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Boat-Heating Options

There are plenty of ways to extend the season and keep a cosy cabin, ranging from simple to complex. here's a view of the solution range..

A definite correlation exists between the degree to which we are warm and dry, and the enjoyment of a sail, or a night at anchor. A damp and chilly environment may be exacerbated by a poorly insulated hull, leaks, and sweating. Sitting beneath a drippy port or headliner, or curling up in a damp bunk, just isn’t fun.

Your boat can be matched to a heating system that, at one end of the spectrum, will simply prevent the formation of icicles or, at the other, provide a space as warm as that den at home. Sources range from electric “cubes” and oil-filled radiators plugged in dockside, to hanging lamps, to the nautical equivalent of central heating. Cost ranges from almost nothing to the limits of your credit card, notwithstanding the recapture of part of the initial cost when the boat is sold.

We last covered this topic in the September 1997 issue. While many of the options remain the same, there have been a few new twists in the intervening six years. So here’s the updated overview.

Health Issues and Background There are two related dangers in heating a boat with any kind of fossil-based fuel. The first is the chance of producing and/or concentrating carbon monoxide in the living spaces. As we know, CO will kill us straightaway. The second is complacency in assuming that we have the CO angle covered adequately. The more the brain is deprived of oxygen, the less able it is to understand what’s happening to it. So, proper ventilation of living spaces aboard a heated boat, no matter what type of system is used, no matter whether it’s vented outboard or via portholes and companionway, is absolutely vital.

Heat for a physical space is typically measured and reported in British Thermal Units, or Btu. (Heat produced by the energy of the human body is measured in calories.) A Btu is the amount of heat energy required to raise the temperature of 1 pound of water 1 Fahrenheit. Determining what type of heater is best for you involves considering the characteristics of fuels (see accompanying table), the hardware options to run it; where the hardware will be on board; how to strike a balance between insulation and ventilation; your own tolerance of (if not liking for) cold temperatures; and the weather in which you plan to be afloat.

Fuel Types Small electric heaters are handy for taking the chill off a boat in the morning, evaporating dew that may accumulate on the overhead when bodies sleep below, or on a chilly evening.

When your cold-weather travels extend beyond the marina, however, so do the requirements for a different system. Beyond the output of the heating system, a primary consideration is the capacity to carry fuel for the duration of a voyage, and the availability of fuel in destination ports. Generally, towing a barge loaded with crude oil is not a viable option. Thus, choices become diesel, kerosene, propane (LPG), natural gas (CNG), wood, coal, pellet fuel, alcohol, or charcoal. Of the options, diesel and kerosene are the most readily available. Propane is also easy to find. CNG is not. Good stove alcohol is available in chandleries, and is convenient if you’re already running an alcohol stove-but it’s not the fuel of choice for serious systems.

In temperate climes, a simple oil or kerosene lamp will take the edge off the chill well into autumn. Using deodorized kerosene eliminates the odor of the fuel. However, an excess of fuel produces smoke, ruins the wick, and creates a housekeeping chore. Since kerosene produces four gallons of water vapor per gallon of fuel, not an insignificant amount, lamps require good venting, and quite a bit of heat goes out the window, literally. They are, however, romantic.

How to determine how much heat you need? One method is to determine the average of the water and outdoor temperatures during the coldest months. Then, assume that 700 cubic feet of interior volume requires 3,000 Btu to maintain a temperature 25 higher than that average. However, there really are too many variables involved to put much stock in a formula like that. Boats, people, and locales all differ far too much, and what’s comfortable enough for one person will be misery for another.

Again, for many who spend an occasional day or night aboard in chilly weather, simple oil lamps, bolstered by a good fleece pullover and warm shoes, will often suffice. One of us, for example, heated the main cabin of a Hans Christian 34 while anchored at several Pacific Coast harbors from early fall until mid-winter with an Aladdin lamp suspended overhead. But many people wouldn’t have been comfortable in that cabin. Another lived aboard at City Island, NY, completely frozen in one winter for over a month, with temperatures never rising above about 20 F. In those temperatures, the oil-filled electric radiator couldn’t begin to keep up. That was a winter when most of the liveaboards gathered daily to splice the main brace aboard a Whitby 42 with diesel heat.

In order to get truly adjustable comfort, or to equip a boat to stand up against serious elements, a fixed system will be required. We could then divide those systems into two subsets-ones that carry heat around the boat by means of pipes or ducting, (e.g. that Whitby) and those with a strong central heat source (e.g. a fireplace) and fans to move the air into the far reaches of the boat.

Moving the Heat Nothing is more efficient than radiant heat produced by the sun, or a heat source that directly affects the area to which it is exposed. However, while sitting in direct sunlight on a cold or damp deck, your nose may be toasty while moss grows on your posterior.

The same is true belowdecks. Few boats are well-insulated, and whatever warmth is developed below on a cold night tends to be exchanged at a fast rate for the chilly stuff.

Here’s a scenario that will be familiar to many: The air temperature in the harbor is 40 F. and there’s a wet wind blowing at 12 knots. The water temperature is 46 F. You’re sitting in the main cabin right next to your main heat source (a wood stove, an electric radiator, whatever). Your head and torso are hot. Your hands are warm. Your feet are cold. The forepeak is cold. The aft cabin is cold. The head is cold. You lean outboard and put your feet up. Within a minute, your head is cold and your feet are hot.

You may have an excellent source of heat and a lot of Btus, but this is what life will generally be like in cold weather if you have no method to circulate warm air into occupied spaces efficiently. Options include units mounted on bulkheads that rely on fans; ducted systems with outlets in living and sleeping quarters; and heat produced by the circulation of warm fluids to a heat exchanger.

