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Yachting Monthly

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25 of the best small sailing boat designs

• Nic Compton
• August 10, 2022

Nic Compton looks at the 25 yachts under 40ft which have had the biggest impact on UK sailing

There’s nothing like a list of best small sailing boat designs to get the blood pumping.

Everyone has their favourites, and everyone has their pet hates.

This is my list of the 25 best small sailing boat designs, honed down from the list of 55 yachts I started with.

I’ve tried to be objective and have included several boats I don’t particularly like but which have undeniably had an impact on sailing in the UK – and yes, it would be quite a different list if I was writing about another country.

If your favourite isn’t on the best small sailing boat designs list, then send an email to [email protected] to argue the case for your best-loved boat.

Ready? Take a deep breath…

Credit: Bob Aylott

Laurent Giles is best known for designing wholesome wooden cruising boats such as the Vertue and Wanderer III , yet his most successful design was the 26ft Centaur he designed for Westerly, of which a remarkable 2,444 were built between 1969 and 1980.

It might not be the prettiest boat on the water, but it sure packs a lot of accommodation.

The Westerly Centaur was one of the first production boats to be tank tested, so it sails surprisingly well too. Jack L Giles knew what he was doing.

Colin Archer

Credit: Nic Compton

Only 32 Colin Archer lifeboats were built during their designer’s lifetime, starting with Colin Archer in 1893 and finishing with Johan Bruusgaard in 1924.

Yet their reputation for safety spawned hundreds of copycat designs, the most famous of which was Sir Robin Knox-Johnston ’s Suhaili , which he sailed around the world singlehanded in 1968-9.

The term Colin Archer has become so generic it is often used to describe any double-ender – so beware!

Contessa 32

Assent ‘s performance in the 1979 Fastnet Race makes the Contessa 32 a worth entry in the 25 best small sailing boat designs list. Credit: Nic Compton

Designed by David Sadler as a bigger alternative to the popular Contessa 26, the Contessa 32 was built by Jeremy Rogers in Lymington from 1970.

The yacht’s credentials were established when Assent , the Contessa 32 owned by Willy Kerr and skippered by his son Alan, became the only yacht in her class to complete the deadly 1979 Fastnet Race .

When UK production ceased in 1983, more than 700 had been built, and another 20 have been built since 1996.

Cornish Crabber 24

It seemed a daft idea to build a gaff-rigged boat in 1974, just when everyone else had embraced the ‘modern’ Bermudan rig.

Yet the first Cornish Crabber 24, designed by Roger Dongray, tapped into a feeling that would grow and grow and eventually become a movement.

The 24 was followed in 1979 by the even more successful Shrimper 19 – now ubiquitous in almost every harbour in England – and the rest is history.

Drascombe Lugger

Credit: David Harding

There are faster, lighter and more comfortable boats than a Drascombe Lugger.

And yet, 57 years after John Watkinson designed the first ‘lugger’ (soon changed to gunter rig), more than 2,000 have been built and the design is still going strong.

More than any other boat, the Drascombe Lugger opened up dinghy cruising, exemplified by Ken Duxbury’s Greek voyages in the 1970s and Webb Chiles’s near-circumnavigation on Chidiock Tichbourne I and II .

The 26ft Eventide. Credit: David Harding

It’s been described as the Morris Minor of the boating world – except that the majority of the 1,000 Eventides built were lovingly assembled by their owners, not on a production line.

After you’d tested your skills building the Mirror dinghy, you could progress to building a yacht.

And at 24ft long, the Eventide packed a surprising amount of living space.

It was Maurice Griffiths’ most successful design and helped bring yachting to a wider audience.

You either love ’em or you hate ’em – motorsailers, that is.

The Fisher 30 was brought into production in 1971 and was one of the first out-and-out motorsailers.

With its long keel , heavy displacement and high bulwarks, it was intended to evoke the spirit of North Sea fishing boats.

It might not sail brilliantly but it provided an exceptional level of comfort for its size and it would look after you when things turned nasty.

Significantly, it was also fitted with a large engine.

Credit: Rupert Holmes

It should have been a disaster.

In 1941, when the Scandinavian Sailing Federation couldn’t choose a winner for their competition to design an affordable sailing boat, they gave six designs to naval architect Tord Sundén and asked him to combine the best features from each.

The result was a sweet-lined 25ft sloop which was very seaworthy and fast.

The design has been built in GRP since the 1970s and now numbers more than 4,000, with fleets all over the world.

Credit: Kevin Barber

There’s something disconcerting about a boat with two unstayed masts and no foresails, and certainly the Freedom range has its detractors.

Yet as Garry Hoyt proved, first with the Freedom 40, designed in collaboration with Halsey Herreshoff, and then the Freedom 33 , designed with Jay Paris, the boats are simple to sail (none of those clattering jib sheets every time you tack) and surprisingly fast – at least off the wind .

Other ‘cat ketch’ designs followed but the Freedoms developed their own cult following.

Hillyard 12-tonner

The old joke about Hillyards is that you won’t drown on one but you might starve to death getting there.

And yet this religious boatbuilder from Littlehampton built up to 800 yachts which travelled around the world – you can find them cruising far-flung destinations.

Sizes ranged from 2.5 to 20 tons, though the 9- and 12-ton are best for long cruises.

The innovations on Jester means she is one of the best small sailing boat designs in the last 100 years. Credit: Ewen Southby-Tailyour

Blondie Hasler was one of the great sailing innovators and Jester was his testing ground.

She was enclosed, carvel planked and had an unstayed junk rig.

Steering was via a windvane system Hasler created.

Hasler came second in the first OSTAR , proving small boats can achieve great things.

Moody kicked off the era of comfort-oriented boats with its very first design.

The Moody 33, designed by Angus Primrose, had a wide beam and high topside to produce a voluminous hull .

The centre cockpit allowed for an aft cabin, resulting in a 33-footer with two sleeping cabins – an almost unheard of concept in 1973 –full-beam heads and spacious galley.

What’s more, her performance under sail was more than adequate for cruising.

Finally, here was a yacht that all the family could enjoy.

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Nicholson 32

Credit: Genevieve Leaper

Charles Nicholson was a giant of the wooden boat era but one of his last designs – created with his son Peter – was a pioneering fibreglass boat that would become an enduring classic.

With its long keel and heavy displacement, the Nicholson 32 is in many ways a wooden boat built in fibreglass – and indeed the design was based on Nicholson’s South Coast One Design.

From 1966 to 1977, the ‘Nic 32’ went through 11 variations.

Credit: Hallberg-Rassy

In the beginning there was… the Rasmus 35. This was the first yacht built by the company that would become Hallberg-Rassy and which would eventually build more than 9,000 boats.

The Rasmus 35, designed by Olle Enderlein, was a conservative design, featuring a centre cockpit, long keel and well-appointed accommodation.

Some 760 boats were built between 1967 and 1978.

Credit: Larry & Lin Pardey

Lyle Hess was ahead of his time when he designed Renegade in 1949.

Despite winning the Newport to Ensenada race, the 25ft wooden cutter went largely unnoticed.

Hess had to build bridges for 15 years before Larry Pardey asked him to design the 24ft Seraffyn , closely based on Renegade ’s lines but with a Bermudan rig.

Pardey’s subsequent voyages around the world cemented Hess’s reputation and success of the Renegade design.

Would the Rustler 36 make it on your best small sailing boat list? Credit: Rustler Yachts

Six out of 18 entries for the 2018 Golden Globe Race (GGR) were Rustler 36s, with the top three places all going to Rustler 36 skippers.

It was a fantastic endorsement for a long-keel yacht designed by Holman & Pye 40 years before.

Expect to see more Rustler 36s in the 2022 edition of the GGR!

It was Ted Heath who first brought the S&S 34 to prominence with his boat Morning Cloud .

In 1969 the yacht won the Sydney to Hobart Race, despite being one of the smallest boats in the race.

Other epic S&S 34 voyages include the first ever single-handed double circumnavigation by Jon Sanders in 1981

Credit: Colin Work

The Contessa 32 might seem an impossible boat to improve upon, but that’s what her designer David Sadler attempted to do in 1979 with the launch of the Sadler 32 .

That was followed two years later by the Sadler 29 , a tidy little boat that managed to pack in six berths in a comfortable open-plan interior.

The boat was billed as ‘unsinkable’, with a double-skinned hull separated by closed cell foam buoyancy.

What’s more, it was fast, notching up to 12 knots.

Credit: Dick Durham/Yachting Monthly

Another modern take on the Contessa theme was the Sigma 33, designed by David Thomas in 1979.

A modern underwater body combined with greater beam and higher freeboard produced a faster boat with greater accommodation.

And, like the Contessa, the Sigma 33 earned its stripes at the 1979 Fastnet, when two of the boats survived to tell the tale.

A lively one-design fleet soon developed on the Solent which is still active to this day.

A replica of Joshua Slocum’s Spray . Credit: Alamy Stock Photo

The boat Joshua Slocum used for his first singlehanded circumnavigation of the world wasn’t intended to sail much further than the Chesapeake Bay.

The 37ft Spray was a rotten old oyster sloop which a friend gave him and which he had to spend 13 months fixing up.

Yet this boxy little tub, with its over-optimistic clipper bow, not only took Slocum safely around the world but has spawned dozens of modern copies that have undertaken long ocean passages.

Credit: James Wharram Designs

What are boats for if not for dreaming? And James Wharram had big dreams.

First he sailed across the Atlantic on the 23ft 6in catamaran Tangaroa .

He then built the 40ft Rongo on the beach in Trinidad (with a little help from French legend Bernard Moitessier) and sailed back to the UK.

Then he drew the 34ft Tangaroa (based on Rongo ) for others to follow in his wake and sold 500 plans in 10 years.

Credit: Graham Snook/Yachting Monthly

The Twister was designed in a hurry.

Kim Holman wanted a boat at short notice for the 1963 season and, having had some success with his Stella design (based on the Folkboat), he rushed out a ‘knockabout cruising boat for the summer with some racing for fun’.

The result was a Bermudan sloop that proved nigh on unbeatable on the East Anglian circuit.

It proved to be Holman’s most popular design with more than 200 built.

Credit: Alamy Stock Photo

Laurent Giles’s design No15 was drawn in 1935 for a Guernsey solicitor who wanted ‘a boat that would spin on a sixpence and I could sail single-handed ’.

What the young Jack Giles gave him was a pretty transom-sterned cutter, with a nicely raked stem.

Despite being moderate in every way, the boat proved extremely able and was soon racking up long distances, including Humphrey Barton’s famous transatlantic crossing on Vertue XXXV in 1950.

Wanderer II and III

Credit: Thies Matzen

Eric and Susan Hiscock couldn’t afford a Vertue, so Laurent Giles designed a smaller, 21ft version for them which they named Wanderer II .

They were back a few years later, this time wanting a bigger version: the 30ft Wanderer III .

It was this boat they sailed around the world between 1952-55, writing articles and sailing books along the way.

In doing so, they introduced a whole generation of amateur sailors to the possibilities of long-distance cruising.

Westerly 22

The origins of Westerly Marine were incredibly modest.

Commander Denys Rayner started building plywood dinghies in the 1950s which morphed into a 22ft pocket cruiser called the Westcoaster.

Realising the potential of fibreglass, in 1963 he adapted the design to create the Westerly 22, an affordable cruising boat with bilge keels and a reverse sheer coachroof.

Some 332 boats were built to the design before it was relaunched as the Nomad (267 built).

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A Practical Look at Sailboat Cockpit Design

Ps outlines what to look for when searching for a comfortable, functional cockpit..

Cockpit ergonomics involve more than a concern about coaming angles and comfortable seating. These are just two items on a long list of attributes that define the space where sailors spend most of their waking time.

At boat shows, the crowd can be divided into those that poke around on deck and those who head directly below. Brokers know the difference between racing sailors and cruisers and which end of the companionway ladder will seal the deal. Racers want performance and scrutinize the on-deck design features that make it all happen, while cruisers look below for the amenities of a house afloat. This stereotype may be too rigid, but from what we’ve seen at recent boat shows, cruisers need to take a closer look at the cockpit and get a feel for how a sailboat will handle underway, as well as serve as a home away from home.

There’s much more at stake than comfort for the crew. Cockpit design and layout drives many boat-handling tasks, ranging from steering and sail trimming to what goes on when its time to reef. Angles of view can even affect watchkeeping.

For example, a high center cockpit and a large overlapping genoa create a 90-degree-plus no see zone, and thats a big deal when it comes to collision avoidance. A large catamaran with a tall bridge-deck cabin can add an even larger no see zone, especially when running on autopilot with no one perched on the elevated helm seat.

In short, many cockpits are optimized for at-anchor enjoyment instead of underway usability. So part of the boat-shopping process should include careful scrutiny of how essential sailing and boat-handling tasks will be accomplished. For starters, note how much contortion it takes to really crank each winch, determine whether or not the line leads favor easy reefing, and check to see how well the cockpit shape contributes to keeping the crew from being washed overboard. These are essential attributes, and for some, they are more vital than galley counter material and the fabric that covers the cushions below.

