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The Care And Feeding Of Your Boat's Water SystemsAdvertisement Boating is all about water, inside and outside your boat. Let's take a close look at important maintenance tasks to stay on top of all your water systems.Illustration: Dick Everitt - Anchor/foredeck washdown with pressure pump and foot switch
- Galley sink. Filter for cleaner cold water. Sink drains above waterline at max heel. All thru-hulls must comply with ABYC standards
- Condensation drip tray drains overboard above waterline at max heel per ABYC standards
- Icemaker door open when not used
- Bilge pump drain well above water line on max heel. Smooth inner lining to hose. Vented loop may be needed if drain is near or below water line at max heel
- Head sink with filter on cold water and drain above waterline at max heel
- Shower sump pumped overboard to discharge above water line at max heel. Shower drain hose goes to shower evacuation pump. Head intake hose has a strainer and thru-hull
- All thru-hulls equipped with seacocks. Note double hose clamps
- Holding tank vented with minimum bends for better airflow
- Head discharges to MSD Type 1 with Y-valve
- Holding tank has pumpout hose and gravity discharge overboard after treatment where it's legal
- Water heater has anti-backflow valve to prevent expanding hot water from entering cold water system (This tank is shown lying on its side, an installation seen on some boats. Normally, hot-water tanks are upright.)
- Anti-siphon loops and valves where appropriate
- Potable water tank with fill and vent
- Potable water tank has sediment filter prior to pressure pump
- Accumulation tank diminishes pulsation
- Scuppers drain cockpit. Some boats need scuppers with hose to discharge
Seawater Washing (1) — Seawater systems such as anchor washdown and dishwashing with a seawater foot pump (if you're in clean water and rinse well with potable water) can conserve water. Frequently bathing in saltwater causes skin problems in many people; a freshwater rinse helps. Washdown water pump should be a short distance from the thru-hull but above the waterline. Drinking Water Purity (2, 6) — When in question, can be improved by adding a small amount of bleach. Some authorities recommend adding approximately 1 teaspoon of household bleach with no perfumes, dyes, or other additives per 10 gallons of water. If possible, agitate the water after adding bleach and then let it sit for an hour. Chlorine odor will dissipate after a day. Bleach may initially make the water to which it's added unclear because it's killed the “bugs.” The water clears as these settle to the bottom. Ultimately they should be flushed out. It's preferable and safer to add product manufactured for the purpose; camping stores are good sources. If you have questionable water purity and no way to remedy it, boil water before drinking. Drinking-water filters such as GE's FXUVC under-the-sink cartridge remove many impurities and greatly improve taste. A water system UV light, such as those used in some reverse-osmosis systems, can kill viruses. Air Conditioning & Refrigeration (3) — Condensation drain trays should occasionally be inspected to clear any blockage in drain hoses, which should preferably drain overboard rather than into the bilge. If trays don't drain fully, they'll develop a musty odor that will be circulated by the air handler. Icemakers (4) — Should be left open and off when not being used for a few days or longer to avoid odor and mold. Often the incoming water line is behind the unit in an area warmed by the unit. This facilitates stagnation and odor, particularly in the filter that may be in that area. When in use, the ice bin should be dumped at least every few days to keep water flowing. Good ventilation helps. Bilge Water (5) — Oil-absorbent pads in bilges under the engine and whenever there's oil-spill potential are critical. They must not interfere with the operation of a bilge-pump float switch. Always clean loose fuel and oils out of the bilge with an oil-absorbent pad, and discard appropriately. Proper bilge-pump installation is critical and will vary with different boats. The hose interior should be smooth, the water column in the hose should be no more than needed, and great care must be taken to avoid backflooding from the sea. Visual and audible alarms at the helm are crucial. Bilge pump hose should exit well above water line at maximum heel within the parameters of ABYC standards. Pumps should be in sections where water can pool more than minimally. A basic bilge pump schematic. Sumps (7) — Those used for showers should be cleaned and flushed through regularly, even if the shower isn't often used. Shower sumps should discharge well above the water line at maximum heel within the parameters of ABYC standards. Thru-Hulls (8) — Should be checked for obstruction every time you haul the boat and/or dive the bottom. Inspect them with a strong light, such as Streamlight's Stylus Pro 360 , while hauled. While in the water, you may need to carefully (to avoid damaging hose and valve) work an old table knife or similar tool around inside the hole to clear it of barnacles and other obstructions. A carrot peeler makes a good tool for small holes. If the hole is covered by an external filter, this should be removed, when hauled, for painting inside, inspection, and cleaning. Water Passages (8, 6) from thru-hull openings — Sinks, heads, engines, air conditioners, refrigeration, bilge pumps, and other components use thru-hull openings and hoses. Regularly inspect and operate all thru-hull valves . Some valves periodically require disassembly and lubrication or cleaning while the boat is hauled. You may need to close one quickly when a breach occurs in a water passage inside the