sailboat chain size

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Anchor Chain Sizing

Step 1 – Determine the length of your boat. The boat’s specification sheet, and sometimes the owner’s manual, will have your boat length listed. However, if you’re unsure of your boat length, measure the hull, from the tip of the bow to the center of the stern. Be certain to use a measuring tape that will not stretch, such as a steel tape. Also, do not include the bowsprit or any other fittings that may have been added to the hull.

Step 2 – Determine the weight of your boat. Again, the boat’s specification sheet, and sometimes the owner’s manual, will list the dry weight of the boat. If you’re still unsure of the weight of your boat, you can use a weigh station at a local truck stop. Just be certain to subtract the weight of your boat trailer

Step 3 – Determine what your desired maximum anchorage depth is.

Step 4 – Determine the diameter of chain to use. Use the following chart to determine the minimum diameter of chain to use for your boat.

Step 5 – Determine the length of chain to use. Your total “anchor rode” (the nylon rope and chain combined connecting the anchor to the boat) should be between four and seven times the expected anchorage depth, depending on how crowded the anchorage. More crowded anchorage sites typically mean using a shorter rode, because boats don’t have as much room to swing.

To determine the chain portion of the rode, again refer to the length of your hull. Your chain should be no shorter than the length of your boat, as the chain’s weight will help set the anchor.

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The Ultimate Guide To Anchors And Anchor Chain

You may have seen it already over July 4th weekend: a boater going for his/her ground tackle in a hurry only to be stopped by knots, tangles, or an anchor that is not connected properly.

Embarrassment and inconvenience aside, mismanagement of your anchoring system has the potential to cause serious damage. Besides the obvious use of anchoring up at the sandbar, an anchor also serves as an emergency brake. When you need it, you need it right away, and it must work for you.   Failure is a dangerous non-option, so in these two articles we will discuss how to keep you safe and your “e-brake” in working order.

What makes up your anchoring system?

Let’s start with what should be a refresher for most of us: some anchoring system terms. These terms are part of the vocabulary we need for discussing anchors. We will also highlight the components of the anchoring system and share tips and rules of thumb to help with anchoring product selection and best practices.

The length of galvanized metal links used to connect the anchor to the rode. The most common chain coil is BBB rated with thicker, shorter links that are stronger than standard proof chain. Chain is used for its weight and chafe protection. The chain helps the anchor to set and the rode to lie horizontally.

The long length of nylon rope with an eye splice and thimble which is attached to the anchor chain.

Anchor line comes in three-strand, braided, or 8-plait styles. The three-strand variety is popular with boaters because it absorbs shock better than braided and is less likely to fray or get cut on rocks or jagged bottoms.

Anchor line is available in various diameters and lengths depending on your boat. The larger the boat, the wider and longer the anchor line required. There are many options to consider when picking your anchor rope.

The anchor line and anchor chain combined.

Anchor Shackle

The metal load-bearing connector between the anchor chain and the anchor.

Choose a high-quality shackle that can withstand stress. Hot dip galvanized metal shackles are the most sturdy and durable.

A pivoting metal connector that some boaters install next to the anchor shackle.

Swivels are designed to release the twist in the anchor chain as it comes onboard so it will flake into the locker more easily and be ready to redeploy rapidly. Swivels are a hotly debated topic among boaters due to the potential for catastrophic failure of the swivel under high loads.

An additional length of line attached to the anchor chain and deck mooring hardware.

Snubbers help absorb shock while anchored in swells or high-wake areas. This takes strain off the windlass and deck. Snubbers are commonly used on boats deploying all-chain rodes.

Ground Tackle

All anchoring related equipment including the anchor, anchor chain, anchor line, shackles, and connectors.

The ratio of the length of anchor rode deployed to the vertical distance between the sea floor and the point where your anchor rode comes on board.

Aim for a 5:1 scope ratio minimum, although a 7:1 ratio is preferable given the room. The lower the ratio, the greater the chance your anchor may drag.

Holding power

The amount of pull force an anchor can withstand while remaining set.

Holding power is expressed in pounds and can be measured with a strain gauge. Heaver anchors and anchors with large fluke areas tend to have higher holding power.

Metal weight of any kind that is attached at some point along your anchor rode.

This ballast weight is also known as an anchor buddy/rider/chum/angel. The weight of the kellet used depends on the size of the boat. Kellets are a controversial and debated solution designed to help anchors set and avoid dragging as well as to dampen the surge from swells or wake.

The curve of the anchor rode between the boat and the anchor.

A low angle of pull on the anchor maintains the catenary curve and provides energy absorption. Due to their weight, chain rodes have good catenary curves in light to medium winds, however in strong winds, the chain goes taut and loses its curve, offering no energy absorption.

Setting The Hook: Things To Consider When Selecting An Anchor

With all the anchoring system components fresh in our minds, it is time to apply them and select the right anchor . Three variables to consider during anchor selection are:

As a rule, your anchor chain should be at least as long as your boat, but no shorter than 10 to 15-feet. Your anchor line length will depend on anchoring depth. If you will be anchoring in deeper water, you will need enough rode to achieve a proper scope ratio. The rule of thumb is to plan 8-feet of line per 1-foot of anchoring depth.

Where you anchor makes a difference. What are the currents, winds, and tides like? Will you be anchoring in protected waters? Select your anchoring equipment based on the type of locations and conditions in which you will be deploying your anchor.

Do you have a clean bottom?   What does your bottom surface consist of?   This determines not only holding power but also what anchor works best for the bottom you are anchoring in. Some anchors like a pivoting-fluke or non-hinged scoop do well in sand while others with broad flukes are best in mud. Consider a plow-shaped or grapnel anchor to dig into rocky bottoms and a heavy anchor for difficult shale, clay, and grass bottoms.

Anchor Types and Uses

Anchors come in six different types, and as we learned, the best anchor for you will depend on your boat, your location, and the sea bottom. Whichever type of anchor you choose, ensure you consult manufacturer guidelines to select an anchor weight that is heavy enough for your boat. The six types of anchors are:

Three claws help the claw or Bruce anchor dig into most types of bottoms, including rock. Note that you need a heavier anchor for your boat size to get a good set. The lower price of a claw anchor makes it a common choice with recreational boaters.

Danforth/Fluke

Pivoting flukes help this anchor bury itself in soft bottoms with grass or mud. A Danforth, or fluke type of anchor stows flat and is often used in smaller boats where space is at a premium.

The fixed upright flukes of the grapnel dig into many bottom types and offer a better hold than a standard fluke anchor in harder bottoms. A light version of a grapnel anchor can be a good choice for smaller boats.

The rounded bottom of a mushroom anchor simply rests on the seabed, making it best for small craft, canoes, and kayaks in waters with flat, even sea bottoms.

The sharp point of a plow anchor digs into rocky bottoms or those covered in grass and weeds. Plow anchors may also be called CQRs or wing anchors. They are common on larger boats that are anchoring in varying conditions and types of sea bottoms.

The newest anchor type – the scoop – works in many bottom types and has high holding power. Scoop anchors are designed to be easier to set and reset than other anchor types. Scoops are available in Rocna, Spade, or Manson configurations.

Most Common Anchoring Mistakes

Time to learn from others’ mishaps. Watch out for these common errors that boaters make when selecting or deploying their anchoring system:

• Not securing the bitter end of the anchor line – usually seen on smaller day cruisers
• Improperly sized anchor for size of boat or conditions
• Wrong anchor for sea bottom
• Not enough scope
• Not enough chain

The Takeaways

Your boat’s anchoring system is like the emergency brake on a vehicle. When you need it, you can’t afford for it to fail. Set yourself up for anchoring success by outfitting your boat with the proper anchor, rode, and other components for the boat size, boating location, and type of sea bottom you expect to anchor in.

When you get ready to anchor, confirm your anchor line is properly secured to the boat and set with sufficient scope so the anchor won’t drag. Following these basic guidelines will help ensure your time on the water is as safe as possible.

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Chain size and length, explained

Posted by Dave on Apr 25th 2023

There are two key chain measurements that you must know in order to replace your chain: length and size. Both are straightforward. "Size" refers to the pitch (length) and width of each link. There are two common chain sizes that likely cover everyone: #50 and #60. These sizes refer to ANSI (American National Standards Institute) Roller Chain Standard chain dimensions. #50 chain has a 5/8" pitch (measure from center of one roller link to another) and a width of 3/8" between links (measured inside the chain). #60 chain has a 3/4" pitch and a .5" width. These two dimensions are called out as "P" and "B1" in the photo below. Your boat is set up for either one of these, that's the size that fits on your pedestal's sprocket, and that's the size you need.

Edson's chain kits , and chain and wire kits , are sold with 1.5', 2', and 2.5' chain lengths. The way we measure chain is overall length, without attachment hardware - no master links, no shackles, no nothing. This isn't really the most precise engineering way to measure it, which would be counting the number of pitches, but it absolutely gets us close enough. People often call and say "I need a 26" chain" but really they have a 24" chain with master links on either end (master links look like the right-most link in the chain pictured above, with the clevis pins).

Chain length is dictated by the chain travel, which is the distance that your chain moves while turning the wheel from hard over to hard over. Another factor in chain length is the degrees of rudder turning, but in almost all cases this is 72* (36* in each direction), so we’ll treat that as a constant. Chain travel is a total distance, so if a boat has 12" of chain travel, that means the chain moves 12" from hard over to hard over.

If a boat has 12" of chain travel, the chain needs to go 6" up to turn from straight ahead to hard over in one direction, and 6" down to turn from straight ahead to hard over in the other direction. So long as the chain is long enough to do that, it's long enough.* Since the chain must ride over the sprocket, which in a typical 11 tooth sprocket takes about 3.5", we need to add that to a 12" chain to have the minimum usable chain length.

In all of our standard pedestals, and in the huge majority of pedestals in general, the steerer shaft is 28" above the cockpit floor. This means that the chain has room to go 14" up and 14" down, which means a 28" chain plus the length needed to go over the sprocket (typically 3.5") is the maximum length that will work in a standard pedestal. A 30" chain, which accommodates about a 27" chain travel, is the longest chain that will work in a standard pedestal. These minimums and maximums correspond nicely with our standard chain lengths.

We’ll discuss helm loading in another post, but the big variable driving chain travel is radial or quadrant size (radius). The bigger that radius, the longer the chain travel. Almost all of the quadrants and radials we sell have a radius between 6.5” and 14”. Basically, the larger the boat, the bigger the radius. Across this range of radii, the chain travel varies from 8” on a 6.5” quadrant/radial to 17.6” on a 14” quadrant/radial (see table above). Since a 24” chain is not too long to work in a standard pedestal, and the 17.6” chain travel is easily accommodated by the 24” chain length, most boats can happily use a 24” chain.

There are exceptions to this, but they're unusual.

*This assumes the chain is centered on the sprocket, as per this po st. If the chain is off center, it decreases the available chain travel in both directions.

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These are the five basic choices that you need to make to determine the optimum anchor chain for your individual requirements.

• Hot Dip Galvanised or Stainless Steel
• Grade (strength)
• Chain Size and Calibration
• Chain Manufacturer

Galvanised or Stainless Steel?

Hot dip galvanised.

Hot Dip Galvanising was developed over 50 years ago and is still the most prevalent finish for anchors and chains for motor and sailing yachts.

Hot Dip Galvanising is not just a surface treatment. Hot Dipping in molten zinc forms a multi-layered, deep-seated fusion with the steel, which means that the natural abrasion caused by anchoring will only have a gradual effect.

However, all galvanising will eventually go rusty. In fact, rust stains will likely appear immediately after introducing your brand new shiny galvanised chain into a wet, salty, or potentially contaminated environment, e.g. your chain locker.

More in-depth information on galvanising treatment and what to expect from your chain is covered in these articles: How Does Galvanising Work?

Galvanising - Managing your Expectations

If you want your anchor to look pristine on the bow roller and your chain spotlessly blemish-free on deck or in the chain locker, then a high-grade stainless may be your best choice.

Stainless Steel

Stainless steel calibrated anchor chain is available in G3 and G4, around three times the price of galvanised Grade 40.

Grade 6 and Grade 6+ offer supreme quality in stainless steel anchor chain, with the added option of an electro-polished finish to provide the ultimate resistance to marine degradation.

Staining can occur on stainless steel, despite the name, but this can be removed with a specialist cleaning agent – this is very simple to use and does not require any drying or polishing.

The smoother, slippier finish of stainless steel chain may help dispersal in the chain locker compared with the grippier surface of galvanised chain.

Mix and Match

Galvanised and stainless steel are commonly joined together in your anchoring system, but you should remember there may be a galvanic reaction between the two. This is not necessarily a problem, but it is a good idea to have an understanding of what can happen over a period of time.