Small Electric Heaters There are dozens of these on the market, so we’ll just mention a few. This type of heater is most appropriate for the heating of small spaces, or replacing a light bulb that once served as a boat dehumidifier during winter months. The simplest solution is a portable unit equipped with a fan. Add a thermostat and the heater may be left running during winter months to prevent the formation of frost belowdecks, and may prevent the accumulation of ice on the deck. We had good luck heating a 36-foot race boat in San Francisco and the Pacific Northwest using this method.

Caframo’s Turbo Heater, and its lookalikes, are traditional electric heaters. The newest Caframo units have separate switches that control temperature and fan speed, though designating heat output is measured on a scale of 1-4, rather than by a thermostat. A new wrinkle is an “anti- freeze setting” that automatically activates the unit when the temperature reaches 38 F. A disadvantage of these units is that they blow heat in only one direction. Suggested retail is typically $60-70.

We found the Holmes One-Touch ($99 on sale) at a hardware store. Not exactly a household name, knockoffs are marketed under several brand names. This electric unit is equipped with a two-speed fan, has fixed and oscillating capacities, and temperature settings between 60-80 F in 5- degree increments. It’s an excellent alternative to the fixed unit.

It is unlikely you’ll find the Back Seat Plus (model 3000) manufactured by ThermTech in a chandlery, since it’s primary use is as a back seat heater for vans and sports ‘utes. Nonetheless, this 12-volt unit, which is equipped with a quartz heat cell, produces 1,100 Btu and is thermostatically controlled. It will be handy when heating smaller spaces, like the V- berth on a 25-footer, when connected to a long wire harness.

Equipped with a swivel bracket, it can be mounted where heat is needed, and is only 5″ x 7.75″ x 8.25″. Suggested retail price is $150.

Alcohol Heaters The Origo Heat Pal is an alcohol-fueled heater that has been on the market for a long time in various models, and Origo has become the company most closely associated with alcohol cooking and heating in the marine world. This heater isn’t very sophisticated-it just provides a relatively safe place to burn the fuel. It need not be permanently mounted, and would serve well for the occasional warming effort, especially if your primary stove fuel is alcohol. Just remember to ventilate well, expect some condensation, and buy the best alcohol you can find, to reduce odor. Despite its wide base, we’d be reluctant to use it underway. Retail price is $147.

Cook Stoves and Fans Unless you’re desperate to prevent the formation of icicles on the headliner, a cookstove should not be used as a source of heat. An open flame is not particularly effective and creates a fire hazard. We should mention, however, that many people over the years have reported success in warming cabins by upending ceramic flower pots (vented) over a burner flame set on low. Again, much depends on how you circulate the resulting heat.

If you’re considering this method, have a look at the Wallas Safeflame 800+210 and 125 DP/DU, which offer no-flame operation and convert a stove to a forced-air heater by lowering a lid that becomes a ceramic surface. These units are most common in the gallies of small powerboats. As heaters, they are pricey; as an option for a combined stove and heater, less so, and compact. The kerosene-fueled 800+210 unit develops 4,000 Btu at a cost of $875; the 125 DP/DU, which is diesel-powered, 6,000 Btu at $1,350.

Solid Fuel Stoves Beyond their functionality, these units usually make lovely additions to a wood-paneled saloon. They may be fueled by wood, coal, charcoal, or pellet fuel, but the downside is that they don’t fuel themselves. Therefore, the trade-off for a small combustion chamber is likely to be a few stoking sessions in the middle of the night.

While free-standing models exist, these stoves should be mounted on a bulkhead, and they’re more efficient when equipped with a fan.

Installation involves placement of a stovepipe/chimney, usually 3″ in diameter, for proper ventilation. The pipe, and the weatherproof cap atop it abovedecks, are called a Charlie Noble. Though Charlie may be a shiny accent piece, he also can burn gear or canvas left close to his cap.

These stoves require a high degree of maintenance, since the buildup of tar and soot in the stovepipe are a by-product of the fuel used.

The Paul E. Luke company’s tile fireplaces have fireboxes fabricated from plate, which reduces the potential for leakage at square-cut joints. An option is an LPG burner with an automatic shut-offactivated when the flame is extinguished.

However, Frank Luke says, “The most popular versions are still thesolid-fuel units. We currently have some uncommonly beautiful Virginia soapstone which has a nice fine grain and interesting marbling. The most popular models are the polished brass units. They need to be polished regularly, so my father said ‘that’s the other way they keep you warm.'”

Prices for 24″ tall units range from $1,549 for Soapstone to $1,795 for solid brass or stainless steel.

Liquid Fuel Fireplaces The alternatives to solid-fueled units are fueled by kerosene, diesel, or LPG. Most use a drip form of burner, and fuel flow is regulated by a needle valve. Plumbing a unit from the boat’s fuel tank simplifies storage. Force 10 and Dickinson Marine share the majority of the market here.

Dickinsons Newport P9000, the most traditional model, is fueled by diesel or kerosene and produces 3,100 -4300 Btu. A recent upgrade for sailboats adds the option to convert to propane with a unit that may be mounted higher on a bulkhead than older models. A built-in blower fan directs air downward to maximize circulation. Turn on the fan and the range increases from 5,500 to 7,500 Btu. The company recently added the model P12000, which has output ranging from 4,000 to 9, 700 Btu. Some models are equipped with an electric spark ignition and automatic gas flow shut-off to prevent the flow of fuel if the flame is extinguished; some are available with thermostats, others with a forced-air blower.

