Review of Marieholm 26

Basic specs..

The hull is made of fibreglass. Generally, a hull made of fibreglass requires only a minimum of maintenance during the sailing season. And outside the sailing season, just bottom cleaning and perhaps anti-fouling painting once a year - a few hours of work, that's all.

The boat is equipped with 2 cabins, 4 berths, a galley, 100.0 liter fresh water capacity and toilet facility.

The boat equipped with a fractional rig. A fractional rig has smaller headsails which make tacking easier, which is an advantage for cruisers and racers, of course. The downside is that having the wind from behind often requires a genaker or a spinnaker for optimal speed.

The Marieholm 26 has been built with different keel alternatives.

One option is a long keel. A full keel provide a better directional stability than a similar boat with a fin keel; on the other hand, better directional stability means also that the boat is more difficult to handle in a harbour with less space.

The keel is made of iron. Many people prefer lead keel in favour of iron. The main argument is that lead is much heavier than iron and a lead keel can therefore be made smaller which again result in less wet surface, i.e. less drag. In fact iron is quite heavy, just 30% less heavy than lead, so the advantage of a lead keel is often overstated.

The boat can enter most marinas as the draft is just about 1.64 - 1.74 meter (5.38 - 5.68 ft) dependent on the load. See immersion rate below.

Another option is a long keel.

This keel is also made of iron.

Marieholm 26 can enter even shallow marinas as the draft is just about 1.24 - 1.34 meter (4.07 - 4.37 ft) dependent on the load. See immersion rate below.

The boat is typically equipped with an inboard Volvo Penta MD5 diesel engine at 7 hp (5 kW). Calculated max speed is about 3.8 knots

Sailing characteristics

This section covers widely used rules of thumb to describe the sailing characteristics. Please note that even though the calculations are correct, the interpretation of the results might not be valid for extreme boats.

What is Capsize Screening Formula (CSF)?

The capsize screening value for Marieholm 26 is 1.63, indicating that this boat could - if evaluated by this formula alone - be accepted to participate in ocean races.

What is Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed?

The theoretical maximal speed of a displacement boat of this length is 6.0 knots. The term "Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed" is widely used even though a boat can sail faster. The term shall be interpreted as above the theoretical speed a great additional power is necessary for a small gain in speed.

The immersion rate is defined as the weight required to sink the boat a certain level. The immersion rate for Marieholm 26 is about 90 kg/cm, alternatively 507 lbs/inch. Meaning: if you load 90 kg cargo on the boat then it will sink 1 cm. Alternatively, if you load 507 lbs cargo on the boat it will sink 1 inch.

Sailing statistics

This section is statistical comparison with similar boats of the same category. The basis of the following statistical computations is our unique database with more than 26,000 different boat types and 350,000 data points.

What is Motion Comfort Ratio (MCR)?

What is L/B (Length Beam Ratio)?

What is a Ballast Ratio?

What is Displacement Length Ratio?

What is SA/D (Sail Area Displacement ratio)?

What is Relative Speed Performance?

Maintenance

When buying anti-fouling bottom paint, it's nice to know how much to buy. The surface of the wet bottom is about 12m 2 (129 ft 2 ). Based on this, your favourite maritime shop can tell you the quantity you need.

Are your sails worn out? You might find your next sail here: Sails for Sale

If you need to renew parts of your running rig and is not quite sure of the dimensions, you may find the estimates computed below useful.

UsageLengthDiameter
Mainsail halyard 23.2 m(76.0 feet)8 mm(5/16 inch)
Jib/genoa halyard23.2 m(76.0 feet)8 mm(5/16 inch)
Spinnaker halyard23.2 m(76.0 feet)8 mm(5/16 inch)
Jib sheet 7.9 m(26.0 feet)10 mm(3/8 inch)
Genoa sheet7.9 m(26.0 feet)10 mm(3/8 inch)
Mainsheet 19.9 m(65.1 feet)10 mm(3/8 inch)
Spinnaker sheet17.5 m(57.3 feet)10 mm(3/8 inch)
Cunningham3.4 m(11.2 feet)8 mm(5/16 inch)
Kickingstrap6.8 m(22.3 feet)8 mm(5/16 inch)
Clew-outhaul6.8 m(22.3 feet)8 mm(5/16 inch)

This section is reserved boat owner's modifications, improvements, etc. Here you might find (or contribute with) inspiration for your boat.

