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The complete list of trimarans.

There is no single trimaran that is best for everyone. Where some prefer luxury cruisers for long trips with family and friends, others might opt for a high performance racing tri for thrilling rides at breakneck speeds. With the recent spike in trimaran popularity, these days there is a perfect tri for every sailor. So to help prospective trimaran owners decide which boat is just right for them, we here at WindRider have put together a comprehensive list of the best trimarans on the market today! Read through for simple at-a-glance trimaran comparisons of boats both big and small, exhilarating and relaxing, and for all price points.

Jump to a specific sailing trimaran: Neel Weta Corsair WindRider Dragonfly Catri Astus Hobie Sea Pearl Farrier Sea Cart Multi 23 Triak SeaRail Warren Lightcraft Diam Radikal Challenger

Known for their award-winning luxury trimarans,   NEEL   is based in La Rochelle, the capital city of sailing in France. NEEL trimarans are built for fast cruising with an average cruising speed of about 10 knots, and are even configured to facilitate that sustained speed under motor propulsion. The NEEL 45 was notably named Cruising World’s Most Innovative Vessel in 2013, and by all accounts is an easy-to-sail, high performance boat that is just plain fun.

At a glance:

Models: NEEL 45, 65

Length: 45’ – 65’

Cost:   $$$$$

Use: Luxury cruiser

A fan favorite,   Weta trimarans   are fast, stable, and remarkably easy to rig. This single-sailor tri has a capacity of up to three, and the ease with which it can be transported and stored makes this a great, versatile boat for beginners. The Weta was named Sailing World’s 2010 Boat of the Year, and one ride is enough to know why: simply put, the Weta is an absolute ton of fun to sail regardless of skill level.

Models: Weta

Length: 14’5”

Cost:   $$ $$$

The high-end   Corsair trimaran   definitely holds its own in the categories of versatility, performance, and convenience. Boasting a rigging time of 30 minutes from trailer to sailor ,   the Corsair 42 – whose convenient folding amas makes trailering possible – is a simple option even for single sailors, though cabin space is suitable for two adults. These boats are wicked fast, capable of reaching speeds of 20+ knots, and were made for skilled sailors seeking solid construction and high performance vessels, not for beginners.

Models: Pulse 600, Sprint 750 MKII, Dash 750 MKII, Corsair 28, Cruze 970, Corsair 37, Corsair 42

Length: 19’8” – 37’

Cost:   $$$$ $

Use: Sports cruisers

Built for the sailor who wants to maximize the joys of sailing while minimizing any hassle, WindRider trimarans are notoriously fast, very safe, and a blast to sail from start to finish. With several models that can hold between 1 and 6 riders, including adaptive designs to allow participation from sailors of all levels of mobility, there’s something to suit every sailor’s needs. The WindRider 17, an exhilarating ride perfect for families or camper sailors, has been known to reach speeds of up to 20mph. This easy day sailor goes from trailer to sailing in under 30 minutes and is sure to fit in perfectly with whatever adventures you have planned.

Models: WR 16, 17, Tango, Rave V

Length: 10’11” – 18’3”

Cost:   $ $$$$

Use: Day sailor

The Danish-built   Dragonfly   trimarans come in a variety of models ranging from 25’ – 35’, all known for their spry performance, comfortable ride, and ease of use. Every model comes equipped with the unique “SwingWing” feature, a motorized system that can unfold the amas even while the boat is already underway – making it accessible to marinas and slips, and even makes trailering possible. Perfect for those who don’t want to sacrifice their comfort for high performance, the Dragonfly can breeze along at 13 knots while remaining one of the quietest compact cruisers out there.

Models: Dragonfly 25, 28, 32, 35, 1200

Length: 25’ – 39’

Designed for both safe cruising as well as for high speed racing,   Catri trimarans   will make your day. Especially noteworthy is the Catri 25, a stable yet wildly fast foiling trimaran with accommodations for up to 6 people. With profiles optimized for speeds of 25+ knots when foiling, this is no beginner’s sailboat. The special attention paid to stability in the foil design allows the Catri to be a single sailor vessel, even at foiling speed, with no special physical abilities. Whether you’re taking a small crew for longer rides at shuddering speeds or bringing the whole family along for a shorter, but still thrilling sail, the Catri is truly one of a kind.

Models: Catri 25

Length: 25’

Use: Cruiser/racer

A popular brand of trimaran in Europe,   Astus   has recently made its way to the US market to the delight of sailors on this side of the pond. Designed to offer maximum pleasure with minimum hassle, all models of Astus trimarans are fast to set up, quick on the water, inherently stable, and always a joy to sail. Their outriggers are mounted on telescopic tubes for easy stowage and towing, and can even be extended and retracted on the water for access to narrow passageways and monohull slips in marinas. With models in all sizes and price points, Astus trimarans are a great option for any sailor.

Models: Astus 16.5, 18.2, 20.2, 22, 24

Cabin: Some models

Length: 16’ – 24’

Use: Sport cruisers

HOBIE ADVENTURE ISLAND

Great for beginners and adventurers alike, the   Hobie Mirage Adventure Island   series is nothing if not just plain fun. With the option to use as a kayak or as a very basic trimaran, the Hobie is transportable, versatile, unintimidating, lightweight, and wonderfully affordable. The pedal system known as “Mirage Drive” allows a person to pedal the kayak using their legs for an extra kick of movement in slow winds. Amas tuck close to the main hull for docking or car-topping, adding serious ease and convenience to the exhilarating experience of the Hobie.

Models: Hobie Mirage Adventure Island, Mirage Tandem Island

Length: 16’7” – 18’6”

Use: Convertible kayak/trimarans

Best known for its use in camp cruising excursions, the   Sea Pearl   offers a roomy main hull and particular ability to sail in very shallow waters, making beaching and launching a breeze. The lightweight Sea Pearl trimaran is easy to tow, and the larger-than-expected cabin opens this vessel up for overnight adventures with plenty of storage space. The simple design makes the Sea Pearl notoriously low maintenance, and the ease it takes to rig and sail it add to the overall delight of owning this boat.

Models: Sea Pearl

Length: 21’

Use: Camper cruiser

Quick, lightweight, roomy, and trailerable,   Farrier trimarans   are made for versatility to fit every sailor’s needs. Different Farrier models are available in plan or kit boat form for those who appreciate building their boat themselves, but of course, also as the full production sail-away boat for the rest of us. Single-handed rigging and launching takes under 10 minutes from start to finish, minimizing hassle and getting you on the water fast. All non-racing Farrier designs use a minimum wind capsize speed of 30 knots or more to ensure safety for all those aboard. Add the roomy cabin and high speed capabilities to the equation and you’ve got a boat that is great fun for everyone.

Models:   F-22, 24, 25, 82, 27, 28, 31, 9A, 9AX, 9R, 32, 33, 33R, 33ST, 36, 39, 41, 44R

Length: 23’ – 39’4”

Cost:   $$$ $$

Use: Sport cruisers/racers

One of the biggest names in the game,   SeaCart   is internationally noted for its high performance trimarans that far exceed expectations for a production boat of its size. The SeaCart trimaran performs as brilliantly off the water as it does on with its super-light and efficient harbor folding system, making light work of trailering. Notoriously easy to manage and maintain, the SeaCart 26 One Design is the ultimate day racing trimaran, designed for both course and inshore/coastal distance racing. Absolutely worth the international buzz it has garnered, the SeaCart is a thrill from beginning to end.

Models:   SeaCart 26

Length: 26’

A high performance racer class, the   Multi 23   is a lightweight, powerful trimaran known for its wicked speed of up to 25 knots. Multi trimarans of both available configurations were designed to give beach cat thrills and speed without any of the stability or seaworthy concerns. Open ocean sailing is no issue for the Multi’s big bows, which do their job to keep her stable. Built for sailors with a need for speed, the Multi makes a perfect weekend boat for racers, especially those with a taste for boat camping.

