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For the first time, rolex is delivering a watch on a rubber strap – except in classic rolex fashion it's not a rubber strap at all. it's a beautifully over-engineered bracelet called the oysterflex..

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There is big news, and there is Rolex big news, and in some ways, ne'er the twain shall meet. At Baselworld this year, Rolex debuted a first for the company: the very first, ever, Rolex delivered on a rubber strap. Now, for most companies this would have little effect on watch enthusiasts other than to evoke (very) tepid interest at best, and boredom at worst – but this is not an ordinary rubber strap, this is an official, designed-and-tested-and-thoroughly-obsessed-over-by-Rolex rubber strap. And thereby hangs a tale.

The Yachtmaster, as we have mentioned in some of our previous coverage , occupies a somewhat particular place in Rolex’s lineup of sports watches; it shares water-resistance and a turning bezel with the Submariner (the latter is water resistant to 300 m while the Yachtmaster standard model is water resistant to 100 m). It is certainly not a tool watch; the Yachtmaster is offered in either platinum and steel, or gold and steel (that’s Rolesium and Rolesor, lest we forget) and is either quietly or unequivocally luxurious depending on what size and metal you go for (Rolex makes the Yachtmaster in both 35 mm and 40 mm sizes). 

The Yachtmaster’s history goes back to the first introduction of the watch in 1992, although the name, interestingly enough, appears on the dial of a prototype Yachtmaster Chronograph from the late 1960s (a watch so legendary I am actually forced to use the word; one of three known is in the collection of Mr. John Goldberger; we covered it – and a host of other remarkable ultra-rare watches from his collection – in a very memorable episode of Talking Watches ).

The term “Yachtmaster” is also, incidentally, used for a certificate of competency in yachting which is issued by the Royal Yachting Association, although we’re unaware of any specific association between the RYA and the Yachtmaster watch.

Now, this newest version of the Yachtmaster does take a few pages from the existing Yachtmaster playbook: 100-meter water resistance, a bidirectional turning bezel, and a dial and hands that echo the Submariner. There are also a couple of features that may make vintage Sub enthusiasts wonder if Rolex mightn’t have an exceedingly subtle sense of humor; the gilt coronet and “Rolex,” and the red lettering, both features which according to HODINKEE founder Ben Clymer would have, had they appeared on a Rolex dive watch, made it instantly the single most popular watch in the modern Rolex inventory. The case is rose gold – Rolex famously makes their own, called Everose, in their own foundry, with a bit of platinum mixed in to prevent discoloration – and the bezel, rather than being some other precious metal (as is the case in the “standard” Yachtmasters) is in black Cerachrom – a very technical-looking matte black that contrasts sharply with the gold case. Somehow, between the rose gold, the Cerachrom bezel, and the new Oysterflex bracelet this manages to be the most luxurious and at the same time most technical Yachtmaster yet (leaving aside the Yachtmaster II, which we recently reviewed right here , but that is a watch that marches to the beat of a different drummer entirely).

The two different versions of the Everose Yachtmaster (40 mm and 37 mm) sport different movements; the larger uses the caliber 3135 and the smaller, the newer 2236, which sports the “Syloxi” silicon balance spring (first used by Rolex in 2014).

The Oysterflex bracelet is, in a nutshell, quite a piece of work. One of the most endearing traits of Rolex as a company is that it tends to demonstrate what we can only describe as a laudable degree of corporate obsessive-compulsive disorder when it comes to research and development, and it does so, often, without making any sort of fanfare about it at all. In this case we do know a little bit about the Oysterflex, however – it is basically designed to have the hypoallergenic and comfort properties of a rubber strap and the durability and shape-retention properties of a bracelet. 

At the core of the Oysterflex bracelet are metal inserts made of titanium and nickel, which are used to affix the bracelet to the clasp and watch case; over those is a sheathing of “high-performance black elastomer.” “Elastomer” is a portmanteau word, formed from “elastic” and “polymer” and is a general term for natural and synthetic rubbers. In addition to the materials complexity of the Oysterflex bracelet, it is also shaped in a rather unusual fashion – there are ridges molded into the the wristward face of the bracelet, which are intended to allow the bracelet when worn to better approximate the natural curvature of the wrist.

They might look a bit odd but in practice, the design works out quite wonderfully; this is easily the most downright comfortable and organic-feeling rubber strap I have ever worn, and like the entire watch manages to be both extremely technical in feel, and very luxurious at the same time; I doubt whether any company has ever taken so much trouble over the design of a strap (for all that Rolex prefers the term “bracelet” in describing the Oysterflex, habit dies hard and you’ll probably find yourself calling it a strap, just as we did). On the wrist, the two stabilizing ridges do exactly what they are supposed to: keep the watch from shifting, as heavier watches on rubber straps are wont to do, without requiring you to have the strap uncomfortably tight. The Everose Oysterlock clasp does a superb job mechanically and also looks fabulous into the bargain; the quality of finish on the clasp and case may not seem terribly elaborate at first, but it is as technically flawless as anything I have ever seen at any price, on any watch.