Grand Prix racers have long favored wide open, low sided, no-transom cockpits that are more of an open deck than a protective trench. In heavy weather, these nothing-to-cling-to cockpits can become perilous. In 1997, during the Hong Kong to Osaka, Japan Race, Americas Cup trials veteran Makoto Namba was at the helm of Escape One when a 20-foot breaking sea washed him out the open transom of the 45-foot racer. In 2006, Dutch Volvo Ocean racer Hans Horrevoets was swept from the deck of ABN AMRO TWO and lost at sea. Closer to home, pro sailor Dan Cianci was tossed over the lifelines of the 50-foot ocean racer Snow Lion. The accident occurred at night, in heavy weather just off the Delaware River mouth. In each case, the cockpit design favored sail trim and line handling over heavy-weather safety considerations. Many ocean racers mitigate such design tradeoffs with careful use of harnesses, tethers, jack lines, and hard points for tether attachment.

Just the opposite design trend can be found in the deep cockpit and conventional closed transom of sailboats such as Ted Hoods 25-year-old design, American Promise. Dodge Morgan sailed the heavy-displacement 60-footer solo around the world. The big, double-head rigged sloop provided a great deal of crew protection and seakeeping ability during Morgans voyage. And for years after he donated the boat to the U.S. Naval Academy, midshipmen also learned to appreciate the cockpit layout-particularly during bad weather offshore.

PS Technical Editor Ralph Naranjo sailed that boat in a gale-strewn trans-Atlantic with an able crew and encountered a nasty 979-millibar low at about 45 degrees North latitude. According to the log, AP was reaching eastward at 9 knots under storm trysail and storm jib with green water routinely sweeping the deck. Seas had silenced the mini-M satphone by regularly immersing the dome shaped antenna in wave faces, eventually flooding the internal circuitry.

It was a rough passage, and little things taken for granted in smoother seas showed their true value. Features like the deep cockpit well, the heavy-duty, water-tight companionway doors, and the massive cockpit drains all proved their worth.

The flip side of the coin is that really bad weather encounters are a rare occurrence for most sailors. More often, 0- to 20-knot sailing conditions prevail. And our coastline is dotted with safe havens in which to hide from the elements. So one of the big challenges facing every designer and naval architect drawing lines for their next new boat is the question of exposure. Will owners use the boat as a dockside second home and be underway only in fair weather, or will they take the cruiser label to heart and leave land well astern? A close look at cockpit layouts will give you some indication of the boats intended use.

We prefer to evaluate cockpit ergonomics from both static and dynamic points of view. On some boats, these underway and at anchor evaluations lead to disparate conclusions. A cockpit that works well underway may be confining in port, or another vessel with a patio-size stern may be altogether dysfunctional at sea. It’s all an issue of trying to do two different jobs with one fixed set of dimensions and appendages. Buyers need to know what attributes they will make best use of.

For monohulls, coping with heel is the first big challenge, and wide-open space, whether its in the cockpit or main saloon, can be a tough challenge. The universal solution to carrying wide beam aft on cruising boats seems to be the ubiquitous cockpit table. It can be a handy centerline support, but it’s a tough addition to a seafaring cockpit in the minds of many traditional sailors. That said, production boatbuilders have gotten much better at making these centerline, folding-leaf tables sturdy enough for sea duty and effective as a handhold.

Industry Trends

Over the last 50 years, mainstream production sailboat design has moved noticeably away from the racer/cruiser defined by Pearson, Tartan, C&C, Cal, Columbia, Ranger, Islander, Ericson, and others. The new boats are roomier with less emphasis on performance under sail. Racers now have their own genre of sailboat, and they are faster, better handling, and more capable than their predecessors. But whats most surprising is that many mainstream cruisers are anything but optimized for long-distance passages and long-term living aboard.

These boats feature convenience, style, and comfort, and the actual design objective in many cases is more focused on weekend cruising and an annual two-week summer harbor-hopping cruise. Easy sail-setting and large boat interiors in shorter waterline lengths prevail, and such trends influence the shape and layout of the cockpit. When it comes to ergonomics, the split between cruisers and racers is more apparent than ever, but theres also some real differentiation within the ranks of cruisers themselves.

In Practical Sailors recent scrutiny of cockpit designs at local boat shows, weve noted four emerging sailboat stereotypes. These include daysailers that feature few, if any, accommodations; racing boats brimming with performance-enhancing hardware; and ocean-going cruisers capable of extended passagemaking. The fourth grouping-larger than all the other three combined-are also labeled cruisers, but with less draft, less stability, and less versatile sail plans, they are more like an SUV designed more for the highway than off-roading in the backcountry.

Sizing Up a Cockpit

The takeaway lesson for us was the importance of making sure that the cockpit of the boat you are about to buy is in keeping with the mission of the rest of the boat. If you are a serious club racer, the centerline table wont be a crew favorite. Those making a double-handed passage on a 40-footer will see a tight, narrow cockpit differently than when eight sail the same boat. So with complete belief in the old adage, different strokes for different folks, heres what we looked for when evaluating cockpit design. It can be used as a helpful buyers guide when you’re surveying your next boat.

Working the winches: All too often, winch location is an afterthought, and fine hardware is stuck on side coamings shaped more as a roof for the aft cabin than as a key component of sail trim. We always like to check sheet leads angles that lead lines to a particular winch and then mimic what cranking with a two-handed winch handle would be like. Look for 360-degree clearance with no knuckle-busting stanchions in the way. Be sure that the winch grinding works on either tack. Genoa sheeting may always put you on the leeward side of the cockpit, but runners and spinnaker guys will usually be worked on a windward winch.

Sheets and halyards: One of testers major complaints was builders habit of running seldom-used halyard lines attached to roller-furling headsails and in-mast furling mainsails all the way aft to the cockpit. Doing so left lengthy line tails cluttering up the area under the dodger where reefing lines, the boom vang, and in some cases, the main sheet all arrived like too many trains in a station.

Theres no perfect mainsheet arrangement, but some are better than others, and the one you choose has a lot to do with how much attention you pay to the nuance of sail trim. The current vogue among serious racers involves 2-to-1 end-boom sheeting: an in-boom lead of the double-ended sheet returns aft via turning blocks near the mast and runs to winches on both sides of the boat (often referred to as Admirals Cup, or German mainsheet). Fast, no-load hand trimming is the upside, but in any breeze, theres good reason to quickly get the sheet on a winch drum. The sheet tail is shorter because of the low ratio (2-to-1) lead. One nuisance is that the sheet can end up bunched up on one side or the other.

Many cruisers prefer higher ratio, multi-part tackles for mainsheeting and may lead each end to a Harken-type adjustment system rather than using a winch. When fast tacking action is not in the cards, this is a user-friendly system.

Some cruisers incorporate mid-boom sheeting because it moves the tackle out of the cockpit than rather then because of how effectively it allows the mainsail to be trimmed. The shortened lever arm means the sheet needs a winch sooner than later. There is also more of a leech-flattening, vang-like effect to this type of sheeting, not the best feature for light-air efficiency.

The trend toward travelers roosting on over-cockpit arches, a longtime standard in Hunter Yachts and a recent adoption in some Beneteau lines, helps protect the crew from accidental jibe injuries and allows dodgers and biminis to flourish, but windows in these covers are essential, if a crew is to see whats happening whey they are pulling the strings.

Anticipate the angles: Look at how things will change as heel increases and note where vulnerability lies. We recently ran into a crew who had lost an engine due to the shape of the cockpit. During the design phase, the location for an engine instrument recess was placed within easy reach of the person at the helm. In an upright trim-and even at 30 degrees of heel-all was well, but in a knock down when the cockpit began to flood, the engine instruments ended up in a low spot, and despite their sealed all-weather design, submerging them in saltwater had not been part of the engine manufacturers gameplan. The ensuing corrosion took out the panel and the alarm system, and a novice crew failed to notice the changes in sound and smell as a raw-water blockage in the cooling system went critical.

Those headed offshore need to pay special heed to the companionway and have a feel for what angle of heel sends water down an open hatch. Whats a surprise to many is that the first part of the hatch to reach the water may be the top rather than the lower portion of the companionway. Sticking in a washboard or two will help keep a breaking wave from sloshing below, but it may be of little use in a deep knockdown.

Getting in and out: One of the most important safety features of a good boat is the transitional path that leads a crew from the cockpit to the deck. Good engineering focuses on step heights, deck camber, handholds, and the quality of the nonskid surface. This transition in and out of the cockpit is one of the most repeated movements on the vessel. If a dodger, bimini, or Florida room compromises access, they become a hazard. Small, molded steps are of little help in a seaway.

There is no ideal cockpit that meets everyones preferences, and plenty of bad ideas still persist. No matter what your aims are as a sailor, some things deserve to take precedence. Ample space for entertaining friends for sundowners dockside is nice, but comfort underway, including ergonomic seats for sitting or napping, and secure places to steer and stand watch when the boat is heeled should be a higher priority.

Likewise, sight lines and sensible sheet arrangements should come before drink-holders. Next time you prowl the boat show, spend some time exploring the cockpit and comparing features. It is the hub of the boat.

Rating cockpit attributes is a worthwhile endeavor for a serious boat shopper. Start by rating component parts. It will allow you to more effectively compare and contrast one boat with another, according to your specific sailing plans and needs.

For example: Above, we have focused on seven key cockpit attributes and rated five new boats accordingly. Below is a brief explanation of each of the criteria selected. The result of the data table is not a winner-take-all report card. It’s a means of determining what has been emphasized in a specific cockpit design on a wide variety of very different vessels.

Rating for this attribute reflects both the location of a winch and the way in which crew members must bend, lean, or contort themselves while sheeting. We considered how efficiently a manual winch could be cranked and whether or not an electric winch could be safely operated while retaining a clear view of the sail being sheeted or hoisted.

This was not a look at the vessel’s steering hardware, rudder design, or feel of the tiller. It was more focused on helm location and how the person steering the boat could carry on the process comfortably for lengthy periods of time.

We consider the ability to quickly and efficiently reduce and add sail area to be a primary aspect of seamanship. Cockpit layouts teamed up with efficient well-chosen hardware can make or break this facet of cockpit ergonomics. Awkward winch placement, too many lines clustered together around a big bank of rope clutches, and attempting to place sheets, halyards, and reefing lines all in the helmsman’s lap with only one or two undersized winches usually lead to lower ratings.

Collision avoidance requires seeing what’s about to cause trouble well ahead of time, and anything shy of a 360-degree angle of view detracts from the process. We were concerned about view angles and obstructions ranging from dodgers, to deck-sweeping headsails, cabinhouse bulkheads, and other design features that limit the helmsperson’s field of vision. Aboard many multihulls, there’s a growing trend toward providing one perch that offers an all-around view. But when the vessel is operating on autopilot and no one is in the elevated helm seat, watchkeeping efforts are hampered.

When floating on an even keel, it’s easy to get in and out of most cockpits. However, a modest heel of 15 degrees can turn wide-open cockpits with awkward coamings and narrow sidedecks into a hazard. Getting around on a vessel in a seaway requires good nonskid, an abundance of ready handholds, and an unobstructed pathway in and out of the cockpit. Seats need to be usable underway, and the dodger, companionway, and bimini must work in concert.

Short Handing

Because most cruisers sail short-handed, we are always on the look out for features that make watchkeeping more user friendly. These include line leads and winch layouts that allow headsail trimming from the helm and may even offer the chance to tuck or shake a reef from the confine of the cockpit. Crew alone on deck also benefit from deeper-welled open space. Giving the short-handed crew protection from seeping seas and offering well-placed hardware goes a long way to ensure safe, efficient passagemaking.

Entertaining

At anchor and in port, the cockpit changes from an operations center to a backyard patio. Gone is the need for seakeeping attributes, and what counts is how well the area at the aft or center portion of the boat stacks up as a place for stationary fun. Tables that can serve dinner for six or drinks for 10 get high marks. Transoms that fold down, offering access to the sea, are also a current rage. It’s no surprise however, that many of the attributes that drive high scores for entertaining earn a lower grade at sea—the reason many designers and builders have spent time developing fold-up swim platforms and wellreinforced drop-leaf tables ready for sea duty.

VALUE GUIDE: Comparing Cockpit Design

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The Ultimate Guide to Sail Boat Designs: Exploring Sail Shape, Masts and Keel Types in 2023

• June 4, 2023

When it comes to sail boat designs, there is a wide array of options available, each with its own unique characteristics and advantages. From the shape of the sails to the number of masts and the type of keel, every aspect plays a crucial role in determining a sailboat’s performance, stability, and manoeuvrability. In this comprehensive guide, we will delve into the fascinating world of sail boat designs, exploring the various elements and their significance.