Models:   Multi 23

Length: 23’

Another dual outrigger sailing kayak/canoe design,   the Triak trimaran   was designed to be effortless and fun, especially for beginners. Paddle the kayak with sails furled, use the foot pedals for an extra kick of momentum, or sail with just the mainsail – the only boat in its class to feature an asymmetrical spinnaker – for exhilarating speeds and a blast on the water. Car-top the Triak anywhere for a quick sail or plan for a week long expedition, but always count on having a great time on this easy little boat.

Models:   Triak

Length: 18’

Use: Convertible kayak/trimaran

SeaRail trimarans   are known for being affordable, light weight, trailerable trimarans that offer the perfect combination of exciting and relaxing experiences to a wide range of sailors. Whether it’s day sailing with your family, resort or camper sailing, SeaRail trimarans are ideal leisure vessels. Leave the hassle to the other boats – the SeaRail takes you from trailer to sailor in 15 minutes. But don’t let its reputation as a leisure tri fool you: if speed is what you want, rest assured that the SeaRail can deliver that as well.

Models:   SeaRail 19

WARREN LIGHTCRAFT

Warren Lightcraft trimarans , another example of a convertible kayak-to-sailboat option, are known for their aesthetically pleasing designs that are also, as the name implies, very light for simple transportation and ease of use. Convert the kayak into a fast, high performance sailboat in just minutes, fly around on the waves all day long, then simply car-top the 68lb Warren for a maximum enjoyment, low-hassle day on the water. Perfect for sailors and paddlers of all skill levels, the Warren Lightcraft is the best of both worlds and an absolute joy to sail.

Models:   Warren Lightcraft

Length: 15’6”

Built strictly with racing in mind,   the Diam 24   is a light, powerful one-design class trimaran and a notoriously exceptional performer. Boasting blistering speeds of up to 30 knots, Diam trimarans are not intended for beginners. For racers who crave the very best in terms of intense speeds, smooth handling and impeccable performance, the Diam is the red-hot one-design racing tri for you.

Models:   Diam 24

Length: 24’

For the sailor who prefers the finer things in life, the   Radikal 26   delivers. Perfect for bringing the whole family out for a day on the water, this high performance, trailerable sailing trimaran strikes the most luxurious balance between quicksilver speeds and a smooth, comfortable ride. The Radikal 26 trimaran is as convenient to transport and set up as it is pleasant to sail, with a folding system that minimizes rigging hassle and also makes this a trailerable tri. Built for a fast and comfortable sail rather than a hold-onto-your-seats thrill, one-the-water safety and overall pleasure makes the Radikal 26 what it is.

Models:   Radikal 26

Use: Sport cruiser

A solidly-built, single-handed trimaran, the Challenger also doubles as an adaptive design – meaning it is made to accommodate sailors of all levels of physical mobility. Best suited to lakes, the Challenger is a very safe, seaworthy boat for sailors of all ages and experience levels. Add to this the ease of owning, transporting and maintaining the Challenger trimaran and what you get is a simple, fun sailboat perfect both for beginners and those seeking a cheap thrill alike.

Models:   Challenger

At a glance comparison:

Did we miss one? Let us know. Tell us what you sail and what you like about each boat in the comments below.

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Small trimaran information, small multihull design, design issues, construction methods, comparisons of designs, speed, stability, and much more….

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Home » LIST of WOODEN BOAT PLANS – By Michael Storer » Drop-in Outrigger Plan for Canoes & Kayaks (some dinghies) Sailing Videos

Drop-in Outrigger Plan for Canoes & Kayaks (some dinghies) Sailing Videos

The drop in outrigger can transform many unstable canoes, narrow dinghies and some kayaks into a stable platform for fishing or diving or convert your boat into a formidable sailing outrigger or trimaran sailing canoe .

• Turn a Canoe or Kayak into a formidable sailing boat or a super stable fishing platform. Drop in Outrigger Plan info here.
• Whizz Along in Armchair Comfort – or – the Ideal Fishing Platform (paddle/motor)
• Diving or Snorkelling Platform
• All Components under 10lbs
• Everything removes from the original boat easily
• 2 sheets ply

Specification

Hull length 2350 Beam 290 Hull Depth at middle of hull 265 Hull Depth from line joining bow and stern measured perpendicular to keel 340mm

NEW Mini Outriggers – click here for information.

These smaller and simpler outriggers are designed to be kept above the water most of the time. But if a gust hits it gives the sailor of a canoe or narrow dinghy with a bit more time to react by easing the sheet (first!) and/or hiking out.

The “Drop in Outrigger” design explained below is bigger for full time sailing on the outrigger.

The first time I worked on this concept we took an elegant Strip Planked REDBIRD canoe and fitted it with this outrigger system.  All components are light and easily removable. And as with our other sailing canoe work very well.

With the additional stability we were able to cram on a significant amount of sail in a simple Lateen Rig. – about 7.5 sq metres (80 sq ft) for real sailing performance.   One of the advantages of the lateen rig is that the sail can be a backyard manufactured item.  We made ours out of a blue plastic tarpaulin – I think the total sail cost was about $40.  The Lateen even if cut completely flat develops a useful driving shape when loaded up by the wind.

The boat whipped along nicely and did not require a leeboard when the leeward hull was well immersed and the speed was maintained. Try to point high and low speed combined with leeway counters upwind progress. But point at 70 degrees and the speed greatly exceeds the upwind speed of a normal monohull and leeway reduces.

Unfortunately I don’t have any pics of Mr Webb’s Fabulous Redbird under full sail – but it was great fun. The photos of the black outriggers here are on Daniel Caselli’s Eureka Canoe in Uruguay.

Video 1- of the drop in outrigger Plan conversion of a canoe or dinghy into a fast stable sailing trimaran

The Bolger designed Teal is a lovely simple dinghy, but it can be an exciting handful in stronger winds. Video below: Jan Cudak added the outriggers to turn the Teal into a very pleasant stress free sailing outrigger.

You also see the little 12ft dinghy is sailing way faster than the original design.

It had a surprising turn of speed and was quite exciting to sail.

This applies the dynamics of Proa, Trimaran and outrigger design to an existing boat.

Loads on the structure are limited by the modest ama volume. As the amas are loaded up speed is increased. However, when the load starts getting closer to the design strength of the crossbeams the amas start submerging. Thus providing feedback to ease the sail and back off.

With larger outrigger hull designs which do not submerge it is the load in the main hull of crew and gear along with platform weight that set the loads on the crossbeams. As this can vary it means the crossbeams have to be heavier to carry unanticipated loads.

We also have plans for other sailing canoes

Additional free pack for plan purchasers – basic sail and crossbeams for low Freeboard canoes

Portability of the lightweight drop in outrigger components

None of the components weigh more than 10 pounds (4.5kg).

Some downsides from the conversion – not serious but so you know.

The only downside was that the Redbird canoe hull, being a brilliant straight line paddling boat, just refused to go round corners easily – it just refused to tack through the wind. 

Either it had to be assisted by someone with a paddle – or the tack was completed by the boat picking up a little bit of speed in reverse then steered out with reverse rudder.  Not a big problem at all – and the speed in a straight line made it all very worthwhile!!

This depends on the characteristics of the original hull. If it is easy to turn the trimaran will too. Here one of my Quick Canoes with the the drop in outrigger components inside the hull for transport.

Outrigger hull construction is simple

The hulls are simple stitch and glue. Two panels, timber around the sheer and an epoxy fillet and glass along the keel line.

The crossbeams are simple laminations and look light and simple on the boat. 

The hulls attach to the crossbeams with butterfly nuts. Crossbeams are lashed into the canoe hull. The attachment point for lashings is a doubler glued to the canoe hull with a deck eye (saddle bolted through. 

For sailing versions the upper mast partner is built into the forward crossbeam and the mast steps on a simple block glued to the bottom of the boat.