boat. Regularly inspect all hoses and connections . Old or suspect hoses will deteriorate over time and should be replaced. Eventually, wire inserts will rust and harm inner and/or outer hose walls. Preferred hose clamps are AWAB brand or similar. Double the clamps (unless doing so would cut into the hose, in which event a longer hose barb is indicated) and regularly inspect. All components should be 316 grade stainless or better. Cheap hose clamps tend to rust and break. Use hose appropriate for the job, such as marine-sanitation hoses for heads. ABYC standards should be followed in these and all other aspects. Holding Tank (9, 10, 11) — Some chemicals added to holding tanks can harm the environment if spilled, either from the boat or from pumpout-disposal systems and system failures. Various companies market what they claim to be environmentally friendly holding-tank additives with varying degrees of effectiveness. Some boaters install a Raritan ElectroScan MSD plumbed to treat and discharge overboard where it's legal, and treat and discharge into the holding tank at other times. Head Water (10) — Regular addition of products such as Star brite Instant Fresh Toilet Treatment and Raritan CP help keep head water odorless and improve operation of the head . Petroleum-based products can harm valves, seals, and gaskets. Check manufacturer's recommendations. Regularly pouring white vinegar into the head and flushing will help diminish calcium buildup on inside walls of head plumbing. Raritan's CH is stated to be environmentally harmless and is specially formulated to remove heavy calcium buildup as well as prevent buildup if used regularly. Head discharge hoses should be specified for MSD use. Other types of hoses are usually more likely to develop calcium buildup, deposits, blockages, and odor permeation. Plumbing the head to flush with fresh water can reduce odor. The head intake hose is positioned as it is in the illustration for clarity, but should be far enough from the head discharge to avoid sucking up waste. Water Heater (12) — Should be standing upright with a backflow valve between the incoming cold water and the heater. Requires periodic flushing by squirting in clean dock water with a water hose under moderate pressure through a discharge port at top, squirting around inside as much as practical, and draining through open intake port at bottom. Some water heaters have an anode for cathodic protection that should be checked yearly. Anti-Siphon Loops and Valves (13) — Are needed in some hoses that exit underwater to prevent water from siphoning into the boat. Whether anti-siphon valves and loops are used depends in part on the location of relevant components in the boat and whether they're below the waterline or could end up below the waterline. These components may include heads, sinks, and engines and their raw-water intake and exhaust systems. As a precaution, when you're away from your boat, close the underwater seacocks. Potable Water Tank (14, 15, 16) — Should be treated periodically with a product such as Star brite AQUA Water Treatment & Freshener to remove odors, scale, and bad taste. Also, thoroughly flush tank with clean water and pressure nozzle. Drain from bottom if possible; if not, pump it out. Follow manufacturer directions when applying anything to drinking water. Follow instructions and warnings for cleaning additives, particularly with aluminum tanks. New tanks, especially fiberglass or plastic, may smell of the material of which they're made. Often, adding baking soda to the water will help, as well as with other odors later. The amount depends on the severity of the problem and volume of the tank. Clarity of water may vary with source, such as from wells, cisterns, public water works, and reverse osmosis. The latter source, if coupled with a UV light and maintained well, probably produces the best water. Drains and Scuppers (17) — Cockpits, side decks, and other areas of a boat normally have drains to rid the boat of rain and boarding seas. Test these regularly with a hose to be sure they're draining adequately. Leaves, plant material, dirt, and other debris can quickly obstruct them. Boats can sink if drains aren't kept clear. Clear them with a high-pressure hose nozzle or plunger. Related ArticlesThe truth about ceramic coatings for boats. Our editor investigates the marketing claims of consumer-grade ceramic coatings. Fine-Tune Your Side Scan FishfinderTake your side-scanning fishfinder off auto mode, and you’ll be spotting your prey from afar in no time DIY Boat Foam DeckingClosed-cell foam flooring helps make boating more comfortable. Here’s how to install it on your vessel Click to explore related articles Technical Editor, BoatUS Magazine One of the top technical experts in the marine industry, Tom Neale, BoatUS Magazine Technical Editor, has won nine first-place awards from Boating Writers International, and is author of the magazine’s popular "Ask The Experts" column. His depth of technical knowledge comes from living aboard various boats with his family for more than 30 years, cruising far and wide, and essentially learning how to install, fix, and rebuild every system onboard himself. A lawyer by training, for most of his career Tom has been an editor and columnist at national magazines such as Cruising World, PassageMaker, and Soundings. He wrote the acclaimed memoir All In The Same Boat (McGraw Hill), as well as Chesapeake Bay Cruising Guide, Vol. 1. These days, Tom and his wife Mel enjoy cruising their 2006 Camano 41 Chez Nous with their grandchildren. BoatUS Magazine Is A Benefit Of BoatUS MembershipMembership Benefits Include: Subscription to the print version of BoatUS Magazine 4% back on purchases from West Marine stores or online at WestMarine.com Discounts on