optimist sailboat rigging

Rigging & Tuning Guides

A clear, basic rigging guide from Winner, the Danish Optimist boat builder.

A simple tuning guide from North Sails. 

A more detailed guide from J sails on how to rig an Optimist mainsail from scratch.

And here's a great video from two Optimist sailors explaining how to get the most out of your set up.

Fernhurst Books publish two excellent books for Optimist sailors, an introductory Sailing for Kids and a more advanced book for those starting  Optimist Racing.   While the comprehensive RYA Optimist Handbook is now only available as an e-book, hard copies do come up for sale on line, from time to time. All three books give advice and tips on rigging and tuning your Optimist.

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Optimist Essentials:

The Optimist is the most popular sailboat for sailors under 16 years old and has become the world standard for introductory junior sailors. It is a one design class open to be built by different manufacturers. Governed by strict class rules, all authentic Optimist dinghies or IOD95s, are nearly identical. Optimists are raced at club, regional, national and world levels. The skills an Optimist fosters are directly applied to other classes. The Optimist features ease in launching, rigging and transport. It has three floatation bags that guarantee a buoyant self-rescuing boat. Shop new Optimist sailboats .

It is recommended that each Opti sailor have:

• Three properly inflated airbags
• A mast security clamp
• A sail without unrepaired rips or tears, and with two unbroken battens
• A set of hiking straps affixed property to the boat
• All required sail ties
• All required rigging in the proper length without any knots
• Two uncracked bailers

Informational Videos:

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Rigging instructions – Check our videos!

Find the Optiparts knot instruction videos on our Youtube channel and below. When rigging your Optimist it’s important to know how to tie a knot. Most common used knots on an Optimist and other dinghies are the bowline, figure-eight and reef knot. You also need to know these knots when setting up your Optiparts Standard Optimist Rig . Check our manual for installation step by step .

What you can read next

Season Preparations – Get yourself ready!

Schools and Clubs – Sailing Tips!

Optimist Racing Spars – What do I need?

Stay tuned.

How to Tie an Optimist Sail – Best Techniques

If you want to maximize performance and minimize frustration, it pays to learn the best techniques to tie an Optimist sail. We pulled tips from manufacturer’s tuning guides, books, and online sources to make the process easier. We added performance and rules notes to highlight the critical steps.  

When we tie an Optimist sail, we’re trying to accomplish several objectives.

• Stay within class rules
• Tweak the sail shape for the existing wind conditions and the sailor’s weight and ability
• Make sure the sail ties don’t loosen on the water

The steps in this article assume you are tying the sail for the first time, and that you may want to de-rig and re-rig the sail periodically for travel.

Preparation

Make sure you have sail ties made of Vectran or Dyneema. These may be included with your boat or your new sail. It’s essential to have extra sail ties available. Here’s a table of what you need and sources.

You can get pre-cut sail tie kits from Colie Sails . You can also buy small spools of 1.2 mm and 3 mm Vectran from West Coast Sailing .

Tie the Foot of the Sail to the Boom

You can start by tying the sail to the boom before you attach the boom to the mast. Tie at the clew, along the foot, and at the tack, using these steps.

Performance note: Since the outhaul takes care of adjusting the foot of the sail, you don’t need to adjust the boom ties for different wind conditions. Therefore, you can tie the the foot of the sail to the boom once and leave it for the season.

Tie the clew

The clew is the aft end of the sail. There are two lines to attach: the outhaul and the clew tie. Do the outhaul first.

• Tie a figure eight knot in the end of the outhaul line and thread it through the boom end fitting.
• Pass the line through the clew grommet and then back again through the boom end fitting.
• Cleat the other end of the outhaul line loosely in the boom cleat.
• Thread a corner tie (3mm) through the clew grommet and around the boom, wrapping it twice around.
• Tie a square knot in the free ends so that the sail just touches the top of the boom, but does not overlap.
• Set the square knot by pulling both ends tightly and pulling up on the clew. Make sure there is no gap between the sail and the boom. Re-adjust if needed.
• Make sure the clew is not too tight so that it is free to slide along the top of the boom as you pull the outhaul line.
• Performance note: If the clew lifts off the boom, this loosens the leech of the sail, which reduces the ability to point.

Tie the foot

• Use 1.2 mm ties to tie the foot of the sail to the boom.
• Double wrap the ties through the grommets and around the boom. Double wraps make the gap between sail and boom easier to adjust.
• Performance note: The Opti sail is cut in a curve along the foot. This gives it a pocket when it is tied to the straight boom. The pocket produces lift as the air flows over it. The 5 mm gap lets the sail pocket flip from one side to the other.
• Rules note: The maximum gap allowed between the boom and sail is 10 mm.
• Set the square knots by pulling tightly on both ends and pulling up on the sail.
• For additional security, add a half hitch to one end of each square knot.

