cat rigged sailboat

Why do Wyliecats have such an unusual rig? Tom Wylie says the idea for the first Wyliecat, a 30-footer (9.1m), originated in 1988 when he and Dave Wahle wondered what sort of boat might address a common problem. “If we could be in five yacht clubs at the same time anywhere in the world, we'd hear sailors talking about about their difficulty in getting crew, what a drag it is to get their boat sailing over lunchtime, and how heavy their jibs are,” says Wylie. By then, composites promised lighter weight and better bending characteristics than older masts, particularly those made of aluminum. Based on reports from reviewers and owners alike, Wyliecats are winners, but says Wylie, “I can't attribute their success to one thing alone.” It's the synchronization of multiple elements that makes it work. (This is an excerpt from Steven Callahan's article Native Son, which appeared in Professional BoatBuilder magazine.)

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How does the Wyliecat rig work? A view of the Wyliecat choker system. The upper lines anchor the booms at the correct vertical height on the mast. The lines running up the mast adjust the wishbone fore and aft, allowing the draft of the sail to be made fuller or flatter.

The only rigging needed to adjust the draft in the sail on a Wyliecat is the "choker" system. This is the rigging system that pulls the wishbone back. When the wishbone is pulled back, the sail is stretched aft and flattened. The carbon mast is also bent back by the choker, which further de-powers and flattens the sail. At the same time the wishbone maintains proper leach control. The amount of sail adjustability with the Wyliecat rig is truly astonishing, and impossible with any other type of rig. It is possible to go from a very deep and powerful low-speed airfoil in light air, to a very flat de-powered blade in heavy air. The carbon fiber mast and wishbone combination make it happen quickly and easily by pulling on only one string, the choker line. The Wyliecat rig is so advanced, it's simple!

Why do Wyliecats have wishbone booms? The wishbone boom works much better than a conventional boom with the Wyliecat's ultra-flexible carbon fiber mast to keep the sail in perfect trim, all the time, allowing better sail control and ease of handling in the process.

The wishbone tensions the sail at an angle, pulling the sail both back and down. This trims the sail more efficiently than the forces applied to a sail with a conventional boom, with the outhaul and vang. The wishbone is also more effective at bending the carbon mast. The only way in which a conventional mast could be similarly bent is with the use of running backstays, which are usually only seen on pure racing boats such as the America's Cup class yachts. The disadvantages of conventional running backstays are numerous. They must be constantly trimmed by an experienced sailor, and if adjusted incorrectly, could cause catastrophic mast failure.

The wishbone boom has one other advantage - it provides an attachment point for the Wyliecat's built-in sail furling solution. Lazyjack lines on the booms neatly catch the sail when it is dropped, greatly reducing the work necessary to put the boat away. Dropping the sail is a one-person job with a Wyliecat!

How does the performance of a Wyliecat compare with a conventionally-rigged sailboat? First off, each Wyliecat model is designed to carry a comparable amount of sail area as a similar conventionally rigged boat. We are able to do this by increasing the dimensions of the luff and leech, and adding roach (since there is no backstay, a considerable amount of roach can be engineered into the rig).

And because the Wyliecat rig is so efficient, the performance is very similar, perhaps even better than a "normal" performance boat of the same size. Sailing magazine says, "...except for really light conditions, they (Wyliecats) can readily match boats with spinnakers and in some cases outrun them."

Another reviewer writes, "The (Wyliecat) 48 can beat a Santa Cruz 50 upwind in 25 knots. The PHRF rating is 15. This boat moves and is very close winded."

Can you really achieve optimum sail shape with such a simple rig? The Wyliecat's built-in sail furling solution. When the main is dropped it is neatly caught in the lazyjack lines attached to the wishbones. Dropping the main becomes an easy one-person job!