Further information on the effect of mixing your steels: Galvanic reaction between stainless and galvanised

What Grade of Chain do I require?

The Grade dictates the linear strength of the steel and, correspondingly, the break load of the chain.

Grades are comparable between mild and stainless steel, although stainless is generally expressed with a simple G as a prefix rather than Grade, e.g. G4 equates to Grade 40 Galvanised chain is generally available in Grade 30, Grade 40, and Grade 70.

Jimmy Green Marine doesn’t stock G3 or Grade 30, opting for the higher break load Grades 40 and 70 for motor and sailing yacht anchoring.

Stainless is available from Jimmy Green in G4 and the higher grades G6 and G6+.

Jimmy Green Marine has compiled a Chain Break Load Comparison Chart for all our chains.

A general comparison between generic Grade 30 and Grade 40 is also included.

It is worth noting that cases of chain failing are extremely rare but worth avoiding because a disastrous breakage may occur during severe weather. Failure is much more likely to happen at the connection point between the anchor and the chain. It is always recommended to employ a manufacturer break load-rated solution, and this article covers the subject in greater depth: Anchor to Chain Connection Guide

What Size and Calibration of Chain do I need?

This depends on the grade you choose, your yacht length, windage, and displacement, your anticipated cruising plans, and your corresponding reliance on anchoring. In Europe, we have metric sizing in 1mm or 2mm increments, e.g. 6mm, 7mm, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 14mm. This article explains how to establish the correct chain size for your requirements, with a benchmark guide in a clear table format: Anchor Rode Size Guide

Chain Calibration

There are two main calibrations of anchor chains in Europe: DIN766 and ISO4565.

Calibrated means that every link is guaranteed to be the same length and size within a certain tolerance.

This is extremely important if you have a windlass. The chain calibration needs to be compatible with the windlass gypsy.

There is more reading on Calibration: Calibrated Anchor Chain General InformatioN in our Knowledge Centre  how to find out which calibration you need: What is the correct calibration?

How long should my Anchor Chain be?

The total length of your rode will depend on the depth of water that you anticipate encountering on your cruises.

An Anchor Rode can be a rope and chain combination, varying in proportion according to your needs, or all chain.

The choice ranges from these two examples:

A long warp and a short chain for those who still haul in the rode by hand or for relatively light load applications, e.g. a kedge anchor, especially an aluminium anchor or a ‘lunch hook.’

In this case, the chain may only be around 5 metres

All chain for extended cruising where reliance on anchoring is paramount.

A very good case can be made to compromise between the two, especially where weight or space in the chain locker is limited.

Another option is a short piece of warp at the bitter end of a long chain length. This provides a degree of elasticity should all the chain be required in extremis and a neat means of attachment in the chain locker.

Generally speaking, the chain lengths we supply for extended cruising are getting longer. A total rode length of 80 metres is now quite the norm, with 100 metres becoming increasingly popular. Recently, the trend has been as long as 120 metres. 

There are traditional ‘rules of thumb’ for calculating the length of rode as a multiple factor of the sea depth, but they don’t work well for very shallow or deep water. They are also a little outdated with the popularity of bigger yachts and ocean passage-making.

The main parameters for deciding on the overall length are covered in the anchor rode size article (link above), but there are also more insights into the decision-making process in this article: Anchoring System Assessment

How do I choose between Chain Manufacturers?

Trust in the brand.

The first principle in the selection process is to purchase a recognised brand.

Provenance will be important for your peace of mind when relying on your anchor chain to ride out inclement weather conditions.

Calibrated anchor chain for the European Marine Industry is generally manufactured in Europe or the Far East.

Unfortunately, there are no calibrated anchor chain manufacturers in the UK, only importers or former manufacturers who now only import their chain.

There is a stigma regarding manufacturing in the Far East, but the truth is that many of the world-recognised UK and European manufacturer brands in the leisure marine industry have their products manufactured all over the world and import them from far afield. This list is not exhaustive and doesn’t relate exclusively to chain, but it is indicative of some of the countries where manufacturing costs are/have been traditionally lower than the UK/Europe: China, Thailand, India, Brazil, and Turkey. However, the huge increase in transportation costs caused by the pandemic has certainly eroded a proportion of that saving.

The respectability, credibility, and trustworthiness of the manufacturer brand are extremely important, but the same is also true of your chosen retailer because if there is an issue with your purchase, you will be dependent on them both to be supportive.

For example, it is widely known that although the Rocna anchor is made in China, the quality is consistently good. The quality control and any necessary support are upheld by the ‘brand’ and through the network of their distributors.

The Titan brand is upheld by CMP, the manufacturers of both Titan chain and the Rocna anchor.

Please note that you don’t need to match your chain to your windlass by manufacturer because it is the calibration that is all important, but if you don’t have any other preference, it may make reasonable sense, e.g. Lofrans, world-renowned for the quality of their windlasses manufactured in their factory in Italy. N.B. Lofrans chain is manufactured in China, just like Titan.

If you prefer to buy your chain that is manufactured in Europe, MF Catenificio is leading the way in terms of innovation with their Solid Zinc duplex Hot Dip Galvanising process. MF manufacture their chain in Italy.

All our chain comes with a test certificate. A copy of the certificate appertaining to the specific batch from which your length was cut is available on request.

Galvanising Quality

All Jimmy Green Marine chain is sourced from reputed brands. The predominant focus for Jimmy Green Marine and our customers is on the galvanising quality and how long it will last without rusting.

Chain manufacturers do not generally have an in-house galvanisation plant. Galvanising is normally subcontracted to an external provider, usually local, to keep transportation costs to a minimum. 

We have seen galvanising from countless manufacturers over four decades of selling anchor chains. All of them have had batches with galvanising issues at one time or another. All our chain is visually inspected when it arrives, and any length that doesn’t pass our quality control check is set aside and reported back to the manufacturer.

The visual inspection is to identify any fused links, an unacceptably rough finish, and any blemishes. If you have read the article on the galvanising process, you will understand that seemingly bare patches should still have effective galvanising protection.

There is more information on Quality Control in this article: Jimmy Green Quality Control Process

Any rejected lengths may end up on the website at a reduced price with full details to ensure potential customers are fully aware of the potential issues.

If you are not happy with your chain, bearing in mind that the appearance of all galvanising changes as soon as it encounters seawater, please bring it to our attention. We follow a process of reporting the problem to the distributor or directly to the manufacturer, as appropriate. We act on your behalf to secure the best possible outcome. On occasion, despite our best efforts, the claim may be refused or ignored. At this point, if we believe that the customer is justified in their complaint, we will endeavour to help at our own cost.

This article will help you to understand what to expect from the galvanising on your chain: Galvanising appearance, performance and endurance

Stainless Quality

This is directly related to the grade.

G3 is adequate for anchoring in temperate waters.

G4 is a step up in quality and strength from G3, and G4 is consequently what Jimmy Green prefers to stock.

Cromox recommends their G6 for temperate waters but only G6+ for warm waters.

The Cromox electro-polishing option is a value-for-money method of extending the finish and working life of their G6 and G6+ stainless.

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Anchor Selection: A Guide to Types and Sizes

Anchoring is a crucial aspect of boating, and the right anchor can provide stability, safety and peace of mind for any sailor. Choosing the correct type and size of anchor is essential, as it can greatly impact your overall experience on the water. This guide will outline the various types of anchors available, their ideal uses, and how to choose the right size for your boat.

Understanding the Purpose of Anchors

Anchors serve multiple purposes in boating:

• Holding power : Anchors are designed to provide holding power by digging into the seabed and creating resistance, preventing the boat from drifting.
• Temporary mooring : When a boat needs to be stationary for a short period, an anchor is used to secure it in place.
• Emergencies : Anchors can serve as a safety measure in emergencies by helping to control your boat’s movements in rough weather or if the engine fails.

Types of Anchors

There are several types of anchors to cater for various boating requirements and environments. The primary ones include:

Plow Anchors

Originally designed for large ships, plow anchors resemble a plowshare and offer excellent holding power in most bottom conditions, especially sand and mud. They work by digging into the seabed and maintaining a consistent grip. Plow anchors are popular among cruisers due to their adaptability, and they can handle a variety of wind and current changes.

Danforth Anchors

Also known as fluke anchors, Danforth anchors boast superior holding power in proportion to their weight. They’re characterized by their flat, sharp flukes and long shank that allows them to dig into soft substrates like sand and mud. However, Danforth anchors may struggle with rocky bottoms and can be challenging to set in grassy or weedy seabeds.

Claw Anchors

Claw anchors, also known as Bruce anchors, have three claws that provide holding power in a variety of bottom conditions. Due to their versatile design, they re-set easily when the boat’s position changes and can function with shorter scope, which is the anchor rode (chain or rope) payed out relative to the water’s depth. These factors make claw anchors popular among boaters, though their holding power may be less than that of plow or Danforth anchors.

Mushroom Anchors

Mushroom anchors are useful for small boats in relatively calm conditions. As the name suggests, they’re shaped like a mushroom and utilize their weight to create a suction effect, embedding themselves into soft bottom substrates like silt or mud. However, they generally offer limited holding power in stronger currents or wind.

Choosing the Right Size Anchor for Your Boat

Selecting the appropriate size anchor for your vessel involves considering factors like boat weight, size, and the windage (resistance to wind). Generally, anchor manufacturers offer recommendations based on boat length, but it’s essential to factor in your specific boat’s requirements and typical anchoring conditions.

Anchor Weight

Anchors are typically sized by weight, ranging from a few pounds for small vessels to several hundred pounds for large yachts. The rule of thumb is that the heavier the boat, the heavier the anchor should be. However, it’s important to consider the type of anchor you’re using, as the holding power varies across anchor designs.

Boat Length

Boat length is another crucial aspect to consider when selecting an anchor size. Consult manufacturer guidelines on their recommendations for anchor sizing based on boat length.

Chain and Rode Size

The anchor rode, which connects your boat to the anchor, is critical for holding power. The scope, typically measured in a ratio of the rode’s length to the water’s depth, is an important factor for the anchor’s performance. A common recommendation is using a 4:1 scope for temporary mooring and a 7:1 scope for overnight anchoring. Ensure the chain (the section of the rode closest to the anchor) is of suitable size and strength to prevent it from breaking under strain.

Final Thoughts

When selecting an anchor for your boat, it’s essential to consider the type, size, and the conditions in which you’ll be anchoring. Consult manufacturer guidelines and conduct thorough research on the options available to make an informed decision. A properly sized and suited anchor will offer peace of mind, ensuring your vessel remains securely moored during your adventures on the water.

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How to Pick an Anchor Rope Size, Type, Length and More

Every anchor needs to be attached to the boat some how. In this article we'll discuss everything anyone ever needed to know about anchor rode.

Video: Everything You Need to Know About Anchor Rode

The video below answers many of the topics addressed here although the article goes into more detail (so there is some reward for reading!).

What is anchor rode?

Rode simply refers to the line and/or chain that connects the anchor to your boat. (Believe it or not,   rode   is not a typo!)

Ideally, the rode for any anchor setup should consist of both chain and rope. The chain should be on the end with the anchor. Why use both chain and rope? First, it keeps the nylon rode from wearing away by rubbing on the bottom of the sea-floor as the boat swings. Second, because the chain is heavy, it holds the rode to the bottom so the pull on the anchor is horizontal, which reduces the chances of your anchor unsetting.

What type of rope should I use? Nylon, Polyester, or ...?

For most boaters, the best type of rope to use when anchoring is nylon. Nylon has many advantages for anchoring including:

• It's elastic therefore offering good shock absorption
• Light and flexible
• Good strength
• The most common anchor rope found in marine stores

Nylon anchor rope is light, flexible, strong, and provides elasticity, which mitigates peak loads on your anchor and boat. Unfortunately, the very fact that nylon stretches means that it creates heat and will eventually break down and need to be replaced. However, you want a strong rope that will absorb the shock from waves and sink, not float. Nylon fits the bill of all of these things.

What's the difference between braided and twisted rope?

In our experience, for most recreational boaters, the difference between using twisted anchor rope or braided anchor rope comes down to preference and taste. Both make excellent choices for an anchor rope but there are some subtle differences between these two styles of rope.

Braided Rope

• Less stiff and more flexible
• Frequently stronger than twisted rope
• Easier on the hands
• Difficult to splice
• Less stretch than twisted rope

Twisted Rope

• Fairly easy to splice
• Generally less expensive
• Has more stretch than braided
• Has a tendency to kink or hockle
• More stiff and less flexible

How much anchor rope do I need and what size?