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Marieholm 32, performance, accomodation.

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Marieholm International Folkboat 26

  • Thread starter TwoDaysOff
  • Start date Mar 4, 2012
  • Brand-Specific Forums
  • Other Sailboats

TwoDaysOff

I am the proud new owner of a 1976 26' Marieholm International Folkboat. She's a charity case to be sure. A full hull restoration will be necessary (interior and exterior). I have not seen any posts concerning this particular yacht and Marieholm is not listed in the brand specific forums. Anyone here own or ever owned one of these beauties? I am about to embark on a long wonderful journey with this boat and would love to have as much external input as is possible. I will have it hauled out this coming week to start the restoration which will begin with the bottom. Any advice concerning cleaning, stripping and re-painting? Any and all input will be appreciated.  

A few "before" photos...  

Attachments

image-2272773677.jpg

Congratulations. I'm going to assume you are going to strip the old bottom paint and apply multiple barrier coats before you apply a new bottom paint. Don't be in a hurry to complete the bottom. Strip the old paint and wait as long as you can before applying a barrier coat. By the looks of the project this may work in your favor. This will allow the hull to dry out as much as possible. For health reasons, don't spend too much time in the cabin. That stuff growing on the interior can kill you. Here is a link to some effective ways of killing mold. http://blackmold.awardspace.com/kill-remove-mold.html#bleach Good luck with the project and keep us posted. Photos are great.  

Merlin Clark

Merlin Clark

I'd clean her up, do the bottom, ditch all the soft goods (hold all the bad smells) or try to clean the cushion foam and covers for reuse, make sure she is sail-able and use her while you refurbish. Check the rig (including where the chainplates mount), thru hulls, keel bolts, hardware, running rigging and anything else that could cause calamity if it failed. Head Mistress Peggy Hall can tell you about an enzyme that will kill bad odors in soft goods. Covers can be dry cleaned if still worth it. Enamel paints work fine for interiors and exterior grade fir plywood is also good for interior work if you need to go that far. If the gelcoat isn't ruined, I'd bring it back rather than paint. I had to paint as mine was shot. I wouldn't bother with barrier coating unless there is evidence of osmosis. My boat is 45 years old this year and spent her life in the water with no blisters nor barrier coat. The blister phenomenon has to do with the quality of the labor and builders being tight fisted with resin during the wet out of the fiberglass when they lay up hulls. Good website: http://www.solopublications.com/sailmarieif.htm Cool boat!  

Thanks for the advice. The link on mold killing seems very helpful. I have the Marieholm IF page bookmarked. Thanks. I do have a question about removing mold from teak, which I would like to bring back to its natural beautiful. The info on the mold killing link did not mention specifically the best way to kill mold on wood which will be subsequently clear finished. Due to the expense of replacing my teak interior, I would prefer to remove it, refinish it, then re-install it after demolding and refinishing the interior of the hull. As usual, any advice will be much appreciated.  

Wood bleach (oxalic acid) might work. http://woodzone.com/Merchant2/articles/wood_bleach.htm Edit: If you're talking about the teak bulkheads, you could strip th veneer, soak down the plywood with bleach and re-veneer. Their are a number of companies that sell exotic wood veneer. I covered a couple of ugly bulkheads with Luan plywood (doorskin) (on my last boat) which is pretty this (3/16"?) and inexpensive. It doesn't match teak but offers enough contrast to look nice with teak trim. This is available at the box stores (home depot, etc) and pretty cheap.  

aft bulkhead GS41.jpg

The importer used to live in Oxford, MD. She has passed away but there was quite the fleet in the Chesapeake Bay. I have raced them a lot and that one has been in New Orleans since about 1980 or so. The owner is a member of the Southern Yacht Club. The name of the boat is Carpe Diem. He as kept the boat in excellent shape. We managed to win a few races there as well. However from the photos, I can see that what you need to do applies to anyboat. Check clickbert.com/IFBoat/. The sit is no longer maintained but it is very comprehensive including names of other owners and specifications, parts, etc. There is a large fleet in S.F. including the older wooden lapstrake ones. Also a very large fleet in Sweden.  