Conventional sailboats must have mainsheet travelers, outhauls, boom vangs, and furlers. All this gear has been eliminated on the Wyliecat rig. Mainsheet travelers are unnecessary because you sheet the sail on a Wyliecat more like a genoa than a mainsail (at 8 to 12 degrees off the centerline for upwind sailing). Outhauls and boom vangs are also both unnecessary because the wishbone performs these functions. Furlers are not needed because there is no jib to furl. Wyliecats have built-in mainsail furling as part of the wishbone. When the sail is dropped it automatically flakes itself into the integrated lazyjack system attached to the wishbone booms.

How well do Wyliecat's sail upwind? One of the "old wives tales" you often hear about cat-rigged boats is that they have poor upwind performance. There may in fact be some truth to this reputation with traditional cat-rigged designs from earlier eras. The famous Chesapeake Bay catboat design, for example, had a beamy hull, a massive unfoiled "barn door" rudder, a shallow-draft centerboard, and an inefficient sail and rigging. It's no wonder that its upwind performance was lacking!

The Wyliecat yachts, in contrast, have been designed with state-of-the-art sailing technology. The hull features a fine entry, optimized NACA underwater foils, light displacement, and low-wetted surface. Combine this with the innovative and super-effecient Wyliecat rig, and you have a design that is as fast or faster than any conventionally-rigged performance sailboat in upwind sailing (not to mention other points of sail). A recent Sailing World magazine article noted that "the Wyliecat 48 can beat a Santa Cruz 50 upwind in 25 knots."

Do you need a large crew on the rail to be fast and stable upwind on a Wyliecat (like you do with conventional sailing yachts)? No. All the Wyliecat models are designed with light displacement balsa core hulls and decks and low center of gravity bulb keels, so upwind they carry sail well and are stiff and fast. For example, the Wyliecat 30 weighs 5,500 lbs. and carries a 3,050 lbs. lead bulb keel (a 55% ballast to displacement ratio). This ballast to displacement ratio is usually found only in pure racing boats. With sail plans that can be de-powered quickly and easily, and high ballast to displacement ratios, Wyliecats don't need a lot of human ballast to hold the boat down, and are exceptionally fast and stable sailboats going to weather and on all points of sail.

Can you reef the sail on a Wyliecat rig? Because Wyliecats are so stable and the rigs are so easy to de-power, you very seldom need to reef, even in windy areas such as the San Francisco bay. When reefing does become necessary, the tack and clew reefing lines are led aft into the cockpit for quick, easy handling.

Is a Wyliecat a good boat for day sailing and cruising? Yes. For day sailing with any number of people, or cruising, a Wyliecat is elegantly simple, easy and fast. With no jib to tack you can point the boat wherever you want to go, just trim the mainsheet accordingly. And forward visibility is excellent with no jib to block the view.

How do Wyliecat's do on the race course? Wyliecats are very competitive on the race course! All the models of Wyliecats are fast and lively light displacement designs that feel good on the helm. They are also very rewarding boats to the skipper and crew who know how to adjust the rig for maximum efficiency and performance. Wyliecats are particularly strong in short-handed sailing races (1-2 people). In fact, in the San Francisco Bay Area they have dominated single and double-handed races for over a decade. One example of this dominance is the Wyliecat 30s performance in the Singlehanded Farallones Race (a particularly grueling 58 mile open-ocean race). Wyliecat 30s have won overall for the past three years, and have been first in their division every year since 1998, when no Wyliecat 30s entered the race.

So, unless you're really into crew management (and buying a lot of beer and sandwiches), a Wyliecat just might be the boat for you! Check out the racing record to see a small sample of the winning performance of the Wyliecat.

How is the downwind performance on a Wyliecat without a spinnaker? The Wyliecat rig allows the sail to be trimmed to an extremely full shape for off the wind sailing. With nearly the same sail area as a conventional sailboat's spinnaker and main sail, the Wyliecat is also fast downwind. And whereas flying a spinnaker will require a minimum of three experienced sailors, the Wyliecat can be easily sailed by one person.

With the super-adjustability built into the Wyliecat rig, you can practically turn the sail into a spinnaker. And, with their ample sail area (approximately equal to the sail area of a conventional sloop-rigged sailboat with a full main and a 135% jib), Wyliecats don't need spinnakers to be fast off the wind.