One of the questions we get asked most often is, "How much anchor rope and/or chain do I need?" When selecting how much rope and chain you need there are a couple of rules of thumb to use.

• You should have 8 feet of rope for every 1 foot of water you will be anchoring in
• Your rope should have 1/8" of rope diameter for every 9' of boat.

So this means a 28' boat would want at least a 3/8" or 1/2" diameter rope. Rope is one of those things, like anchors, where bigger normally is better.

As for a rope choice, Nylon is the clear favorite due to the fact it is elastic and relatively strong,

How much anchor chain do I need and what size?

Along with the rope, you should also have a smaller amount of chain between the rope and the anchor. This chain will keep your rope from rubbing against the seabed and also creates the optimal angle between your rode and the seabed. The general rule of thumb is that you want approximately 1' of chain for every 1' of boat. So a 30' boat would want 30' of chain. However, often certain constraints such as weight and locker room will not allow this ideal chain amount so in these situations you should have at least 10-15' of anchor chain for the reasons mentioned above. For boaters anchoring in extreme conditions and/or for extended periods of time, you will want about 1 foot of chain for every 6 feet of rope. The reason for the different requirements is that, in theory, by having 1 foot of chain for every 6 feet of rope, an optimal angle between the rode and the seabed will be achieved.

What type of chain do I need? (I   am not   using a windlass)

If you're not using an anchor windlass, your life is easy! Any chain that you can buy at a marine store that follows the size rules above should be adequate. Hardware store chain can also sometimes suffice but you should always be conscious of the breaking strength of it and ensure that it is   galvanized . If you are not using a windlass, you can simply attach your rope to your anchor using a shackle in between (ideally your rope will have an eye and/or thimble spliced into one end to make attaching a shackle easy.

What type of chain do I need? (I   am   using a windlass)

If you are using an anchor windlass then your choices are limited and you must use only the type and size of chain specified by the windlass manufacturer. Normally this type of chain will be G4 or BBB chain. Don't have your windlass manual? We have an article that lists the  type and size of chain required by most popular sizes of windlass here . Windlass chain is a whole other topic and in fact, we have another article  all about windlass chain here . If you are using a windlass, remember that you must  splice   your rope to your chain as a shackle going through your windlass gypsy will be bad news. (You can also hook the shackle around your windlass as well once it gets to that point but that's a pain!) You can purchase a prespliced rope and chain package or you can  splice your own .

Published May 01, 2018

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How Much Anchor Chain Should You Let Out When Anchoring?

Setting out the right amount of anchor chain is an important part of getting a good night’s sleep on your boat. The scope of your anchor chain – the ratio of chain to the complete anchoring depth – is the key factor in your boat being where you left it when you come back. Figuring the scope is a skill like any other you need to master, but the basics are not complex.

How much chain should you let out when anchoring? In most conditions with an all chain rode, for a secure overnight anchorage you will need to let out four to five times the total of the depth at high tide plus the height of the anchor roller from the water to get the correct scope . For a “lunch hook” - anchoring for a limited time when the boat will not be unattended - a three to one ratio is suitable.

This is right for most conditions, but it doesn’t cover every condition. Crowding in an anchorage, local regulations and expected weather all can affect the final decision on just how much chain you need to let out.

On this page:

The length of anchor chain for different conditions, anchor chain mistakes, why you need this much, when you might need or want less, use more chain in adverse conditions.

The scope is the ratio of chain to the complete anchoring depth. So what ratio should you use?

• Typically : 4 to 5 times the complete anchoring depth
• Lunch hook : 3 times the complete anchoring depth
• Bad weather : 5 to 7 times the complete anchoring depth

Use a smaller scope when the anchorage is crowded or has restricted space.

The complete anchoring depth is the total depth at high tide + the height of the anchor roller from the waterline.

Calculating Complete Anchoring Depth

The toughest part of word problems in math class was getting the right formula on paper. This isn’t an algebra class, so I can just give you the formulas. Your target anchoring depth , expressed as a formula, should be:

Complete Anchoring Depth = Current Depth + Depth Increase to High Tide + Height of Anchor Roller

Calculating Depth Increase to High Tide

The Depth Increase to High Tide can be a little more complex, but you will get good at estimating it with time and a conservative estimate is sufficient.

Depth Increase to High Tide = (Hours From High Tide / Length Between Tides) * Tidal Swing

• From a tide table, take the height of the highest tide and subtract the height of the lowest tide. This will give you the “swing” of the tide for the day.
• Estimate how many hours between high and low tides, and how many hours you are from the last or next high, whichever is closer.
• The time from the nearest high divided by the time between tides tells you how far you are into the tide change.
• You can multiply that by the tidal swing to estimate how much the tide will rise while you are at anchor.

EXPERT TIP: If you can see exposed pilings or rocks on land when you are anchoring, the marine growth showing on them is a quick way to estimate how much the tide will come in without a tide table or doing any math! Just make sure you’re looking at a rock that the high tide won’t completely cover.

If you anchor in twenty feet of water at low tide, the tide will come in five feet at high tide, and your bow roller is four feet from the water the calculation is 20 (depth) + 5 (tide) + 4 (bow height) = 29. Multiplying by four or five give a range from 116 to 145 feet of chain required for a secure anchor.

Many boaters overlook key pieces of information when figuring how much scope they need to anchor securely.

One common mistake is to use the current depth of the water beneath the boat at the time they drop the anchor.

Another mistake is not including the height of the anchor roller above the water. Forgetting either of those factors will leave you without enough chain for comfort and safety.

One other error boaters make is not measuring how much chain they have put out . Chain racing out of the anchor locker is tough to estimate by eye, and it’s easy to assume you’ve let out more or less than you have. Getting the math right but the measurements wrong isn’t safe either.

Some method of knowing how much chain you have down is critical. You can install a mechanical or electronic chain counter, or you can mark your chain to show distances as it goes out. Most chain markers wear off or fade, so pick a method as close to permanent as you can.

With an all chain rode, most of the holding power is in the chain's weight.

The anchor keeps the chain from dragging, but the primary pull holding the boat is the weight and friction of the chain against the bottom. Most of the load of the boat is resting on the chain, and the boat should not pull directly on the anchor. It will not hold.

If there is insufficient chain, and the boat is pulling on the anchor, the anchor may not lie flat on the bottom preventing the flukes and plows from settling into the bottom as designed.

Also, if the boat swings and the heading changes with wind or tide and there isn’t enough chain to let the anchor lie flat, it may not reset properly when the load changes direction. Enough scope may keep the anchor from resetting if the wind direction changes.

You can’t ignore the tide in areas with larger tidal swings. We’ve experienced tidal swings up to sixteen feet in some of the places we’ve traveled. At a 5:1 scope, you’d be up to eighty feet short of the required chain if you did not include this. Even a three foot tide can leave you up short in shallow water.

There are conditions which call for less chain.

In crowded anchorages

In crowded anchorages with a lot of boats you may not have space to let out more chain without hitting other boats. In a crowd it’s okay to ask another skipper how much rode they have out. You need to estimate how big of a circle your boat will make if the wind swings through the compass, and how you will lie with the other boats. If you anchor around several boats with rope/chain rodes and you are all chain, your swing will differ from those around you. You may wish to shorten the chain to stay out of their larger swing radius.

Anchorages with restricted space

Anchorages with restricted space may require you to stay within buoyed off areas and keep your scope short despite all the open space nearby. One harbor we anchored in had a small wedge-shaped anchorage designated on the charts, and a mooring field that encroached into the designated anchorage. The local navy enforced the zone aggressively and would move you if you swung over a line marked by pilings. We perched on the edge of the mooring field with a three-to-one scope so we wouldn’t swing into the moored boats in a southerly or the prohibited zone in a northerly.

And if you are not staying long in a spot you need not hunker down like you’re expecting a blow, especially if you have a manual windlass and have to haul all that chain back on board after lunch and a quick swim! If conditions are mild and you are not planning to leave your boat or sleep on it, it’s easier to set a shorter scope.

A change in the weather, especially a change for the worse, may require more chain than calculated. As long as there is swinging room with other boats around you, there is no harm in taking your scope out for six or seven to one. A change in wind direction, tidal current, or a large increase in wind strength all call for letting out a little more chain. A forty-knot blow will straighten your chain and pull a lot more off the bottom; more scope will prevent that.

Checking the weather for your anchorage is as important as checking it for your trip out there. Sudden shifts in wind direction can unseat an anchor as the boat swings and the anchor loads up. Comfort is a consideration when you choose your anchoring spot, and a wind shift in the night might make a cozy anchorage uncomfortable. But not having enough scope out to hold you when that happens takes it from uncomfortable to dangerous.

Related Questions

How long of anchor chain do you need? It depends on where you plan to cruise with your boat. If you spend your time in shallower waters with small tidal swings such as the Chesapeake your needs will differ from someone in the deep waters of Maine. Estimate the deepest place you may anchor, add in a fudge factor, and use the formulas.

Is the amount to let out the same for a rope/chain anchor rode? The formula for anchoring depth is the same, but the ratio is higher. For a rope/chain combination rode your scope should be as close to 7:1 as you can get, but no less than 5:1

As somebody who is living on a boat and being dependent on everybody around me not making stupid decisions, I find this topic cannot be covered enough! However, a comment: “The anchor keeps the chain from dragging, but the primary pull holding the boat is the weight and friction of the chain against the bottom.” I am afraid that is simply wrong. If that were true, it would be the frictional force of the chain on the seabed that is holding us, and thinking further, soon the question would arise why would we need an anchor in the first place? It is the anchor that is holding the boat - fully. The chain is a means to redirect the angle of pulling force from the bow, were it has a large vertical component, to something that is mostly horizontal, and hence will not pull out the anchor. This is what the catenary does. What is needed for this is a long enough chain, and the thicker it is the shorter it may be. See my analysis at https://trimaran-san.de/die-kettenkurve-oder-wie-ein-mathematiker-ankert/ - apps incl.

William Porter

Interesting observation and discussion, but I did make it clear it was the “primary” force, not only force.

In scenarios with more wind or wind shifts strong enough to move the chain, the anchor is a crucial bit to keep things in place.

In light wind situations, you can clearly see the boat drifting around over the chain, not the anchor. There, the chain lying on the bottom is enough to keep the boat in place.

With more wind, of course the math changes and gets much more complex, as your link describes.

But I note you state “I ignore friction and any form of energy dissipation” in the calculations. When determining drag resistance of a rode/anchor combination, I think you are overlooking a significant force. Chain stretched out on a seabed (or in the mud) offers considerable resistance from friction, until it is pulled off the bottom it helps hold the boat.

Whether that is significant relative to the dragging force from the boat in a variety of conditions needs to answered.

Ignoring friction and energy dissipation is certainly on the conservative side, but friction is by no means an important factor when it really matters. When it blows hard, all or most of the chain will be off the ground, so that friction is gone. And sure, when there is less wind, some chain will rest on the seabed and help the anchor by means of friction. But: A) It is not a lot, since it is only the weight of the chain on the seabed (at best), which is usually a small force compared to what the anchor can deal with and B), I do not care about this contribution, as it is only relevant when it does not blow hard, and so I have a lot of safety margin in the anchor, anyway. The friction of the chain slashing through the water is always there (as the vessel moves back and forth), true, but one can estimate that contribution and it turns out not be be too big a factor in the overall picture. So, one can safely ignore it and keep it as a small safety margin.

I have now created a free anchor chain calculator that may help some to get more confident when anchoring. It is based on a simplified physical model and has proven quite reliable for me: www.anchorchaincalculator.com

Thanks for adding to the discussion, Mattias. I was surprised the author made no mention of anchor weight being a factor. People pay good money for heavier anchors for a reason. Also, there was no mention of rough hints on double anchoring.

Overall, the original guide to chain length was handy, as intended. However, it could use an update to cover a little more clarity on these unaddressed aspects to more fully inform readers. Just add some “Advanced Topics” subsection to the article.

Leave a comment

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Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

Is your anchor chain up the job?

• November 6, 2020

It’s all well and good having a solid anchor, but having ground tackle that is going to keep you secure is equally important, says Vyv Cox

The equipment used to anchor our boats is constantly developing as new materials and designs appear, equipment is adapted from other technologies or existing items are improved.

Old ideas are constantly questioned by rigorous testing and field experience.

Secure anchoring isn’t just about the anchor itself, however.

The whole rode that connects the anchor to the boat, made up of a number of different parts, is arguably at least as important, if not more so, than the specifics of the anchor.

If you get your ground tackle set up correctly, with an understanding of its abilities and limitations, you can be confident that the much-maligned ‘weakest link’, is not going to let you down in challenging conditions.

First, some clarification, what is meant by a rode?