What we have here, in other words, is a very Rolex interpretation of luxury. Yes, this is a gold watch, and a gold Rolex, and wearing a gold Rolex always carries with it, shall we say, certain semiotic complexities. However there is also another side to the watch, and to the Rolex approach to luxury in general: the taking of such pains to produce technical perfection that technical perfection becomes a luxury in itself.

The Everose Rolex Yachtmaster, in Rolex Everose, with Everose Oysterclasp and Oysterflex bracelet, as shown, $22,000 in 37 mm, and $24,950 in 40 mm. For more info, check out Rolex.com.

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Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Ultimate Buying Guide

In the realm of luxury timepieces, the Rolex Yacht-Master 40 stands as a paragon of elegance fused with practicality. Debuted in the 1990s, this model immediately set a new benchmark in the world of high-end watches. Enclosed in a robust 40mm Oyster case, the Yacht-Master 40 is not just a watch, but a statement of sophistication and versatility. Available in an array of materials – luxurious yellow gold and Everose gold, the classic combination of steel and gold, or sleek steel and platinum. Each variant presents its own allure that caters to the diverse tastes of luxury watch aficionados.

This timepiece surpasses mere functionality. It’s a symbol of a lifestyle, appealing to those who appreciate fine craftsmanship and timeless design. Its sporty yet elegant demeanor makes it equally fitting for a regatta or a high-profile business meeting.

As we explore the rich history and the various models of the Yacht-Master 40, we invite connoisseurs and aspiring collectors alike to explore what makes this Rolex creation not just a watch, but a legacy wrapped around the wrist.

A Brief History of the Rolex Yacht-Master 40

The Rolex Yacht-Master 40 , since its inception in 1992, has charted a course marking key milestones that exemplify Rolex’s commitment to excellence and innovation. The journey began with the release of reference 16628, a model in full gold with a pristine white dial, instantly capturing the essence of luxury sports watch design.

By 1994, Rolex expanded the horizon of the Yacht-Master 40 with a new ref 16628, this time featuring a captivating blue sunray dial. This addition not only diversified the collection but also reinforced the Yacht-Master’s position as a symbol of sophistication and nautical spirit.

The end of the decade, in 1999, saw Rolex introduce the Rolesium model, an ingenious blend of steel and platinum. This model offered a fresh perspective within the luxury watch market with a new blend of materials.

The 2000s were marked by further diversification, with Rolex unveiling two-tone metal versions and introducing mother of pearl dials, adding a new layer of elegance to the collection.

In a significant leap forward, 2012 brought with it a series of enhancements: the introduction of rhodium and blue cobalt dials added depth to the Rolesium model’s monochrome style, while the upgrade to the Easylink extension system and the transition to blue Chromalight lume signaled Rolex’s focus on both aesthetics and functionality.

The year 2015 was a hallmark in the Yacht-Master’s history with the launch of the 116655 model – Rolex’s first foray into crafting a watch entirely from Everose gold and debuting the Oysterflex bracelet, setting a new standard in the luxury watch industry.

In 2016, the introduction of the steel and Everose Yacht-Master 40 ref 116621, and in 2019, the unveiling of new models equipped with the Caliber 3235 automatic movement, underscored Rolex’s unceasing pursuit of horological excellence.

Today, the Rolex Yacht-Master 40 remains a key part of Rolex’s portfolio as the choice watch of individuals with a taste for luxury and passion for the open seas.

<> Most Popular Models of the Rolex Yachtmaster 40

The Rolex Yacht-Master 40 is available in a wide range of metal configurations. Here are the most popular references from the collection.

Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Steel Yellow Gold Slate Dial 16623

The Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Steel Yellow Gold Slate Dial 16623, introduced in 2005, represents a unique blend of Rolex’s commitment to luxury and sportiness. This model is particularly notable for its two-tone Rolesor design as it skillfully combines 904L stainless steel with 18-karat yellow gold. This combination demonstrates a more sports-oriented rendition of Rolex’s classic two-tone style, appealing to enthusiasts who favor the sport watch aesthetic in a more lifestyle-oriented context.

One of the distinct features of the 16623 model is its bidirectional rotating bezel, crafted entirely from 18-karat yellow gold. This choice sets the Yacht-Master 16623 apart from other similar models, especially considering the stainless steel crown, which differs from the usual Rolex design where the crown often mirrors the gold elements.