Table of Contents

The sail shape is a fundamental aspect of sail boat design, directly impacting its speed, windward performance, and maneuverability. There are several types of sail shapes, including:

1. Bermuda Rig:

The Bermuda rig is a widely used sail shape known for its versatility and performance. It features a triangular mainsail and a jib, offering excellent maneuverability and the ability to sail close to the wind. The Bermuda rig’s design allows for efficient use of wind energy, enabling sailboats to achieve higher speeds. The tall, triangular mainsail provides a larger surface area for capturing the wind, while the jib helps to balance the sail plan and optimize performance. This rig is commonly found in modern recreational sailboats and racing yachts. Its sleek and streamlined appearance adds to its aesthetic appeal, making it a popular choice among sailors of all levels of experience.

2. Gaff Rig:

The Gaff rig is a classic sail shape that exudes elegance and nostalgia. It features a four-sided mainsail with a gaff and a topsail, distinguishing it from other sail designs. The gaff, a horizontal spar, extends diagonally from the mast, providing additional area for the mainsail. This configuration allows for a taller and more powerful sail, making the Gaff rig particularly suited for downwind sailing. The Gaff rig offers a traditional aesthetic and is often found in vintage and classic sailboats, evoking a sense of nostalgia for a bygone era of maritime exploration. The distinctive shape of the Gaff rig, with its graceful curves and intricate rigging, adds a touch of timeless charm to any sailboat that dons this rig.

3. Lateen Rig:

The Lateen rig is a unique and versatile sail design that has been used for centuries in various parts of the world. It features a triangular sail that is rigged on a long yard, extending diagonally from the mast. This configuration allows for easy adjustment of the sail’s angle to catch the wind efficiently, making the Lateen rig suitable for a wide range of wind conditions. The Lateen rig is known for its ability to provide both power and maneuverability, making it ideal for small to medium-sized sailboats and traditional vessels like dhow boats. Its versatility allows sailors to navigate narrow waterways and make tight turns with ease. The distinctive silhouette of a sailboat with a Lateen rig, with its sleek triangular sail and graceful curves, evokes a sense of adventure and a connection to seafaring traditions from around the world.

Number of Masts

The number of masts in a sail boat design affects its stability, sail area, and overall performance. Let’s explore a few common configurations:

1. Sloop Rig:

The sloop rig is one of the most popular and versatile sail boat designs, favoured by sailors around the world. It consists of a single mast and two sails—a mainsail and a jib. The sloop rig offers simplicity, ease of handling, and excellent performance across various wind conditions. The mainsail, situated behind the mast, provides the primary driving force, while the jib helps to balance the sail plan and improve manoeuvrability. This configuration allows for efficient upwind sailing, as the sails can be trimmed independently to optimize performance. The sloop rig is commonly found in modern recreational sailboats due to its versatility, enabling sailors to enjoy cruising, racing, or day sailing with ease. Its streamlined design and sleek appearance on the water make it both aesthetically pleasing and efficient, capturing the essence of the sailing experience.

2. Cutter Rig:

The cutter rig is a versatile and robust sail boat design that offers excellent performance, especially in challenging weather conditions. It features a single mast and multiple headsails, typically including a larger headsail forward of the mast, known as the cutter rig’s distinguishing feature. This configuration provides a wide range of sail combinations, enabling sailors to adjust the sail plan to suit varying wind strengths and directions. The larger headsail enhances the boat’s downwind performance, while the smaller headsails offer increased flexibility and improved balance. The cutter rig excels in heavy weather, as it allows for easy reefing and depowering by simply reducing or eliminating the headsails. This design is commonly found in offshore cruising sailboats and has a strong reputation for its reliability and seaworthiness. The cutter rig combines versatility, stability, and the ability to handle adverse conditions, making it a preferred choice for sailors seeking both performance and safety on their voyages.

3. Ketch Rig:

The Ketch rig is a sail boat design characterized by the presence of two masts, with the main mast being taller than the mizzen mast. This configuration offers a divided sail plan, providing sailors with increased flexibility, balance, and versatility. The main advantage of the Ketch rig is the ability to distribute the sail area across multiple sails, allowing for easier handling and reduced stress on each individual sail. The mizzen mast, positioned aft of the main mast, helps to improve the sailboat’s balance, especially in strong winds or when sailing downwind. The Ketch rig is often favoured by cruisers and long-distance sailors as it provides a range of sail combinations suitable for various wind conditions. With its distinctive double-mast appearance, the Ketch rig exudes a classic charm and is well-regarded for its stability, comfort, and suitability for extended journeys on the open seas.

The keel is the part of the sail boat that provides stability and prevents drifting sideways due to the force of the wind. Here are some common keel types:

1. Fin Keel:

The fin keel is a popular keel type in sail boat design known for its excellent upwind performance and stability. It is a long, narrow keel that extends vertically from the sailboat’s hull, providing a substantial amount of ballast to counterbalance the force of the wind. The fin keel’s streamlined shape minimizes drag and enables the sailboat to cut through the water with efficiency. This design enhances the sailboat’s ability to sail close to the wind, making it ideal for racing and performance-oriented sailboats. The fin keel also reduces leeway, which refers to the sideways movement of the boat caused by the wind. This improves the sailboat’s ability to maintain a straight course and enhances overall manoeuvrability. Sailboats with fin keels are commonly found in coastal and offshore racing as well as cruising vessels, where stability and responsiveness are valued. The fin keel’s combination of performance, stability, and reduced leeway makes it a preferred choice for sailors seeking speed and agility on the water.

2. Full Keel:

The full keel is a design known for its exceptional stability and seaworthiness. It extends along the entire length of the sailboat, providing a continuous surface that adds substantial weight and ballast. This configuration offers significant advantages in terms of tracking and resistance to drifting sideways. The full keel’s deep draft helps to prevent leeway and allows the sailboat to maintain a steady course even in adverse conditions. Its robust construction enhances the sailboat’s ability to handle heavy seas and provides a comfortable ride for sailors on extended journeys. While full keel sailboats may sacrifice some manoeuvrability, their stability and predictable handling make them a popular choice for offshore cruising and long-distance voyages. The full keel design has stood the test of time and is often associated with classic and traditional sailboat aesthetics, appealing to sailors seeking reliability, comfort, and the ability to tackle challenging ocean passages with confidence.

3. Wing Keel:

The wing keel is a unique keel design that offers a combination of reduced draft and improved stability. It features a bulbous extension or wings on the bottom of the keel, which effectively increases the keel’s surface area. This design allows sailboats to navigate in shallower waters without sacrificing stability and performance. The wings create additional lift and prevent excessive leeway, enhancing the sailboat’s upwind capabilities. The reduced draft of the wing keel enables sailors to explore coastal areas and anchor in shallower anchorages that would be inaccessible to sailboats with deeper keels. The wing keel is particularly well-suited for sailboats in areas with variable water depths or tidal ranges. This keel design offers the advantages of increased manoeuvrability and improved performance while maintaining stability, making it a popular choice for sailors seeking versatility in a range of sailing environments.

In the vast world of sail boat designs, sail shape, number of masts, and keel types play pivotal roles in determining a boat’s performance and handling characteristics. Whether you’re a recreational sailor, a racer, or a cruiser, understanding these design elements can help you make informed choices when selecting a sailboat.

Remember to consider your specific needs, preferences, and intended use of the boat when choosing a sail boat design. Each design has its strengths and weaknesses, and finding the perfect combination will greatly enhance your sailing experience.

By gaining a deeper understanding of sail boat designs, you can embark on your next sailing adventure with confidence and make the most of the wind’s power.

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Lloyd’s Register certified hull and deck moulding

675 hulls and deck mouldings meet EU RCDII standards, with strength, integrity and build quality also certified by Lloyd’s Register.

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Oceanis 30.1

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The Oceanis cruising yacht will tempt you to surf the seas, driven by the wind and your wanderlust, with the promise of simple comfortable sailing at all times. These stylish cruisers have clean lines and a flared hull, and they have become the gold standard of cruising. They are balanced and spacious , and they have been designed so that each passenger enjoys their time aboard and to make trips to sea about sharing fun in good company.

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A dream that the Oceanis cruiser makes possible for any sailor thanks to easy handling and a standard designed for easy sailing. With just two winches and a self-tacking jib at the bow, tacking is like child's play. Fitted with two rudders, the Oceanis cruising yachts are extremely safe giving you confidence and allowing you to enjoy the pleasure of sailing.

Remarkably Comfortable

The Oceanis cruisers range from 30 to 51 feet long, and they all focus on comfort – sailing comfort, comfort at harbour or at anchor, comfort for the whole crew. With their impressive cockpit and generous spaces inside, they have been designed to accommodate family and friends in the best possible conditions. On deck, the relaxation areas are simply ideal for making the most of the sun and the sea air, while the crew can move around the boat unhindered.  The hull and overall design of the Oceanis is extremely well balanced and all the boats in the line have great seakeeping, which contributes to the overall feeling of comfort aboard. 

Numerous Configurations

The Oceanis comes in many different layouts , so that everyone can enjoy sailing the way they want to.  Layout plans tailored to each model provide the ideal configuration to enjoy the sea with family and friends . Versatility is also the name of the game on deck, with varying equipment and sail plans, including Performance versions offering greater actions – chosen in keeping with your sailing programme.  

The flared hull increases the space inside the boat, with no performance drawbacks under sail. These three features of balance, performance, and space make the Oceanis the ideal cruising yacht.

The Oceanis cruisers are a great source of inspiration for your navigation programme.

The epitome of cruising, the Oceanis sailing yacht is the perfect place to be for anyone who loves happy times at sea with family or friends.  Since the Oceanis is easy to handle and well-balanced to helm, you can explore the coast or enjoy cruising the ocean to far-off destinations. The structure and layout of the whole line is inherently comfortable, so you can breezily and effortlessly clock up the miles at sea. And at anchor, the large aft platform makes going for a swim effortless.

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9.53 m / 31’3’’

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2.99 m / 9’10’’

10.77 m / 35’4’’

3.57 m / 11’9’’

11.93 m / 39’2’’

3.92 m / 12’10’’

12.87 m / 42’3’’

4.18 m / 13’9’’

14.6 m / 47’11’’

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15.94 m / 52’4’’

4.8 m / 15’9’’

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"The basis for reflection on a Cruiser would be the Idylle [...].  François Chalain would choose Philippe Briand 3 and, in a few months, they would create the Oceanis 350 and then the 430. The wager paid off, and success was instant. The production lines would fill up again."

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INTRODUCTION TO SAILBOAT DESIGN: A TECHNICAL EXPLORATION

Sailboat design is a complex and fascinating field that blends engineering, hydrodynamics, and aesthetics to create vessels that harness the power of the wind for propulsion. In this highly technical article, we will delve into the key aspects of sailboat design, from methodology to evaluation.

1)     Design Methodology

Designing a sailboat is a meticulous process that begins with defining the vessel’s purpose and performance goals. It involves understanding the intended use, whether it’s racing, cruising, or a combination of both. Sailboat designers must also consider regulatory requirements and safety standards.

Once the design objectives are established, naval architects employ various computational tools and simulations to create a preliminary design. These tools help in predicting the boat’s performance characteristics and optimizing its geometry.

Design methodology also encompasses market research to understand current trends and customer preferences. This information is critical for creating a sailboat that appeals to potential buyers.

2)     Hull Design

The hull is the heart of any sailboat. Its shape determines how the boat interacts with the water. Hull design encompasses the choice of hull form, its dimensions, and the material used. The hull’s shape affects its hydrodynamic performance, stability, and overall handling.

For example, a narrow hull design with a deep V-shape is ideal for speed, while a wider, flatter hull provides stability for cruising. The choice of materials, such as fiberglass or aluminum, impacts the boat’s weight and durability.

The hull design is a balance between achieving efficient hydrodynamics and providing interior space for accommodations. As a designer, finding this equilibrium is a constant challenge.

3)     Keel & Rudder Design

The keel and rudder are critical components of a sailboat’s underwater structure. The keel provides stability by preventing the boat from tipping over, while the rudder controls its direction. Keel design involves selecting the keel type (fin, bulb, or wing) and optimizing its shape for maximum hydrodynamic efficiency.

Rudder’s design focuses on ensuring precise control and maneuverability. Both components must be carefully integrated into the hull’s design to maintain balance and performance.

Keel and rudder design can be particularly challenging because they influence the boat’s behavior in different ways. A well-designed keel adds stability but also increases draft, limiting where the boat can sail. Rudder design must account for both responsiveness and the risk of stalling at high speeds.

4)     Sail & Rig Design

Sail and rig design play a pivotal role in harnessing wind power. Sail choice, size, and shape are tailored to the boat’s intended use and performance goals. Modern sail materials like carbon fiber offer lightweight and durable options.

The rig design involves selecting the type of mast (single or multiple), rigging configuration, and mast height. These choices influence the sailboat’s stability, maneuverability, and ability to handle varying wind conditions.

Balancing the sails and rig for optimal performance is a meticulous task. The sail plan should be designed to efficiently convert wind energy into forward motion while allowing for easy adjustments to adapt to changing conditions.