Tie the tack

The tack is the forward end of the foot. Attach it to the boom now and then also to the mast when you tie the luff of the sail to the mast.

• Use a 3 mm tie and double wrap it through the tack grommet and the boom as before.
• Adjust the square knot so the foot of the sail just touches the top of the boom at the tack.
• Set the knot.

Tie the Luff of the Sail to the Mast

The mast ties are not “set and forget.” Serious racers adjust the gaps between luff and the mast based on wind conditions. Therefore, it will pay dividends to develop your technique.

The steps below assume you have tied the sail to the boom and are now tying to the mast without pre-existing ties.

Attach boom to mast

• Thread the bottom of the mast through the loop of the boom preventer line and lay it alongside the rolled out sail.
• Make sure the boom preventer button on the mast faces away from the sail.
• Clip the boom fork onto the mast, below the preventer button

Tie the head of the sail

Tie the head first to set the sail measurement line within the bands on the mast.

• Align the grommet at the head of the sail with the top hole in the mast. This alignment puts the sail measurement line within the bands.
• Use a 3 mm corner tie and double wrap it.
• Press one or both strands of the corner tie into the hole on the forward side of the mast and insert the wind vane into the loop.
• Set the gap between the sail and mast according to the table below and tie a square knot.
• Set the square knot by pulling it tight and pulling on the sail.
• Add a half hitch to one end of the square knot for additional security.
• Tie the tack to the mast using a double-wrapped 3 mm corner tie.
• Adjust the gap according to the table below.
• Set the square knot.

Check the boom preventer

The boom preventer is a line on the boom that prevents the boom from sliding too far down on the mast. This regulates the tension in the luff of the sail. At this point, you want to check the length of the preventer line. Once this length is set, you won’t have to re-adjust it.

Rules note: The sail measurement line must be between the bands when sailing.

• Place the boom preventer line over the mast button without any twists.
• Check that when you push the boom down, the sail measurement line does not go below the lower band on the mast. If needed, shorten the boom preventer line to assure this.

Tie the halyard preventer

The halyard preventer keeps the sail from being pulled up too far when the sprit is tensioned. You can likely set this once and re-use it even after de-rigging.

• Use a 3 mm corner tie and single wrap it through the grommet and around the mast.
• Press the tie through the second hole on the mast to make a loop.
• Insert the wind vane into the loop.
• Tie a square knot so that the sail band stays below the top measurement band when the sprit is tensioned. Don’t over-tighten the halyard preventer line.
• Set the knot and add a half hitch for additional security if needed.

Tie the luff

Performance note: Like the foot, the luff of the sail is curved to add depth to the sail. On an Opti, you can regulate this depth by adjusting the gaps between the luff and the mast. The diagram below shows how this works and the typical gap measurements to power up or de-power the sail.

• Use 1.2 mm ties along the luff
• Double wrap the ties through the grommets and around the boom.
• Deeper sail, more power: In lighter winds, make the gaps equal (about 1 mm).
• Flatter sail, less power: In heavier winds, or with lighter or less experienced sailors, make the gaps at the top and bottom of the mast larger (perhaps 8 mm) and reduce the gaps gradually to 1 mm as you approach the center.
• Rules note: The maximum gap allowed between the mast and sail is 10 mm.

For travel or storage. it’s best to remove the sail from the mast and roll it up around the boom.

• Remove the wind vane to free up the head tie and halyard preventer.
• Untie the line from the tack to the mast
• Take the vang out of the cleat
• Unclip the boom fork from the mast
• Slide the mast down towards the foot, leaving the sail ties on the sail.
• Roll the sail on the boom, minimizing creases.

Optimist Sailmakers and Manufacturers Tuning Guides Optimist Class Rules Link

Related Posts

Optimist Sailmakers and Manufacturers Tuning Guides

Optimist Mast Rake and Downwind Heel – Balance Your Helm

Opti Pre-Race Checklist – Updated to 2018 Rules

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• Club Finder

Optimist Rigging Guide

Go To: Sailing - Rigging Guides

Posted on 25 October 2009 17:14

The optimist is sailed by over 160,000 sailors in over 100 countries, and is the only internationally endorsed dinghy for juniors, and is probably the most popular racing dinghy in the world for juniors.

Originally designed in 1947, the design didn't get standardised until 1960, so before that time there were many variations on the design. The design was converted to one-design in 1995, so all Optimists produced now are all produced to the same specification.

There are several manufacturers, including Laser and Hartley Laminates. You'll find many variations built over the years, from wood, to GRP and foam. Most training centres use the foam boats, whereas racers use wooden ones (as they are lighter) or GRP.

They are excellent for kids to learn to sail in, as they are a centre main boat, and kids can easily transfer into a race rigged Topper or a Laser when they are older and too big to fit in the optimist anymore. Optimists are a gaff rigged boat, so slightly different to the other rigging guides we've done so far, but they are still simple and easy to rig, so let's get started.

