sirius 28 sailboat review

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Review of Sirius 28

Basic specs..

Both the hull and the deck is made of fibreglass. Generally, a hull made of fibreglass requires only a minimum of maintenance during the sailing season. And outside the sailing season, just bottom cleaning and perhaps anti-fouling painting once a year - a few hours of work, that's all. The hull is a double hull which improves the indoor climate. Especially when the water is colder than the air in the cabin, then the double hull insulates against cold water and reduce the condense water in the cabin.

The boat is equipped with a galley, 90.0 liter fresh water capacity and 55.0 liter waste water capacity.

The boat equipped with a masthead rig. The advantage of a masthead rig is its simplicity and the fact that a given sail area - compared with a fractional rig - can be carried lower and thus with less heeling moment.

The Sirius 28 is equipped with a fin keel. The fin keel is the most common keel and provides splendid manoeuvrability. The downside is that it has less directional stability than a long keel.

The boat can enter even shallow marinas as the draft is just about 1.31 - 1.41 meter (4.30 - 4.60 ft) dependent on the load. See immersion rate below.

Sirius 28 is typically equipped with an inboard Yanmar 1GM diesel engine at 7 hp (5 kW). Calculated max speed is about 3.7 knots

The transmission is a shaft drive. A shaft drive will in the long run require less maintenance than other types of drive e.g. a sail drive.

The fuel tank has a capacity of 70.0 liters (18 US gallons, 15 imperial gallons).

Sailing characteristics

This section covers widely used rules of thumb to describe the sailing characteristics. Please note that even though the calculations are correct, the interpretation of the results might not be valid for extreme boats.

What is Capsize Screening Formula (CSF)?

The capsize screening value for Sirius 28 is 2.05, indicating that this boat would not be accepted to participate in ocean races.

What is Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed?

The theoretical maximal speed of a displacement boat of this length is 6.6 knots. The term "Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed" is widely used even though a boat can sail faster. The term shall be interpreted as above the theoretical speed a great additional power is necessary for a small gain in speed.

The immersion rate is defined as the weight required to sink the boat a certain level. The immersion rate for Sirius 28 is about 144 kg/cm, alternatively 810 lbs/inch. Meaning: if you load 144 kg cargo on the boat then it will sink 1 cm. Alternatively, if you load 810 lbs cargo on the boat it will sink 1 inch.

Sailing statistics

This section is statistical comparison with similar boats of the same category. The basis of the following statistical computations is our unique database with more than 26,000 different boat types and 350,000 data points.

What is Motion Comfort Ratio (MCR)?

What is L/B (Length Beam Ratio)?

What is a Ballast Ratio?

What is Displacement Length Ratio?

What is SA/D (Sail Area Displacement ratio)?

Maintenance

When buying anti-fouling bottom paint, it's nice to know how much to buy. The surface of the wet bottom is about 23m 2 (247 ft 2 ). Based on this, your favourite maritime shop can tell you the quantity you need.

Are your sails worn out? You might find your next sail here: Sails for Sale

If you need to renew parts of your running rig and is not quite sure of the dimensions, you may find the estimates computed below useful.

This section is reserved boat owner's modifications, improvements, etc. Here you might find (or contribute with) inspiration for your boat.

Do you have changes/improvements you would like to share? Upload a photo and describe what you have done.

We are always looking for new photos. If you can contribute with photos for Sirius 28 it would be a great help.

If you have any comments to the review, improvement suggestions, or the like, feel free to contact us . Criticism helps us to improve.

Sirius 28 can

The sirius 28 can is a 28.0ft masthead sloop designed by hubert van de stadt and built in fiberglass by vandestadt and mcgruer ltd. (can) between 1982 and 1987., 120 units have been built..

The Sirius 28 can is a moderate weight sailboat which is a reasonably good performer. It is stable / stiff and has a low righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a coastal cruiser. The fuel capacity is originally very small. There is a very short water supply range.

Sirius 28 can for sale elsewhere on the web:

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1984 Vandestadt & McGruer Sirius 28

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Yanmar 1GM issues

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I am the new owner of a 1984 Sirius 28 sailboat with a Yanmar 1gm and quickly learning the previous owner did very little regular maintenance on the engine. Despite the marine surveyor who stated the boat is in good shape, I have replaced the thermostat, zinc anode, primary and secondary fuel filters, oil filter, air filter, both engine and gearbox oil, seawater intake hoses, seacock, one rusty oil line and checked the exhaust elbow for blockages (none). The hull and prop have been cleaned and I am about to have the packing replaced in the stuffing box. Although this has been a terrific learning opportunity, the engine is still giving me some concerns. The engine starts easily and will reach a max of 3100 RPM in neutral, but only 2400 RPM when in gear which will get the boat up to 6kts. The exhaust is whitish in colour and there appears to be only a low amount of water being expelled from the exhaust, although I do not know what the normal amount should be. Additionally, when accelerating quickly there is a “clanking” noise in the engine compartment – there is no noise if the acceleration is gradual. I’ve scoured the forums and internet to get some answers to no avail. I am able to perform some fairly basic repairs and would really appreciate any assistance you can provide to identifying potential reasons for the low RPM, whitish exhaust, low exhaust water outflow and “clanking” noise when accelerating quickly.  

rod bearings...the clanking happens cause you are loading up the engine...if gradual you arent pushing the engine much whitish smoke can indicate among other things coolant into oil or viceversa... there is a very similar thread here with a 2gm with similar issues except for the clanking...  

