Practical Boat Owner
Tiller to wheel conversion: step by step
- David Harding
- December 18, 2023
If you have a tiller-steered boat and would rather have a wheel, how would you go about converting it? David Harding sees how it’s done to a Hanse 315
All the equipment you need for tiller to wheel conversion. Credit: David Harding Credit: David Harding
To many traditionalists and dyed-in-the-wool dinghy sailors, a wheel is something you only have when a boat becomes too big for a tiller.
Tillers are simple and direct: they give the best feel and precision, combined with an instant indication of how much helm the boat’s carrying.
Time was when tillers were the norm. A wheel would be fitted if the owner or builder preferred it or, more commonly, where the size or layout of the boat made a tiller impractical.
If, for example, you have a long, narrow-beamed boat, the tiller might take up a lot of length and the beam be insufficient to accommodate its arc.
Otherwise, why fit a wheel?
Tiller to wheel conversion kits are available and include the wheel, pedestal assembly (here with the output lever attached to the drive tube that runs down the middle of the pedestal), drag-link bar and stop-ring. Credit: David Harding
Why be stuck in the stern, away from the sheets and winches , far from the protection of the sprayhood and with a limited range of steering positions when, with a tiller, you can move around so much more easily, sit further forward and outboard more comfortably and have a better view of where you’re going?
In recent decades, however, tillers have fallen from favour.
An increasing number of people have started sailing in cruisers without having worked their way up from dinghies or keelboats.
Designed originally with tiller steering as standard, the Hanse 315 has a coaming that’s angled to give the helmsman a comfortable perch when the boat heels…
To many of them, a yacht isn’t a proper yacht unless it has a wheel. Besides, a wheel is easier to understand: turn it right to turn right.
That said, some performance yachts that could fit tillers choose to use wheels, and even some dinghy sailors like them. There are arguments both ways.
Whatever the reasons, the fact is that wheels are now being fitted to ever-smaller boats.
Any broker will tell you that some prospective customers won’t buy a second-hand boat over 30ft (9m) or so unless it has a wheel.
… while the tiller also allows him to sit well forward, close to the mainsheet and protected by the sprayhood. Credit: David Harding
Let’s take the Hanse 315 as an example to illustrate this trend.
When she was launched as the Hanse 311 in 2002, tiller steering came as standard. Only around 5% of buyers chose the optional wheel.
By the time the 311 was relaunched as the 315 a year or so later, the tiller/wheel split was 50/50.
Now, on the 325, it’s wheel only. That’s how dramatic the shift has been.
This insistence on wheels has presented a new challenge to brokers and those selling tiller-steered yachts of the size and type that are now built with wheels as standard: sometimes people won’t buy them unless they have a wheel.
Is your boat suitable for tiller to wheel conversion?
Not every boat lends itself to conversion. Jefa offers some useful guidance and measurements before you start.
These are for a rack-and-pinion steering system, which gives the most direct linkage.
If it won’t fit, you might be able to use cable steering with a quadrant.
Here’s a close-up of the output lever on the bottom of the drive tube, which is part of the tiller to wheel conversion kit. It will have to be removed and refitted later. Credit: David Harding
First, you need enough space between the cockpit seats for a wheel (whose centre will be 710mm/28in above the sole).
You will need at least 350mm (14in) of clear space abaft the wheel for the helm, and to allow another 180mm (7in) to the centre of the pedestal to get an idea of where it will go.
Beneath the cockpit sole – in the aft cabin or cockpit locker, for example – you need a depth of about 10-12cm (4-5in) and lateral space of 25cm (10in) to port or starboard of the centre of the pedestal.
The rudder tube only extends part way up, giving easy access to the stock. Credit: David Harding
You will also need to be able to fit the drag-link (link bar) between the rudder stock and the output lever that attaches beneath the pedestal.
Also check the rudder stock .
It needs to be accessible and, if it runs in a tube all the way up, you will have to drop the rudder, cut the tube and fit a splash- preventing gaiter because the tiller arm has to fit directly to the rudder stock.
The aft cabin of the Hanse 315 before the tiller to wheel conversaion began. Note the box moulded into the headliner to accommodate the wheel-steering conversion. Credit: David Harding
If you have a row of ticks in the appropriate boxes you should be able to go ahead.
On the Hanse 315 it was a straightforward job because the boat had been built to accept the conversion, as are a lot of boats built in the past 15 years or so.
The rudder tube stopped part way up the stock, the cockpit sole was reinforced and access presented no problems.
Tiller to wheel conversion: Marking and cutting
Credit: David Harding
1. The first job is to remove the now-redundant tiller.
2. Then it’s time for lots of measuring and masking. The aftermost blue tape marks the forward end of the stern seat…
3… from where 350mm is measured. That’s where the aft end of the wheel will be.
4. After more measuring and checking to make sure everything’s square and central…
5… the template for the holes to secure the pedestal is positioned temporarily and the holes are marked.