The dial options, including white, silver, champagne, blue, brown, and mother of pearl, provide a spectrum of styles ranging from understated elegance to more striking appearances. The slate dial, pictured here, offers a sleek look that balances the gold construction of the timepiece.

At the heart of this model is the Rolex Caliber 3135 movement, celebrated for its reliability, precision, and a 48-hour power reserve. This movement is a testament to Rolex’s engineering prowess, offering longevity and consistent performance. The Yacht-Master 16623, with its blend of robust functionality and luxurious design, is a prime example of Rolex’s ability to create watches that are both visually striking and functionally sound, suitable for both nautical adventures and everyday elegance.

<> <>

Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Steel Platinum Rhodium Dial 116622

The Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Steel Platinum Rhodium Dial, Reference 116622, introduced in 2016, is the embodiment of Rolex’s pursuit of excellence in luxury watchmaking. This model is notable for its unique combination of materials and design elements, making it a standout in the Yacht-Master series.

The watch’s 40mm Oyster case and sporty Oyster bracelet are constructed using stainless steel, while its bezel is crafted from 950 platinum. This blend of rugged stainless steel and ultra-precious platinum, known as Rolesium, gives the watch a distinctive monochromatic look but with contrasting textures. The high-polished raised numerals on the bezel set against a sandblasted background, combined with polished center links on the bracelet flanked by brushed-finish outer links, create a visually appealing effect.

The dial of the watch is available in dark rhodium, accented with a turquoise seconds hand and matching YACHT-MASTER text. The dial ensures excellent legibility in low light conditions, thanks to ample lume, and features the signature date window at 3 o’clock, complete with a Cyclops magnification lens on the sapphire crystal.

At the core of this model is the Caliber 3135 movement, a mainstay of Rolex since 1988, known for its reliability and precision. The movement offers a 48-hour power reserve and is backed by the Superlative Chronometer standard. The movement also includes a paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring for improved resistance to magnetic fields and shocks.

Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Steel Everose Gold Chocolate Dial 116621

The Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Steel Everose Gold Chocolate Dial 116621, unveiled in 2016, represents an elegant fusion of luxury and maritime spirit. This model is part of Rolex’s ongoing evolution of the Yacht-Master series, which has consistently introduced new materials and color schemes to diversify its appeal.

The 116621 stands out with its unique ‘Rolesor’ combination, melding stainless steel with Rolex’s exclusive Everose Gold, a proprietary rose gold alloy. This blend lends the watch a distinctive, sophisticated look, further enhanced by its dark brown ‘chocolate’ dial. The use of rose gold and brown is a common theme for Rolex, offering warmth and luxury appeal to the timepiece.

This model maintains the classic Yacht-Master design, including a 40mm case with elegantly rounded lugs and a large, easy-to-read dial. The bezel is crafted from a solid block of Everose gold, featuring large, raised numerals set against a sand-blasted background, which provides a striking contrast and adds to the watch’s elegance.

The Rolex Yacht-Master 116621 is powered by the Calibre 3135 movement, known for its precision and durability. This automatic movement ensures reliable timekeeping and includes the blue Parachrom hairspring for better resistance to magnetic fields and impacts. The watch also benefits from Rolex’s Superlative Chronometer certification, guaranteeing exceptional accuracy.

Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Everose Gold Oysterflex Strap 116655

The Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Ref. 116655, introduced in 2015, marked a significant evolution in Rolex’s Yacht-Master series. This model is particularly notable for being the first Yacht-Master model in solid Everose gold, and the first in the Yacht-Master range to feature the innovative Oysterflex bracelet, Rolex’s unique take on the rubber strap, a departure from their traditional metal bracelets.

The 116655 is also well known for replacing the precious metal bezel with Cerachrom, Rolex’s term for ceramic, used here in matte black to complement the sleek Oysterflex strap. This design choice added a new aesthetic dimension to the Yacht-Master line, offering a sportier and more contemporary look.

The case of the Yacht-Master 116655 is crafted from 18k Everose gold, Rolex’s own blend of gold and copper with a hint of platinum, adding durability and color longevity to the gold’s hue. This combination of Everose gold with the matte black elements of the dial and bezel creates a striking contrast, enhancing the watch’s luxurious yet sporty appeal.

At its core, the watch houses the Caliber 3135 movement, a mainstay of Rolex’s engineering excellence. Known for its reliability and precision, the Caliber 3135 offers a 48-hour power reserve and features a Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring, enhancing the watch’s resistance to magnetic fields and shocks.

Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Everose Gold Pave Diamond Dial 116655

The Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Everose Gold with Pave Diamond Dial, model 116655, introduced in 2018, stands as a luxurious and distinctive addition to the Rolex Yacht-Master collection.