Any relatively narrow hull (under 3ft, 1.2m) is suitable, whether a canoe, kayak or rowboat. The crossbeams can be extended for wider boats by increasing the length of the flattish section in the middle. But there are limits as the distance between the gunwale of the main hull and the furthest point of the crossbeam should not exceed 1200mm .

In other words, the steering characteristic of the whole shebang is defined by the main hull.

The owners use it for holidays – it all roofracks easily because of the light weight – and for fishing.

There have been a couple of these built to make a canoe into an excellent fishing platform.  For that purpose they used a small outboard (2 or 3hp pushes a canoe along quite quickly) attached to a bracket on one of the crossbeams.  The outer hulls provide an extra level of safety as they are watertight.

Fitting a single outrigger hull only makes a tacking proa. The ends without the outrigger hull should project about 12 to 18″ (300 to 400mm) outside the gunwale and the two ends tied together with a piece of timber so they can’t move relative to each other.

The hulls and crossbeams can fit some small dinghies particularly if they are quite narrow and not too long.

The other advantage is that like the “drop-in kayak rig” when the outriggers are removed from the hull there is only the small block of wood acting as a mast step still attached to the canoe.

Because of the potential speed and power of sailing versions we recommend a rudder be fitted to the main hull.  Steering it with a paddle would just be too much work!  While a simple rudder makes things easy.

Powering with a Small outboard or Electric Trolling motor

Recommended power is a couple of horsepower maximum or an electric trolling motor with a couple of deep cycle batteries will give a good few hours moderate speed motoring.

It is possible for a motor or paddling configuration to use one hull only – a one sided outrigger canoe.  But the ends of the crossbeam without a hull have to have a tie bar between the ends.  This might potentially make a nice diving platform.  The outboard could be attached to the rear crossbeam close to the hull.

This outrigger canoe project below was to make a too unstable boat much more stable for outings and diving in the Philippines.

There are two free additions to the plan in a package available to purchasers. Email me with evidence of purchase.

• A flatter curve to the crossbeam for canoes and kayaks with lower freeboard.
• Drawings for an integrated sailing rig with mast supported by front crossbeam. This includes a sail design for polytarp or you can purchase a sail from our sailmaking arm;

Link for sails for Drop in Outrigger plan from our Really Simple Sails

Drop-in outrigger sails are available from reallysimplesails.com

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The new "Mini Trimaran" as it is being called (for now) is an evolution of our work in small multihulls over the years. It combines elements of the successful  Expedition Sailing Canoe  and the " kayak trimaran " named 'Spongebob' into a new vessel. Hull #1 was cut out as a CNC kit in July 2020 and is now in the process of going through sea trials. Click here for Construction  Photos of hull #1   You can get a sneak peak of the builders guide here .

Features of hull #1 included a roller furling mainsail and headsail for easy reefing and a boom for superior sail control. For Hull #2 we went back to a non rotating mast with slab reefing and single line reefing instead. The amas retract into the center crossbeams to reduce the overall beam for trailering without having to demount the amas. A stern cockpit with a large kayak style cockpit coaming can be used with a spray skirt. Steering is accomplished with foot pedal controls or a tiller. The boat can also be sailed from the center cockpit and there is optional space to install a hobie mirage drive in the center cockpit. Ample storage for a full expedition load. The center cockpit is flanked by a pair of "wing decks" which are large enough for sleeping aboard with a bivy or cockpit tent. A leeboard is controlled with lines running to the aft cockpit. The hull incorporates an integral spray chine above the water line to increase cockpit comfort while maintaining a narrow waterline beam of 19 1/2" 

Length: 18’ 6” Sailing Beam: 11’ Trailering Beam: 6’ 8-3/4” Working Sail: 100 sqft Optional Spinnaker: 80 sqft Empty weight: ~290lbs Gear/water capacity: 150lbs Full Load Displacement: 620lbs (solo) PPI: 117lbs (pounds per 1” immersion Ama buoyancy: 275lbs 

Above: Hull #1 freshly painted. April 2021

Latest News: Plans and a CNC kit for this design are coming soon. Hull #1 and 2 are currently in testing and prototyping phases and we look forward to improving the design of the rigging and kit for future builders. 

Video from first Sea Trials in Jan. 2021. We were very pleased with the performance and look forward to further testing the rigging and design in preparation for releasing plans and kits for this design. You can note in the video that the boat is being sailed totally empty so the bow rides a bit high. 

Hull #1 made the trip to the 2021 B&B Messabout and we had a chance to test here out. 

Hull #2 was completed and launched in January 2022. Changes to the design include adding some legroom to the aft cabin, and including space for a hobie mirage drive well in the center cockpit. Hull #2 does not have a roller furling mainsail but instead more traditional slab reefing. A Core Sound 17 mainsail is now the primary working sail and a furling code zero is again used for light air and an off the wind boost. 

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Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

Wow, that was fast! Why trimarans are SO much fun to sail – and how to do it

• Theo Stocker
• February 13, 2024

For their size, trimarans can punch well above their weight in speed, cruising potential and fun. Monohull sailor Theo Stocker gets to grips with how to handle one

Humans tend to gravitate into tribes of like-minded enthusiasts, enjoying the encouragement, support and sense of identity, while often looking askance at others; sailors at motorboaters, cruising sailors at racers, monohull sailors at raft, I mean, multihull sailors, and everyone looks askance at jet-skiers.

Large cruising catamarans (40ft now counts as a small one) are a world apart from monohull sailing, but there’s a sub-tribe of sailors dedicated to life on three hulls and builders such as Dragonfly, Corsair, Farrier, and Astus give them plenty of choice.

I’ve been sailing a 22ft (7m) Astus 22.5 this season, with just enough space for a family of four and a minimum of creature comforts. Thanks to her VPLP-designed hulls and 650kg all-up weight, we can sail upwind at 7-plus knots and downwind at over 10 knots with ease, all on a roughly even keel, while the kids play Duplo down below. It can also be beached and is towable behind a car.

Having, it seems, caught the trimaran bug, I wanted to get better at sailing and handling the boat, but my monohull sailing experience and habits were proving something of a hindrance, so we sought advice from some existing trimaran owners, and well as the UK’s top multihull sailors.

Much of the advice will apply to all multihulls , whether two or three-hulled, while other parts are just for small trimarans. I also found that brushing-up some of my rusty dinghy sailing skills helped get my head around what we were trying to do.

To try out our expert tips we went out sailing to see what difference they made. On the day, we got a solid Force 4-5 southwesterly, averaging 16 knots, but fluctuating between 12 and 20 knots true.

Blasting about on a sporty trimaran is a whole world of fun, but is much calmer than it looks

Trimaran sail trim

One of the biggest differences between a cruising monohull and a multihull is how the mainsail is trimmed. Leech tension on a yacht is often largely controlled by the kicker and the backstay, while the mainsheet sheets the mainsail in and out, predominantly controlling the angle of the boom to the centreline, and there may be a short traveller.

On a mulithull, however, there’s more than enough space for a good, wide traveller. Those who sail on performance monohulls will also be used to this. The sail shape is mainly controlled by the mainsheet, and the traveller then moves the boom towards or away from the centreline.

This is exaggerated on a multihull which has wide shrouds, swept well aft with no backstay, making space for a powerful square-top mainsail with full-length battens. There’s no backstay to bend the mast and flatten what is anyway a pretty rigid mainsail.

The mainsheet purchase creates enough power to control the leech of the square-top mainsail

Depowering a trimaran

Sailing on a monohull, heel and weatherhelm and eventually a broach give loads of warning that you’re pushing too hard. With straight hulls and little heel, those warning signs don’t really apply to multihulls.

In reality, however, there are a host of warning signals that it’s time to back-off; they’re just a bit different. Even then, there’s still a large safety margin before you get close to danger.

By way of reassurance, with the boat powered up on a beat, Hein, from Boats on Wheels, the boat’s owner, stood on the leeward hull and lent on the shrouds. Even as his feet got wet and the wind gusted at the top of Force 4, the boat didn’t bat an eyelid, thanks to the huge buoyancy of the floats.