Cayennita said: The importer used to live in Oxford, MD. She has passed away but there was quite the fleet in the Chesapeake Bay. I have raced them a lot and that one has been in New Orleans since about 1980 or so. The owner is a member of the Southern Yacht Club. The name of the boat is Carpe Diem. He as kept the boat in excellent shape. We managed to win a few races there as well. However from the photos, I can see that what you need to do applies to anyboat. Check clickbert.com/IFBoat/. The sit is no longer maintained but it is very comprehensive including names of other owners and specifications, parts, etc. There is a large fleet in S.F. including the older wooden lapstrake ones. Also a very large fleet in Sweden. Click to expand

rhythmsurfer

rhythmsurfer

Could sanding not get rid of the mold?  

Mark for that woven glass with the mold growing in it. I am thinking there was carpet over it...Try Kiltz. It may add a little weight but may work. I am sure they have some "marine" version that is more expensive. Tony  

carib sailor

Congratulations I bought a 1979 Marie Holm IF last August 2011. I removed all the teak veneer interior and floor covering. Most of it cleaned up very well with teak cleaner and bleach, excluding the companion bulkhead. I was able to replace that with marine grade 1/2" African Sapelle. It matches the teak veneer in the rest of the boat very well. The floor covering came from Defender Industries. Both items improved the interior greatly. If your interested I'll send you some pictures. Mine has a Volvo inboard which required major work(head milled, new rings). That work is completed, the engine runs well and I nicknamed it African Queen(a one banger). You didn't mention if your boat is inboard or outboard. I'll be happy to share with you anything that could help you during your restoration. Good luck with your refurbishing.  

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International Folkboat Marieholm 26



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Marieholm 26 Added 15-Dec-2014




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  • Sailboat Guide

International Folkboat

International Folkboat is a 25 ′ 9 ″ / 7.9 m monohull sailboat designed by Tord Sundén and built by Marieholm Boats starting in 1967.

Drawing of International Folkboat

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

  • SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
  • D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

  • D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
  • LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

  • D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
  • LOA: Length overall in feet
  • Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

Although similar, the INTERNATIONAL FOLKBOAT is not part of the NORDIC FOLKBOAT class since it does not have the ‘clinker built’ hull and was designed for fiberglass construction. First constructed in 1967 by Tord Sundén, it was accepted as one design class by Svenska Seglarförbundet. Most INTERNATIONAL FOLKBOATS have been built by Marieholms Bruk in Småland (SWE). Boats have also been manufactured on licence, in Australia and the UK. More than 2220 have been built in Sweden alone. Basic dimensions taken from class rules.

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International Folkboat – a Classic Pocket-cruiser: Used Boat Review

The genetic offspring of the nordic folkboat, this fiberglass 26-footer has plenty of fans..

marieholm sailboat

As keepers of the narrative truths known to non-believers as mere “sea stories,” we sailors are drawn not only to the boats we desire but the stories behind them. Some might go so far as to suggest the story has as much value as the boat itself, and there certainly have been some pretty crummy boats that sold well because of the fiction their builders spun. How many times have you gone to look at a used boat and the owner has whispered seductively, “This boat has a great story behind it?”

Well, if you are drawn to stories (true stories, not marketing pap), like the idea of a tacit connection with blond-haired Scandinavians with names like Ingrid, Sven, and Tord, and can see yourself proudly tooling around in a 1968 Volkswagen Beetle, then the International Folkboat is definitely a boat worth looking into. True, there are many boats that might appeal to the profile described above (some Carl Alberg sloops come to mind), but few have a story that compares to that of the International Folkboat.

Design Details

The drama behind the International Folkboat began even before the boat existed. In 1939, as Hitler pushed the world into World War II, the neutral Swedes optimistically held a yacht design contest. The winning boat was to be put into production as a new popular class of keelboats. It is from that contest that the svelte little micro-cruiser that came to be known as the Nordic Folkboat emerged. Although we’ve not the space to cover some of the juicier details of the Nordic Folkboat’s design origins, even the thumbnail view is compelling. For those interested, Deiter Loibner provides a detailed account of the controversy surrounding the design in his excellent book “The Folkboat Story: From Cult to Classic.”

The designer of the IF Folkboat was Todd Sunden, who until he died in 1999 at the age of 90, was still fighting to establish his claim as the primary designer of the storied Nordic Folkboat, the International Folkboat’s genetic predecessor. No one questions that Sunden drew the lines of the Nordic Folkboat, but whether he deserved credit or payment for later royalties remains under dispute.