Could also be knocking caused by bad timing, if you don't have a shop manual for the engine, let me know and I can email you a link.  

I would really appreciate the link to the shop manual. I am a newbie to this forum and unable to PM you as I do not have enough posts, but are you able to PM me with the link? With thanks from your V.I. neighbour in Comox. Mike  

I think your 1gm is raw water cooled. Are you sailing in salt water? You say you replaced the thermostat- this is good. How did the cooling water passages look in the engine when you replaced tha anodes and thermostat? If they looked clogged, you can do an acid flush of the engine. The low water may be due to blocked passages. Contact a yanmar dealer and talk to them about what chemicals to use for the flush. You can do it yourself, just need to use right chems or you could damage the engine (you might need to remove t-stat and anodes during flush). Make sure the raw water suction strainer and screen on the outside of hull are clean and not causing blockage. My engine will knock if rpms are raised to fast- make adjustments slowly and change gears 900 rpm or below. I flush my raw water cooled engine with fresh water after each use to slow corrosion. You did not mention if you replaced the rubber raw water impeller- that could be your problem with low water flow. Another thing- not sure if the boat sat for a long time- might be a good idea to drain the old fuel and start with fresh diesel- small engin like that buy the fuel from a non marine source- less chance of having water in the fuel. Bad fuel can cause combustion problems.  

you shouldnt knock no matter what...changing the impeller will have no effect on that but it will help you water flow issue it also will not do anything with the smoke you are experiencing knocking in some extreme cases can be caused by carbon buildup too... the other thread I mentioned will give you clues into the possibilities of what you might have going one with yours a shop manual will go a long ways in helping you determine what course of action to take good luck  

I had a Yanmar 1GM in my Cape Dory 25D. It had about ten hours on it when I bought it and sounded like someone banging on an anvil with a hammer when it was running. Despite that, it was absolutely reliable and used so little diesel it was easy to forget to even put any in the tank.  

I have heard the 1 cylinder yanmars run a lot rougher than the multi-cyclinder. One cyclinder does not have anything to counter balance. OP- you may also want to check you engine mounts are good- lift up on the engine and see if the rubber has broken loose from the metal mount.  

I'm not totally clear what your problem is. As a few others pointed out, the 1 cylindar deisel is a loud engine. When you accelerate rapidly the engine does get louder until it gets to the requested RPM's. I'm not convinced the sound you're hearing is a problem. On the other hand not getting above 2400 rpm's is a tangible problem. It may just be that the prop is too large. 6 knots for a 28 ft boat with this engine is pretty reasonable (that's my maximum). Also note that there is a difference between the 1gm10 and the 1gm, with the 1gm10 being more common.  

Wow, that is quite the response, thank you all. So to answer a few questions, yes the boat is in salt water and after I replaced thermostat and zinc anode which were in terrible shape I believe in hindsight that some "bits" may have clogged the cooling system. As suggested I'll have a chat with Yanmar folks to find out what to use to flush it, and how to do it as all of this is new to me. After reading some more about the white exhaust I have a theory. With a low flow of water out the exhaust the small amount of water entering the hot exhaust in the exhaust elbow is creating steam. So first step is to improve the flow of raw water cooling so see if this fixes the problem. The "clanking" sound described in my OP sounds more mechanical and only occurs when in gear and accelerating quickly vice gradually to full throttle. One suggestion is that it could be rod bearings, but I hope not as this sounds like a complicated and expense repair. As for the low RPM, the original prop is still with the boat, everything has been cleaned on the hull and prop. Possibly the injector needs some TLC and or timing. Again this is a bit out of my comfort level to attempt on my own so may have to seek professional assistance.  

Paul, thank you very much for the shop manual it looks perfect for what I need and it will really help expand my limited knowledge of our little 1GM.. I would gladly accept a copy of the parts book and official Yanmar manual when you get a chance. My engine is a 1GM vice a 1GM10 so there may be some differences. Once again, thank you very, very much. Now if I can find some time in my schedule to get down to the boat to do some tinkering, I might be able to do some sailing this summer down to Denman and Hornby.  

good luck they are simple great engines...I loved my 2gm20f  

Hello, A clacking sound can be caused by a bad cutless bearing that the prop shaft goes through. If you can rev it up in neutral and not hear a noise and then do the same in gear and you go get the noise it might be the cutless. It's hard to test a cutless with the boat in the water. Lastly, I have never know of an engine with Rod knock to last more than hour or two. Barry  

tell that to my old atomic 4! jajaja little oil thickener and shed keep going some engines are fine being all lose some other no barry is right though...eliminate transmission and associated parts like shaft and cutlass bearing before attacking the engine  

Thanks again everyone, albeit the problem related to the "clanking" noise does not seem to be very good news. So it seems that it is either the rod bearing, main bearing or cutlass bearing. Any suggestions on which one is the simplest to check first? The boat is in the water and there is not a lift at the marina, although I could it on the grid if I can get the right tides and time off work.  