What You Need

Hull Mast + sprite Boom Daggerboard Rudder Mainsheet (10mm x 5 metre) Sail Downhaul (3mm x 0.5 metre) Kicker (4mm x 1 metre) Outhaul (4mm x 0.5 metre depending on boom) Uphaul/Halyard (3mm x 2 metre)

Photo 1, The oppi hull

Photo 2, The thwarte

Photo 3, The cockpit

As always, remember if you are buying a boat that it may not always come as class legal - we are kindly borrowing these boats from a sailing school and they may not fall to form on class regulations. If in doubt - get a copy of the Optimist Class Rules and measure for yourself. If in doubt on any items, contact us !

Photo 4, Rudder pintles

Photo 5, Boat parts

Photo 6, Putting the sail on

Lets Get Started

First of all, as you can see we have laid out all of the parts, to show what they are (Photo 5), and to make sure we have everything we need. We'll start with the sail - take the mast, and feed it up inside the luff sleeve of the sail (Photo 6), all the way to the top. The pulley block half way up the mast should fit outside of the gap in the sleeve as shown (Photo 8). Feed the mast all the way up until it reaches the strap inside the top of the sleeve (Photo 9).

Photo 7, Pull the sail down the mast

Photo 8, The gap in the mast sleeve

Photo 9, The top of the mast sleeve

Next, attach the boom to the mast with it's large clip fitting (Photo 10). Tie the sail down to the boom with the downhaul (Photo 11) - the one on this boat is just a length of string, which is tied around the boom with a reef or granny knot. Different boats will have different arrangements, and a racing oppi would have an adjustable downhaul. This is just a training boat however!

Photo 10, Fix the gooseneck

Photo 11, Attach the downhaul

Photo 12, Attach the outhaul

To attach the outhaul on this boat, first we feed the line through the hole in the end of the boom (Photo 12). Secure this line with a bowline, or any other suitable knot (Photo 13). Feed the working end through the clew in the back bottom corner of the sail (Photo 14), then back through the loop of the bowline, then secure it with a round turn and two half hitches (Photo 15). Again in a racing oppi, this would be adjustable, but as this is a training boat that kids learn in, you need to keep it simple!

Photo 13, Attach the outhaul

Photo 14, Attach the outhaul

Photo 15, Attach the outhaul

Next, we need to attach the rest of the rig (the sprite). Attach it to the loose top corner of the sail, as shown in Photo 16, then pass the outhaul (yellow and white rope, Photo 17) around the pulley block on the mast, and attach the end of the uphaul to the other end of the sprite (Photo 18). Pull on the uphaul to raise the sprite, and take it through the jammer block on the front of the mast (Photo 19), and jam it off.

Photo 16, Attach the sail to the sprit

Photo 17, Attach the uphaul

Photo 18, Pull up the sprit

Photo 19, Cleat off the uphaul

Photo 20, Raise and step the mast

Photo 21, Tie on the uphaul

Next, raise the mast - pretty simple on this boat, lift it up and drop it through the hole in the wooden beam/deck, making sure it drops into the cup socket below (Photo 20), or it could damage the deck. For security, now take the uphaul line, pass it through the hole in the wood in front of the mast (Photo 21), take it around a few times, and tie it off (Photo 22). This will stop the mast coming out if the boat capsizes.

Photo 22, Tie on the uphaul

Photo 23, Attach the kicking strap

Photo 24, Fix the kicking strap

Next, attach the kicker. Start it off with a bowline from the fairlead on the underside of the boom near the front end (Photo 23), then pass it through the cleat on the back of the mast (Photo 24). This is only a single ratio kicker - you can get multi-purchase ones. Again as this is a training boat, it's kept simple - the kicker line is then fed around the wooden crossbeam and tied off, again as a security measure (Photo 25).

Photo 25, Secure the kicking strap

Photo 26, The sail downhaul

Photo 27, The complete mast setup

The downhaul for the sail is next - on this sail, it's just a line from the bottom of the sail luff pocket, then tied to the fairlead on the mast as shown (Photo 26). The mast setup is now complete (Photo 27)

The last line to attach is the mainsheet. There are different arrangements of mainsheets, including multi-purchase systems. This one is started by tying a stopper or figure eight knot in the end of the line, and passing it into the fairlead on the boom which has the block attached (Photo 28). Next, it's fed into the foremost block in the cockpit, from front to back (Photo 29).

Photo 28, Attach the mainsheet

Photo 29, Feed the mainsheet through

Photo 30, Feed the mainsheet through

Next, it's fed back up to the block on the boom, and passed from front to back (Photo 30). We used the lower pulley of the block and haven't used the top one, as we said, it could be rigged different ways. Next, the line is fed down to the backmost block in the cockpit, going from front to back again (Photo 31). Push the sail out as far as it should go, and tie a stopper knot in the line to stop the sail going out too far (Photo 32).