fuel, transient slips, repairs and more at over 1,200 businesses Deals on cruises, charters, car rentals, hotel stays and more… All for only $25/year! We use cookies to enhance your visit to our website and to improve your experience. By continuing to use our website, you’re agreeing to our cookie policy. The charity making life better by water Making life better by water Keeping your water tank cleanIn this article on water tank hygiene from our Boaters Update, we continue our series on boat maintenance with help from the experts at River Canal Rescue. From the latest gadgets for boaters to the best maintenance tools for boats - it's all at Crick this year Leisure marine domestic water tanks are typically constructed of three types of material; plastic, stainless steel or mild steel, each with differing maintenance requirements and associated risks. Types of tankThe highest risk material is mild steel - it reacts with oxygen to produce rust which drastically depreciates the water quality and creates an environment for bacteria to develop. While the bacteria is not known to be dangerous, if a bacterial infection takes hold, it can give the water a foul smell and taste. When inspecting the tank, the bacterial infection will take the form of slime attached to the sides. Plastic tanks offer greater protection from bacterial infection however, dependent on material and age, they will start to release toxins into the water when they begin to break down so it's important to replace plastic tanks in accordance with their shelf life. They're also more likely to absorb or hold any chemicals added to purify the water. For example, the chemical in purifying tablets used to flush the system may remain in the water for a year or so and while these toxins are not dangerous, a chemical smell and taste will persist. The lowest risk material is stainless steel – this offers protection from rusting and bacterial infection and as it doesn't retain toxins, it avoids persistent foul smells and tastes. Match your maintenance to the type of tankStainless steel tanks require a purification cycle of at least once a year. To do this, add a purifying tablet to a full water tank and leave to activate for the advised time period. Once purification has occurred, turn all the taps on and drain the system as much as possible. This will ensure purification flows through the system. Next, refill and flush the tank twice more to evacuate any residual chemical within the system (with the taps on and a running hose pipe in the tank). Mild steel tanks require the same purification cycle as a stainless-steel tank but they also need deep cleaning every three to five years. This entails removing the inspection cover and power washing the inside. Do not sand down or rub the rust off - rust is not dangerous and the power washer will remove any loose rust and debris build up. Do not paint the inside of the tank (unless specialist paint is used) as this will leach toxins into the water. Plastic tanks also need a yearly purification cycle, but instead of using chemicals, they should be cleaned out manually using hot water. If the tank is inaccessible a hot water flush will suffice. If a chemical is the only method available, regularly flush the system with fresh water. Furthermore, do not allow water to stand in the tank for long periods of time as this will increase the build-up of toxins in the water. Finally, filtration is advisable for any domestic water tank. A filter will remove any debris or sediment, drastically improving the water quality and consistency, and there are also filters that can remove toxins. Filtration however, does not replace the need for tank maintenance and if this is neglected, water will be foul smelling/tasting water even if filters are installed. Thanks again to the experts at River Canal Rescue for sharing their knowledge. Boaters UpdateSign up for Boaters Update Keeping water out of your fuelFuel tank maintenance Boating servicesFind boating services near you Last Edited: 11 February 2019 Stay connectedSign up to our monthly newsletter and be the first to hear about campaigns, upcoming events and fundraising inspiration Looking for Hassle-free Home construction? Overhead Water Tanks: Design, Capacity, and Essential Cleaning ServicesIn residential, commercial and industrial buildings, overhead water tanks are one of the essential components and basic requirements. Overhead tanks are designed to store water at a height above the ground level and ensure a pressurised and steady water supply through gravity to various parts of the building. This article discusses the important aspects of overhead water tanks in detail, so keep reading to learn about these technical features. Brief on Overhead Water TanksOverhead water tanks are installed at elevated levels, mostly on rooftops or specially constructed towers, to use gravitational force to supply water. They are important water distribution systems in buildings, ensuring that water flows through pipes in taps and other outlets without the need for additional pumps. When the area is limited or there is undesirable water pressure, overhead water tanks are a vital part of the project. Overhead Tank DesignOverhead tank design involves several key considerations to ensure it functions safely and effectively. The main aspects are material selection, structural integrity, shape, size and foundation. Let’s discuss these in detail. 1. Material SelectionOverhead tanks are commonly made from materials like concrete, steel or plastic. There are advantages and drawbacks to each of these materials. - Concrete tanks: They are strong and durable and offer great resistance to weathering and leakage. However, they are heavy and need strong structural support and may be prone to cracking over time.