Cutless Hey, Do you have a fixed prop? If so you can test the cutless by sailing at a good speed, say 5 knots or so. Put the trans in neutral, the speed of the boat will cause the shaft to spin fairly quickly. If the cutless is bad you should hear the same or similar clanking sound. Put the trans in reverse and the shaft will stop and the noise should stop soon. If that happens then the cutless bearing is bad. If you only hear the clanking when the engine is running, especially when the trans is in neutral, then it's not the cutless and you will need to look further (and perhaps have a good cry). Barry  

ummmm are you familiar with basic diesels the cutlass is just the shaft tube that exits the stern tube, usually bronze with rubber inside...the best way to check that is to try and move the shaft from the outside...if there is a lot of play you need to fix that determine wether its transmission related, cutalls bearing shaft and if neither of those then start looking at engine but if its in the engine it means you have to tear it down...and not hard per se, but time consuming and a reabuild no matter what a good way is to use a screwdriver a long one and with the handle to your ear try to pinpoint the noise while the engine runs... good luck  

If the noise persists with the gearbox in neutral, it probably is not in the cutlass bearing. However, it could be in the flywheel/drive plate. As mentioned earlier, if it is a rod, wrist pin or main bearing it will likely get worse fairly soon. Paul T  

Lots of great suggestions coming in, so thank you to everyone. So there is no noise when running the engine in neutral, nor when undersail and gearbox is is neutral. It only occurs when under power and accelerating quickly. I can avoid the noise if I accelerate gradually. Therefore, by process of elimination it must be somewhere in the engine. I'm thinking it is time to seek professional advise from a marine mechanic as opening up the engine is beyond my abilities.  

You can get mask and snokel and dive on your boat. grab the prop shaft and shake it. If it moves more than 1/32 inch the cutlass bearing is worn. To replace, you will need to pull boat out of the water. If you do dive the boat, be careful of the sharp edges of prop and any barnacles growing on the boat- they cut like a knife. FWIW, my cutlass is really worn- 1/16 inch play. I will use the boat until this fall and replace, along with a lot of other work. So even with a lot of play, you can milk a bad cutlass for a while using engine rpm that don't cause a knock.  

re read what you posted... its not in the ENGINE but somewher in the tranny to shaft to stuffing box to cutlass bearing to prop area why because the engine in NEUTRAL does not make noise so please do NOT get a mechanic to start tearing down your engine side but get someone knowleadgeable on alignment shaft and tranny parts... first thing is first though dive on the boat and verify shaft is loose or not simple and free  

twomikes said: The exhaust is whitish in colour and there appears to be only a low amount of water being expelled from the exhaust, although I do not know what the normal amount should be. Click to expand...

awesome! read my last posts....  

Ask Bob Wilson on the Morning Maid to have a listen. It may be that a one banger just isn't up to quiet when asked to rev. Peter Watson on Providence is also a trustworthy source of info.  

AJA! thats a major leak...should be a drip every 10 seconds or so...I had a leak on mine but I diont have an engine hooked up anymore was that leak while in use or at standstill? does it get worse when using the engine? most definitely and engine that is misaligned will not only cause vibrations but can also cause excessive wear to the shaft, heat, and sounds from being bent and warped...if used this way for too long what happens is you often have to take the shaft out and have it balanced BUT if its too worn you need a new shaft have you used the engine like so since checking the cutlass bearing? thats a long time and if misaligned since then you can absilutely wear out even a new cutlass in that time any time you work on the shaft or engine mounts etc...you must realign...even when changing props if you are not carefull and bang on the shaft too much and stuff its easy to get it out of alignment we are definitely pinpointing the problem though good luck ps. you can do the engine alignment yourself though...feeler gauges a couple of wreches to undo the coupler and you can adjust it...  

The leak is about one drip / second when under power, and after the engine is shut down it will drip once/5secs for several days. I did some reading and have a basic understanding of how to do the engine alignment, but I do have a silly question. After loosening off the engine mounts, how do you physically move the engine to bring it back into alignment?  

I have heard a number of diesels that have a distinctive "rap", or "knock" when accelerating, especially when not thoroughly warmed up. Could be that with a single cylinder engine that noise might be more pronounced. If you could take a video with sound & put it on You Tube it would help us to offer opinions. Paul T  

hell yeah! I clearly remeber tania AEIBI complaining about how noisy her engine was...the yanmar 1 is clearly more thumping than the 2gm as is the 2gm versus the 3gm you do warm up your engine correctly right...?  