6. Time to start drilling – this is just a pilot hole for the centre of the pedestal…
7…before the 105mm (4in) hole saw is brought into action.
8. The panel has been cut out in the aft cabin and the hole in the cockpit sole appears
9. With the wheel fitted and the binnacle moulding removed from the top, the pedestal is put into position…
10… and lots more measurements are taken, checked and rechecked.
11. With the measurements confirmed as accurate, the template is taped into position on the cockpit sole.
12. With the pedestal removed, a few more measurements are triple-checked…
13… before the fixing holes for the pedestal are drilled
14. Thread-locking compound is used in the securing studs as they’re wound into the base of the pedestal…
15…which is placed into position for a moment to make sure everything fits.
16. The template and masking tape have done their job and can now be removed.
Fitting the pedestal
1. A mousing line is threaded through the conduit for the electrical cable that runs down inside the pedestal. Here we’re looking at the top.
2. Plenty of sealing compound is applied around the base and the fixing studs…
3… and then the pedestal, minus the wheel for ease of handling, is lowered into place for what should be the final time.
4. This is what it looks like from the aft cabin, with the drive tube protruding and the mousing line threaded through.
5. Next comes the stop-ring – a plate that incorporates the rudder stops…
6… and a degree scale so the correct offset angle can be achieved. This is to make sure the output lever (to be fitted on the bottom of the drive tube) and the tiller arm are set at the angle that gives the best mechanical advantage when they’re connected by the drag-link bar.
7. With the length of drag-link used here, the angle is 8°, so the ring is rotated accordingly before being tightened.
8. Now the output lever is fitted over the drive tube with the keyway.
9. Here the output lever is in its working position on the starboard side as we look aft to the rudder stock.
10. Fixing the drag-link to the output lever.
11. Its length adjusted (there’s about 100mm of adjustment), the drag-link is secured to the tiller arm.
12. The tiller arm, here secured to the rudder stock with pinch-bolts, has an inboard and an outboard position for the drag-link.
The tiller arm (left) on the rudder stock is longer than the output lever on the drive tube (right). Combined with the offset angle (B), this maximises mechanical advantage when the rudder is on full lock
Outboard gives lower gearing – more turns of the wheel to move the rudder.
Moving it in towards the stock gives higher gearing.
13. Back on deck, the electrical cabling can now be fed down through the conduit
Is tiller to wheel conversion a job for a practical boat owner?
On boats that, like the Hanse , were built with wheel steering in mind, conversion shouldn’t be a difficult job.
Most important is to measure, check and measure again before cutting or drilling.
With the instruments installed and a smart new wheel fitted the tiller to wheel conversion is complete. Credit: David Harding
Two pairs of hands make life much easier than just one: three is better still.
Continues below…
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If you’re converting a boat that wasn’t designed to have a wheel it’s going to be more complicated, but the suppliers of the steering system you choose should be able to offer advice and support for a DIY installation.
Facts and figures:
- Cost of the conversion kit: Around £3,433
- Tools needed: drills, hole saw (105mm/4in) spanners, Allen key, sealant , thread-lock, rulers, pencil, masking tape, tape measures, lights/torches
- Time taken: three hours for three people, plus the time to clear the cockpit locker and cut out the panel in the headliner .
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Converting from tiller to wheel
- Thread starter Richard D
- Start date 18 Aug 2011
- 18 Aug 2011
Maybe a daft question but I have seen a number of boats I would be interested in buying but they have tiller steering, is it possible to convert and if so any idea of a ball park cost, or is it something that can be done on some boats but not all.
Well-known member
It's usually possible, but I'd suggest not usually sensible. There are exceptions both ways. Why do you think you need a wheel? Even if you're not used to a tiller now, it doesn't take long to get used to it. Most boats designed with a tiller work far better that way, and would be awkward if retrofitted with a wheel. Pete
After having been on tiller boats the changing from side to side when tacking causes people to bang into each other and the till takes up a lot of room in the cockpit, again with people in the way if you have to whip the tiller across at short notice
AntarcticPilot
I think it would entirely depend on the vessel. For example, fitting wheel steering to a boat with a stern-hung rudder would, I imagine, be very difficult, and if achieved, would be very unsightly with steering gear exposed at the rudder head. In many cases, while possible, it might well impinge on storage or living space. For example, on the Moody 31 like my own, there was an option for wheel steering, but the drawback was that it took away some space in the aft cabin. If the boat is not designed for wheel steering, there may be a considerable engineering challenge in retro-fitting steering quadrants and so on. Personally I can't for the life of me imagine why you want wheel steering, unless the boat is either large enough to require the mechanical advantage of a wheel (in which case one will already be fitted), or has a centre cockpit and cannot accommodate a tiller. For me, a tiller allows far more direct contact with the boat, allowing me to "feel" the interaction of sails and sea in a way which wheel steering does not (in general). But, of course, opinions vary on this one!
minkysailing
The cost and solution of the conversion will depend on the model of yacht in question. Some of the more modern production yachts sub 34ft are available still in either tiller or wheel steered versions with the wheel steered version as the optional upgrade. For this reason a conversion to wheel steering can be quite straight forward as the boat is already designed for both systems. I recall project managing a conversion of a 2005 Dufour 34 performance from tiller to wheel steering. The conversion cost was around £1,200 if I recall with the owner arranging himself for the mainsheet track to be moved forward.