Even with a person on the leeward float the boat was extremely stable

On the water – sail trim

My first inclination was to point the boat as high upwind as possible, pin the sails in and go for height. Doing that resulted in a not-terrible boat speed of 5-6 knots and a good pointing angle.

Free off by a handful of degrees however, and ease the sails just a smidge, and the speed leapt up to 8-9 knots – over 50% more; a huge increase. So, don’t pinch. If you had a decent chartplotter on board, you could find your optimum speed to angle using velocity made good (VMG).

I was also tempted to pinch in the gusts, but it’s better to hold your course and let the speed increase until the main needs easing.

On the wind, it’s time to get the boat fully powered up

If that’s the case, drop the main down the traveller an inch or two or ease some twist into the mainsail and it makes all the difference in the world, but not so far that the top battens fall away and invert – that really isn’t fast. Push too hard and the boat will slow down, largely from the drag of submerging the leeward float and crossbeams. If you’re still overpowered and the main is luffing, it’s time to reef. Downwind is different, but we’ll get onto that later.

After we put a reef in the main, our boat speeds upwind remained largely the same, and the boat was much happier. I came away feeling reassured that even a little trimaran like this would be pretty difficult to capsize, and there were always plenty of warning signs telling me to take my foot off the pedal a little.

Article continues below…

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As former editor of Yachting World, David Glenn has plenty of experience of both monohull and multihull cruising. Here he…

Tacking and gybing a trimaran

Everyone knows that multihulls don’t tack as well as monohulls. Straight hulls and wide beam don’t lend themselves to turning, especially when coupled with the displacement and fixed keels of big cats. Trimarans are a little easier, with a single central daggerboard to act as a pivot, and one or other of the floats will generally be clear of the water. On the downside, light displacement means that there isn’t much momentum to keep you going through the turn and plenty of windage to stop you.

On a trimaran the central daggerboard helps the boat to turn by providing a central pivot point that catamarans lack

Speed is your friend. Build speed up before the tack to give you as much momentum as possible. The helm needs to steer positively into and through the turn, and if necessary, keep the jib backed on the new windward side to help the bow through the wind. Don’t worry about scrubbing speed off, but you don’t want to get stuck in irons.

When it comes to gybing, speed is again key. The turning bit isn’t going to be an issue as you’ll be scooting along, but the faster you’re going, the less load there will be on the sails. The more you slow down, the more the true wind will pile up.

Trimaran sailing skills

Tacks took a bit of practice. It felt plain wrong to jab the tiller across the boat, slamming a big break on in the water but I ended up putting us through the tacks far too slowly, losing a lot of speed. A more aggressive approach worked better. On the Astus, the traveller was between me and the tiller, so the tiller extension needed to be swung around the stern behind the mainsheet onto the new side.

Similarly, old habits of controlling a gybe needed to be modified. With the asymmetric set, we were planing at well over 10 knots, and the ideal is to stay on the plane. Heading dead downwind and centring the main lead to a more violent manoeuvre than flying into the gybe as fast as possible and, as the boom was never that far out thanks to the apparent wind angle, it didn’t need much extra controlling.

Coming up onto the wind after the gybe helped the asymmetric around the front of the jib and to fill on the new side. Stay too deep and it’ll get blanketed by the main. Once we had built up some apparent wind, we could bear away again.

You’ll be on a course deep downwind before you know it, hitting speeds in the double digits

Downwind in a trimaran

Upwind cruising may be fun in a multihull, but bearing away and going with the wind is what it’s all about. Easily-driven hulls, a generous sailplan and light weight mean you can be up and planing, leaving displacement boats wallowing in your wake.

The big difference comes from apparent wind. If you’re in a boat that can do 15 knots downwind in 20 knots of true wind, the resulting wind angles can really mess with your head.

To get going then, says Brian Thompson, ‘Use those leech tell-tales again when sailing downwind and reaching to set the correct twist through the mainsheet, and use the traveller to set the correct angle of the whole sail to the wind.’

As the wind and your speed builds, bear away and trim the main accordingly.

In theory, you shouldn’t need to ease the traveller at all, but you may need to if you want to sail deep downwind. As the gust fades, you’ll find the boat slows down, so you can come back up towards the wind a little to pick up some more breeze, and then bear away as you accelerate again.

Bear away as the boat accelerates. Your course will be something of a slalom as you look to keep a consistent wind angle

This results in something of a ‘slalom’ course, and will also be accentuated if you’re sailing down waves, but that’s all quite normal for apparent wind sailing. Ultimately, you’re looking for a consistent apparent wind angle, even if the resulting wake isn’t straight.

It’s worth remembering that apparent wind reduces the felt effect of the wind, so you need a sailplan to suit the true, not apparent wind speed.

I found that the boat was more sensitive to having a balanced sailplan and trim downwind than upwind, largely because you’ve got almost double the canvas up, with the bowsprit as an extra lever. When weather helm built, I needed to ease the mainsheet to increase twist to depower so that I could bear away. I must admit, getting the boat balanced, sailing fast and light on the helm at 15 knots was something I came away feeling I needed more practice at.

Reviewing the images, I suspect the asymmetric was sheeted in too hard, with too much twist in the main.

Getting a float fully submerged is when it’s time to back off

On the water

Unfurling the gennaker worked best on a beam reach, giving plenty of airflow over the sail to help it fully unfurl. This was also roughly the fastest point of sail, ideal for getting up some speed for apparent wind sailing. We mostly had the sails set for a close reach, even when we were beyond 120º off the true wind on a broad reach.

It was possible to soak deeper downwind, but lose the apparent wind benefit downwind and our speed dropped off dramatically, prompting us to point a bit higher to find some more speed.

As the boat powered up, it paid to hold a slightly higher angle than I would have done in a monohull for the boat to properly take off and get up into double digit speeds – topping out at 15 knots. Lymington to Cowes would have taken us just half an hour at that speed. It’s easy to give yourself a heck of a beat back!

We were sailing on a pretty flat day, so didn’t have to contend with any waves to speak of. On the recent RTI this is what caused the capsizes of at least two multis, a sobering reminder that you need to sail much more conservatively in lumpier conditions.

The bows want to point downwind, so a stern-first approach works with rather than against the boat

Coming alongside

A 650kg boat with no draught and plenty of windage feels dreadfully skittish when manoeuvring in confined spaces. Straight hulls with no forgiving curves and fragile-looking sharp bows make berthing tricky. You’ve got a couple of advantages on your side, however. In the Astus, the floats are at pontoon height making stepping off easy.

Whether you have an engine in each hull of a cat, or one in the central hull of a tri, there’s also a lot more leverage to play with to turn the boat and drive her on or off the pontoon. A steerable outboard gives you even more options.

If the boat has a lifting keel or daggerboards, put them down if there’s enough depth to give you a pivot and to resist drifting. Think about getting corners onto the pontoon, rather than putting the boat alongside. On tris, you won’t be able to get to the bow to fend off as it’s too narrow. You can rig a fender up forwards on a line, and two fenders are enough on the flat sides.

Steering with the outboard towards the pontoon will drive the stern in more; steer away to drive the bow in more

Offshore wind

Coming onto the pontoon with wind blowing off, it worked well coming in stern first. If there’s a tide running, you’ll want to be heading into the tide, so find a spot down wind and down tide to start your approach so you come in at an angle.

On our first attempt we had a bit of tide under us to start with so we came in at a much steeper angle, almost 90º, although this worked out OK in the end.

The crew could then step ashore, taking a line from the stern quarter round a cleat.

Drive forwards against the line and the bow will obediently drive up towards the pontoon, bringing you flat alongside. Getting off was simple, releasing the bowline, and allowing the bow to swing out the before slipping the stern line.