Yes the engine is warmed up and purrs like a diesel at low and high rpm when in neutral or in gear. I only hear the noise during a rapid acceleration and can prevent the noise by accelerating gradually to full power.  

vid of 1gm and 2gm on the 2gm vid you can CLEARLY hear the metallic rapping sound common to a cold diesel on startup...as you can see he starts up with full throttle and idles down, what yanmar recomends that 2gm sounded exactly like mine... does your sound similar?  

on the 2gm vid you can CLEARLY hear the metallic rapping sound common to a cold diesel on startup...as you can see he starts up with full throttle and idles down, what yanmar recomends that 2gm sounded exactly like mine... does your sound similar? Click to expand...

a rag and a big crowbar or spanner... make sure you out penetrating oil on your mounts if not get you favourite assortment of shims aka coins! jajaja from the sound of it you a little lose on the stuffing box...a quick repack and tightening should get you back in business...however there is quite a difference in the leak when running...could just be the lose packing OR enhanced and aggravated by the misalignment good luck did you check the vids? sound similar to yours or does yours sound worse?  

Yes, my Yanmar 1GM sounds identical to the one in the vid.  

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• Sailboat Guide

1987 Sirius 28

• Description

Seller's Description

The owner bought this boat in 2015

General condition and any additional information

We are Sirius boat fans. SiriusLea, what a great lake boat she is! 1987 28ft. Sirius Sailboat (Vandestadt and McGruer Ltd. (CAN) 1965 – 1987 Owen Sound) for sale in Hamilton. The Cadillac of Sirius sailboats, SiriusLea was a custom build for her first owner living and sailing out of Wiarton area on Lake Huron. Personal friends with Fraser MgGruer, one of the boat builders, the original owner appointed this boat to exemplify his position as Commodore of the local sailing club. SiriusLea has all the features, and was designed from the start to showboat the very best of Vandestadt and McGruer, boat builders among Canada’s all-time best. If you have ever used the phrase “SHOWBOAT”, SiriusLea has actually been a “SHOWBOAT”. Our first boat was a Sirius 21 swing keel, and we loved it, but what an upgrade 28’ SiriusLea has been.

SiriusLea has been a passion and working project for us since her purchase in 2015. She is presently at Hamilton Harbour Marina West. SiriusLea has been a terrific experience for us and her list of benefits is very long indeed. I will do my best to mention all them below.

Standard features

• Dodger in great condition with newly replaced vinyl windows.
• All sails are premium quality and in excellent condition, front sail has attractive blue sacrificial to protect when it is furled in, and the main sail has full batten.
• Fantastic fast cruiser sailing boat with autopilot navigation, which is an amazing feature that changes the whole sailing experience. Comes with one main sail and 2 front sails, jib and Genoa
• Engine is Yanmar 16hp diesel, which is the largest engine size they put in these boats. Engine is annually maintained and runs flawlessly, 5 knot easy cruise speed, or about 6.5 - 7 knot max.
• Deck step mast
• All premium stainless deck hardware
• Stainless rail mounted propane BBQ
• 2 Burner propane stove
• Galley and head stainless sinks with foot pump from tank water
• Cockpit Bimini sun shade
• Shore power connector and extension
• Deck side water, gas and head pump out and fills
• 8 opening windows and 1 deck hatch keep boat breezy and cool in the summer
• Internal mast and boom lines for tidy look
• Sturdy front sail furler system
• Large in counter cold storage cabinet with lots of storage room for plates, cutlery, and food
• Premium hardwood flooring throughout
• Hardwood cockpit flooring
• Navigation and radio station with fold up table extension
• High quality wood craftsmanship throughout the boat
• Best waterfront summer residence I could have ever imagined enjoying
• Stainless swim ladder with new wood steps
• Depth, speed and direction instruments
• Dockside battery charging
• Stained wood steering wheel and deck rails
• 62 standing room in spacious well laid out cabin
• Salon table lowers to make bed in couch area. Boat sleeps 4-5 comfortably.
• 2014 Fraser McGruer conducted Survey. All the points he mentioned in survey were minor things and have all been addressed. Fraser is the McGruer in Vandestadt and McGruer, the original builder.

We take good care of our toys, and SiriusLea is one of our most prized possessions. Please contact me with questions. SiriusLea though, sirius offers only.

Extra gear included

• 3.3 hp Mercury 2 stroke outboard engine, and 6 foot Mercury inflatable zodiac style dinghy. (shown in pictures)
• Boat Cradle and pads in excellent condition.
• Electric cooler that works as well as any fridge I have owned

Improvements to the hull, deck, rigging, engine, or interior

• 2016 SiriusLea went to Ontario Yachts for a new waterline to deck blue Awlgrip paint job ($17,000).
• Extensive fiberglass work done to secure and strengthen internal rudder housing better than new.
• 2 new batteries
• Wi-fi or device connectable flat screen tv.
• Head repair work and renew on hosing and flush mechanism.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

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One Hundred Choices for the Best Small Cruiser

* = Seven boats appear in above lists twice.

Listed on the opposite page are one hundred choices for the "Best Small Cruiser." There are, of course, many more than one hundred choices for the "best" small cruising sailboat. In fact, there are 360 choices reported in this guide alone, and at least a few boats beyond those, on which we failed to find sufficient data to include here. In any case, as the saying goes, one man's meat is another man's poison. That is, a sailboat that one person does not like at all can be one that someone else likes very much.