You can also order a Wyliecat with either the standard sail (for areas with high winds) or a larger, light air sail for less windy areas.

How fast is a Wyliecat on a reach? Wyliecats are definitely fast and fun off the wind. With their light displacement they surf easily and can exceed "hull speed". Even when surfing, Wyliecats are easy to control - a well-balanced helm with You'll look forward to windy reaching and running in a Wyliecat. Wyliecats are designed and built to be fast, fun, and easy to sail!

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• Sailboat Reviews

This slightly odd 30-footer, with its wishbone rig and catboat looks, is easily sailed and comfortable.

The Nonsuch 30 is an oddity. She is a fin keeled, spade ruddered boat with an unstayed wishbone cat rig. Weird.

She was built in Canada, whose main boatbuilding export has been C&C sailboats. Come to think of it, all her construction details look very much like those of C&C boats. This isn’t unusual, since George Hinterhoeller, the builder, was formerly the president of C&C, and one of the founders of the three company merger that created C&C Yachts.

When Hinterhoeller left C&C to recreate Hinterhoeller Yachts Ltd., he took with him those characteristics that have given C&C a reputation for quality: good attention to finish detail and high-quality balsa-cored hull construction.

The Nonsuch 30 is the concept of retired ocean racer Gordon Fisher, the design of Mark Ellis, and the created child of Hinterhoeller, who is one of the few production boatbuilders with the legitimate title Master Boatbuilder, earned the hard way through apprenticeship in Europe.

The Nonsuch 30 was originally a Great Lakes phenomenon, which is to be expected considering her origins. She proved quite popular elsewhere, however. This is not surprising considering the amount of boat that has somehow been slipped into an LOA of less than 31′.

Production of the Nonsuch line ceased in 1989.

Construction

George Hinterhoeller’s reputation as a builder is not unearned. His balsa-cored hulls are known for being light and strong. It is probably not an exaggeration to say that he knows as much about cored construction as any boatbuilder around.

Both hull and deck of the Nonsuch 30 are balsa cored. The hull and deck are joined by a through-bolted butyl-bedded joint capped with an aluminum toerail. The butyl tape used for this purpose has no real structural properties, but does create a good watertight seal. A sealant such as 3M 5200 provides equivalent sealant properties with greater structural properties, and we prefer its use in hull-to-deck joints. It is hard to quibble with the Nonsuch’s strongly through-bolted joint, however.

The external lead keel is bolted on with stainless steel bolts. These pass through floor timbers of unidirectional roving, transferring keel loading from the garboard section to a greater area of the hull.

The cockpit seats and coamings contain a surprisingly large number of sharply-radiused turns. Gelcoat cracks are likely to develop here earlier than anywhere else in the hull.

The freestanding mast requires modification of normal construction methods. While no chainplates are required, substantial bulkheading is required in the area of the mast to absorb the considerable forces generated by the unstayed mast. The forward six feet of the hull is strongly bulkheaded for this purpose, and no sign of undue strain could be detected.

Because there is no rigging to hold the mast in the boat should she capsize, alternative means must be found. This is accomplished by lagging a cast aluminum, hexagonally-shaped female mast step to the hull. The butt of the mast is fitted with a hexagonal male counterpart which is strongly joined to the mast step by stainless steel hex-head set screws. The mast is further connected to the hull by a deck-level pin which passes through the mast and the cast aluminum deck collar. Deck hardware is properly backed for load distribution.

There are a few surprising shortcomings. The aluminum rudder quadrant stops have sharp edges which could easily cut into the exhaust line inside the cockpit lockers. This could happen—it had happened on the boat we sailed—if the upper rudder retaining nut is loose, allowing the rudder to drop down slightly. Gate valves are used on most through hull fittings below the waterline, rather than seacocks or ball valves, and no valves at all are fitted on drains and exhaust lines at the bottom of the transom, despite the fact that they could be submerged in a heavily loaded boat.

