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Port Windows and Portlights
Life belowdecks needn't be dim and dismal. Let the sunlight in with new portlights and boat windows from Great Lakes Skipper. Our huge inventory of new and replacement boat parts includes boat windows, fixed portlights, opening portlights, portlights with screens, and marine portlights in a range of colors, shapes, and sizes. We carry boat portlights from Bomar, Gebo, Hi-Tide Manufacturing, Jim Black, Lewmar, Taylor-Made, Diamond Sea Glaze, and many more top brands. Check out our amazing discount prices - you'll love them!
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Portlight Replacement
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Over time, plastic portlights lose clarity. Polishing can't correct issues like crazing and discoloration. Sometimes pane replacement is the only solution.
Photo: Billy Black
Once you've established that your portlights need replacing, the first thing you need to do is find new ones. If your portlights are round, oval, or rectangular, chances are they're a catalog item originally supplied by a hatch-and-portlight manufacturer such as Beckson, Bomar, Gebo, Lewmar, Taylor, or Vetus. Even irregular portlights are often shared across a number of boat models and become available as off-the-shelf items. If your boat's manufacturer is still in business, their customer-service department can probably tell you who manufactured the original windows. Where an exact match isn't a requirement, locating the appropriate replacement can be as easy as taking a couple of measurements and surfing the Web.
If you find that your particular portlights aren't available as a standard item, the easiest and surely the least expensive option will be to select a standard portlight that requires a slightly larger opening in one or both dimensions. Enlarging an opening is typically just a matter of minor grinding or sawing, while reducing the size of the opening is a major glasswork project. Don't think you can make up the difference with extra sealant.
If you're intent on a perfect fit for an existing opening, and you're unable to locate a suitable catalog-item window, custom manufacture is an option. Check around for small manufacturers in your area or contact one of the big players in this market such as Bomon or Vetus. It's worth noting that many standard-size fixed portlights are also available in an opening version, often at a surprisingly small additional cost. If much of your boating happens in a hot climate, replacing fixed windows with portlights that open will deliver the additional benefit of improved cabin ventilation.
Ins And Outs Of Removal
Old portlights may be screwed, bolted, clamped, or glued in place. Where the flange and/or trim ring exhibits fastener heads (sometimes hidden under a flexible insert), remove these. Anticipate that the fasteners will be corroded in place, so be sure you use the largest available driver that mates perfectly with the fastener. A hand impact tool can be helpful in freeing old marine fasteners. Where the flange is sealed with a gasket, you should be able to separate it from the boat by gently prying with a stiff putty knife, using a second wedge behind to maintain the separation you gain as you work your way around the window. If sealant was used for the installation, you'll likely need to combine cutting with your prying. The best tool is a single-edge razor blade — in a holder initially, then not in a holder to allow deeper penetration. A carpet knife is a good and arguably safer option. The safest way to cut sealant is with leader wire or braided fishing line. Attach dowel handles to a 15-inch length of thin braided wire or line and saw this back and forth in your initial knife cut. Use shallow wedges behind the wire to allow deeper penetration. If, (and hopefully not), the seal is with polyurethane — 3M 5200 — you may need the chemical assistance of DeBond Marine Formula.
Illustrations: Paul Mirto
It's All In The Prep
With the old window out, you'll need to prepare the opening for the replacement. This is also the time to trace a pattern if you're having the replacement custom fabricated. Be aware that there are often substantial differences in port and starboard cutouts on the same boat, so don't assume that a single pattern will suffice for two or more seemingly identical portlights. Trace out and identify a pattern for each opening.
Start your preparation for the new portlight by removing every trace of gasket or sealant material. Scrape with a sharp plastic blade, then buff with a Scotchbrite pad, and finally block-sand with 180-grit paper. If the old sealant was silicone, you have an extra challenge because silicone leaves behind a residue that prevents new sealant, even new silicone, from adhering. With the silicone scraped away, but before sanding, wet contaminated surfaces with a xylene-saturated rag, then blot-wipe clean with paper towels, using lots of fresh paper towels to pick up rather than spread the contamination. Sand only after water misted onto the cleaned surface sheets rather than beads.
Examine the edge of the cutout for damage to a wood core, or to an interior wood liner, and make appropriate repairs. Fill unused fastener holes with a stiff epoxy paste. Don't be surprised to discover that the corner radii are crude or inaccurate. You can improve them with the same epoxy paste. Fair your filled holes and corner adjustments and you should be ready to install the portlights.
Nothing But Pane
Surface-mounted acrylic windows are common on sailboats and can be an economical option for any boat. This is simply a piece of clear acrylic larger than the opening and fastened directly to the cabin side. Overlap all around should be at least an inch, but if the acrylic has a dark tint, its size and shape can be dictated by appearance. No frame is used, but the outside edges of the plastic are typically rounded and polished. Closely spaced fasteners through oversize finishing washers around the perimeter used to make surface-mounted windows unattractive, and prone to cracking, but today's modern adhesives have given surface mounting a fresh lease.
Using black poster board to make patterns will provide a preview of the end appearance. You can have the plastic supplier cut the windows or fabricate them yourself. After appropriate cleaning, de-glossing, and masking or unmasking, the installation process is to apply double-sided VHB (very high bond) acrylic tape 1/2-inch wide by .091 thick (3M 4991) around the entire perimeter 1/2-inch in from the edge, then, taking great care with your alignment — there's no adjusting after the tape touches — press the window to the boat. Mask the pane edge and the boat 1/8-inch beyond the plastic and use a caulking gun to overfill the perimeter gap with Dow Corning 795 architectural-grade silicone sealant. Create a fillet with your fingertip, peel the mask, and your new window is installed.
Easy Install
Your specific installation should be guided by the instructions provided by the supplier of your new windows, so here you're going to find only supplemental guidance. Many modern portlights are sealed by a rubber gasket under the outside flange and clamped in place by screws through the inside flange. If the gasket has a seam, place it at the bottom of the window. The primary concern for gasket-sealed portlights is to make sure the mounting surface is flat. When you dry-fit the window (without the gasket), any gap around the perimeter of the flange must be less than 1/16-inch. You also want the window to slide into the opening without binding. Hole clearance all around of about 1/16-inch is ideal. Paying attention to these two requirements, follow the manufacturer's instruction for installation.
Some manufacturers will instruct you to seat the outside flange onto a bed of marine sealant, either to seal, or to bond, or both. You still need a flat mounting surface and a slip fit. For mechanically fastened portlights, the best bedding choice is butyl tape, a solid sealant that will not be ejected when you compress the flange against the boat.