One of the main reasons for this is that different boats are designed for different purposes: boats best for cruising in shallow bay waters versus deep ocean waters, for example. Styles vary to suit different tastes: traditional versus modern design, for example. Boats that do well in around-the-buoy racing may not be so well suited to cruising. A boat built to the highest standards of quality may not suit the pocketbook of the casual weekend trailer-sailor. And the range of choices goes on and on.

To help narrow the field of choices for the reader who is eager to find the right boat to buy, and doesn't have the patience to wade through all the facts and figures on all 360 boats presented in this guide, we have (somewhat arbitrarily)

devised a hundred choices, broken into groups of a dozen or so. Are you looking for a single-masted character boat? We list thirteen of them here, from 18 to 25 feet on deck. Do you yen for a two-masted yawl or ketch? We list every one of the dozen covered in this guide. Do you prefer a custom- built boat or at least very high quality construction? We show thirteen "high-end" choices, though you could find others in these pages. We also list fifteen good cruising boats for a family of four, and another thirteen for a cruising couple without children or guests aboard. We choose fifteen round-the-buoys racers for your consideration, and a dozen blue water cruisers, including a 15-footer that has sailed from California to Hawaii (though some may not agree that such a feat qualifies such a boat for offshore work).

Although there isn't space to include photos of every boat in this book, or even the one-hundred choices listed as "best," we have dug up representative sample photos from our vast collection of boat sales brochures to include on the following pages. They are arranged in roughly alphabetical order. If you don't find a picture of the boat you're interested in, try searching Google. There's a huge cache of photos there.

Alerion Express Cat 19 (details on page 20) is a high-end cruiser designed, among other things, for easy trailering and ramp launching.

Bay Hen 21 (page 85) is a character boat that's easy to launch and trailer.

Beneteau First 26 (25) (page 323) will nicely accommodate a family of four for cruising.

Bluejacket Motorsailer 23 (page 222) is a character boat with great comfort for cruising two.

Beneteau First 235 (22) (page 152) is a good boat for a cruising couple.

Blazer 23 (page 221) is a competitive racer. The author (trimming jib) is sailing here with other writers John Rousmaniere (steering) and Freeman Pittman, tech editor at Sail magazine.

Bluejacket Motorsailer 23 interior (also see to left) is particularly comfortable when cruising in rainy weather.

Bridges Point 24 (page 275) is available either as a finished boat or a kit.

Cape Dory Typhoon 18 (19) (page 23) has enough ballast to stand up well in a blow.

Cal 20 (page 89), produced from 1961 to 1977, is still raced in several fleets around the country.

Cape Dory 25D (page 330) comes close to being the ideal trailerable cruising boat.

Capri 26 (24) (page 282) features a cabin big enough to "drink ten."

Capri 18 (page 25) was introduced in 1985 and is still being sold today.

Cheoy Lee Flyer III (25) (page 334) has a Folkboat style hull.

Catalina 22 Mk I (page 157) wins the all-time popularity prize for cruising boats.

Catalina 25 (page 332) came in a great variety of configurations.

Com-Pac 19 (page 27) was drawn by Island Packet designer Bob Johnson.

Com-Pac 25 (page 336) has an unusual volume of interior space for her length.

Cornish Crabber 17 (page 31) is elegantly finished on deck and below. Cornish Crabber 22 (page 164) sports a gaff cutter rig.

Cornish Crabber 24 (page 284) is a well-built gaff-rigged character boat.

Cornish Shrimper 19 (page 32), a character boat, has an elegant finish, but is short on headroom.

Dehler 22 (page 167) has a number of high quality features.

Dolphin 24 (O'Day) (page 285) was available either as a kit or as a finished boat.

Dehler 25 (23) (page 227) also uses a "slipway trolley."

Elite 25 (24) (page 289) is fitted out in France, and features the French style of careful interior design.

Eastsail 25 (page 340) is generally built to a customer's specifications with extended offshore cruising in mind.

ETAP 20 (page 98) is built to a high standard of quality and is unsinkable.

ETAP 23 (22) (page 169) like other ETAP boats, she is double-skinned in a foam sandwich for flotation.

Golif 21 (page 99) from France has an unusual cabin ventilation system.

Irwin 10/4 (25) (page 347), as the saying goes, can drink ten, eat six, and sleep four.

J/24 (page 294) is said to be the world's most popular one-design keelboat.

La Paz 25 (page 353) features an open cockpit for deck chairs and berths for six below.

Jeanneau Bahia 23 (20) (page 106) features a clever cabin table design.

Menger Oysterman 23 (page 237) Montgomery 15 (page 71) and is a character boat based on the Montgomery 17 (page 46) both have molded

Chesapeake Bay Skipjack. lapstrake hulls.

Marshall Sanderling 18 (page 40) has been in production for almost fifty years, and continues to be popular.

Morgan 24/25 (25) (page 358) is fast and weatherly, especially in light air.

Newman Friendship Sloop 25 (page 360) conjures romantic memories of Maine fishermen.

Nimble 24/25 (25) (page 361) was produced in several configurations, including both a sloop and a yawl rig.