A rode (more archaically called ‘cable’) is whatever comprises the connection between the anchor shank and the fixed point at the other end on the boat.

It is customary to refer to an all-chain rode or a mixed rode, meaning chain plus rope, but realistically the term also includes any component used to join any part of it together.

SHACKLE OR SWIVEL?

Many people will argue that there is no need for a swivel at all.

In many cases where there is no problem with the chain twisting, this is true and my own adage is to fit one if you find you need it but not otherwise.

My choice is to fit one because it makes turning the anchor after recovery so much easier, when inevitably it comes up the ‘wrong’ way around, and this may even be essential for some self-launching and recovering anchor systems.

Some chains twist naturally, perhaps due to uneven wear on adjacent links and some shapes of anchor rotate quite violently as they are being recovered.

Using a shackle between chain and anchor is simple and strong, as long as twisting isn’t an issue

If you find that your chain is regularly twisted on recovery, or becomes twisted in the locker, it may be that a swivel will help.

There are other solutions to anchors emerging the ‘wrong’ way, to be discussed shortly.

If opting to use only a shackle it’s wise to select one a size bigger than the chain.

The pin of a 10mm shackle will fit through an 8mm chain link and most modern anchors are slotted to allow the eye of a shackle to pass through it.

The same applies to a 12/10mm combination.

Shackles come in two basic shapes,:a ‘D’ and a bow.

Bow shackles proved to be as strong as ‘D’ shackles

A ‘D’ would appear to offer better straight line strength but the bow would seem more able to cope with changes in pull direction.

The reality is that when I carried out destructive testing on both types there was no significant difference between either shape.

Chandlery-bought stainless steel shackles were generally stronger than their galvanised equivalents as shown in Table 1 below.

If we look at galvanised alloy steel shackles for the lifting and hoisting industries, however, we can see that those in the Crosby G209 A range, in Table 2 for example, are considerably stronger than any of the ‘marine’ offerings tested.

CMP, makers of the Rocna anchor, market another high strength shackle, the Titan Black Pin.

This make is marketed by some UK mail order chandleries.

Again, the strength offered by heat-treated alloy steel greatly exceeds the figures obtained from chandlery bought items, Table 3.

ANCHOR CONNECTORS

An answer to the problem of anchors recovered the ‘wrong’ way has been developed in Australia.

This is a simple asymmetric device called a Boomerang.

Gravity simply causes the anchor to rotate on the bow roller .

It is shackled to the anchor chain at one end and to a short length of chain between it and the anchor.

It therefore requires two shackles and an adequate distance between the bow roller and windlass.

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I tested a cranked swivel by Osculati working by the same principle but in my experience found it to inhibit setting of the anchor.

This may be due to the greater angular displacement offered by this device.

The marketplace offers a bewildering variety of swivels, ranging from roughly galvanised designs costing under £10 to beautifully engineered works of art in exotic materials costing well into three figures.

Connectors that are built down to a price will be fairly lightly built and will rely on two metal loops bolted together, as seen bottom right.

An anchor swivel will help eliminate twists, but the straight side arms can fail under lateral loading

This design is widely sold in chandleries and mail order outlets but any design that relies upon bolted components to carry the load of the chain or anchor is likely to have poor loading capacity and is best avoided.

In the destructive tests that I carried out the only swivels that had higher strength than the chain to which they were intended to connect were those in which the bolt simply held two forged parts together, the Osculati and the Kong.

In these the strength is provided by the forged construction, inherently strong and tough, as in the image below.

The only potential weakness would be if the connecting bolt were to undo, so I always use some thread lock on the swivel bolt.

This has proved to be totally reliable over 10 years plus.

The type illustrated has the disadvantage that any angled loads to the end of the anchor tend to bend the parallel arms of the swivel, although the designs normally offer lateral loading capacity equivalent to the SWL of the chain.

I devised a simple way to avoid the problem in 2007, reported in YM, and now widely used in anchoring advice.

Adding in three chain links between swivel and anchor retains the benefits, while allowing full articulation

This is the addition of two or three links of chain between the swivel and anchor, allowing total articulation.

More recently several manufacturers including Mantus and Ultra have introduced compact, expensive designs that allow articulation by eliminating side arms.

The top swivel shown above is by Mantus, using an incorporated bow shackle and forged pin to carry chain loads, while below it, the Ultra flip swivel uses two forged pins and utilises a ball joint that gives better articulation than parallel side arms up to about 45o-degrees of lateral displacement. Wasi make a similar swivel.

Were the anchor to be wedged in rock and the tide direction reversed, it could be imagined that high bending loads might be imposed upon the rather narrow necks, though the manufacturers claim breaking loads above that of chain.

A simple boomerang link will flip the anchor the right way up in recovery

The Osculati twist anchor connector combines the boomerang idea with a swivel

ANCHOR CHAIN

As a rough guide to the right size chain for your boat, in 8mm Grade 30 chain is sufficient for boats up to about 37ft, 10mm up to 45ft and 12mm above that, but the displacement of the boat is an additional factor.

There is also clearly a difference in the chain needed for weekend pottering and extended high-latitude cruising.

A good way to decide on chain size is to consult chandlery websites, where good information is available.

Chain failure is very rare, thanks to a typical safety factor of 4:1.

The length of chain needed is also very much location dependent.

Cruising the Irish Sea I carried little more than 50 metres but for more sustained cruising I have extended that and now carry 65 metres.

Some areas further afield are blessed with deeper water anchorages for which lengths of up to 100 metres may be desirable.

A well-drained chain locker will prolong the chain’s life

Chain is heavy

A yacht intending to cruise extensively might well carry 100 metres, amounting to 140kg for 8mm, 230kg for 10mm, stowed well forward where sailing performance would benefit least.

By substituting a smaller size but a higher grade some useful weight-saving is gained.

As an example, by reference to Table 4, carrying 100 metres of 8mm, Grade 70 instead of the same length in 10mm Grade 30 would save 90kg in the anchor locker and almost double the strength of the rode, from 4,800 to 8,400kg.

Marine chain in sizes up to 12mm is dominated by Chinese production, although one or two European manufacturers continue to produce.

The main UK importers of galvanised chain are probably Bainbridge and William Hackett.

The chain is nominally Grade 30 but testing has shown UTS figures to approach or even exceed the values required of Grade 40.

Many manufacturers reduce the thickness of zinc on production chain, with the result that many purchasers see rust after only two or three seasons.

AISI 316 stainless steel chain is normally to Grade 30 specification.

It is almost rust-free and its smooth finish does not heap in the locker, but it costs roughly four times that of galvanised chain.

Higher grades of stainless steel, 318L in Grades 50 and 60, are known as Cromox.

They have double the strength of 316 chain and considerably better corrosion resistance.

Chain in this material does not come cheap.

The Mantus (pictured above) and Ultra (below) are modern swivels that seek to eliminate earlier swivels’ weaknesses

The chief advantage of a mixed rode is weight saving, desirable in smaller or lighter yachts and particularly in catamarans.

Rope for mixed rodes may be three-strand or octoplait, either of which can be spliced to the chain if it is required to pass through a windlass.

Instructions for doing this are widely available on the internet but it will be necessary to consult the windlass manual to determine the precise type of splice that will pass through the gypsy.

Nylon is probably the most widely used material for this duty but polyester is also employed, nylon having rather more elasticity, especially in three-strand form, although nylon three-strand goes quite hard and inflexible after some time, not a desirable property in an anchor rode.

Octoplait seems to retain its flexibility to a greater extent.

Elasticity is very desirable in the rode, provided by a snubber in an all-chain rode but inherent in a mixed rode.

A medium-term problem with splices is that the rope remains wet for long periods, causing premature corrosion of the chain.

Regular inspection and fresh water washing is advisable.

For boats without a windlass, or for kedge use, it may be more convenient to splice a thimble into the end of the rope for attachment to the chain with a shackle.

A typical mixed rode will have about 30 metres of chain and maybe 50 metres of rope.

For most anchoring in moderate tidal ranges only the chain will be used, avoiding the difficulties that sometimes occur feeding rope into the chain locker, or worse, down a spurling pipe.

EXTENDING CHAIN

It is sometimes necessary to join two or more lengths of chain that are required to pass through a windlass.

This might be because it has been decided to carry a longer chain due to changing cruising grounds, or just because some corroded links need to be cut out.

The only way to do this is with a C-link.

This clever little device comprises two halves of a chain link that can be riveted together to form a single link.

When made up, and in the same material as the chain, a C-link has about half the strength of the mild steel chain that it is intended to join.

An eye splice is simpler, and can be connected via a shackle

A chain splice will allow the join to pass through a windlass

Chain stored with wet rope can rust more quickly

For this reason a top quality C-link is made from heat-treated alloy steel that is about twice as strong as mild steel.

The result is a link that is as strong, or more usually stronger, than the chain.

It is an unfortunate truth that the vast majority of C-links sold in chandleries are made from mild steel, or possibly stainless steel.

These will have 50 to 60% of the chain strength when well made up.

Once again we turn to the lifting and hoisting industry where we find alloy steel C-links that will not compromise the strength of our chain.

Crosby also supply these, known as the G335 ‘Missing Link’, in Table 5.

Due to the fact that they are hardened and tempered, it takes some serious effort to peen the rivets.

A large hammer and drift on an anvil is the recommended technique.

ATTACHMENT TO THE BOAT

It would be remiss not to mention attachment of your anchor rode’s bitter end to the boat.

Should you pay out too much chain or should the windlass fail without doing so could easily result in the loss of your ground tackle.

Do not, however, shackle your chain to the boat.

If the anchor becomes fouled, or you need to let go the anchor in an emergency, you need to be able to let it go under load, and the only reliable way of doing this is by lashing the end of the chain to a dead-eye in the anchor locker, so that it can be cut in a hurry, or untied and attached to a large fender, should you need to let go the chain.

It’s also worth inspecting the dead-eye itself: is it big enough fitting?

Is the bulkhead it is bolted into in good condition, and does it have something to spread the load on the other side?

RECOMMENDATIONS

The rode’s bitter end should be securely attached to a solid point in the locker, but must be easy to let go in an emergency

C-Links are used to join chain. The two halves are placed together and the rivet peened inside the hole with a hammer and drift until fully secure

Modern anchors offer great improvements in holding power compared to those of yesteryear.

The rode that attaches them to the boat should also be of good quality.

Nominal Grade 30 chain is probably the most widely used and is generally totally reliable but, if the boat size is marginal for the recommended size, increasing the grade provides greater strength without the expense of a windlass gypsy change.

Grades 40 and 70 offer strength increases while Cromox gives the additional corrosion resistance.

Swivels should be types that do not rely on bolts to carry anchoring loads, whether on the anchor or the chain attachment.

Only use a swivel if you find it useful as they are not essential and can introduce weakness to the rode.

Galvanised alloy steel shackles from the lifting industry provide the greatest strength.

Wichard HR shackles (17/4 PH) were the strongest stainless steel shackles in testing.

Nylon rope has greater elasticity than polyester and three-strand construction has more elasticity than octoplait.

Nylon octoplait is a good compromise.

Alloy steel C-links from the lifting industry are as strong as Grade 30 chain but not advised for higher grades.

Mild steel and 316 stainless steel C-links have about half the strength of Grade 30 chain.

About the author

Vyv Cox is a retired metallurgist and engineer who normally spends six months of the year on board his Sadler 34 in the Mediterranean

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• Anchor Chain Length

The Minimum Anchor Chain Length Needed To Properly Secure Your Boat

Just what anchor chain length should you deploy when dropping the hook? It's something you have to get right, as too little and your boat's likely to drag; too much and you run the risk of swinging into other anchored boats.

The primary factor in deciding the length of anchor chain to deploy is the depth of water you're about to anchor in. And of course, if you're in tidal waters, the range has to be taken into account.

For instance if you drop your hook in 3m (10ft) at low water springs in one of the UK's Bristol Channnel ports you'll find that 6 hours later you've got 18m (60ft) of water under your boat. Yes, that really is a 15m (50ft) range.

So if you didn't take the rise of tide into account when deciding on the anchor chain length to deploy, you'll now find yourself in a spot of bother.

Bristol Channel sailors have to deal with the second greatest tidal range in the world - only the Bay of Fundy in Canada can beat the Bristol Channel tides!

Conversely, in Caribbean waters - which can boast of nothing more than half a metre (2ft) or so - you can pretty much ignore tidal range in your anchor scope calculations.

The Effective Depth

Your electronic depth sounder displays the depth between the transducer and seabed, unless you've entered offsets such that it shows either the depth below the keel, or the full depth from the surface. 

To this latter depth you'll need to add the height of the bow roller above the surface to get the effective depth. Why? Well, it's from the bow roller that you'll measure the length of anchor chain to be deployed.

