credit: Maxine Heath This part of the LPS is sometimes called external lightning protection. Second, a mechanism to prevent the development of high voltages on, and voltage differences between, conductive objects on the boat. This is achieved by connecting all major metal objects on and below deck to the water by an equipotential bonding system. Without this bonding system high enough voltage differences can arise on a boat to develop dangerous side flashes. The bonding system can be thought of as internal lightning protection. Rolling ball concept Lightning standards, which apply ashore and afloat, define five lightning protection ‘classes’, ranging from Class V (no protection) to Class I. There are two core parameters: the maximum current the system must be able to withstand, which determines the sizing of various components in the system, and the arrangement and number of the air terminals, aka lightning rods. Let’s look at the arrangement of the air terminals first. It is best explained by the rolling ball concept. A lightning strike is initiated by the stepped leaders and attachment sparks connecting to form the lightning channel. The distance between the stepped leader and the attachment sparks is known as the breakdown distance or striking distance. If we imagine a ball with a radius equal to the striking distance, and we roll this ball around an object to be protected, the upper points of contact define the possible lightning impact points that need to be protected by air terminals. Lightning protection theories and classifications rely on a ‘rolling ball’ concept to define requirements, areas of risk and protected areas. Credit: Maxine Heath The air terminal will theoretically provide a zone of protection from the point at which the terminal connects with the circumference of the rolling ball down to the point at which that circumference touches the water. The shorter the striking distance, the less the radius of the rolling ball and the smaller the area within the protection zone defined by the circumference of the rolling ball. The smaller the protection zone, the more air terminals we need. So, we use the shortest striking distance to determine the minimum number and location of air terminals. Class I protection assumes a rolling ball radius of 20m; Class II assumes a rolling ball radius of 30m. Continues below… Lightning: why we were struck A personal investigation into how and why a catamaran was hit by lightning ‘Lightning destroyed the boat’s electronics’ Paul Tinley recounts a truly shocking lightning experience aboard his Beneteau 393 Blue Mistress and the subsequent insurance claim Expert advice: boating emergency A boating emergency is the sort of thing that everyone taking to the water should be prepared for even if,… How batteries can explode – and how to avoid it Marine electrical expert Nigel Calder explains why boat batteries emit hydrogen and how to minimise the dangers Boat building standards are based on a striking distance/rolling ball radius of 30m (Class II). For masts up to 30m above the waterline, the circumference of the ball from the point at which it contacts the top of the mast down to the water will define the zone of protection. For masts higher than 30m above the waterline, the ball will contact the mast at 30m and this will define the limit of the zone of protection. If Class I protection is wanted, the radius of the ball is reduced to 20m, which significantly reduces the zone of protection and, on many larger recreational boats, may theoretically necessitate more than one air terminal. Protection classes With most single-masted monohull yachts, an air terminal at the top of the mast is sufficient to protect the entire boat to Class I standards. The circumference of the rolling ball from the tip of the mast down to the surface of the water does not intercept any part of the hull or rig. However, someone standing on the fore or aft deck might have the upper part of their body contact the rolling ball, which tells us this is no place to be in a lightning storm. Some boats have relatively high equipment or platforms over and behind the cockpit. Protection classes to protect your boat while anchored or sailing in lightning These fittings and structures may or may not be outside the circumference of the rolling ball. Once again, this tells us to avoid contact with these structures during a lightning storm. Ketch, yawl, and schooner rigged boats generally require air terminals on all masts, except when the mizzen is significantly shorter than the main mast. The external LPS The external LPS consists of the air terminal, a down conductor, and an earthing system – a lightning grounding terminal. The down conductor is also known as a primary lightning protection conductor. All components must be sized to carry the highest lightning peak current corresponding to the protection class chosen. In particular, the material and cross-sectional area of the air terminal and down conductor must be such that the lightning current does not cause excessive heating. The air terminal needs to extend a minimum of 150mm above the mast to which it is attached. A graph depicting NASA’s record of yearly global lightning events. The Congo once recorded more than 450 strikes per km2 It can be a minimum 10mm diameter copper rod, or 13mm diameter aluminum solid rod. It should have a rounded, rather than a pointed, top end. VHF antennas are commonly destroyed in a