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SAILING YACHT A

SAILING YACHT A is an exceptionally unique 2017 build by Nobiskrug, measuring 142.80m (468'6"ft).

She is the ultimate embodiment of German superyachts built for the 22 nd  century.

Measuring almost 143 m and a gross tonnage of about 12,600 GT, she became one of the most impressive PYC superyachts in the world in terms of design and technology.

She is one of the world’s largest and the most advanced superyachts with unique features such as an underwater observation pod, hybrid diesel-electric propulsion system and state-of- the-art navigation systems. The luxury sailing yacht's three masts are the tallest and most highly loaded freestanding composite structures in the world. The mainmast towers 100 m above the waterline.

The smooth, lustrous silver metallic surfaces and nearly invisible windows give this yacht a futuristic look. World-renowned Philippe Starck created this unconventional design, which challenges the expectations of conventional aesthetics.  Nobiskrug high-tech building  technology made this fascinating design possible.

Steel hull and steel superstructure with high-tech composite fashion plates that can be formed into any shape or size, a technology Nobiskrug has developed during the past 15 years in co-operation with classification societies and special subcontractors.

Thanks to her striking looks and innovative technology SAILING YACHT A was unquestionably the most anticipated delivery of 2017. She definitely changes the upcoming landscape of the Nobiskrug fleet as well as the future of supersail.

“Born from the desire of the owner to push the boundaries of engineering and challenge the status quo of the industry, ‘SAILING YACHT A’ is undoubtedly one of the most visionary projects Nobiskrug has ever been involved in.” Holger Kahl, Nobiskrug Managing Director. 

• Yacht Builder Nobiskrug View profile
• Exterior Designer Philippe Starck No profile available
• Interior Designer Philippe Starck No profile available

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Home » Blog » Buy a boat » 5 best small sailboats for sailing around the world

5 best small sailboats for sailing around the world

By Author Fiona McGlynn

Posted on Last updated: April 19, 2023

A small sailboat can take you big places

Small sailboats are the ticket to going cruising NOW — not when you retire, save up enough money, or find the “perfect” bluewater cruising boat. In fact, it’s the first principle in Lin and Larry Pardey’s cruising philosophy: “Go small, go simple, go now.”

Small yachts can be affordable, simple, and seaworthy . However, you won’t see many of them in today’s cruising grounds. In three years and 13,000 nautical miles of bluewater cruising, I could count the number of under 30-foot sailboats I’ve seen on one hand (all of them were skippered by people in their 20s and 30s).

Today’s anchorages are full of 40, 50, and 60-foot-plus ocean sailboats, but that’s not to say you can’t sail the world in a small sailboat. Just look at Alessandro di Benedetto who in 2010 broke the record for the smallest boat to sail around the world non-stop in his 21-foot Mini 6.5 .

So long as you don’t mind forgoing a few comforts, you can sail around the world on a small budget .

What makes a good blue water sailboat

While you might not think a small sailboat is up to the task of going long distances, some of the best bluewater sailboats are under 40 feet.

However, if you’re thinking about buying a boat for offshore cruising, there are a few things to know about what makes a small boat offshore capable .

Smaller equals slower

Don’t expect to be sailing at high speeds in a pocket cruiser. Smaller displacement monohulls are always going to be slower than larger displacement monohulls (see the video below to learn why smaller boats are slower). Therefore a smaller cruiser is going to take longer on a given passage, making them more vulnerable to changes in weather.

A few feet can make a big difference over a week-long passage. On the last leg of our Pacific Ocean crossing, our 35-foot sailboat narrowly avoid a storm that our buddy boat, a 28-foot sailboat, couldn’t. Our friend was only a knot slower but it meant he had to heave to for a miserable three days.

Small but sturdy

If a pocket cruiser encounters bad weather, they will be less able to outrun or avoid it. For this reason, many of the blue water sailboats in this list are heavily built and designed to take a beating.

Yacht design has changed dramatically over the last 50 years. Today, new boats are designed to be light and fast. The small sailboats in our list are 30-plus year-old designs and were built in a time when weather forecasts were less accurate and harder to come by.

Back in the day, boat were constructed with thicker fiberglass hulls than you see in modern builds. Rigs, keels, rudders, hulls and decks – everything about these small cruising sailboats was designed to stand up to strong winds and big waves. Some of the boats in this post have skeg-hung rudders and most of them are full keel boats.

The pros and cons of pocket cruiser sailboats

Pocket cruiser sailboats present certain advantages and disadvantages.

More affordable

Their smaller size makes them affordable bluewater sailboats. You can often find great deals on pocket cruisers and sometimes you can even get them for free.

You’ll also save money on retrofits and repairs because small cruising sailboats need smaller boat parts (which cost a lot less) . For example, you can get away with smaller sails, ground tackle, winches, and lighter lines than on a bigger boat.

Moorage, haul-outs, and marine services are often billed by foot of boat length . A small sailboat makes traveling the world , far more affordable!

When something major breaks (like an engine) it will be less costly to repair or replace than it would be on a bigger boat.

Less time consuming

Smaller boats tend to have simpler systems which means you’ll spend less time fixing and paying to maintain those systems. For example, most small yachts don’t have showers, watermakers , hot water, and electric anchor windlasses.

On the flip side, you’ll spend more time collecting water (the low-tech way) . On a small sailboat, this means bucket baths, catching fresh water in your sails, and hand-bombing your anchor. Though less convenient, this simplicity can save you years of preparation and saving to go sailing.

Oh, and did I mention that you’ll become a complete water meiser? Conserving water aboard becomes pretty important when you have to blue-jug every drop of it from town back to your boat.

Easier to sail

Lastly, smaller boats can be physically easier to sail , just think of the difference between raising a sail on a 25-foot boat versus a 50-foot boat! You can more easily single-hand or short-hand a small sailboat. For that reason, some of the best solo blue water sailboats are quite petite.

As mentioned above small boats are slow boats and will arrive in port, sometimes days (and even weeks) behind their faster counterparts on long offshore crossings.

Consider this scenario: two boats crossed the Atlantic on a 4,000 nautical mile route. The small boat averaged four miles an hour, while the big boat averaged seven miles an hour. If both started at the same time, the small boat will have completed the crossing two weeks after the larger sailboat!

Less spacious

Living on a boat can be challenging — living on a small sailboat, even more so! Small cruising boats don’t provide much in the way of living space and creature comforts.

Not only will you have to downsize when you move onto a boat  you’ll also have to get pretty creative when it comes to boat storage.

It also makes it more difficult to accommodate crew for long periods which means there are fewer people to share work and night shifts.

If you plan on sailing with your dog , it might put a small boat right out of the question (depending on the size of your four-legged crew member).

Less comfortable

It’s not just the living situation that is less comfortable, the sailing can be pretty uncomfortable too! Pocket cruisers tend to be a far less comfortable ride than larger boats as they are more easily tossed about in big ocean swell.

Here are our 5 favorite small blue water sailboats for sailing around the world

When we sailed across the Pacific these were some of the best small sailboats that we saw. Their owners loved them and we hope you will too!

The boats in this list are under 30 feet. If you’re looking for something slightly larger, you might want to check out our post on the best bluewater sailboats under 40 feet .

Note: Price ranges are based on SailboatListings.com and YachtWorld.com listings for Aug. 2018

Albin Vega 27($7-22K USD)

The Albin Vega has earned a reputation as a bluewater cruiser through adventurous sailors like Matt Rutherford, who in 2012 completed a 309-day solo nonstop circumnavigation of the Americas via Cape Horn and the Northwest Passage (see his story in the documentary Red Dot on the Ocean ). 

• Hull Type: Long fin keel
• Hull Material: GRP (fibreglass)
• Length Overall:27′ 1″ / 8.25m
• Waterline Length:23′ 0″ / 7.01m
• Beam:8′ 1″ / 2.46m
• Draft:3′ 8″ / 1.12m
• Rig Type: Masthead sloop rig
• Displacement:5,070lb / 2,300kg
• Designer:Per Brohall
• Builder:Albin Marine AB (Swed.)
• Year First Built:1965
• Year Last Built:1979
• Number Built:3,450

Cape Dory 28 ($10-32K USD) 

This small cruising sailboat is cute and classic as she is rugged and roomy. With at least one known circumnavigation and plenty of shorter bluewater voyages, the Cape Dory 28 has proven herself offshore capable.

• Hull Type: Full Keel
• Length Overall:28′ 09″ / 8.56m
• Waterline Length:22′ 50″ / 6.86m
• Beam:8’ 11” / 2.72m
• Draft:4’ 3” / 1.32m
• Rig Type:Masthead Sloop
• Displacement:9,300lb / 4,218kg
• Sail Area/Displacement Ratio:52
• Displacement/Length Ratio:49
• Designer: Carl Alberg
• Builder: Cape Dory Yachts (USA)
• Year First Built:1974
• Year Last Built:1988
• Number Built: 388

Dufour 29 ($7-23K)

As small bluewater sailboats go, the Dufour 29 is a lot of boat for your buck. We know of at least one that sailed across the Pacific last year. Designed as a cruiser racer she’s both fun to sail and adventure-ready. Like many Dufour sailboats from this era, she comes equipped with fiberglass molded wine bottle holders. Leave it to the French to think of everything!

• Hull Type: Fin with skeg-hung rudder
• Length Overall:29′ 4″ / 8.94m
• Waterline Length:25′ 1″ / 7.64m
• Beam:9′ 8″ / 2.95m
• Draft:5′ 3″ / 1.60m
• Displacement:7,250lb / 3,289kg
• Designer:Michael Dufour
• Builder:Dufour (France)
• Year First Built:1975
• Year Last Built:1984

Vancouver 28 ($15-34K)

A sensible small boat with a “go-anywhere” attitude, this pocket cruiser was designed with ocean sailors in mind. One of the best cruising sailboats under 40 feet, the Vancouver 28 is great sailing in a small package.

• Hull Type:Full keel with transom hung rudder
• Length Overall: 28′ 0″ / 8.53m
• Waterline Length:22’ 11” / 6.99m
• Beam:8’ 8” / 2.64m
• Draft:4’ 4” / 1.32m
• Rig Type: Cutter rig
• Displacement:8,960lb / 4,064 kg
• Designer: Robert B Harris
• Builder: Pheon Yachts Ltd. /Northshore Yachts Ltd.
• Year First Built:1986
• Last Year Built: 2007
• Number Built: 67

Westsail 28 ($30-35K)

Described in the 1975 marketing as “a hearty little cruiser”, the Westsail 28 was designed for those who were ready to embrace the cruising life. Perfect for a solo sailor or a cozy cruising couple!

• Hull Type: Full keel with transom hung rudder
• Hull Material:GRP (fibreglass)
• Length Overall:28′ 3” / 8.61m
• Waterline Length:23’ 6” / 7.16m
• Beam:9’ 7” / 2.92m
• Displacement:13,500lb / 6,124kg
• Designer: Herb David
• Builder: Westsail Corp. (USA)
• Number Built:78

Feeling inspired? Check out the “go small” philosophy of this 21-year-old who set sail in a CS 27.

Fiona McGlynn is an award-winning boating writer who created Waterborne as a place to learn about living aboard and traveling the world by sailboat. She has written for boating magazines including BoatUS, SAIL, Cruising World, and Good Old Boat. She’s also a contributing editor at Good Old Boat and BoatUS Magazine. In 2017, Fiona and her husband completed a 3-year, 13,000-mile voyage from Vancouver to Mexico to Australia on their 35-foot sailboat.

Saturday 1st of September 2018

Very useful list, but incomplete - as it would necessarily be, considering the number of seaworthy smaller boats that are around.

In particular, you missed/omitted the Westerly "Centaur" and its follow-on model, the "Griffon". 26 feet LOA, bilge-keelers, weighing something over 6000 pounds, usually fitted with a diesel inboard.

OK, these are British designs, and not that common in the US, but still they do exist, they're built like tanks, and it's rumored that at least one Centaur has circumnavigated.

Friday 31st of August 2018

This is a helpful list, thank you. I don't think most people would consider a 28' boat a pocket cruiser, though!

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How A Boat Sails Upwind

By: Zeke Quezada, ASA Learn To Sail , Sailing Tips

 A sailor’s life revolves around the wind. Its direction and its strength govern where he can sail, with what degree of difficulty or comfort, and how quickly. Naturally, the language of sailing reflects how sailors orient themselves and everything around them with reference to the wind.

Upwind and Downwind  

The sailor’s world is roughly divided into two hemispheres: upwind and downwind. anywhere or anything in the direction from which the wind is blowing is upwind; anywhere or anything in the direction toward which it’s blowing is downwind. 