What's Going On At The Anchor?

For the anchor to do what's expected of it, the pull exerted upon it by the chain must be horizontal as shown here.

Note that the blade part of the anchor is angled downwards, tending to pull the anchor deeper as load is applied to it.

However, as more load is applied, such that the chain is no longer lying flat, the shank of the anchor will rise clear of the seabed as shown here.

Eventually it will reach a point where the blades lose their tendency to 'dig in'. 

The Critical Angle and Minimum Scope

The angle at which this point point is reached is known as the critical angle, which for most modern anchors is between 15 and 20 degrees. 

Consequently, the minimum scope to lay out to avoid the critical angle being exceeded is [(effective depth)/sin 15] which is very close to 4 x the effective depth .

Hence Scope:Effective Depth = 4:1 , which is the theoretical minimum ratio to avoid the anchor pulling out when the chain is pulled taut - but note the words 'theoretical' and 'minimum' .

If, having laid out the appropriate scope, another anchored vessel is within your swing circle - you're too close.

For most conditions 4:1 scope is fine, the chain will not be pulled tight and the boat will lie to its anchor like the one on the right in the pic below. 

In this condition, the effect of any gusts will be absorbed by the catenary in the chain such that the load on the anchor won't be increased.

Artwork by Andrew Simpson

But in strong winds, the boat may take up a position as shown above, where the 4:1 ratio is only just adequate and there's no reserve catenary to absorb the effect of further gusts. 

Note:  The heavier the anchor chain, the greater the load required to straighten out the catenary. So in this regard, the heavier the chain, the better...

Now a gust will apply a shock load directly on the anchor, which is likely to drag at best or, at worst, break out completely. Clearly not a prospect that most of us would be comfortable with.

So what's to be done?

The Anchor Chain Length for 'Normal' Conditions

Here's what I do normally:

Deploy the 4:1 scope then attach a stretchy 10m snubber line with a chain hook to absorb the shock loads that would otherwise be applied to the anchor in wind gusts. 3 strand nylon rope is fine for this, but 8 strand multiplait is even better - and anything less than 10m is unlikely to provide enough stretch to be of much benefit. Those dinky little short ones that hang in a loop from the bow are of no use whatsoever.

Incidentally, if you don't have a chain hook, use a rolling hitch to attach the snubber to the chain. That way it won't fall off when the wind drops, as a chain hook tends to.

The Anchor Chain Length for Ultimate Security...

Here's what I recommend:

Lay out the 4:1 scope plus twice the boat length -  providing of course there's room to do so, and you've got enough chain in your anchor locker.

Now you can rest easy in your bunk or make a trip ashore, confident in the knowledge that you've done the best you can for the security of your anchored boat.

An Example...

For a boat 12m long overall with bow height of 1m above the waterline, the recommended anchor chain length to be deployed is...

For a 12m boat carrying a 20kg anchor, 70m of 10mm chain is probably as much weight as you'd want in your anchor locker, but this would still give you a 4:1 scope in 15m (50ft) depth of water.

Which is why on Alacazam  (11.5m loa) we have a 20kg Rocna anchor, 70m of 10mm HT chain, and a further 30m of multiplait anchor warp ready to hank on to the end of the anchor chain if conditions demand - and an electric rope/chain windlass! 

Anchoring Stern-to on a Steeply Shelving Shore

Here we've dropped the hook in around 30m (100ft) on around 70m (215ft) anchor chain length on a steeply shelving shore. But with the stern tied off to a palm tree ashore we're perfectly secure. 

With the North-East Trade Winds blowing offshore there's no load at all on the anchor - its just keeping our bow in line.

In the unlikely event that this became a lee shore we'd still be fine, as the anchor would have to drag 'uphill'. And as the seabed slopes at more than 20 degrees, the critical angle  at the anchor could never be reached.

More about Anchors and Anchoring...

A good sailboat anchor is your ultimate insurance.

Just why does one type of sailboat anchor perform so much better than another, and how do you know what to look for when choosing the best anchor for your sailboat?

Methods of Joining Anchor Chain

Here’s how to go about joining anchor chain, either to another length of chain or by a rope/chain splice to a warp, and by a swivel connector to the anchor.

Is BBB Anchor Chain As Good As The Other Types Of Anchor Chain?

Proof Coil, High Test and BBB anchor chain all have their own attributes and shortcomings, so there's no one answer. But here's how to choose what's best for your boat...

Is an Anchor Snubber Line really Necessary?

If you have an all-chain rode then yes, you definitely need an anchor snubber line. But what's best, a single snubber line or a bridle? Well, it depends...

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Selecting the Right Anchor Size

Holding power increases with weight, but how much is hard to calculate..

Over the years Practical Sailor has conducted dozens of anchor tests, and like many publications, we’ve repeated the common guidance that cruising sailors should buy an anchor that is at least one size larger than what the maker recommends for your size vessel.

During the last two decades, however, the tremendous holding power of some newer generation anchors have caused us to re-think this guidance. Are we paying more for an anchor, rode, and the requisite anchor handling equipment than we need? How accurate are the makers size recommendations? How much insurance are we really getting for the price of a bigger anchor?

For this report we took a range of modern, sometimes called new generation anchors, and their predecessors and averaged their weight vs. vessel size recommendations (see accompanying table). Much to our surprise, the weight recommendations for the new designs, Rocna, Excel, Supreme, etc. are very similar to the weight recommendation for the older, traditional models, CQR, Delta, Bruce etc. In both cases, the recommendation for a 35-foot yacht is approximately a 30-pound anchor. The exceptions are aluminum anchors from Fortress and Spade.

Most of the new generation anchors have been tested to international standards established by the RINA (Registro Italian Naval) or some other internationally recognized society. Rocna, Fortress, Supreme, Excel, Spade have been found to meet standards of Super High Holding Power, SHHP. The older anchors, CQR, Bruce, Delta are rated as High Holding Power. The difference between the two categories is that the SHHP have been tested and found to have a hold, comparing anchors of the same weight, that is two times that of the HHP anchors.

So if we’re getting double the holding power, does that mean we can use an anchor that is half the weight? Not necessarily. Nor can you expect another doubling of holding power by doubling the weight of an SHHP anchor.

Despite the sales pitch that the new anchors have greater holding capacity pound-for-pound, the anchor makers are suggesting that you replace your old CQR with the same weight new anchor. It appears that manufacturers are, in effect, doubling the historic safety factor. And for a cautious sailor, there is nothing wrong with this.

However, consider the advice that is often repeated on internet forums, or the local scuttlebutt, that cruising sailors should increase one size over the makers recommendation. So instead of a 33-pound Rocna for your Tartan 37, you buy a 44-pound Rocna-now with potentially three times the safety factor of an old school anchor. Apart from the added significant expense, this obsession with upsizing – more anchor, more chain, bigger windlass-can also add potentially unnecessary weight and concentrate it in the bow.

So what do we really get with that bigger anchor? There is an idea that if you double weight of an anchor you will double holding power. Except with extra-large commercial anchors and some specific tests, we’ve found no data to support this.

No independent test, as far as we know, has taken a series of different sized anchors of the same design and tested them in the same seabed for ultimate holding capacity. Tests have been conducted on commercial oil rig anchors like the Bruce, and the best scaling is about 90 percent-double weight and you increase hold by 1.8 times.

The only recreational anchor that we are aware of that has undergone some testing to determine the relationship between weight and holding is Fortress (in mud only, see Anchoring in Squishy Bottoms, PS February 2015 ). An analysis of all their tests on a complete range of their anchor sizes suggest that if you triple weight you increase hold by slightly more than two times, approximately an 80 percent efficiency as size is scaled up.

Ultimately, this means that when someone tells you they can calculate the increase in holding power as you move up in size, be careful not to read too much into this conclusion. For one, the ratio used deserves close scrutiny. Surely, the bigger anchor will provide better holding-but how much? This hard to quantify, even with computer modeling. And no matter how accurate your calculation-a ratio based on performance in one type of bottom might not apply in another.

One reason you can’t claim that doubling the weight doubles the holding is that as anchors increase in size, the stress on the construction increases. To compensate for the increase in stress, the steel thicknesses must be increased – and more steel weighs more. So in an anchor whose holding power relies greatly on surface area and how it is distributed, adding more weight doesn’t necessarily result in a commensurate increase in surface area that provides holding power.

And as we’ve shown in our past tests-anchor dimensions (especially the fluke area) and shape can play a significant role in performance. It might be possible to double weight and double the holding power without beefing up the steel, but the resulting anchor would be less strong relative to its designed holding power.

Weaker construction might not matter on an over-engineered anchor. However, we have seen how the use of inferior materials has resulted in anchors that bend more easily at designed loads (see Anchor Tests: Bending More Shanks, PS May 2013 ).

Anchor Angles

In past reports, we’ve discussed in detail how anchor design can impact holding, especially with the new generation anchors ( see An Inquiry into Anchor Angles, PS February 2017 ). As you consider which design best suits your needs, here are some things to consider.

Fluke/shank angle. The fluke/shank angle is the angle between fluke and shank. It is one of the determining factors in how quickly and deeply an anchor sets. For a simple design with flat plate fluke and a straight shank (like a Guardian) the angle is a line down the center of the shank to the hinge and then along the fluke. In shanks with curves or angles, the first line is usually drawn from the shackle pin to the point there the shank meets the fluke.

For three-dimensional flukes (as found in most new generation anchors), you have to estimate where the top of the fluke plate lies. The ballast chamber or shank support that might protrude from the sole, such as with Spade, or Vulcan anchor should not be used to determine shank/fluke angle.

It is the fluke top surface that is important. In previous tests we reported that in thin mud an anchor with a fluke angle of around 45 degrees will outperform an identical anchor with its fluke angle set at 30 degrees. But a firmer sand seabed is entirely different, and research demonstrates the ideal fluke angle for a typical sand bottom is around 30 degrees (see Small Anchor Reset Tests, PS February 2013 ).

Fluke-seabed angle. This is the angle of the fluke to the seabed during the phases of anchoring-most importantly, during the initial penetration into the bottom, and when the anchor is set.

Penetration angle. When an anchor is aligned ready to set, or engage with the seabed (it might need tension on the rode to achieve this) then the fluke will usually be at an angle of 60-70 degrees to the seabed. Commonly the anchor is on its side.

Setting angle. Once the anchor starts to penetrate it will self align and the fluke plate tend quickly toward its setting angle, usually of about 30 degrees. It is coincidence that the fluke/shank angle and setting angle are similar though most anchors tend to show the similarity of the two angles. Center of gravity can have a great effect on penetration angle. This is why many new generation anchors, like the Ultra, have weighted flukes. Having a 30-degree fluke/shank angle is irrelevant if the center of gravity is in the wrong place.

Shank length

If you imagine a Fortress with a shank/fluke angle of 30 degrees but a shank three times longer than its original design, then you can visualize how the anchor will probably simply slide along the seabed when tensioned. The throat opening will be too small. Similarly if you chop the shank in half, the toe of the anchor will simply scrape along the seabed. In both case the anchor will find difficulty in engaging because the penetration angle will be wrong.

Are the makers of new generation anchors over-stating the need for bigger anchors, thus requiring boat owners to pay much more than they might need in order to be secure at anchor? Possibly. Would going with a larger-than-required anchor actually hurt your anchors performance? Unlikely. As is often the case with our anchor reports, it is hard to come with some firm answers regarding both of these questions. Anchor studies are fraught with variables.

In our view, it is no crime to go up one size over the manufacturers recommended size, if your boat and crew can handle it. The anchor may require more reverse throttle to set, but ultimately, it should provide the holding you require. Likewise, it is reasonable to assume that the anchor makers guidance for sizing is reasonable. However, if an online advocate starts telling you that youll get x times more holding power by going up one size, ask him for the data.

Extra weight in an anchor is your insurance policy. Yes, you can almost always get more security with the heavier anchor, but whether or not you will every need that extra holding power is not conclusive. In our view, conservative sizing is added insurance-but until the data is in, we remain skeptical of any absolute claims that attempt to quantify the advantages of more weight when choosing an anchor.

Based on average recommendations from leading anchor makers, the weight savings of upgrading to a second generation anchor doesn’t really pay off until you get into the larger size vessels.

In an anchor whose holding power relies greatly on surface area and how it is distributed, adding more weight doesn’t necessarily result in a commensurate increase in surface area that provides holding power. To compensate for the higher loads, the steel must be thicker, resulting in different surface area/weight ratios.