Just like the previous edition, the Everose gold is used in the Oyster case, which measures 40 mm in diameter and is paired with a bidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated bezel with a matte black Cerachrom insert.

The defining feature of this model is its diamond-paved dial, radiating luxury and exclusivity. The dial, complemented by the Chromalight display, enhances readability and adds to the watch’s allure. The Oysterflex bracelet, a fusion of flexible metal blades overmolded with high-performance elastomer, offers comfort, durability, and an elegant look.

Inside, the watch is powered by the self-winding Calibre 3135 movement by Rolex, known for its precision and reliability. The movement boasts features like a Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring which offers greater resistance to shocks and temperature changes.

<> Final Thoughts

Each model of Yacht-Master 40 , from the earliest introductions to the latest innovations, showcases Rolex’s dedication to precision, elegance, and durability. These timepieces are not just mere accessories; they are statements of style and sophistication, reflecting the spirit of nautical adventure melded with luxurious living.

For enthusiasts and collectors looking to dive deeper into the world of Rolex Yacht-Master 40, SwissWatchExpo offers a diverse range of these models. Whether it’s the allure of the diamond-paved dials, the robustness of the Oyster case, or the precision of Rolex’s in-house movements, the Yacht-Master 40 series promises to elevate both your maritime adventures and everyday elegance with unmatched grace and performance.

Explore our selection of Rolex Yacht-Master 40 models, along with thousands of watches from the world’s best brands, at SwissWatchExpo.com .

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Making the case: The Rolex Yacht-Master is the most versatile collection of all their ‘Professional’ models

For most, the day after Christmas is Boxing Day. But, for some professional sailors, December 26 marks the beginning of the  Rolex Sydney Hobart Yacht Race. Organised by the Cruising Yacht Club of Australia, the race, which was first held in 1945, and has been sponsored by Rolex since 2002, consists of yachts ranging from 30 feet (9.14 metres) to 100 feet (30.48 metres), with crews both professional and Corinthian, racing through 628-nautical miles (1,163 kilometres) of open water. It is an absolutely gruelling race in which merely completing it is a massive accomplishment. But, I am no sailor myself. So when I heard about the race, my mind immediately wandered to the Rolex Yacht-Master.

As I sat pondering the collection, I began to think about just how underrated the Yacht-Master is compared to other “Professional” Rolex references like the Submariner, Daytona, and GMT Master II. So today I want to make the case that the Yacht-Master is not only massively underrated, but also the most versatile collection of all the “Professional” models. Normally in the Making The Case  column, we present arguments for and against. But, this time around I will make my case by highlighting five Yacht-Master watches (four currently in production, and one discontinued model that is readily available on the secondary market) that, at least in my mind, show why the argument for my case is quite strong.

Rolex Yacht-Master 42

Previously, the Yacht-Master 42 was only available in stealthy white gold. At Watches & Wonders Geneva 2022, Rolex finally introduced not only a yellow gold Yacht-Master 42, but also the first yellow gold Yacht-Master ever outfitted on an Oysterflex rubber bracelet. Lately many manufactures have been ignoring yellow gold, sticking with rose and white gold only. This is due to the fact that, in some eyes, yellow gold is considered dated. While some say dated, I say classic. It is hard to beat the purity of yellow gold. Ultimately buyers now have the best of both worlds, you can get the Yacht-Master 42 in white gold if you want to fly under the radar or in yellow gold if being a casual “G” is your vibe. Fingers crossed though that a stainless-steel Yacht-Master 42, or even a RLX Titanium version which we have already seen a prototype of, makes its debut in 2023.

Rolex Yacht-Master 37/40 Everose Gold

But Zach, what about rose gold? What if 42mm is too big for my wrist.  Well, you are in luck. Not only is the Yacht-Master available in an Everose case, but also in 37mm and 40mm sizes. The Everose model has yet to make the jump to 42mm, but the 37mm and 40mm configurations are every bit as up to spec as the 42mm. It utilises Rolex’s latest in-house automatic 3235 calibre with 70 hours of power reserve, it is also outfitted on the super comfortable Oysterflex bracelet, it follows the same visual theme with a fully polished case and stealthy matte black ceramic timing bezel, and it has a trip-lock screw-down crown secured Oyster case that is equally pledged with a depth rating of 100 metres – but could likely survive even greater depths. So, within this format you have three precious metal options and three case diameters. And the precious meets casual nature of being outfitted on a rubber bracelet makes the aesthetic, along with its size options, highly versatile.