I've seen a few conversions and they didn't look nice ... As for cost - I would hazard a guess at a couple of grand - unless you were prepared to find all the bits cheaply and do the work yourself. I recognise the issue with tiller boats - crew changing from side2side does make an interesting shuffle during the tack and it requires a bit of prep to ensure a smooth transition. I don't think the tiller takes up too much room - certainly no more than a wheel - and tillers can usually be lifted out of the way when not in use. We moved from tiller to wheel and I mostly like the wheel - I don't like it when sailing to windward - as I'd prefer to helm from the coaming - and I just can't reach!
Active member
Lots of information here: http://www.edsonmarine.com/support/wheel_conversion/index.php
Richard D said: After having been on tiller boats the changing from side to side when tacking causes people to bang into each other and the till takes up a lot of room in the cockpit, again with people in the way if you have to whip the tiller across at short notice Click to expand...
fireball said: We moved from tiller to wheel and I mostly like the wheel - I don't like it when sailing to windward - as I'd prefer to helm from the coaming - and I just can't reach! Click to expand...
I went through all this for years, not wanting a tiller. The choice of craft available in my budget and my taste with wheel steering was limited. Mystere Flyer 26, S&S 34, etc... Eventually relented and got an attractive yacht with a tiller, very happy with my choice. She will be on the water next year. Howard
corinthmistral
biggest issue is usually attaching quadrant to rudder stock - most older boats designed for a tiller will have a fully sheathed rudder stock (to prevent water ingress). to fit a quadrant you need to cut out a section of the sheath and therefore need to fit a watertight seal. it can be done but can be extremely difficult, therefore costly if not doing it yourself. you also lose a lot of locker space (which could be an important factor on a smaller / sub 34' boat). also query whether you can fit the pedestal bolts and associated guide pulleys under the cockpit - again, on smaller boats the fuel tank is often located here with minumum clearance, and this can make it very difficult or impossible to fit without major alterations. we have gone from tiller (30' boat) to wheel (36' boat) - i prefer the wheel for sailing and actually prefer the tiller for manouvering in the marina. also, the tiller folded up against the backstay when moored whereas even with the wheel removed (it can be removed easily) you are still left with the pedestal. albeit larger boat = more cockpit room so not such an issue. had we had a wheel on our 30' boat we would have lost a lot of "sociable" cockpit room when not sailing.
corinthmistral said: biggest issue is usually attaching quadrant to rudder stock - most older boats designed for a tiller will have a fully sheathed rudder stock Click to expand...
Scotty_Tradewind
Converting from tiller to wheel....why? In many boats I'd prefer to convert the other way round. If you'r a cruiser why consider it? When going into heavy conditions on a cold dark night it's good to be under or near the hood to keep out of it. I've stood at a wheel at the back of a cockpit in the irish sea on a cold winters day wishing I'd taken up indoor bowls!
Scotty_Tradewind said: When going into heavy conditions on a cold dark night it's good to be under or near the hood to keep out of it. Click to expand...
fireball said: So - get a wheel and a good autopilot .... Click to expand...
Scotty_Tradewind said: What, when I have a Monitor? Click to expand...
I had an ST1000 on the previous boat - a 30'er ... wasn't fast enough for the job when there was any sea running ...
fireball said: I had an ST1000 on the previous boat - a 30'er ... wasn't fast enough for the job when there was any sea running ... Click to expand...
She was 3.5tonnes - so yes - probably a bit undersized - rarely used it as it just wasn't worth the hassle....
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 | | | Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on Cruisers Forums. | | 30-07-2017, 19:33 | | | | 27 that I'm thinking of converting from a tiller to a .
This a 70's so I'm looking to do this . Anybody know where to find what I need? | | | | | 30-07-2017, 20:05 | | Boat: Catalina 30 MKII
| specific and groups. I found one just googling "Catalina Forum". There's also Yahoo group and likely Facebook pages.
You might find somebody who wants to convert their to tiller. That would be a match made in heaven!
I have a 92 C30MKII that (pretty sure) came from the factory with an installed. I would imagine the same likely fits multiple , do you may want to see if you can find some used. That would address the "cheap" part.