• As fluke size increases, so do the loads. But if the construction isn’t beefed up to handle the loads, the result is failure. Flat plate steel in this Danforth fluke sheered.
• The shaft of an Excel anchor bent during veer testing.
• The flat flukes of the Bugel anchor makes it easy to calculate the shank-fluke angle.
• Here a Rocna anchor is in the initial setting angle, still capsized on one side, with not enough of its toe is dug into the soil to dig in. Bottom shape and center of gravity (some designs are weighted to control CG), helps to determine this angle.
• This Manson Ray anchor has rolled upright and assumed the angle of penetration that will help the anchor to bury into the bottom.

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Anchor Sizing

When sizing an anchor or anchor rode, it’s useful to have starting point and to think of the whole system. This is a table developed by American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) to approximate the expected load on the anchor and the anchor rode for given wind speed and boat length. The complete table appears in Section H-40 of ABYC’s Standards and Technical Reports for Small Craft available at abycinc.org.  The below table was created more than 50 years ago and it is not clear exactly how it was derived. After comparing this data in this table to work that has been done since we come to the conclusion that the values presented here represent loads expected on the anchor rode if anchored on chain only without the use of the snubbing system.  And using a line rode or and adequately designed snubber you can reduce the loads by a factor of 3, by eliminating the shock loads. This is an argument for why its so important to use a snubber but when sizing anchor rode or your anchor, it is important to consider loads as stated in the table. The reason is that we can not rely on the integrity of a snubber in a storm.  Should the snubber fail, the integrity of the rode should be sufficient to handle the loads without the snubber.

The ABYC Horizontal Working Load (lbs) Table

How do you intend to use your boat? Do you sail only on calm days with fair weather (Lunch Hook) or are you outfitting for an adventure (Storm) where you might be exposed to hazardous weather at anchor? For example, if you are outfitting a 35 foot boat for you should size the working rode and anchor to safely handle loads up to 1,800lbs if planning a cruising adventure, but the same margin of safety is not necessary if operating day trips from the safety of a marina.

When making sizing recommendations we are generally referring to the needs of a cruising boat spending most of its time on anchor, in doing so we try to envelope high sustained winds (45 kts) and assume poor holding conditions (low viscosity bottoms).  Some may think these recommendations to be too conservative especially when compared to sizing tables from other manufacturers. Companies often make claims of superior anchor efficiency, stating that their small anchor X will outperform a much heavier anchor from their competitors and often use sizing charts as a marketing tool to that end, recommending anchors and anchor systems that are dangerously undersized for their intended use.  Comparing surface area can be a good judge for potential holding capability.  Our anchor sizing recommendations are presented in the table below:

ANCHOR SIZING GUIDE (Click to enlarge)

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Boat Anchor Chain – 11 Things You Should Know

A boat anchor chain is one of the most important pieces of equipment on a boat. The chain attaches the anchor to the boat and provides a strong connection that can hold against even the strongest winds and waves. It’s important to choose a quality chain that will withstand wear and tear over time.

When choosing for a boat anchor chain, be sure to consider the thickness and strength of the metal. The thicker and stronger the chain, the more reliable it will be in difficult conditions. Also look for corrosion-resistant coating to protect it from rusting.

How is anchor chain made

When you’re cruising along and drop your anchor, you’re relying on a piece of equipment known as an anchor chain. This chain is made up of heavy-duty links that connect the anchor to the boat. It’s important to know how this crucial piece of equipment is made.

The process of making this chain begins with steel billets. These billets are heated until they are molten and then formed into chains. The chains are then put through a series of machines that polish and straighten them. They are also treated with a coating that helps to protect them from corrosion.

The links in an this chain can be up to nine inches long and weigh up to 14 pounds each. The entire chain can weigh more than 2,000 pounds.

Types of boat anchor chains

When it comes to boat anchor chains, there are three main types: galvanized, stainless steel, and nylon coated. The main difference between these chains is the material used in their construction. 

Galvanized chains are made of zinc-plated steel. This makes them less likely to corrode in salt water environments. However, they are also the heaviest and most expensive to consider.

Stainless steel chains are resistant to rust and corrosion. They are also lighter than galvanized chains, but more expensive. 

Nylon coated chains offer the best resistance to corrosion and abrasion. They are also lightweight and affordable.

Boat anchor chain size

When it comes to boat anchors, size does matter. The weight of the anchor is critical, but the size of the chain is also important. You don’t want to use a small chain with a large anchor, or a large chain with a small anchor.

The right size chain will help you set your anchor quickly and keep it in place. It’s also important to use a chain that is strong enough to hold your boat in place during high winds and rough seas.

The most common size for boat anchor chains is 5/16 inch. This size is strong enough to hold most boats in place, but it’s also lightweight and easy to handle. If you have a larger boat, you may want to use a chain that is 3/8 or 1/2 inch thick.

How much anchor chain do you need

Anchors and chains are important pieces of safety gear for any boat. It is important to know how much anchor chain you need for your boat in order to ensure that you have the proper weight and length of chain.

The first step is to determine the size of your anchor. This can be done by consulting your boat’s owner’s manual or by measuring the anchor itself. Once you have the size of your anchor, you can then use a chart to find out how much chain is needed.

Most boats will need between 50 and 100 feet of chain, depending on the size of the anchor and the depth of the water. It is also important to make sure that you have enough rope or line to attach the chain to the bow of your boat.

How to attach chain to anchor

When anchoring a boat, it is important to use a heavy chain to ensure the boat stays in place. The chain should be attached to the anchor and the anchor should be attached to the boat. There are several ways to do this.

One way is to use an iron shackle. This is a metal clip that can be opened and closed. The shackle can be attached to the chain and then attached to the anchor.

Another way is to use a swivel clip. This is a metal clip with a swivel on it. The swivel allows the clip to move around so that it can attach easily to both the chain and the anchor.

A third way is to use an anchor bridle. This is a piece of rope with loops on each end. One loop goes around the anchor and the other goes around the chain.

When to replace anchor chain

Anchor chain should be inspected regularly for signs of wear and tear. If the chain is worn or damaged, it needs to be replaced.

It’s important to know when to replace it. If the chain is heavily corroded, damaged, or has links that are missing or broken, it needs to be replaced. Another indication that it might be time for a new chain is if your current one doesn’t have enough length to reach the bottom in the area where you normally anchor. 

When replacing it, make sure you get the right size and type of chain for your boat.

How to choose the right anchor chain

When you’re looking for a new anchor chain, there are a few things you need to keep in mind.

The size of the boat or ship

When you are looking to buy anchor chain, it is important to consider the size of your boat or ship. If you have a smaller boat, you don’t need as much chain as someone with a larger boat. You also need to make sure that the chain is strong enough to hold your boat in place. 

The size of an anchor chain refers to the diameter of the links in the chain. A larger diameter will provide more strength and stability than a smaller diameter. It’s also important to make sure that the weight of the chain is appropriate for your boat. A heavy chain can cause problems with stability and maneuverability.

Materials of the chain

When you are choosing an anchor chain, you need to consider the material of the chain. One popular option for anchor chain material is stainless steel. Stainless steel is corrosion resistant and has a high breaking strength. However, it can be expensive and it is heavier than some other materials. 

Another option for this chain material is galvanized steel. Galvanized steel is less expensive than stainless steel and also corrosion resistant, but it does not have as high a breaking strength as stainless steel. 

Finally, some people choose to use nylon rope for their anchor chain. Nylon rope is lightweight and has a low breaking strength, but it is also very affordable.

The weight of the anchor

Whe weight of the anchor should be a major consideration when purchasing. Lighter anchors need lighter chain, while heavier anchors require heavier chain. If you choose an anchor that is too light for the chain you have, your anchor will not be able to set properly and could easily break free in a storm. 

If you choose an anchor that is too heavy for your chain, you could overload your system and cause damage to your boat or even worse, lose your boat.

The type of seabed

When choosing anchor chain, it is important to consider the type of seabed where you will be using it.

If you will be anchoring in sand or mud, you will need a heavy-duty chain with a large diameter. A chain with a small diameter will quickly become clogged with sediment and may not hold your boat in place. 

If you will be anchoring in rock, you will need a light-duty chain with a small diameter. A chain with a large diameter will cause damage to the rocks and may not hold your boat in place.

It’s also important to make sure that your chain is long enough to reach the bottom of the water where you will be anchoring.

Consider Price

Heavier and larger anchors are in general tend to be more expensive, but they are also more durable and can hold onto the bottom better in strong winds and currents.

If you’re looking for an anchor that will serve you well in a variety of conditions, it may be worth spending a little extra money on a high-quality model. However, if you’re only going to use your boat in calm waters, a less expensive option may be sufficient.

Where to buy anchor chain

If you are in the market for a new anchor chain, there are a few places you can buy it. The first place to look is usually an online retailer. There are a few reputable retailers that sell anchor chains, and they usually have a variety of sizes and lengths to choose from.

Another option is to go to a local marine store. These stores typically carry a wide variety of boat supplies, including anchor chains. They may also have anchors for sale, so it is worth checking out their inventory if you need both items.

Finally, you could also try looking for a salvage company in your area. These businesses typically sell used boat parts, and they may have an anchor chain or two available for purchase. Just be sure to ask about the condition of the chain before you buy it!

Boat anchor chain maintenance tips

Boat anchors are a necessary piece of equipment for any vessel, but proper care and maintenance is required to keep them functioning properly. One important part of anchor maintenance is keeping the chain healthy. The following tips can help you do just that:

• Inspect the chain regularly for signs of wear and tear. This includes looking for kinks, rust, and broken links.
• If you find any damage, remove the chain from service immediately and have it repaired by a qualified professional.
• Use a mild soap or detergent to clean the chain occasionally, making sure to rinse it thoroughly afterwards.
• Apply a coat of lubricant to the chain every few months to help keep it moving freely. You can apply coat of naval jelly to the links of the chain if you want. This will help to prevent corrosion. 
• Store the anchor and chain in a dry place when not in use.
• Never overload the chain or allow it to come into contact with sharp objects.
• Make sure all connections between links are tight and secure. Loose connections can cause chains to break under stress.
• If you have an electric windlass, make sure to keep it clean and well lubricated.
• Keep an extra anchor on hand, in case you need to replace one that is damaged or worn out.
• Practice using your anchors regularly, so that you’ll be familiar with how they work in different conditions.

Anchor chain vs Rope

The debate between anchor chain and rope has been around for years. Some people swear by anchor chains while others prefer ropes. So, what’s the difference?

Anchor chains are made of metal and typically weigh more than ropes. They are also less elastic, meaning they don’t stretch as much under tension. This makes them better suited for holding boats in place in windy or choppy waters. Anchor chains also tend to corrode less than ropes, making them a more durable option.

Ropes, on the other hand, are made of fibrous materials and can be lighter than chains. They are also more elastic, meaning they can stretch more under tension. This makes them better suited for tying down objects in calm waters. Ropes also tend to fray over time, while chains do not.

If your boat is heavy, then you’ll need a stronger anchor chain. A rope might not be able to hold the weight of your boat. However, if your boat is lightweight, then a rope will be just fine.

Another thing you need to consider is the type of bottom you’re anchored in. If you’re in mud or sand, an anchor chain will sink down and grip the bottom much better than a rope will.

Related: Which of the following must you do anchoring a boat at night? – 07 Things 

Stainless steel vs Galvanised anchor chain: Which is better?

When selecting an anchor chain for your boat, there are a few things you need to take into consideration. The two main types of chains are stainless steel and galvanised. So, which one should you choose?

Stainless steel anchors are made of high-quality steel that is resistant to rust and corrosion. This means they will last longer than galvanised anchors. They are also a little heavier, which can be a disadvantage when trying to lift them up off the bottom.

Galvanised anchors, on the other hand, are coated with a layer of zinc that protects them from rust and corrosion. This makes them less durable than stainless steel anchors, but they are much lighter in weight. This can be an advantage when trying to manoeuvre them into place.

However, if you live in a dry climate or your boat is stored in a covered area, galvanised chain would be fine. It’s also cheaper than stainless steel chain. If you live in a coastal area or plan to use your boat in salt water, we recommend opting for a stainless steel chain. Galvanised chain is fine for use in fresh water only.

Conclusion of Boat Anchor Chain

Boat anchor chains are an important part of any boat. They keep the boat anchored in one spot and prevent it from drifting. It is important to choose the right chain for your boat and make sure that it is properly attached.