Photo 31, Feed the mainsheet through

Photo 32, Feed the mainsheet through

Photo 33, The completed mainsheet

Finally, attach the rudder by dropping it on to it's pintles (Photo 34), as long as it's not a fixed rudder like ours - we struggled here as it's a non-swinging rudder and we had the boat on the ground. Then, drop in the daggerboard, and pull the elastic loop around it to sit in front - this will help hold the daggerboard in place depending how high you adjust it (Photo 35).

Photo 34, Attach the rudder

Photo 35, Insert the daggerboard

Photo 36, The completed boat

The boat setup is now complete (Photo 36). You're ready to go - now get learning to sail!

On a sidenote, an oppi sail is not so large that you need to completely dismantle it to put it away or take it home. The easy way to store an oppi sail and rig so it's quicker to rig next time, is to lay it out as shown on the floor (Photo 37), with the sail, mast and boom still together, but the sprite taken off. Next, move the boom up alongside the mast, and fold the sail neatly (Photo 38).

Photo 37, Layout the sail, sprit and boom

Photo 38, Fold in the sail

Photo 39, Fold in the sail

Pull the top corner of the sail down (Photo 39), and start rolling the spars inside the sail (Photo 40). When it's all rolled up, use the mainsheet to tie up the bundle neatly (Photos 41 and 42). This will now easily fit in most cars for the trip home.

Photo 40, Roll the sail

Photo 41, Wrap the mainsheet around

Photo 42, The completed spar and sail package

Fig 1. Get all the gear ready

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OPTIMIST DINGHY SPEED GUIDE

North Sails class leaders Zeke Horowitz and Juan Carlos Romero answer your International Optimist Dinghy speed and boathandling questions.

Who sails an Optimist Dinghy?

The pram-style Optimist is a great starter boat for learning to sail and later learning to race, and youth sailors can literally take their Optimist Dinghy to whatever level they want. Any motivated young Optimist sailor will develop both confidence and dinghy sailing skills, from boathandling techniques to big-fleet strategy and tactics; some will go on to race at the highest levels. The sailors who do best in the class are those who spend the most time sailing their boats, usually with a good coach, strong sailing program, and ample resources. The International Optimist Dinghy Association is the biggest one-design class in the world.

Top young Optimist sailors line up on the starting line at a clinic held on Miami's Biscayne Bay.

Who is the ideal Optimist sailor physically?

Sailors should be fit and agile, able to move gracefully and hike out for extended periods. Those who do best are usually 12 to 14 years old and weigh up to 110 pounds. Regionally, top sailors can still compete at 115 or even 120 pounds. Girls sail equally with boys, and it’s common to see three or four girls in the top 10 at any regatta.

What are three top Optimist speed tips?

• Find a good coach and team.
• Focus hard while you’re on the water.
• Do well in school so you can miss days while off sailing.

What should buyers know when choosing an Optimist Dinghy?

Any sailor’s first boat is typically a used boat, to allow for collisions due to inexperience with dock landings and being in close quarters with other boats. Competitive sailors will normally move up to new boats as they reach higher levels. Older boats can remain competitive, but heavy travel and racing schedules put a fair amount of wear and tear on the boats. As a result, used boats may need gelcoat dings and scratches repaired. A fully outfitted new boat may run $5,500, while a good used boat costs 30 to 40 percent less. Keep in mind that you can purchase different sizes of boom section with different stiffness, although most sailors stick with a mid-range version. As a sailor grows, a stiffer boom may be preferred. If your mast is extremely bendy, it may also help to replace it with a stiffer one as experience and size merit.

How do you move an Optimist Dinghy around?

An Optimist weighs only 35 kilograms (77 pounds), which makes it easy to put on top of a car. There are also many trailering options; some teams own trailers that carry up to 18 boats, plus a coach boat!

How long does it take to rig an Optimist Dinghy?

Rigging time depends on how focused the sailor is on the task, but it’s not hard to have a boat ready in 40 minutes. What’s most time-consuming is attaching the sail to the spars, which in the Optimist requires tying knots in a way that’s carefully prescribed by the rules (see the North Sails Optimist Tuning Guide ). The goal is to match the luff curve with how much the mast will bend in a given condition, which varies depending on a sailor’s weight.

How many sails are allowed?

Top sailors will take two sails to a regatta, but just one sail is allowed for the duration of the event; the other is a backup in case of a breakdown. There is some nuance to selecting Optimist sails, but North presents a good choice of radial or crosscut sails of different size depending on the sailor’s weight. Read more about what North offers , from a crossover sail for beginners, to two crosscut and four radial-cut racing sails.

International Optimist Dinghy Tuning

What are the keys to rig set-up.