Portlights to be bonded in place require the adhesive strength of a curing liquid sealant. To avoid squeezing out most of the sealant when you clamp or press the window in place, glue small spacers to the underside of the flange, one at each corner and additional ones as necessary to keep the span between them under 10 inches. Spacers should be 1/8-inch thick and perhaps 1/4-inch across, cut from any plastic or hard rubber and fixed in place with the sealant you're using to bed the flange.
Just before applying the sealant, always wipe both flange and boat with alcohol to remove oily contamination. You'll avoid the potential mess of bad aim if you apply your sealant only to the flange. A suction handle is a useful tool for positioning sealant-coated portlights.
Solid-sealant squeeze-out is easily trimmed away with a plastic blade, but you'll get a neater job with liquid sealant if you first mask both boat and flange edge. Masking the boat 1/8-inch beyond the flange trace line will allow you to shape the sealant into an attractive fillet with your finger (wetted in turpentine for the best effect). This permits removal of the tape before the sealant cures, which avoids problems that occur when the sealant cures to the tape.
If the window clamps in place with internal fasteners, tighten them evenly. Sealant must ooze out the entire perimeter of the portlight, so be sure you apply it liberally. You can wipe away excess, but if you apply too little, you must start all over. The spacers assure a uniform gasket. In addition to your clear view, your boat gets a facelift from this project. That makes it a buy-one-get-one-free deal. No coupon required.
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Don Casey has been one of the most consulted experts on boat care and upgrades for 30 years, and is one of the BoatUS Magazine's panel of experts. He and his wife cruise aboard their 30-footer part of the year in the eastern Caribbean. His books include Don Casey's Complete Illustrated Sailboat Maintenance Manual, and the recently updated This Old Boat, the bible for do-it-yourself boaters.
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New Found Metals
Selling high-quality hand-cast marine hardware since 1975..
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Why Buy From Us?
New Found Metals portlights are the best portlights you can buy and install. What makes NFM different from other suppliers of Port Windows? What makes us special?
First, our primary customer is you the individual, the sailor, the world cruiser, the yachtsman, and all hands on people like yourself.
Secondly, we answer the phone and we only sell direct so there is no dealer between you and our great support staff.
Our design, construction, and engineering reflect our listening and learning from you and your experiences since 1975. We know that preparing a boat for world cruising is no small undertaking.
Our Port Townsend staff is with you throughout the installation process with guidance and the tools you need to get the job done quickly and effectively. But don’t just ask us, ask the thousands of sailors these past thirty years who have successfully replaced old Portlights with NFM Portlights on boats from Able to Yorktown.
Explore our Portlights , Portlight Accessories , and Marine Hardware online, or download the Product Price List then call to order, (360) 385-3315.
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- We received the 5 X 12 Trimatrix Port yesterday....and I installed it today. WOW!! I really like the port, and my wife likes it too!! What is really great about it is the fact that it is a really good direct replacement for the Atkins Hoyle 5 X 12.... I only had to use your template to drill the holes for your port and notch out for the rain drains...and put the port in. Easy as could be!! We will be ordering a bunch more soon...a few at a time! Rob Homan
- Yesterday I finished the installation of the six new stainless ports I ordered from you. I am thrilled with the way it turned out. From day one when I purchased this boat I did not like the touch and feel nor the look of the plastic ports. The new ports are much more functional and easy to operate. They look like jewelry for the boat and really enhance her salty appearance. Thanks again for offering a great product. Lucian Jorg
- We are so happy that we went to New Found Metals and installed the portlights! We have installed 4 of the 8 portlights so far and they went in easily and look fantastic. What a great and helpful owner and company. We highly recommend the switch using New Found Metals. Kerry O'Brien La Fitte 44
- They've been great - my only regret is that I got the 3x11 portlights for the V-berth and the head; I'd be better off with 4x11 portlights Rick Westlake Bristol 29.9
- FYI they fit almost seamlessly just had to use a laminate trimmer to open the area for the spigot drain. Jim Burnett 1983 Nordic Tug
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Portlights for Sailboats & Power Yachts
The fight against mold and mildew is a constant battle on a boat - which is why proper cabin ventilation is so important. Keeping good airflow through your boat helps keep air from stagnating and producing too much moisture - a perfect home for all types of mold. At MAURIPRO Sailing we carry a wide variety of portlights for sailboats & power yachts to help keep your boat dry. We offer all the best brands, including Beckson, Lewmar and Vetus.
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Quality You Know
Locally Manufactured with our Highest Standard. Hatches and Ports, Marine Window Repair, Dinghy Davits, Marine Cranes, Hardtops and Arches. Made in North America. Direct from our factory machine shop to your boat.
In business for over 100 years, we manufacture the world's best Cast Hatches and Ports, Dinghy Davits, Marine Cranes, Arches and Hardtops. We also operate North America's most professional Hatch and Port Repair Facility and we have an extensive Parts Catalogue for many different brands. Our beautiful and robust products have provided decades of service for thousands of boat owners.
Founded in Toronto, Canada in 1921 as a foundry machine shop, our expertise in the marine industry is unmatched by the competition. The spirit of innovation was instilled into our business by our Grandfathers and is nurtured in our children. For five generations, we have excelled at crafting exceptional marine products. Our systems work safely and reliably, that's our guarantee. Our products are based on scientific investigation, real-world use and decades of experience. The results are Davits and Cranes, Hatches and Ports, Arches and Hardtops that perform and look great. We offer boaters the peace of mind that comes from owning well-engineered and expertly crafted marine equipment.
Atkins & Hoyle is the leading North American manufacturer of the highest quality marine products. Our portlights for sailboats, marine boat hatches, boat hardtops, yacht davits, sailboat davits, dinghy hoists and other dinghy lift systems and marine cranes are unmatched in the industry. Our stainless steel radar arch is modular and fully customizable, including being available in lightweight aluminum and becoming a davit arch allowing you to have a custom boat arch. We also specialize in marine window repair, including marine hatch and portlight repair; providing complete hatch and port refurbishment, supplying parts such as boat window seal replacement, hatch gaskets, acrylic lens replacement and supplying hard to find parts such as support rods, boat window screens and hatch springs.
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I have an Endeavour 35 sailboat out of production for some time. Its a testament to the quality of the hatches installed in 1983! This year I replaced some of the support hardware. Brian is great and guided me to what I needed to bring the hatches back into shape. Superior quality and customer support. What could be better? Thanks Atkins and Hoyle
I had been searching for a crane for my sport fishing boat for several months, when I came upon Atkins and Hoyle. From the start, Eric and Brian were extremely helpful in selecting the right product for my application. They made suggestions to me, which I did not even think about previously. Needless to say, they made the process of selecting, ordering and final receipt of their products a breeze! Furthermore, the quality of this crane far exceeded my expectations. I also must share that after receipt of the crane, I had installations issues, which they eagerly worked me through and I could not be more pleased. It's amazing when you can buy a product off the internet and the seller doesn't forget about you after the sale is made. You can't go wrong with Atkins and Hoyle. I recommend them highly and without reservation.