Rolex Yacht-Master 37/40 Oystersteel and Platinum

But Zach, precious metal is totally out of my budget.  Well, while we wait for an Oysterflex-fitted Yacht-Master to be executed in steel or titanium, you still have Oystersteel and platinum options to work with as well. Available in 37mm and 40mm, on mixed finished oyster bracelets rather than on Oysterflex, the examples above are primarily made of 904L stainless steel. The platinum comes into play with the timing bezel, the insert made entirely of platinum. The gray ruthenium dial offers a really cool monochromatic look, broken ever so slightly by the turquoise Yacht-Master text and central lollipop seconds hand. If you are a New York Giants fan, or just simply prefer a more common blue dial with a pop of red, the configuration on your right is also available to explore. Both also utilise the 3235 movement as well.

Rolex Yacht-Master 42 White Gold Falcon’s Eye

Rolex is known for incremental change, and, for the most part, a sombreness befitting of their reputation for incredibly solid robust performance watches. But, in the modern era, as Rolex has skewed away from utility towards full-blown luxury, the Crown has begun to experiment a bit more. Sure, we have crazy pave dials, ombre dials, and rainbow Daytonas. But, the quietly released Yacht-Master 42 with a “Falcon’s Eye” dial shows just how strong their dial-manufacturing capabilities are. Many jested Rolex stole a page out of Grand Seiko’s playbook, with nature-inspired palm tree-motif dials on the Datejust. But this “Falcon’s Eye” dial is much more apt example of how Rolex can transform natural elements into an astoundingly cool looking dial. So, for those that need something out of the box, the Yacht-Master 42 is capable of such thrills as well.

Rolex Yacht-Master 35 ref. 168622 with platinum dial

While discontinued, older 29mm, 31mm, and 35mm Yacht-Master watches are also available for purchase as well – and for less than the retail pricing of a current 37mm model in Oystersteel and platinum. This means you have five size options on the table. To explore references like the Daytona and Submariner in their discontinued smaller sizes would require a large-budget worthy of bidding against serious collectors at auction houses like Phillips. A particular Yacht-Master favourite of mine is the ref. 168622 with a platinum dial. Yes, you read that right, the entire dial is made of solid frosted platinum. While the case and bracelet may be steel, the bezel and dial are full-platinum – very stealthy precious metal thrills. I also cannot recall another Rolex dial that utilises a frosted finish. Quite neat.

My closing statement

So, with six size options that can be explored, and a wide aesthetic range, the Rolex Yacht-Master offers the most versatility within the pantheon of Rolex “Professional” models. Prove me wrong.

.css-1c7en8u{font-size:clamp(1.375rem, 1.25rem + 0.3125vw, 3.125rem);line-height:1.1;margin-bottom:1rem;} Yacht-Master 40 .css-1g7r01k{font-weight:300;font-size:clamp(0.875rem, 0.9375rem + 0.1563vw, 1.25rem);line-height:1.2;text-wrap:balance;}.css-1g7r01k span{display:block;} Oyster, 40 mm, Everose gold Reference 126655

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Staying on course

The Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 40 in 18 ct Everose gold with an Oysterflex bracelet.

The oysterflex bracelet, highly resistant and durable.

The Yacht-Master’s new Oysterflex bracelet, developed by Rolex and patented, offers a sporty alternative to metal bracelets. The bracelet attaches to the watch case and the Oysterlock safety clasp by a flexible titanium and nickel alloy metal blade.

The blade is overmoulded with high-performance black elastomer which is particularly resistant to environmental effects, very durable and perfectly inert for the wearer of the watch. For enhanced comfort, the inside of the Oysterflex bracelet is equipped with a patented longitudinal cushion system that stabilizes the watch on the wrist and fitted with an 18 ct Everose gold Oysterlock safety clasp. It also features the Rolex Glidelock extension system, designed by the brand and patented. This inventive toothed mechanism, integrated beneath the clasp, allows fine adjustment of the bracelet length by some 15 mm in increments of approximately 2.5 mm, without the use of tools.

18 ct Everose gold

An exclusive patent

To preserve the beauty of its pink gold watches, Rolex created and patented an exclusive 18 ct pink gold alloy cast in its own foundry: Everose gold.

Introduced in 2005, 18 ct Everose is used on all Rolex Oyster models in pink gold.

Bidirectional Rotatable Bezel

Timing the distance.

The Yacht-Master’s bidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated bezel is made entirely from precious metals or fitted with a Cerachrom insert in high-tech ceramic. The raised polished numerals and graduations stand out clearly against a matt, sand-blasted background.

This functional bezel – which allows the wearer to calculate, for example, the sailing time between two buoys – is also a key component in the model’s distinctive visual identity.

Intense black dial

Exceptional legibility.

Like all Rolex Professional watches, the Yacht-Master 40 offers exceptional legibility in all circumstances, and especially in the dark, thanks to its Chromalight display.