No idea how much would be required to do the mod. The looks awfully neat on mine, so I suspect factory or dealer. | | | | | 30-07-2017, 20:12 | | Boat: Island Packet 38
| those things take up, and you can't just it out of the way either. | | | | | 30-07-2017, 21:57 | | Boat: Catalina 320
| to accommodate a large wheel and the size of the quadrant is also restricted you will not have the mechanical advantage required for wheel steering to work well. The Catalinas I've been aboard that have been converted in this manner took both hands to try and turn at the . Don't do it. | | | | | 31-07-2017, 08:52 | | Boat: None,build the one shown of glass, had many from 6' to 48'.
| | it out of the way either. | | 31-07-2017, 10:38 | | Boat: cal29
| from Grand River in Painesville to the Lake Erie Islands and back. The reason I converted was because the tiller, while underway, took up way too much room in the cockpit. When I would tack, everybody in the cockpit had to move. Yes, the tiller can be put up out of the way while in port, the pedestal stays in place taking up space. My concern about space and ease of movement in the cockpit isn't while sitting in port, it's while sailing. The ease of control and comfort, especially on a long trip, was wonderful. I'm not sure what Calif.Teds issue was that it took two people to turn at the . He must have had the pedestal brake on. A few of the legs were 5 to 6 hours w/o auto pilot, which I am installing next. It was challenging doing the install myself but well worth the effort.
As to the , I found t a few graveyards, online, that had pedestal units. I bought all my parts from Jon @ massmarine.com. I drove from Cleveland to Boston to pick everything up. I also bought a system, , stern rail, pedestal, wheel ,radial wheel and a few misc. items for under $3,000.
You will probably need a few other parts specific to your situation to complete the install and I would be more than happy to share this information with you. You can call me @ 216-392-2220 if you like. Ken | | | | | 31-07-2017, 10:42 | | Boat: Bristol 27
| | from Grand River in Painesville to the Lake Erie Islands and back. The reason I converted was because the tiller, while underway, took up way too much room in the cockpit. When I would tack, everybody in the cockpit had to move. | | 31-07-2017, 11:03 | | Boat: B31 Sirene
|
and
| | | | | 31-07-2017, 12:20 | | Boat: Catalina 30 MKII
| , your boat, and your mission - they may or not need to. With 5kts of on a Sunday sail, no one needs to move, the boat is flat.
Used to sail a J22 with a tiller. Part if the problem with tillers is that yes, people have to move, but unless they're trained and fairly agile, they can actually get in the way if the tiller. This is never a problem with wheel steering.
I can deal with either tiller or wheel. This boat came with a wheel, so I use a wheel. I'd never go through the cost and trouble of changing one to the other.
Last thought, wheel pedestals are great to mount on. With a tiller in a large cockpit, you'd either need to mount your displays way up on the back of the trunk, or pick a side and gave them be inconvenient on one tack or the other. | | | | | 31-07-2017, 12:36 | | Boat: None,build the one shown of glass, had many from 6' to 48'.
| | 31-07-2017, 12:45 | | Boat: Cal 20
| | . Anybody know where to find what I need? | | 31-07-2017, 12:45 | | Boat: Jeanneau 371
| on the and . With a wheel there is non. I say again "don't". | | | | | 01-08-2017, 10:25 | | Boat: Dufour Safari 27'
| Safari 27s, one with a tiller and one with a wheel (It was pure dumb luck that I ended up with these two boats). I like both. Each has their advantages and I like each for different reasons. As a few have noted, your usage will help to determine what is best, however it sounds like you have already made the decision. If possible, keep the tiller should you ever decide to return to the tiller or should you need an tiller.
A rough guild is that the wheel if better when cruising whereas the tiller gives you a better feel for what the boat is doing, provides more cockpit space when anchored or docked, and is better when .