Despite these deficiencies, construction is generally to very high standards, well above average for the industry.

Handling Under Sail

The Nonsuch 30 is one of the most boring boats we have ever sailed. Tacking requires no yelling, releasing of sheets, cranking, tailing, or trimming. The helmsman simply says “I think we’ll tack” and gives the wheel a quarter turn, being careful not to upset his Mt. Gay and tonic. Nonsuch quietly slides through about 85 degrees and settles on the other tack with a minimum of fuss. Beating up a narrow channel simply requires repeating the above process.

The person who learns to sail on a Nonsuch 30 will receive a rude awakening when switching to a more athletic boat—which means almost any other 30 foot sailboat. The Nonsuch 30 is simply one of the easiest boats to sail we’ve seen.

This doesn’t mean that it’s necessarily easy to sail well. Getting the most out of the boat upwind definitely requires some practice. The aluminum mast is quite flexible, allowing the top of the mast to fall off as the wind increases. The sail’s draft will shift, changing its efficiency. In about 10 knots of breeze, the top of the mast falls to leeward about a foot. This can be a little disconcerting to those used to a fairly rigid stayed mast.

Sail shape is controlled by the “choker,” a line which controls the fore and aft trim of the wishbone and functions as a clew outhaul. Tensioning the choker pulls the wishbone aft, flattening the sail. The sail is slab reefed pretty much the same as a conventional mainsail.

The Nonsuch mainsail is 540 square feet, with a hoist of 45 feet and a foot of 24 feet. By way of comparison the mainsail of the Irwin 52 is 525 square feet, and that of the Cal 31 210 square feet. The sail does not handle like a sail of 540 square feet, fortunately. The wishbone is rigged with permanent lazy jacks which hold the sail as it is dropped.

Furling merely involves putting ties around the neatly cradled sail for the sake of aesthetics. Dousing the main or reefing is easily accomplished by one person, as all of the sail controls lead back to the cockpit.

The Nonsuch does not suffer from “catboat disease”—the tendency to develop monstrous weather helm as the breeze pipes up. She is, rather, remarkably well mannered, with a surprisingly light helm in the light to moderate winds in which we sailed her. Downwind she held course with the wheel brake off and hands off the wheel. Her performance was almost as good upwind at moderate angles of heel.

She is a stiff boat. The flexible mast allows a substantial amount of air to be spilled from the main as the wind pipes up, removing much heeling force. We found that the boat went better upwind with a reef in the main even at moderate angles of heel once the upper mast began to fall off. Getting sail off the more flexible upper part of the mast allows better draft control as the wind increases.

Having only one sail can be a real nail-chewer to the uncured racer. Whether it blows five knots or 25, the maximum amount of sail you can have is already up. Some unreconstructed racers have equipped the Nonsuch 30 with a blooper for light air downwind performance.

The Nonsuch 30 is no Cape Cod catboat under the water. She has a moderate aspect ratio fin keel, low wetted surface, and a freestanding semi-balanced spade rudder. These characteristics greatly add to her performance.

With all sail controls led back to the cockpit, she is a natural candidate for singlehanding. We strongly recommend the optional self-tailing winches for all functions if shorthanded sailing is contemplated.

The Nonsuch 30 is not the boat for the hard-core grand prix racer. Her entire sail inventory consists of that one big sail, with perhaps, but not necessarily, a single downwind sail. You will not become the bosom buddy of any racing sailmaker by owning a Nonsuch. Then again, no sailmaker will ever have a second mortgage on your boat, either.

Handling Under Power

The Nonsuch 30 was originally equipped with a 23 horsepower Volvo MD 11C diesel with saildrive. This basically eliminated engine installation and alignment problems for the builder, saving both time and money.

These units have an integral cast zinc to protect the vulnerable aluminum lower unit from galvanic corrosion. A special Volvo-supplied zinc is required—not an item that you can pick up in any boatyard. About hull number 125, this installation was changed to a more conventional engine and shaft arrangement, utilizing a new 27 horsepower Westerbeke diesel.