Coming in astern and stopping upwind of the berth meant the bows blew towards the pontoon far to quickly

Onshore wind

Getting onto and off a pontoon with onshore wind proved rather trickier. On our first attempt we came in stern first. The issue was that once we were just upwind of our desired berth and stopped, we lost steerage and the bow immediately blew off with alarming speed towards the pontoon.

Going ahead would only increase the force of the impact, while going astern only increased the bow’s sideways drift. I managed to back out without smashing the bow, but only just, and ended up awkwardly stern to the wind with the bows pointing at the pontoon.

On our second attempt we came in bows first but having aimed at the berth, I had to motor the stern to leeward to stop the bow hitting, making for a rather forceful coming alongside.

On take three, I came in forwards and began ferry gliding towards the berth early, keeping the bows to windward of the stern. Being able to steer with the outboard meant I could go ahead to keep the bow up, and go astern with the engine pulling the stern down toward the pontoon. In this way, it was possible to come in pretty well controlled and parallel to the berth.

To get out, motoring astern against a bow line pulled the entire boat clear before slipping the line

Leaving was a different proposition all together, as I didn’t want to drag the bow along the pontoon, or to drive hard onto it to spring off. Instead, we rigged a slip-line from the forward cross beam. Going astern against this, and then turning the engine towards the wind, I could pull the stern, and the rest of the boat, out and away from the pontoon.

Keeping power on astern, once we’d reached a decent angle, we slipped the line and went astern, finding steerage way almost at once, with the bow following obediently in our wake with more control than I had anticipated.

Whether the wind is blowing onto, or off the pontoon, you want the engine to be driving or pulling the boat off the pontoon with a line on the corner you are going away from. That way you avoid point-loading fine ends where it’s hard to fender.

You’ll want a bridle to reduce swinging, but keep the pick up lines on the bow as backup

Anchoring and mooring a trimaran

While mooring a catamaran is complicated by the lack of a central bow, things should be simpler on a trimaran, and they are, mostly. Picking up a mooring buoy from the main hull bow with a low freeboard and dropping the pick-up line onto a cleat is easier even than a monohull.

The bow may be narrow, but for any lines that pass through a ring on the buoy, you still need to take it back to the same cleat to avoid chafe. That should be it, but windage from the two extra bows and the lack of keel mean the boat can dance merrily around the mooring buoy in a breeze.

Rig the bridle so the buoy sits to one side to stabilise the boat

In practice, we found that a trimaran benefits from a mooring bridle in the same way that a catamaran does. It can’t be rigged from the floats’ bows, as there are no mooring cleats, so a line passed around the outboard ends of the forward beams gave a pretty good angle, again with long lines passed through the mooring and back to the same side. The main pick-up lines stay as a safety backup.

The other trick is to rig the bridle asymmetrically so that the buoy sits to one side or the other, just enough to not be dead head to wind, making it much more stable in the wind.

On the plus side, the lack of draught or keel means that you’ll nearly always be lying head to wind, so the cockpit remains nice and sheltered whatever the tide’s doing.

We ran out of time on the day to try anchoring, but rigging a bridle, effectively a long snubber to a point on the anchor chain in a similar way wouldn’t be tricky.

If you needed not to swing, or to behave more like deeper boats nearby, hanging a bucket over the stern can help, or there’s always anchoring with a kedge, either out ahead in a V, or in line astern.

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16 Best Trimarans For Sailing Around The World (And a Few For Daysailing)

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Trimarans are growing in popularity worldwide, due to their light construction and high stability these multihulls are even faster than catamarans. Trimarans are still one of the lesser-known boat types so in this article ill be checking out some of the most popular models.

The best trimarans include: 

• The Neel 43 
• The Neel 47 
• Dragonfly 28 
• The Pulse 600 
• Corsair 37 

These tris are built with your safety in mind while also packing powerful speed and a wide array of comfort features to optimize your sailing experience , some are even foldable making them possible to load on a trailer and transport to the sailing destination of your choosing.

In this article, I have created a list of the 16 best trimarans in the market and their unique features. You’ll also learn the best options for different purposes such as circumnavigation, weekend sailing, racing, and more. 

Table of Contents

What Is a Trimaran?

A trimaran is a multi hulled sailboat with three individual hulls; the main hull ( vaka ) and a pair of outrigger hulls ( amas ). These smaller outrigger hulls are attached to the main hull using beams. 

While trimarans have a rich history dating back nearly four millennia, these types of sailboats have only gained popularity in the late 1900s and early 2000s. 

Trimarans are primarily used as personal boats for sailing enthusiasts or racing. These sailboats draw their versatility from their lightweight design, making them faster and easier to handle at sea when compared to single-hulled boats (monohulls). Additionally, the three hulls also contribute to better stability, making it very hard to capsize (although more likely than a cat according to this study)

Trimarans come in various sizes, and some can be as small as 19 feet (5.8 meters) in length, while others go up to 60 feet (18meters). They’re also used for different purposes. Most trimarans are used for racing and recreational purposes, although some units are still used as ferries.

As with all things, to find out which is the best we need to understand what it will be used for. There is a big difference in requirements between a boat used for day sailing compared to offshore around the world sailing.

The list below highlights the best trimarans for different purposes.

Best Trimarans For Cruising, Liveaboard and Sailing Around The World

The Neel 43 is a French trimaran best suited for cruising. Its key features include: 

• Easy maneuverability on the open sea by only a small number of crew members 

This unit is also built for comfort, ideal for more extended travels. This 43-feet (13-meter) trimaran is also made with recyclable and bio-sourced materials, highlighting the manufacturer’s commitment to environmental consciousness. 

This trimaran has a base price of  €329,000 excluding VAT. This translates to approximately $370,138. 

2.Neel 47 Possibly The Best

Named the best full-size multihull for 2020, the Neel 47 is a strong contender for one of the best trimarans in the market. This 47-foot (14.3-meter) long trimaran features optimized exterior and interior ergonomics for a unique design and look. 

Still on design, the Neel 47 is ideal for couples looking to take a weekend off or spend some time as liveaboard. It has a spacious owner’s cabin and two bedrooms. It also features a spacious living room and kitchen and is optimized to ensure comfort for a couple. 

The Neel 47 also has two basic guest cabins so your friends or children can tag along on your sailing adventure. Accordingly, this unit is ideal for those looking to explore the sea for the sheer joy of sailing. 

The Neel 47 comes at a 571,139 euro ( $643,600 ) price tag, excluding VAT. 

3. Rapido 60 The Fast and Comfortable Circumnavigator

The Rapido 60 offers a blend of performance, safety, and luxury, making it one of the best options for bluewater sailing. Measuring 59.3 feet (18 meters) in length, the Rapido 60 is an imposing unit. It’s made from lightweight sandwiches and carbon materials that provide speed and strength, allowing it to stand up to strong ocean currents. 

The Rapido 60 also has spacious living spaces and is built for comfort at all points of the sail. Its design also optimizes safety. While it’s an ideal option for circumnavigating, it’s also an excellent choice for racing due to its speed. 

This is also the same boat that The Youtube channel La Vagabond just purchased.

The Rapido 60 retails at $1,400,000 . 

4. Rapido 40

The Rapido 40 measures 39.4 feet (12 meters) in length and is ideal for cruising around the world. The Rapido 40 features twin “C” foils, which provide added lift, enhancing its speed and performance whether you are sailing downwind or upwind. 

Because it has C foils, this trimaran doesn’t have a central daggerboard, increasing interior space. Accordingly, it’s an excellent option for couples looking to cruise and enjoy great performances .

The Rapido 40 is made from high-tech all-carbon materials for a lightweight yet sturdy design. This material is also used for the countertops and furniture, and the cork flooring adds a touch of style.

This trimaran retails for $595,000 , making it a cheaper option than the Rapido 60. 

5. Dragonfly 40

The Dragonfly 40 measures 40 feet (12 meters) in length. It features high-comfort standards, making it one of the best trimarans in the market for taking your family for a cruise. Because of its larger size, it has a better capacity, being capable of accommodating six to eight people, so you can bring your family and friends along. 