Depending upon fuel type, the P9000 retails for $691-$710; the P12000 for $796. A solid-fuel unit retails for $344.

Force 10 also offers liquid-fueled units with automatic starting. These automatically shut off when the oxygen content of the cabin drops below 95% of normal, a real plus.

The company’s Direct Vent Cabin Heater (model 13000) outputs 4,000-9,000 Btu using propane; it is priced at $840. The Model 10000 Cozy Cabin Heater is a smaller version, also powered by propane, that produces 6,000 Btu, weighs only 11 pounds, and retails for $480. A near twin, the model 10004 is fueled by diesel or kerosene, with the same Btu rating. It requires a pressurized fuel source (like a bicycle pump) and must be preheated with alcohol before use-both inconveniences. Suggested retail is $415.

The only shortcoming of this type of unit is that it lacks the circulatory ability to prevent big fluctuations in temperature from cabin to cabin.

Since both companies are bastions of the industry, and their current products the result of an evolutionary process, choosing between the two may be a function of evaluating the space in which the unit will be installed, cost per Btu, and appearance.

Forced Air and Water Systems In operation, these bear a striking resemblance to the units used in houses. A typical unit is fitted with an electrically powered fuel pump, flame ignition device, forced draft combustion chamber and heat exchanger, fuel metering pump, and integrated control unit. Hot air is circulated via flex tubes to vents, generally in the saloon and staterooms. The effectiveness of the systems is determined by the power of the heater, and distance to vents. The newest units on the marketplace take up surprisingly little space, are easily mounted, and may be coupled to an existing fuel source. Their greatest disadvantages are initial cost and the amount of space they take up.

Picking the right unit involves a critical evaluation of the boat’s power system to compare the amount of additional electricity necessary to operate a heater’s fuel pump and blower to existing demands for energy.

The market is dominated by Espar, Webasto, Ardic, and Wallas-European companies represented by American distributors. Of the group, only Wallas and Ardic manufacture heaters designed specifically for the marine industry. Espar, for instance, enjoys great acceptance in the marine market, though 60% of the company’s business is in the trucking industry.

Since our last review, Espar’s new generation of forced-air heaters are 21% lighter, and smaller, and have 40% fewer parts. The models heretofore most commonly found on sailboats, the D1LC compact air heater and D3LC, have been replaced by the Airtronic D2 Air Heater, which produces 2,000 Btu to 7,500 Btu in “boost” mode, and the Airtronic D4, which doubles the Btu output. The D2 weighs only 6 pounds; the DS 9.9 pounds.

Webasto also introduced several new models since our last review. The Air Top Series is designed for use in boats 28 feet and larger, and produces 2,000-18,000 Btu. New features are the elimination of glow plugs, more efficient combustion chambers, reduced noise, and built-in diagnostics program.

The AT3500 ($1,555), designed for use with 28-34 foot boats, includes a central thermostat with automatic shutoff. Heat runs are through 24 mm flexible tubing. Total runs should not exceed 30 feet.

The newest Wallas models are the 30D and 40D Nautic forced-air diesel heaters, which produce from 2,700 to 14,000 Btu. Both are compact, weighing only 20-22 pounds, and requiring 12″ of vertical height, plus plumbing, and consuming 1/4-1/2 gallon of fuel per hour. Improvements are a cleaner burning combustion system; the small unit has a thermostat, the larger an adjustable heat range with optional thermostat. The 30D is priced at $1,850; the 40D at $2,150.

Though seen less often on sailboats, an option to circulating warm air is a system that circulates heated fluids to heat exchangers. Heated fluid is transferred from a combustion chamber through a sealed loop routed to various parts of the vessel. At each location, a heat exchanger equipped with a small blower provides a flow of heated air. This type of installation is often easier on a smaller boat than finding room for an air duct.

In addition to Btu, a key measurement is the rate at which water flows through the boat, called “water throughput,” which is measured in gallons per hour. A second measurement is fuel consumption, compared to alternative heating methods.

In addition to producing clean heat, these systems generally offer two additional advantages: hot water from the heater can be plumbed into the heat exchanger of an existing hot water heater, thus also producing hot water for galley and head. In cold climes, the hot water may be used to heat the boat’s engine block, easing starting and reducing the draw on batteries.

Espar’s Hydronic line of coolant heaters have outputs ranging from 5,500 Btu to 120,000 Btu, which might be adequate to heat the Endeavour. An advantage is that all of the components, excepting external plumbing, are essentially self-contained, and have 2 to 4 cycle levels to maintain a constant water temperature. The Hydronic D4, for example, which may be powered by diesel or kerosene, produces 13,700 Btu in boost mode, and circulates 132 gallons per hour. The Wallas Ardic 952-DW produces 16,000 Btu in passive mode, which doubles when the engine is running. But heat comes at a price: a system with a diesel- fueled heater with water and fuel pump, control unit, and three-speed blower costs $2,650.

Conclusions It is impossible to measure the cost of being uncomfortable in dollars, but it is possible to measure the cost of a heater system. First, determine the cost of the heater unit/combustion chamber. Add the cost of piping, ducting, heat exchangers, wiring, Mr. Noble, and the like. Then add the cost of installation. Even if you’re capable of installing the heater, we recommend hiring an expert who will help evaluate your boat’s requirements, develop an installation plan, and provide a list of required tools. When the project is completed, the technician should examine the system before first use.