The broad hands and hour markers in simple shapes – triangles, circles, rectangles – are filled with a luminescent material emitting a long-lasting glow.

More Yacht-Master technical details

Reference   126655

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Oyster, 40 mm, Everose gold

Oyster architecture

Monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown

Bidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated bezel with matt black Cerachrom insert in ceramic, polished raised numerals and graduations

Winding crown

Screw-down, Triplock triple waterproofness system

Scratch-resistant sapphire, Cyclops lens over the date

Water resistance

Waterproof to 100 metres / 330 feet

Perpetual, mechanical, self-winding

3235, Manufacture Rolex

-2/+2 sec/day, after casing

Centre hour, minute and seconds hands. Instantaneous date with rapid setting. Stop-seconds for precise time setting

Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring. High-performance Paraflex shock absorbers

Bidirectional self-winding via Perpetual rotor

Power reserve

Approximately 70 hours

Flexible metal blades overmoulded with high-performance elastomer

Folding Oysterlock safety clasp with Rolex Glidelock extension system

Intense black

Highly legible Chromalight display with long-lasting blue luminescence

Certification

Superlative Chronometer (COSC + Rolex certification after casing)

Learn how to set the time and other functions of your Rolex watch by consulting our user guides.

Yacht-Master 40

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Welcome to Ben Bridge Jeweler. Official Rolex Jeweler in the United States

Ben Bridge is proud to be part of the worldwide network of Official Rolex Jewelers, allowed to sell and maintain Rolex Watches.

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Exploring the Legendary Rolex Submariner 16613: A Detailed Review

Discover the allure of the Rolex 16613 – a blend of luxury and functionality that has captivated watch enthusiasts for decades. This comprehensive review delves into the history, features, and enduring appeal of this iconic Submariner model. Whether you’re a seasoned collector or considering your first luxury timepiece, our in-depth analysis will guide you through the world of the Rolex 16613.

Evolution of the Rolex Submariner 16613

The Rolex 16613 stands as a testament to the brand’s commitment to innovation and luxury. Born from the legendary Rolex Submariner collection, this model marked a significant milestone in Rolex’s history . Introduced in 1988, the 16613 brought a touch of opulence to the rugged dive watch world with its two-tone design.

Throughout its production run from 1988 to 2010, the Rolex Submariner 16613 saw subtle refinements that enhanced its appeal. Early models featured tritium dials, later replaced by Super-LumiNova for improved luminescence. The clasp design evolved, offering better security and comfort for divers and enthusiasts alike.

Compared to modern Submariners, the 16613 retains a vintage charm with its aluminum bezel insert and slightly thinner case profile. While newer models boast ceramic bezels and broader lugs, many collectors prefer the 16613’s classic proportions and the warmth of its two-tone design, making it a bridge between vintage and contemporary Rolex aesthetics.

Key Features of the Rolex 16613

The Rolex Submariner 16613 is a masterpiece of horological engineering, combining form and function in a package that has stood the test of time. From its robust construction to its precise movement, every aspect of this watch exemplifies Rolex’s commitment to excellence . Let’s explore the key features that make the 16613 a standout model in the Submariner line.

Materials and Build Quality

The Rolex 16613 showcases a harmonious blend of durability and luxury. Its case and bracelet feature a two-tone design, marrying the strength of 904L stainless steel with the opulence of 18k yellow gold. This combination not only provides superior corrosion resistance but also offers a visual appeal that transitions seamlessly from diving excursions to formal events.

The iconic blue or black dial options complement the two-tone design, with the blue variant being particularly sought after. The dial’s color depth and sunburst finish create a mesmerizing play of light, enhancing the watch’s overall elegance. Gold-trimmed hour markers and hands provide excellent contrast, ensuring readability in various lighting conditions.

Case and Size

The Rolex Submariner 16613 boasts a classic 40mm case diameter, striking the perfect balance between presence and wearability. This size has become iconic in the watch world, suitable for a wide range of wrist sizes and preferences. The Oyster case construction, a hallmark of Rolex innovation, ensures water resistance up to an impressive 300 meters (1,000 feet).

The case profile of the 16613 is slightly slimmer compared to modern Submariner models, giving it a more subtle presence on the wrist. This design feature, coupled with the comfortable Oyster bracelet, makes the 16613 an excellent choice for daily wear. The screw-down crown, featuring Rolex’s Triplock system, further enhances the watch’s water resistance and protects the movement.

Bezel and Dial

The unidirectional rotatable bezel of the Rolex 16613 is both a functional diving tool and a design element. Featuring 60-minute graduations, it allows divers to accurately monitor their underwater time. The aluminum bezel insert, available in blue or black to match the dial, offers a classic look that has aged beautifully on many vintage pieces.