- Steel tanks: They are lightweight and easier to install compared to concrete tanks. They are resistant to cracking, but might need protective coatings to prevent corrosion, particularly in coastal or humid environments.
- Plastic tanks: Plastic tanks are the most lightweight, cost-effective and easy to install. They are resistant to corrosion and are available in various sizes and shapes. They may degrade over time due to exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light if not treated properly.
2. Structural IntegrityThe structural design of an overhead water tank must consider the load of the stored water, which can be huge. The tank must be designed such that it carries static loads and dynamic loads, like wind or seismic forces depending on the location. It also involves ensuring the tank foundation can bear the total load without excessive settlements, buckling or failure. 3. Shape and SizeThe shape of the tank is often rectangular, cylindrical or spherical. Each shape has its own structural advantages which are mentioned briefly below. - Rectangular tanks: Easier to construct with concrete, especially for large capacity overhead tanks, but requires careful attention to internal stresses and may be challenging to clean.
- Cylindrical tanks: They offer great structural stability and are used for both steel and plastic tanks.
- Spherical tanks: Although they are more difficult to design and build, they offer the best stress distribution.
The size of the tank is determined by the demand for water, which depends on the number of occupants in the building, the number of plumbing fixtures, and other specific water usage factors. Estimating the Capacity of Overhead Water TanksCalculating the overhead tank capacity is vital to ensure an adequate water supply. It is generally based on the factors mentioned below: 1) Water Demand EstimationThe water demand for a building depends on the type of occupancy, i.e. residential, commercial or industrial and the number of users. For example, in a residential building, the per capita water requirement might be calculated at 135 litres per person per day, as per standard guidelines. The total demand can be estimated by multiplying this by the number of occupants. 2) Peak Demand ConsiderationsOverhead tank design should be such that they can meet the peak demand scenarios, like the morning and evening times when the water usage is normally highest. The overhead tank capacity should be sufficient to handle these peak times without getting empty. 3) Settings for Fire FightingMajorly for commercial or industrial buildings, the capacity of the overhead water tank must also account for water required in case of a fire emergency. In residential buildings, there must also be sufficient water capacity for emergency situations. In these cases, the fire safety regulations may dictate a minimum volume of stored water dedicated to firefighting purposes. Cleaning Services and Maintenance Overhead water tank cleaning is important to ensure the water remains safe for consumption and the tank remains in good structural condition. Regular cleaning and inspection are vital components of this maintenance. Over time, overhead tanks can accumulate sediments, algae and other contaminants that may compromise water quality. Regular cleaning is necessary to remove these deposits and ensure that water remains potable. Cleaning Process of Overhead Water TanksThe following steps must be followed for the overhead water tank cleaning: - Draining the tank: The tank is emptied, either by using the water until it’s depleted or by manual/ pump draining.
- Scrubbing: The interior surfaces of the overhead tank are cleaned to remove any sediments or biological growths. Special brushes and non-toxic cleaning agents are used for this purpose.
- Disinfection: After scrubbing, the tank is disinfected using chlorine or other approved disinfectants, which kills any remaining microorganisms.