When sailing, you trim the sails according to the wind direction relative to the boat. As you learn to sail, the all-important “points of sail” become second nature. When you are out on the water, you’ll be constantly aware of them as the wind changes and as your course changes. You will continually fine-tune the trim of your sails to suit the degree to which you are sailing upwind or downwind. 

By understanding the points of sail and their implications on crew comfort and sail trim, the helmsman and the crew will be able to work together to move the boat efficiently to any destination they choose. 

Sailing Close-hauled  

You sail close-hauled on the very edge of the no-sail-zone — making your best speed toward a destination to windward. This involves a balancing act between boat speed and your course, or angle to the wind. For most boats, that angle is about 45 degrees to the true-wind direction, but it varies with the design of the boat, the shape of the sails (both their geometry and physical condition), and the strength of the wind. 

If you attempt to sail a course above close-hauled, or closer to the wind, the sails will no longer deliver full power and the boat will slow down. Sailing a course below close-hauled (or footing off), would be faster but, if your destination is upwind, you would not be making as much progress toward it. Close-hauled is that happy confluence of speed and course that brings the boat upwind with maximum efficiency. Many sailors find close-hauled the most enjoyable point of sail. The wind (this is the apparent wind, remember) will feel the strongest in the crews faces, while the boat bounces along merrily over the waves (maybe sending a bit of spray-on deck) heeling more than on any other point of sail. All of this adds to the exhilaration and fun of sailing. 

Start on a beam reach and head up about 45 degrees. Concurrently trim the jib sheet tightly (but not rock hard). Trim the mainsail to the point that its luff just stops bubbling. The boom will lie a little off centerline. experiment with small changes to the trim of both sails — it’s a fine art!

Steering is especially important when sailing close-hauled because with the sails pulled in tight there’s no more to trim in. The driver must be constantly adjusting course to any shifts of wind.

Telltales, short dark yarns or nylon strips streaming on the jib a foot or two back from the luff are an excellent closehauled steering aid.

Except in very light winds, when the boat is barely moving, the helmsman, whether using a tiller or a wheel, should always sit on the windward side for visibility and control. When you’re steering just a little too close to the wind, or pinching, the warning signs are obvious: The jib begins to luff at its leading edge, signaling your entry into the no-sail zone. 

When you steer just slightly lower than your optimum close-hauled course, the sails will look full but you are no longer making your best speed to windward. Get in the groove! Concentrate on steering as close to the wind as possible without causing that small luff in the front of the jib with its associated loss of speed.

So now you’re in the groove, but don’t get too comfortable. You’re trying to get to windward, and there’s only one way to get there and that’s by a series of changes in course.

Tacking — Getting From Zig to Zag and Back  

A sailboat cannot make any forward progress directly into the wind. When you tried to sail too close to the wind, the sails simply flapped and you lost headway. You may even have put the boat in irons. To reach a destination directly upwind, you have to sail a zigzag course. each leg of the zigzag will be approximately 45 degrees away from the direct line between your starting point and your destination. Think of climbing up a mountain on a trail with a series of switchbacks. This means at some point, you have to get from your zig course to your zag course, which is on the other side of the no-sail zone.

Tacking Defined

When you turn the boat so that its bow passes entirely through the wind — that is, through the no-sail zone — that’s called tacking. The word tack gets a bit of a workout here, just as you will when you tack the boat. 

When the boat is sailing with the wind blowing on the starboard side, it’s on starboard tack, and when the wind is blowing on the port side, the moving sailboat is on port tack. To reach a destination directly toward the wind, you have to sail, using the steering skills you just learned, part of the way close-hauled on starboard tack and part of the way close-hauled on port tack. To bring the boat from close-hauled on starboard tack to close-hauled on port tack, you must pass through the no-sail zone — you have to tack. 

Tack, Tacking, And Tacks 

Where do the apparently multiple meanings of “tack” come from? An old-time square sail was supported along its top by a horizontal spar, or yard, and had control lines on the bottom two corners. When sailing closehauled, one of those corners was hauled forward and down, and was therefore the tack of the sail, and the other was hauled aft. If the wind was on the starboard side, the starboard corner was the tack — starboard tack. To go from sailing with the wind on the ship’s starboard side to sailing with it on the port side, the crew had to literally change tacks. 

Of course, we also use the term coming about to mean tacking. 

Sailing Upwind

The ability of a modern sailboat to sail close-hauled, sometimes even closer than 40 degrees to the wind’s direction, is due to the boat’s design and the shape of its sails and the forces they generate.

Lift, Drag, and Leeway  

The net sum of the forces in play (sail, keel, and rudder) is the forward motion we enjoy. the wind blowing over the airfoil-shaped sails creates a forward force in the form of aerodynamic lift arising from the pressure difference between the windward and leeward sides of the sails. It also creates the sideways force that causes heeling and, even when the forces are in balance and the boat is steering “straight,” a small amount of leeway. 

The hull and keel resist motion, both forward and sideways, because of their inherent drag, but once moving forward, the keel, because of the leeway, is at an angle to the water flow. In just the same way as the rudder generates lift when turned, the keel generates an additional forward force from its hydrodynamic lift. 

When the forces are balanced, the boat sails in a straight line but with a few degrees of leeway. however, because of the frequent variations in the wind’s strength and the effect of waves on the hull and keel, this balance is hard to achieve simply with sail trim. the rudder provides the turning force that corrects for changes in the balance. 

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A Guide to the Different Parts of a Sailboat  

Table of Contents

Last Updated on November 29, 2023 by Boatsetter Team

When you use Boatsetter, you have the opportunity to choose from a myriad of different  sailboat rentals  from all over the  United States and beyond . A sailboat is a perfect way to relax on the water, either on a solo adventure or on an excursion with friends and family.

When you rent a sailboat with Boatsetter, you will have the option to book a captained sailboat to enjoy your day out on the water or book bareboat to hone your sailing skills. Either way, you may be interested in the intricacies of a sailboat and its different parts. If this sounds like you, you have come to the right place. In this article, we go in-depth about the different parts of a sailboat so that you can be more knowledgeable about whatever boat you may choose and come away from reading this feeling more confident about the whole sailing experience.

A basic sailboat is composed of at least 12 parts: the hull , the keel , the rudder , the mast, the mainsail, the boom, the kicking strap (boom vang), the topping lift, the jib, the spinnaker, the genoa, the backstay, and the forestay. Read all the way through for the definition of each sailboat part and to know  how they work.

Explore sailboats for rent near you or wherever you want to go

In short, the hull is the watertight body of the ship or boat. There are different types of hulls that a sailboat may have, and these different hulls will often affect the speed and stability of the boat.

Displacement Hulls

Most sailboats have  displacement hulls , like round bottom hulls, which move through the water by pushing water aside and are designed to cut through the water with very little propulsion. The reason these are called displacement hulls is that if you lower the boat into the water, some of the water moves out of the way to adjust for the boat, and if you could weigh the displayed water, you would find that it equals the weight of the boat, and that weight is the boat’s displacement. One thing to know about displacement hulls is that boats with these hulls are usually limited to slower speeds.

Planing Hull

Another type of hull is a planing hull. These hulls are designed to rise and glide on top of the water when enough power is supplied. When there is not enough power behind the boat, these boats often act as displacement hulls, such as when a boat is at rest. However, they climb to the surface of the water as they begin to move faster. Unlike the round bottom displacement hulls, these planing hulls will often have flat or v-shaped bottoms. These are very common with motor-driven water vessels, such as pontoon boats, but they can also be found on smaller sailboats which allow them to glide quickly over the water.

Finally, sailboats can differ depending on the number of hulls that they have. There are three options: monohulls (one hull), catamarans (two hulls), and trimarans (three hulls).

Monohulls , which have only a single hull, will usually be the typical round bottom displacement hull or occasionally the flat bottomed or v-shaped planning hull. Catamarans have two hulls with a deck or a trampoline in between, with the extra hulls providing increased stability. Finally, trimarans have three hulls — a main hull in the middle and two side hulls used for stability. These trimarans have gained popularity because of their excellent stability and ability to go at high speeds.

When evaluating a sailboat , it is important to pay attention to the type of hull that the boat has because the type of hull a sailboat has can drastically change the sailing experience, especially when it comes to stability and speed.

All sailboats have a keel, a flat blade sticking down into the water from the sailboat’s hull bottom. It has several functions: it provides counterbalance, life, controls sideways movement, holds the boat’s ballast , and helps prevent the boat from capsizing. When a boat leans from one side to the other, the keel and its ballast counteract the movement and prevent the boat from completely tipping over.

As with hulls, there are a number of different types of keels, though the two most common types of keels on recreational sailboats are the full keel or the fin keel. A full keel is larger than a fin keel and is much more stable. The full keel is generally half or more of the length of the sailboat. However, it is much slower than the fin keel. A fin keel, which is smaller than the full keel, offers less water resistance and therefore affords higher speeds.

A more recent feature on sailboats is the “winged keel,” which is short and shallow but carries a lot of weight in two “wings” that run sideways from the keel’s main part. Another more recent invention in sailing is the concept of the canting keels, which are designed to move the weight at the bottom of the sailboat to the upwind side. This invention allows the boat to carry more sails.

The Rudder 

A rudder is the primary control surface used to steer a sailboat. A rudder is a vertical blade that is either attached to the flat surface of the boat’s stern (the back of the boat) or under the boat. The rudder works by deflecting water flow. When the person steering the boat turns the rudder, the water strikes it with increased force on one side and decreased force on the other, turning the boat in the direction of lower pressure.

On most smaller sailboats, the helmsman — the person steering the boat — uses a “ tiller ” to turn the rudder. The “tiller” is a stick made of wood or some type of metal attached to the top of the rudder. However, larger boats will generally use a wheel to steer the rudder since it provides greater leverage for turning the rudder, necessary for larger boats’ weight and water resistance.

The mast of a sailboat is a tall vertical pole that supports the sails. Larger ships often have multiple masts. The different types of masts are as follows:

(1)  The Foremast  — This is the first mast near the bow (front) of the boat, and it is the mast that is before the mainmast.

(2)  The Mainmast  — This is the tallest mast, usually located near the ship’s center.

(3)  The Mizzen mast —  This is the third mast closest to the stern (back), immediately in the back of the mainmast. It is always shorter than the mainmast and is typically shorter than the foremast.

The Main Sail

The mainsail is the principal sail on a sailboat, and it is set on the backside of the mainmast. It is the main source that propels the boat windward.

A boom is a spar (a pole made of wood or some other type of lightweight metal) along the bottom of a fore-and-aft rigged sail, which greatly improves the control of the angle and the shape of the sail, making it an indispensable tool for the navigation of the boat by controlling the sailes. The boom’s primary action is to keep the foot (bottom) of the sail flatter when the sail angle is away from the centerline of the sailboat.

The Kicking Strap (Boom Vang)

The boom vang is the line or piston system on a sailboat used to exert a downward force on the boom, enabling one to control the sail’s shape. The vang typically runs from the base of the mast to a point about a third of the way out the boom. It holds the boom down, enabling it to flatten the mainsail.

The Topping Lift

The topping lift is a line that is a part of the rigging on a sailboat, which applies an upward force on a spar (a pole) or a boom. Topping lifts are also used to hold a boom up when it’s sail is lowered. This line runs from the free end of the boom forward to the top of the mast. The line may run over a block at the top of the mast and down the deck to allow it to be adjusted.

A jib is a triangular staysail set ahead of the foremost mast of a sailboat. Its tack is fixed to the bowsprit, the bow, or the deck between the bowsprit and the foremost mast. Jibs and spinnakers are the two main types of headsails on modern boats.

The Spinnaker

A spinnaker is a type of sail designed specifically for sailing off the wind from a reaching downwind course. The spinnaker fills up with wind and balloons out in front of the sailboat when it is deployed. This maneuver is called “flying.” The spinnaker is constructed of very lightweight material, such a nylon fabric and on many sailing vessels, it is very brightly colored.

Another name for the spinnaker is the “chute” because it often resembles a parachute, both in the material it is constructed from and its appearance when it is full of wind.

People often use the term genoa and jib as if they were the same thing, but there is a marked difference between these two types of sails. A job is no larger than a foretriangle, the triangular area formed by the mast, the deck or bowsprit, and the forestay. On the other hand, a genoa is larger than the jib, with part of the sail going past the mast and overlapping the mainsail. These two sails, however, serve very similar purposes.