It’s easy to navigate and extremely safe. With a maximum speed of 24 knots (44.5 km/h), this trimaran also provides fast speeds to make your cruise even more exhilarating. 

The Dragonfly 40 retails from €509,000 exclusive of VAT, which rounds up to $572,000 . 

6. Dragonfly 32

The Dragonfly 32 is a high-performance cruiser. Like the Dragonfly 28, this unit features a contemporary design for racing. This trimaran can accommodate five to seven crew members. 

Although slightly longer than the Dragonfly 28 with its 32-foot (9.8-meter) length, the Dragonfly 32 has a max speed of 23+ knots (42.6+ km/h), making it one of the fastest trimarans for racing. This unit also has comfortable accommodation, which makes it an ideal option for a weekend cruise with family and friends. 

The Dragonfly 32 has a base price of $350,000 . 

7. Corsair 37

Thanks to a variable draft with a retractable rudder, the Corsair 37 is an ideal choice for shallow water exploration. This 37-foot (11.3-meter) long trimaran features advanced foam-cored construction designed for safety, making it virtually unsinkable. 

The carbon hulls minimize weight, this makes for a lightweight ocean exploration sailboat with blistering speeds. One of its selling points is that this trimaran has previously been used for Arctic expeditions, possibly marking it as one of the better options for circumnavigation and offshore sailing in the northern waters. 

This trimaran has a base price of $189,000 but can go up to $204,125 .

Best Trimarans For Day/Weekend Sailing

8. dragonfly 28.

The Dragonfly 28 is a 28-feet (8.75-meter) long sailboat that can accommodate up to five people. It comes in two versions: 

• Touring version: This version is ideal for families.  
• Performance version: This is built to provide optimal performance for the sports enthusiast within you. 

It clocks a maximum speed of 22+ knots (22+ km/h) and is beam-folded. It’s an excellent option if you want a high-performance, comfortable yet smaller unit for your day or weekend cruise. 

The Dragonfly 28 starts at  €188,280 inclusive of VAT, which comes to around $211,600. 

9. Dragonfly 25

Like other trimarans under the Dragonfly brand, this 25-foot (7.62-meter) trimaran is great for both racing and short term cruising. However, this high-performance boat delivers easy handling, making it perfect for couples looking to take a ride out over the weekend and seasoned sailors looking for an exhilarating racing adventure. 

The Touring version features a lightweight build and offers comfort and accommodation to keep you, and the few guests you can fit, comfortable during the ride. This trimaran also has a Sport version, which is optimized for racing. 

The Dragonfly 25 retails from EUR 86,800 . 

10. Pulse 600

The Pulse 600 trimaran is a compact sailboat. It’s made from lightweight, carbon-reinforced construction and vacuum-formed materials for optimal speed. This trimaran is an ideal option if you are looking for speed. 

It also features ample deck space, greater stability, and volume than most trimarans of similar size and build. 

This trimaran measures 19.8 feet (6 meters) in length and can be sailed single-handedly by one person with minimal effort. The Pulse 600 has a base price of $38,800 , which places it in the lower price range. 

The F-22 is one of the smaller trimarans in the market. Developed in New Zealand, the F-22 is a folding trimaran built for speed. The hulls are made from narrow fiberglass tied together using fiberglass beams and aluminum, minimizing bulk while optimizing speed. 

The F-22 is roomy and is not as pricey as other models in the market. This trimaran has two main versions: 

12. 2019 Weta Trimaran

The 2019 Weta trimaran is a 14.5-foot (4.4-meter) trimaran featuring a carbon frame, centerboard, rudder foil, and rudder shock. The hull is made from fiberglass and foam. The Weta is built for strength and speed based on these lightweight materials. 

The 2019 Weta trimaran is easy to sail and is worth considering whether you want to take a quiet sail, race with your friends, or take kids to a sailing lesson. It has a simple design and is easy to set up independently. Thanks to its collapsible design, this trimaran is easily stored away with minimal space demands. 

13. WindRider 17

The 17.4-foot (5.3-meter) WindRider 17 is one of the more versatile trimarans in the market. It packs high performance for a low cost. This trimaran has a light rotating mast to boost performance, and a full-battened mainsail optimizes visibility. 

This sailboat is made from rotomolded polyethylene, which is more durable than fiberglass and demands less maintenance.

The WindRider 17 has a comfortable interior and can fit six adults. This is an ideal choice for social sailing for a couple or a family and friends. It’s easy to ride, and a shallow draft allows easy maneuverability. 

14. Astus 22.5

If you’re looking for something small but still comfortable, this 22.5-foot trimaran is for you. Built for speed and maneuverability, the Astus 22.5 has optional foils to optimize speed. The modern design, coupled with the spacious interior, can fit up to four beds. Accordingly, this trimaran is suited for family outings. 

This trimaran also has a foldable design, collapsing to only 16 feet (4.9 meters) for easy storage. 

15. Multi 23 Trimaran 

The Multi 23 trimaran has a contemporary design, featuring a vinyl ester and PVC foam core construction. The section below the waterline is made of solid glass for a sturdy base.

The beams are made of lightweight carbon, and the trimaran features a 33-foot (10-meter) aluminum rotating wing mast for optimal harnessing of the wind. While ideal for weekend excursions with family, once rigged with the asymmetrical spinnaker will get your heart pumping.

This trimaran packs high performance at a lower cost than most other options in the market. It’s a good choice if you are looking for a high-performing unit without spending an arm and a leg. 

16. Challenger Class Trimaran

The Challenger Trimaran 15 is the best choice for persons with disabilities. It’s designed to provide disabled sailors an opportunity to explore their passion for sailing without worrying about aspects like safety or operation. 

A man named Geoff Hold circumnavigated the British Isles in 2007, becoming the first disabled person to achieve this feat. He had quadriplegia. 

Living up to its name, the Challenger can withstand harsh weather conditions while blending performance with speed. 

Final Thoughts 

Admittedly, no trimaran is best for everyone. But whether you are looking to race with your friends, take your loved ones or friends for a cruise over the weekend, or circumnavigate the ocean, you can rest assured that these lightweight trimarans will deliver speed, safety, and comfort to make it worth your while. 

These brands are innovatively designed and feature intricate safety mechanisms that make them virtually unsinkable. Give them a shot and begin your ocean adventure. 

• Basco Boating: A Comprehensive Guide & Introduction to Trimaran Yachts
• TheBoatAPP: New Trumarans: Which are the Best Ones
• Corsair Marine: Corsair 37
• Dragonfly: Dragonfly 28
• Rapido Trimarans: Rapido 60
• Neel Trimarans: Neel 43
• Yachting World: World’s Collect Yachts: Maxi Trimaran MACIF
• Yachting Monthly: Dragonfly 28 Performance
• Rapido Trimarans: Rapido 40
• Dragonfly: Dragon 32
• Dragonfly: Dragonfly 40
• Yachting World: Dragonfly 40 yacht tour: This cruising trimaran can do 24 knots
• Dragonfly: Dragonfly 25
• NauticExpo: Dragonfly 25
• Yachtworld: Corsair 37 boats for sale
• Cruising World: Neel 47 Trimaran: Best Full-Size Multihull0
• Neel Trimaran: Neel 47
• Multihull Solutions: NEEL 47 Boat Review | Cruising World
• Yacht World: 2022 Neel 47 for sale
• Farrier International: F-22
• Weta Marine: The Boat
• WindRider: WindRider 17 Trimaran Sailboat 
• Astus Boats: Astus 22.5
• Boat-specs: Multi 23
• National Maritime Museum Cornwall: Challenger Trimaran #1 – BC26

Owner of CatamaranFreedom.com. A minimalist that has lived in a caravan in Sweden, 35ft Monohull in the Bahamas, and right now in his self-built Van. He just started the next adventure, to circumnavigate the world on a Catamaran!