New Moon 25 (page 379) can be fitted out to the customer's specifications.

Nimble 24/25 (25) (page 361) is available as a pilothouse with six feet of headroom, great for cold weather cruising.

Nimble 20 (21) (page 116) features a yawl rig, rare in a boat so small.

Nonsuch 22 (page 185) was designed with the idea of elegant simplicity.

O'Day 26 (25) (page 362) is a near sistership to the O'Day 25.

Pacific Seacraft Flicka 20 (page 120) is generally considered a very high quality product, commanding a premium price in the used boat market.

Pacific Seacraft Dana 24 (page 303) is solidly built to cruise in a bay or an ocean.

Parker Dawson 26 (page 364) has two separate cabins, and a center cockpit enclosed in canvas can be a third.

Quickstep 24 (page 306) was built by several firms, giving a choice of several accommodations plans.

Rob Roy 23 (page 246) has the makings of a classic small yacht.

Sand Hen 24 (page 308), with lightweight spars and no shrouds, should be easy to trailer and launch.

Santana 20 (page 131) was a very early entry in the "sport boat" market and is still popular.

Santana 21 (page 132), with a D/L ratio of only 86, is classified as an ultralight.

Santana 22 (page 198), an ageless design, is still popular after over 40 years.

Sea Pearl 21 (page 136) is simple, light, and shallow draft, perfect for casual beach cruising.

Seaward 25 (24) (page 310) has a sleek and salty look and is well built.

Shark 24 (page 312) has done well in racing over the years.

South Coast 23 (page 255) was converted to a yawl from a sloop (see photo bottom left).

South Coast 23 (page 255) Stone Horse 23 (page 258) is a classic shown here was built from a kit. designed over 75 years ago.

Tanzer 22 (23) (page 259) has a strong class association that promotes both one-design racing and cruising get-togethers (two views, left and right).

Terrapin 24 (25) (page 371) ^ |ike her Vancouver 25 (page 372) is well namesake, slow but comfortable. equipped for extended cruising.

Vertue II 25 (page 373) is a no-nonsense heavy cruiser made for ocean passages.

West Wight Potter 15 (page 64) has made some long distance cruises, including one from California to Hawaii.

West Wight Potter 19 (page 65) is still selling well after over thirty years of production.

Continue reading here: Authors Gallery of Photos

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Readers' Questions

What similar boat to cornish crabber 17 plans?

The Colvic Watson 25 Sailer is a similar boat to the Cornish Crabber 17. It has a traditional long keel and tiller steering. It is a roomy boat and makes a superb cruising boat for coastal and inland waters.

How is beneteau and jenneau related?

Beneteau and Jeanneau are both subsidiaries of the French group, Beneteau Group. The two brands have been part of the Beneteau Group since 2000, when Beneteau acquired Jeanneau. Both brands specialize in sailboats, motorboats, and powerboats.

Is the Com Pac sailboat considered a high end production?

No, the Com Pac sailboat is not considered a high end production boat.

What is the headroom in a dehler 25 sailboat?

The headroom in a Dehler 25 sailboat is approximately 1.85m (6 ft).

Are etap sailing boats still made?

Yes, Etap sailing boats are still made. Etap produces a wide range of sailing boat models, including the Cruiser and Cruiser Club series, the 21, 22 and 23 meters, and the Open and Weekender series. Many of the Etap sailing boats are still in production today, offering quality and innovation that continues to make them popular among sailing enthusiasts.

How many sirius 21 sailboats are still sailing?

It is difficult to accurately quantify the number of Sirus 21 sailboats that are still sailing. Most estimates place the number at around 200, though it is likely that the actual figure is higher.

Is the Sirius 21 sailboat really Unsinkable?

No. While Sirius 21 sailboats are designed to be safe and stable, no boat is truly unsinkable.

Has any one done any blue water sailing on an Eastward Ho 24' sailboat ?

No, I have not done any blue water sailing on an Eastward Ho 24' sailboat. However, I do know a few people who have owned Eastward Ho 24' sailboats, and some of them have taken them out for extended cruises, so it is possible that someone has done blue water sailing in one.

Is the rob roy 23 a bluewater boat?

No, the Rob Roy 23 is not a bluewater boat. It is more suited for inland lake and river cruising.

Is beneteau 235 unsinkable?

No, the Beneteau 235 is not unsinkable. Like all sailboats, the Beneteau 235 is susceptible to water taking on board. Water can enter the boat through a breach in the hull or through open hatches and ports.

Are compac 19 good boats?

The Compac 19 is an excellent boat that is great for short day cruises, fishing, and weekend getaways. It is often praised for its excellent maneuverability, easy handling, and low maintenance cost. The boat features a functional and reliable design, making it an attractive choice for both recreational and commercial use. Additionally, the Compac 19 has a spacious cabin, large cockpit, and ample storage for overnight trips.

How to rig sirius 21 sailboat?