Luminescent markers on both the dial and bezel provide exceptional readability in low-light conditions, a crucial feature for professional divers. The Submariner’s signature Mercedes hands and dot markers are instantly recognizable, maintaining legibility even in the murky depths of the ocean. The date window at 3 o’clock, magnified by the Cyclops lens, adds practical functionality to the watch’s elegant design.

At the heart of the Rolex Submariner 16613 beats the reliable Caliber 3135 movement. This self-winding mechanical movement is a testament to Rolex’s watchmaking prowess, offering precision and durability that have made it a mainstay in many Rolex models. COSC-certified as a chronometer, the 3135 ensures exceptional timekeeping accuracy.

The Caliber 3135 boasts a power reserve of approximately 48 hours, allowing the watch to maintain accurate time even when left unworn over a weekend. Rolex’s Parachrom Bleu hairspring provides increased resistance to shocks and temperature variations, enhancing the movement’s overall reliability. The smooth sweeping seconds hand, moving at 28,800 vibrations per hour, is a hallmark of high-end mechanical watchmaking.

The Oyster bracelet of the Rolex 16613 is a perfect complement to its two-tone case. Combining brushed stainless steel outer links with polished 18k yellow gold center links, the bracelet offers both durability and luxury. The contrast between the metals creates a visual interest that elevates the watch’s overall aesthetic.

Rolex’s attention to detail extends to the bracelet’s clasp. The Glidelock extension system allows for fine adjustments without tools, ensuring a perfect fit over a wetsuit or for daily comfort. The folding Oysterlock safety clasp provides security, preventing accidental openings. These features, combined with the bracelet’s solid construction, contribute to the 16613’s reputation as a reliable companion for both underwater adventures and everyday wear.

Why the Rolex Submariner 16613 is Iconic

The Rolex Submariner 16613 holds a special place in the hearts of watch enthusiasts and collectors alike. Its two-tone design represents a perfect balance between sportiness and elegance, embodying the versatility that Rolex is known for. This model bridges the gap between tool watch functionality and luxurious appeal, making it a standout piece in the Submariner lineup.

Throughout its production run, the 16613 has graced the wrists of notable figures, from Hollywood celebrities to business tycoons. Its appearances in films and high-profile events have cemented its status as a symbol of success and refined taste. The watch’s ability to look equally at home in the boardroom and on the beach underscores its iconic versatility, appealing to those who appreciate a timepiece that can keep up with diverse lifestyles.

Unmatched Performance and Durability

The Rolex Submariner 16613 isn’t just a pretty face; it’s a robust tool watch designed to withstand the rigors of professional diving. Its water resistance to 300 meters ensures reliable performance in underwater environments, while the unidirectional bezel provides a crucial safety feature for divers monitoring their dive times. The Triplock crown system and solid case construction contribute to its exceptional water resistance and overall durability.

The combination of stainless steel and 18k yellow gold in the 16613 offers more than aesthetic appeal. This pairing enhances the watch’s corrosion resistance, particularly important in marine environments where exposure to saltwater is common. The 904L stainless steel used by Rolex is especially resistant to pitting and maintains its luster even after years of use in harsh conditions.

Over time, the Caliber 3135 movement has proven its reliability and longevity. Many 16613 models from the late 1980s and early 1990s continue to keep excellent time with proper maintenance. The movement’s robust construction and Rolex’s use of high-quality materials contribute to its ability to withstand the test of time, often requiring only routine servicing to maintain peak performance.

A Solid Investment: The Rolex 16613’s Financial Appeal

The Rolex 16613 has demonstrated impressive appreciation over the years, solidifying its status as a sound investment piece. Since its discontinuation in 2010, the model has seen steady growth in value, particularly for well-preserved examples. This appreciation reflects both the watch’s enduring popularity and the overall strength of the vintage Rolex market.

Several factors influence the investment value of a 16613. Condition is paramount, with collectors placing a premium on pieces that retain their original finish and show minimal signs of polishing. The presence of original papers and box (known as “full set”) significantly enhances value, often commanding prices 20-30% higher than watches sold without these accessories. Original parts, particularly the bezel insert and dial, are crucial for maintaining maximum value.

Compared to other Submariner models, the 16613 occupies a unique position in terms of investment potential. While it may not appreciate as rapidly as some rare vintage models, it often outperforms many modern Submariners in terms of value retention. Its two-tone design and discontinued status contribute to its desirability, positioning it as a sweet spot for collectors seeking a balance between wearability and investment potential.

Captivating Variations and Rare Finds

The Rolex Submariner 16613 offers collectors a range of variations to pursue, with dial color being a primary differentiator. The blue dial variant, often referred to as the “Bluesy,” is particularly coveted for its vibrant hue that seems to change under different lighting conditions. The black dial version, while less common, appeals to those seeking a more understated look. Both colors have their devotees, with preferences often driving slight differences in market value.