Either engine will drive the boat to hull speed. We greatly prefer the conventional engine installation, which is understood and can be worked on by most boatyards. It is less vulnerable to corrosion, and runs quietly and smoothly.

Because of her high freeboard the Nonsuch 30 will be susceptible to crosswinds when docking. With most of her windage forward she will have a tendency to blow bow downwind. A good hand on the throttle and gearshift will be a real plus in tight docking situations. Without the complication of wind we found her easy to back down into a slip once a sharp burst of throttle was given to activate the folding prop with which our test boat was equipped.

Deck Layout

Because the Nonsuch 30 has no standing rigging, her side decks are devoid of obstacles. Because she has no headsails there are no sheeting angles to be concerned with.

For cruising the optional bowsprit/anchor roller with hawsepipe to the otherwise unusable forepeak is highly desirable. Otherwise, anchor and rode must be stored in one of the cockpit lockers and dragged forward every time you wish to anchor. We also recommend the installation of a bow pulpit. With no shrouds to hold when forward there is a great feeling of vulnerability on the bow. These things may make the Nonsuch 30 un-catboatlike in appearance, but they will greatly add to the safety and convenience of both sailing and anchoring.

The cockpit of the Nonsuch 30 is large and deep. It is not particularly comfortable, and without four inch or thicker cockpit cushions it is impossible for a person of average height to see forward over the cabin. The helmsman’s position is elevated above that of the other seats, but visibility even from that position is only fair.

With the standard white-on-white gelcoat scheme the cockpit of the Nonsuch 30 is sterile and generates a lot of glare on sunny days. The optional contrasting nonskid and teak cockpit grate alleviates part of this problem.

The large cockpit creates other problems. First, you should never raft up with other boats at anchor. A friendly crowd of eight could easily fit in the cockpit.

There are more serious problems associated with the cockpit design. The Nonsuch 30 is promoted as a “new offshore concept.” We think this is an unfortunate choice of words, because the standard cockpit is not suited to offshore use. There is no bridgedeck. The companionway goes almost to the level of the cockpit sole—about three feet below the level of the lowest point in the cockpit coamings. Coupled with the huge cockpit volume, this creates a situation that cannot in any good conscience be called an offshore configuration. If this boat is to be called an offshore sailboat, we think there should be an optional cockpit arrangement—a large bridgedeck which could incorporate life raft storage, two more large cockpit drains, and perhaps a raised cockpit sole to further reduce the cockpit’s volume.

There are three cockpit lockers; deep port and starboard lockers, and a lazarette propane locker set up to hold two ten-pound gas bottles. The large side locker should incorporate some form of easily-removed retainer system to prevent items there from rolling under the cockpit.

On the boat we sailed the drain line from the propane locker overboard was too long. At the low point in the loop water had collected in the hose, which exits through the transom and is underwater in many sailing conditions. This water prevents any propane leakage from draining overboard as designed. The hose should be shortened to remedy a potentially hazardous situation.

When tacking or jibing it is easy for the helmsman to get caught by the mainsheet as the boom comes over. A better lead would be welcome here, perhaps having the mainsheet system incorporated into the stern rail.

The interior volume of the Nonsuch 30 is an eye opener, even to those used to the modern trend toward maximum interior volume on minimum overall length. To anyone used only to the interior space of an older boat, the interior of the Nonsuch 30 is absolutely stunning.

The waterline and beam of the Nonsuch 30 are about the same as that of a modern 36 foot cruiser-racer, and that beam is carried quite a bit further forward. Coupled with high topsides and a highly-crowned deck house, this yields a boat with tremendous interior volume for her overall length.

The interior layout is unusual but practical. There is no forward cabin in the conventional sense. This isn’t a real drawback. The forward cabin on the typical 30 footer is only useful for sleeping or sail stowage, and frequently has berths which narrow so much forward that an all-night game of footsie for the occupants is a necessity rather than a pleasure.