lightning strike. If an antenna is hit and is not protected by a lightning arrestor at its base, the lightning may enter the boat via the antenna’s coax cable. A lightning arrestor is inserted in the line between the coax cable and the base of the antenna. It has a substantial connection to the boat’s grounding system, which, on an aluminum mast, is created by its connection to the mast. In normal circumstances, the lightning arrestor is nonconductive to ground. When hit by very high voltages it shorts to ground, in theory causing a lightning strike to bypass the coax – although the effectiveness of such devices is a matter of some dispute. Down conductors A down conductor is the electrically conductive connection between an air terminal and the grounding terminal. For many years, this conductor was required to have a resistance no more than that of a 16mm² copper conductor, but following further research, the down conductor is now required to have a resistance not greater than that of a 20mm² copper conductor. For Class I protection, 25mm² is needed. This is to minimise heating effects. Let’s say instead we use a copper conductor with a cross-sectional area of 16mm² and it is hit by a lightning strike with a peak current corresponding to Protection Class IV. Sailing in lightning: This catamaran relies upon cabling to ground from the shrouds but stainless steel wire is not a good enough conductor. Credit: Wietze van der Laan The conductor will experience a temperature increase of 56°C. A 16mm² conductor made of stainless steel (for example, rigging ) will reach well over 1,000°C and melt or evaporate. Shrouds and stays on sailboats should be connected into a LPS only to prevent side flashes. The cross-sectional area of the metal in aluminum masts on even small sailboats is such that it provides a low enough resistance path to be the down conductor. Whether deck- or keel-mounted, the mast will require a low resistance path, equivalent to a 25mm² copper conductor, from the base of the mast to the grounding terminal. Grounding terminal Metal hulled boats can use the hull as the grounding terminal. All other boats need an adequate mass of underwater metal. In salt water this needs a minimum area of 0.1m². In fresh water, European standards call for the grounding terminal to be up to 0.25m². A grounding terminal must be submerged under all operating conditions. An external lead or iron keel on monohull sailing boats can serve as a grounding terminal. This owner of this Florida-based yacht decided to keep the keel out of the equation when is came to a grounding plate. High electrical currents don’t like sharp corners, so a grounding plate directly beneath the mast makes for an easier route to ground. Credit: Malcolm Morgan In the absence of a keel , the cumulative surface area of various underwater components – propellers, metal thru-hulls, rudders – is often more than sufficient to meet the area requirements for a grounding terminal. However, these can only be considered adequate if they are situated below the air terminal and down conductor and individually have the requisite surface area. Metal through-hulls do not meet this requirement. If underwater hardware, such as a keel, is adequate to be used as the grounding terminal, the interconnecting conductor is part of the primary down conductor system and needs to be sized accordingly at 25mm². Propellers and radio ground plates Regardless of its size, a propeller is not suitable as a grounding terminal for two reasons. First, it is very difficult to make the necessary low-resistance electrical connection to the propeller shaft, and second, the primary conductor now runs horizontally through the boat. The risk of side flashes within the boat, and through the hull to the water is increased. Sailing in lightning: GRP hull, fairing filler and iron keel will have carried different voltages during the strike – hence this damage An engine should never be included in the main (primary) conducting path to a grounding terminal. On modern engines, sensitive electronic controls will be destroyed in a lightning strike, and on all engines, oil in bearings and between gears will create resistance and therefore considerable heat which is likely to result in internal damage. However, as it is a large conductive object, the engine should be connected to the internal lightning protection system. Internal lightning protection On its way to ground, lightning causes considerable voltage differences in adjacent objects – up to hundreds of thousands of volts. This applies to boats with a functioning external lightning protection system but without internal protection. Although the lightning has been given a path to ground along which it will cause as little damage as possible, dangerous voltages can be generated elsewhere, resulting in arcing and side flashes, threatening the boat and crew, and destroying electronic equipment. We prevent these damaging voltage differences from arising by connecting all substantial metal objects on the boat to a common grounding point. One of the holy grails of marine photography – a direct lightning strike on a yacht’s mast. Credit: Apex The grounding terminal is also wired to the common grounding point. By tying all these circuits and objects together we hold them at a common voltage, preventing the build-up of voltage differences between them. All conductive surfaces that might be touched at the same time, such as a