Rigging a Sirius 21 sailboat is a straightforward process, but it should be done carefully to ensure the safety of the boat and its crew. Attach the mainsail halyard to the handle at the top of the mast and thread it through the mast sheave. Attach the spinnaker halyard, also known as the topping lift, to the aft side of the mast and thread it through the mast sheave. Attach the jib halyard to the clew of the jib and thread it through the mast sheave. Attach the mainsheet to the end of the boom, then attach the boom vang and the outhaul to the boom. Attach the jib sheet to the clew of the jib and run it through the pulley at the base of the mast. Attach the main and jib traveler lines to the tracks on the deck and thread them through the blocks at the mast base. Attach the mainsail to the mast and boom and the jib to the fore stay. Attach the main tack to the clew and then attach the clew to the boom. Attach the jib tack and clew to the forestay. Finally, attach all of the running rigging lines and adjust the tension as needed.

Go-anywhere deck-saloon sailboats with hand-crafted custom-built interiors. Every yacht is available with either a single fin keel, lifting-keel or twin keels, giving you the opportunity to explore new cruising grounds in comfort.

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What is the best 28 ft for the money

• Thread starter Gordon Shadburne
• Start date Nov 11, 2004
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

Gordon Shadburne

I am looking for the best- family (not racing) sailboat 28 ft (or so) for 10,000-13,000Now live in Portland,Or. will be moving to Pudget Sound- WA.area. Want it safe!,big cabin (wife has some kneee problems) good mataince record. Am missionary to Native Americans ( www.warriorsforchristonline.org ) so limited in funds-Need your input- thanksGordon/WFCps now only have a 14 ft C-lark/ sail it sence 1970-  

mike C16582

i'm biased, but.......... As I said, I'm biased, but if you can find an O"day 28 I think you'll be happy. However, $10,000-$13,000 is cutting it close. AS a matter of fact, there's an O"Day 28 for sale right now in Portland Or. for $12,900 (I'm sure the price is negotiable)here's the link for it..........http://www.yachtworld.com/core/listing/pl_boat_detail.jsp?currency=USD&units=Feet&checked_boats=1309615&slim=quick&  

Newport 28 Hello,Mike own's and likes O'day, I own and like Newport. Newport's were made in California, so lots should be available on the west cost.Compared to O'day, the Newport has a double berth in the cabin (the port sette slides out). Also, all Newport come with the traveler mounted on top of the companionway. Most Newports come with hot water, fresh water cooled diesel, and some other things as well.As far as I can tell, both the Newport and the O'day are good boats. Good luck,Barry  

John Dawson

Cal 29 or 27 probably fall into this price range, and less if needing work. Large cabins, good performance, good reputation.  

Hunter 27 for two The Hunter 27 built from 75-84 to a design by John Cherubini is just the right size for a couple. It's a seaworthy design, with 6 feet of headroom in the cabin. The bench seats in the cabin make very comfortable bunks (easily reached by stiff knees.) The ride is comfortable in a seaway, and the cockpit is comfortable, with good back support. Ours was easily rigged for single handing, so the Admiral does not need to go on deck.And the price is right - $9,000 to $12,000 will get you going. (Ours '77 cost $9,000 and was ready to sail.) At your size and price parameters, you will end up with a "good old boat" and the associated maintenance work. Do get a survey to be sure you are not buying a project, and enjoy cruising!DavidLady Lillie  

Pearson 26-28 I learned how to sail at the boston harbor sailing club where they have a fleet of pearson 26 and 28's. The members sail these boats in all kinds of new england weather through a busy harbor and scatterred islands. They are built tough sail between 5 and 6 knots, have thick fiberglass hulls and seldom break down.  

Go for a Catalina 27 *! I realize the Catalina 27 isn't a 28 footer, but I think it would be a good match for your needs. They are plentiful, within your price range, have a large cockpit, seaworthy, and have nice sailing characteristics.If you could spend the extra $5K, the O'Day 28 is a better boat - faster (but can pound), and very well finished.Having owned both boats, if price is the biggest constraint, go with the C27.-Mark  

Stu Jackson

Augie byllott.

Comfortable boat for a couple Is there anything compelling about 28'?I recently sold a 1978 Catalina 30 after enjoying it for 15 years. Those additional two feet move the comfort level light years above the Catalina 27 owned by one of my friends. The cabin fever that one may experience on a smaller boat vanishes on the C30. A larger head, vee berth, saloon, dinette, and cockpit make a world of difference where a woman's comfort is concerned.With more than seven thousand having been built, there are always hundreds of C30s on the market. With a little horse trading and jawboning, you might be able to find one in your price range.It's worth a try.If anything, I believe that a C30 is easier to sail than a C27.  

Thanks for your response Thanks for your comments. Condsidering they aren't making them anymore, do you think there are problems getting parts for the Newports?I have read that the O'day stiffens in higher winds and is more forgiving when you get into troubling times. How would compare the Newport as far as safety and structural quailty and durability?  