Atkins & Hoyle personal were very helpful in determining the model and specifications for 3 sailboat hatches that were at least 30 years old and even had parts/instructions on proper methods of resealing. I was very impressed for such old equipment. Thanks Again.
Outstanding product, used them from Lake Ontario to the Bahamas and back. Well built, great folks to talk to about your needs
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Atkins & Hoyle is a premier marine hatch and port manufacturer. With over 100 years of experience, we have the skills, tools and necessary expertise to bring your hatches and ports back to like-new condition. Let our experts refurbish your hatches and portlights.
If you have specific questions related to our services and product, here are all relevant answer to many common questions:
Why are Atkins & Hoyle designs different?
When we designed our products, we chose the best possible processes and materials to give you the strongest, lightest, and most easily mounted system.A system which would mount in a range different configurations. Our castings are our secret to sucess, and what sets us apart from ALL others. This design allows us to add strength where required and take out weight where it is not needed. As a fourth generation family business, the techniques we use were handed down generation after generation. Newer companies, and in fact all other system in the world use a bent / welded design; All Stainless will suffer a reduction in corrosion resistance because of welding. These davits cannot come close to the features Atkins & Hoyle has come to know as standard - customizable, durable, stronger, lighter, and more corrosion resistant. Our castings are 215-R1 Anodized, a process which hardens the surface and coats them with an Electrical Insulator; preventing Electrolysis due to disimilar metals
What does “safe working load” mean?
Our davits our rated to a safe working load that is well below their tested maximum capacity. This means that we test our davits beyond what we ultimately rate them at because we know that there is a lot of extra load when your boat is on the water. Make sure that any davit system that you are considering quotes only a safe working load and is not simply the useless “maximum capacity” that many other davit manufacturers use. Other manufacturers’ tubing is not stronger than ours, not only because the unique way that we produce our products, but in the fact that the wall is reduced during their bending process. Simply put, all other davit manufacturers overrate their products
If I have an angled transom or large swim platform, how do I get the extra reach that I need?
Atkins & Hoyle davits are fully adjustable, allowing you get the most reach that is possible with a davit system. This is accomplished with our innovative spline casting that locks our modular units after a one time adjustment, thus allowing you to tailor suit the height and reach for your particular boat. Our 1900 model can also have added length to the tubes if you require even more reach, up to 12 inches. Our systems also have the ability to hold the davit away from the rail or transom to give the maximum reach that you need.
Why does Atkins & Hoyle use an aluminum-magnesium alloy?
The conditions and forces that we expect our products to go trough demand that we use a super strong, super light alloy that will not corrode in salt water. The best alloy for these specifications is Almag 35, an aluminum-magnesium alloy. This non-ferrous, anti-corrosion metal alloy is perfectly suited to the marine industry because it is lighter stronger than ordinary aluminum. Almag 35 is the lightest, strongest and most corrosion resistant alloy for marine use available today. It provides a 40% elongation, meaning that instead of breaking, the davits are flexible, absorbing shock loads, it has a tensile strength 44000 lb. per square inch and is 20 % lighter than aluminum
What is the best lifting ratio for a davit?
We believe in providing the highest lifting ratio for our davits. All of davits have a MINIMUM 6:1 block and pulley system, most come standard with a 7:1 purchase. Our 750 lb. Model 5000 has a 12:1 system plus a 6.8:1 winch. All of these purchase systems are designed to give a maximum 30 lb. pull on the rope. This provides 100% safety advantage while other manufactures provide optional block systems that exceed the tolerance of their davit systems. This ensures that you have to expend the least amount energy as possible to secure your tender.
There is no rail on my transom; can I still mount rotating davits?
Yes, all of our davit systems can be mounted in a variety of ways. The universal base mount can be fitted to any angle so it can lie flat against your deck or transom in place of a rail mount.
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F-24 Portlight Replacement
The windows on our Corsair F-24 trimaran were obviously damaged by UV radiation. All we could see through them were shapes of objects that were very close to the windows. That’s what 20 years of exposure does to polycarbonate.
The real motivation to replace them came the day the window seal let go. I was sailing along in a building breeze and heard an odd flapping noise on one side, something like a halyard clanging against the mast, but at deck level. When I went to investigate, I found the front third of the 51-inch portlight was flapping back and forth like a reed, ready to rip off and fly away.
A careful application of duct tape—lots because the deck was wet—secured it for several hours until I reached harbor. There, I dried off the window, reapplied more tape, and planned for a replacement. It was early spring, so it would be months until the weather became warm enough to make a strong installation.
Plastic windows are light, strong and inexpensive. On boats we have two basic choices in glazing material. Acrylic is more UV resistant and lasts many times longer than polycarbonate. Polycarbonate, used in bullet-proof windows, is tougher per square inch, but acrylic is plenty strong—you just need to use thicker glazing in some applications. The chief difference between the two is UV resistance, where acrylic excels.
Eventually, exposure to UV rays damages any plastic, even acrylic, resulting in hazing and crazing within the plastic that no amount of polishing can remove. You can delay this with covers, but after 15-25 years, any clear plastic will likely need to be replaced.
The most common window failure is at the seal. They leak. Leaks can develop over years as sealants begin to fail. The force of thermal expansion accelerates the process. As materials expand and contract with temperature changes, the bond-line between the glazing and the frame is stressed and eventually opens.
In our experience, portlights longer than 30 inches, like those on our F-24 test boat, suffer disproportionately from premature leakage. On our boat, the port side window had begun leaking years before the starboard one let go. Noticing that the previous owner had tried to repair a leak at the forward section of the port window with hardware store silicone, I pumped DOW 795 adhesive sealant into the joint, and this kept the water out.
Then the starboard window peeled loose in dramatic fashion, also starting from the forward edge. It was obvious that my too-long windows were expanding and contracting at a rate that was destroying the seal. As a result, I chose to shorten the windows on our F-24 from 51 inches to about half that length.
This had the added benefit of allowing us to cut replacements from a 2’ x 4’ sheet of acrylic instead of a far more expensive 4’ x 8’ sheet. Conveniently, there was an existing column at the midpoint where the two new, smaller windows would join. We got quotes on having the replacements professionally cut to fit, but every quote exceeded $650, so I cut the panes myself. The 2’ x 4’ sheet was only $93; cutting took only a bit over an hour.