The Backstay

The backstay is a standing rigging that runs from the mast to the transom (the vertical section at the back of the boat), counteracting the forestay and the jib. The backstay is an important sail trip, control and directly affects the mainsail’s shape and the headsail.

There are two general categories of backstays:

1) A permanent backstay is attached to the top of the mast and may or may not be readily adjustable.

2) A running backstay is attached about two-thirds up the mast and sometimes at multiple locations along the mast. Most modern sailboats will have a permanent backstay, and some will have permanent backstays combined with a running backstay.

The Forestay

A forestay is a piece of standing rigging that keeps the mast from falling backward. It is attached at the very top of the mast, or at certain points near the top of the mast, with the other end of the forestay being attached to the bow (the front of the boat). Often a sail, such as a jib or a genoa, is attached to the forestay.

A forestay might be made from stainless steel wire, stainless steel rod or carbon rod, or galvanized wire or natural fibers.

Parts of a sail

Sails are vital for sailboats, made up of complex parts that improve performance and maneuverability. In this section, we’ll  take a closer look at the different parts of that make up the sails. 

Luff – The luff is a vertical sail part that maintains its shape and generates lift by interacting with the wind. It attaches securely with a bolt rope or luff tape for easy hoisting.

Leech – The leech controls air flow and reduces turbulence. Battens or leech lines are used to maintain shape and prevent fluttering.

Foot – The foot of a sail connects the luff and leech at the bottom edge. It helps define the sail’s shape and area. The outhaul is used to adjust its tension and shape.

Head – The sail’s head is where the luff and leech meet. It has a reinforced section for attaching the halyard to raise the sail.

Battens -The b attens are placed horizontally in sail pockets to maintain shape and optimize performance in varying wind conditions. They provide structural support from luff to leech.

Telltales – Sailors use telltales to adjust sail trim and ensure optimal performance.

Clew – The clew is important for shaping the sail and connecting the sheet, which regulates the angle and tension, producing energy. It’s located at the lower back corner of the sail.

Sailing is a favorite pastime for millions of Americans across the country. For some, there is nothing better than gliding across the water propelled by nothing more than the natural force of the wind alone. For both experienced and non-experienced sailors alike, Boatsetter is the perfect place to get your ideal sailboat rental from the mouthwatering Florida keys to the  crystal blue waters of the Caribbean .

Smaller sailing boats are perfect for a single day out on the water, either by yourself or with friends and family. In comparison, larger sailing boats and sailing yachts can allow you days of luxury on longer excursions full of adventure and luxury.

Whatever your sailing dreams are, it is always good to know, for both the experienced sailor and the novice, all about the sailboat’s different parts. In this article, we learned all about the boat’s hull, the keel, the rudder, the mast, the mainsail, the boom, the kicking strap (boom vang), the topping lift, the jib, the spinnaker, the genoa, the backstay, and the forestay, which make up the basic parts of any sailboat you might find yourself on.

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• Setting sail: A beginner's guide to sailing a yacht

Sailing a yacht, with its billowing sails and the gentle sound of water against the hull, is an enchanting experience that beckons adventurers and dreamers alike. Whether you've always been drawn to the allure of the open waters or you simply seek a new and exhilarating hobby, setting sail on a yacht is an extraordinary journey that awaits you.

The allure of sailing

There's something truly captivating about sailing on a boat, where the wind becomes your guide and the vast expanse of the ocean becomes your playground. The sense of freedom and connection with nature is unparalleled as you navigate the waters, leaving behind the noise and haste of everyday life.

Preparing to sail

Before embarking on your sailing adventure, it's essential to make necessary preparations. Learn about weather conditions, tides, and navigational charts to ensure a safe and enjoyable voyage. Familiarize yourself with the yacht's equipment, safety protocols, and communication systems.

Understanding the basics of sailing

For beginners, learning the fundamentals of sailboat handling and terminology is crucial. Discover the various parts of a sailboat, such as the mast, rigging, sails, and rudder, and understand how they work together to catch the wind and propel you forward.

Read our top notch articles on topics such as sailing, sailing tips and destinations in our  Magazine.  

Steer with confidence: How to sail a yacht

Mastering the art of steering a yacht is both empowering and rewarding. Learn the techniques to control the sails, adjust the angle, and harness the wind's power to navigate your vessel smoothly and efficiently.

Hoist the sails: Sailing techniques for beginners

As a novice sailor, it's essential to explore different sailing techniques. Learn how to tack and jibe, sail upwind and downwind, and handle different wind conditions. Practice basic maneuvers until they become second nature, building your confidence on the water.

Navigating the waters: Where to sail

The world's oceans and waterways offer a vast array of sailing destinations. Discover scenic coastlines, picturesque islands, and hidden coves as you plan your sailing routes. Research the best sailing locations that suit your skill level and preferences.

Yacht at sea.

Safety first: Sailing precautions and best practices

Safety should always be a top priority when sailing a yacht. Familiarize yourself with life-saving equipment, emergency procedures, and safety checks before each voyage. Understand how to respond to unexpected challenges and ensure the well-being of yourself and your crew.

Weathering the storm: Dealing with challenging conditions

Mother Nature can be unpredictable, and weather conditions can change rapidly at sea. Learn how to interpret weather forecasts and respond to adverse conditions. Having the knowledge and preparedness to navigate through challenging weather ensures a safe and successful sailing trip.

Sailing gear and equipment: The essentials for your voyage

Investing in quality sailing gear and equipment enhances your comfort and safety on board. From life jackets and harnesses to navigational tools and communication devices, having the right gear ensures a smooth and enjoyable journey.

A smooth sail: Troubleshooting and problem solving

In the world of sailing, unexpected challenges may arise. Knowing how to troubleshoot common issues, such as tangled rigging or minor equipment malfunctions, empowers you to handle situations effectively and continue your voyage with confidence.

So you want to get into sailing?

If you're drawn to the world of sailing but don't know where to begin, seek out sailing schools, clubs, and organizations that offer introductory courses and sailing experiences. Engaging with the sailing community provides invaluable guidance and support as you embark on your sailing journey.

Making sailing accessible: Sailing schools and training

Sailing schools offer structured courses led by experienced instructors, providing you with hands-on learning and a comprehensive understanding of sailing techniques. Consider enrolling in a sailing course to acquire the skills and knowledge needed to sail with confidence.

Sailing community: Building connections and finding support

Joining a sailing community opens up a world of camaraderie and shared experiences. Connect with fellow sailors, participate in sailing events and regattas, and exchange tips and stories with like-minded individuals who share your passion for the sea.

The joy of sailing: An sdventure like no other

As you set sail and immerse yourself in the world of yachting, you'll discover the true joy of sailing. The sense of accomplishment, the thrill of mastering the winds, and the breathtaking vistas of the open sea create memories that will last a lifetime.

So what are you waiting for? Take a look at our range of charter boats and head to some of our favourite sailing destinations .

Faqs about sailing.

What are the common sailing terms I should know?

Brush up on basic sailing terms like port, starboard, bow, stern, tacking, jibing, and points of sail.

Can I sail a yacht alone or do I need a crew?

While experienced sailors may sail solo, it's advisable for beginners to have a small crew for safety and assistance.

Is sailing a yacht physically demanding?

Sailing can require some physical effort, but modern yachts and equipment make it accessible to people of various fitness levels.

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How to Sail a Boat

Last Updated: May 13, 2022 Approved

This article was co-authored by Nitzan Levy . Captain Nitzan Levy is a Sailor, Social Entrepreneur, and the Founder of Sailors NYC, a recreational sailors’ club based in Jersey City, New Jersey that specializes in cruising boats and a variety of community programs. Capt. Levy has over 20 years of sailing experience and has sailed in many places around the world including: the Atlantic Ocean, the Mediterranean Sea, The Caribbean, and the Indian Ocean. Capt. Levy is a U.S. Coast Guard Licensed Master of vessels up to 50 Tons with Auxiliary Sail and Assistance Towing Endorsements. Capt. Levy is also a NauticEd Level V Captain Rank Chief Instructor, an American National Standards Assessor, an SLC instructor, an ASA (American Sailing Association) Certified Instructor Bareboat Chartering, and an Israeli licensed skipper on Boats for International Voyages. There are 9 references cited in this article, which can be found at the bottom of the page. wikiHow marks an article as reader-approved once it receives enough positive feedback. This article received 25 testimonials and 92% of readers who voted found it helpful, earning it our reader-approved status. This article has been viewed 977,781 times.

For centuries, the sea has captured the spirits of sailors and adventurers all over the world. In his poem "Sea Fever", John Masefield claimed that all he needed was "a tall ship and a star to steer her by" to feel complete. Breaking into the sailing world can be challenging, but this article will help guide you through the ebb and flood of the nautical world. As a note, this article will help get you started, but it cannot be overstated that before you begin, have an experienced sailor show you the standing and running rigging on your boat and their functions before you venture out on the water on your own.

Gaining a Basic Knowledge of Sailing

• Block: This is the nautical term for a pulley.
• Boom: The horizontal support for the foot of the mainsail which extends aft of the mast. This is what you want to watch out for when changing directions in a sailboat. It can give you quite a wallop on the head if it hits you.
• Bow: This is what the front of the boat is called.
• Centerboard: This is a (usually fiberglass) plate that pivots from the bottom of the keel in some boats and is used to balance the boat when under sail.
• Cleat: Cleats are what lines (or ropes) get fastened to when they need to be kept tight.
• Halyard: Lines that raise or lower the sails. (Along with the sheets, aka running rigging.)
• Hull: The hull is the body of the boat and consists of everything below the deck.
• Jib: This is the sail at the bow of the boat. The jib helps propel the boat forward.
• Genoa: A foresail which is larger than a jib.
• Keel: The keel is what prevents a boat from sliding sideways ("making leeway") in whatever way the wind is blowing and stabilizes the boat.
• Line: Lines are ropes. They are everywhere on boats. There is only one "rope" on a sailboat, the bolt rope which runs along the foot of the mainsail.
• Mainsail: As the name implies, this is the mainsail of the boat. It is the sail attached to the back of the mast.
• Mast: The mast is a large, vertical pole that holds the sails up. Some boats have more than one mast.
• Painter: This is a line positioned at the front of small boats. It is used to tie the boat to a dock or another boat.
• Rudder: The rudder is how the boat is steered. It is movable so that when you turn the wheel or tiller, the rudder directs the boat in the direction you would like the boat to go.
• Sheets: The lines that control the sails. (aka running rigging.)
• Spinnaker: The usually brightly colored sail used when sailing downwind or across the wind.
• Stays and Shrouds: Some wires make sure the mast stays upright, even in very heavy winds. (aka standing rigging.)
• Stern: This is the term for the back of the boat.
• Tiller: The tiller is a stick attached to the rudder and is used to control the rudder.
• Transom: This is what we would call the butt of the boat. It is the back part of the boat that is perpendicular to its centerline.
• Wheel: The wheel works the rudder, steering the boat.
• Winch: Winches help tighten the sheets and halyards. When these lines are wrapped around a winch (in a clockwise direction), a sailor can turn the winch with a winch handle, providing mechanical advantage which makes it easier to bring in the lines.

• Sloop : Sloops are the most common type of sailboat (when you think of a sailboat this is probably the one you picture in your mind.) It has a single mast and is rigged up with a jib in the front and a mainsail attached to the back of the mast. They can range in size and are ideal for sailing upwind.
• Catboat : A Catboat has a mast set up near the front of the boat and is a single-sail boat. They are small (or large, for that matter) and easily operated by one or two people.
• Cutter : Cutters have one mast with two sails in the front and a mainsail on the back of the mast. These boats are meant for small crews or groups of people and can be handled relatively easily.
• Ketch : A Ketch has two masts, with the second mast called the mizzen mast. The mizzen is shorter than the mainmast and is in front of the rudder.
• Yawl : Yawls are similar to ketches with the difference being that their mizzen masts are located behind the rudder. The reason for this placement is that the mizzen on yawls is for keeping balance, rather than for moving the boat forward.
• Schooner : Schooners are large sailboats with two or more masts. The mast in the back of the boat is either taller or equal in height to the mast at the front of the ship. Schooners have been used to commercially fish, transport goods and as warships.