Also With This Article Click here to view “Fuel Characteristics.” Click here to view “What Installers Say About Heating Systems.” Click here to view “Specifications: Selected Heaters.”

Contacts Ardic, Wallas, 888/606-6665; www.scanmarineusa.com . Caframo, 800/223-7266; www.caframo.com . Dickinson Marine, 800/659-9768; www.dickinsonmarine.com . Espar Heater Systems, 800/387-4800; www.espar.com . Force 10 Marine, 800/663-8515; www.force10.com . Paul E. Luke, 207/633-4971; www.peluke.com . Origo, 941/355-4488; www.origo-sweden.com . Therm-Tech, 616/530-6540; www.therm-tech.com . Webasto/Sure Marine Service, 800/562-7797; www.suremarine.com .

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

Having trouble with my steering it is a hydraulic steering which has been blead I am thinking my brother maybe too small for the size of the boat I have a 36 foot Taiwanese troll can anybody advise

See if you have a small seal or line leak. I have had my ram and healm rebuilt and it fixed my problem.

I want to share my experience with a thermostat controlled oil filled radiant electric heater. It performed flawlessly on board for the entirety of 3 or 4 years while in marinas on the NW Pacific coast, preventing mildew and fungal growth during winter with no one aboard and for comfort at other times of the year when people were on board. However, one night while I was on board, I was awoken by a very acrid odor and found the cabin filled with dense smoke. After escaping to the cockpit to get air, I went back down into the main cabin, turned on the overhead lights and found the odor and smoke coming from the heater. The electric power cord to the heater was not hot and no circuit breaker had been triggered. In the morning I found that a small area of the metal jacket had rusted through, allowing ambient air to mix with the oil where the heat electrode makes contact with the passive circulation of the oil. Judging by the smoke and the odor, I think it was very near the point of combustion and quite likely would have started the boat on fire, or at the very least could have resulted in my death by asphyxiation, had I not awoken in time. My thoughts on how this happened is that in a cool humid salty air environment, each time the thermostat prompts the unit to turn off, the salty humidity in the ambient air begins to cool, allowing salt water vapor to condense onto the metal surface of the heater until the thermostat turns the heater back on. But each time it heats back up, it leaves a thin film of crusted salt that attracts moisture and this process leaves more and more salt deposit by repetition, over and over again. So, my opinion on preventing this from occurring to anyone else is that this type of heater used on a boat, particularly where exposed to salty air, should be routinely inspected for rust and wiped down with a clean cloth dampened with fresh water. And, even without visible rust, the unit should be removed from service on the boat after a period of two years on board, whether used continuously or not. For improved safety I now use an electric dehumidifier, setting the humidistat to turn on at aprox 40% relative humidity. The unit has a fan that circulates cabin air at about 75 degrees F and produces condensed water that drains from the unit via a hose into the sink which has the only thru-hull valve on the boat that I leave open and the double all-stainless hose clamps get inspected for rust before leaving the boat unattended for the winter.

Steve, sounds like a thin wall on the heater or a defective product. I have used these same heater onboard for years and in the house. They are inspected regularly and have had no problems other than replacing a rocker switch.

Great article, hope I won`t need heat much longer.

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When considering the tent wood stoves for use in a canvas tent there are several critical factors to consider.  Safety, efficiency, and suitability for your camping needs are critical. Here are the most important factors:  1.  Size and Heating Capacity:  Ensure that the wood stove for your tent is appropriately sized for your canvas tent. Consider the stove's heating capacity to make sure it can provide sufficient warmth for the size of tent in all expected possible weather conditions. 2.  Weight and Portability:  If you plan on moving your canvas tent frequently,  consider lightweight and portable tent stoves. All stove models should be designed for camping and can be disassembled for easy transport.  3.  Ventilation:  Proper ventilation is crucial when using a stove in an enclosed space. Any tent you purchase must have a stove jack for the stovepipe. The tent stove jack must be suited for the canvas tent wood stove purchased. 4.  Material and Build Quality:  Choose a canvas tent stove made from durable and heat resistant materials. High-quality steel stove is a common choice. A well built heavier stove will last longer and provide better performance. 5.  Safety Features:  Look for safety features such as spark arrestors to prevent sparks from escaping and stable legs to prevent tipping for safe operation. A stove must also have built-in dampers for better control of airflow.  6.  Ease of Assembly and Use:   Consider how easy the canvas tent stove is to assemble and use. Look for models with simple designs that are quick to set up, especially if you'll be camping in cold weather.  7.   Cooking Functionality:  If you plan to cook on the wall tent stove, choose a model with a flat surface or a cooking grate. Some stoves have ovens as an option.   8.  Compatibility with Tent:  Ensure the stove is compatible with your canvas tent. Some tents are designed with stove jacks or sleeves to accommodate stove pipes.  9.  Cost:  Consider your budget when selecting a canvas tent stove. Prices can vary based on the stove's size, material and additional features.  Taking the time to carefully assess these factors will help you choose a wall tent  stove that suits your camping needs while ensuring safety and efficiency in a canvas tent environment. 

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WHAT ARE THE SAFETY REQUIREMENTS FOR A TENT WOOD STOVE IN A CANVAS TENT?

Using a tent stove in a canvas tent can be a practical and enjoyable way to stay warm during camping trips in cold weather. However, there are several factors to consider to ensure safety, efficiency, and a positive camping experience. Here are some detailed factors to keep in mind.