- Rinsing and Refilling: The tank is thoroughly rinsed to remove any cleaning agents or disinfectants and is then refilled with fresh water.
Frequency of CleaningThe frequency of the overhead water tank cleaning depends on the type of tank, the local environmental conditions, and the quality of the incoming water. It is generally recommended that overhead tanks be cleaned at least once every six months. In areas with poor water quality or high sediment content, more frequent cleaning may be necessary. Structural InspectionsJust like cleaning, regular structural inspections are essential. These inspections should check for signs of cracking, corrosion, and other structural damage that could compromise the integrity of the tank. Any issues found should be quickly repaired to avoid more serious problems. Overhead water tanks are an important part of the infrastructure in buildings, providing a reliable water supply through gravity-fed systems. The design and capacity of these tanks must be carefully planned to meet the needs of the building while assuring structural integrity. Regular maintenance, like cleaning and inspections, is important to keep the water safe and the tank in good working condition. By following best practices in design, capacity planning and maintenance, overhead water tanks can provide many years of reliable service. Consult our team of experts at Brick & Bolt, to know the technical aspects and use of overhead water tanks, whether it’s for residential, commercial or industrial buildings. Recent PostShuttering in construction: types, importance, and key factors for selection. Resilient Design: Principles, Architecture, and the Future of Sustainable BuildingExploring the Physical and Chemical Properties of CementStructural Steel: Properties, Composition,Types and Applications- New Sailboats
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We tasked our resident chemical engineer to help us tame the terrible in marine sanitation.In recent years, PS testers have investigated holding tank chemicals ( Fighting Odor with Chemical Additives ) in concert with ongoing investigations of sanitation hoses and holding-tank vent filters. We’ve investigated some old-school deodorizing products with disappointing results, but we also tested the latest generation of holding tank treatments that use enzymes, nutrients for bacteria, and live bacteria to kill odors by more natural—and often more effective—means. Our readers quickly responded, suggesting we look at some of their personal favorite products, so thats what this test is about. Talk about holding tank chemicals, and many sailors think of that familiar port-a-potty smell—disinfectants and surfactants mixed with deodorizers. And yes, these products are still being used in holding tanks, usually by those who don’t know any better. Some chemicals also claim to help liquefy the waste and prevent clogging. While larger boats can use vent filters ( PS , March 2012) and enhanced ventilation to reduce odors, the only practical option for the small-boat owner with a portable toilet is some sort of treatment in a can. The newer, enzyme-loaded products are known as bio-augmentation treatments, because they supplement the natural biological processes. Some work primarily by providing nitrate as both a nutrient and as an alternative oxygen source for bacteria. Bacteria convert nitrate to nitrite or nitrogen, liberating oxygen and encouraging aerobic decomposition. Several products claim to contain live bacteria to aid in digestion, but in our last test, we were unable to develop cultures. This time around, however, we did get a culture on some products, and one of these, Bactank T3 , turned out to be one of the most effective. In the end, the complex chemistry and shifting nature of holding tank conditions make it difficult to pinpoint all of the chemical processes at work. Given the variables that can impact this particular test, the best we could do is measure what we found and add a little growth-fostering air to the biologically active treatments. WHAT WE TESTEDOur previous test looked at many of the big players in the recreational vehicle market. This time, we included products from smaller companies, those recommended by our readers, and those developed for home septic systems. We only included one product from our previous test, Yara Chemicals Odorlos , which we used as a control. Two familiar manufacturers in this round are Raritan, the New Jersey-based maker known for its marine toilet systems, and the Southern California-based Forespar, a longtime player in the marine market. Other contenders included Happy Camper, which as the name implies, is geared toward the camping market; Rid-X, a familiar septic tank product; and Zoal No-Flex, a chemical powder recommended by a Practical Sailor reader. HOW WE TESTEDFor the test, we created a series of small holding tanks containing real sanitary waste. The sanitary waste was supplied by a 20-pound iguana named Ziggy. (Ziggy typically poops in a tray of water, and we knew the mixture to be plenty foul.) This was supplemented with additional sanitary waste during the start-up period each spring. Seawater flush was used, as the odor problems associated with seawater are known to be more severe (the result of bacteria-reducing sulfate into more odorous sulfide chemicals). Tank tests were supplemented with field testing aboard a boat on