• Port: When you are facing the bow (the front of the boat) the side to your left is the port side.
• Starboard: Starboard is the right side of the boat when facing the bow.
• Windward: As the name might imply, windward is the direction from which the wind is blowing, upwind.
• Leeward: This is also called ‘Lee’. This is the direction to which the wind is blowing, downwind.
• Tacking: Tacking is when you turn the bow of the boat through the wind so that the wind switches from one side of the boat to the other. This is when you most need to be mindful of the boom, as the boom will swing from one side of the boat to the other when you tack (you don’t want to be in its way when it does that.)
• Gybing (Jibing): This is the opposite of tacking, which means that it is when you turn the stern (or back) of the boat through the wind so that wind shifts to the other side of the boat. This is a more dangerous maneuver in a strong breeze than tacking since the boat's sails are always fully powered by the wind, and may react violently to the change in the orientation of the boat to the wind. Care must be exercised to control the boom during this maneuver as serious injury is a possibility if the boom travels across the cockpit uncontrolled.
• Luffing: This is when the sails begin to flap and lose drive caused by steering the boat into wind or easing (loosening) sheets.

Preparing The Boat

• Check the lines ( running rigging ) that raise and control the sails ( halyards and sheets respectively). Make sure that they are separated, not wrapped around each other or fouled on anything else, and that they all have a figure-eight knot or other stopper knot on the free ( bitter ) end so they cannot pull through the mast or sheaves.
• Pull all lines out of their cleats and off their winches. There should be nothing binding any line; all should be free to move and be clear at this point.
• If you have a topping lift—a small line that holds the back of the boom up and out of the way when the sail isn't in use—let it out until the boom sags downward freely, then re-tie or re-cleat it. Watch out for the boom; it's just swinging around at this point; it will cause a painful "clunk" if it happens to hit you or your crew. The boom will return to its normal, horizontal position when you hoist the mainsail completely.
• If so equipped, be sure that the tiller is properly attached to and controls the rudder. Your sailboat is now prepared for you to hoist the sails!

• If your boat doesn't have a windex, tie a couple of nine-inch pieces of old cassette tape, VHS tape, or oiled yarn to the shrouds—the rigging cables that hold up the mast. Place them on each side, about four feet up from the sides of the boat. These will show you from which direction the wind is blowing, although some sailors find cassette tape to be just too sensitive for this purpose.

• If your boat has a motor, use the motor to keep the boat pointed into the wind while you hoist sail.
• Here's a handy tip: if the water is not deep at your dock, or if you have no side pier, walk the boat out away from the dock and anchor it into the sand, and the boat will automatically point itself into the direction of the wind!

Hoisting The Sails

• There will be a small line ( outhaul ) attaching the rear corner of the mainsail ( clew ) to the end of the boom. Pull it so the foot of the main is taut, and cleat. This helps the mainsail have a smooth shape for the air flowing over it.
• Hoist the mainsail by pulling down on its halyard until it stops. It will be flapping around ( luffing ) like crazy, but that's OK for a short period of time. (Excessive luffing will drastically reduce the life and durability of the sail).
• The leading edge of the sail ( luff ) must be tight enough to remove folds, but not so tight as to create vertical creases in the sail.
• There will be a cleat in the vicinity of the halyard where it comes down from the top of the mast. Cleat the halyard. Using the jib halyard, raise the front sail ( jib , genoa or simply the headsail ), and cleat the halyard off. Both sails will be luffing freely now. Sails are always raised mainsail first, then the jib, because it's easier to point the boat into the wind using the main.

• Turn the boat to the left ( port ) or right ( starboard ) so it's about 90 degrees off the wind. This is known as a beam reach .
• Pull on the main sheet ( trimming ) until the sail is around 45 degrees away from straight back ( aft ). This is a safe place for the main while you trim the jib.
• You will start moving and tilting ( heeling ) away from the wind. A heel of more than 20 degrees usually indicates that you're being overpowered. Releasing the mainsheet momentarily ( breaking the main ) will lessen the amount of heel, and you will return to a more comfortable sailing angle of 10 to 15 degrees.

• The jib will form a curve or pocket; trim the sail until the front edge just stops luffing. Keep your hand on the tiller (or helm ) and stay on course!

• If you or the wind hasn't changed direction, this is the most efficient place to set the sails. If anything changes, you have to adjust them in response.
• You have just entered the world of the sailor, and you will have to learn to do many things at once, or suffer the consequences.

Sailing Your Boat

• When the wind is at your back and side ( aft quarter ), it's called a broad reach . This is the most efficient point of sail as both sails are full of wind and pushing the boat at full force.
• When the wind is at your back, you are running with the wind . This is not as efficient as reaching, because air moving over the sail generates lift and more force than just the wind pushing the boat.
• When running with the wind, you can pull the jib over to the other side of the boat where it will fill. This is called wing-on-wing , and you have to maintain a steady hand on the tiller to keep this sail configuration. Some boats have a "whisker pole" which attaches to the front of the mast and the clew of the jib which makes the jib much easier to control and keep full of wind. Be sure to be vigilant of obstacles and other vessels, as having both sails in front of you blocks a significant portion of your view.
• Be careful —when the boat is running, the sails will be way off to the side, and because the wind is basically behind you the boom can change sides suddenly ( jibe or gybe ), coming across the cockpit with quite a bit of force.
• If you have a wind direction indicator at the top of your mast, do not sail downwind (run) so that the wind indicator points toward the mainsail. If it does, you are sailing with the boom on the windward side ( sailing by the lee ) and are at high risk of an accidental jibe. When this happens the boom can hit you with enough force to knock you unconscious and out of the boat ( overboard ).
• It's a good practice to rig a preventer (a line from the boom to the toe rail or any available cleat) to limit the travel of the boom across the cockpit in case of an accidental gybe.

• On most sailboats this will be about 45 degrees from the wind direction.
• When you've gone as far as you can on this tack, turn the boat through the wind (or changing direction by tacking ), releasing the jib sheet out of its cleat or off the winch drum as the front of the boat ( bow ) turns through the wind.
• The main and boom will come across the boat. The mainsail will self-set on the other side, but you will have to quickly pull in the jib sheet on the now downwind side to its cleat or winch, while steering the boat so the mainsail fills and begins to draw again.
• If you do this correctly, the boat won't slow down much and you will be sailing to windward in the other direction. If you're too slow tightening the jibsheet again and the boat bears off the wind too much, don't panic. The boat will be pushed sideways a little until it gains speed.
• Another scenario would be to fail to put the bow of your boat through the wind quickly enough and the boat comes to a complete stop. This is known as being in irons , which is embarrassing, but every sailor has experienced it, whether or not they'll admit it is another story. Being in irons is easily remedied: when the boat is blown backwards you will be able to steer, and as the bow is pushed off the wind you will achieve an appropriate angle to the wind to sail.
• Point the tiller in the direction you wish to go and tighten the jib sheet to windward, ( backwinding the sail ). The wind will push the bow through the wind. Once you've completed your tack, release the sheet from the winch on the windward side and pull in the sheet to leeward and you'll be on your way again.
• Because speed is so easily lost when tacking, you'll want to perform this maneuver as smoothly and quickly as possible. Keep tacking back and forth until you get to your destination.

• Reefing almost always needs to be done before you think you need to!
• It's also a good idea to practice capsize procedures on a calm day too. Knowing how to right your boat is a necessary skill.

Storing the Sails

Community Q&A

• Try learning to determine the wind direction using your ears. Let the wind blow onto your back, then slowly turn your head left to right and back until you feel it "equalize" over your ears. Once you find that point, you now know the wind direction, and using this method, you can understand the wind more without having to use your eyes. [7] X Research source Thanks Helpful 2 Not Helpful 0
• Know how to read clouds and the weather they may bring. [8] X Research source Thanks Helpful 2 Not Helpful 2
• If something bad happens—too much wind, man overboard, etc.—remember that you can bring the whole thing to a halt simply by pulling all three sheets out of their cleats or off their winches. The boat will (mostly) stop. Thanks Helpful 3 Not Helpful 0

• Going overboard is a serious matter, especially if you are alone. Cold water, currents, and other boats all can account for serious dangers, and if the sails are up, the boat will take off much faster than you might expect. Additionally, many boats float so high on the water ( freeboard ) that it is difficult to climb in or haul people in without assistance. When sailing at night, always wear a shoulder-mounted flashlight and strobe emergency signaling device, which makes it much easier for a SAR (Search And Rescue) crew to spot you in the water. Thanks Helpful 36 Not Helpful 4
• In sailing, your very life may depend on doing things before they need to be done, when they first cross your mind. If you wait until it needs to be done, it may be too late or very difficult. Follow your instincts. Thanks Helpful 30 Not Helpful 5
• Remember the old maxim "It's better to be on the dock, wishing you were on the lake, than to be on the lake, wishing you were on the dock". Don't let enthusiasm overcome your good judgement on a day you should not go out. The apparent wind while tied alongside at the dock may be very different out on the water. Many novices (and experienced sailors, for that matter) get into trouble venturing out when there is too much wind to sail safely. Thanks Helpful 4 Not Helpful 0
• It is highly recommended that you at least have working knowledge of the nomenclature of the boat and have done some reading of in-depth material before attempting this sport yourself. Some highly recommended reads are: The Complete Idiot's Guide to Sailing , Sailing for Dummies , and Sailing the Annapolis Way by Captain Ernie Barta. Thanks Helpful 2 Not Helpful 1
• Know how how to use VHF radio to make a Mayday call from a Marine Vessel . In an emergency, it is usually the quickest way to summon help. Cell phones may be used, but VHF will be able to contact a nearby vessel much more quickly should you need assistance or be able to render same. [9] X Research source Thanks Helpful 2 Not Helpful 0

Things You'll Need

• A life vest (Personal Flotation Device) is mandatory on all boats for all passengers. (A pealess whistle attached to the PFD is an excellent idea!) You should wear one at all times. If you have children with you, they should wear one even when you are at the dock.
• Every vessel, regardless of length is required to have a certain amount of safety gear aboard. This ranges from an anchor with sufficient rode, flares, and other equipment as may be mandated by the Government. These regulations are for your safety and should be adhered to.

You Might Also Like

• ↑ http://www.lovesailing.net/sailing-theory/sailing-basics/parts-of-a-boat/parts-of-a-boat.php
• ↑ https://www.boats.com/resources/sailing-101-sailboat-types-rigs-and-definitions/
• ↑ http://www.discoverboating.com/resources/article.aspx?id=243
• ↑ https://www.uscgboating.org/images/486.PDF
• ↑ https://www.cruisingworld.com/learn-to-sail-101#page-2
• ↑ https://www.discoverboating.com/resources/how-does-a-boat-sail-upwind
• ↑ https://www.dummies.com/sports/sailing/finding-the-winds-direction/
• ↑ https://weather.com/news/news/read-clouds-meteorologist-20130826
• ↑ https://www.boatus.org/marine-communications/basics/

About This Article

To sail a boat, start by performing a detailed visual check of the cables and ropes that support the mast. Next, determine the wind direction by referring to the wind direction indicator at the top of the mast, then point the boat into the wind. Secure the bottom front of the mainsail and jib to the shackles on the boom and bow of the boat, then trim the jib sheets and mainsail before letting out the main sheet! For tips on monitoring wind indicators, read on! Did this summary help you? Yes No

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Exclusive: pushing the boundaries of technology, Sailing Yacht A

Andrey Melnichenko is a man with exceptional vision. Where other yacht owners like to blend into the background, he wants his superyachts to push the boundaries of design, creativity and technology as well as make a statement. His first superyacht, Motor Yacht A , rocked the superyacht world with its radical design and now he’s done it again.

With an insatiable appetite to drive change he has put together a highly skilled team to build his new creation, currently under construction in Germany. Boat International was given exclusive access to the yacht, and we can reveal for the first time its name, Sailing Yacht A , and that this huge new project is a “sail-assisted motor yacht”.

This is the second yacht in Melnichenko’s portfolio. His first, Motor Yacht A , split opinion, but today stands as one of the most talked about and recognisable yachts in the world. But Sailing Yacht A is a much bolder move and Melnichenko has raised the stakes even higher with a radically designed yacht that introduces new technologies and techniques never before used in the shipbuilding industry. He also broke down barriers by creating his own project team to undertake the build from start to finish. Sailing Yacht A is a monument to invention.

Philippe Starck , who created Motor Yacht A , and from there went on to design Venus for the late Steve Jobs, is working once again for Andrey and Aleksandra Melnichenko on the project. “I am honoured and happy to bring to life the owner’s dream of what will be the summit of high technology and poetry,” says Starck.

Sailing Yacht A is a unique story that began as far back as 2008 when eight of the world’s leading designers were invited to submit their ideas for a huge project – the creation of one of the world’s biggest sail-assisted private yachts. Initially, French designer Jacques Garcia was chosen for his designs, but later there were concerns about the progress of design development, and the owner decided on a change of direction.