WINDOW MATERIALS
Polycarbonate and acrylic are both used for portlights, but not only does acrylic have much better UV resistance, it will remain clear twice as long. Both have similar strength and will not break due to water pressure or foot traffic if made of the proper thickness. However, Lexan has far greater toughness when struck with a hard object (an anchor, for example). This is because it has more elasticity, flexing more before it breaks.
Polycarbonate will block UV but acrylic does not, so we recommend tinting windows to prevent UV damage to the interior (see “ Hatch Tinting Test ,” PS March 2022). UV rays will also attack the sealant. If you need a clear window, polycarbonate might be a good choice, but you have to choose your sealant carefully, since the solvents can cause polycarbonate to craze (see “ The Right Caulk for Your Boat ,” PS December 2021).
CUTTING WINDOWS TO SHAPE
Glazing manufacturers have data sheets describing approved methods for cutting. Polycarbonate is easy to work with, but acrylic is slightly prone to cracking, so we suggest practicing on a piece of scrap first. We have cut rectangular windows using score-and snap plastic cutters. We then carefully round the corners with a sanding disc on an angle grinder. We’ve also cut plastic using a table saw and band saw—using a fine blade and feeding it slowly through the blade.
Perhaps the most user-friendly DIY method for cutting curved windows is using the fine cutting blade on an oscillating multitool. The Fein Multimaster tool was one of the first of this type, but there are many copycats today (see “ What’s in the Practical Sailor Toolbag ,” PS January 2012). Use the old window as a template. Make the cuts using multiple passes and light pressure to avoid melting the plastic. Leave the protective film on during the cutting process. This should remain in place as long as possible to avoid scratching and contamination.
A hole saw is best for larger round holes. Drill small round holes with a twist drill. For drilling acrylic, a sharp tip angle (60-90 degrees) is suggested to prevent grabbing and chipping. Common bits have tip angles of about 120 degrees, which you can carefully sharpen, but better to look for sharp-tip bits meant for cutting soft plastics. Clamping the work helps, as does moderate steady pressure and sometimes a dullish bit. Tight outside curves can be rounded with a sanding disc on an angle grinder, followed by smoothing with fine paper on an orbital sander.
Do not to cut the windows too big. The window must rest flat on VHB tape without touching the surrounding frame. A slight edge bevel (about ½ to 2⁄3 the thickness of the glazing) on the underside of the glazing provides more room for sealant and eliminates a stress riser for the sealant.
There is disagreement on using screws to fasten plastic glazing. Some claim these can lead to cracks in the corners, usually the result of thermal expansion. However, you can prevent cracking by drilling oversized holes. Do not countersink the holes, and when fastening the window, the screws should be snug, but not too tight.
Fasteners offer backup retention in the event of sealant failure. Placed in the corners, they are also convenient for attaching window covers, which protect the new windows from UV, scratches, and bird bombs. We used screws to fasten the windows on our previous test boat, a PDQ catamaran. The seals lasted for more than 20 years, so I was confident we could use them again on the F-24.
If you plan to use screws, pre-drill the glazing before it is bonded into place. You can drill the fastener holes in the frame to line up with these holes later.
INSTALLATION MATERIALS
Our choices of sealing materials are very specific and accepted throughout the industry. As much as I enjoy the search for more economical products, sealing window glazing is not a place to cut corners. The industry standard is to use 3M VHB (very high bonding) tape for sticking the window in place before sealing (see “Through-Bolt Alternatives”). The 5952 family of VHB is best for joining gelcoat to acrylic or polycarbonate. A tape thickness of 1-2 mm is best for providing room for the sealant and allowing thermal expansion.
In addition to the bonding tape, you’ll need a sealant. DOW 795 (DOW 791 in the United Kingdom) is the go-to silicone for structural window glazing. Other silicones do not bond as well, and the window can literally fall out.
Polyurethanes, including 3M 4200 and Sika 295, might seem like a good options, but PS testing and industry experience have found that UV light coming through the glazing eventually attacks the sealant at the bond surface. Many European boats use Sika 295, but they first paint the bond area of the glazing with Sika’s special opaque primer to prevent UV failure.
VHB tape requires an application temperature of 70°F-90°F. It will not bond properly in cool weather, and in very hot weather it will creep. Using space heaters to raise the ambient temperature seldom works. The DOW 795 sealant skims over too quickly in high temperatures and direct sun.
WINDOW REMOVAL
Before removing the old window, tape a tarp to the inside of the cabin. Lots of dirt and pieces of old sealant are going to fall in during the removal and cleaning process. My starboard window was loose and came off with the lightest encouragement from a putty knife. The port window required a much more aggressive approach, but eventually a pair of sharpened drywall knives did the trick. If the sealant is particularly stubborn, try a remover. We found Debond Marine Formula works well for removing all traces of silicone and Re-Mov is excellent for loosening polyurethane (see PS Tests Silicone and Adhesive Removers , PS January 2017). Slit along the bond line with a razor knife as deeply as possible, apply, and let soak for 10 minutes. Repeat.
After 20 years, the original VHB tape will have hardened into a concrete-like material. Neither a scraper or wire brush will be much help. But a heat gun will. The trick is to heat the adhesive enough to soften the tape residue, but not the gel coat. A slightly sharpened 1-inch wide putty knife is the best tool. Round the corners to prevent gouging and to make it easier to work the corners. A nice fat, comfortable wooden handle is best, and wear leather gloves for the heat. It took me four hours with the gun set on high and right in close, not counting breaks. This is the toughest part of the job.
CLEANING UP THE SURFACE
Remove any remaining silicone or polyurethane residue using the appropriate remover (see above) and a small wire brush. You can try solvents, but the removers are many times more effective and will result in less damage to the frame. Clean up the residue with a soapy washcloth, followed by several wipe downs with fresh water. You will also wipe down the surface with denatured alcohol just before applying the primer or VHB tape.
VHB TAPE PRIMER
If the surface is very smooth and non-porous, proceed directly with VHB tape. Old, porous gelcoat should be primed with 3M Tape Primer 94. It dries in less than 15 minutes and provides a slick, impermeable surface that will maximize VHB bonding. Extend the primer under the entire area that the sealant will cover. Do this shortly before applying the tape. Also, if you mask the perimeter of the frame at this time with 3M blue painter’s tape, you won’t have to tape again for the sealant step.