Properly eased outhaul tension shows wrinkles at each sail tie giving ample power to the lower part of the sail.

What control systems are unique to the Optimist?

A modest wrinkle from the top of the mast extending toward the end of the boom indicates correct sprit tension.

Optimist Dinghy Upwind Sailing

How do you trim the sail upwind in light air.

Shown sailing in a clinic (without sail numbers), these Optimist Dinghies show off the design’s distinct profile with sprit rig and squared off bow and stern.

When sailing in medium winds, how should the sail be trimmed upwind?

Move the mast rake back to your base setting when you move to the rail, and in choppy conditions, pull the outhaul tight enough so the vertical creases at the boom sail ties extend only up to the first seam. Smooth out the wrinkles in the luff by removing one twist in your boom preventer, so you achieve a round, deep nice shape for the entry. You want moderate luff tension, but you don’t want it tight. Trim the sprit so the sail is very smooth, and trim the mainsheet so the boom is right over the corner or just inside the corner of the transom.

In hiking mode or heavy air upwind, how do you trim the sail?

When hiking, rake the mast a bit forward from your base setting to compensate for how the mast will bend. Have your outhaul tight enough that a crease shows in the foot, until you fill the sail with wind. Take another twist off the boom preventer to get good tension on the luff. Sprit pole tension should still be tight and the sail, smooth. When trimming, ease the boom to the corner of the boat and sometimes just outside the corner.

When the Optimist is sailing upwind, overpowered, how should the sail be trimmed?

Demonstrating good upwind sail trim, this Optimist sailor is flying her leech telltales and has the boom trimmed at or near the transom corner.

What are the key gear changes in an Optimist when sailing upwind?

The Optimist sailor’s focus when sailing upwind is primarily on body movement, mainsheet trim, and steering the boat. None of the sail controls are adjusted. When there are choppy conditions or a big wave, bear off and ease the sail to stay powered up. In a flat spot, trim harder to improve your pointing. Because the Optimist is a hard-chine boat, keeping the boat flat is critical—the boat makes leeway and the rudder works like a brake when you allow heel.

What else is important upwind?

One important technique to learn is “sailing and bailing.” Two buckets are attached to the boat with bungee cords, and the technique is to scoot aft and squeeze the bailer bucket between your front leg and the bulkhead, rocking the boat to windward to fill the bailer by feathering the boat up and hiking at the right time. Move your mainsheet and tiller extension to the same hand and use your free hand to toss the water in the bailer overboard. Don't forget that a full bailer of water weighs 8 pounds, which is quite a bit of weight working against you when it’s sloshing around the floor of your boat.

Optimist Dinghy Downwind Sailing

Where do you sit when sailing the optimist downwind.

Heading downwind, you always sit on the rail, heeling a little to windward to lift the leeward chine out of the water and to tilt the sail a little higher. In light air and until you’re surfing, stay forward, with your shins against the bulkhead. Effectively, you’re staying in the middle of the boat. In surf and big waves, move aft quite a bit to avoid submarining the bow under a wave and then move forward again. The amount of fore-and-aft body movement is greater in an Optimist than in some other singlehanders because the bow is blunt, so in waves you need to work hard to keep it above water.

How do you trim downwind?

This sailor’s downwind trim shows slight windward heel, mainsheet eased to 90 degrees, and daggerboard fully raised.

How much pumping of the main is fast downwind?

Pumping the main is fast any time there’s good wind and waves. Top sailors grab the sheet at the ratchet block and pump it by extending their hand up over their heads. You are allowed one pump per wave, and at major regattas there are on-water judges keeping count.

How do you shift gears when sailing an Optimist downwind?

Think about how far in or out you have the boom, and think about how much you should be moving fore and aft. In max light air, the daggerboard is up, the boom is out past 90 degrees, and you’re focused on keeping the boat as quiet and at as steady an angle of heel as possible. In 20 knots, it’s completely different—the board is only two-thirds of the way up, you are pumping on every wave, and you are moving all over the place.

Optimist Dinghy Boathandling

What are the keys to starting well in an optimist.

It’s important to get into the front row and hold your position on the line in advance of the start. It’s also key not to get flagged for sculling with your rudder. This takes practice, always keeping the boat moving but at the slowest speed possible. You want just enough flow across the leech of your main to hold your spot. The boats tack quickly, so we recommend that you learn to do a quick double-tack; sometimes when there’s space to windward, you can tack twice and gain valuable room on your lee side for acceleration.

What are the keys to tacking an Optimist well?

Steering from behind your back, move what was your forward, mainsheet hand aft to hold the tiller extension as well, then bring your other hand around and take the mainsheet. In all conditions, over-trim the mainsheet when you start your tack until head to wind so you maintain flow on your sail, then ease it through rest of the process and finally trim the sheet afterwards, usually after the boat has been flattened. In medium air, you make the same move, but it happens faster and you’re moving from rail to rail. The main trim is the same. When it’s windy, you hardly roll the boat and simply move quickly across, grabbing the rail with one hand to get there. Ease the main during the tack once you pass head to wind and then trim when fully hiked.