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> > Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on Cruisers Forums. 25-03-2014, 10:22   Boat: Grand Banks M/Y 42 42 loaded it weighs approx 50,000 lbs max. Im a new 40 KG a but i dont want to get involved in a deep debate on types! I dont like causing trouble can hold more but not to much. All input gratefully received. Brian No Ice 25-03-2014, 10:24   recommends 11mm G40 or 8mm G70 for your anchor: 25-03-2014, 11:50   Boat: Norsea 27 . What do you have? BBB or high test are different. It would be costly to change out, if you can get one. Not much difference in 10mm, 3/8 or 11 mm. 25-03-2014, 13:43   Boat: none 25-03-2014, 13:49   like 3/4" or larger. You'll probably be OK 95% of the time with that chain if it's BBB or G4. - Elmore Leonard 25-03-2014, 14:11   Boat: Grand Banks M/Y 42 25-03-2014, 14:15   Boat: Grand Banks M/Y 42 is a Tiger 1200 and i dont know the quality of chain i have only that its galvanised and 10mm 25-03-2014, 14:23   Boat: Grand Banks M/Y 42 , when you look at Rocnas sizing chart i think Im going over the top. My old anchor is a Bruce 30KG and the anchor my was supplied with was a 45lbs , now that was to small. Does anyone else think my anchor size at 40KG is to light for a 42 weighing 50,000 lbs fully loaded? putting a 55KG anchor on may be to large an anchor to fit in the space available. 25-03-2014, 14:45   Boat: none , now that was to small. Does anyone else think my anchor size at 40KG is to light for a Grand Banks 42 weighing 50,000 lbs fully loaded? putting a 55KG anchor on may be to large an anchor to fit in the space available. 25-03-2014, 16:30   Boat: Bestevaer. and also elongation. 10mm G7 chain gives you quite a bit more reserve. It is difficult to get, but it will fit your (providing you get the same type of 10mm chain) and you will have no added weight. This would be my preferred option for your situation. The alternative is 12mm G4 chain. This has considerable extra weight (and volume which will reduce your windlass drop distance) and you will need a new gypsy. With your boat the weight in the bow will not have a big impact, but check the windlass will cope with the load. 10mm G4 chain is about 2.2 kg/m with a working load of 1250kg 10mm G7 chain is about 2.2 kg/m with a working load of 2200kg 12mm G4 chain is about 3.8 kg/m with a working load of 2120kg So 12 mm chain will add about 150kg (330lb) 26-03-2014, 14:28   Boat: Lightwave, Catamaran, 11.5m (38') , Defender and West are all obvious sources but any lifting distributor will know more about chain (and how to get it) than any chandler. If you change chain type, say from BBB to G43, but stick to the same size it is very possible the new chain will not fit the gypsy that was compatible with the old chain. Check first, get a 1m length of the new chain and try it or take your gypsy when you buy the new chain. Its going to be expensive if you get it wrong. Some, many, suppliers of Chinese chain are excellent (Peerless and CMP market Chinese chain) - just buy it from a reputable supplier. Some suppliers of Chinese chain are supplying rubbish. If the supplier is selling something 'unbranded' its for fencing not . Why anyone thinks G7 chain is difficult to buy needs to check. Gal G7 chain is 'easy' to buy all you need is but as you would normally buy a 'smaller' sized G7 link to a G3 or G43 link the differences do level a bit. As you would then need a new gypsy the overall investment rises. You can buy it freely from West who seem to have stores in every city in America, well almost (gal G7 is made specially for them), its branded as ACCO, to imperial sizes and from Maggi in to metric sizes. Maggi deliver into the and have a distributor in NZ who also covers Oz (Chains Ropes and Anchors - or on this forum GMac.). Maggi is freely available in , in the UK Jimmy Green. There are no reports of any issues with G7 chain except that it should not be re-galvanised. Jonathan 26-03-2014, 19:30   Boat: Lightwave, Catamaran, 11.5m (38') factor (possibly because historically it was a Transport Chain) whereas G3 chain WLL is based on a 4:1 factor. There is not one of evidence to suggest G43 is any safer than G3 chain and you would be better looking at the min Break Strength for a true comparison. You will find that some G43 suppliers only quote WLL - I wonder why. Another factor to consider is that sizes are nominal and that 5/16th inch chain of one quality might actually be slightly thinner that a 5/16th inch of another quality. The thicker wire size will give a better performance 9and heavier chain). So it merits checking the actual size specification rather than relying on the nominal size. It merits emphasis that G3 or BBB chain, which has been for a long, long time, has minimal reconrd of failure - which raises the question why the need to buy HT chain - of the same size? If BBB or G3 is perfectly safe - do people have too much ? jonathan 26-03-2014, 22:35   Boat: Ellis Flybridge 28 of evidence to suggest G43 is any safer than G3 chain and you would be better looking at the min Break Strength for a true comparison." I used your safe working load ratios for both G43 and G30 chain and according to your ratios, G43 is actually significantly stronger than G30. Here is the math using 1/4" chain. G30 WWL 1300 lbs X 4 = 5200 lbs Calculated Breaking Load G43 WWL 2600 lbs X 3 = 7800 lbs Calculated Breaking Load "It merits emphasis that G3 or BBB chain, which has been for a long, long time, has minimal reconrd of failure - which raises the question why the need to buy HT chain - of the same size?" You don't need to buy the same size, you can often buy a smaller size G43, have the same strength as a larger size G3 or BBB and save significant weight. As an example, again using your ratio of 4:1 to calculate the breaking strength, 5/16 G3 has a breaking strength of 7600 lbs and it weighs about 112 pounds per 100 feet. BBB actually weighs a little more than G3 because of the shorter links. 1/4" G43 has a breaking strength 200 lbs more than 5/16 G3 and only weighs about 74 pounds per hundred feet. In fact you might even save a couple of bucks by G43 instead of the larger G30. 26-03-2014, 23:11   Boat: Lightwave, Catamaran, 11.5m (38') used min 300 MPa vs min 430 MPa. Frankly it seems daft to reduce chain size from whatever you had for G3 (or BBB) so as to use a lighter G43 - if you want to use your existing windlass as the cost of the new gypsy would be 'extortionate' in terms of the weight saving. Just out of interest, your 1/4 inch G43 with a approx 4t breaking strength - can you buy gal HT shackles to match and fit? Or do you need to have bigger links welded on? If you start off with a new windlass and want to down grade chain size (and are thus not an ardent 'catenary' fan) then moving to G7 seems a much more significant option (matching shackles being an issue). Jonathan 27-03-2014, 06:35   Boat: Bestevaer. Thread Tools Rate This Thread : Posting Rules post new threads post replies post attachments edit your posts is are code is are are are Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post Snowpetrel Engines and Propulsion Systems 19 04-03-2013 18:19 resilientg Plumbing Systems and Fixtures 3 27-09-2012 06:49 For Sale: pressuredrop Classifieds Archive 11 13-02-2012 19:51 set_sail Monohull Sailboats 45 20-01-2011 18:42 irwinsailor Boat Ownership & Making a Living 11 22-06-2006 18:02 No Threads to Display. - - - - - - - Privacy Guaranteed - your email is never shared with anyone, opt out any time. Forums New posts Unanswered threads Register Top Posts Email What's new New posts New Posts (legacy) Latest activity New media Media New media New comments Boat Info Downloads Weekly Quiz Topic FAQ 10000boatnames.com Classifieds Sell Your Boat Used Gear for Sale Parts General Marine Parts Hunter Beneteau Catalina MacGregor Oday Help Terms of Use Monday Mail Subscribe Monday Mail Unsubscribe Anchor chain size Thread starter curlew Start date Apr 11, 2011 Catalina Owner Forums Catalina 310 Have a Maxwell 500 windlass on our Catalina 310 that has a 1/4 inch chain gypsy and a rope capstan as well. The chain size looks small and would like comments on whether i should upgrade to 5/16 chain. Has anyone put a 5/16 chain gypsy on the maxwell 500 winch? cheers Curlew 11 in Tasmania   I think you will find parts for the Maxwell impossible to acquire. I would like to upgrade to a rope/chain gypsy, and have been unsuccessful in finding the kit they used to have for that upgrade. HOWEVER, if you DO find parts, please post here. I think there are a few folks who would be interested. FWIW - I use 35' of 5/16 chain spliced to 200' of 1/2" nylon. Works OK on the rope gypsy alone (sort of). Regards, Jon Freeman C-310 "Summer Sojourn" Tacoma, WA USA   Info here http://www.rocna.com/kb/Chain#Sizing would indicate either 1/4 or 5/16 as suitable depending on your assumptions. I also use 5/16 with nylon on the stock rope (only) gypsy and find it workable.   Thanks for your prompt replies. It is indeed a challenge to buy maxwell parts. It seems they just want us to buy a new winch! I will keep trying and if I have any luck I will post an address.At present we have 5metres of 3/8 chain shackled to 30 metres 1/4 inch chain and then 20 metres rope. I really would prefer to have all 5/16 chain. Its nice to sleep at night. Cheers Curlew11   Curlew Yes I use the chain shown on My Maxwell 500. Well if the anchor isn't set and the anchor doesn't hold...............Good night Johnboy. Wichard long D shackle 1414 breaking load 8,000lbs 1/2' nylon line premium white 3 strand 7500 lbs breaking strength 1/4' HIGH TEST CHAIN swl 2600 lbs Used this chain calculation for wieght 1/4" anchor chain is 113#/100' =1.13 #/ft 58' X 1.13 = 65.54 lbs I also wear rubber gloves while on anchor duty....... paulj :troll:   Attachments ANCHOR chain, rode and shackle loads.txt 281 bytes Views: 283 Thanks Paul J thats what I needed to hear. Someone else is using 1/4 inch chain without problems on a Catalina 310. I guess all I need now is the rubber gloves Cheers Des   curlew said: Thanks for your prompt replies. It is indeed a challenge to buy maxwell parts. It seems they just want us to buy a new winch! I will keep trying and if I have any luck I will post an address.At present we have 5metres of 3/8 chain shackled to 30 metres 1/4 inch chain and then 20 metres rope. I really would prefer to have all 5/16 chain. Its nice to sleep at night. Cheers Curlew11 Click to expand I use 100' of 5/16 chain, with 100' of 5/8" nylon. Tried to buy a conversion kit for the Maxwell 500 that had the chain gypsy. That was a couple of years ago, and Maxwell only had one left. They also wanted $900 for it. So, I'm still anchoring by hand, and the windlass has never been used.   Thanks for your input Tom. I think like you this size of boat needs 5/16 chain,and a 100ft of it. I,m not having any luck obtaining the bigger gypsy,they started off by suggesting a 5/16 gypsy from their new range of winches,but changed their mind,stating that the maxwell 500 would not be stong enough to lift the heavier chain. doesn,t make a lot of sense to me especially if you move the boat fwd under engine power,then just retreive the chain with the winch. I will keep trying . Cheers Des curlew   I've read all of the above comments and you've received the correct advice. To summarize: As to your Maxwell windlass, I have researched the issue extensively. Last year I just replaced my VW 500 (capstan only) with a VWC 500 (gypsey, chainwheel or wildcat, or whatever you want to call it). There used to be a conversion kit but they are no longer available so don't waste your time looking for one. Yes indeed, the Maxwell VWC will not handle a chain greater than 1/4 inch and there is no way of getting around that. I also feel that a 5/16 inch chain would be much more appropriate but I had to make the compromise. The next size up is the Maxwell VWC 1000 (they discontinued the 800) which will accept a 5/16 chain but it does not have the same footprint as the VWC 500, will be harder to install, and weighs twice as much as the VWC 500. I tried to use a 5/16 inch chain on the gypsey of the VCW 500 and it simple will not work. I'm counting on a somewhat oversized anchor to make up for the marginal chain size Good luck Jeff   This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. Accept Learn more… Yacht Sank in Sicily Due to ‘Endless Chain of Errors,' Ship Maker's Owner Speculates: ‘Everything Was Predictable’ "A series of activities should have been done to avoid finding oneself in that situation," argues Giovanni Costantino, who owns the firm that built the vessel in 2008 Giovanni Costantino — who is the CEO of The Italian Sea Group, the company that now owns Perini Navi, which built the  Bayesian  in 2008 — blames an "endless chain of errors" for the luxury yacht’s sinking on Monday, Aug. 19 "Everything was predictable. I have the weather charts in front of me here," Constantino told Italian newspaper  Corriere della Sera  of the storm the boat was caught in "An unsinkable ship but from the crew an endless chain of errors," the CEO claimed to the outlet The sinking of the luxury Bayesian  yacht off the coast of Sicily this week  resulted from an "endless chain of errors" by the crew, the ship maker's CEO is speculating. "This episode sounds like an unbelievable story, both technically and as a fact," Giovanni Costantino — who leads The Italian Sea Group, the company that now owns Perini Navi, which built the  Bayesian  in 2008 — said,  according to CNN . While speaking to  Italian newspaper  Corriere della Sera , Costantino said he believes those on board should not have been in their cabins, as he claims they were, when the Bayesian sank in the early hours of Monday, Aug. 19.  