The forwardmost six feet of the boat is given over to two huge hanging lockers and a great deal of storage space which has been created by the three transverse and two fore and aft bulkheads that stiffen the hull in the way of the mast. This storage space is not readily accessible, and will probably end up as the boat’s attic, collecting little-used piles of gear until the day when it must be all removed to get at the mast step to remove the mast.

The rest of the boat is basically one large cabin. What would be considered the main cabin occupies the forward third of the interior. At the forward end are the aforementioned hanging lockers and a bureau. There are shelves and bins outboard of the two long settees that face each other at a comfortable distance across the cabin, with a dropleaf table on centerline. Varnished pine ceiling behind the settees is a welcome note in an otherwise dark teak interior.

The galley is to port midships. The cook is out of the traffic flow yet located in the center of activity if there are people both below and topsides. The galley has a gimballed propane stove with oven, a well-insulated icebox with (hurrah!) an insulated, gasketed lid, and a deep sink nearly on centerline which will easily drain on either tack. The icebox melt water is pumped into the galley sink. For the sake of aesthetics the icebox drain should tee into the sink drain below the sink, relieving the cook of the dubious pleasure of watching the things which dribble to the bottom of the icebox flow through the sink.

The head is opposite the galley. Because of the pronounced deckhouse camber, headroom there decreases rapidly as you move outboard.

An unusual option was a demand propane-fired hot water heater. This compact unit mounts on a head bulkhead, and has electric ignition. When a hot water faucet is turned on the heater fires, and will heat steaming hot water as fast as the water pressure system will deliver it. This is much less complicated than the normal engine water heat exchanger/110 volt powered water heaters found on most boats. Since the boat is already plumbed for propane, installation of this heater is straightforward.

There are quarterberths port and starboard aft of the galley and head. The standard berth starboard is a double, with a single to port. An option provides doubles on both sides, although filling all the berths on the boat requires an open mind and no highlydeveloped sense of privacy.

Despite the open interior of the boat, privacy can be attained through another unusual interior option. A hidden slide-up partition can be installed between the galley and the forward/main cabin, and a bifold louvered teak door which folds up against the head bulkhead. When closed, the door and partition divide the boat into two large compartments for sleeping, with reasonable separation between them.

The occupants of the thus-created forward cabin must enter the aft cabin either to go on deck or to use the head, an inconvenience.

Like the cockpit, the huge interior invites company. In the event of a sudden rainstorm, the eight people who previously occupied your cockpit could easily move below to continue their revelry. If there were already eight below—a not unlikely circumstance—you may be in trouble. Sixteen people is too many belowdecks even in the Nonsuch 30.

Ventilation of the interior is excellent, with seven opening ports, two hatches, and two dorade boxes. The propane heater vents overboard through its own exhaust stack.

Conclusions

The Nonsuch 30 is an unusual boat by any standards. The unstayed wishbone cat rig is becoming increasingly popular. It does greatly reduce the cost of sails, spars, and rigging.

The general appearance of the boat is similar to a traditional catboat, although she will never be taken to be a product of the Crosby yard. Her generally catboatlike hull dimensions produce the maximum hull volume on a minimum overall length.

Despite her billing we do not consider her an offshore cruiser with her standard cockpit arrangement. She will make an excellent coastal cruiser for a couple or family with up to three small children or two older children.

Because she is easy to sail and rig, has a big cockpit and a roomy, well-ventilated interior, she should make a good Caribbean charter boat for two couples, although head access is a minor problem from the forward cabin. Surprisingly, none have entered the southern charter business.

The Nonsuch 30 is not a traditionalist’s catboat. She lacks the sweeping sheer, low freeboard, gaff rig, and barndoor rudder of the Cape Cod catboat. She also lacks that boat’s infamous sailing characteristics—ferocious weather helm, inability to go to windward, and a man-killing mainsail.

She is a relatively simple, easily sailed boat for the convivial sailor who doesn’t mind being seen in what many might consider an oddball boat with an oddball interior and an oddball rig, The more you look at it, the less oddball it seems.