If you are looking for parts, try craigslist, boat yards, and also look for abandoned or destroyed . Often times you can make a deal to strip a boat for parts. Good luck with your conversion. | | | | | Thread Tools | | | | Rate This Thread | :
| | Posting Rules | | post new threads post replies post attachments edit your posts is are code is are are are | | Similar Threads | | Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post | | | Flying Dog | Construction, Maintenance & Refit | 27 | 06-11-2018 13:45 | | For Sale: | Schonmatuous | Classifieds Archive | 3 | 16-01-2015 20:54 | | | Usagi | Construction, Maintenance & Refit | 6 | 07-07-2012 16:51 | | For Sale: | pettgroup | Classifieds Archive | 0 | 19-06-2012 08:13 | | | malbert73 | Construction, Maintenance & Refit | 6 | 21-01-2012 20:09 | Privacy Guaranteed - your email is never shared with anyone, opt out any time.  - CREATE AN ACCOUNT
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converting a tiller steer to steering wheel- Thread starter rem0h
- Start date Feb 19, 2004
- Feb 19, 2004
I have a 2000 25hp Mercury with electric start and shifter on the tiller handle. A dealer quoted me $1500 to convert to a steering wheel, remote starter button and shifter cables for the throttle and gear select. Does anyone know if there is a source for aftermarket parts for this? It can't be that hard to do. Oh yeah the engine is on an 18' john. Re: converting a tiller steer to steering wheel remOh,<br /> Yes this sounds high.Let's try to break it down in stages.You need a kit to remove the tiller handle,and install hardware to mount a steering cable to your motor.Now you need another kit to enable the shift cable and throttle cable to mount and work on the engine.A wiring harness needs to go up front,along with two control cables.Next needed is a control box to connect this to.Now we need a place to mount it.A steering cable would be nice,and connect it to a helm.Woops....where do we mount the helm...Oh yeah in the new console.Do we want a seat so we can operate from the new console?<br /> I'm not trying to be a wise *ss But I am thinking how I would go about doing your project.<br /> You might save something on aftermarket,BUT don't loose quality.<br /> DHP<br /><br /> oops,did I mention labor charges? Re: converting a tiller steer to steering wheel remHo<br />I would like to buy your tiller handle off of your 25 Merc. I am trying to convert my steering back the other way. If interested please email me at [email protected] Petty Officer 1st ClassRe: converting a tiller steer to steering wheel $1500 parts and labor? I'd go for it at that price. At our shop, we wouldn't touch a job like that (as DHP describes) for less than $2000 parts and labor.<br /><br />And again, you may do better pricing aftermarket, but I gotta agree with DHP, you will sacrafice quality. Be careful.<br /><br />Good luck! Free Ground Shipping for PowerKnobs and PowerWheels  - my account Sign in Register Gift Certificates
CD-i Geared Systems Edson’s classic Rack and Pinion system utilizes a simple, direct linkage from tiller to wheel. All CDi Geared Steerers feature exceptional feel, easy installation and a wide range of mounting options. - For boats up to 50’ (15.25m).
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- 1.8 Wheel Turns Hard-Over to Hard-Over through 72º of rudder travel.
- Gleason Coniflex ™ Gears for Ultra-High Strength.
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 Internal Snap Ring for CDi Systems Needle Bearing 3.25-inch Vision NV CD-i Pedestal - Tapered Shaft 464 CD-i Classic Series Pedestal - Tapered ShaftStainless Steel Internal Snap Ring replacement for CDi Geared Steering Systems. (Sold Individually) Specifications: Outside Dimension: 3.625" EB417 - CDi Steering System Installation Guide & Parts List - Manual... Edson's Needle Bearing (A-1636) for a CD-i (Cruising Design) steering system. (Sold Individually) Specifications: Inside Dimension: 3.250" Outside Dimension: 3.630" Edson's Vision NV CD-i Pedestal utilizes a simple, direct linkage from tiller to wheel. All CDi Geared Steerers feature exceptional feel, easy installation and a wide range of mounting options. Edson's #450-NV-T Pedestal is CE compliment... Edson's 464 CD-i Classic Series Pedestal utilizes a simple, direct linkage from tiller to wheel. All CDi Geared Steerers feature exceptional feel, easy installation and a wide range of mounting options. Edson's #464-6T Pedestal is CE... © 2024 Edson Marine All rights reserved. | Sitemap Sailing WhimsyAdventures on a classic Pearson 35 sailboat Sunday, April 9, 2017Wheel-to-tiller conversion.  | | | Steering wheel & pedestal restricts companionway. | | | | Sledge hammer and chisel used to remove steering pedestal | | | | Significant rot to be removed | | | | Repaired, filled and faired. | | | | Original steering mechanism | | | | Rudder post top, visible through the removed inspection port on the cockpit sole | | | | The socket-end of the old emergency tiller, showing corroded set screws | | | | Socket cleaned-up, with new set screws | | | | Below the cockpit sole: Rudder post extension fitted over the rudder shaft, held with set screws | | | | A PVC pipe slipped over the rudder post acted as a a temporary extension post |
| | | | I used several layers of 1707 fiberglass | | | Newly made rudder post shaft, waiting to be glassed onto the cockpit sole
| | | | Edson tiller head assembly | | | | Stuffing box goes over the rudder extension shaft, which was later trimmed down |  2 comments:Awesome article. I am considering converting to a tiller on a 79 Hunter 33. Thanks  - Forum Listing