Many details of why the yacht went into the water so quickly remain unclear and it's not yet known what the passengers and crew were doing before tragedy struck. The 183-foot British vessel sank around 5 a.m. local time on Monday after a "violent storm" while near Porticello, the Italian coast guard said in a statement that was previously obtained by PEOPLE. "Everything that has been done reveals a very long sum of errors. The people should not have been in the cabins, the boat should not have been at anchor. And then why didn't the crew know about the incoming disturbance?" Costantino said in his interview, translated from Italian. Related: Italian Authorities Currently Don’t Have Anyone ‘Under Investigation’ over Luxury Yacht Sinking "The passengers reported an absurd thing, namely that the storm came unexpected, suddenly. It's not true. Everything was predictable. I have the weather charts in front of me here. Nothing came suddenly ... Ask yourself, why was no fisherman from Porticello out that night? A fisherman reads the weather conditions and a ship doesn't? The disturbance was fully readable in all the weather charts. One could not not know," he argued. "An unsinkable ship but from the crew an endless chain of errors," the CEO asserted. The coast guard has said 22 people were aboard the  Bayesian  when it sank — 12 passengers and 10 crew — and that 15 of those were subsequently rescued. The body of the yacht's chef, Recaldo Thomas, was recovered nearby.  Costantino's comments came as it was reported that five bodies had been found in the search for the missing six people as of Wednesday, Aug. 21, a source close to the rescue operations confirmed to PEOPLE. Authorities have said that their work is ongoing.  An Italian government official, Massimo Mariani, reportedly named one of the dead as British tech tycoon Mike Lynch . The other bodies have not yet been publicly identified by authorities.  Lynch was celebrating with family and friends on the yacht following his acquittal in a fraud trial in June, PEOPLE previously reported. Related: 'We Are in Shock,' Prominent N.Y.C. Attorney's Firm Says After He and His Wife Go Missing in Yacht Sinking Costantino offered his view of how the tragedy could have been avoided: "To begin with, in a weather alert situation it was inappropriate to have, as I read, a party. Not that evening. The hull and deck needed to be secured by closing all doors and hatches, after putting the guests at the ship's meeting point as per emergency procedure. Then start the engines and pull up the anchor or release it automatically, put the bow to the wind and lower the keel. "The next morning they would have departed with zero damage."  When discussing whether the crew were at fault, Costantino reiterated to the Italian outlet that he believes "errors were made." "A series of activities should have been done to avoid finding oneself in that situation," he said. "I as the ship's captain would have moved, but even if for some reason I had to stay there, I would have managed those weather conditions which then, let's face it, weren't so crazy." Never miss a story — sign up for  PEOPLE's free daily newsletter  to stay up-to-date on the best of what PEOPLE has to offer, from celebrity news to compelling human interest stories.   Costantino contended that there would have been "a zero risk if the correct maneuvers had been made and if situations that compromised the ship's stability had not occurred," adding to the newspaper that reports that the boat went down in seconds is "nonsense." He believes the yacht would have "went down" after water "started to enter" within "six minutes." The remaining missing  Bayesian  passengers are Lynch's daughter Hannah as well as Chairman of Morgan Stanley International  Jonathan Bloomer, his wife, Judy , and New York City-based lawyer  Christopher Morvillo and his wife, Neda , sources have said. Lynch's wife, Angela Bacares, was among those rescued, PEOPLE previously reported. For more People news, make sure to sign up for our newsletter! Read the original article on People . What we know about the sinking of the superyacht off Sicily Medium Text VIOLENT STORM The other boat, 'incomprehensible'. RECORD MAST Retractable keel. Sign up here. Reporting by Giselda Vagnoni, additional reporting by Giulia Segreti, Alvise Armellini, Matteo Negri and Josephine Mason in London; Editing by Sharon Singleton Our Standards: The Thomson Reuters Trust Principles. , opens new tab Drone debris damages homes in Russia's Saratov, governor says Falling debris from drones launched by Ukraine and destroyed by Russian air defence systems damaged homes in two cities of its Saratov region, the regional governor said on Monday. 457 IMAGES Mark Your Chain. Anchors Anchor Chain anchor rope guide size table Rope and Chain Kits Anchor recommendations (some surprising!) for boats on canals which go Boat Anchor Size Chart Ultra Anchor Size Guide COMMENTS Chain Sizing Another issue is matching the gypsy on the windlass to the chain size and type. A windlass gypsy designed for 5/16″ High Test chain will not work on 5/16″ BBB, which has shorter, more compact links. ... Boat Size. 0- 14 feet 1,000 lbs. 14-20 feet 5000 lbs. 20-30 feet 11,000 lbs. 30-35 feet 15,000 lbs. 35-40 feet 20,000 lbs. 40-45 feet ... Anchor Chain and Rope Size Guide Anchor Chain Size Rule of Thumb. There is an old rule of thumb that dates back many years, which states a requirement of 1/8" chain diameter for every 9 or 10 feet of boat length - with approximate metric conversions: e.g. 1/4" now available as 6mm DIN766 chain would be up to 20 or 23 feet Yacht LOA, 7mm DIN766 chain would be up to 23 or 27 ... How To Measure Your Anchor Chain Size (Two Ways) Round your boat length up to the nearest length overall in the table and do the same for your beam. Then choose the largest chain indicated by either of those numbers. If you have a thirty-four-foot boat with a ten-foot beam, your suggestions are 3/8" (from rounding 34 to 35) and 5/16". Making Sense of Marine Chain Standards The most common chain grades used for anchor rodes on recreational boats are G30, G40, G43, and G70. Chain marked as G30, G40, or G43 is made from carbon, or mild, steel. Chains denoted as G70 are heat-treated steel, commonly quenched and tempered (the same process used for some anchor shanks). Quench and tempered steels are made to specific ... Anchor Chain Sizing Anchor Chain Sizing. Step 1 - Determine the length of your boat. The boat's specification sheet, and sometimes the owner's manual, will have your boat length listed. However, if you're unsure of your boat length, measure the hull, from the tip of the bow to the center of the stern. Be certain to use a measuring tape that will not ... How To Mark & Measure Anchor Chain & Rode (3 Ways) Then pull out the chain, putting the anchor at the first mark then stretching it out straight between the marks, turning it at each mark to measure each "unit" while flaking the chain back and forth on the work surface. Make sure the chain dries completely if you've used it recently, then make your surface preparations. The Ultimate Guide To Anchors And Anchor Chain Boat Size. As a rule, your anchor chain should be at least as long as your boat, but no shorter than 10 to 15-feet. Your anchor line length will depend on anchoring depth. If you will be anchoring in deeper water, you will need enough rode to achieve a proper scope ratio. The rule of thumb is to plan 8-feet of line per 1-foot of anchoring depth ... Anchor Chain Calculator A more powerful version of this online app, that can also do a mix of chain and rope, can be found on Apple Store and Google Play. The free anchorchaincalculator web app allows you to calculate the anchor load and the minimally required chain length based on your vessel's characteristics as well as sea and weather conditions. Chain size and length, explained These sizes refer to ANSI (American National Standards Institute) Roller Chain Standard chain dimensions. #50 chain has a 5/8" pitch (measure from center of one roller link to another) and a width of 3/8" between links (measured inside the chain). #60 chain has a 3/4" pitch and a .5" width. These two dimensions are called out as "P" and "B1" in ... How to Choose Your Anchor Chain Chain Size This depends on the grade you choose, your yacht length, windage, and displacement, your anticipated cruising plans, and your corresponding reliance on anchoring. In Europe, we have metric sizing in 1mm or 2mm increments, e.g. 6mm, 7mm, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 14mm. Anchor Selection: A Guide to Types and Sizes Consult manufacturer guidelines on their recommendations for anchor sizing based on boat length. Chain and Rode Size. The anchor rode, which connects your boat to the anchor, is critical for holding power. The scope, typically measured in a ratio of the rode's length to the water's depth, is an important factor for the anchor's ... How to Pick an Anchor Rope Size, Type, Length and More When selecting how much rope and chain you need there are a couple of rules of thumb to use. You should have 8 feet of rope for every 1 foot of water you will be anchoring in. Your rope should have 1/8" of rope diameter for every 9' of boat. So this means a 28' boat would want at least a 3/8" or 1/2" diameter rope. How Much Anchor Chain Should You Let Out When Anchoring? Typically: 4 to 5 times the complete anchoring depth. Lunch hook: 3 times the complete anchoring depth. Bad weather: 5 to 7 times the complete anchoring depth. Use a smaller scope when the anchorage is crowded or has restricted space. The complete anchoring depth is the total depth at high tide + the height of the anchor roller from the waterline. Is your anchor chain up the job? ANCHOR CHAIN. As a rough guide to the right size chain for your boat, in 8mm Grade 30 chain is sufficient for boats up to about 37ft, 10mm up to 45ft and 12mm above that, but the displacement of the boat is an additional factor. There is also clearly a difference in the chain needed for weekend pottering and extended high-latitude cruising. What anchor chain length is needed to keep your boat secure? 10m. 11m. 44m. 24m. 68m. For a 12m boat carrying a 20kg anchor, 70m of 10mm chain is probably as much weight as you'd want in your anchor locker, but this would still give you a 4:1 scope in 15m (50ft) depth of water. Which is why on Alacazam (11.5m loa) we have a 20kg Rocna anchor, 70m of 10mm HT chain, and a further 30m of multiplait anchor ... Selecting the Right Anchor Size Much to our surprise, the weight recommendations for the new designs, Rocna, Excel, Supreme, etc. are very similar to the weight recommendation for the older, traditional models, CQR, Delta, Bruce etc. In both cases, the recommendation for a 35-foot yacht is approximately a 30-pound anchor. The exceptions are aluminum anchors from Fortress and ... Anchor Sizing Anchor Sizing. When sizing an anchor or anchor rode, it's useful to have starting point and to think of the whole system. This is a table developed by American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) to approximate the expected load on the anchor and the anchor rode for given wind speed and boat length. The complete table appears in Section H-40 of ... Boat Anchor Chain The right size chain will help you set your anchor quickly and keep it in place. It's also important to use a chain that is strong enough to hold your boat in place during high winds and rough seas. The most common size for boat anchor chains is 5/16 inch. This size is strong enough to hold most boats in place, but it's also lightweight and ... Selecting an Anchor Rode Use shackles one size larger than the chain (1/4" chain would use 5/16" shackles) In general the load on an anchor line varies with the square of the LOA of the boat. A high windage, heavy displacement boat such as a trawler or fishing boat will require heavier anchor rode than an ultra-light racing sailboat of the same LOA. Which size and type of chain? 10mm G4 chain is about 2.2 kg/m with a working load of 1250kg. 10mm G7 chain is about 2.2 kg/m with a working load of 2200kg. 12mm G4 chain is about 3.8 kg/m with a working load of 2120kg. So 12 mm chain will add about 150kg (330lb) 26-03-2014, 14:28. # 11. Recomended anchor chain and rode Horses for courses, and the big boat answer is not better for the smaller boat. As for the OP (30' mono), 1/4 G4 (2600-pound WLL) is all the chain the needs, particularly when coupled with 1/2-inch nylon. ABYC only calls for 1400-pound WLL. A modern (Spade/Rocna/ Mantus/Manson Supreme) 25-pound anchor should do fine. Correct Chain Size Seems that the more places you look, the more answers you get. I would like to know the proper chain size for a 45' sloop, weight approx. 26K. Would appreciate your feedback?\u000BThanks\u000B\u000BAndy Anchor chain size The chain size looks small and would like comments on whether i should upgrade to 5/16 chain. Has anyone put a 5/16 chain gypsy on the maxwell 500 winch? cheers ... Thanks for your input Tom. I think like you this size of boat needs 5/16 chain,and a 100ft of it. I,m not having any luck obtaining the bigger gypsy,they started off by suggesting a ... Yacht Sank in Sicily Due to 'Endless Chain of Errors,' Ship ... Giovanni Costantino — who is the CEO of The Italian Sea Group, the company that now owns Perini Navi, which built the Bayesian in 2008 — blames an "endless chain of errors" for the luxury ... Sicily wreck: Why did Bayesian yacht sink in 16 minutes? Mr Lynch had brought together family, friends and colleagues for an idyllic holiday on his luxury boat: a sumptuous 56-metre (184ft) sailing yacht that won design awards and had the world's ... What we know about the sinking of the superyacht off Sicily The Bayesian, a British flagged 56-metre (184-feet) superyacht, sank in the dark shortly before 5 am (0300 GMT) off the port of Porticello, near Palermo, after being hit by a "violent storm," the ... catamaran gulet motorboat powerboat riverboat sailboat trimaran yacht