5)     Balance

Balancing a sailboat is crucial for its performance and safety. Achieving the right balance involves a delicate interplay between the hull, keel, rudder, and sail plan. Proper balance ensures the boat remains stable and responds predictably to helm inputs, even in changing wind conditions.

Balance is not a static concept but something that evolves as the boat sails in different wind and sea conditions. Designers must anticipate how changes in load, wind angle, and sail trim will affect the boat’s balance.

Achieving balance is both an art and a science, and it often requires iterative adjustments during the design and testing phases to achieve optimal results.

6)     Propulsion

While sailboats primarily rely on wind propulsion, auxiliary propulsion systems like engines are essential for maneuvering in harbors or during calm conditions. Integrating propulsion systems seamlessly into the boat’s design requires careful consideration of engine placement, fuel storage, and exhaust systems.

The choice of propulsion system, whether it’s a traditional diesel engine or a more eco-friendly electric motor, also impacts the boat’s weight distribution and overall performance.

7)     Scantling

Scantling refers to the selection of structural components and their dimensions to ensure the boat’s strength and integrity. It involves determining the appropriate thickness of the hull, deck, and other structural elements to withstand the stresses encountered at sea.

Scantling is a critical aspect of sailboat design, as it directly relates to safety. A well-designed boat must be able to withstand the forces exerted on it by waves, wind, and other environmental factors.

8)     Stability

Stability is a critical safety factor in sailboat design. Both upright hydrostatics and large-angle stability must be carefully assessed and optimized. This involves evaluating the boat’s center of gravity, ballast, and hull shape.

Achieving the right balance between initial stability, which provides comfort to passengers, and ultimate stability, which ensures safety in adverse conditions, is a delicate task. Designers often use stability curves and computer simulations to fine-tune these characteristics.

9)     Layout

The layout of a sailboat’s interior and deck spaces is a blend of functionality and comfort. Designers must consider the ergonomics of living and working aboard the vessel, including cabin layout, galley design, and storage solutions. The deck layout influences crew movements and sail handling.

Layout design also extends to considerations like ventilation, lighting, and noise control. Sailboats are unique in that they must provide both comfortable living spaces and efficient workspaces for handling sails and navigation.

10)  Design Evaluation

The final phase of sailboat design involves rigorous evaluation and testing. Computational fluid dynamics (CFD) simulations, tank testing, and real-world sea trials help validate the design’s performance predictions. Any necessary adjustments are made to fine-tune the vessel’s behavior on the water.

The evaluation phase is where the theoretical aspects of design meet the practical realities of the sea. It’s a crucial step in ensuring that the sailboat not only meets but exceeds its performance and safety expectations.

Conclusion:

In conclusion, sailboat design is a highly technical field that requires a deep understanding of hydrodynamics, engineering principles, and materials science. Naval architects and yacht designers meticulously navigate through the intricacies of hull design, keel and rudder configuration, sail and rig design, balance, propulsion, scantling, stability, layout, and design evaluation to create vessels that excel in both form and function. The harmonious integration of these elements results in sailboats that are not just seaworthy but also a joy to sail, and this process is a testament to the art and science of sailboat design.

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Video: See inside 9 of the most amazing modern sailing superyachts

• September 10, 2020

Sailing superyacht technology has come on in leaps and bounds in recent years - we take a closer look at nine of the most stunning examples...

1. Aquarius

The brief for Aquarius included that she should be, ‘an elegant, muscular sailing yacht with a classic profile for family enjoyment.’ But that barely scratches the surface of the main requirements for this giant ketch. The owners also wanted a yacht that would combine good seakeeping characteristics with performance, reliability and quality.

Essential features included relative simplicity, robustness of systems and a contemporary interpretation of elegant, classic lines, with a clean and uncomplicated appearance. Aquarius ’s graceful lines and timeless shape belie a rugged world cruiser configured to be self-sufficient for extended periods when voyaging well beyond the popular Med and Caribbean circuits. In addition, the yacht is welcoming for family and friends, while providing sufficient performance to compete in superyacht regattas.

Specifications

LOA: 56.18m (184ft 4in) LWL: 41.17m (135ft 1in) Beam: 9.51m (31ft 2in) Draught: 4.80m (15ft 9in) Displacement: 264 tonnes (591,360lbs) Mainsail: 520m2 (5,597ft2) Mizzen: 440m2 (4,736ft2) Blade: 430m2 (4,628ft2) Air draught: 58.50m (192ft 11in) Spars: Rondal carbon with Rondal/Carbo-Link continuous standing rigging Builder: Royal Huisman Launched: 2017

Photo: Baltic Yachts

2. Pink Gin VI

The Baltic 175 Pink Gin may have captured most of the headlines for her sheer size and cleverly engineered topside balconies, but below decks a collection of Cuban art and some phenomenal styling demand equal attention.

Mark Tucker’s team at Design Unlimited in the UK worked closely with the yacht’s owner, Professor Hans Georg Näder, with whom they had co-operated on his previous Pink Gin , to produce an unusual exercise in interior styling.

LOA: 53.90m (176ft 10in) LWL: 45.27 m (148ft 6in) Beam: 9.55 m (31ft 4in) Draft: 4.50-7.00 m (14ft 9in – 22ft 12in) Displacement: 250 tons (560,000lbs) Ballast: 79 tons (176,960lbs) Naval architect: Judel/Vrolijk & co Interior: Design Unlimited Builder: Baltic Launched: 2017

Article continues below…

Liara: The Baltic 112 superyacht designed to cruise the world in supreme comfort

Over the past decade we’ve been treated to the rise of the custom built cruiser-racer. Arguably inspired by the success…

Aquarius: Modern classic masterpiece makes for a surprisingly sensible superyacht

A demanding brief for Aquarius from experienced sailors has produced a masterpiece from some of the most experienced and talented…

The Baltic 142 Canova  may not be using the hydrofoils popularised by the America’s Cup , but her 29ft 6in long (9m) horizontal sliding foil employs the same principle of lift to reduce heel and boost speed. The designers of the Dynamic Stability System (DSS) say it could improve the performance of this super-cruiser by 20 per cent, delivering a sustained 25 knots – not bad for a superyacht that displaces 146 tonnes. This is the first time the DSS has been used in superyachting, but its benefits will be used for comfortable, fast long-distance cruising rather than gaining an edge on the racecourse.

With styling and interior design by Lucio Micheletti as well as the in-house team, Canova  sports a sleek, low deck saloon with a hard, fixed bimini extending over the forward cockpit area. Below, her vast deck saloon, providing panoramic views, forms the focal point of her luxury accommodation.

Unusually, the owner’s suite is located almost amidships, where motion is at its least, with further accommodation for six guests in three cabins. Other features include a Rondal rig with electric in-boom furling, a lifting keel and a propeller leg rotating through 180 degrees.

LOA: 43.3m (142ft 1in) LWL: 41.6m (136ft 6in) Beam: 9.m (29ft 6in) Draft: 3.8-6.5m (12ft 6in-21ft 4in) Displacement: 146.5 tons (328,160lbs) Naval architect: Farr Yacht Design Interior design: Baltic Yachts / Lucio Micheletti Exterior design: Lucio Micheletti Builder: Baltic Launched: 2019

Photo: Perini Navi

Part of the world’s largest sailing yacht series by length, Seven is hull number 3 in Perini Navi’s 60m ketch series, after Seahawk and Perseus 3 . Launched in 2017, she was feted for her groundbreaking interior lighting design throughout all five guest cabins. A powerful motor-sailer, her twin MTU engines and 47,000-litre fuel capacity mean a globe-trotting range of 3,600nm when motoring at 12 knots.

LOA: 60m (197ft) LWL: 50.4m (165ft 4in) Beam: 11.4m (37ft 4in) Draft: 4.3m-12.3m (14ft 1in – 40ft 4in) Mast height: 62.2m (204ft) Total sail area: 2,097 m2 (22,572ft2) Displacement: 575 tonnes (1,288,000 lbs) Naval architect: Ron Holland / Perini Navi Builder: Perini Navi Launched: 2017

Photo: Gilles Martin-Raget / Wally

This may be the fourth 100ft yacht designed to the Wallycento box rule, but it’s one that raises the bar with regard to combining form and functionality with outrageously cool aesthetics. Considering that Wally is yachting’s deity of style, that’s saying something.

Tango is at the very forefront of modern fast monohull design and advanced technology. Its stealthy black livery and long, low lines combine with a bold reverse sheerline to create a potent, powerful look. The ruthlessly clean deck is signature Wally. The image of the single helmsman on deck, with all that power and beauty controlled simply by the touch of a network of buttons on the pedestals, has become an icon for the Italian brand.

LOA: 30.48m (100ft) Beam: 7.20m (23ft 7in) Draught: 4.4-6.2m (14ft 5in-20ft 4in) Displacement (light): 47,500kg (104,720lb) Upwind sail area: 640m2 (6,889ft2) Downwind sail area: 1,398m2 (15,048ft2) Naval architecture: Mills Design Exterior design: Wally / Mills Design Interior design: Pininfarina Builder: Persico Marine Launched: 2017

Photo: Breed Media

The owner’s brief for Ngoni would be challenging for any size of yacht: “Build me a beast. Don’t build me a sheep in wolf’s clothing. This has to be an edgy and innovative weapon; fast and furious.” When the boat in question is a giant 58m (190ft) sloop with a displacement of nearly 400 tonnes this project was always going to push hard against existing boundaries of design, deck hardware and materials technology.

“The owner wanted me to take a fresh look at large yacht design,” Dubois recalled before his untimely death four years ago. “He wanted me to go back to my roots in the late 1970s and ’80s when we were designing race boats, but he also knew we had designed a number of high-performance yachts that were nevertheless seaworthy and comfortable cruisers. So I had to reset my internal computer, if you like, and look hard at how we could save weight and add strength.

“That’s how the reverse sheer came about. I was worried he might not like it. The next time we met in London I showed him the design and he loved it – in fact he gave me a big bear hug!”

LOA: 58.15m 190ft 9in LWL: 51.20m 167ft 12in Beam: 9.54m 31ft 4in Draught: 5.3m-81m (17ft 5in-26ft 7in) Displacement: 353 tons (778,224lb) Upwind sail area: 1,950m2 (20,989ft2) Downwind sail area: 3,093m2 (33,293ft2) Air draught: 75m (247ft) Naval architect: Ed Dubois Interior design: Paul Morgan / Rick Baker Builder: Royal Huisman Launched: 2017

Photo: Vitters Shipyard

Ahimsa is a 216ft sloop-rigged aluminum yacht, designed by the late Ed Dubois. Built with a combination of innovation and advanced technical craftsmanship, Ahimsa boasts a low superstructure and deck clean. Key features include the ability to hoist her mainsail in less than two minutes and tack the boat within 30 seconds.

The 83m carbonfibre mast is the largest ever produced by Southern Spars and had to be transported to The Netherlands in two pieces. As if that wasn’t impressive enough, Ahimsa ‘s Code 1 sail is the world’s largest artwork on canvas, designed by the Norwegian artist Magne Furuholmen.

LOA: 66m (216ft 6in) Mast height: 83m (272ft 4in) Naval architect: Ed Dubois Builder: Vitters Launched: 2012

Svea , the newest addition to the now nine-strong J Class fleet, is one of the most outstanding new yachts of modern times – a harmonious meeting of historic and modern design; a blend of J Class lines and maxi grand prix yacht technology.

All Js dazzle on the water, but Svea simply stops you in your tracks. Her lines and deck are kept spectacularly clean, thanks to the compact wheelhouse, sunken wheel and wonderfully low boom.

Her dark metallic grey hull and black and red sail wardrobe lend her timeless lines a slightly menacing appearance – a purposeful racing look that belies the luxurious interior below decks. The aggressive aesthetics are in keeping with her name, a Viking word (it means Swede).

LOA: 43.6m (143ft 1in) Interior design: Pieter Beeldsnijder / deVos deVries design Builder: Vitters/Bloemsma Launched: 2017

Not only is Liara a masterpiece of style, thanks to UK-based super designers Malcolm McKeon and Adam Lay combining to stunning effect, but she clearly represents a formidable amount of experience. And that all stems from the boss.

This is the fourth Liara for British serial yacht owner Tony Todd, who is now in his seventies. His initial brief was for a safe, comfortable family cruising yacht for circumnavigating the globe , hence the deep and well-protected cockpit. However, Todd has been racing yachts all his life, and once his competitive side kicked in and the odd regatta was mentioned, the speed, weight and deck layout to make this possible became critical features. The result is Liara , the definitive multi-role superyacht.

Specification

LOA: 112ft 0in (34.14m) LWL: 105ft 0in (32.00m) Beam: 25ft 11in (7.90m) Draught: 13ft 0in-20ft 2in (3.95m-6.15m) Displacement (light): 88 tonnes (194,000 lbs) Design: Malcolm McKeon / Adam Lay Builder: Baltic Launched: 2019

Attainable Adventure Cruising

The Offshore Voyaging Reference Site

• Sailboat Deck Layouts

I’m going to use the Outbound 46 as a base to write about optimal deck layouts for sailboats. Information that will help anyone to either select a good deck layout when buying a boat, or fix a screwed-up one on a boat they already have.