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Wheel to tiller conversion possible? Is it possible to convert a boat with wheel steering to a tiller? Impossible? Does it depend on the boat?  sure you can just need to find out what is needed to make the change, post the year make model of the boat here and see if you can some idea from the SN members as to how to go about it, or there opinion at any rate Thanks. No specific boats yet, just wondering if it would rule any boats out when I'm looking. Converted my Crealock 37 from wheel to tiller a few months ago. Needed to drop the rudder and have an extension welded to it, a bearing added to where it emerges into the cockpit, and a few bits and pieces. Remove the wheel, quadrant, pedestal, etc. Move the engine controls from the pedestal, move the instruments from the pedestal. Marc Hall Crazy Fish - Maintaining, Upgrading and Sailing a Crealock 37  If you really want a boat with a tiller, you really should just only consider thew purchase of boats that have a tiller. For models/boat sizes usually equipped with a wheel, a version with a tiller will sell for a big discount. If you buy a boat with a wheel, you pay more going in, then lose a few thousands when you remove the wheel. Probably a bad way to do it. This is a good question and i thank you for asking it. I use to only look at wheel driven boats but now ive flipped to tiller. I like the simplicity i guesd. therondor owning a columbis 36 with a triller i wonder why you would want to change to a tiller don't get me wrong i love my tiller ,but it takes up a huge amount of room in the cockpit and if you plan to run with your rails in the water you better grow some arms as weather helm is purely leverage and wreslteing a 6 00 pound gorrilla for 5 or 6 hours is a tiring affair,infact hthis heai i am converting this to a wheel it will free up several feet of the cockpit with the relocation od the mainsail boom traveler to the top to the coach i will be able to use the the entire cockpit i'm hoping to find a bimini for the sun really burns me up,. howerve if it,s racing you are interested than a tiller might be your thing but for cruising i would have to recomend the wheel  A friend has an Ericson 33 that originally had a wheel and is now tiller steered. This boat's rudder stock has a top bushing and exposed shaft nearly at deck level so attaching the tiller was a simple matter. He does have a circular hump in the cockpit where the original pedestal hole has been covered with a gasketed plate, but generally it's not in the way of anything while sailing. The original quadrant is still on the stock below decks, but again not really in the way of anything. Wheel-to-tiller will obviously be less costly than going the other way, esp if you can sell the pedestal later on. Faster said: A friend has an Ericson 33 that originally had a wheel and is now tiller steered. This boat's rudder stock has a top bushing and exposed shaft nearly at deck level so attaching the tiller was a simple matter. He does have a circular hump in the cockpit where the original pedestal hole has been covered with a gasketed plate, but generally it's not in the way of anything while sailing. The original quadrant is still on the stock below decks, but again not really in the way of anything. Wheel-to-tiller will obviously be less costly than going the other way, esp if you can sell the pedestal later on. Click to expand...  A tiller really implies that the rudder is a 'balanced' design so that the forces needed for the tiller when the boat is at high speed is light or easy to move. A 'barn door' rudder, one that attached by 'hinges' to the end of a full keel or to a 'skeg' require a LOT of force to turn when the boat is at speed ... and functionally they are best turned with a 'wheel' that can generate a lot of mechanical advantage. For a tiller the 'best match' is a 'balanced' spade rudder, the worst match-up would be a 'barn door' 'hinged' or pintle hung rudder. If the rudder is 'balanced' then the tiller will only need 'finger tip' pressure to hold the boat on a straight course but if the rudder is not 'balanced' sometimes you'll need arms like Popeye to overcome the adverse helm pressure when 'steering'. RichH said: A tiller really implies that the rudder is a 'balanced' design so that the forces needed for the tiller when the boat is at high speed is light or easy to move. A 'barn door' rudder, one that attached by 'hinges' to the end of a full keel or to a 'skeg' require a LOT of force to turn when the boat is at speed ... and functionally they are best turned with a 'wheel' that can generate a lot of mechanical advantage. For a tiller the 'best match' is a 'balanced' spade rudder, the worst match-up would be a 'barn door' 'hinged' or pintle hung rudder. If the rudder is 'balanced' then the tiller will only need 'finger tip' pressure to hold the boat on a straight course but if the rudder is not 'balanced' sometimes you'll need arms like Popeye to overcome the adverse helm pressure when 'steering'. Click to expand...  ANYTHING is possible. It's just a matter of time and money. On some boats the conversion will be easy and inexpensive. On others it will be complicated and expensive. Personally, if I wanted a tiller-steered boat, I would either look for one that already has a tiller, one on which a tiller was an option, or one that originally came with a tiller and had been converted to wheel-steering by a previous owner.  I think it depends on what size boat you are looking for. If you are looking at sub 30' boats, you will find enough with tiller steering that you shouldn't bother shopping for boats with wheels and do a conversion. BTW, I like a tiller b/c when at port it lifts completely out of the way, and while sailing, I can steer and still just reach the companion way. Is it possible to get a steering wheel helm from just a Tiller? I am looking at getting a boat, but the ones I do like just have the tiller and I would like the option.  