What are the worst mistakes in tacking an Optimist?

Over-rolling the boat and filling it with water is easily the worst mistake. In light air, be sure not to use too much rudder. That’s slow, and so is not getting enough roll. We have one word to describe finding the right amount of roll for each condition—practice!

What are the keys to jibing an Optimist well?

In light air, keep it smooth. Have the boat rocked to weather already, then just lean in and grab the parts of the mainsheet, lean out, and pull the sail over. Stand up and walk across the boat to avoid a big splash, then transition to heel the boat again to windward. In medium winds, your roll jibe is the same but involves a quick hop across the boat (as you would in a tack). In heavy air, the jibe is different. Your main goal is “Don’t flip over.” Try to pull the boom across while surfing a big wave because your sail will be less loaded and you’ll be more in control; however, you’ll often find the boom still has enough load on it to require a strong pull. A common mistake is to get stuck—you’ve turned the boat part way, but the main is too loaded to come across. When you are ready to jibe, jibe with confidence by making a decisive turn at the same time that you pull the main over. As the sail comes over, cross the boat quickly to the rail and steer back to leeward on the new jibe. Make sure the main doesn’t get eased beyond 90 degrees as you jibe, or you’ll surely flip.

Do you have any other suggestions for jibing in heavy air?

The chicken jibe (also known as “tacking”) is popular when it’s blowing. If you’re a less-experienced heavy-air sailor and not sailing in the top 20, this is a great way to be sure you’ll stay in the race.

Can you recover on your own from capsizing an Optimist?

An Optimist sailor can “self-rescue” because the boat has three air bags. Make sure they are fully inflated so less water gets in the boat. If you flip, right the boat from the windward side and spend at least one minute standing in the boat and bailing hard with both bailers, which are attached to the boat with bungee cords. At that point you can start sailing and bail out the rest as you go.

What boathandling drills do you recommend?

The board is down and the main is powered up for the turn at the leeward mark. A bit of leeward heel would reduce the amount of rudder required.

What are the most common Optimist boathandling mistakes?

Let’s start with not capsizing. It takes practice to learn where the edge is in heavy air. Other mistakes we see include using too much rudder instead of doing smooth roll tacks and roll jibes. This applies to sailing in a straight line, too. For example, avoid using too much rudder downwind. If you start heeling to weather too much, the boat wants to head down. Instead of pushing the tiller to compensate, shift your body weight to leeward and trim the main.

What’s the coolest thing about the International Optimist Dinghy class?

The Opti class is by far the largest and most dynamic one-design class, in part because it has the most variables on the planet. Parents, coaches, and thousand of young sailors, growing up through a super-sensitive time of their lives. The basic strategies and tactics the class requires are a great outlet and an excellent way to learn the values of discipline and conservative decision-making. Whether you travel and learn about getting through airports and how to make friends in other countries, or you simply learn to take care of your own boat and sail on your own, Optimist sailing is a chance for you to learn a whole lot about yourself in a supportive, fun, rewarding environment. The Optimist is sailed all over the world and has a half dozen continental championships. After sailors age out, some go on to contend for Laser Radial and 4.7 world titles, and many become leading competitors in doublehanded classes such as the 420 and 29er. A final testament to the class: the great majority of skippers at the 2016 Olympics got their start in the Optimist class.

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West Coast Sailing is your source for Optimist Sailboat Parts and Accessories . We offer a full range of Optimist sailboat racing sails, spar sets, blades, tillers, covers, accessories, and more. Find go fast upgrades for racers or durable parts for recreational and club sailors. Fast, free shipping on qualifying orders.

• Opti Sailboat Photo Gallery - Detailed photos of rigging and setup, including different upgrades.
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• Opti Owners Manual - Rigging Guide and Owner's Manual from McLaughlin, an Optimist builder.
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• Opti Spar Guide - Understanding Club, Silver, and BlackGold Spars.

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Optiparts Optimist Practice Sail

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Opti Hiking Bench (Dynamic)

Optimax MK3 Medium Racing Mast Optimist

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Optimax mk3 racing mast optimist.

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Optimist Buying Guide

By tom coleman.

The Optimist; at first glance a simple little kids boat…right? The  more you get to know this “simple” little kids’ boat, the more you realize it’s not so simple. But little Jimmy starts sailing class in a month and you’re told to provide a fully rigged Optimist for his use. Where do you start? What do you really need and what’s it all gonna cost? Tom “Optiguytom” Coleman, long associated with junior sailing, is considered internationally as an Optimist guru, especially when it comes to getting kids started in racing. In this article he helps parents get started into the world of the Optimist, unraveling the mysteries of understanding, choosing and purchasing an Optimist sailboat.