According to Loibner, this much is known: In 1941, a committee of judges formed by the Royal Swedish Sailing Association chose the best designs of its international contest for a new keelboat design. Trouble was that the judges couldn’t settle on one design. Instead, the favorite drawings were handed over to Sunden, who was tapped to come up with a new design that incorporated the “best of the best” from the contest.

The result was the Nordic Folkboat, a clinker-built sloop with a reverse transom, a spoon bow, and a low cabin that gave it simple but pretty lines. Its long keel, slack bilges, barn-door rudder, and hefty ballast ratio (just over 50 percent) equipped it for North Sea adventures. The cockpit however—because it was not self-bailing—raised the risk quotient for any offshore ambitions. The 7/8-fractional rig gave it a conservative sail-area displacement ratio of 16.28. The length-to-beam ratio was just under 3.5. The four-foot draft appealed to the shoalwater challenged. Headroom was ideal for those wonderful creatures of Scandinavian folklore: elves.

Simple, relatively inexpensive to build, and reassuring in heavy weather, the boat was a hit in Scandinavia, even among the non-elves. In the post-war era, carried by the same back-to-basics current that swept the Volkswagen Beetle into the 1960s mainstream, the Folkboat dream gradually spread throughout Europe and beyond. In the U.S., a Danish Folkboat-disciple by the name of Sven Svendsen brought the gospel to the U.S. West Coast, more precisely to the San Francisco Bay area. In a rare moment of maritime synchronicity, a boat, a place, and a collective spirit converged just as the 1970s set in.

Out of these contentious beginnings and in the midst of these “interesting times,” the International Folkboat emerged in 1967. Conscious of the folkboat’s growing appeal, Swedish builder Marieholms Bruk contracted Sunden to draw a fiberglass version, and, the boat eventually eclipsed its original in popularity, with 3,400 hulls built when production ended in 1984. From a design perspective, the International Folkboat shares many of the same features as the Nordic Folkboat (see table page 13).

Gone is the clinker hull—a feature that persisted in even the fiberglass Nordic Folkboat that Svendsen pioneered. The reverse transom has been cut short, and a shallow self-draining cockpit replaces the Nordic Folkboat’s deep well. Marieholms also made room for an inboard or an outboard in a well. However, since the well was designed to fit the small British Seagull outboard, it isn’t much help with today’s four-strokes. Most owners close the hole permanently with fiberglass and put an outboard bracket on the stern, but an electric Torqueedo (see page 13) will fit just fine.

Overall, the International Folkboat is a good-looking, wholesome, stiff design that is at its best when the wind kicks up. It is no wonder the Bay Area sailors have

International Folkboat – a Classic Pocket-cruiser: Used Boat Review

acquired a taste for them.

The International Folkboat is well set for single-handed sailing. Although the original boat had mast-mounted halyards, nearly all the boats today have the halyards routed back to winches near the companionway. The mainsheet halyard runs on an aluminum track traversing the back of the cockpit, and the jib sheets lead through a rail-mounted genoa track to winches on the coaming. Early models came with bottom-grinding primary winches, but many are equipped with Lewmar single-speed winches. The mainsheet traveller is a notorious shin-whacker, but it makes for easy sail-handling from the helm.

The cockpit seats are 14.5 inches wide and 65 inches long, too short and narrow for non-elves to nap. Seat backs are 11 inches, too low to offer much back support, but about what you can expect from a boat of this size. Two 16-inch-by-19-inch cockpit lockers aft are not self-draining, so if you want to follow in the footsteps of some Folkboat adventurers, dogging these down will spare you a tedious bailing routine. Four 1.5-inch cockpit drains (exceptional for a boat this size) and a 12-inch bridgedeck reduces the risk of cockpit flooding.

The cockpit is tight for more than three adults, particularly if the wind is up. However, with one other person on board, it is a nice feeling to be wedged back behind the traveler. The cockpit is narrow enough that you can tuck behind the traveller and brace your feet on the leeward coaming or cockpit seat. With the mainsheet close at your side, you can confidently press to windward when others are still at the dock waiting for the whitecaps to ease. Some spray will cross the bow, but most International Folkboats come equipped with a cockpit dodger, a worthwhile investment.