Sailing Yacht A is slated for delivery in 2016, although her masts were not stepped when Boat International was invited on board in July. The interior was also under wraps, but here we can take a look at some of her incredible statistics.

She is a three-masted, 142.81 metre (LOA) sail-assisted motor yacht, with a moulded beam at the widest point of 24.88 metres, an eight metre encapsulated keel and a gross tonnage of approximately 12,700GT. For a vessel of this size it was a challenge to find a shipyard that had the capacity, knowledge and skills to put together the naval architecture and engineering for the motor yacht side of the project. The one chosen, given its skills in building large yachts, was Nobiskrug in Germany.

For the sailing design, rig and keel, and associated structural engineering, Dykstra Naval Architects  in The Netherlands was appointed for its advanced technical abilities demonstrated on various world-class sailing yachts. Aloft Sailing Yacht A carries three of the largest and most highly loaded composite freestanding structures in the world produced by Magma Structures in the UK. The custom booms were made by Future Fibres in Valencia, and the custom sails by Doyle Sails in the USA.

With a hull and superstructure predominantly constructed of steel and incorporating composite and accents of carbon fibre, in order to keep the weight and draught to an acceptable level, Sailing Yacht A is the highest classified vessel of her type: (Maltese Cross) 100A1 Passenger ship Sail Assisted, (Maltese Cross) LMC UMC and (Maltese Cross) 100A1 Yacht Mono G6.

Propulsion comes from a customised hybrid diesel-electric package made up of two MTU 3,600kW diesel engines, and two 4,300kW electric motors, driving shafts ending in highly skewed five-bladed Andritz controllable pitch propellers. She is expected to cruise under power at 16 knots with an expected range of 5,320 nautical miles and will have a top speed of 21 knots.

With her uninterrupted shard-like appearance she carries her eight decks aft along the sheerline, which slopes up towards the stern, reaching a full beam width of 24.88 metres at the widest point. All her machinery is hidden within the hull structure, and as you can see, everything, including the windows, are flush. The bridge control centre for propulsion and sailing systems is on deck seven and there is a touch-and-go helicopter pad on deck six. There is accommodation available for up to 54 crew.

There are many more technical advances, innovations and surprises throughout her hull, decks and keel, which Boat International will reveal, in detail, in an exclusive feature in the November issue.

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Simply Make 5" Cross Stitch Kits - Sail Boat

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Cross stitch is back in fashion and it's known to be one of the easiest forms of hand embroidery to learn! This kit contains everything that you need to create a great finished project. Your stitching fabric, with its open weave, stretches across the plastic hoop making it easy to work with. By following the included instruction and cross stitch chart you build up this Sail Boat design.

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• 125mm plastic hoop, up to 8 x threads, stitching fabric, 2 x needles, threader, instructions with cross stitch chart.
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Catalina 270 vs. The Beneteau First 265 Used Boat Match-Up

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In a head-to-head comparison of entry level inboard cruisers, we think the lower price and practicality of the Catalina favors it over the glitter and gloss of the Beneteau.

People who start in small boats and trade up often view 27 feet as some kind of milestone, and rightly so. At around 27 feet, an in­board engine and the possibility of standing headroom are enticing. Accommodations often become spacious enough for two couples or a family of four to live aboard for a couple of weeks without strain. And hull speed with appropriate sail and engine power typically permits average-weather runs of 35 to 40 miles in an 8-hour day—long enough legs to satisfy the wanderlust of most cruisers.

Two of the most popular 27-foot cruising boat designs are from Beneteau and Catalina, both huge builders. Beneteau bills itself as the largest sailboat company in the world; Catalina lays claim to being the largest in the U.S. The designs of both companies often set the tone for styling by other sailboat makers.

Checking out both boats in recent sales listings, we noticed their Euro-styled interior layouts are at least superfi­cially similar as well, as are hull and sail plan dimensions (see chart, courtesy of our friernds at Sailboatdata.com. Which boat, we wondered, is the better buy, and for whom?

Both the Beneteau and the Catalina utilize modern wide-body, fin-keel, spade-rudder configurations, relatively long waterlines, and moderate rigs with shrouds moved in­board to permit a nar­rower sheeting base. The Beneteau has a slightly shorter LOA but longer LWL (length waterline), and a nearly plumb bow. The 265’s draft is mid-range (4′ 2″ vs. the Catalina’s choice of 5′ 0″ deep fin or 3′ 6″ fin with wings).

Both test boats have inboards. Catal­ina does not offer an outboard option as it once did with its old 27. Catalina’s chief engineer, Gerry Douglas, doesn’t think it’s suitable for a 27- footer, especially one weighing 6,400 pounds-and, he says, neither did most buyers of Catalina 27s over the last several years. (Among other prob­lems, in a seaway an outboard prop tends to ventilate excessively).

Both the Beneteau and Catalina offer easy access to their respective sugar-scoop transoms for boarding, but the Beneteau’s standard tiller simplifies transit through this space. Note the single lifeline and pelican hook arrangement to secure the transom (so-so) and the nicely canted cockpit seat backs with integrated grab rails.

Still, Beneteau, with a 4,800-lb. boat, offered an outboard version of the First 265 when the boat came out in the 90s, and rec­ommends a 9.9-hp. outboard for those who wish to go this route. So far, few buyers have. Beyond the ventilating prop problem, the reason is mostly economic: By the time Beneteau buyers acquire the outboard engine and associated paraphernalia, the dollar difference between inboard and outboard shrinks to around and those who opt for the outboard miss the shore power option and electric hot water heater option which Beneteau threw in” free” with the inboard pack­age.

The rigs of the two boats may ap­pear quite similar at first glance, but upon close inspection a number of important differences emerge.

The Beneteau features a seven­-eighths rig with single spreaders, adjustable split backstay, mast stepped on deck with compression strut in the cabin, and shrouds tied into a force grid molded into the cabin top via a set of studs threaded into a patented con­figuration involving stem balls set into bronze plates. (We’d prefer a set of conventional-and more easily ad­justable and replaceable turnbuckles.) The mast is stepped on a hinge for lowering the spar at bridges, trailer ramps, or for maintenance, but Beneteau says use of the hinge is not recommended without side-sway preventers- currently available as an option in Europe, but not in the U.S.

The Beneteau’s genoa sheets lead to cars riding on C-shaped aluminum tracks, which double as handrails, on the cabintop. It’s not easy to grab the tracks/rails, which require feeding your fingers through a narrow slot molded into the coach roof. We’d rather see separate handrails. We’d also prefer to see the Beneteau’s cockpit­ mounted mainsheet traveler track moved forward onto the cabintop (as the Catalina is configured), so crew moving from cockpit to cabin don’t have to dodge the mainsheet and car. But, unfortunately, moving the track forward isn’t feasible because of the long companionway bridge deck, which reaches forward beyond the boom’s midpoint.

The Catalina’s masthead rig, even with double spreaders (permitting use of a lighter spar than the Beneteau), is more conventional. Although the Catalina’s mast is shorter and its main­sail is smaller, the foretriangle height is two feet taller than the Beneteau’s, resulting in more total sail area when setting a big genoa.

The Catalina’s rig design strives for simplicity and ease of use (no backstay bridle ad­justment, no line-adjusted genoa car position as on the Beneteau). Helping to make sailing the Catalina a no-hassle experience is an impressive array of standard equip­ment not seen on the Beneteau: A double-ended mainsheet, adjustable either at a cam cleat on the traveler car or at a cabin top stopper, where a winch can be used; a pair of two-speed Lewmar self-tailing #30s (compared to Beneteau’s single speed #16s); a standard 135-percent genoa on a good ­quality Hood single-line furler (compared to Beneteau’s standard 100-percent jib and furler hardware available only as an option); a total of five cabintop rope clutches (vs. three for the Beneteau); Dutchman mainsail flaking sys­tem; and single-line reefing (though our Catalina test boat did not have single-line reefing rigged).

Other features on deck also favor the Catalina. Working aft from the bow: The welded pulpit, like the stan­chions, is 1-inch stainless steel tubing (vs. the Beneteau’s 7/8-inch), has two horizontal rails (vs. one for the Beneteau) and four legs (three for the Beneteau). There are twin anchor rollers at the stemhead (one on the Beneteau). Both boats have anchor lockers built into the forward deck, but the Beneteau’ s locker has a water tank fill cap in its bottom. This can make it extremely inconvenient to fill the tank when line and chain are piled over the cap. And the combination bow light is mounted directly behind and partly obscured by the center support of the pulpit.

Moving further aft, the Catalina’s six stanchions are fitted with double lifelines and, being 24-3/4 inches off the deck, give a good measure of security. In con­trast, the Beneteau has only four stanchions, less than 18 inches high, with sin­gle lifelines. The low lifelines are at “tripping height,” and while the scale may be aesthetically pleasing, safety is compromised.

The cockpits on both boats have comfortably high, canted coamings and angled seats. The Catalina’s cockpit is noticeably roomier, due not only to the absence of a cockpit traveler, but also to the placement of the wheel way aft, with an athwartships helm seat 5 feet wide-big enough for three for cocktails at the mooring. On the Catalina, there’s room for nine at the dock, as big a cockpit as could be desired in this size boat. And that doesn’t include a pair of “observation seats” built into each corner of the push pit.

In contrast, the Beneteau seats no more than seven at the dock, and that assumes that one passenger is seated atop the traveler and the tiller is swung up out of the way.

We have no objection to tillers-in fact we generally prefer them in this size boat—provided there’s no no­ticeable drag in the rudder tube and that the forward end is a comfortable height over the sole.

Catalina chose Edson for its 32-inch stainless steel destroyer wheel on a pedestal, a brand we associate with high quality and reliability. The size and placement is good for steering from either a sitting or standing posi­tion; brake and compass binnacle (4- inch Danforth Constellation) are stan­dard; pedestal-mounted brackets for additional instruments such as depth sounder and speedo are extra.

The Beneteau’s compass is option­al, mounted along with any other op­tional instruments on the cabinhouse bulkhead, a better position for crew viewing but not as good for the helms­man.

Both boats have swim platforms and stainless swing-down swim ladders. The Catalina easily wins the Ladder Sweepstakes with a four-step, 24-inch wide ladder with flat plastic treads, compared to the Beneteau’s three-step, 8-1/2-inch wide ladder with treads only 1-1/4-inch wide, made by flattening the stainless tubing a bit.

The Catalina’s ladder swings up to form the center part of the push pit, a clever and neat-looking design. The Beneteau ropes off the transom area with a length of lifeline and a pelican hook.

Both swim platforms are molded into “sugar-scoop” transoms, and both are elevated 9 inches off the water, with a bit of transom projecting below.

CONSTRUCTION

Both boats utilize external bolt-on lead keels, suitably thick fiberglass lay-up schedules, solid glass hulls and balsa­cored decks, with reasonably stout hull-deck connections. Both have highly engineered force grids molded into their hull liners, of particular note since the shrouds in both boats lead not to traditional chainplates but to intermediate tie rods that in turn are joined to metal plates for the most part hidden behind interior liners. On both boats we would prefer better inspection ports to view these crucial connections.

On both boats, the pulpits and stanchions are fastened to the deck with a single large threaded stud, projecting down through the deck and secured with a large washer and nut. Four through-bolts and large backing plates to distribute the load would be better.

Deck hardware (blocks, tracks, hatches, ports) on the Catalina is mostly made by Garhauer, Nibo, and Beck­son, all vendors noted for producing decent-quality but low-cost equip­ment. On the Beneteau, Harken, Spin­lock, and Lewmar are predominant and, in our opinion, something of an upgrade. As already mentioned, both boats use Lewmar winches. We judged all branded hardware on both boats to be of acceptable quality.

The interior layouts on the two boats are quite similar: a large double-berth aft, galley to port next to the compan­ionway, head opposite the galley, U­-shaped dining area around a smallish table supported by the mast compres­sion post with a V-berth forward. (See line drawings.)

All berths on both boats have com­fortable 4-inch cushions. The aft berth on the Beneteau measures 60″ x 77″, and you sleep parallel to the keel; the Catalina is slightly narrower at 57 inches wide, is 74 inches to 86 inches long depending on which side you’re on, and you sleep athwartships. We wouldn’t be inclined to sleep two in either aft berth, since the inside party not only doesn’t have much vertical roll-over room due to incursion of the cockpit sole, but also must crawl over the outside party to get up.

Neither the Catalina nor the Beneteau forward berths have these prob­lems. On the Beneteau, you can lower the table and set up the berth without undue commotion; but setting up the Catalina berth involves a lot of fussy positioning of the raised forward seat and locking it in place with a pair of hard-to-reach latches.