Optimist Basics

The Opti, or Optimist Dinghy, is relatively unchanged from the first prams designed and built by visionary Clark Mills in Clearwater, FL, 65 years ago. Testament to Mills’ genius, the Opti remains the largest and fastest growing sailboat class in the world, a phenomenon as THE definitive teaching boat for hundreds of thousands of children the world over.

The Opti is not for everyone. It was designed for children. Optis are sailed by kids as young as five* years old and can be officially raced by kids up to age fifteen. Although it’s possible for a parent to sail an Optimist alone or with a small child, realistically adult sized sailors just don’t fit well. That’s part of the magic behind why they work so perfectly for kids.

Mills originally designed the Opti to be garage-built out of $50 worth of materials… hence the “one sheet of plywood” nearly 4’x8’ size. Little did Clark know that one day two Optis could easily slide into the back of a Suburban or mini-van, or that Mom and a teen could lift it onto the car top, or that the spars (mast, boom, and sprit) could be shipped UPS or flown as baggage.

Why Buy Them Their Own Boat?

Many learn-to-sail programs provide Optis for participants, but some have gotten so popular that you will need to supply your own boat. Check with the program and solicit their recommendation on procuring a suitable Optimist. As a rule, Optis hold their value extremely well, making the overall investment quite reasonable. While a brand new, ready to race Optimist will start at less than $3,000, completely rigged Optis suitable for beginners can be had for less than $1,000. Another reason to buy your child their own Opti is the pride of ownership that comes from taking care of their own vessel. It’s a great way to build responsibility and help get them invested in this life-long activity.

What Will They Need to Start?

When we say Optimist, or Opti, we are talking about a complete, ready to sail package. Although there are many possible accessories and upgrades, this is what your child must have:

Hull  – it’s the shell or body of the boat, the vessel itself. The vast majority are built of fiberglass. It includes the deck which runs around the top edge and is for sitting on, not standing. The hull also includes the mast thwart, daggerboard trunk and midship frame. These are all permanently attached during manufacture. Every hull has important parts attached mechanically (with screws), or secured by other means. These include hiking straps, ratchet block, dagger board bungee, three flotation bags, mainsheet, mast step (should be adjustable), and bow line.

Blades  – sometimes called foils. They are the rudder (with tiller and extension) and the daggerboard.

Sail  – usually white, made of Dacron.

Rig  – often called spar set; these are the mast, boom, and sprit; the poles that support the sail. The rig includes the lines (ropes) and blocks (pulleys) that control the sail.

Accessories

Bailers  – need two in the boat at all times, flimsy plastic bottles don’t work and are NOT safe.

Blade Bag  – protects and stores the daggerboard and rudder, makes for easier carrying.

Life jacket  – must be USCG Approved and appropriate size.

Whistle  – secured to life jacket with a short lanyard.

Bow bumper  – protects not only your investment but those of others.

Dolly  – for dockside transport, launching, sometimes storage. Some programs require them.

Covers  – depending on how boat will be stored a top or bottom cover may be a good investment.

Praddle  – one handed paddle. Regular canoe or telescopic paddles DO NOT WORK!

New, Used, Chartered?

New complete Opti packages start at around $2700 while used Optis range from $500 on up depending on age, condition, and accessories. A third option is called a “chartered” or “event” Optimist. Think of these as demos, typically used at a few regattas by good sailors. Often these come with brand new spars and sail, carry new boat warranties, and sell for $200 – 300 below retail.

Club, Intermediate, Advanced, Premium Racer?

Those are names of various Opti packages differentiated by the equipment each comes with. Beginning sailors should be most interested in the “Club” or “Club Racer” version. Besides being the most economical, it’s designed for their level; a little heavier duty with less parts to loose or break. The Intermediate will have some upgrades mainly of interest to racing. The Advanced (read more expensive), are aimed at delivering a product suited exclusively toward competitive sailing and bear no advantage to those starting out. It’s important to know that the hull is really the same in each package and can be upgraded as the sailor progresses with the purchase of different spars, blades, and sails.

Where to Buy

Local Sailing Programs

Check the bulletin boards at local yacht clubs and community sailing centers and you’re likely to find at least a couple of formerly sailed Optis available. Ask around, during weekend and after school Opti classes (yes, most have already started), and you may uncover some unadvertised bargains.

Friendly Neighborhood Dealer

Shopping new or used Optis at your local dealership is perhaps the easiest way to obtain the right boat for your child. Typical small boat sales staff, as a rule, are local sailors and have insight on the surrounding programs and what each expects. You’ll find them to be very knowledgeable, highly enthusiastic, but not pushy.