1.  Tent Stove Size and Ventilation: Ensure that your canvas tent is appropriately sized for the wood stove. A larger tent may require a more powerful stove to adequately heat the space. Good ventilation. Make sure your tent has proper vents and consider leaving a small opening in the tent door or window for fresh air circulation.  2.  Stove Size and Heat Output: Choose a tent stove that is suitable for the size of your tent. Stoves come in various sizes and heat outputs. Select one that matches the dimensions and insulation of your canvas tent. 3.  Stove Material and Construction: Look for stoves made of durable materials like steel or cast iron. These materials can withstand high temperatures and are less prone to rusting. Check for a spark arrestor to prevent embers from escaping the stove and potentially causing a fire hazard. 4.  Installation and Clearances: Ensure that the stove is set up on a stable, non flammable surface and maintain proper clearances from tent walls and other combustible materials.  5.  Fire Safety: Have a fire extinguisher and a carbon monoxide detector in the tent for added safety.  Avoid leaving the stove unattended. Be cautious when loading wood to prevent sparks from escaping.  6.  Fuel: Use only dry, seasoned wood for the stove. Wet or green wood can create excessive smoke, reduce efficiency and contribute to creosote buildup in the stovepipe.  7.  Stovepipe Installation: Install the stovepipe with care, ensuring it is securely connected to the stove and vented through the tent wall or roof. A well-installed stovepipe helps with efficient combustion and minimizes the risk of smoke entering the tent.  8.  Weather Conditions: Consider the weather conditions when using a tent wood stove. Hight winds can affect stove performance and increase the risk of sparks. Use a windscreen if necessary.  9.  Tent Floor Protection:  Place a non-combustible material, such as a heat-resistant stove mat or fireproof fabric, under the stove to protect the tent floor from heat.  Always prioritize safety when using  a tent wood stove, every year hunters and campers burn down their tents. 

WHAT ARE THE COMPONENTS OF A TENT STOVE?

Tent stoves are a crucial component of cold-weather camping setups, providing warmth, a means of cooking and often serving as the focal point of social interaction within the tent. Here's a detailed explanation of hot tent stoves:  Components of a Tent Stove: 1.  Firebox: Material: The firebox is typically made of steel or cast iron, chosen for its durability and heat-retention properties.  Design: the firebox design allows efficient combustion of wood producing heat for the tent. It often has a door for loading wood and adjusting airflow.  2.  Chimney: Material: Chimneys are usually made of steel or stainless steel to withstand high temperatures.  Length: The length of the chimney depends on the height of the tent. It extends through the stove jack in the tent to expel smoke outside while preventing sparks from contacting the tent fabric.  3.  Stovepipe Sections: Connectivity: Stove pipes come in sections that can be easily assembled. They are designed to fit together securely, forming a continuous passage for smoke to exit.  4.  Dampers: Airflow Control: Tent wood stoves often feature dampers to control the airflow, regulating the intensity of the fire. This is crucial for optimizing combustion efficiency and managing heat output. 5.  Spark Arrestor:  Prevention: A spark arrestor is a mesh screen at the top of the chimney. It prevents sparks or embers from escaping and reduces the risk of starting unintended fires in the surrounding area.  6.  Legs or stands:  Elevation: Stoves may have legs or a stand to elevate them above the tent floor. This provides airflow underneath, preventing the tent floor from overheating and potentially melting.  Types of Tent Stoves:   1.  Traditional Tent Wood Stoves:  Fuel: These stoves burn wood as their primary fuel source. They are efficient and offer a classic camping experience, requiring users to gather and split wood for fuel. 2.  Portable Backpacking Tent Stoves: Compactness: Designed for backpacking, these stoves are compact, lightweight, and easy to assemble. They may use wood or other solid fuels and are suitable for solo or small group camping. 3.  Stoves with Cooking Surfaces: Integration: Some tent stoves come with a flat cooking surface on the top. This feature allows users to cook meals or boil water directly on the stove, eliminating the need for a separate camp stove.

CAN A PERSON COOK ON TOP OF A TENT STOVE?