The forward berth on the Beneteau measures 19 inches at the front, 76 inches at the back, and is 88 inches long. On the Catalina it’s 10 inches at the front, 68 inches at the back, and 75 inches long. Tall folks will appreciate the larger Beneteau berth.

The Beneteau has the edge on locker space, with three separate hanging lockers (including one open-air unit in the head), and a liquor cabinet under what a Beneteau brochure de­scribes as a nav station.  Still, this small horizontal surface gives the galley slave some countertop space. The Catalina also suffers from lack of sufficient galley top work­ing space…one of the compromises you’ll find in boats of this size range.

The use of maintenance-hungry exterior wood has been completely eliminated on the Catalina, and min­imized on the Beneteau except for the companionway drop slides (King Star­Board plastic on the Catalina, nicely varnished cherry-veneer plywood on the Beneteau). Below, both boats use some wood to visually warm up the otherwise mostly white interior. The surface is totally fiberglass on the Catalina, but on the Beneteau, soft white foam­-backed vinyl lines the upper halves of the hull sides. .

Catalina’s use of wood is sparing (varnished teak doors and trim, teak dining table, small patch of maple and teak sole forward), while Beneteau’s is lavish (varnished cherry bulkheads and trim, full teak sole). The wood is set off on both boats by neatly made upholstery on berths and settees, on the Catalina by a combination of Ultrasuede-like material and light pat­terned cotton fabrics, on the Beneteau by a practical and soft dark green velvet.

The Beneteau interior gives an impression of good craftsmanship with a dark though pleasant­ly airy cabin. On the Catalina, the impression is of a more basic, but much lighter and equally airy boat. The Catalina’s lightness is helped by a skylight of milk-white Plexiglas (two layers thick) aft of the mast, and more area in the main cabin ports. For ven­tilation, the Catalina has six opening ports plus a forward hatch, while the Beneteau has eight plus a forward hatch. Screens for the ports (but not for either the forward or main hatch) are standard on both the Catalina and the Beneteau. Neither boat has a roll­up sunshade over the forward hatch, which would be a nice touch.

PERFORMANCE

We did our testing on the Manatee River off Palmetto, Florida. Both boats seemed quite stiff, well balanced, and very responsive to the helm. Both could be spun in more or less their own length. The day we sailed the Beneteau, it was blowing 15 knots steadily and 20 in gusts, and the 265 heeled not more than 25 degrees close-hauled with full sail. This impressed us. So did the Catalina, which was at least as stable on a breezier day (wind 20-25, occasional gusts to 30) with full sail, only burying the rail once in a particularly vicious wind burst. In short, we wouldn’t hesitate to sail either boat in dusty weather.

Though hard to judge in such strong, shifting winds, we think the Beneteau had the edge in sailing speed, as her specifications would indicate. Un­der power, however, her smaller engine and prop (single-cylinder, 9-hp., 26-CID Volvo, 15 x 12 optional fold­ing prop) was definitely not as effective upwind as the Catalina’s (three-­cylinder, 18-hp, 3 7-CID Perkins, two-­blade 13 x 10 prop). The Catalina’s Perkins also was smoother and quiet­er, despite the fact that its engine box (two removable clam-shells back to back, of fiberglass-foam sandwich construction) had no added insula­tion, while the Beneteau’s plywood box was lined with soft foam. Engine and shaft log access was very good on the Beneteau, superb on the Catalina.

At the moment, PHRF for the Beneteau is 168. The Catalina’s is 198.

THE BOTTOM LINE

To some extent, the choice between the Beneteau 265 and the Catalina 270 is a trade off between elegant French styling on the one hand, and no-non­sense American practicality on the other.

The choice comes down to the Beneteau’s lighter hull with quicker acceleration, and the Catalina’s equal­ly maneuverable but heavier hull with greater load-carrying capacity and liv­ing space below.

All boats are compromises, and personal taste and prejudices do enter the picture. That said, we admit to a clear preference for the Catalina. We especially like the lightness and bright­ness of its interior, enhanced by nu­merous large ports and an overhead skylight. Most of all, we like the Catal­ina’s greater value for the money-not just because the overall price is about 10 percent lower than a comparable Beneteau, but because of the better choice of standard items. For example, note the differences between some of the Beneteau’s items and the Catal­ina’s: 9-hp. raw-water-cooled engine vs. 18-hp. freshwater-cooled; no en­gine tach or fuel gauge vs. both stan­dard; 8.25-gallon fuel tank vs. 14 gal­lons; 16.25-gallon water tank vs. 26 gallons; holding tank 11.5 gallons vs. 18; single-speed #16 self-tailing Lewmars vs. two-speed #30 STs; a 1.6- gpm Shurflo pressure water pump vs. a 2.8-gpm Shurflo pump: a gimbaled two-burner non-pressure alcohol stove vs. a gimbaled two-burner LPG stove, and so on.

The Catalina is heavier, more stable, roomier, and better equipped. The Beneteau has more stowage lockers, faster acceleration, and French-flavored rather than California ­flavored Eurostyle. Both boats do well in heavy air. Neither is a racehorse likely to win much in competition. Neither wins the prize as the ultimate low-cost 27-footer, though the Catalina 270 may come close. Now if Catalina had only installed a good-size hanging locker, put in more working counter surface in the galley, make it easier to make up the forward berth…

This review was first published November 23, 2015 and has been updated.

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Excellent comparison on both boats. I have been looking at the B & C and your article cleared up many questions I had.

Having owned a Catalina 270 for about 8 years now, and having upgraded most of the systems to reasonably current technology, we’d say this boat is a pleasure to sail. The only rea downsides are a lack of storage, (to be expected in a 27 footer) and the steering gear cover in the aft berth. It’s really annoying.

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What I learned during a boat knockdown while sailing alone

• August 22, 2024

Freya Terry gets an early lesson in the perils of single-handed sailing when she embarks on a round-UK and Ireland circumnavigation in her distinctive She 31

When the knockdown threw Freya across the boat, her head struck the bulkhead Credit: Claudia Myatt Credit: Claudia Myatt

The wind is sitting at about 25 knots, and I’m 15 miles north of Padstow, but the tide is against me, writes Freya Terry .

Although I’m making good speed (4 knots), I just can’t point. So, I put in a tack, and it takes me almost 180° around due to the tide.

I’ve missed the tide and will have to sit it out till midnight when I can head to shore. It’s going to be slow, but I know I can do it.

I’ve already lost my engine and most of my battery power .

I’m only using battery to power my navigation lights, but luckily there’s not a boat in sight, so I’m not too worried.

I’m back to old-school navigation so I head down below to fill in the log and mark my position on the chart, and that’s when it happens.

I feel something, and the boat starts to tip. I make a desperate dash for the tiller.

Freya Terry and her Sparkman & Stephens She 31 Pink Delta built in 1977. Credit: RYA Cymru Wales

I’m too late; the force of the knockdown throws me across the boat, and I hit my head on the bulkhead by the window.

I scream in pain, but no one hears. I’m alone on a boat miles out to sea.

I fall as Pink Delta rights herself, landing painfully.

For a moment, my whole world is pain, and then I’m sick. I take a moment and check my head—no blood, that’s good. I get up and go on deck; everything is the same like nothing even happened.

Pink Delta is sailing along beautifully, 50° to the wind. I sit still, marvelling at her incredible resilience.

I turn on my handheld radio but as soon as I start to transmit, the screen loses power.

Okay, the ship’s radio next. It turns on, and I transmit a Mayday message.

After a few minutes, I hear nothing back. I try again… nothing. I think it must not be getting enough power.

Freya Terry is a dinghy, keelboat, multihull, power-boat and jetski instructor from Pembrokeshire. Aged 21, after restoring a She 27 yacht (bought for £1 from a friend’s garden), she upsized to a She 31 for her solo circumnavigation around Britain and Ireland. Freya won a Royal Yachting Association (RYA) Cymru Wales Impact Award for her achievements at Pembrokeshire Performance Sailing Academy. She has now made repairs and restarted her circumnavigation. www.she-sails.co.uk

My head is foggy, and I know I should be calling for help. So I clip in and climb back on deck, and then I’m sick again.

I know I need to set off my personal locator beacon (PLB) , but I don’t want to. I wanted to do this trip alone.

I think I can make it back to shore, and I don’t want to worry everyone back home.

I know that if I do this, people will judge me. I’m only a few days into my trip, and I feel like I’ve already failed.

But I know I need to put my safety first, so I do the adult thing, the thing I’ve always avoided doing—I ask for help.

I set off the PLB and then I cry. I’ve overcome so much already on this short journey. I was proud of myself, but this… this I can’t deal with alone.

The journey before the boat knockdown

Some background and how I ended up in this situation. I’m 21 and I grew up on the water.

I first learned to sail at Fishguard Bay Yacht Club in a Topper when I was 12, then I moved up to a Feva and a 420.

I’ve raced and trained extensively, even representing Wales.

I’ve worked as a dingy instructor for five years and, last year, I bought my beloved Sparkman and Stephens She 31 from Aberystwyth.

I spent months refurbishing her, including painting her bright pink inspired by Jessica Watson .

I re-named her Pink Delta and spent the summer sailing her from Aberystwyth down to Neyland, exploring along the way.

We spent the winter in Neyland marina, where I dreamed of big adventures. I was determined and set my sights on sailing around Great Britain and Ireland.

Freya did much of the work herself to prepare Pink Delt a for the circumnavigation. Credit: Matt Cottingham

As a young person this seemed financially impossible, but I set up a GoFundMe and started seeking sponsors (I’m still looking), I aimed to raise awareness for mental health issues, and I began speaking openly and honestly for the first time about the extreme mental health difficulties I faced from a young age.

As funds came in, I bought essential safety kit and prepared the boat. I set an ambitious launch date of 11 May 2024 to give me all summer sailing.

My voyage isn’t about speed; I’m intentionally embracing a slower pace, engaging with communities and sparking vital conversations about mental health.

Things were a little chaotic in the run-up to the launch, but I had everything under control. I’d serviced the engine and had it up and running.

The electronics had been checked by an electrician the day before I left. It was busy but mostly final touches.

All in all, I was happy that the boat and I were ready.

The conditions were stunning  on launch day– clear blue skies, sunshine, and about 15 knots of wind, not the usual Welsh weather.

Loads of my friends and family came to wave me off and wish me good luck. It was heartwarming and emotional but at 1015 my lines slipped and I was off.

Once out past St Ann’s Head, I was comfortably sailing at 7 knots and with the tide behind me, I made the best course to wind. I made some food and settled in, but by mid-afternoon, the wind dropped to 5-8 knots and began shifting a lot.

I hand-steered and tried to keep my speed up. To try and arrive before dark I switched the engine on, but that wasn’t meant to be.

After an hour, the engine ground to a halt.

Watersports instructor Freya Terry from Pembrokeshire was among the first to be honoured in the RYA Cymru Wales Impact Awards. Credit: RYA Cymru Wales

I suspected a fuel problem, so I changed the filter and connected it to a jerry can of fresh diesel. I bled the engine and eventually, she started up again.

I congratulated myself and carried on, but an hour later, the same thing happened.

I went below, adjusted some things, and the engine started once more.

But after 40 minutes, it cut out yet again. I was a few miles from the island. I started swearing at the engine, I was so close; couldn’t it have kept going just a little longer?

Almost as if they heard me, three dolphins appeared to reassure me I’d be okay.

I kept an eye on my position and spent nearly an hour trying to get the engine going – nothing worked. I realized I was going to have to sail to Lundy.

As it got dark the wind dropped completely, barely propelling me forward at around 1 knot.

I finally anchored safely by 0300 and I turned on my anchor lights before going to sleep. Poor weather meant I stayed at anchor for two days,

I tried everything I knew to do to start the engine without success.

Then, on the evening of 13 May, I started having battery problems,

Despite a voltage reading of 12.1V before bed, I awoke four hours later to a flashing warning light at 6.5V which I didn’t understand.

The next morning, I checked again – my leisure battery was dead. I still had some power in my engine battery but it was low from all the time cranking and trying to fix the engine.

On 14 May, while there was a good wind, I set sail for Padstow as I’d planned. I didn’t want to be stuck in Lundy Island with no power, and knew once I arrived in Padstow I could get things fixed.

I had a portable battery for my phone and I updated my family and the RYA SafeTrx app to my passage plan.

It took me a while to get the anchor up and sail away from the island, so by the time I was on course for Padstow, I knew I’d likely missed the tide window but chose to sail on.