Jwood, you're better off starting a new thread. But yes, it can be done, depending on the boat. Whether you'd WANT to do it, and whether it's really a good idea for that boat, is another story. For example, on my 15' Albacore, a wheel wouldn't be a good idea. Many folks will tell you that you are better off keeping the tiller because of the increased "feel", ability to make rapid course corrections more easily, simplicity of the mechanics (less to break), ability to free up the cockpit while at the slip, etc. Start a new thread and ask the question again, and if you can, give us a feel for the size/type of boat you're considering. it's possible in any boat, the question is time and $$$money, it won't be easy Top Contributors this Month How To Convert A Tiller Outboard Motor To SteeringThings needed. Measuring tape Steering cable China marker 2-1/2-inch hole saw 1/4-inch drill bits Screwdriver Plastic cable ties White marine grease Torque wrench Petroleum jelly If the wheel doesn't turn the engine, disconnect the cable from the outboard and turn the wheel again. If the wheel turns freely, the problem lies in the outboard's swivel bracket. If the wheel doesn't turn freely, check the steering cable for kinks or turns too sharp to allow it to move freely. If there are no kinks, disconnect the cable from the helm and turn the wheel. If the wheel doesn't turn freely, replace the helm When you decide to convert the tiller steering on your outboard to helm-type steering with a steering wheel, the most important part of the project is testing. A boat's steering system must work correctly and easily every time. Once the installation and testing are complete, though, you can sit with your boating guests throughout the course of your outing. Measure the distance from the proposed wheel location to the side of the boat to the transom using a measuring tape. Add 6 inches to determine the length of steering cable required. Locate the template for the dash layout, found in the helm kit. Place the template where you want to install the steering wheel. Trace the hole perimeters of the template onto the dash, using a china marker. Drill the holes for the steering shaft and mounting bolt into the dash, using a 2-1/2-inch hole saw and drill bits, usually 1/4-inch unless otherwise specified. Slide the helm unit behind the dash so that the steering shaft points to the stern, or rear, of the boat. Push the helm into place under the dash so the steering shaft protrudes through the dash, and secure it in place with the screws provided in the kit and a screwdriver. Remove the screw from the end of the rack gear connection on the helm. Insert the screw through the end-bore of the steering cable. Install the steering cable along the boat's side as you route it to the transom. Secure the cable along the way with plastic cable ties. Direct the cable to the motor, and secure the cable to the corner loosely. Grease the end of the cable with white marine grease. Push the cable through the outboard's tilt tube — the tube on which the engine tilts up and down. Attach the end of the cable to the motor's steering arm or steering link rod. using the steering arm or link rod's bolt and lock nut. Tighten to 20 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Dip the sides of the small metal tab — called a key — into petroleum jelly, and place the key into its notch in the steering shaft that protrudes through the dash. Push the steering wheel onto the steering wheel shaft. Thread the nut onto the shaft, and tighten it to the torque recommended by the helm's manufacturer. Turn the wheel from side to side to ensure the steering wheel turns the outboard freely. Recommended - Forums New posts Unanswered threads Register Top Posts Email
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 Catalina 250 wheel to tiller conversion- Thread starter sebastko
- Start date Jun 27, 2022
- Tags catalina catalina 25 catalina 250 rudder tiller wheel
- Catalina Owner Forums
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 Stu Jacksonsebastko said: ...but the association forum doesn't let me in... :-| does anyone know if that association's web site and forum are still active? Click to expand sebastko said: Perhaps anyone knows a contact to one of the admins? Click to expand  I can read that whole thread without logging in. Here it is in pdf format: Attachments- Association Forum.pdf 347.1 KB Views: 98
I can read it too but cannot ask the follow-up question about the rudder. Thanks for help!  Don GuilletteI moved from a Macgregor 22 to a Catalina 25 with tiller steering, I considered converting to wheel but didn't and in my situation I'm glad I didn't. At the time I was working on the development of the Sail Trim Chart. I really needed to experience how the boat was responding to small sail trim control changes and you can't beat the "feel" of the boat you get with the tiller. To me, it is lost with the wheel. I almost wanted to convert my C30 to tiller. - This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. Accept Learn more…
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World class Quality, Handmade Sailboat Tillers. Buy direct from the manufacturer and save. Starting at only $119. World Wide shipping. Tiller covers, clutches and other accessories
Mar 28, 2011. #1. My husband wants to convert our 1978 Catalina 30 from a tiller to a wheel. The boat has always been lightly used and is in excellent condition. We are having a "discussion" about whether it would be worth spending the money for the conversion. He doesn't like to always be holding the tiller (we have an autopilot that has never ...
Credit: David Harding. First, you need enough space between the cockpit seats for a wheel (whose centre will be 710mm/28in above the sole). You will need at least 350mm (14in) of clear space abaft the wheel for the helm, and to allow another 180mm (7in) to the centre of the pedestal to get an idea of where it will go.
Tiller is logical on a full keeler with a transom-hung rudder for many reasons: mechanical simplicity, "feel" of sail helming, ease of putting in a tiller pilot vs. a wheel pilot (could be as simple as a bungee cord and some sort of clip, or could be a simple ram-type tiller pilot), space made in the cockpit at dock by simply putting the tiller ...
I suggest that the cheapest fix is to take some lessons in sail trim so that you will understand how to properly trim your sails in order to minimize weather helm. Installing a wheel in a boat this small is expensive ($2000-3500 depending on type of wheel system chosen) and can really hurt resale value. Jeff.