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Legendary ability, unbeatable reliability.

Folding and unfolding a Corsair trimaran takes only a minute. With just 4 bolts to remove, it is easily managed by one person, and is normally done while afloat. Simply raise (to fold) or press down (to unfold) the inboard end of one cross beam. It can be done from the safety of the cockpit and only a little force is needed due to the folding system’s carefully balanced geometry, and the movement of the floats being mostly horizontal.

The solid aluminium folding struts have absolute control over the folding motion and prevent flexing or racking. A stainless steel bolt on the inboard end of each beam secures the floats for sailing. Crucially, wingnets remain attached during the folding process – their frictionless fixing allows them to tension themselves appropriately through the folding process. The system is so simple and balanced that Corsair trimarans can even be folded while motoring.

TRAILERING ACROSS CONTINENTS

Corsair Marine trimarans are especially weight-conscious, and sit low on their trailers meaning they have excellent trailering characteristics. They are equally easy to launch, giving you more time on the water, and the ability to expore many more remote cruising grounds or participate in regattas far from home. Some Corsair trimaran models go from trailer to water in 25 minutes, and with practice even the largest boat models can be done in 40 minutes.

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MODEL CONSTRUCTION

FROM CATAMARAN TO TRIMARAN

In my previous article (see “M-K” No. 12-2019 and 1-2020 ) I talked about the experience of building and operating a collapsible planing catamaran of the Craig Cat type. Such a craft can be equipped with a 12-15 hp motor. and a crew of two people go on plane and joyfully move at a speed of 30-35 km/h. One thing is bad: the fuel consumption of such an engine is 6-7 liters per hour. A fishing trip and… the 20-liter can of gasoline is gone! And if the nearest gas station, as happens in the most picturesque places of our big country, is several dozen kilometers away? It is for such a case that a modest four-stroke engine with a power of 4-5 hp usually hangs on the transom of our vessel, the fuel consumption of which does not exceed one to one and a half liters per hour. But you also have to put up with a cruising speed limited to 10-15 km/h. At the same time, the planing catamaran moves in an unfavorable transition mode: flat-bottomed floats raise a high wave and, as yachtsmen say, “drag water along with them.”

MULTIHULLS FROM THE POINT OF VIEW OF HYDRODYNAMICS

Over time, I came to the conclusion that an economical watercraft should be a displacement one, designed for a 5-7 hp motor. and a speed of 15-20 km/h, no more. From the point of view of the theory of a small vessel, this is a transitional regime, when hydrodynamic forces are not yet sufficient to achieve planing, but they are already sufficient for intense wave formation. Science states that in transient mode, wave drag makes up the bulk of the ship’s total resistance and recommends avoiding this mode. The picture of wave formation known from textbooks, the so-called Lord Kelvin wave system, is shown in the figure.

A ship moving at speed V creates two wave systems. Divergent, the envelope of which forms an angle of 19-20° with the ship’s trajectory (theoretically, exactly 19.47°). And transverse ones, the length of which can be calculated using the formula λ = 2πV2/g. The intensity of wave formation is determined by the relative speed of the vessel, called the Froude number F = V/√g 3 √D, where V [m/s] is the speed of the boat, D [t] is its displacement in tons, g = 9.81 m/s. The greatest wave formation is observed during the transitional mode of motion, when the Froude number is in the range from 1 to 3, which corresponds to speeds from 10 to 30 km/h for most small vessels. Thus, we will not be able to avoid movement in the transitional mode.

In shallow water, when the depth of the reservoir is comparable to the size of the vessel, the picture of wave formation is even more interesting. Divergent waves are almost not formed, but transverse waves increase so much that almost all the engine power is spent on their creation.

Are there ways to reduce wave formation? Yes, they exist, but for this, first of all, the ship’s hull must have a large elongation, as they say, “the length runs.” Shipbuilding practice has shown that the optimal elongation, that is, the ratio of the length of the hull to its width, should be in the range from 8 to 12. With greater elongation, the gain from reducing wave drag is largely “eaten up” by the increase in friction resistance. In addition, to reduce wave formation in transitional mode, the contours of the vessel must be quite smooth, and the stern must be streamlined so as not to “drag water.” And since in this mode the stern of the vessel falls directly into the trough of the transverse wave, it needs to be “lifted” by some means, for which you can use a sufficiently large aft section of the flat bottom, transom plates or a hydrofoil. You can also shift the centering forward.

For a multihull vessel, catamaran or trimaran, it is also necessary to take into account the superposition (interference) of waves created by its hulls. Shipbuilding practice has shown that there is no mutual influence of hulls harmful to resistance if the hulls are spaced so widely that diverging waves do not reach the adjacent hull. From the above diagram it follows that for this the distance between the housings must be greater than B = L*tg20° = 0.36L.

Is it possible to build a multihull so that the mutual influence of the hulls is not harmful, but beneficial, so that the waves they create do not amplify, but cancel each other out? In the case of a symmetrical catamaran, this is unrealistic, since the waves created by the hulls will always add up. But for a trimaran this is possible. Take a look at the wave pattern of a trimaran with three identical hulls, the middle of which is pushed forward relative to the other two. It can be seen that with the correct relative position of the bodies, the waves they create will cancel each other out.

This short and simple excursion into hydrodynamics will allow us to approach the construction of multihulls from a scientific point of view.

CATAMARAN ON FLOATS FROM “MEFODIUS”

The coronavirus epidemic and self-isolation at the dacha helped me move from dreams and theoretical reasoning to practical activity. Excess free time greatly promotes technical creativity…

There is a company called Methodius in the Moscow region, whose activities I have been watching with interest for a long time. There, using the rotational molding method, various boats and other watercraft are made from polyethylene, including floats of two sizes, the smaller of which was exactly suitable for my tasks.

One of the advantages of polyethylene boats is the ease of their repair. Polyethylene, as you know, glues very poorly, but it melts at a temperature of only 96 ° C. All damage can be easily repaired using a regular construction hair dryer, which I have tested in practice.

Possible moisture-resistant bridge decking materials

The length of the small polyethylene float from Methodius is 4500 mm, width – 400 mm, height -300 mm. The contours resemble the classic rounded shapes of a kayak, the bow and stern are symmetrical. There are longitudinal and transverse grooves for docking with the catamaran bridge. Float volume (total displacement) -0.28 m3, weight – only 18 kg. The load capacity of the float can be calculated as 0.5 * (280 kg – 18 kg) = 131 kg. Not much, but if you build a bridge correctly, remembering what we were taught at the Moscow Aviation Institute, you can get a good and very light two-seater motor catamaran.

First you need to decide on the sizes. The floats must be spaced as wide as possible: according to our formula, with L = 4500 mm, the distance between the bodies must be at least 1620 mm. However, there is another “introductory” one – the width of the top trunk of a UAZ car is 1500 mm. This means that the bridge will be exactly the same width, and the distance between the floats will have to be chosen the same way. The length of the cross beams can be slightly longer – up to 1800 mm across the overall width of the machine. The length of the bridge is determined from the experience of operating a planing catamaran: for a two-seater vessel, 1700 mm is quite enough.

To facilitate assembly and transportation, it is important that the weight of the assembled bridge does not exceed 25-30 kg. Its design for this should be the simplest: a transverse power beam that carries the entire load, and a light flooring. Bakelized plywood FBS-1 is best suited as a deck material. It is characterized by maximum water resistance, since during its production the veneer is impregnated with phenol-formaldehyde resin (bakelite varnish) before gluing. However, the dimensions of a standard FBS sheet are 2500 x 1250 mm, which does not make it possible to obtain a flooring from one sheet and will require reinforcement and weighting of the joint. For the same reason, and also because of the increased density compared to plywood, fiberglass sheets were rejected. There is another very interesting material on sale – wood-laminated plastic DSP-10 (not to be confused with particle board, which is correctly designated DSTP). This is nothing more than the famous delta wood, from which LaGG-3 fighters were built during the war. I was inclined to choose this particular material, but it turned out that in our “coronavirus” times we have to wait for more than one month for its delivery, which did not suit me at all. All that was left was the limited waterproof FSF plywood. It is also glued together with phenol-formaldehyde resins, but without preliminary impregnation, unfortunately. But it is produced in large sheets of 1500 x 3000 mm.