Within the 16613 line, certain variations have become highly sought after by collectors. Early models featuring tritium dials, identified by the “T SWISS T” or “SWISS T<25” markings at the bottom of the dial, command a premium. Dials with specific color variations or subtle production changes, such as the “flat four” bezel (where the ‘4’ in ’40’ on the bezel has a flat top), can significantly increase a watch’s collectibility and value.

The presence of original box and papers cannot be overstated when it comes to the 16613’s collectibility and resale value. A full set not only provides provenance but also offers insight into the watch’s history and authenticity. Collectors are often willing to pay a substantial premium for a complete set, sometimes up to 25-30% more than for the watch alone. This emphasis on documentation underscores the importance of preserving all original materials when purchasing a luxury timepiece.

Your Buying Guide to the Perfect Rolex 16613

When venturing into the world of pre-owned Rolex Submariner 16613s, knowledge is your greatest asset. Start by familiarizing yourself with the model’s hallmarks: the two-tone design, the specific shade of blue or black on the dial and bezel, and the characteristic Oyster bracelet. Pay close attention to the overall condition, looking for signs of excessive wear or poor maintenance that might indicate a troubled history.

Authenticity is paramount when purchasing a Rolex 16613. Familiarize yourself with the model’s specific features, such as the engraved rehaut (the space between the dial and crystal), the precise positioning of dial text, and the quality of the cyclops magnification. The serial and model numbers should be correctly positioned between the lugs. When possible, ask for detailed, high-resolution images of these areas to scrutinize before making a purchase.

Be wary of Submariner 16613s with aftermarket modifications. While some changes, like a strap swap, are easily reversible, others can significantly impact the watch’s value and authenticity. Aftermarket dials, non-original hands, or replaced bezels are red flags that should prompt caution. If considering a modified piece, ensure that all original parts are included with the sale to maintain the watch’s long-term value.

The importance of purchasing from a trusted dealer cannot be overstated. Reputable sellers offer authenticity guarantees, detailed service histories, and often provide warranties on pre-owned pieces. They should be willing to answer all your questions and provide detailed information about the watch’s condition and history. While you might pay a slight premium compared to private sales, the peace of mind and after-sale support are invaluable when investing in a luxury timepiece like the Rolex Submariner 16613.

Conclusion: Why the Rolex 16613 Remains a Sought-After Model

The Rolex 16613 stands as a testament to timeless design and uncompromising quality. Its blend of functionality and luxury has captivated watch enthusiasts for decades, cementing its place in horological history. From its robust performance as a dive watch to its elegant presence in social settings, the 16613 exemplifies versatility in luxury watchmaking.

For those considering adding a Rolex Submariner 16613 to their collection, it represents more than just a timepiece. It’s an investment in craftsmanship, a piece of watchmaking history, and a symbol of personal achievement. Whether you’re drawn to its technical prowess, its investment potential, or simply its classic good looks, the 16613 offers something special for every watch lover.

If you’re in the market for a Rolex 16613 for sale , look no further than Bob’s Watches. As specialists in luxury timepieces, we offer a curated selection of authenticated Rolex Submariner models, including the iconic 16613. Our team of experts is ready to guide you through the selection process, ensuring you find the perfect example to cherish for years to come.

About Bob's Watches

With over two decades of experience in the industry, Bob's Watches has cultivated a deep passion and expertise in luxury timepieces, making them a trusted authority in the watch community. With a passion for horology and over two decades of experience, Bob's Watches has established itself as a go-to resource for buying, selling, and trading luxury watches. They offer an extensive selection of pre-owned timepieces from renowned brands such as Rolex, OMEGA, Patek Philippe, Panerai, and more. At Bob's Watches, authenticity and quality are of utmost importance. Each watch listed on their platform undergoes a meticulous inspection and authentication process by expert professionals, ensuring that customers can purchase with confidence, knowing they are acquiring genuine and top-notch timepieces. With a focus on exceptional customer service, Bob's Watches strives to provide a seamless and secure buying experience. Their user-friendly website allows customers to explore their diverse inventory, complete with detailed descriptions and high-resolution images. They also offer free overnight shipping and hassle-free returns to enhance customer convenience. Bob's Watches is not only a marketplace but also a valuable resource for watch enthusiasts. Their blog features insightful articles, industry news, buying guides, and educational content to help customers make informed decisions. With a strong BBB A+ rating and recognition from reputable news publications, Bob's Watches continues to be a trusted name in the luxury watch industry. Whether you're a seasoned collector or a novice, rely on Bob's Watches to navigate the world of luxury timepieces with confidence and expertise.

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