Catalina 27- 1984 Grapevine. Jul 7, 2013. #7. In a perfect world, where we all have perfect wives. When I went from tiller to wheel the change in my wife's sailing attitude was instantaneous, she now asks when WE are going out next. She loves the wheel, takes little physical effort, keeps her happy, I'm happy.
May 24, 2005. #13. Other advantages of a tiller. To convert to wheel you'll need to get under the cockpit floor to install a rudder quadrant, run the control cables, and thru-bolt the wheel binnacle to the cockpit floor. I'm sure your Allied 30 has an inboard right where all that access is needed.
Tiller to Wheel Conversion. I have a Seafarer 26 with tiller steering. There is a flat area designed for a pedestal. Can anyone give the pros and cons of making this conversion. Also does anyone have a serviceable steering system (no controls required) available for purchase. Located in the upper Chesapeake area.
I recall project managing a conversion of a 2005 Dufour 34 performance from tiller to wheel steering. The conversion cost was around £1,200 if I recall with the owner arranging himself for the mainsheet track to be moved forward. 18 Aug 2011 #6 F. ... we have gone from tiller (30' boat) to wheel (36' boat) - i prefer the wheel for sailing and ...
1. You can still get an autopilot for the tiller. 2. When the autopilot breaks, you can rig it up to self-steer by running the jib sheet to the tiller to balance the weather helm. 3. There's more control than a wheel, since you can go from hard over one way to hard over the other way in a split second 4.
Posts: 92. Re: Looking for a tiller to wheel conversion kit. I just, two weeks ago, converted my Cal29 from tiller to wheel, before embarking on a 9 day cruise from Grand River in Painesville to the Lake Erie Islands and back. The reason I converted was because the tiller, while underway, took up way too much room in the cockpit.
Re: converting a tiller steer to steering wheel remHo<br />I would like to buy your tiller handle off of your 25 Merc. I am trying to convert my steering back the other way. If interested please email me at [email protected]
Last spring I did a tiller to wheel conversion on my Catalina 27. If have found it to be great on several fronts. I did a Pull-pull cable conversion, and it doesn't use any pulleys. Edson has a bulletin on this conversion. I did not lose any "feeling" for the rudder. I can turn the boat faster when necessary, and also allow non sailors to come ...
LAHAKAI SAILING // ⛵️ S1 Ep8 // Join us in the latest episode of our boat restoration project, where we take on the challenge of converting our tiller to whe...
Our DIY Tiller steering conversion! We convert our Tayana 37 from wheel to tiller steering DIY, all in a free marina.This video was filmed in July 2019.SUBSC...
My boat was built with BOTH wheel and tiller steering, mostly for the Aries windvane. Like you suggest a sleeve over the rudder stock. There are 2 big bolt that go through the sleeve and stock. I have seen 2 other steel boats with this arrangement, one French and one I English I think. Think about the deck penetration a bit, you want to keep ...
Dec 10, 2012. #20. I think the idea of an edson steering pedestal/wheel, along with the push-pull cable is the best option. I've had an edson-steered boat for 25 years and never needed the backup tiller. I've got an edson pedestal and 24" wheel for sale $150. Check it out on their site. 1. 2.
Tiller-to-wheel conversion kits available. 360º Circular Rack Gear - 3 Times the Life Span of Conventional Rack Gears. 1.8 Wheel Turns Hard-Over to Hard-Over through 72º of rudder travel. Gleason Coniflex ™ Gears for Ultra-High Strength. Gear teeth easily accessible for lubrication and inspection.
Wheel-to-tiller conversion. The Pearson 35 is known for its unique wheel pedestal position, located forward in the cockpit rather than aft, almost pressing up against the companionway. This was because the Pearson 35 was originally designed as a yawl, since CCA racing rules back then didn't handicap or penalize a boat with a yawl rig.
Mar 9, 2007. #1. I am new at sailing last summer I purchased my first sail boat a 1984 Catalina 27 tiller steer. I am going to spend some of my tax return on the boat. I would love to hear from experienced sailors their thoughts of either a tiller raymaine ST 2000 autopilot $ 700 or converting to a Edson Wheel system $ 1700 I am leaning towards ...
Converted my Crealock 37 from wheel to tiller a few months ago. Needed to drop the rudder and have an extension welded to it, a bearing added to where it emerges into the cockpit, and a few bits and pieces. Remove the wheel, quadrant, pedestal, etc. Move the engine controls from the pedestal, move the instruments from the pedestal.
Step 5. Grease the end of the cable with white marine grease. Push the cable through the outboard's tilt tube -- the tube on which the engine tilts up and down. Attach the end of the cable to the motor's steering arm or steering link rod. using the steering arm or link rod's bolt and lock nut. Tighten to 20 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.
Jun 27, 2022. #1. Hi, I'm considering converting from wheel steering to a tiller (I had been considering that even before my steering system broke ) on my 1996 Catalina 250WB. One problem I'm anticipating is that the rudder seems to be designed to be locked in place by the steering system's tiller. Once the steering system is gone, the rudder ...