The best deals can be found at the many spring open houses, boat swaps, or Opti auctions. You’ll be able to compare $600 fixer-uppers and $1,000 bargains (privately owned, taken in on commission) to used, chartered and brand new Optis, all at one location. The dealer can fix you up with necessary accessories, including roof racks to transport the newest addition to your family.

Online shopping can produce some real bargains, but has its limitations. eBay and Craig’s List occasionally have listings, but the drawback of buying sight unseen or traveling a long distance to see only one boat may not prove prudent. A recent search produced only one Opti on ebay and five scattered from New Jersey to Rhode Island.

JSALIS.org has a page of used Optis and equipment for sale as does the Opti Class at usoda.org.

Yes, but is it “Class legal”?

Class legal means that the hull, spars, sail and blades (and some accessories) meet certain rigid requirements pertaining to materials, measurements and construction. These requirements keep the Optimist safe for your child while ensuring that every Opti is virtually the same and one doesn’t have a significant advantage over another on the race course. Your Opti may be class legal if it has a sticker with a unique ISAF number or if very old, an IYRU number. The best guarantee is if you have the measurement papers issued by USODA (United States Optimist Dinghy Association) that came with the boat.

…and is it Necessary?

It’s only necessary if those holding the race say it is. Within your program it shouldn’t matter and most green fleet regattas (for beginners) are only concerned that it is safe and a reasonable facsimile. As your child progresses and begins to do more racing (regionally, nationally and even internationally), having a class legal Optimist is an “Opti-must”.

* It’s generally agreed that most kids are not developmentally ready for formal sailing instruction until 8 years of age.

Tom “OPTIGUYTOM” Coleman has been associated with the Optimist Class as a coach and instructor trainer for over a decade. He was Marketing Manager for McLaughlin Boat Works for nearly fifteen years. In 2004 he was chosen by the US Olympic Committee as Developmental Coach of the Year for Sailing. You’ll find him running the Green Fleet at many top Optimist regattas.

You can reach Tom for clinics and regatta coaching at  Optiguytom@yahoo.com .

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Optimist Sailboat Build

Introduction: Optimist Sailboat Build

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The jig produced on the ShopBot retains the correct shape and supports the boat, while it is being built, to retain the exact design measurements.   The plans for the boat can be found from many sources for free on the internet.   Plans are available in many languages, as well.  One such source is http://www.optiworld.org/Woodguide05.pdf Another guide to building an optimist is http://www.burcotboats.co.uk/howToBuild.pdf , as well as half a dozen other well written articles on the internet.   But none provide CAD quality drawings or files to work with modern computer controlled machine tooling.   Well, here they are:  The jig as well as the major parts of the boat.     The jig sides , mast step, rudder, dagger board , dagger board case ends and doubler pieces are made from 18mm or 3/4" ACX or marine grade plywood; (1219.2mm x 2438.4mm) 48" x 96".    

Now to get started, the jig we have designed is the exact dimensions of a finished hull shape.   Both ends of the jig have interlocking pieces to allow for inserting and removing as needed during the building of the boat.   The cross members are standard 2" x 4" cut to 44" long and with a 3/4" dado 8" to each side of center to fit into the grooves of the forms.   These should be cut so as to be flush with the top of the form and screwed into place to prevent movement.   The bottom boards provide a stable platform for the jig to sit on.   The jig should be placed on a flat surface for the build, as distortion to the jig will transfer to the boat being built.    Save the scraps for blocking.

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Sku: mc1 mclaughlin optimist.

• Description

The only Optimist hand built in the United States by experts for over 25 years. McLaughlin has built World Champion hulls for years and have put in the hard work to come out on top. With the stiffest hulls available, minimum weight guaranteed, and best rigging options available, these boats are built to last and consistently perform for years to come.

• Harken 3:1 Mainsheet Block System
• Optiparts Padded Hiking Straps
• Adjustable Mast Step
• 3 x Optiparts Airbags
• 2 x Standard Optiparts Bailers

Available Packages

Mclaughlin optimist club racer.

• Standard McLaughlin Hull
• Optiparts Upgraded Club Spars
• New Rule Epoxy Blade Set
• Dinghy Shop Club Sail with Window

McLaughlin Optimist Intermediate Racer

• Optiparts Quick Silver Spar Set
• Dinghy Shop Sweet Blue Race Sail with Window

McLaughlin Optimist Advanced Racer

• Optiparts Black Gold Racing Spar Set
• Choice of Quantum or Olimpic Race Sail

McLaughlin Optimist ProRacer

• Upgraded ProRacer McLaughlin Hull
• 4:1 Harken Mainsheet System with Double Tapered Mainsheet
• 2 x Optiparts Large Bailers
• Optiparts Mast Clamp
• Extra Padded Adjustable Hiking Straps
• Optiparts Black Gold / Giulietti or Optimax MK3 spars
• McLaughlin N1 PRO Foils
• Quantum or Olimpic Race Sail