backstay and a steering wheel, need to be held to the same voltage. If the voltages are the same, there will be no arcing and no side flashes. The bonding conductors in this internal LPS need to be stranded copper with a minimum size of 16mm². Note that there can be bonding of the same object for corrosion prevention, lightning protection, and sometimes DC grounding. We do not need three separate conductors. Electronic Device Protection With lightning protection systems, we need to distinguish electric circuit and people protection from device protection. Even with an internal LPS, high induced voltages may occur on ungrounded conductors (such as DC positive) which will destroy any attached electronics. A mechanism is needed to short high transient voltages to ground. This is done with surge protection devices (SPD), also known as transient voltage surge suppressors (TVSS) or lightning arrestors. Marine-specific SPDs are few in number and domestic models are not suitable for boats In normal circumstances these devices are non-conductive, but if a specified voltage – the clamping voltage – is exceeded they divert the spike to ground. There are levels of protection defined in various standards depending on the voltages and currents that can be handled, the speed with which this occurs, and other factors. This is a highly technical subject for which it is advisable to seek professional support. Most SPDs are designed for AC circuits. When it comes to DC circuits there are far fewer choices available to boat owners although there are an increasing number for solar installations that may be appropriate. There is no such thing as a lightning-proof boat, only a lightning-protected boat, and for this there needs to be a properly installed LPS. Nigel Calder is a lifelong sailor and author of Boatowner’s Mechanical and Electrical Manual. He is involved in setting standards for leisure boats in the USA Even so, in a major strike the forces involved are so colossal that no practical measures can be guaranteed to protect sensitive electronic equipment. For this, protection can be provided with specialised surge protection devices (SPDs). The chances of a direct lightning strike on a yacht are very small, and the further we are north or south of the equator, the smaller this chance becomes. It’s likely your chances of receiving a direct lightning strike are very much higher on a golf course than at sea. ‘Bottle brush’-type lightning dissipators are claimed by sellers to make a boat invisible to lightning by bleeding off static electrical charge as it builds up. The theory rests upon the concept that charged electrons from the surface of the earth can be made to congregate on a metal point, where the physical constraints caused by the geometry of the point will result in electrons being pushed off into the surrounding atmosphere via a ‘lightning dissipator’ that has not just one point, but many points. It is worth noting that the concept has met with a storm of derision from many leading academics who have argued that the magnitude of the charge that can be dissipated by such a device is insignificant compared to that of both a cloud and individual lightning strikes. It seems that the viable choices for lightning protection remain the LPS detailed above, your boatbuilder’s chosen system (if any), or taking one’s chances with nothing and the (reasonable) confidence that it’s possible to sail many times round the world with no protection and suffer no direct strikes. Whichever way you go, it pays to stay off the golf course! Enjoyed reading Sailing in lightning: how to keep your yacht safe? A subscription to Yachting Monthly magazine costs around 40% less than the cover price . Print and digital editions are available through Magazines Direct – where you can also find the latest deals . YM is packed with information to help you get the most from your time on the water. Take your seamanship to the next level with tips, advice and skills from our experts Impartial in-depth reviews of the latest yachts and equipment Cruising guides to help you reach those dream destinations Follow us on Facebook , Twitter and Instagram.  Print This Page  Text Size  Scroll To Top A Brief History of the Lightning Part i — the origins of the idea. Sponsor Number URL address Sponsor 1 https://www.marksetbot.com/ Sponsor 2 http://www.onedesign.com/Default.aspx Sponsor 3 https://www.thesailinginc.com/lightning Sponsor 4 http://nickelsboats.com/ Sponsor 5 http://awardandsports.securesites.net/ Sponsor 6 http://www.capitallogoinc.com/shop/pc/home.asp Sponsor 7 http://www.rookesails.com/ Sponsor 8 http://www.sailorstailor.com Sponsor 9 https://www.harken.com/ Sponsor 10 http://www.sailorstailor.com Lightning Class Supporters 265 IMAGES Image result for lightning sailboat Lightning Sailboat by Woody S Wooden lightning sailboat ~ Plans for boat Lightning Sailboat by Woody S Lightning Sailboat Rigging Diagram Wooden lightning sailboat ~ Plans for boat COMMENTS Lightning Sailboat 19' build Lightning Sailboat 19' build Discussion in ' Boat Design ' started by FirstLight, Aug 21, 2012 . Build a Wooden Lightning Credits: Photos taken by the builder of #15219 Armando Trivero Lightning (dinghy) Lightning. The Lightning is a recreational sailboat, initially built with wooden plank construction and, since the early 1960s, of fiberglass with wood trim. It has a fractional sloop rig with wooden or aluminum spars. The rig employs a