Going forward, the sidedecks are wide, and the foredeck offers plenty of working space. Two aluminum handrails are on either side of the cabin-top. The standard boat did not come with a hawse pipe or bow anchor roller, but many owners have added these features. Although the area at the base of the mast has some nonskid patches, the rest of the cabintop is dangerously smooth. Since the boat’s thin gelcoat wears through with age, many older boats have painted decks, and these boats usually have improved nonskid on the deck and cabintop. The nonskid pattern on the sidedeck and foredeck is adequate, although it is probably worn to the point of being useless on some older boats.

The hardware is well-fastened with through-bolts and backing plates. This was the first 26-footer we’ve seen in a while with 10-inch cleats. Some of the hardware is marinium, an alloy common in the 1970s that is a poor substitute for silicone bronze, but these components are beefy and seem to be holding up on older boats. The deck-stepped, anodized aluminum Proctor masts with swept-back spreaders (7.5 degrees) are holding up as well as can be expected. The mast has sheaves at the base that allow the internal halyards to be routed to the cockpit. Owners or prospective buyers should check spreader tips for corrosion and remove any tape that does nothing but invite further corrosion.

Featuring just 55 inches of headroom, the interior of the International Folkboat is hardly palatial, but it can serve quite well as a weekender, if properly equipped. The range of amenities can vary greatly, and many of the options described here are likely to be absent on a boat that has been stripped down for racing. For sleeping, you have the choice of two long settees that stretch aft from the main cabin and tuck under the cockpit (with 35 inches of clearance), and a 72-inch-long V-berth forward with an 18-inch-by-24-inch hatch overhead. You could bridge the settees to make a double-berth athwartship, as some owners have.

For cooking, some IFs have a convertible galley comprising an alcohol two-burner Origo stove that folds down from a locker over the port settee near the companionway. A filler board “counter” drops in between the stove and the small sink near the mast, effectively forming a fore-and-aft galley. Just forward of the sink is a small hanging locker. Across from the locker is a ridiculously cramped head that is too narrow to be of much use. Many boats have turned this token nod to civility into another locker and put a port-a-potty under the V-berth. Above the settees on either side stretch a row of lockers, fine for storing small lightweight items. For mealtime, a removable table fits into a socket in the main cabin. The table also fits into a similar socket in the cockpit.

A 25-gallon water tank was optional, and some early models had the spigot in the cockpit, which according to an early review in Boating magazine was put there so that the cockpit scuppers could be used as sink drains. Many boats have creative tents fashioned over the cockpit area, which greatly expands the amount of “living space,” such as it is.

Many owners use their boats for weekend or long-solo voyages. Adam Correa sailed his International Folkboat in last year’s Single-handed Transpac Race, and Blondie Hasler’s famous Jester (a modified Nordic Folkboat) crisscrossed the Atlantic many times. Given the limitations of the boat’s smallish interior, those attracted to the Folkboat concept but in need of a little more “cruisability” might want to look into the Contessa 26 or the Cheoy Lee Frisco Flyer—both derivatives of the Nordic Folkboat. The Contessa has made many notable offshore voyages, including circumnavigations by Tania Aebi and Brian Caldwell, both of whom circled the globe while still in their teens.

Performance

One of the most highly praised virtues of the International Folkboat—as well as all its various relatives—is its performance under sail when the wind pipes up. While waves will come aboard offshore, in a stiff bay chop, the high surrounding bulwarks do a good job of keeping the cockpit surprisingly dry. There is no shortage of photos of International Folkboats (and Nordic Folkboats) shrugging off San Francisco’s famous winds with a single-reefed main. In such conditions, the jibsheet is often cross-sheeted and the two-man crew stays fairly high and dry on the windward rail.

The boat we sailed, Grateful Folk , is owned by Stephen McCormack, who uses it mostly for family daysails and local racing. McCormack, with a generous PHRF rating of 316, sailed the boat to first in the pocket-cruising division of the local racing fleet in 2009. Although the interior was a work in progress, the boat, overall, was in good shape given its age. The decks had been painted, the deck hardware was still in good condition, and apart from some minor pitting on the boom, the rig showed nothing worthy of serious concern. The loose-footed, partially battened mainsail and 120-percent genoa were basic cruising sails, typical of a family daysailer. Winds during our test sail on Sarasota Bay in Sarasota, Fla., were about 8-10 knots.