Chesapeake Bay. There is only one true measure of effectiveness: whether the vent stinks when the head is flushed. Since calibrating noses presents certain challenges, its nice to have an analytical number to compare as well. A hydrogen sulfide monitor (the type used to test sewer gas) was used to back-up our sniff testing. At regular intervals, testers gave each sample a sniff rating in addition to recording the hydrogen sulfide levels. OBSERVATIONSSome of the products worked faster than others, but don’t expect overnight results. All of the products seemed to perform much better in this round, whether environmental factors came into play, we’re not sure. We had no products registering the high hydrogen sulfide numbers that we saw in earlier reports. As for odor control, this group of products also seemed to go easier on the perfumes and dyes that bothered testers in the first round. Temperature makes a difference. This round of testing took place in the late spring, when temperatures had not yet reached the summer highs ripe for odors. Fall and winter sailors, and those in cold-water areas (Maine, Pacific Northwest), may find that chemicals that claim to use live bacteria will be less effective on their boats. Ventilation also seemed to be less effective during the cooler-season testing, but smell was less noticeable then, too. Generally, you’ll see less odor problems in true winter weather. Again, all of the products claiming to contain live bacterial cultures tested negative for bacteria. Control inoculations flourished, however, quickly producing both bacteria and fungus. But, we are not certain this is too important. What was clear from our previous test was that chemicals that add oxygen, along with better venting, can materially affect odor in less than 12 hours, far quicker than an aerobic culture could blossom. Finally, it is important to avoid adding toxic chemicals-formaldehyde and related compounds, and bleach being the most common holding-tank offenders. These destroy the biomass that promotes a healthy holding tank. Perhaps more than any other element in the sanitation system, the health of the holding tank can have a great effect on odors. In many cases, the source of the odor is not the waste, but the water. Like most ocean sailors, we used seawater flush for our testing. Seawater is known to contribute to odors. Many newer systems use freshwater, and very little of it. Others use several pints per flush. Temperatures vary, and ventilation varies. Individual tanks will be subject to a number of variables that our test tanks were not. To compensate for this, we tested all the chemicals more than once under different conditions. Those that showed the most merit in early testing underwent additional testing. All of the recommended products did well, and we encourage you to try each and see which one works best for your special circumstances. A bacterial spore powder packaged with a small scoop for metering out the dose. We got a positive culture and super odor control. It wasn’t the fastest— it took a week to get going— but it eliminated virtually all odor and kept it that way for over a month, until testing was discontinued on that tank. Bottom line: A rare convergence of price and performance, this was an inexpensive product that really worked. Forespar RefreshThe Forespar Refresh was the fastest-acting product tested, making a remarkable difference in two days. It also continued to work for three weeks, making it one of the longer-lasting formulas. The makers describe this as a biodegradable product that uses a special chemistry instead of enzymes. This is a new product and certainly one to watch. The product line includes other deodorizing products that we did not have a chance to investigate. Bottom line: If you’ve got guests coming for the weekend and need something that works quickly, we Recommend Refresh. We like the name of this product, and it did make us happy campers, with an important caveat. It is a bacterial spore powder with absolutely no masking odors, which was nice. It comes packaged in a variety of ways, including self-dissolving pouches. Slower to start than some, the Happy Camper did work, and it remained reasonably effective after two weeks. However, because it contains zinc, which is harmful to the environment and is a problem for wastewater treatment plants, we would not use it ourselves. Bottom line: PS Not recommended. We wouldn’t consider this a top-tier product in this test field, and the inclusion of zinc is unnecessary in our view. Odorlos did well in Round 1, so we kept it as a control for the second round to see how it compared with the other products. Containing only sodium nitrate as an active ingredient, this product is quite effective when holding tank ventilation is provided. We liked the absence of dye, mess, and perfumes. While not the most effective in our testing, Odorlos is a solid performer with a large following. We tested the 10-pack of powder packets, the most popular option with cruisers and the one that requires the least storage space; it is also available in liquid form. Bottom line: Odorlos is not the cheapest, nor the most effective, but it is consistent, a good bet for most odor problems that can be handled with a chemical treatment. PS Recommended. Raritan C.P. (Cleans Potties)This product from toilet-maker Raritan is a head-cleaning product. We did not test Raritan CP as