backstay, anchored off center, so as to not impede the tiller. Building the Lightning sailboat model (by Dumas) Building the Lightning sailboat model (by Dumas) I'm currently building a Lightning wooden sailboat model. This is my first time building a model of this sort, and for my grandson, who's building the same model in step with my build, it's his first time ever working with tools and his hands. Needless to say, we could use a little advice ... Home The Lightning, a 19-foot trailerable centerboard sloop, was originally designed by Sparkman & Stephens as an affordable family day-sailor and racing boat. She has evolved into one of the most popular Lightning Sailboat by Woody S I have been inspired by Andrew J's Lightning experience building first a Kit and then from scratch. My children learned to sail in the 1960's on Lightning #5138. I would like to create a model of that sailboat. I have built scratch models of 1850's schooners before. But on this project I decided ... Lightning Class build Re: Lightning Class build ...which show a boat built completely different from the way Prudence is put together. Prudence is single planked the long way, rather than multiple diagonal plys across the bottom. Lightning Lightning is a 18′ 11″ / 5.8 m monohull sailboat designed by Sparkman & Stephens and built by Clark Boat Company, Lippincott Boat Works, Nickels Boat Works, Inc., Allen Boat Co., Helms - Jack A. Helms Co., J.J. Taylor and Sons Ltd., Lockley Newport Boats, Skaneateles Boat & Canoe Co., Mobjack Man... Lightning Model Kit The Lightning is one of the most popular kits we have ever offered. It might be because it is pretty simple to build, or that it's a handsome boat. Dumas Lightning Sailboat 19 Kit Wooden Boat Model Kit #1110 Lightning Sailboat 19 Kit This 1" to 1' scale replica of the Lightning class boat also makes a beautiful display model for your office or living room. The kit is made up of plywood frames and handsome mahogany planking. Nylon sails add the finishing touch to this kit. (4) Dumas # dum1110 Storefront Complete plans for building a Lightning. Entitles you to build one Lightning boat and to have an official ILCA number assigned to your hull. Included is a copy of the Wooden Boat Magazine article and Hamlin & Smith supplement plans, as well as the original Sparkman & Stephens plans. Price: $100.00 — Boat Number. Dumas Products Inc Lightning Sailboat Model Kit Buy the Dumas Products Inc Lightning Sailboat Model Kit for sale online from Woodcraft. Visit us to order online or find your local Woodcraft store today! LIGHTNING One of the most popular one-design classes in the US since the 1940's. But fleets also exist in other parts of the world. Although originally designed for wood planked construction, nearly all boats since the early 1960's have been built of fiberglass. Ballast above is max weight of centerboard. Plans & Inst.-Kit #1110-Lightning Plans & Instructions for Kit #1110-Lightning **Please Note** Plans are not suited for scratch build. About Lightning The International Lightning Class Association protects the boat's design and licenses custom and private builders to build boats under its administration. A list of Lightning builders is available from the ILCA upon request. International Lightning Class Association The International Lightning Class Association is one of the oldest and best organized class associations in sailboat racing. Its primary purpose is to serve its membership, preserve the integrity of the Lightning and provide high-quality competitive events. In addition, the Lightning Class publishes monthly e-blasts and a quarterly newsletter ... Build your system Sailboat The distinctive feature in a sailboat is the pre-existing lightning rod that carries the sails. If the mast is aluminum it can be used as a main down conductor, although it is advisable to add an air terminal at the masthead for protection of transducers. First-Time Buyers Guide All royalties for many of the boat's components, including the hull, mast, and sails go to the International Lightning Class Association, who also regulates the design and the Class activities. Sailing in lightning: how to keep your yacht safe Preventing damage when sailing in lightning A lightning protection system (LPS) is designed to divert lightning energy to ground (in this case the sea), in such a way that no damage occurs to the boat or to people. Ideally, this also includes protecting a boat's electrical and electronic systems, but marine electronics are sensitive and this level of protection is hard to achieve. Lightning ... #167 by Bill Oben The Lightning sailboat was designed by the Naval Architectural firm of Sparkman & Stephens in response to a request from John and George Barnes, owners of Skaneateles Boats, Inc. The Barnes brothers were interested in building a one-design sailboat which could be used both for racing as well as family day sailing. The two firms collaborated closely on the design of the sailboat ... History1 The Lightning's lineage begins in 1876 with the formation of Bowdish and Company. Bowdish quickly developed a reputation for building fine small steam launches, rowboats, canoes, and sailing canoes. In 1890 a young boatwright named George Smith joined the company. In 1893, Smith and his partner, James Ruth purchased Bowdish and Company and renamed it the Skaneateles Boat and Canoe Company. At ... catamaran gulet motorboat powerboat riverboat sailboat trimaran yacht