Good Deck Layouts Are Rare

That last sentence may surprise many since it would be logical to expect cruising sailboats to have good and functional deck layouts, but as an ex-sailmaker and longterm racer, the thing that never ceases to amaze me is that most boats, particularly those marketed as cruisers, come out of the yard with the rig and deck gear set up so poorly that actually sailing them is nothing but a huge chore, and it takes years for even a knowledgeable owner to sort things out—just read Colin’s trials and tribulations with the rig on his Ovni 435 to see what I mean.

This is so bad that I’m pretty sure that the popularity of in-mast and in-boom mainsail furling systems is in large part because most boats are so poorly set up for reefing that owners have been scared off simple and robust systems and toward complex, fragile, and expensive ones.

I will also write, once more, about speed. I know, we are cruisers, so why do we care? Well, up to you, but to me if we are going to really cruise under sail, rather than just motor around with an oversized flag pole and occasionally unroll a sail attached to it as we see so often these days, we might as well do it properly.

Seriously, a well set-up boat, efficiently reeling off the miles under wind power alone, is one of life’s sublime pleasures, and knowing that we can control the rig and shorten sail quickly and efficiently without automation or brute strength is the cherry on top.

Let’s look at how to do that:

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More Articles From Online Book: Sail Handling and Rigging Made Easy:

• Six Reasons To Leave The Cockpit Often
• Don’t Forget About The Sails
• Your Mainsail Is Your Friend
• Hoisting the Mainsail Made Easy—Simplicity in Action
• Reefs: How Many and How Deep
• Reefing Made Easy
• Reefing From The Cockpit 2.0—Thinking Things Through
• Reefing Questions and Answers
• A Dangerous Myth about Reefing
• Mainsail Handling Made Easy with Lazyjacks
• Topping Lift Tips and a Hack
• 12 Reasons The Cutter Is A Great Offshore Voyaging Rig
• Cutter Rig—Should You Buy or Convert?
• Cutter Rig—Optimizing and/or Converting
• Cruising Rigs—Sloop, Cutter, or Solent?
• The Case For Roller-Furling Headsails
• The Case For Hank On Headsails
• UV Protection For Roller Furling Sails
• In-Mast, In-Boom, or Slab Reefing—Convenience and Reliability
• In-Mast, In-Boom, or Slab Reefing —Performance, Cost and Safety
• Making Life Easier—Roller Reefing/Furling
• Making Life Easier—Storm Jib
• Swept-Back Spreaders—We Just Don’t Get It!
• Q&A: Staysail Stay: Roller Furling And Fixed Vs Hanks And Removable
• Rigid Vangs
• Rigging a Proper Preventer, Part 1
• Rigging a Proper Preventer—Part 2
• Downwind Sailing, Tips and Tricks
• Downwind Sailing—Poling Out The Jib
• Setting and Striking a Spinnaker Made Easy and Safe
• Ten Tips To Fix Weather Helm
• Running Rigging Recommendations—Part 1
• Running Rigging Recommendations—Part 2
• Two Dangerous Rigging Mistakes
• Rig Tuning, Part 1—Preparation
• Rig Tuning, Part 2—Understanding Rake and Bend
• Rig Tuning, Part 3—6 Steps to a Great Tune
• Rig Tuning, Part 4—Mast Blocking, Stay Tension, and Spreaders
• Rig Tuning, Part 5—Sailing Tune
• 12 Great Rigging Hacks
• 9 Tips To Make Unstepping a Sailboat Mast Easier
• Cruising Sailboat Spar Inspection
• Cruising Sailboat Standing Rigging Inspection
• Cruising Sailboat Running Rigging Inspection
• Cruising Sailboat Rig Wiring and Lighting Inspection
• Cruising Sailboat Roller Furler and Track Inspection
• Download Cruising Sailboat Rig Checklist

Hi John I could not agree with you more about how frequently boats with conventional mains are poorly set up for easy reefing and eventual dousing. It is another area where the maritime media/boatbuilders etc. have dropped the ball at educating owners how best to have their boat set up. Too many sailors (and their crew) get put off by a poor and difficult reefing set-up which likely means they have put off reefing and been over-canvased needlessly: always a lousy thing. Enough of that and they are buying a cabin in New Hampshire. I urge those looking at in-mast or in-boom furling to consider that reefing and dousing the main can be easy and fairly fast and with a minimum of effort on a boat that is well set up for it. I then enumerate the myriad down-sides of particularly, in-mast reefing/furling and the benefits of a conventionally rigged main. I am in no way a speed demon, but I like to sail and I like to sail well. You mention sublime pleasure in cranking out miles: my sublime pleasure often comes at watching superbly shaped sails at work; especially when in challenging weather, the third reef is in and working and that small sail is perfectly shaped to do its job and as bulletproof in functioning as can be devised. My best, Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy

I agree completely, particularly on the pleasure of looking at really good mainsail shape when reefed.

Hi John, I totally get your “simplicity” approach and at mast mainsail handling preference. It just wouldn’t work for us and I suspect for many other cruising couples. I think I can see at least one hatch in the Outbound 46 hard-dodger top, which means adjusting the halyard / reefing lines and setting the mainsail / twist, should be simple enough from the cockpit, if (big “IF” I know) the reefing lines are well set-up. And I personally like this set-up for short-handing. Our safety process requires a second crew to be in support, if someone leaves the cockpit (day or night, coastal or offshore). I would guess we could reef / shakeout a reef on the Outbound 46, without calling the off-watch crew – a real-plus in our book as we mostly sail two-up. Our first mate would not cruise with me if I left the cockpit every time we needed to take a reef in rough conditions. It’s that simple. And if something happened to me, there is no way she would go forward to the mast and handle the sail on her own. Whereas she can, and does, reef single handedly on our boat, and I would guess she could on the Outbound 46 set-up, which is almost identical to our boat – the difference is we have in-boom furling which simplifies operations further. Likewise, the outbound 46 set-up would be easy and safe to hoist / lower / reef the mainsail when single-handing. I see so many single-handing yachts sailing just with their headsails, I suspect because on-mast mainsail handling leaves no one in the cockpit, if something happens. I often single hand our yacht with no loss of efficiency and really enjoy it. Br. Rob

I just can’t see that twisting ones head to look up out of a small hatch to see the mainsail while simultaneously grinding a winch and operating clutches is ever going to provide the visibility and situation awareness of looking directly at the part of the sail you are tensioning while standing at the mast while right next to the luff where any hang ups can be quickly seen and dealt with. So yes, for sail trim the hatches may help a bit, but not for reefing. Also at night on the Outbound a headlamp will reflect off the hatch glass making visibility of the main effectively zero.

I agree that being able to reef and shake out without calling the off watch is vital, but we do that fine at the mast too. Phyllis and I are also not fans of the idea of calling the off watch every time someone leaves the cockpit since we feel that the disruption of rest outweighs and added benefit of so doing.

I guess that relates to our basic thinking that the deck, particularly as far as the mast is not an intrinsically hazardous place to be avoided, but simply part of the working area of the boat, just as the cockpit is. We feel that regularly visiting the mast in all weathers is vital since it will be required anyway for functions like setting a proper preventer, setting the pole, and moving the runners forward, not to speak of clearing any kind of SNAFU.

We also differ in that we evaluated in boom furling/reefing and rejected it as too fragile, difficult to fix at sea, and expensive for our needs. That was based on experience in that the boat I did was on for six weeks as guide on a trip to Greenland had one.

So, in summary, I guess we just see things in a fundamentally different way.

Like you I mostly sail singlehanded or effectively singlehanded and I don’t really regard going forward in a rising wind as a pleasurable experience, especially in the dark. I’d like to add granny bars at the mast but worry that they would be extra deck clutter and spoil “the look”. But I’ve got to say I’m with John on this one. There’s quite enough string in the cockpit already without adding seven more bits. And, while in boom furling does look attractive, for me its too reminiscent of the appalling old rotating boom mainsail furling system I had on my first yacht, a Folkboat. The sail shape one got on that in any but perfect conditions was sad to see.

The sailor who puts in an early reef is a happy sailor. And probably longer living. How often is one surprised at the improved performance that results from under-pressing the rig ? And, while there is a lot that can lengthen the time at the mast putting in a reef, shaking an unnecessary one out really is a matter of seconds.

In defence of modern in boom furling, the set is way better than it was in the bad old days of roller reefing mainsails. That said, my big problem with them is complexity and fragility. Probably fine for inshore sailing where if they break you can just take the main down and head for somewhere to wait for parts and with smooth water where you can fix it, but I would never take one offshore, and particularly not to the high latitudes. All this based on taking a yacht to Greenland with one.

I own a Outbound 46 hull#50. Would add the following. The hydraulic backstay is quite helpful reefing the Genoa. Put tension on that stay and she rolls up more easily. Unless you tune the rig with more tension on the solent stay then the Genoa stay when the backstay is untensioned you get headstay sag on the solent. You lose nothing upwind using the solent instead of the Genoa going upwind so the need to roll up the Genoa before tacking is a non issue as it ends up being a reaching or running sail. We stand single watches. I love having both the primaries (powered) and the headsail reefing lines an arms length away from the wheel. I can reef under control, by myself with no engine nor AP. Then go forward and deal with reefing the main. I can do it under Hydrovane. Not needing to bring anybody up from below is wonderful. I hate single line reefing on any boat. It better than in boom or in mast but not by much. If done get a Dutchman as well. That makes it easier to inch the main down and have both ends of the sail tension correctly as you can see what’s going on and the sail has no choice but to fold correctly. Outbound come single for first two and double for the third. Would think to get just two very deep reefs and make both double. I have the survey being done on Tuesday. Then she’s gone as we transition to a Norhavn. The Outbound is the best mom and pop blue water cruising boat there is imho.

I too am not a fan of single line reefing so I think your recommendation to go with two deef reefs each with two separate reefing lines would be a good one.

That’s how we went, but then as a comparatively heavy motorsailer, we tend to leave the full main up a little longer than some just to make the boat go. We have separate reefing lines, as well and have all halyards and related lines at the mast. We have preventers, staysail sheets, yankee jib sheets and occasionally, spinnaker sheets back to the winches (three pairs) in the aft cockpit position, where there is also end-boom mainsheeting (6:1) and a strong Garhauer traveller (3:1). Works for us to date. I have over the years become a touch suspicious about “convenience” unless the sea first makes its case.

I agree was many of your points and know by your article I am not going to convince you, but we love being able to put in and take out reefs in from the cockpit. We can easily put a reef in or shake a reef out in less than a minute on our 37 foot cruising boat. I have read Colin’s article and I think a single line for each reef is way too much friction. We use a second line to pull the tack into the right position at the goose neck. These lines on our boat are only 5/16. Each one is led from the reefing hook, through the reef tack crinkle to a carefully placed bullseye on the mast, through a pulley at the mast base and then back to a harken cam cleat next to my jammers. You never need to put this on a winch – the idea is to get the bullseye position such that you end up with the reef crinkle pulled into the goose neck at just the right position when the halyard is re-tensioned. The clew end is conventional – from a bowline positioned about 6 inches aft of where you could stretch out the foot of the sail at the reef point up through the reef clew cringle to pulleys at each end of the boom through a good block at the base of the mast and then to a jammer and winch at the cockpit. When putting in a reef we pull down on the tack line while easing the halyard. Don’t allow slack in the halyard – the jammer is cast off but the halyard is restrained by hand with a single turn around the winch. 2 or 3 times we will pause in this operation by locking the halyard jammer and pulling the slack out of all the other tack and clew reefing lines by hand. We have found that this is the secret to being able to complete the whole operation from the cockpit since minimizing slack loops prevents them getting caught up anywhere. We continue until the halyard is just past a mark on the halyard line and then put the tack line in the cam cleat. At night we shine a flashlight on the tack to make sure it is neatly pulled into the gooseneck and then tension the halyard on the winch. Once again take the time to take all the slack out of the other reef lines by hand. Put the clew reefing line on a winch and crank until you are happy with the foot and leach tension – you need to check this with a flashlight at night.

Our reefs can be put in in way less time than it takes to write about it quickly and safely from the cockpit without even having to put your jacket on. Because we can put in or shake out reefs in the main easily we do not procrastinate for a moment about reducing or increasing mainsail. Our record is 11 changes in a single 3 hour shift as a series or 20 minute squalls rolled through at night close to the equator on a passage from San Francisco to the Marquesas and the lone watchkeeper was busier than a one armed paper hanger reacting as the wind went up and down from 8 to 30 knots!

Sounds like a good system. And I agree that taking the slack out of the non-loaded reefing lines as you reef is important. We do the same at the mast.

Really glad to see you giving the Outbound a thorough look, John!

Having cruised full-time aboard an Outbound 46 from 2017–2019 (we no longer own the boat), I can report that the main halyard and reefing setup works exceptionally well. The only annoyance was, as you pointed out, somewhat poor ergonomics crouching under the dodger (I’m 6’3″). The dodger hatches are perfectly positioned (like everything else on the Outbound) so you can actually see the main while hoisting, reefing, and trimming.