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• Sailboat Guide

2003 Com-Pac Sun Cat

• Description

Seller's Description

The Sun Cat is a roomy day sailboat and overnighter that is easily trailered and launched, with a board-up draft of only 14”. The Sun Cat can be single-handedly rigged in minutes thanks to the Mastendr Quick Rig Sailing System. Seller will help with delivery to a buyer in New England.

Equipment: Performance galvanized trailer with good tires (mileage <1000 miles) with spare tire and PVC trailer guides. With the hinged mast with Mastendr quick rig sailing system, the boom, sail, and gaff boom remain installed on the boat while the mast is folded or raised. Hull color is white with tan top. Features include: Bimini top for cockpit, transom boarding ladder, aluminum rudder, teak wood trim, canvas sail cover, canvas boat cover (when boat is on the trailer), fabric cabin bed cushions, weather proof cockpit seat cushions, cabin storage lockers, protected space for outboard motor gasoline containers, boat hook, Danforth anchor & line, covered opening for anchor rode on bow deck, personal floatation devices, 12V outlet, battery, cabin lights and navigation running lights, new anti-fouling bottom paint. The sail is in good condition with a patched area.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

A daysailer model (without the cuddy/cabin) is also available.

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• Yachting Monthly
• Digital edition

How to tension your yacht’s rig with wire or rod rigging

• August 28, 2024

Ivar Dedekam author of Illustrated Sail & Rig Tuning gives his guide on tensioning a yacht's wire or rod rigging

If you want to trim your rig correctly you should have some idea of the tension in the shrouds and stays, either by rules of thumb or a more exact method, such as this. Here, you measure the stretch of the wire as a percentage and then establish the tension as a percentage of the wire or rod’s breaking load.

You can either measure the stretch of all the wire or a part of it, e.g. 2m. Accuracy will improve with the sample length. Begin with a minimum tension in the wire.

Mark off a 2m length of the shroud on one side of the boat using the shroud terminal for reference. Measure the elastic extension (f) of the measured length as the rigging screws are alternately tightened, little by little. Stop when f = 3mm. (4mm on fractional rigs with aft swept spreaders).

Note that stretch of f = 1mm over a sample of 2m of the wire corresponds to 5% of breaking load independent of the wire diameter. For rod, an f = 1mm stretch over 2m corresponds to 7.5% of breaking load. Use a similar method to establish backstay tension. Remember that a different sample length will have a different stretch for the same load. Also remember that the stretch is always measured from hand tight wire/rod (minimum tension).

Mark up the shroud Mark up 2m of shroud using the terminal for reference…

Rod rigging is made of a straight, single strand. Wire rigging is made of many twisted strands. Normally rod rigging is 20% stronger than wire of the same diameter.

Wire has the advantage of an early warning of fatigue when a strand breaks. Fatigue in rod happens without any warning at all. It can be sudden and sometimes catastrophic.

Tensioning cap shrouds

When you have straightened the mast sideways and adjusted the rake, it is time to look at the cap shrouds. Tighten the cap shrouds to approximately 15% of breaking load. This corresponds to a stretch (f) of 3mm over a length of 200cm. On a fractional rig with aft swept spreaders the cap shrouds should be tensioned to 20% of the breaking load. This corresponds to a stretch of f = 4mm.

Measure the stretch…then measure the elastic extension when the rigging has been tightened.

To avoid excessive forestay sag upwind, the cap shrouds should be relatively highly tensioned. If 20% cap shroud tension is not sufficient to keep sag at an acceptable level, increase the tension to 25% of breaking load. Do not exceed this tension.

Slack rigging will produce shock loads that can cause rig failure and may even bring the mast down. Note that you will not be able to overtighten a wire of 40-50cm length with hand tools. The lower shrouds and intermediate shrouds should be quite loose at this stage.

If the mast has distinct bends you should try to straighten them by sight and hand tensioning.

Many yachtsmen intuitively tension their standing rigging and adjust it later when sailing has begun. This may lead to acceptable results but the methods described above, while taking some time, are more certain and reliable.

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