Unless you have used 3M’s primer, wipe the frame one last time with alcohol. Apply a ¾-inch strip of VHB tape around the inside rim of the frame. Trim as needed with a razor blade. Roll the tape firmly into place with its cover strip still in place. A fiberglass laminating roller or wallpaper seam roller works well. It takes several days for VHB tape to reach full strength, but after 20 minutes it will achieve a good bond.
Once the VHB tape touches the glazing it will grab the glazing. The window can’t be repositioned, and there are no second chances. Dry fit the glazing with the tape’s protective cover still in place. Place spacers around the perimeter of the frame to ensure perfect fit. These will help guide the window into a centered location. Short pieces of ¾ x 1/8-inch aluminum angle work well. We’ve also used popsicle sticks. You can tape your spacers in place if needed. The window may require trimming so that it sits flat on the VHB tape. An angle grinder with a 150-grit wheel works well for small adjustments.
Remove the red release strip from the VHB tape. Remove the inner protective film from the glazing and wipe the bonding edge with alcohol. For larger windows, you’ll want two people for fitting. Place one corner first, and then ease the window into place. Once in position, press firmly all around the perimeter several times, as you did for the tape. You don’t need a roller; palm pressure is sufficient.
Screws are optional. If you are installing screws for cover snaps or for retention, this is the time to drill the holes into the frame area. You could drill these holes later, but then the chips from the drill will land in the wet sealant. Drill either for #8 machine screws or #8 self-tapping screws.
Remove the spacers and mask the perimeter of the frame and glazing with 3M blue painter’s tape. (You should have already done this during the taping process.) Leave the outer protective film on the glazing and you will not need to mask it. Use a high-ratio caulking gun like the 26:1 JES M26S for better control (see “ Caulking Gun Shootout ,” PS August 2021). Pump the DOW 795 (DOW 791 in the UK) into the gap, filling the space from the VHB tape out to the surface. A 3/16-inch hole in the pump spout is about right. Wipe off any excess sealant and allow it to set for about 5-10 minutes. Do not continue wiping after the first pass; the sealant skins over rather quickly in warm weather, and any smoothing attempts now will just make it look worse. Avoid working in direct sun if possible, or at least avoid the middle of the day for this critical step.
Peel off the masking tape and protective film very carefully, before the sealant has skinned over. Do not allow the sealant to dry before peeling the tape.
Install the screws. No more than finger tight to avoid stressing the plastic. A cone of sealant under the head prevents leaks.
With care, your new windows should provide another twenty years of trouble-free service.
3M, www.3M.com
FEIN, www.fein.com
PLEXIGLAS, www.plexiglas.de
SABIC (LEXAN), www.sabic.com
SIKA, www.sika.com
SUNBRELLA, www.sunbrella.com
YKK, www.ykkfastening.com
F iberglass and plastic windows expand and contract at different rates. As the temperature swings from 20 ° F to 110 ° F in the sun, a window that is 1 meter long can theoretically expand in length by 1.5 mm. The materials used for installation (VHB tape and silicone) allow for that much movement, but it’s not good for them in the long run.
Of course, the actual movement is far less. If the window moves equally in all directions, that reduces the total distance by 50 percent. With any luck, you installed the window on 75 ° F day, reducing the maximum temperature swing to about 50 ° F. This reduces expansion to about 0.5 mm, still enough to strain any seal.
Shorter windows will expand less, so if you have windows that are more than 36 inches long, our advice is to limit them to 30 inches (0.76 meters). This reduces expansion to 0.38 mm or 0.015 inches (about 1/64-inch).
As a practical matter, what does this mean? Use the thicker 1⁄8-inch VHB tape for bonding the window in place; it adapts better to rough surfaces and has a greater range of motion. Make sure your beads of sealant are at least 1⁄8-inch wide. Beads that are 3 ⁄16-inch are better; the glazing should not be a tight fit in the opening. Drill oversized holes for any fasteners; ¼-inch is about right for #8 screws.
1. Our installation left plenty of room for thermal expansion at the corners. Getting a smooth finish on the DOW 795 is tricky. It helps to practice first.
2. We drilled oversized holes in the glazing so that the screws would not cause stress cracks.
B efore using 3M Very High Bond (VHB) tape to bond our acrylic windows in place, we had to remove the old tape. A scraper and a heat gun helped remove the old tape. Once the surface was clean and free of all tape residue, we applied 3 M Tape Primer 94 to ensure a good bond.
1. Keep the heat gun moving so as not to overheat the gelcoat.
2. We used a grooved laminating roller to firmly press down the tape and ensure a good bond.
3. A sharp box cutter was used to trim the tape to fit.
I f you like sewing, making your own window covers will be a cakewalk. But for those who aren’t adept at machine-stitching, you can create your own durable cover by gluing on a reinforced “hem.”
Cut the covers to size, adding about ¼-inch for every foot in length to allow for shrinkage. Also add about ½-inch all around to allow for trimming after you’ve glued on your reinforcing “hem” of material. Cut strips of 1½-inch wide canvas to match the length of each side of the cover, adding about 1-inch length in each strip for overlapping at the corners. This will be your hem.
Run a generous bead of sealant down each side on the inside of the cover. If possible, pick a sealant color that matches your cover. Because you will be trimming the hem and cover, the sealant should run about ½-inch inside the true size of the cover, or about 1-inch inside the pre-cut cover. Press the strips into the bead, plus a dab of sealant between them where they overlap in the corners. Roll the strips down firmly (a laminating roller works well), squeezing sealant across the full width of the strips. Allow to cure.
Use sharp scissors to trim the covers to size. The laminated canvas will now have a consistency something like the sidewall of a bicycle tire. It will not fray. There will be double layers of cloth down each side and three layers in each corner, creating a very strong location for the corner snaps. Punch the required holes for the snaps and install the snaps in the corners.
If your windows don’t have snaps and you don’t want to retrofit them with screw-in snaps, you can use self-adhesive snaps. YKK makes the best ones, under the name SNADs (SNap ADhesive mounted). Install the self-adhesive snaps about 1 to 2 inches outside the widow frame. They are available in both all-plastic and metal insert versions. They are mounted with 3M VHB tape, so if you take the same surface preparation and installation precautions you did for the window, they should be permanent. Cost is about $4 each.
1. Keeping the cover loose reduces strain on the snaps.
2. We put snaps at every corner and spaced them evenly along the sides, top and bottom. Not every screw was a snap.
3. Adhesive snaps like the YKK SNADs make it easy to retrofit windows with a snap-on cover.
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Bronze Opening Portlight - Oval, Blue Water
These heavy-duty solid bronze rectangular opening portlights feature stainless steel hinge pins, cast bronze knobs and 5/16" (8mm) tempered glass. High quality neoprene seals ensure a watertight fit. An insect screen is included. Finished in...