I saw your response to Rob about working at the mast. I agree that the side decks and mast are “part of the working area of the boat”. On balance, considering all the factors, reefing from the cockpit gave us (my wife and me) more flexibility and more peace-of-mind than reefing at the mast, which we did on our previous boat (a Sabre 38).

Aside: I also appreciated how cockpit reefing lowered the behavioral “friction” of making the decision to reef. Leaving the cockpit (with all associated precautions) just feels… harder than staying in the cockpit. Reducing sail at the right time is one of the most critical components of safe and comfortable cruising, and I was glad I never had to “think twice” because I didn’t want to deal with leaving the cockpit. Perhaps that’s irrational, but so are we all 🙂 I think of it as behavioral systems engineering.

Interesting point on “behavioural” friction. It’s not a problem we have ever suffered from, probably because I actually like “ deck sports ” and as a ex-racer and sailmaker I can’t stand being under or over canvased, but I can certainly see that it could be an issue, particularly for people who have been subjected to poor deck layouts and therefore regard reefing as a huge chore, no matter how they do it.

That said, I think that this “behavioural friction” is something we should all work on overcoming and not give into or modify our boats to pander to it. In my experience, not getting out on deck regularly can lead to all kinds of problems, particularly being lazy about rigging proper preventers and generally checking things over from bow to stern at least twice a day, more often in heavy weather.

Don’t get me wrong, if you find in cockpit reefing works for you, that’s fine, it’s your boat, but if that leads to rarely leaving the cockpit for other vital functions, then I think it’s a mistake.

Perfect timing John.

After six weeks of hard work my right now my deck is a perfectly clear expanse of white. Almost literally a clean sheet of paper. (So far 60 litres of Jotun epoxies with another 16L of Hardtop AX to go.)

Up until this point I my general for the deck layout was heavily influenced by the majority opinion I kept encountering locally which was to run all the mainsail controls back to the cockpit. But because there is a major step in our coachroof which forces two 30 deg turns in all the lines, I was always a little apprehensive on friction. So after reading this article (and a similar one from Peter Smith) I’m inclined to follow your advice.

All my halyards can readily stay at the mast, but moving all the other mainsail lines, the reefs, topping lift, outhaul, cunningham and vang back to the mast creates quite a traffic jam around the base of the mast. Any hints on how best to organise particular brew of spaghetti?

The key to keeping that spaghetti organized is to keep all the reefing and outhaul lines on the boom, rather than lead them down to the deck. We have an article on that with photos here: https://www.morganscloud.com/2010/11/19/reefing-a-sailboat/

Note that since I wrote that, we changed from jammers to clutches.

The vang control is the exception to my rule, and should be lead aft to the cockpit. Or, on boats over about 30,000 lbs a hydraulic vang with control in the cockpit is a good solution.

Hi John and all, I was not going to wade in on this, but wish to underline a couple of points and make a suggestion. In my estimation, getting rid of friction is a safety issue and not merely convenience, in part because friction (among other things) causes skippers to hesitate doing the right thing. This is the case for a racing boat with strong crew, but far more the case for a cruising couple. Also, friction might mean that a job does not get done well: say a sloppy reef that hurts the sail and degrades sail shape and sailing efficiency. Finally, to often I suspect the push for electric winches etc. is a result of poor design and unnecessary friction in the system. An example is the retrofit of an electric main halyard winch before one installs slippery mainsail track (as well as adding low friction blocks that may be in the system). Getting rid of friction has a good start with slippery mainsail track and low friction blocks and wise design. Few boats are offshore ready as built/designed which is a shame as it is a subsequent expense in $$ and time that is not necessary. And we all like to think our boat is good-to-go from the get-go so it is hard to immediately replace new items. It would not be hard for manufacturers to get it right from the get-go at little additional expense. Slippery track allows one to raise the main almost the whole way from the mast if design allows for full body stretch to get your whole weight into play. This changes a few minutes winching “ordeal” into a few seconds exertion followed by a few turns by winch handle to tension: easily done whether at the mast or under the dodger. This is convenient and fast, but not necessarily a safety issue. The safety aspect comes when reefing is done easily and without hang-up, when reefing/dousing is accomplished going downwind in a breeze, and when dropping the main and it comes down like an express train. My boat came with in-cockpit reefing (1st 2 reefs with the third reef downhaul done at the mast) and we have made it work and like it: in part because either of us can quickly and efficiently do the first 2 reefs alone from the cockpit whereas going on deck at night in boisterous conditions, we wake the off-watch. (We do “deck tour” inspections at change of watch when both of us are awake and kitted up.) Reefing from the cockpit, for us, takes a good deal of prior preparation at the onset of the season: mainly ensuring that line markers are in the correct place on all reef lines and halyard for each reef. This gets us very close to a good reef, but sometimes takes a bit of fine-tuning as things settle down and stretch out as the sail fills. This is easily seen from the cockpit and is accomplished by tweaking the reef/halyard lines from the cockpit. As to the spaghetti that is so often mentioned as the major downside of in-cockpit reefing, our solution is to snake all “tails” down the companionway. This is only done when reefed down and accumulating lines. On Alchemy, this could be (when deeply reefed and using all lines for adjustment) up to nine lines: 2 reef downhauls, 3 reef outhauls, 1 halyard, 1 main sheet, and 2 traveler lines. (Sounds terrible, doesn’t it!) These tails then reside comfortably on our engine box ½ way down to the floor or, at times, on the floor next to the bottom step. Lines, stored in this manner, are always good to go without tangles or the need to uncoil and ensure they run free. The lines, being lead next to and held to the sides of the ladder, never interfere with safe access to the steps. There are times, of course, where we wish to close up and when that occurs, we can do so with the washboards in and the hatch mostly closed. Those fortunately rare times where we wish to be fully closed up, securing the tails in the cockpit so they are not in the way, but ready to be worked takes a bit of work, but is no big deal. I suspect not all companionway designs lend themselves to this solution, but it has worked a peach for us for decades, and may help with the “spaghetti” mess for some boats where cockpit reefing is chosen. My best, Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy Ps. It has not been mentioned, I believe, but I would guess that the size of one’s boat may play a part in the choice/comfort level of going on deck in boisterous conditions. Bigger boats are just a lot more stable and predictable in their motion, smaller boats livelier and quicker to react to a wave slap or wind burp.

I totally agree on adding a slippery mainsail luff track. Adding ours a few years after we bought the boat is definitely the change we have made with the largest benefit.

Great. I’ll implement that. I hadn’t thought of double ending the reefing lines so that you can work from both sides.

I’ve also had a good yarn with a local with a very similar boat and 30 years of continuous live on the boat experience. He made an interesting observation on the lines led aft vs at the mast debate; his decision point is ‘if you an offshore sailor then reef at the mast’. His reasoning is that the longer passage the more likely something will go wrong, the more important it is you are well accustomed to leaving the cockpit in adverse conditions. And that applies to the whole crew. At the same time he acknowledges there is no absolute answer, that like everything else the decision is a compromise, and others will lead the lines aft for reasons that work for them.

He backs this up with good lifelines and a solid mast pulpit. Both of which I’m going to implement as well as per your articles in the past.

Thats an interesting way to look at the decision. But the more I think about it the more I worry that the trend to aft lines combined with cockpit enclosures is producing a generation of sailors who regard the deck as a scary place to be avoided, which I think is a very worrying trend. I have an article brewing on that.

That said, I’m sure there are sailors who are comfortable on deck and have the lines lead aft, which is all good.

Point being that I’m pretty sure that not going out on deck regularly is actually more dangerous than doing so.

Hi John, You write: “Point being that I’m pretty sure that not going out on deck regularly is actually more dangerous…” Good point. Take, for example, the learning curve for working the boat with harnesses attached so as to not get tangled or so frustrated as to unclip. If this is not done with regularity, such as during regular deck tours, then it will be more difficult when it comes to needing to work the boat in boisterous conditions. Or using the deck tour time to find handholds when heeled over 15-20 degrees so that your hand knows instinctively where they are at night with spray in your face. My best, Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy

The cockpit enclosures bother me. Particularly in our tight, high-traffic waters, I think they take away too much visibility and too much situational awareness. Three times out of four, if I have to take evasive action despite being the stand-on vessel, I’ll notice a full cockpit enclosure on the boat (power or sail) that didn’t see me.

We actually took our soft dodger down entirely last week and are finding that, in our local conditions (where waves do *not* break over the deck), the extra visibility is way more valuable than the shelter.

All lines led aft often makes for a real mess of spaghetti (read: tripping hazard) around the companionway. Trip-and-fall is, IMHO, likely a bigger risk than slipping overboard from the deck. I’m surprised by how many designers & builders think that a line just ends at the winch, and forget about the 50 feet hanging off beyond that. (It’s an issue at the mast, too; a lot of boats seem to have no good place to put coils of excess halyard, reefing line, etc. once the lines are tensioned.) I also see a lot of boats with no good places to clip a harness tether or rig a jackline, and am starting to think that this particular issue needs to be addressed at the “textbooks and engineering design standards” level.

I agree on the dangers of cockpit enclosures. The boat that nearly hit me last summer was being run from a totally buttoned up cockpit enclosure: https://www.morganscloud.com/2019/08/24/dont-alter-course-to-port/

That said, I think that cockpit enclosures can be used safely, like most things, as long as we keep them open when we should so we can see and hear.

Bottom line, buttoned up cockpit enclosures are just another manifestation of the fundamental problem: putting comfort ahead of safety.

I wonder if it’s partly related to the boat’s seakindliness. A large, long-for-its-displacement yacht like MC has a much gentler action at sea than a lightweight, beamy, modern, race-inspired, accomodation-maximised-for-LOA “cruiser.” Leaving the cockpit in a small light boat is a lot scarier than doing it on a large heavy one.

You might be right, but the Outbound 46 would not fall into that class.

Also, my thinking would be don’t own a boat, at least for offshore sailing, that scares you so much that you don’t want to leave the cockpit.

Regarding backstay tensioners – I am pondering my head how to handle twin (not split) backstays. For split backstays you might use a tensioner car as you had linked to, but this will not be possible for twins. I notice that MC has twin backstays, how did you set it up to allow symmetric tensioning/slacking them?

The best solution is two hydraulic rams plumbed to the same pump. Set up this way, they automatically equalize tension between the two stays.

John, thank you for teaching us North Americans a new phrase today “poor diddums”,I like that.

As a retired rigger, if is even possible to be one, I could not agree with you more on not leading everything back to the cockpit. Very expensive and all that hardware sends friction through the roof. Just leave it on the mast where it belongs. My customers would say, but it’s not safe to go out of the cockpit at night or when the wind starts kicking up. If it’s not safe to leave the cockpit, you need to make it safe to leave the cockpit. You need a good Jack line system such as the one you described. You need a good hand holds so no matter where you are on deck there is something to hold onto. Solid hand rails rather than stanchions and wire. Best if you don’t have to bend over to find them. Handrails that when you stick your hand out that’s where they are. At the very minimum some kind of a deck edge so you don’t go sliding off the deck, bulwarks are even better. Mast bars that allow you to wrap a leg around to free up both hands are a great addition.

When it comes to hoisting the mainsail, or reefing it. A low friction system is the only way to go.. Finally broke down put a Harken bat car system on including bearings on the intermediate slides. Easy to raise the main, very easy to reef. Does not matter what the wind direction it is when reefing. Mark the reef points on the halyard with whippings so that you can feel them in the dark. It’s always a chore when you drop the sail a lot farther than you needed to. Only to have to winch it back up when it’s full of wind.

The photo of the mast base turning blocks illustrates one of my little pet peeves. The shackles are not safety wired. After having the main sheet blocks, come adrift from the traveler one day, thankfully in light air. I safety wire every shackle not taken on and off on a regular basis. Including roller furling headsail shackles.

I could not agree more!

And I agree on shackles too. That said, for roller furlers and the like I have had good luck with the self locking shackles that have little flats on the non-threaded side of the pin hole that stop the pin backing out.

Hi David and John, And I have had good luck with a little dab of silicone on the threads. I don’t like sharp wire ends about near sails or where line can be dragged over them like at the base of the mast. It is arguable that my skill at tucking them out of trouble could use improvement. Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy

Hello John! I have enjoyed reading your many articles over the past few years. This deck layout one is an excellent discussion and observations. I went through the same process several years ago before purchasing a new boat. I settled on an X-Yacht Xc38 with a John Mast. It has an outstanding deck layout whereby we sail short handed all the time and I have sailed in several long distance single handed races with some horrible weather. I have added inboard jacklines which increases safety when going to the mast (very infrequently) or the foredeck when hoisting the asymmetrical spinnaker or Code 0. I installed a rope clutch on the mast for single handed hoisting of the spinnaker and Code 0 sails. We did put an electric winch for the mainsail halyard! It is a well made offshore cruiser/racer.