I left a message for the harbour master to let him know I’d probably be arriving the next day instead and tried to update my SafeTrx, but I was already out of signal.

I knew it would likely be a late night, and I planned to find somewhere along the way to anchor for a little while.

Though fighting the tide, the strong wind gave me good speed but its angle prevented a direct course to Padstow.

Down on power, I was running my nav light from the engine battery. I was back to using Imray paper charts for navigation, a difficult feat alone in a Force 6.

RNLI rescue after the boat knockdown

But I was coping. I’m a sailor, and I was simply sailing my boat. I had nav lights so other boats could see me. I had charts to navigate.

I didn’t need anything else –fancy chart plotters, radios, AIS, even engines – are all luxuries we don’t actually need to sail.

I knew it was going to be another late night, but once the tide turned, I’d sail into an anchorage.

Unbeknown to me (as I had no communication), the harbour master didn’t receive my message and contacted the coastguard about my overdue estimated time of arrival.

Falmouth Coastguard, noting my SafeTrx, sent the Padstow lifeboat to look for me at my last known location, 20 miles away from where I now was.

Their search was stood down at nightfall.

I was simply dealing with the conditions at hand.

Later, at around 2200, was when I was knocked down. I hit my head and, believing I had a concussion, I activated my PLB.

It took the Royal National Lifeboat Institution (RNLI) crew nearly an hour to get to me, and for a while, I wasn’t sure if the PLB had even worked.

I can’t say what I felt at the time; my brain was a little foggy. I was running on autopilot, just doing what I knew I needed to.

Positive vibes

I didn’t know if the lifeboat was coming out to me, but if not I knew the tide would change around midnight and then I’d be able to sail to shore.

All the same, seeing the coastguard helicopter and then the lifeboat was such a relief. I knew I needed them. I wasn’t alone anymore, and I knew I’d be safe.

I have to thank the amazing team in Padstow – the harbour master, everyone on the lifeboat, and those in Falmouth co-ordinating my rescue.

Since this incident, I’ve experienced such incredible kindness, support and encouragement.

And since beginning this journey I’m more connected to family, friends, followers, and even strangers than I have ever been.

I have faced criticism and judgment at every step.

But before judging me too harshly, remember I’m a young person struggling with mental health issues.

Please be kind; words do hurt.

Things go wrong at sea, and good seamanship is how you handle them.

Despite my preparation and experience, my boat was knocked down, causing a head injury and concussion.

That is a Mayday call, regardless of age, experience, preparations or crew size.

I’m confident I did everything I could to keep myself as safe as possible but there are always lessons to be learned.

I’m glad to know that even when I was experiencing communication problems, the systems I’d put in place worked.

I’m so grateful to everyone involved in the search, and to Falmouth Coastguard and Padstow RNLI for their support.

Lessons Learned from the boat knockdown

• Remember that this is sailing: You can survive without electronics, engines, or radios.
• Have paper charts and know how to use them: I use Imray charts on Pink Delta .
• Keep your emergency contact informed of your passage plan. If it’s a difficult passage, inform the Coastguard.
• RYA SafeTrx and emergency beacons can save your life but make sure they are registered and updated regularly. The more detail you provide, the better.
• Practice using your VHF radio and PLB so it’s second nature.
• Things will go wrong at sea – it’s how you deal with them that counts.
• Don’t be scared to ask for help. If you need help, that’s what the lifeboats are there for.

RNLI incident report on Freya’s boat knockdown

Lifeboat view of Pink Delta with two RNLI Padstow crew aboard assisting Freya. Credit: RNLI/Padstow

At 1927 on Tuesday, 14 May 2024, Padstow lifeboat launched to look for an overdue yacht, Pink Delta .

Pink Delta was not at her last known location, 27 miles north of Trevose, so the lifeboat crew began a search.

Meanwhile, Falmouth Coastguard discovered that the yacht was in fact not due into Padstow Harbour until 15 May, so the lifeboat crew was stood down.

At 2220, just as the crew were returning to the station, they were tasked again because a Personal Locator Beacon (PLB) alert had been received from Pink Delta – 16.5 miles north-west of Stepper Point.

Coastguard Helicopter 924, also tasked, was first at the scene. The air crew confirmed it was the Pink Delta with one person on board and were stood down.

Two Padstow lifeboat crew went aboard the yacht to assess the casualty who had fallen and hit her head. Due to the conditions, the two RNLI crew stayed on board Pink Delta , while Padstow RNLI lifeboat towed the yacht into a Camel Estuary mooring, arriving at 0333.

The casualty was transferred to the lifeboat and taken to the station at Trevose, where paramedics took her to the Royal Cornwall Hospital (Treliske) for observation.

Padstow Coxswain Richard Pitman said: “It was great to see the skipper had the means to call for help and we were glad we could be there. We don’t see many bright pink yachts. We wish her all the best with the rest of her solo sail around the UK.”

Expert response

Richard Falk

Richard Falk, RYA director of training and qualifications, responds: “Hindsight is a powerful tool, and a willingness to share experiences (good and bad) and to reflect on what might have been done differently is equally as powerful, both for the person involved and for readers.

“Freya is an experienced sailor who has clearly put much time and effort into preparing both herself and Pink Delta for her challenging voyage. She had carried out extensive maintenance, had planned her voyage , had all the sensible safety equipment on board and most importantly, she knew how to use it, and when.

“Without knowing the cause of Freya’s engine woes, it is difficult to comment on that, other than to say that after any period of maintenance, it is always advisable to spend some time running all relevant equipment and sea trialling it before an extended passage.

“It’s interesting to note that despite the engine and subsequent power supply issues Freya encountered, she was not daunted by this. She took those setbacks in her stride and was content to navigate her way to a safe haven using pencil and paper, something many people are ill-equipped to do in this day and age. Freya’s real problems began with the knockdown which resulted in a head injury.

“Put simply, that could have happened to anyone. It could just as easily have occurred by slipping down the companionway steps while at anchor. However, despite the impact of that injury Freya was not panicked, and made the wise decision to seek assistance by activating her PLB. Head injuries are unpredictable and while she was conscious, she was aware that her condition had the potential to deteriorate. Having the right equipment on board, knowing how to use it and, importantly, exercising good judgement in when to use it is something all skippers should aspire to.

“Thank you Freya for sharing your experience and we wish you well in your exciting undertaking.”

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Anchoring Masterclass: How to Anchor like an Expert

Want to anchor with confidence and ease? Tom Fletcher shares some hard learnt charter skipper secrets for expert anchoring…

Tackling anchoring.

Have you ever had the Greek Gods of Anchoring displeased with you? I have. I once spent a week on charter with a wonderfully nice father and daughter, on board Sail Ionian’s brand-new Bavaria C50, and it was an absolute nightmare. What’s more, the yacht had just had a new 30kg Rocna fitted, so I couldn’t even blame the ground tackle! Everywhere I went that week I had to have three or four attempts at dropping before the anchor would catch. By the end, I was in tears with frustration, and still don’t know what I was doing wrong. The next time I took her out on charter I had no problems whatsoever.

In the Ionian we rely heavily on our anchor . It can make or break a week on charter so always make a point of checking what the yacht you’re booking is equipped with. Even for a 30-footer I wouldn’t want under 50m of chain. If I was being demanding, as a rule of thumb I would multiply the length of the boat in meters x5, to get the minimum number of meters of chain I would like.

Favoured anchor types will vary depending upon the type of seabed or the area you’re in. Designs like the Bruce or Fluke can be outstanding in sandy areas like the Caribbean. CQRs can be brilliant where tidal flow direction can change, as the design allows them to twist without breaking out. Even fisherman anchors or grapnels can be useful in rocky areas and riverbeds. However, my years of experience in the Ionian have taught me that a Rocna is the best you can get for varied types of seabeds. At Sail Ionian the whole fleet is retrofitted with Rocnas, or their sister the Vulcan which doesn’t have the roll bar.

Make sure your boat handover goes into detail on the windlass and where the trip switch or fuse is. You will want to know how to tighten the gypsy, and how to free drop the chain too. If you can test the windlass by dropping and raising chain, do so. It’s good to see if the windlass is slow or fast, whether it sounds healthy, and if there is any juddering or slipping (which is a good indication of a worn gypsy that should be replaced before you leave).

I have a real bugbear with skippers who don’t realise the importance of their crew on the bow. With a little training and explanation, they can be the yacht’s best asset when anchoring. I have lost count of the number of times I have started training a crew how to med moor , only to find that the bow person doesn’t have a clue what they are doing, and merely responds to shouted direction from the helm. I like to teach the bow person about techniques, types of seabeds, length of chain… all sorts. I guess some people aren’t that interested, but most seem to like to understand what they are doing!  A crew working together in this way is much more effective. When small problems arise, they can then be dealt with quickly. I like to teach some hand signals too, to stop the shouting over the noise of the windlass and the wind. A basic set of ‘drop’, ‘stop’, ‘up’ and ‘down’ are enough to deal with most needs. Knowledge of how to weigh anchor and control the chain when it’s coming in are invaluable too.

Don’t try to anchor on a steep declining seabed

This is one that is peculiar to deep water anchorages, of which we have many in the Ionian! It can be a common situation that you are trying to anchor near the shore, with the wind blowing the yacht off. However, because of the steepness of the seabed you have the bow in 5m of water but the stern in 10m of water! As you reverse and lay out chain the yacht is getting into progressively deeper and deeper water. The anchor just has no chance of holding as it is, in effect, being dragged down a hill. The moral of the story being to consider not just the material of the seabed, but also the bathymetry.

Deep water techniques

It is quite common on an Ionian charter that I will choose to anchor in well over 10 meters of water. The main constraints with depth are firstly the length of chain we carry, and secondly the strength of the windlass motor. At Sail Ionian, a typical 40ft charter yacht will carry at least 60 meters of chain. Using the old maxim of 4-5 times the depth of water, we get a maximum anchoring depth range of around 12-15 meters. Our windlasses can deadlift a substantial weight, but when you consider the length of chain plus the anchor at the end, it is a considerable lift. We usually recommend to guests to always stick under 12 meters, much deeper than that and fuses can start blowing!

When dropping in these depths it is important to remember that it takes time for the anchor to hit the seabed. We often see people reversing as they drop, not realising by the time the anchor catches they can easily be 15-20 meters further away from where they intended the anchor to be. This can cause all sorts of complications, from changes in depth to distance from the shore for long lining. In fact, the most common issue this causes is when long lining; the yacht ends up much closer to the shore than intended, with much less chain out that desired! It’s easy to time your windlass over 10 meters of chain to get an idea how quick it is, then you know roughly how long it will take for the anchor to drop to the seabed.

I would advise positioning the bow where you want the anchor, then letting down 10m of chain, before starting to reverse into the wind, ensuring your anchor is where you want it.

Always look for clear water

The colour of the water is the first give-away of what sort of seabed you’re dealing with, and where in a bay you should drop the hook. A normal Ionian bay will have beautiful clear water and be a uniform mid blue, with patches of light blue. Those light blue patches are usually sandy, without any weed, and are a great spot to aim for. Firstly, you should explore the anchorage at slow speed, keeping one eye on the depth gauge and one eye on the water. Different parts of the bay may be windier that other too. Once you’ve picked your spot, look for those lighter patches of water and aim to get the bow over them. Here is another great example of where you need to reply on your crew on the bow. They will need to direct you to position the bow of the boat over the sand and drop the anchor there. Again, a little communication in terms of positioning and depth, or length of chain, is needed, so that you can get the anchor down on the sand before you start moving in reverse.

Wind directions & local knowledge

Considering wind direction is one of the first lessons to be taught about anchoring. It is, however, complicated by the fickle nature of the Ionian wind. At the mercy of island topography, katabatics, and even time of day, picking a spot that isn’t a lee shore can sometimes be harder than you think. Often a perfect lunchtime anchorage with a light offshore breeze can change to a lee shore once the temperature of the day increases and the afternoon anabatic winds start up.

The first time I saw local Greek charter skippers long lining off the beach in Marmagas on Ithaca I was confused. The morning breeze was light and blowing them onto the shore. I assumed their guests must have asked to be as close to the beach as possible. By the end of lunch though, the wind had switched to a feisty offshore 15 knots, gusting above 20, and my anchor was dragging into deeper water where I had dropped in the middle of the bay. Those Greek charter skippers were sitting comfortably, being blown off the beach, with the strain on their long lines, not on their anchor. It’s always worth keeping a humble eye on what other sailors are doing – there’s always someone cleverer than yourself! 