Grateful Folk was due for a bottom job, so we didn’t expect much from it in such light winds, but were pleasantly surprised. The boat did not, of course, accelerate in puffs like a modern fin-keeler, but it reacted positively to prolonged gusts. We were able to hold a steady 4.8 knots to windward, 5.5 knots reaching, and 5.2 knots deep-reaching off the wind. Unlike the Nordic Folkboat, the International Folkboat Class does allow for a spinnaker, although our boat was not equipped with one. In around-the-buoy races, McCormack is content to pole out the jib on downwind legs.

Tacking angles were precisely 45 degrees, although we would surely be able to aim higher in more wind. Three features struck us about the boat under sail. First was the ease with which the boat could be tacked and jibed singlehanded. Frank Costella, whose former boat, Espresso , is featured in John Vigor’s book “Twenty Small Sailboats to Take You Anywhere,” has many fond memories of sailing the boat by himself in a heavy breeze.

“I’d tuck right back there behind the traveller, with the jib cross-sheeted and watch the spray fly,” he said. “We put the windows under only a couple of times, but the cockpit rarely got very wet.”

Selling for about $10,000 on the used-boat market (if you can find them), the International Folkboat has four essential attributes that make for a good value. First, it has a long, mostly glowing history that ensures a loyal, almost cult-like following. Second, there are enough iterations of the class, particularly on the West Coast, that you can race and rally with a community of like-minded owners. Third, it is a very well-built boat for its size, with many features—like a quick-draining cockpit and monocoque hull—that inspire confidence off soundings. Finally, the boat is no longer being produced, so should you decide to resell your boat, you won’t be competing with a new boat market.

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International Folkboat – a Classic Pocket-cruiser: Used Boat Review

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  2. MARIEHOLM 26

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  3. Marieholm Boats (SWE)

    Marieholm Boats (SWE) Mariehom Bruk (Mill), was originally a manufacturer of agricultural machinery. After a change of ownership in the late 1940's, it became a builder of small fiberglass power boats. The first sailboat was the INTERNATIONAL FOLKBOAT in 1967. As a business, it ceased operations in 1986.

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    MARIEHOLM 32. About Characteristics. The Marieholm 32 is a popular sailing boat that was designed by the Swedish naval architect Tord Sunden in the 1970s. It is a classic, well-built, and seaworthy boat that has gained a reputation for its excellent sailing performance and comfortable cruising capabilities. The Marieholm 32 has a length overall ...

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    IF-boats racing at Lemkenhafen 2015. Following the success of the Nordic Folkboat, in the 1960s the original designer Tord Sundén approached Swedish yachtmaker Marieholm bruk with the idea of redesigning the boat for production in fibreglass. In his design Sunden maintained the lines of the original boat, but used the modern production technique to increase cabin size and sail area. [1]

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    The boat is in very good shape, including engine and sails, and is in the water ready to go. Asking $15,000. Yanmar 2GM20, custom hard dodger, chart plotter, Max-Prop, Doyle Stackpack, radios, jib, genoa, spinnaker, head, galley with standing headroom, new bottom prop paint 2018, USCG documented. Asking Price: 15,000 Boat Location: Annapolis ...

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    4.07'. California. $8,000. Description: Belinda is a 26 ft International Folkboat She has been sailing the San Francisco Bay for well over 40 years. We have owned her for more than 16 years. She has arelatively tall mast, which enables her to sail effectively, she has the ability to sail close windedness, and can be sailied in conditions where ...

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  20. a Classic Pocket-cruiser: Used Boat Review

    The boat we sailed, Grateful Folk, is owned by Stephen McCormack, who uses it mostly for family daysails and local racing. McCormack, with a generous PHRF rating of 316, sailed the boat to first in the pocket-cruising division of the local racing fleet in 2009. Although the interior was a work in progress, the boat, overall, was in good shape ...

  21. INTERNATIONAL FOLKBOAT

    Marieholm Boats (SWE) Associations: Folkboat (International) Related Sailboats: ... 1997), states that a boat with a BN of less than 1.3 will be slow in light winds. A boat with a BN of 1.6 or greater is a boat that will be reefed often in offshore cruising. Derek Harvey, "Multihulls for Cruising and Racing", International Marine, Camden ...