Hi Stanley,

I have long been a fan of X-Yacht. Looks like a really fun boat.

I do like lines and halyards at the mast for many reasons explained here. My vintage Tartan 40 has everything except jib halyard led to cockpit. A tides marine track allows me to hoist main to nearly masthead from cockpit. And better yet, a clam cleat installed on mast a few feet below the main halyard exit allows me to even more easily hoist main from the mast, place halyard in clam cleat, and then pull in slack and tension from cockpit. Clam cleat releases and stays well clear once line is led through sheaves. For my use this is enough of a “best of both worlds“ compromise that I won’t go through trouble of moving winches and lines. And I do like being able to drop main from behind dodger in a squall into the cradle cover. I recommend everyone with aft led main halyard at minimum install the clam cleat as it greatly improves ease of raising main particularly with lazy jacks.

Hi Michael,

That sounds like a good idea.

The debate of cockpit versus mast based reefing is an interesting one.  In the compromises of boats, our boat came with everything done from the cockpit and it would be very difficult to retrofit to mast based reefing so I have never really considered it.  This works okay for us as the loads are relatively light due to being a smaller boat and we do not have a big enclosure so vision is not overly impaired (the boat came with a full cockpit enclosure that didn’t even feel safe for motoring so it has never been used).  Like Dick mentions above, we send reef line tails down the companionway in most conditions and it works well.  To me, the best part about this setup is that it is safe and easy to reef with a single person on deck when there are lobster pots around preventing long absences from the autopilot controls.  I suppose that you could get an autopilot remote and bring it to the mast but in the cockpit, it is easy to hit a course change on the autopilot in the middle of reefing.  One other thing that I like is that I can get the jib down (hank-on) into a position where it is secure enough for a little bit while steering simply using a downhaul that is led aft, this is super helpful coming into harbors.

If we had our boat setup as a primarily offshore boat, I suspect that I would prefer to do everything at the mast and of boats that I have sailed on, generally the ones done at the mast are better.  The issue with pot buoys would go away and the clutter in the cockpit would be a bigger deal.  Similarly, the position of the primaries may well be dictated by what the boat is being used for.  Offshore, most people don’t hand steer and there tend to be very few people on the boat making forward in the cockpit a good option.  Coastal, many more people will be hand steering and there are often people sitting in the way of winches that are further forward.  Our boat actually has the winches further forward and when sailing solo, I would strongly prefer having them aft.  It is especially the case when short tacking somewhere when I end up steering with 1 foot so that I can reach both the wheel and the winch, otherwise I would need to use the autopilot which is not my preference (I know that I am weird on this one, even offshore I hand-steer whenever we are sailing and there aren’t other things requiring attention, I suspect this comes from growing up on boats without windvanes or autopilots).

One thing I didn’t see discussed with lines led aft is what it does to winch ergonomics.  I find that I have no problem hand hauling up the main most of the way on up to mid 40’ers with lines led aft assuming that you can stand back behind the dodger and not be hunched over.  The problem comes once the winch gets involved.  The ergonomics under a dodger tend to be terrible and in many cases where the dodger was not part of the original design, you can’t even get a full rotation on the winch handle.  If you were able to raise the sail most of the way by hand, then this isn’t a huge deal.  After one of the discussions on this site in the last year, we procured a ratcheting winch handle and it makes this much better, thanks for pointing those out.  Where it gets really bad is sending someone up the mast.  I have sailed on boats where cranking a 125lb person to the top of the mast completely wears out a big grinder type due to the poor ergonomics.  On our own boat, if my wife is going up, I use the halyard winch as a turn of direction and crank her up with a primary.  If I am going up, jumaring is the name of the game provided that we are in a calm enough spot.  With halyards at the mast, I find all of this a ton easier.

And I agree with all of the other parts of the article too.

A good analysis, as usual. By the way, I did mention the problem of winch ergonomics in the post, although not as clearly as you did:

Worse still, on the Outbound we will be forced to bend down by the hard dodger—this is an ergonomic nightmare. The result of all this inefficiency is that the main must be ground most of the way up on a winch, which makes an electric halyard winch near-mandatory.

As to winch position, as you say it depends on how often you steer. That said the Outbound does not make sense to me since when steering the mainsheet is way too far to reach (under the dodger), and when not steering the jib winches are a ways from both the mainsheet and the dodger. To me an idea short handed set up is so that one can reach both main and jib sheet winches from whatever our preferred position is. Been thinking about this a lot for our next boat which we will be sailed inshore a lot, steering more, and quite often single handed.

Hi John, Sorry, I had missed that your statement included winch ergonomics the first time around.

If you are short tacking up a channel, then having the main winch less accessible is fine but for other changes, you are right that having the mainsheet nearby is helpful.  What we do which isn’t perfect is to play the traveler which I can control from behind the helm thanks to long tails but this requires a long traveler with low loads and even then, once you get to broad reaching, you need to use the sheet and you need to use the sheet if you want to change twist.  The other thing to keep in mind that I can think of is what you are doing during a chicken gybe where having a single person handling all sheets can sometimes be problematic.  On smaller boats, I often find myself standing at the wheel, mainsheet in hand with 1-2 turns on the winch.  Once you practice a bit, you can get really reliable at flicking a turn off from 10′ away provided there isn’t too much load on the line, putting another on is also doable but I find it sometimes takes multiple tries.

I could not agree more about having two sets of tracks for headsails. We have inboard and reaching tracks for our working jib, staysail and storm jib. The one thing that has always had me see the dollar’s flying off the sails was when changing from one track to the other or when adjusting our pin cars.

While building our steel boat, I really wanted to use the adjustable cars, but they were too expensive at the time. All of this while working full time and raising a family. Then there was the epiphany one day a month ago. I took a piece of 6mm spectra cored double braid 2 m long. Stripped off 60 cm of cover off. Spliced in a 6 cm eye in. Whip the other end and that’s all you need. To use, pass the eye around something good and strong that is within a short distance from the loaded car. Examples, stantions welded to the deck, perforated toe rails, other sheeting cars even if the are in use. Pass the end through the eye. Take the other end to the loaded sheet forward of the car and tie it to the sheet using a rolling hitch. Snug it up, ease the sheet to get the load off the car. Adjust the car, move from one track to another, whatever you need to do. Sheet her home. You might have a bit of leech flutter, but absolutely no flogging! It’s only been a few weeks since I put this together. And have found many uses well beyond my original application. To store it while keeping it handy. I fold it in half twice then luggage tag it to a cabin top handrail. Just makes you wonder sometimes why did it take me 18 years to figure something so simple and cost effective to make and use.

Good way to save the sails. As you say, flogging is terrible for them.

We used to do something very like it back in the day when changing headsails while racing. Called it a “changing sheet”.

It seems to me that it is much more important how the lines are lead and how friction is minimized than whether the lines are lead aft. That means good hardware – blocks and sailtracks, and having only one 90 degree-bend at the mast-foot. A 30 or 45 degree redirection well executed doesn’t add that much friction. That also means avoiding single-line reefing and having a winch setup that is ergonomically sound.

TP 60ies that go around the world non-stop have everything led aft and it clearly works single-handed in very rough conditions. So do Class 40ies, though these “only” do 20 to 30 days non-stop. So do the (Volvo) Ocean race boats and the line-handling works like a charm (taking advantage of multi-person grinders, though).

Even so, I would go forward twice a day and check everything thoroughly, but I would do so during the day when I chose the time, not when I have to – possibly in the worst of times.

Hi John, Great article as always.

Curious about your take on the mainsheet routing on certain Amel Ketches where the traveler is forward of the dodger and the sheet is run aft over the dodger and enclosure to the mizen mast. (links/image below)

Also, are the effects of a traveler greatly affected when raised? Say, if the Boreal in your example had a flat dodger with traveler or like the arch mounted traveler seen on certain Hunters.

https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BhQCF6mH238/W_8EN5MTOPI/AAAAAAABZqw/KSNjlEqzaQUVeBfzAbHCsLkTBMn65-lIwCLcBGAs/s1600/2017.10%2BGrenade%2BMartinique%2B%25289%2529.JPG

https://itboat.com/uploads/ae64/f5e25fdb8353.jpg

It seems a pity to have a nice safe traveler position like that and then lead the mainsheet in such a way as it can garrotte a crew member. If it were me designing the system I would go with a “German Mainsheet system” with the track where it is and the mainsheet double ended and lead back from blocks below the gooseneck to winches either side of the cockpit.

And yes, raising the mainsheet traveler closer to the boom enables windward sheeting with a shorter track.

Hey John, New to AAC, loving it so far, trying to soak up as much as I can. I am looking to re-rig my 1980 Ingrid 38 ketch, following the simple is best approach you teach here. We are preparing to sail her from San Diego to Japan (where we live) across the south pacific. Do you know any good riggers in the Southern California area? Boat is in San Diego.

Early this year I did a major refit of my Islander 36 with the excellent support of the Ventura Harbor Boatyard. Work completed included a rebuilt mast step, new cap/intermediate shroud chain plates, and new standing rigging. The boatyard recommended a local rigger, Kim Weir, and I was extremely pleased with his work. Without hesitation, I recommend the services of VHBY and Kim Weir.

Thanks for coming up on that.

Sorry, I have never sailed on the west coast, so don’t have any experience with riggers there. That said, Brian Toss’s old shop is still in business run by guys Brian taught, so that might be an option, although a ways from you: http://briontoss.com

Also see Steve’s comment.

No one has mentioned self-tacking jibs. Having owned two boats with them the thought of going back to winching every time you tack -particularly when singlehanded- fills me with horror. Huge genoas are, in any case, only a relic from ancient rating rules. Whether a jib boom ( particularly the internal boom as used on Freedom sloops) or jib traveller is used, short tacking becomes an effortless exercise. A small jib on a traveller can be trimmed more easily and efficiently than a Genoa. The mainsail is always the prime driver; the performance gain from oversized headsails is less than you think, and in these days of easily deployed offwind headsails is not a consideration off the wind.

I agree with most all you say, except I have never been a fan of jib booms, probably something to do with being naturally clumsy so I don’t need anything else to trip over on the foredeck!

Anyway, just loving sailing our J/109 with her big mainsail and blade jib.

On an otherwise good boat would you recommend moving the lines from the cockpit to the mast if you were going to have an e-wincher anyway, which would presumably overcome the extra friction while still giving the operator enough feel to know if something was going wrong?

Way too many variables to answer that: boat, usage, crew, how well the boat is set up with lines aft, and on it goes. That said, my 109 is lines aft and the wincher makes all the difference to practicality so I have no plans to change. That reminds me, I should do a tip on why.

Messing about in boats since 1975.  Online Since 1997.

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SEVEN Yacht Layout & GA Plans

58.72m  /  192'8 | perini navi | 2017.

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Boating Dock: Comprehensive Guide to Boat Dock Designs and Plans

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When it comes to enhancing your waterfront experience, choosing the right boat dock design is crucial. Whether you’re a homeowner looking to install a personal dock or a marina owner seeking a large-scale docking solution, understanding the various boat dock designs and plans available can make all the difference. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll explore the different types of boat dock designs and plans, providing you with the insights needed to make an informed decision.

Why Boat Dock Designs and Plans Matter

Boat dock designs and plans are essential because they determine the functionality, durability, and aesthetic appeal of your dock. A well-designed dock can provide a safe and convenient place for mooring boats, facilitate waterfront activities, and enhance the value of your property. Conversely, a poorly designed dock can lead to maintenance issues, safety hazards, and diminished waterfront enjoyment.

Types of Boat Dock Designs

1. floating docks.

Floating docks are versatile and adaptable , making them a popular choice for various applications. These docks are buoyant and rise and fall with the water level, ensuring accessibility regardless of tide changes.

Advantages of Floating Docks

• Versatility: Suitable for fluctuating water levels and various water conditions.
• Ease of Installation: Quick and easy to install and the ability to relocate as needed.
• Durability: Made from high-quality materials that resist wear and tear.

2. Piling Docks

Piling docks are supported by pilings driven into the seabed or lakebed, providing a sturdy and permanent docking solution. These docks are ideal for locations with consistent water levels .

Advantages of Piling Docks

• Stability: Offers a solid and permanent structure.
• Longevity: Designed to withstand harsh weather conditions.
• Customizable: Can be tailored to specific needs and preferences.

3. Crib Docks

Crib docks are constructed using a framework of logs or timbers filled with rocks, creating a solid and stable structure. These docks are typically used in areas with calm water.

Advantages of Crib Docks

• Strength: Provides a robust and stable docking platform.
• Aesthetic Appeal: Natural materials blend well with the environment.
• Durability: Long-lasting with minimal maintenance.

Key Considerations for Boat Dock Designs and Plans

Location and environment.

The location and environmental conditions play a significant role in determining the best boat dock design. Consider factors such as water depth, tide fluctuations, wave action, and the type of seabed or lakebed.

Intended Use

Your dock’s intended use will influence its design and features. For example, a dock for personal use may require fewer amenities than a commercial marina dock. Determine whether you need features like boat lifts, storage, or seating areas.