Free dropping chain vs. lowering on the windlass

As divisive an issue as any in sailing circles! Many who care for their own windlass much prefer to treat it carefully and drop chain freely, by loosening the gypsy, taking the strain away from the windlass motor. At Sail Ionian, we always tell our guests to drop using the windlass though. We feel it gives guests more control, and there is less danger of fingers getting near fast moving lengths of chain. There is also a tendency for the gypsy not to be tightened enough after free dropping. This can result in slipping when weighing anchor, which in turn causes a lot of engineering call-outs and a large fuel bill for a very quick job of tightening the gypsy to the correct tension.

The most important time to consider dropping freely, and quickly, is when you are anchoring in a very windy situation. Sometimes you just want to get the anchor down fast and keep the boat under control using the engine. This can be particularly true for long lining or med mooring in a crosswind. Releasing the chain slowly on the windlass motor can slow the yacht to the point where you lose all steerage.

Whenever free dropping anchor, it is essential to check the bitter end is attached to the yacht securely, and to slow the rate of descent as you approach the end of the chain. Bitter ends are designed to separate when needed, and the speed and weight of a full chain locker dropped without braking can be enough to rip the bitter end d-ring from the deck. I have seen the confused look on faces as the end of the chain follows the anchor to the seabed. Another good reason to train your bow person well! If this ever happens to you, try and note your position in the bay, or hit the MOB button on the GPS quickly. If they know where to look the charter company may be able to dive and find the tackle, saving you a large bill.

Checking you’re well in

Finally, a lot of the issues I see out there could be avoided with a final check to test the anchor. I often see anchors dropped and engine off within seconds, with no attempt to test how well the anchor is dug in. I prefer to sit there with the engine running at least 1000 rpm in reverse for the 5 minutes it takes for the kettle to boil, before I’m happy to relax.

It is a fact of life in the Ionian that there is a lot of weed on the seabed and often anchors can get caught up in this, appear to have set, but break free after a persistent snatch. But this can also be the situation when you have a lot of chain out too. The weight of the chain alone can be enough to resist light winds, or low revs on the engine. It’s only with more force that it becomes clear the anchor is not actually in, and the boat starts drifting.

I have spent many a stormy Vliho night on the bow of an anchored yacht in over 30 knots of wind and not moved anywhere. A well dug in anchor can cope with a surprising amount of force. So don’t be shy with checking you’re set, give her some revs and sit back for a few minutes. You’ll sleep a lot better.

Tom Fletcher is a hugely experience skipper and instructor at Sail Ionian. For more information, go to the Sail Ionian Website .

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How Do Sails Actually Work: Full Beginners Guide

The sails are your boat's primary driving force. Your boat is designed to sail , and with good wind it will be faster and more comfortable than using the engine. Engines on sailboats are called "auxiliary" for a reason, almost every sailor hates to use them once they get the hang of sailing. But it won't happen if you don't learn to trim the sails, and to trim them you have to understand them.

But how does a bunch of cloth - your sails - get so much motive power and force? How do sails actually work?

The short answer is that upwind sails generate lift which acts against forces on the keel in the water to pull the boat forward, and downwind sails capture as much wind force as they can to push the boat downwind.

On this page:

How sailing requires some math, understanding the physics of sailing, putting math and physics together under sail, why is it easier to sail downward, applying your knowledge of sails.

But the detailed answer for sailing upwind is more complex, so come join us for a deep dive into the reason sailboats work and can sail up, down, and across the wind. It's going to get a little into math and a little physics, but we'll keep it on a practical level where you can get the concepts with little hard stuff. And downwind sails are much easier to explain.

To understand sails and sailing, understand the forces which apply to a boat and how they combine to make forward motion. To represent forces, motion, and velocity, we need to use vectors .

We'll do our best to keep this simple, and you will not need a calculator. The important takeaway is how we add forces together to figure a net force or motion .

What is a Vector?

A vector is a number with both a magnitude (a number or size) and a direction. Traveling at 60 miles per hour down the highway is a speed—the car's speed is 60 mph no matter where it’s headed. It has no direction component. But traveling west at 60 mph is a velocity , which is a speed and a direction (west).

You represent the speed easily with a number: "60." But how do you show its velocity headed west? Just as easily, with a vector.

Draw a six-inch line running east/west, then put an arrow on the west end. If we set our scale to one inch = 10mph, then we have our scalar measurement (6") and our orientation - west, or 270°. This arrow is the velocity vector of a car moving at 60mph headed west.

You can represent anything with an orientation and a scalar measurement this way. Whether it's the force and direction a pool cue applies to a ball, the force a hammerhead puts on a nail or the speed and direction of the wind, you can show it with vectors.

Calculating the sailing vector (with pictures)

So what is the point of drawing arrows to describe things? If we can describe forces with vectors, then we can add and subtract the vectors to see how the forces add and subtract, too.

Adding vectors is simple. To add two vectors, put the arrow end of the first vector at the beginning of the second vector. Then, with a straight edge, draw a line from the start of the first vector to the end of the second and put an arrow on the end where it meets the second vector. That new line you just drew is the sum of the vectors.

That's all there is to it. But what does it mean? Let's do a couple of thought exercises to show how it works.

Picture a bicyclist riding north along a road at 20 mph with no wind. The bicyclist feels a 20 mph north wind in her face, right? You can draw that as a line 20 units long pointing directly at the rider's face. The exact units on paper don't matter. That they're consistent is all that counts, so "one square of graph paper = one unit" and "one unit equals one mph" is just fine.

Now picture a 10 mph north wind from straight in front of the rider. What does it feel like to the rider?

That 10 mph wind is added to the 20 mph wind, and it feels like the rider is moving into a 30mph wind. You don't need vectors to see this, it's simple math, and you know how this feels. Just like you know a 10 mph south wind from straight behind the rider will make the total wind feel like just 10 mph.

But what about if there's a 10 mph wind from the east - 90 degrees from the rider's right? What does the wind force feel like in her face now?

• Draw your 20-unit north wind line in the rider's face.
• From the end of the first line, draw a 10-unit east wind.
• With a straightedge, draw a line from the beginning of the north wind vector to the arrow on the east wind vector.
• That line is what the rider feels in her face from the combined wind of her motion on the bike and the 10 mph east wind.
• You can measure the exact angle of the new vector with a protractor or compass and measure the length in units to get the wind strength. You'd get a wind that felt like 22.4 mph from 26.6° to the rider’s right.

Vector A, the north wind (0°) 20 mph long, and B is the east wind (90°) at 10 mph

The line is drawn to add them together.

The new vector for the wind force.

To explore this further, check out the tool used to make these graphics , where you can create your own vectors and add them together. Just remember it's made by mathematicians, not sailors, so North (0°) is to the right instead of up!

Applying vectors when sailing

You don't need to understand how to measure vectors or even do the math to get all the numbers. All you need to understand is how to add the forces together with the arrows.

Lay them head-to-tail and draw the new line. And that's enough for you to see how the combined forces will look without using a calculator.

Vectors are an important part of understanding sailing. When you learn to navigate, you'll use vectors to calculate the current set and drift or the course to a waypoint (though they won't call it that!). From our examples, you see how they apply to understand apparent wind. You don't need to draw lines on paper all the time, but understanding how forces, currents, and wind affect each other will make you a better sailor.

Now that we know how to measure and add forces, we can talk about the forces on a boat that create upwind motion. There are a few basic physics principles that describe and explain these forces and how they apply to a sailboat. If you never took physics back in the day (or you remember as well as most of us do years later...) don't sweat. We'll keep it relatable.

What is the Bernoulli Effect?

Standing near a chimney, you can feel flue drafts that suck the heat right out of the room if you leave it open, or see them suck smoke up the chimney. And if you've ever flown, did you ever look out the window at what the wing was doing during the flight? Ever wonder how the wings get that big jet plane off the ground?

The answer lies in the work of Daniel Bernoulli, an 18th-century Swiss mathematician. Bernoulli's Principle states that a moving fluid is associated with a decrease in static pressure. The faster the flow, the lower the pressure near it.

At lower speeds, the air is effectively fluid, and the same rules apply. So wind moving over a chimney opening creates a low-pressure spot at the top of the chimney, which draws air up the chimney even when there is no fire. On a windy day, this force is powerful enough to rattle the flue cover when it's closed.

How the sail generates lift

How does this get a plane in the air? And by extension, how does it get power to a sail? Because the same principle applies and upwind sails are very similar to airplane wings.

An airplane wing is a curved surface. As air flows over a curved surface, the air on the outside of the curve has a longer path to travel than air on the inside before it meets again at the back of the wing. Both sides of the wing are moving through the air at the same speed, so the air over the top of the curve must move faster than the air on the bottom.

The faster a fluid moves, the lower the pressure. So the faster air on top of the wing has lower pressure than the bottom, which leads to a lifting force from the higher pressure under the wing. The curve of a wing causes the lifting force towards the top of the wing. The same thing applies to upwind sails - the curve in the sail generates "lift" towards the outside of the sail.

If you want to feel this yourself, the next time you're a passenger in a car, roll down the window and put your hand. Flatten your hand with your palm down parallel to the ground. Then, slowly curve your hand and feel the lifting force!

How the sailor controls lift

If you've watched the wing while a plane takes off or lands, you've seen the pilot adjusting the flaps and the overall shape of the wing. A modern plane wing changes shape from a low-flat profile to a shorter, thicker shape. This different shape changes the amount of lift the wing gives, and the thicker shape has more lift, which helps at takeoff and landing.

The pilot is trimming the wing like a sailor trims a sail.

In a curved surface like an airplane wing (or sail), the chord is the curve's height. The fuller the curve, the longer the chord. And the faster the wind has to travel over the outside to meet the inside wind, which leads to more lift. But it also creates more drag, so once a plane is off the ground and getting closer to cruising speed, the pilot flattens out the wing to reduce drag for higher speed.

For airplanes, this makes taking off and landing easier since the plane can get off the ground and land at lower speeds. For sails, it gives more power for acceleration from low speed or through waves and chop.

What is Newton's Third Law of Motion?

"For every action, there's an equal and opposite reaction."

If you push against a wall, the wall pushes back with the same force. If it didn't, the wall would fall over. A rocket blasts hot gasses from burning fuel out of the bottom, and the rocket moves forward from the reaction force. A car's tires push against the road, the road pushes back, and the car moves forward.

When wind hits a boat's sails, it will either flop over and capsize or skitter sideways through the water unless it has a keel or other appendage under the water . A mono-hulled boat without a keel, centerboard, daggerboard, or other underwater stabilizers can not sail upwind.

So the keel acts as a counterpoise to the forces on the sails to keep the boat upright, but it also pushes against the water. This pushing against the water and the sails is an action, and there's an equal and opposite reaction. This force works against the sail lift to move the boat.

Sailing upwind, you've got a combination of lifting force from the sails, reactive force from the keel against the water, and other forces, like friction and drag from the water. These forces have their own vector arrows.

For simplicity, we will ignore friction and drag, since they're the only forces pushing against the boat in one direction as it moves through the water. While they increase with speed, we can assume the other forces are large enough to overcome them. And you don't want to make me explain adding four or five vectors together at once...

Friction and drag are very important to boat performance. We've simplified them out of the equation to make the force diagrams clearer. Faster boats have less drag from hull form and smooth bottoms, but all the drag and friction vectors point straight back against the boat's forward motion so they only slow the boat down, not change its direction.

In the diagram below, you can see vectors for the lifting force from the sails and the side force of the keep pushing against the water.

Now, add them.

You don't have to do it on paper, as long as you can see that those vectors, when added together, result in a vector that nets a forward motion of the hull through the water. There's your answer.

Any yacht designer will tell you there's much more to getting the correct forward vector. And this is true. The shape of the hull, the smoothness of the bottom, and a few other factors will affect the final forward forces on the boat.

But at its core, the lift vector from the sails added to the keel vector ends up in the boat being pulled forward.

What makes a boat sail downwind is much simpler than the mashup of force vectors we had to work through for upwind sailing. It's quite simple really - the sails fill with wind and pull on the boat to push/drag it downwind.

When you're not going against the wind, the physics is a lot simpler.

Not that you can't look more closely at the forces involved to maximize your speeds and find the best way to sail downwind. But we're not asking how to trim for speed, we're asking how the boat moves. And heading downwind, your full sails catch as much wind as possible to put as much propulsive force onto the hull as possible.

If you've gotten this far, you may wonder "now what?" The next step is to apply that knowledge to sail your boat. Now that you know you can change sail shapes for speed and power and why that works, check out our complete guide to trimming sails so you can trim better and sail faster.

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