Cooking on top of a tent wood stove can be a convenient and enjoyable experience. Especially when camping in cold weather. However, there are several factors and considerations you should keep in mind to ensure safety and efficiency:   Practice Cooking at Home: Regardless of which tent wood stove you purchase it is important to practice at home. Start on something simple and then progress.  Find the Hot Spot:  The tent stove temperature on the stove top varies. Close to the stove pipe is normally the best location for cooking.  Where there is a large build up of coals inside the fire box is another good location for cooking. Remember, most of the heat making the stove top hot is from hot coals, not the flames. Use a thermometer to check temperatures at different stove top locations.  Quality of Firewood: Always   try to use dry hard wood.  Wood that is not dry will smoke and not emit much heat. Soft woods will burn quickly and are not efficient. If you are cutting down dead trees be very careful and always have a spotter. Every year people get killed as the top of the dead tree can easily break off, known as the widow maker. The widow maker kills people every year, Rich. Controlling Temperature of Stove Top:  Temperature on top of stove depends on how much wood is in the stove and how much air intake is open allowing air into the stove. It will take time to learn how much wood is required and the proper air intake adjustment to cook different meals.   Preheat Stove: Preheat stove before starting cooking. It is best to have a thermometer to check stove top temperature.  Make adjustment in air intake to adjust to desired temperature.  Cooking Times Will be Longer than at Home: Be patient. Cooking on tent wood stoves will take longer and require more expertise than cooking on electric or gas stoves.  Cooking on top of tent stove without Pots or Pans: Some campers like to cook on the stove top. The stove top has a much larger cooking surface. The stove top will have different temperatures so plan accordingly. A draw back of cooking on the stove top will be additional odors and smells in your tent.  Cooking involves some type of cooking oil on top of the stove which cannot be avoided. Additionally, after stove top use the top must be cleaned. There will be a continuing odor as the cooking oil and food cooked remnants will continue to smell as long as the tent wood stove burns.    Stove Size and Capacity:  Ensure that the stove is large enough to accommodate your cooking needs. Consider the size of your pots and pans and whether they can fit on the stove's surface without the risk of tipping over. Stability:  Make sure the stove is stable and securely set up. An unstable cooking surface can be dangerous, particularly in a confined space like a tent. Ventilation:  Cooking on a wood stove generates heat and gases, and it's crucial to have adequate ventilation to allow these gases to escape. Fire Safety:  Be mindful of fire safety. Keep flammable materials, such as clothing and sleeping bags, away from the stove. Be cautious when adding wood to the stove to avoid sparks. Cookware Selection:  Use cookware that is suitable for tent wood stove cooking. Cast iron and stainless steel are good choices as they can withstand high heat. Avoid non-stick pans, as they may release harmful fumes at high temperatures. Heat Control:  Get accustomed to controlling the heat of the wall tent stove. Unlike a gas stove with instant temperature adjustments, a tent wood stove takes time to respond to changes in airflow and fuel. Fuel Management:  Manage your fuel efficiently. Ensure you have enough firewood or other suitable fuel for cooking. Keep in mind that cooking may require more constant attention to maintain a consistent heat. Cooking Time: Tent wood stoves take longer to cook food compared to traditional stovetops. Plan accordingly and be patient with the cooking process. Cleaning:  Regularly clean the stove and remove ash buildup. A clean stove operates more efficiently and reduces the risk of fire. Location of the Stove:  Place the stove in a suitable location within the tent. Make sure it is away from walls and other flammable materials. Consider using a stovepipe heat shield if the stove is close to the tent fabric.  Weather Considerations:  Be aware of weather conditions. Wind can affect the performance of the stove. Rain or snow may impact your ability to collect dry firewood.  Practice Safety:  Familiarize yourself with the stove and its operation before heading out. Practice safe cooking habits and educate everyone in your camping party about stove safety.  Always have a fire extinguisher readily available.  Always prioritize safety when cooking on a tent wood stove. Following these considerations can help ensure a positive and safe cooking experience during your camping adventures.

HOW ARE TENT WOOD STOVES CLASSIFIED?

The three general tent stove categories are heavy tent wood stoves, lightweight tent stoves and portable tent stoves.  Heavy stoves are  normally used during stationary camping.  Lightweight and portable tent stoves are used when weight is a consideration. Stove menu bar list these 3 categories.

WHAT IS THE BEST LOCATION FOR A TENT STOVE JACK?

Based on personal experience the best location is in the roof.   Stove jack in roof allows the use of nesting pipe that can easily be stored inside the fire box. Additionally, no pipe elbows are required.

"In my 12 x 14 tent I have a stove jack in the roof, a sidewall and an end wall. I use the roof stove jack every time after experimenting  with the other stove jack locations." -Rich

A stove jack in any side wall requires 2 pipe elbows for changing from the horizontal to vertical pipe direction. Change to a vertical pipe going up is required to have the top of a stove pipe higher to prevent sparks from landing on a tent roof. When the stove jack in a side wall is used a metal support must be used to support the stove pipe.  If not, the stove pipe will become lose and fall apart.

WHAT IS A HOT TENT STOVE?

A hot tent stove is any tent stove that is compatible with use in a tent.  The size and weight requirements of all hot tent stoves is dependent on how the hot tent is being used. Stationary camping can have the heavier more durable stoves. Or use a lightweight or portable stove. 

Mobile hot tent campers normally use a lightweight stove. Hot tent stoves need to have a tent stove jack and located a safe distance from the wall.  Especially, if a hot tent stove is used in a synthetic tent. Synthetic tents billow in the wind and will melt if the synthetic side wall fabric touches a hot tent stove.

HOW DOES ELEVATION AFFECT CANVAS TENT STOVES?

Elevation directly affects how well your tent wood stove draws. It is best to have a stove jack in roof at elevations of 5000 feet and higher.  Stove jacks in side walls require 2 elbows at different locations that affect how quickly the hot air and smoke can exit the top of the stove pipe.  A stove that has stove jack in side walls will cause more smoke to enter your tent every time the stove door is opened because of the reduced draw caused by the elbows. Gradually the tent and persons camping or hunting will have a smoke smell.  If you are a hunter having the smell of smoke on clothes and equipment is not wanted or desirable.