Bronze Opening Portlight - Rectangle, Blue Water
This heavy-duty solid bronze rectangular opening portlight features stainless steel hinge pins, cast bronze knobs and extra-thick 3/8" (10mm) tempered glass. High quality neoprene seals ensure a watertight fit. An insect screen is included...
Insect Screens for Opening Portlight - Rectangle
In some parts of the world bug screens are an absolute necessity to ensure comfort inside your boat while providing airflow. These quality bug screens are designed to suit our Bronze Opening Portlight - Rectangle. SKU Size 181111 Small 181114...
Insect Screens for Opening Portlight - Oval
In some parts of the world bug screens are an absolute necessity to ensure comfort inside your boat while providing airflow. These quality bug screens are designed to suit our Bronze Opening Portlight - Oval.
Bronze Opening Portlight - Rectangle
These solid bronze rectangular opening portlights features stainless steel hinge pins, cast bronze knobs and 1/4" tempered glass. High quality neoprene seals ensure a watertight fit. Finished in rumbled bronze (polished bronze finish available by...
Bronze Opening Portlight - Oval
This solid bronze oval opening portlight features stainless steel hinge pins, cast bronze knobs and 1/4" tempered glass. High quality neoprene seals ensure a watertight fit. Finished in rumbled bronze (polished bronze finish available by special...
Bronze Drip Cup
A new product from Davey & Co, these gunmetal bronze drip cups are for mounting below portholes to catch condensation. Slotted mounting holes means these drip catchers can be easily removed and emptied as needed. Available chrome plated (an...
Davey Round Fixed Deadlight
Heavy duty round fixed bronze portlights. Traditionally hand-made in England to the highest standard and CE marked for upper hull areas and cabin sides. Supplied with an outside finishing ring, they are fitted with toughened glass and have a...
Brass Portlight Frames - Round
Lightweight brass portlight frames. These brass rings have a polished finish and are ideal for boats used on enclosed waters or architectural use in buildings and homes looking for a nautical theme. Other uses for these brass rings include viewing...
Bronze Portlight - Oval Opening
Heavy duty oval opening bronze portlights with two closures for additional security. Traditionally hand-made in England to the highest standard and CE marked for upper hull areas and cabin sides. Supplied with outside finishing rings, they are...
Davey Bronze Portlight - Oval Fixed Deadlight
Heavy duty oval fixed bronze portlights. Traditionally hand-made in England to the highest standard and CE marked for upper hull areas and cabin sides. Supplied with outside finishing rings, they are fitted with toughened glass and have a polished...
Porthole Fly & Insect Screens (Davey)
These insect screens are manufactured from stainless steel mesh and have a flexible outer rim that holds them firmly in the bore of the portlight. As a simple push fit they are easily installed without tools and can be simply removed and...
Porthole - Round (with spigot & trim rings)
Australian-made opening round bronze port holes feature a deep spigot and trim ring. Available in polished or chrome-plated bronze. SKU Glass Diameter Flange Diameter Cut-Out Required Spigot Length 051811 3" (75mm) 6-1/4" (156mm) 4" (100mm) TBA...
Porthole - Round (without spigot)
These Australian-made opening round bronze port holes are without spigots. Available in polished or chrome-plated bronze. SKU Glass Diameter Flange Diameter Cut-Out Required 051801 3" (75mm) 6-3/4" (170mm) 4" (100mm) 051803 4" (100mm)...
Davey Bronze Round Opening Portlight (with spigot & trim ring)
Specially designed for the upper-hull areas, top-sides, cabin-sides and deck-houses, these traditionally hand-made round portholes (also known as portlights or scuttles) come complete with a matching bronze trim ring. The 8" & 12" portholes have two...
Bronze Windscreen Fittings - Chrome Plated
Solid cast bronze window frames suitable for wooden speed boats, launches and other vessels by Davey & Co. These beautifully finished windscreen fittings are supplied without glass. They can be adjusted to create a narrow or broader windshield...
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A portlight is usually a square or rectangular window on the exterior of the vessel. Depending on the window type, you may or may not open them. On the other hand, a porthole is typically a round window. It is smaller than the portlight. Although the shapes of both the windows are different, their installation process is similar. Plus, the components that come with these windows are generally the same. This is why you need to learn how to install any one of them.
When it comes to the installation process, you must know that it is pretty easy. All you need to do is to follow the steps mentioned below to replace your boat’s window. So, let’s discuss what you need to avoid and what you need to do to install a new window for your boat.
Step#1: Make a Template
The first thing you need to do is to make a template of your portlight. This will help you determine what size portlights you need for your boat. In this case, you need to trace the outline. Make sure to trace the porthole from the inside of your boat. For this purpose, you can use any paper that is easy to handle while you are tracing. Once you do that, you can inquire with Marine Depot Direct for a quote on custom size portlights that will fit your specific measurements.
Step#2: Check the Boat Window
Once you receive your portlight, make sure to verify the size of the window. There are low chances of any error if you have purchased it from Marine Depot Direct due to their extensive size confirmation process before ordering.
Step#3: Remove Screws
Now it’s time to start working. You need to remove the screws of your older portlight. It is important to understand that after removing the screws, the portlight will not come out easily.
Step#4: Cut the Caulk
You need to cut through the caulk seam by using a utility knife. In addition to that, you can use wooden wedges for removing the trim. Gently push the wooden piece in the corners of the trim so that they get stuck in it.
Step#5: Use Braided Wire
You need to use braided wire or guitar string to take out the window. Start inserting wire at the lower corner. Now pull it towards yourself with a back and forth motion. Now, loosen the exterior trim with the knife. You can again use wooden wedges for removing the trim. At this point, you can easily remove the interiors of the portlight. Make sure to remove both the interior and exteriors parts of your portlight.
Step#6: Scrape the Caulk
Once you remove the window, you will notice some elements and pieces resting on the hollow area of your boat. You need to scrape the caulk to clean the entire surface. Once you scrape out every tiny element, clean the area to ensure nothing is left on the surface.
Step#7: Test the fit
Many portlights come with the seal of a rubber gasket present at the outside flange. They are clamped in place with the help of screws present inside the flange. You also need to make sure that the mounting surface of the portlights is flat. When you fit the window, any gap around the flange is not more than 1/16 inch.
Step#8: Use the Sealant
Depending on your window, you need to seal the outside flange onto a bed of sealant. This helps you to seal or bond the window; in this case, an excellent bedding option for you is butyl tape. You also need to use liquid sealant for an even stronger hold. Place this sealant into the underside of the flange. But before applying the sealant and tape, make sure to wipe out the boat and flange from the alcohol to remove all the oily contamination. This will help you install the window accurately and without any error.