Amateur shipbuilders recommend using at least 5 mm for the thickness of plywood sheets, so that you can walk on it; I took it with a small margin – 6.5 mm. So, we decided on the material and dimensions of the bridge: FSF plywood, size 1700 x 1500 mm, thickness 6.5 mm.

The cross beam must bear the entire load, including the weight of two people. The best material for lightweight load-bearing structures has been and remains D16T duralumin. The aluminum-magnesium alloy AMg6 is slightly inferior to it in strength. But it welds well and is not subject to corrosion in sea water. While I was thinking about the choice, it turned out that these materials had also become difficult to obtain: regular domestic duralumin profiles can only be purchased to order, and you have to wait until the fall.

For the same reason, it turned out to be impossible to purchase a widely advertised new product – a fiberglass profile. During the “knockdown” period, all manufacturers “downsized” and offer only fiberglass reinforcement, that is, a simple round bar.

We could only rely on what was sold in construction stores near Moscow. But there was only an AD31 aluminum profile. This construction alloy of aluminum with magnesium and silicon is sold under the trade name “avial”, but has nothing to do with aviation. In terms of yield strength, it is more than four times “weaker” than duralumin. Its only advantage is high plasticity.

But in shops and markets, high-quality lumber was sold in abundance – from the strongest larch to the lightest linden. The high price for my small needs – just a few bars and planks – did not matter much.

Thus, limited by the realities of the “pandemic era,” I had to make a mixed structure using a durable larch block and auxiliary parts from “plasticine” aircraft. However, it is very similar that during the difficult years of the war, this is exactly how airplanes were built and nothing happened – they fought off the enemy!

Possible materials for load-bearing structures (standard profiles)

The bridge has a plywood deck, a transverse power beam of mixed construction 1800 mm long and two similar, but lightweight cross-beams: bow and stern. The stern takes the pushing forces and weight of the outboard motor, and the bow is designed to mount a wave breaker, solar panel, auxiliary bow motor bracket or removable canopy, as desired. The wave breaker is made of monolithic polycarbonate 2 mm thick. The flooring is reinforced with four longitudinal linden boards, and the installation site for the outboard motor is reinforced with a 5 mm thick fiberglass slab. Small wheels are installed on the rear traverse for transporting the bridge to the catamaran assembly site. The entire structure is assembled with screws and screws and glued with epoxy glue.

The mass of the assembled bridge was 29 kg. I thought it was too much for me and made the decking and cross beam detachable. Now the catamaran is loaded onto the trunk of the UAZ as follows: first, a deck with bow and stern crossbeams with a total weight of 23 kg is slid over, then a transverse power beam weighing 6 kg is attached to it, and then floats, each weighing 18 kg, are attached to it. Swivel chairs, outboard motor bracket, railing, oars with brackets for them, luggage lockers are used from the previous design (see “M-K” No. 1-2020). The total weight of the assembled catamaran without outboard motor was about 95 kg.

SOLAR CATAMARAN

The photo of the assembled catamaran shows that a 150 W solar panel is installed in the bow of the bridge – this is a gift for my anniversary, as well as a continuation of experiments with electric propulsion, which began with the construction of a homemade boat electric motor and a 300 W power supply for it (see ” M-K” No. 6-2020).

The motor is a 12-volt DC motor from an electric winch mounted on the “leg” of a Soviet Salyut outboard motor. The current source is a power and control unit with a starter-traction marine lead-acid battery with a capacity of 85 A*h and a stepless PWM power consumption regulator. In my free time from “sea duty,” the battery is used on my expedition vehicle as one of two starters.

You can see that the maximum power of a solar battery under ideal lighting conditions is approximately half the maximum power of an electric motor. This was done deliberately: the excess power of the electric motor is needed as a reserve for difficult driving conditions, such as strong crosscurrents or strong winds. In this case, the power deficit is made up by a buffer battery, which can be recharged in the parking lot from the same solar panel or from a gas generator. It is interesting that the designers of environmentally friendly large ships with electric propulsion, which are now becoming fashionable, came to the same conclusion: the maximum power of the propulsion system should be approximately twice the total power of the solar panels.

The mass of the solar panel with a charging controller and fastening elements is 17 kg, the power supply and control unit with a buffer battery is 21 kg, the electric motor itself is about 6 kg, that is, in total, the same as a good boat motor with a power of about 30 hp. Is such weight justified by the ability to cut through expanses of water without gasoline? Let’s check this in practice!

Unfortunately, the same restrictions that stimulated my creativity prevented me from conducting full-fledged tests on a long-distance hike. We had to use the body of water closest to the dacha as a testing ground. But, thanks to such a close location, over the summer I was able to try as many as two variants of multihulls with five different engines afloat and get the positive emotions from the joy of technical creativity necessary to improve immunity.

The first to water was a catamaran with a solar battery and a traction electric motor. The speed at a maximum power of 300 W was 6 km/h, with half a power of 150 watts – about 5 km/h. This is even a little more than the calculated one, which is explained, of course, with excellent hydrodynamics of floats. Testing for the swimming range was not carried out, since the length of the pond did not exceed 200 m. When a rather strong oncoming wind blew, the catamaran with its great sailing was driven into coastal reeds. They managed to get out of them only at the full power of the electric motor, and once again I was convinced that 300 W is a minimally allowable power for confident swimming.

What are the general impressions of the tester and passengers? In the sense of pleasure from silent movement is great! But … no dynamics! At the same speed, the catamaran moves on the oars, and it is very easy on the go, and rowing equally convenient both forward and back: everything is symmetrical. For calm rivers and small forest lakes, this version of the power plant has the right to exist. In addition, we recall that in many interesting reservoirs, such as, for example, Senezhskoye and Pleshcheev of the lake, the use of PLM internal combustion is generally prohibited. You can raise a sail, of course, but for its use it is necessary to be a yachtsman, and this is a separate caste of lovers of rest on the water. I like the motors more.

Having enjoyed plenty of silent and environmentally friendly pokatushki, I dismantled the solar power plant and put a homemade four -stroke engine with a capacity of 4 hp. And he was pleasantly surprised!

Without visible voltage, a very small motor dispelled the ship lightly up to 20 km/h, and with a full load of two people – up to 18 km/h. For comparison, the corresponding speeds on the launching catamaran and a small transubic boat were exceeded 12-15 km/h. Fuel consumption was a little more than 1 l/hour, which corresponds to a waybill of not more than 7 liters per 100 km. A great result is not only for the boat, but even for the car!

My favorite 1.5-horsepower motor with a wheelbuilder was tested (see M-K No. 12-2018). Its main advantage is the ability to move in the smallest and overgrown with aquatic vegetation places where it is difficult to even go on oars. True, the speed with such a power plant did not exceed the same 6 km/h. But even when the floats sat aground, the wheels, resting Plitsy on the ground, continued to push the catamaran forward.

Do the new catamaran revealed shortcomings? Of course, how without them! Firstly, its maneuverability is noticeably worse than that of a single-body boat, which is understandable: the float is quite long, and the application point of the vinting force of the screw is not far from the middle of the vessel. A more significant drawback is limited seaworthiness (although this is impossible to check in the country pond). After all, a vertical clearance at full load is only about 100 mm, and even the wave of the chopper will probably not save from strong spraying. Although for calm reservoirs and even for large rivers this is a completely reliable and easy design that does not require registration and management documents under our laws.

Having received as a whole positive results, experiments with a catamaran at this stage ended, and I moved to the construction of a more complicated, but also more promising crafts – Trimaran. I’ll tell you about him in the next issue of the magazine.

Grigory Dyakonov

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