Material Selection

Choosing the right materials is essential for the durability and functionality of your dock. Common materials include wood, aluminum, and composite. Each material has its own set of benefits and maintenance requirements.

Popular Dock Materials

• Wood: Offers a classic look but requires regular maintenance.
• Aluminum: Lightweight, durable, and low maintenance.
• Composite: Combines the best features of wood and plastic, providing durability with minimal upkeep.

Unpacking Boating Dock Essentials

When planning your boating dock, it’s important to consider the essential elements that will make your dock functional and user-friendly. This includes dock layout, accessibility, and safety features.

Dock Layout

A well-thought-out dock layout ensures efficient use of space and enhances the overall functionality. Consider including sections for boat mooring, recreational activities, and storage.

Accessibility

Accessibility is key to a successful boating dock design. Ensure that your dock has ramps or gangways that accommodate all users, including those with mobility challenges.

Safety Features

Safety should always be a top priority. Incorporate features like non-slip surfaces, proper lighting, and sturdy railings to prevent accidents and ensure a safe environment for all users.

Designing a Customized Dock

Customization is one of the significant benefits of modern boat dock designs and plans . Tailoring your dock to your specific needs ensures that it meets all your requirements and enhances your waterfront experience.

Steps to Customize Your Dock

• Assess Your Needs: Determine the primary purpose of your dock and the features you need.
• Consult with Experts: Work with dock design professionals to create a plan that fits your vision.
• Choose Materials: Select the best materials based on your location, budget, and maintenance preferences.
• Plan for the Future: Consider future needs and potential expansions when designing your dock.

Choosing the right boat dock designs and plans is essential for maximizing your waterfront experience. Whether you opt for a floating dock, piling dock, or crib dock, understanding your needs and the environmental conditions will guide you in making the best decision. So, what steps would you take to organize your living space? Begin by planning your dock layout, selecting the right materials, and incorporating essential features for functionality and safety.

If you’re looking to design a customized and durable boating dock, AccuDock is here to help. Our high-quality floating dock systems are tailored to meet your specific needs, ensuring a seamless and enjoyable waterfront experience. Contact AccuDock for personalized boat dock design consultations.

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Home - Blog - Parts of a Boat: Understanding the Essentials with Ease

Parts of a Boat: Understanding the Essentials with Ease

David Ciccarelli

August 26, 2024

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Embarking on a boating adventure requires more than just a sense of excitement; it demands a solid understanding of the vessel beneath your feet. Whether you’re a seasoned sailor or a curious novice, grasping the fundamental parts of a boat is essential for both safety and enjoyment.

In this article, we break down the key components of a boat in a straightforward and accessible manner. From the hull to the helm and everything in between, you’ll gain the knowledge to confidently identify and understand the various parts that make up these incredible machines.

Boat Anatomy Overview

Let’s dive into the key parts of a boat, focusing on the hull and the deck. These sections are essential for understanding how a boat operates and what makes each type unique.

Understanding the Hull

The hull is the main body of the boat. It’s the part that sits in the water, providing buoyancy. Different types of hull designs include planing, displacement, and semi-displacement.

Planing Hulls: These hulls lift out of the water quickly, reducing drag and enabling faster travel.

Displacement Hulls: These move through the water, offering more stability and smoother rides, especially in rough seas.

A boat’s stability and speed largely depend on its hull type. Larger vessels often have deep V-shaped hulls for better handling in rough waters. The material of the hull can vary from fiberglass to aluminum , each having pros and cons.

The Deck and Its Components

The deck is the flat surface on top of the hull, where you walk and place equipment. Key components here include the bow, stern, and cockpit.

Bow: The front part of the boat. It often has storage compartments or seating areas.

Stern: The back part of the boat. It usually houses the engine if it’s an outboard motor.

Cockpit: The area where you control the boat. It contains the steering wheel, navigation systems, and control panels.

Other important deck parts include the cleats, which secure ropes, and the pulpit, which has a safety rail at the front. Each plays a vital role in the boat’s operation and safety.

Crucial Boat Sections

Bow: The Front End

The bow is the front part of the boat. It’s designed to cut through the water, creating less resistance and helping with smooth navigation. The bow usually has a pointed or rounded shape to achieve better hydrodynamics.

The bow is the first part to meet the water when you’re moving forward . This section also affects the boat’s overall stability and balance. Additionally, many boats have a bowsprit, a pole extending from the bow for attaching sails.

Knowing your bow’s position helps with docking and maneuvering in tight spaces. So, look for it when you’re steering your vessel.

Stern: The Rear End

The stern is the back part of the boat. It’s where you’ll often find the transom, the flat surface at the very end. This area is crucial for mounting the boat’s engine.

When you move aft, you head toward the stern. The stern plays a key role in determining how the boat handles. For instance, a low stern can help with stability in rough waters.

Sometimes, the stern includes a swim platform or ladder for easy access to the water. This part of the boat is especially important if you’re into watersports.

Port Side: Left of the Vessel

The port side is the left side of the boat when you’re facing forward, toward the bow. Mariners use this term to avoid confusion, especially when giving directions.

To help remember, “port” has the same number of letters as “left.” Also, the port side is marked with a red light in the dark to ensure safety and proper navigation at night.

Understanding the port side is essential for proper anchoring and docking. Knowing which side is port helps you communicate better with your crew and other boats when maneuvering.

Starboard Side: Right of the Vessel

The starboard side is the right side of the boat when you’re facing forward. This term helps sailors avoid confusion, especially in emergencies or when coordinating maneuvers.

To remember: “starboard” sounds like “star right.” The starboard side is marked with a green light for nighttime navigation. This ensures everyone on the water knows which direction you’re headed.

Knowing your starboard side helps with many activities, from docking to sailing. It also enhances communication with other boats and your crew, making operations smoother and safer.

Essential Navigation and Control Features

The helm: controlling the boat.

The helm is where you control the boat. It includes the steering wheel or tiller and the rudder, which steers the vessel. It’s usually located in the cockpit or on the flybridge in larger boats, giving you a good view.

Sometimes, the helm also features navigation lights to help you see and be seen at night.

The rudder plays a key role in maneuvering. It’s a flat piece behind the boat that moves back and forth when you turn the wheel or tiller, changing the boat’s direction. Simple, right?

Masts and Sails: The Tools of Sailboats

On a sailboat, the mast stands tall and holds the sails. The sails catch the wind and propel the boat forward. Rigging refers to the ropes and lines that control the sails, including tasks like tacking, which is changing direction with the wind.

The sails come in different types, like the mainsail and the jib. Each has a different role. The mainsail is the big one in the middle, while the jib is smaller and at the front.

Remember, mastering the rigging and sails can greatly affect how smoothly my sailboat glides through the water!

Safety and Mooring Equipment

When it comes to boating , ensuring your vessel’s and crew’s safety is crucial. This includes having the right mooring systems and equipment to secure your boat. Let’s take a closer look at some key components.

Anchor and Cleats: Docking and Anchoring Basics

Every boat needs a reliable anchor to keep it in place when not in motion. Anchors come in various types, such as plow, fluke, or mushroom, each suited for different seabeds. But having the right anchor isn’t enough; you also need strong cleats. Cleats are metal fittings on the deck where you tie off your mooring lines.

Properly using cleat hitch knots ensures that your boat is securely tied to the dock. Always make sure the cleats are bolted down well to avoid mishaps. For safety, keep spare mooring lines on hand.

Fenders: Protecting the Vessel

Fenders are crucial for preventing damage to your boat while it’s docked. These are essentially bumpers that absorb shock and prevent scratches or dents. You can find fenders in various shapes and sizes, from cylindrical to round.

The key is to hang them at the correct height to cushion your boat and the dock or other vessels. Regularly check your fenders for wear and tear, and replace them if they show signs of damage. Always have a couple of extra fenders in storage, just in case.

Engine and Propulsion

A boat’s engine and propulsion system are the heart and muscles that drive it through the water. From various types of engines to the way propellers function, these elements work together to ensure smooth sailing.

Propellers: Turning Energy into Motion

A propeller takes the power from the engine and converts it into thrust, moving the boat forward. Whether the engine is an inboard engine housed within the hull or an outboard engine mounted on the stern, the propeller’s role is crucial.

The propeller blades create a difference in water pressure, pulling water in and pushing it backward, propelling the boat forward. The size and shape of the propeller blades impact speed and efficiency.

Engines and propellers have to be well-matched. For example, a big boat needs a larger propeller to push more water. Maintenance is also vital to keep the system in top shape.

In short, without a functioning propeller, your boat isn’t going anywhere.

Supplementary Boat Parts

Knowing about the extra parts that make it even better is important to enjoy a smooth and safe boating experience. We’ll explore components that keep your boat dry and make recreation more fun.

Bilge and Bulkheads: Keeping Water at Bay

The bilge is the lowest part of the boat, where water can collect. Water can seep in from splashes, leaks, or even rain. A bilge pump is used to pump this water out. Without it, you’d be constantly bailing out water like a sailor in old times! I always recommend having a reliable bilge pump.

Bulkheads are vertical partitions that divide the boat into sections. They give the boat structure and help prevent flooding. Imagine one section getting flooded; bulkheads keep the water from spreading. It’s like having watertight walls inside your boat.

You usually find bilge pumps near the bilge, often installed to pump water out when it reaches a certain level automatically. That way, less worry for you. Bulkheads, meanwhile, are positioned at crucial points to ensure your boat remains stable and safe.

Swim Platforms and Casting Decks: Recreation and Sport

Swim platforms are flat surfaces at the back of the boat, just above the waterline. They make it easy to get in and out of the water. If you like swimming or just dangling your feet in the water, you’ll love it. A good platform should be sturdy and slip-resistant.

Casting decks are spaces on the boat designed for fishing . They give you a stable area to cast your line. These decks often come with livewells to keep your catch fresh. Imagine standing on a firm deck and reeling in a big one without losing your balance—that’s what a casting deck is for.

Both swim platforms and casting decks are designed to enhance fun moments on the water, adding both convenience and enjoyment.

Types and Functions of Boats

There are various types of boats, each designed for different purposes and functions. Some are used for recreation, while others are essential for fishing or transportation.

Local Traditions and Various Vessel Functions

Local traditions often influence boat designs. For example, whaleboats are long and narrow. They’re designed for speed and maneuverability to catch whales.

Fishing boats are equipped with fishing rods, nets, and storage for the catch. Sailboats use sails to harness the wind, making them perfect for leisure and competition.

Here’s a quick look at some boat types for different activities:

• Sailboats: Use wind for movement; used for racing or leisure
• Fishing boats: Equipped to catch and store fish
• Whaleboats: Designed for hunting whales

Each type of boat has unique features tailored to its specific function, influenced by local needs and traditions.

Boating Know-How

Knowing the parts of a boat and the terminology used in boating is essential for safe and effective operation. This guide will help you get familiar with key nautical terms.

Language of the Seas: Nautical Terminology

When you start boating, you need to learn the language of the seas. Nautical terminology helps everyone on board communicate clearly and avoid confusion.

• Bow : The front part of the boat.
• Stern : The back part of the boat.
• Port : The left side of the boat when facing forward.
• Starboard : The right side of the boat when facing forward.

Knowing these terms can help a boater direct the crew more effectively. If someone yells, “Man overboard, port side!” you need to know instantly where to look.

Also, understanding basic sailing terms like tacking and jibing is important.

In addition, a boating license often requires passing a test that includes these terms. So, mastering them isn’t just about being safe—it’s also about being legally compliant.

Study these terms thoroughly before hitting the water. They’ll make your boating experience smoother and safer.

Frequently Asked Questions

What do you call the front section of a boat.

The front of a boat is called the bow. It’s the part that cuts through the water first as you sail. Simple, right?

Can you list the main structural components of a boat?

Sure! Boats have several main parts:

• Hull : The body of the boat
• Deck : The flat surface on top of the hull
• Engine : Powers the boat
• Sails : Used on sailboats to catch the wind

What’s the term for the back end of a boat?

The stern is the back end of a boat . It often influences the boat’s stability and handling.

What are the different sides of a boat known as?

There are specific terms for the sides of a boat:

• Port : The left side when you’re facing forward
• Starboard : The right side when you’re facing forward

Could you name some parts unique to a fishing boat?

Fishing boats have unique parts, such as:

• Livewell : A tank for keeping fish alive
• Rod holders : For securing fishing rods
• Outriggers : Extendable poles for trolling

What common features are found on a yacht?

Yachts often come with luxurious features:

• Cabin : Enclosed space for sleeping and living
• Galley : Boat’s kitchen
• Flybridge : An upper deck with a steering station

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David Ciccarelli, is the Founder and CEO of Lake. He is based in Toronto, Canada, and is an expert in management, business administration, strategy, product development, and customer experience. His educational achievements include the Owner President Management Program at Harvard Business School (2019-2022) and the QuantumShift Program at Ivey Business School in 2017, aimed at CEOs of growing businesses.

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