a holding-tank treatment. Raritan makes KO for that application. Stated to be 100-percent bacterial, it was the top-performing head cleaner, eliminating odor and cleaning while you’re away. Testers were impressed. It also produced the most rapid cultures in dip-slide testing, the only clear correlation that we found. Bottom line: Recommended as a head cleaning product and Best Choice for toilet bowl maintenance. Raritan Kills OdorsRaritan KO (Kills Odors) is supposed to be similar to Raritan CP (Cleans Potties). It performed well, but it also was the most expensive product we tested (on an annual basis). It wasnt the fastest, nor the longest lasting, but it did reduce odors significantly. Given the results of the Raritan CP, we were surprised it didnt do better. Bottom line: A solid performer that knocks down odors. Recommended. This product is probably the best known hardware-store septic tank treatment. It is marketed for a different purpose, reducing solids in septic tanks. However, a few sailors have said that it works. Rid-X has this to say: RID-X has not been tested on recreational vehicles (RVs); therefore we cannot recommend using it in RVs. After reading that statement and witnessing its poor odor control, we suggest leaving this product for home use. Bottom line: This is a different animal designed for a different set of problems. Not recommended. Zoal No-FlexA white chemical powder containing an oxygen source, Zoal No-Flex behaves something like Odorlos and Camco TST Ultra Concentrate, products included in Round 1. It is reasonably effective, but not as good as the Camco TST, which is about half the price per year. Bottom line: This product worked well and was the second cheapest in this group. ConclusionsAs we found in the last test, chemical treatments that relied on disinfection, surfactants, and deodorants were better than nothing. However, most were messy, and all left a characteristic portable-toilet smell. You can’t mask head odor, or scour it away. We do not recommend this class of products. We like the enzyme and biological (bacterial) products best, but users should be aware that some of these products might not perform as well in cold weather. However, odors in cooler temperatures also tend to be less. Our experience in Round 2 highlighted the same challenges as Round 1. Few products seemed to work well on boats that sit unused for three weeks or longer, which can prevent the exchange of air. None were effective when the air exchange was overly restricted by a long vent line. The conventional wisdom that a vent line can be no longer than five feet, no smaller than -inch inside diameter, and have a rise no more than 18 inches, has proven sound. Good tank ventilation helps significantly. Larger vents will help reduce odors in boats that are left unattended for weeks at a time. In a larger tank or one where good ventilation is very difficult to achieve, active ventilation offers a viable and robust approach. We used a homemade bubbler system, similar to Grocos Sweet Tank System, and this offered some improvement over natural ventilation. Click the following links for the results from Round 1, reported in the February 2012 issue , and our March 2012 test of vent filters, with tips on ventilations. Of course, there is another, better, way to help agitate the holding tank and promote the natural processes that fight odors: Go sailing more often. This article was first published on November 19, 2012 and has been updated. RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHORGreat review! Do you have any comment about Walex Bio-Pak enzyme treatment? Can Noflex Digestor be used with enzyme or probiotic treatment? What do you suggest for re claim tanks? (carwash recycling water tanks). Stopping Holding-tank Odors: recommended product Bactank T3 is available where? links are dead and company seems to be gone. I can see old stock a few places. The corporate link is gone, the phone number is dead, and the Facebook page has contained nothing but political bile unrelated to Bactank since January 2017 (the site does not appear to have been maintained since then, when the last home page title photo was loaded). It seems the page just stayed up. Our guess is that the owner retired. She celebrated her 80th birthday in 2017. The PS article was written in 2011. I would also guess that old stock is way beyond it’s expiration date at this point and will not work as tested. LEAVE A REPLY Cancel replyLog in to leave a comment Latest VideosCabo Rico 34 Boat ReviewSuper Shallow Draft Sailboat: The Leeboard SharpieHans Christian 41T – Boat ReviewSeven dead after superyacht sinks off Sicily. Was the crew at...Latest sailboat review. - Privacy Policy
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To clean sailboat water tanks, the first step is to empty the tank and rinse it with fresh water. Next, mix a solution of 1 cup of bleach and 1 gallon of water and pour it into the tank. Allow the solution to sit in the tank for 1-2 hours and then rinse the tank thoroughly with fresh water. Finally, use a brush to scrub the inside of the tank ...
Drain the tank completely. Measure 1 teaspoon/gallon of household bleach (aluminum) or vinegar (plastic) into the tank and add fresh water until it's full. Let it sit for 24 hours to sterilize, then drain the water. Fill with fresh water and drain repeatedly until all the bleach/vinegar odor is gone.