Step#9: Install the Window
It’s now time to install your new portlight. Make sure to apply the sealant as we have mentioned. Do this process slowly to avoid any problem in the process. If you think you will not be able to do this task correctly, you can take help from a professional at your local boat yard. But even if you have little experience maintaining your boat, this project is typically one you can do yourself.
Step#10: Remove the Sealant
When you place your window, you will notice sealant coming out from the sides of the window. This is the extra sealant that comes out when you push the window into the hole. Of course, it will not look appealing, and you need to remove it. You can easily trim away this sealant with a plastic blade. Gradually clean the entire squeezed-out material.
Many people use a lesser amount of sealant to avoid scrapping it off later. However, it’s not a great idea. If you do this, you can't fix your window accurately, and there will be a chance of water getting into your boat. This is why you should generously the sealant for your boat’s security and safety.
Bottom Line
Now, you have a better idea of the installation process of your boat window. Not to mention, you now know the procedure is easy, and you can do it in a single day. It is vital to keep in mind that you need to follow every step while replacing portholes or portlights if you want great end results. However, if you avoid any of the steps, you may face problems in the future, or experience damage soon after you install it.
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Bomar’s Flagship series of portlights includes our top-of-the-line stainless steel version. Designed to offer sleek attractive styling with the low-maintenance, rugged durability of stainless steel, these portlights ...
rectangular portlight OPAL RANGE
... Opal portlights also feature some unique benefits : - Perfect watertightness with a one-piece thick frame section and double contact seal system - One model only accepts an extensive range of wall thickness: 5 to ...
round portlight INFINITY
... made us become leaders in the production of flush portholes. Infinity can vanish from sight. It is inserted in line with the boat’s black windows and, looking from the outside at any yacht mounting them, Infinity disappears. Amare ...
round portlight
Our side scuttles can be permanent or openable (opening inwards or outwards) and come with a blind cover or deadlight as an option. We can fulfill all of our customers’ needs by offering a wide range of opening and fixed side scuttles, ...
round portlight Side
round portlight SFPP1-01
SEAFLO manufactures the toughest portholes, with a variety of sizes to fit an assortment of applications. We use an Anti-Aging, Ultraviolet-Resistant ABS Thermoplastic with robust reinforcement. Easy click-in construction, corrosion free ...
round portlight SFPP1-02
oval portlight SFPP series
round portlight 2406 series
Light alloy casting. Spigot 25 mm. Silver anodised. Mounting with outer ring. Locking with nylon knobs.
rectangular portlight
Nemo has produced a new range of portlights for boats over 24 metres. This range includes round, oval, elliptical and rectangular portholes for all types of luxury yachts and large ...
trapezoidal portlight 92-SERIES
... reliability over time. Version to be installed on fiberglass: this version of the porthole is intended for assembly on fiberglass without the use of sealant, the porthole is supplied with a particular ...
The porthole of the light series is characterized by a simple construction, the base is in polished 316 L stainless steel, the 10 mm scratch-resistant PMMA hatch is available in 3 smoky colors, the same is screwed through ...
rectangular portlight NORMAL
... mounting on boats complying with CE regulations (within 24 m). Different types of collars available Light in laminated glass or plastic and armor in polished stainless steel Closures with wing nut or lever Suitable ...
rectangular portlight 410
Using any of these dimensions will determine which Beckson Newport you have. The overall dimension is the trim ring or frame size. Please make sure to measure the length of the thru-hull portion with the lens closed to the edge of the ...
... the portlight is opened.. COLOR OF THE ACRYLIC As standard the portlight is being manufactured with grey smoke acrylic. Clear, bronze and green acrylic is available to special order. WATERTIGHT ...
oval portlight 04534
OVAL PORT-HOLE OPENING DESIGN Made of Inox and Plexiglas with fly screen.
rectangular portlight NOA-0030016
Bomar’s Acrylic Flush Mount Series Portlights pair functionality with unmatched style, featuring: Thick, heavy-duty, extruded acrylic frame Modern direct glaze to surface Easy, one-handed operation Opening & fixed ...
round portlight OMEGA series
Standard supplied with mosquito screen and hand-polished anodised finish. Easy operation and fixed opening positions. All portholes are supplied with inner frames for easy mounting and a professional finish. Small knobs ...
rectangular portlight INSIDE
The portlights 064th have an opening towards the inside of the boat . The use of composite and polymethyl makes them a high quality product, although with costs comparable to the old aluminum portlights . ...
rectangular portlight H654X Series
... rectangular portlights , rugged durability expressed in timeless styling A strong, sleekly styled portlight crafted to the highest standards from 316 stainless steel and high-strength tempered glass. Designed ...
... CTLSR LS-H,LSO-H,LSR-H,CLS-H,CLSO-H CLSR-H,LO,CLO Dimension:Small portlight Model Number 0512-088 Big portlight Model Number 1020-1228 Special dimension:If there is no portlight ...
round portlight SERIES 500
... protection and round portlights have been a standard for light and ventilation. Freeman Marine offers a selection of premium round portlights . PREMIUM PORTLIGHT DESIGN ...
rectangular portlight S11
Manufactured in primary aluminium, tempered glass or methacrylate. Sharp or rounded edges on the angles, R 60/70/100-150. The windows can be oxidised or painted in RAL colours. The windows can be: Fixed, 1/2 sliding, double sliding, vertically ...
Series 300 oval portholes, heavy duty, fixed and opening, made of AISI 316 L stainless steel and monolithic tempered glass 19 mm. Thick. Equipped with removable cover,opening holding arm, hold-open device for cover and magnetic sensor ...
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A boat portlight is a window installed in a vessel's hull. Its shape varies from model to model. Those offered on NauticExpo are intended for use on leisure craft. They are smaller and more aesthetic than those on commercial ships.
These devices are used primarily to provide natural light and, in the case of portlights that open, interior ventilation.
The frame is made of anodized aluminum or stainless steel. The pane is Plexiglas, which may be tinted. A neoprene seal ensures watertightness. Some swing open on hinges. There are round, oval, square, rectangular, flame-shaped, teardrop and other configurations. Certain models are screwed or bolted in place, while others are glued.
Try to use portlights of the same make or of similar design. Verify that they comply with the applicable regulations of your country.