The specific elevation at which a tent wood stove is affected can vary depending on factors such as design, combustion efficiency, and the stove's ability to adjust to changes in air pressure. However, in general, noticeable effects on wall tent stoves  in terms of combustion and efficiency can start to occur at elevations above 5,000 feet (1,500 meters) above sea level.  Here are some general considerations for different elevation ranges:  1.  Low Elevations (Sea Level to 5,000 Feet): Tent wood stoves typically operate efficiently at lower elevations where the atmospheric pressure and oxygen levels are higher.  Combustion and heating performance are usually within the stove's designed parameters, and users may not experience significant challenges. 2.  Moderate Elevations (5,000 to 8,000 feet): As you ascend to higher elevations, there might be a noticeable impact on combustion efficiency.  Adjustments to the stove's air intake and dampers may be needed to optimize combustion and maintain heat output. 3.  High Elevations (Above 8,000 feet): At elevations above 8,000 feet, the reduction in atmospheric pressure and oxygen levels becomes more pronounced.  Combustion efficiency may decrease, leading to incomplete burning of wood and potentially more smoke production.  4.  Very High Elevations (Above 12,000 feet): At extremely high elevations, combustion challenges become more significant, and standard wood stoves may struggle to operate efficiently.  Things to Consider When Operating a Wall Tent Wood Stove in Different Elevations: 1. Oxygen Levels:  As elevation increases, atmospheric pressure decreases, leading to lower oxygen levels. Combustion requires oxygen, and a lower oxygen concentration can result in incomplete burning of wood. This may lead to reduced heat output and increased production of smoke.  2.  Combustion Efficiency: Tent wood stoves are designed to operate within specific air-to-fuel ratios. Changes in atmospheric pressure at higher elevations can disrupt these ratios, affecting to combustion efficiency of the wood stove. Inefficient combustion may result in the creation of creosote and other byproducts that can accumulate in the stove and chimney.  3.  Boiling Point of Water: The boiling point of water decreases as elevation increases due to lower atmospheric pressure. This can impact the efficiency of a canvas tent stove used for boiling water. Cooking times may need to be adjusted, and it might take longer to bring water to a boil.  4.  Draft and Airflow:  Elevation changes can influence air density, affecting the draft and airflow within the stove and chimney. Proper drafting is crucial for efficient combustion. Adjustments to dampers and ventilation openings may be necessary to accommodate changes in air density at higher elevations.  5.  Fuel Combustion Rate:  The rate at which wood combusts can be influenced by elevation. At higher elevations, it may be necessary to carefully control the combustion process to maintain a consistent and efficient burn. Canvas tent stoves often have adjustable dampers or vents for controlling airflow and combustion rates.  6.  Efficiency of Heat Transfer:  At higher elevations, the efficiency of heat transfer can be impacted. Lower air density may affect how efficiently the stove transfers heat from the combustion chamber to the surroundings. This can influence the overall heating effectiveness of the wall tent wood stove.

WHAT HAPPENS IF I BURN MY TENT WOOD STOVE RED HOT?

Never allow your tent stove to burn red hot. Normally the stove starts becoming red hot at the bottom of the fire box. As soon as you notice any part of your stove burning red hot immediately shut off the air intake on the door.  Hopefully, the stove will return to normal color within 5 minutes. Sometimes theres is so much wood in the tent stove the entire stove will turn red hot.

During extreme heat the stove pipe also turns red. There is not much you can do at this time except have a fire extinguisher ready. You must always monitor and air intake to insure your stove never turns red hot. Normally, a stove only becomes red hot if you have a full stove of wood and the air take is too open. A tent stove will probably warp when it turns red hot. The wilderness and Yukon tent stoves have metal rods welded inside the stove to help prevent warming if you accidentally allow your stove to become red hot.

WHAT ARE MAINTENANCE REQUIREMENTS FOR TENT WOOD STOVES?

Cleaning: Regular cleaning is essential for maintaining the efficiency of a tent wood stove. Remove as and soot buildup from the firebox, stovepipe, and chimney. A clean wall tent stove operates more efficiently and reduces the risk of chimney fires. Chimney Inspection and Cleaning:  Check the stove pipe for any creosote buildup. Creosote is a byproduct of wood combustion and can lead to stove pipe fires if not cleaned regularly. Use a chimney brush to clean the chimney, especially before extended use.  A creosote fire looks like a flame thrower and will damage tent stove and tent. Gasket Inspection: Inspect the gaskets around the stove doors and joints. These gaskets create a seal that prevents air leaks, ensuring efficient combustion. Replace any damaged or worn gaskets to maintain a proper seal. Rust Prevention and Treatment:  Check the entire canvas tent stove for signs of rust. Remove rust using a wire brush or steel wool, and apply heat-resistant paint to prevent further corrosion. Pay attention to areas that may be more prone to rust, such as the legs and joints. Firebox and Stove Pipe: Inspect the firebox for any cracks or damage. Repair or replace any compromised parts. Ensure that the baffle and other components inside the firebox are in good condition. Dampers and Airflow: Learn how to use the dampers effectively. The primary air intake and the damper on the stovepipe control the airflow and combustion. Adjust them as needed to regulate the temperature inside of your wood stove for tent and improve efficiency. Never allow your stove to burn red hot as your stove will warp. Proper Fuel Selection:  Burn only dry and well seasoned wood in your tent stove. Wet or unseasoned wood can lead to incomplete combustion, increased creosote production and reduced stove efficiency. Store wood in a dry place to ensure its ready for use. Installation and Clearance: Maintain proper clearances from combustible materials, both for the tent wood stove inself and the stovepipe. Incorrect installation can pose safety risks and affect the stove's performance. Stovepipe Inspection:  Regularly inspect the stovepipe for any damage, leaks, or blockages. Ensure that the connections are secure. If you notice any issues, address them promptly to maintain proper ventilation. Monitor Damper Settings: Learn how to use the damper effectively. Adjust it as needed to control the airflow and temperature inside the tent wood burning stove. This helps in achieving efficient combustion and preventing over-firing. Transport and Storage: If you transport the tent stove frequently, secure all parts properly to prevent damage. When storing the stove, disassemble it if possible and store it in a dry place to prevent rust. Spare Parts and Tools:  Keep a set of spare parts and tools for basic repairs. This may include extra gaskets, bolts, and a multi-tool for on-the-go maintenance during camping trips. Temperature Monitoring: Maintain stove temperature to avoid over-firing and burning stove red hot. By incorporating these detailed maintenance practices into your routine, you can ensure the longevity, efficiency, and safety of your tent wood stove. Regular attention to these aspects will contribute to a reliable and enjoyable camping experience.

WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF RETURNING TO A TENT WOOD STOVE AT CAMP?

The feeling of returning from a hard day of hunting or exploring to a warm tent stove can be incredibly satisfying and comforting. After spending hours outdoors, perhaps facing challenging weather conditions and exerting physical effort, coming back to the warmth of a tent stove can provide a sense of refuge and relaxation. The chill in the air outside contrasts with the cozy heat emanating from the stove. The flickering flames cast a comforting glow, and the sound of crackling wood creates a soothing ambiance. The warmth not only eases any lingering cold from the hunt but also serves as a focal point for unwinding and sharing stories with fellow hunters. The tent stove becomes a central gathering point, a place to dry damp clothes, cook a hot meal, and bask in the camaraderie of the hunt or just exploring in the woods. There's a primal and elemental satisfaction in tending to the fire, adding fuel to the stove, and feeling the radiant heat envelope you. 4. In these moments, the tent stove becomes more than a source of warmth; it becomes a symbol of survival, comfort, and the shared experience.  It's a simple pleasure, yet one that resonates deeply with the primal instincts tied to our connection with nature and the outdoors. In these moments, the tent stove becomes more than a source of warmth; it becomes a symbol of survival, comfort, and the shared experience. It's a simple pleasure, yet one that resonates deeply with the primal instincts tied to our connection with nature and the outdoors.

RECENT TESTIMONIALS

"I bought a 16 x 20 canvas tent and wilderness 4 tent stove 12 years ago. Great wall tent. Many hunting trips and no problems. Had rough weather at times. Snow and rain and a lot of high winds. It seems that the November hunt is getting colder. Or, I am just getting older. I want to buy a wilderness 5 stove to insure I stay warm during the extreme weather. Thanks again for a great canvas tent and tent stove." -Cameron "I used my new tent and stove during Montana's general hunting season. Both the tent and stove were awesome. I was so impressed. Snowed and rained during most of the hunting trip. We stayed totally dry inside the tent. The fly really shed the water quickly and the snow slid off the fly with just just several pushes inside on the roof. My family and I are looking forward to many great years of hunting and camping with this tent. Thanks so much," -Ryan.

GENERAL INFO

If you contact us, recommended wood burning tent stove size for specific tent size is based on my 50+ years experience with stoves in tents.

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SMALL STOVE REVIEW: Navigator Stove Works – Sardine

Navigator Stove works has been building quality (made in the USA) tiny cast iron wood stoves since 1997. They are specifically made for boats but have been used for many other applications like RV’s, yurts and other small spaces. One thing I really like about these little stoves is they have a traditional look and feel with a small window on the front so you can enjoy the mesmerizing flames as you get warm. The window also helps you keep the fire maintained as you can quickly reference the state of the fire.

Here are the stove specifics:

Price: $1200 + $150 Glass Front Option

BTU: 7500 – 18000 BTU (How much do I need?)

Dimensions: 12” x 12” x 11”

Weight: 35lbs

Material: Cast Iron

Fuels: Wood or Hardwood Charcoal

Flue Pipe Diameter: 4”

Certified? Yes! (US EPA & State of Washington)

Notes: You can additionally get a custom porcelain color finish in: red, gray, black, green, blue & mint. These popular little stoves have a long back order status! There is between a 4-12 month waiting list depending on what you need. These little stove have been manufactured in the Seattle area for years and I have sometimes found used stoves on craigslist . If you decided on this route for your small space heating it’s better to order sooner than later! Order Here!

Other Navigator Stoves

Little Cod Halibut Herring Diesel Stove

Stove Accessories (Pipe & Fittings)

Drawings & Dimensions

Installation Instructions

Forum & Discussion about Navigators Stoves

If you have any experience with this stove please put your feedback below!

4 thoughts on “SMALL STOVE REVIEW: Navigator Stove Works – Sardine”

Too expensive when Cub mini’s are available at half the price… Really??

Thanks for the input! That’s a great point. Budget is a big factor when deciding which stove to use for your space, and the Cubic Mini Cub is certainly one of the cheaper options in this size.

Cubic Mini makes nice little stoves for their price point, and they’re a great fit for a lot of folks’ smaller projects. But there are a lot of other factors to consider like style, finish, materials of construction, air controls, flue size, available accessories, UL and EPA certification (Navigator makes some of the only UL/EPA stoves available in this size if that’s something that matters for your project), and supporting a small WA State business.

Also consider our own Dwarf 3kW Standard, which is between the Cubic Cub and the Navigator Sardine in price. It has top and rear exit options, a large fire viewing window, and tight air controls that make it easy to control the fire for long, slow burns. And we fully support everyone’s stoves in 3″, 4″, and 5″ flue sizes, so you can get the solid fuel rated stovepipe you need, regardless of where you bought your tiny stove.

Our view on this issue: buy once, cry once. Stoves are a long-term investment, so it’s best to figure out which one is the best for your space and your personal needs, and buy the right one the first time. You’re going to be living with your decision for a long time. There’s nothing more expensive than buying something just because it’s cheaper, and then having to replace it later because it doesn’t work for you.

Is there a direct air intake option for the sardine, little cod, or halibut? Or just the dwarf?

Tru- I do not believe Navigator makes direct air options for their stoves but I would contact them directly to confirm. The Dwarf Wood stove we make has a direct air option and many of the other small wood stoves out there also have this feature but I do not believe the Sardine, Cod, or Halibut does.

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