For treating water that is clear and chlorinated at the tap, 1 teaspoon of bleach per 50 gallons will provide a 2 ppm booster, the very most that should be needed. Chlorine aftertaste is the most common onboard water-quality complaint; however, chlorine at the tank can be efficiently removed with carbon filtration.
Each spring we need to commission our fresh water holding tank to rinse out antifreeze from winterizing, clean out the water tank, add water purifier & clean...
In addition, try to drain your tank somewhere that won't negatively affect the environment. Then, you can remove the old water to prepare for cleaning. Turn on your water pump, open all of the taps, and let the water drain out. Clean Out the Tank. The key to cleaning a fresh water tank is to allow the new, clean water to do the work.
3. Scrub out the tank with a long-handled brush or power washer. Take a long-handled scrub brush and a little dishwasher detergent and scrub away any grime on the sides and bottom of the tank. Alternatively, you can hose it down with a power hose attached to a clean source of water.
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With tank empty, pour chlorine solution into tank. Use one gallon of solution for each 15 gallons of tank capacity. (2) Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Open each faucet and drain cock until all air has been released and entire system is bled. (3) Allow to stand for three hours.
Learn how to flush, sanitize and maintain your boat's water tanks and plumbing system with tips from an engineer and cruiser. Find out when and how to use antifreeze, bleach, water-purification tablets and watermakers.
Mix the proper amount of bleach within a 1-gallon container of water. This will provide better mixing and reduce spot corrosion of aluminum tanks. Pour the solution (water/bleach) into the tank and fill the tank with potable water. If possible, allow some solution to escape though the vent. (If the vent is exterior, prevent any spillage into ...
A discussion thread about using bleach to clean and disinfect water tanks on sailboats. Some participants share their practices, opinions and tips, while others ask questions and seek advice.
Learn how to clean your boat's water tank without removing it using hot water, cleaning solution, and bleach alternatives. Follow the step-by-step process and tips to prevent algae, bacteria, and contaminants in your water system.
Add bleach to the tanks, fill with water to the top (!), cap, and let sit a couple days. This kills every bit of mold in it. Drain. Use a garden hose and spray nozzle to wash the mold off the walls and baffles. Drain. Get as much of the particulates out as possible, flush thoroughly.
As a precaution, when you're away from your boat, close the underwater seacocks. Potable Water Tank (14, 15, 16) — Should be treated periodically with a product such as Star brite AQUA Water Treatment & Freshener to remove odors, scale, and bad taste. Also, thoroughly flush tank with clean water and pressure nozzle.
Holding tank maker Dometic/Sealand recommends that boat owners empty the tank, then fill it about halfway with fresh water, and add 8 ounces of a liquid, bleach-free, biodegradable laundry detergent to the water before getting underway, preferably for a few hours of sailing in choppy conditions. Sealand Communication Manager Patrick Snyder also ...
In this episode, we tear up the floorboards and tackle the cleaning of our fiberglass water tanks. Who knows how long it's been since they were last cleaned,...
Stainless steel tanks require a purification cycle of at least once a year. To do this, add a purifying tablet to a full water tank and leave to activate for the advised time period. Once purification has occurred, turn all the taps on and drain the system as much as possible. This will ensure purification flows through the system.
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The frequency of the overhead water tank cleaning depends on the type of tank, the local environmental conditions, and the quality of the incoming water. It is generally recommended that overhead tanks be cleaned at least once every six months. In areas with poor water quality or high sediment content, more frequent cleaning may be necessary.
All of our sailboat repair and maintenance blogs are now hosted on our dedicated maintenance channel, MOTHERSHIP MAINTENANCE Check it out here: https://www.y...
Some chemicals also claim to help liquefy the waste and prevent clogging. While larger boats can use vent filters (PS, March 2012) and enhanced ventilation to reduce odors, the only practical option for the small-boat owner with a portable toilet is some sort of treatment in a can. Holding tank treatments are fertile ground for innovation.
LAKE HARTWELL, S.C. (WSPA) - An Upstate nonprofit has a new tool to keep waterways clean for boaters and wildlife. Lake Hartwell Partners for Clean Water said litter costs the U.S. $11 billion a ...
This video is about How to clean a sailboat water tank for drinking water!