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CloZures ® - When curtains and shades just don't work
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COMMENTS
Shop for your boat porthole now and save or browse our wide selection of marine cowl vents. Can't find what you're looking for? Let us help. 206-632-4462. Fisheries Supply carries an assortment of marine portlights and accessories to keep boat air flowing. Shop brands like Lewmar, Beckson, Vetus Denouden and more.
Our huge inventory of new and replacement boat parts includes boat windows, fixed portlights, opening portlights, portlights with screens, and marine portlights in a range of colors, shapes, and sizes. We carry boat portlights from Bomar, Gebo, Hi-Tide Manufacturing, Jim Black, Lewmar, Taylor-Made, Diamond Sea Glaze, and many more top brands.
A new installation Portlights are known to last a long time without much maintenance. Bomar Portlights . One of the most popular port light manufacturers, is Bomar. They have produced portlights for hundreds of boat manufacturers over the years. Bomar offers common replacement portlights and hatches in various frame and lens finishes. Boaters ...
If your portlights are round, oval, or rectangular, chances are they're a catalog item originally supplied by a hatch-and-portlight manufacturer such as Beckson, Bomar, Gebo, Lewmar, Taylor, or Vetus. Even irregular portlights are often shared across a number of boat models and become available as off-the-shelf items.
Lewmar's comprehensive range of hatches and portlights offers a solution, whether on a small day boat or superyacht. Combining years of manufacturing experience with the latest in design trends, the Hatch and Portlight Range bears all the features you have come to expect of a high-quality Lewmar product. Hatch & Portlight Guides.
But don't just ask us, ask the thousands of sailors these past thirty years who have successfully replaced old Portlights with NFM Portlights on boats from Able to Yorktown. Explore our Portlights, Portlight Accessories, and Marine Hardware online, or download the Product Price List then call to order, (360) 385-3315.
Live Chat. Store Locator. Explore our selection of boat hatches and portlights, including durable covers, screens, replacement lenses, and accessories. Ensure optimal ventilation and protection for your boat. Shop now for top-quality marine products.
We offer all the best brands, including Beckson, Lewmar and Vetus. MAURIPRO Sailing, your direct access to Portlights for Sailboats & Power Yachts and all your other sailing and boating needs. Shop Portlights for sailboats & Power Yachts at MAURIPRO Sailing Store. Complete selection, technical information and free shipping on orders over $99.
It is best to bed your new portlights in two stages. Put some tape across the face of the outside frame and the new pane to temporarily hold these together. Position this assembly in the opening and insert the fasteners. Inside the cabin, coat just the frame with a thick application of silicone sealant.
These portlights feature friction hinges that hold open at any position without stays or straps. Designed for easy installation, they require no complicated cutouts and include mounting hardware, trim, fly screens and instructions. Smoked gray acrylic lenses with white or ivory trim and clear-anodized aluminum frames. CE-certified.
Atkins & Hoyle is the leading North American manufacturer of the highest quality marine products. Our portlights for sailboats, marine boat hatches, boat hardtops, yacht davits, sailboat davits, dinghy hoists and other dinghy lift systems and marine cranes are unmatched in the industry. Our stainless steel radar arch is modular and fully ...
In our experience, portlights longer than 30 inches, like those on our F-24 test boat, suffer disproportionately from premature leakage. ... On our boat, the port side window had begun leaking years before the starboard one let go. Noticing that the previous owner had tried to repair a leak at the forward section of the port window with ...
Stainless LSR Round Portlight, 8" with 2" Straight Spigot. $728.82. Add to Cart. 1. 2. 3. Show. Discover our selection of Man Ship Stainless Portlights. Whether you're upgrading or simply installing new portlights you won't be disappointed with the quality of Man Ship Stainless Portlights.
Or, for that matter, drop-in replacement portlights for many of the thousands of boats built by long-defunct yards. From the 1980s onwards, most production boats were equipped with off-the-shelf portlights from one of a handful of manufacturers—for example Lewmar, Moonlight, Goiot and Bomar—and replacements for these are not hard to obtain ...
Let us help. 206-632-4462. Upgrade your boat with Beckson portlights or opening ports. Shop high-quality Beckson ports, marine portlights, and portlight parts for superior durability.
Aluminium Portlight for Sailboats - New Classic Series by Nemo. "New Classic" Aluminium Portlight for Sailboats. Portlights in silver anodised aluminium with a hinged clutch to hold the window open in any position, a neoprene sealing gasket, reinforced delrin handles and smoke grey plexiglass. MADE IN SILVER ANODISED ALUMINIUM OR PAINTED ON ...
Solid cast bronze window frames suitable for wooden speed boats, launches and other vessels by Davey & Co. These beautifully finished windscreen fittings are supplied without glass. They can be adjusted to create a narrow or broader windshield... $1,194.90. Choose Options. Classic Boat Supplies sells bronze marine portholes, portlights and ...
Step#1: Make a Template. The first thing you need to do is to make a template of your portlight. This will help you determine what size portlights you need for your boat. In this case, you need to trace the outline. Make sure to trace the porthole from the inside of your boat. For this purpose, you can use any paper that is easy to handle while ...
Browse VETUS for top-quality marine portlights. From ultra-slim to heavy-duty designs, our portlights offer perfect fit and style for any boat. Explore now! More than 60 years of experience Worldwide supplier 5 global warehouses 5 PLUS warranty. Corporate; Commercial; Products; Imperial Metric.
Find your boat portlight easily amongst the 117 products from the leading brands (Plastimo, Lewmar, Foresti & Suardi, ...) on NauticExpo, the boating and maritime industry specialist for your professional purchases. ... Nemo has produced a new range of portlights for boats over 24 metres. This range includes round, oval, ...
Or, for that matter, drop-in replacement portlights for many of the thousands of boats built by long-defunct yards. From the 1980s onwards, most production boats were equipped with off-the-shelf portlights from one of a handful of manufacturers—for example Lewmar, Moonlight, Goiot and Bomar—and replacements for these are not hard to obtain ...
Zarcor is a custom manufacturer of CloZures shutters and window treatments for sailboat portlights and hatches. Protects the interior from harmful UV rays. Phone: (800) 877-4797 ... They will make your boat feel cleaner and larger. The shutters offer 100% UV protection and will make your boat's interior 15 deg. cooler on a hot sunny day. ...
Shop the best selection of Portlights from West Marine. Visit for products, prices, deals and more! ... boat hatches & portlights portlights; Portlights . Close. Sort by. Filter Products Articles Portlights. Filter Results Sort: OFF ON. Pickup ...
Portlights: New opening portlights have been installed, enhancing ventilation and light in the cabins. These upgrades improve comfort and create a brighter, more inviting interior. Sails and Rigging: New sheets for genoa and main sail, new UV cover for genoa.