Newport Info Hello,A great site for Newport Info is here:http://webhost.sailnet.com/newport/index.htmlRegarding parts availability, one thing I have learned is that most parts on a sailboat don't come from the original manufacturer. For example, the engine is from Universal diesel, the steering is Edson, the winches are Lewmar, the headsail roller furler is Profurl, the bilge pump is rule, the .....What did come from from the manufacturer you can now get from the aftermarket. O'day, Pearson, CnC (for a while anyway) all went out of busines. Hunter and Catalina are still in business, but I don't think you can still buy a rudder or something like that for a Catalina 27.Good luck,Barry  

Pearson 28 HI Gordon,Don't rule out the Pearson 28. The models made before 1982 can be found quite reasonably. This boat was built very well, is strong, safe, roomy and very easy and fun to sail. We owned one for 4 years and loved it. You can get one in the price range you mention. Go to yachtworld and check them out.Joanie  

Hunter 28.5 We have an '88 model. VERY well built, no blister problems. Taken her on 3-week trips on Lake Michigan covering some 600 miles total. Have been in all kinds of weather with her and she's always brought us home safely. I often single-hand her as well.  

Hunter 28.5, Pt II I, too, own a Hunter 28.5 (1986 model). While I think Hunter packed a lot of value into this model boat, I don't think you could find one in very good condition for your price range. I do think you could find one for just a bit more (say around $15k), but you'd probably have to put some work into it and perhaps buy some new sails. I personally believe that the 28.5 is a great boat for single-handling, coastal or river/lake cruising with a small family in a semi-protected environment, or similar sailing. But in the price range you mention, most of the listed 28 or so footers are going to be in the 1978-1982 or so age group. Any boat that is 25 or so years old needs to be VERY carefully inspected, by you and a professional surveyor as it could be subject to a number of conditions that could be expensive or prohibitive to repair. In the interim, you may want to take a look at Don Casey's book "Inspecting The Aging Sailboat." It will give you a better sense of how to evaluate some of the candidate boats you may look at. It's a buyer beware world out there....  

Gordon, The best 28 is a Catalina 28 and because of that they are very expensive. The next best and most boat for the money is a Hunter 28... not a Hunter 28.5. The Pearson 28 is the next best followed by the Hunter 28.5.The main reason for the rating is the walk through swim platform offer by both the Catalina 28 and the Hunter 28! Great for the family getting on and off the boat and into the water. The construction of the Catalina is better than the Hunter. The Pearson construction is also better than Hunter. I own a Hunter 28 and love the boat! I took a long time reviewing which boat to buy. Everyone will tell you they love thier boat. I do too but a Catalina is better!  

This thread could go on for ever We all bought our current boat for one reason or another price,walk through transomes,loyalty to the brand and so on and we all could come up with reason's as to why. So asking a question like the best 28 footer for the money and you will get a different answer from each of us. So it is not really a fair question to ask because your best 28 footer for the money may not be mine. Taken in what your needs are all the boats mentioned would work. They are all great boats and have ther good and bad. But it all comes down to YOU and the $$$. Keep in mind that in this price range you will be buying a 30 year + boat. That will need upgrades and might have a gas engine or an out board. Look for the right deal and keep in mind the survey could eat up 5% of your boat money. So it is tough to say which boat is the best for you and your needs. Also keep in mind that your wife will need to climb all over the boat and up and down into the cabin bad knees and all. So a boat with wide side deck's might be a consideration over a boat with narrow side decks. Plus the climbing of the steps of 5 or 6 steps to get down below. It will really comne down to looking at allot of boat's and seeing which boat fit's the needs. Your price range will limit you and might force you into buying a older boat than maybe you had thought and also throw in the location. Boats on the West Coast seem to bring more for the same boat on the East Coast. Cliff  

Finding and buying your boat Having contributed my 2 cents on our own model, here is my recommendation on how to buy a boat:In your price and size range, you are loooking for a "good old boat." Many of us own these great models from the 70's and early 80's. In general, they have great cruising designs, overbuilt hulls (because this was before anyone really understood fiberglass), and may involve some maintenance. (Although we sailed Lady Lillie through her first summer, 500 miles, and 22 nights on board as we bought her.)Look at lots of boats in your price range. This will be the hardest part for your wife's knees, but after a while you will settle on a few designs you like, and you can look without her until you find the one you want. Lay down in all the berths you might use. Sit in the cockpit. Stand in the galley, and go through the motions of preparing food and washing dishes. Sit on the head. Go forward from sitting in the cockpit along the decks to the bow. Don't worry about the model, you will figure out which ones you like. Consider using a local agent who is supportive of your wishes (not trying to seelyou up to a higher price,) and can arrange to get you on a lot of boats.Buy one of the good books on this site that describe how to buy a cruising sailboat. Read the reviews on this website. 28 footers were not commonly built in the '74-'85 range you need for your price, so look at the 27 and 30 footers. The boats for sale on this and other sites can get you started, and help you understand pricing.Find _your_ surveyer. Ask other sailers who is the most competent and trustworthy in your area. This is imporatnt because a good survey allows you to understand 80% to 90% of the maintenance you will be doing in the first years of boat ownership. You contract must include the survey, and your right to walk away or negotiate a price reduction based on the survey results.Take your time. Many boats will come on the market in the next six months, and you can find the one with just the characteristics you want and like.Our search took about 6 weeks during which we climbed into about 10 boats on the hard (and in the ice and snow.) We came down to a choice between a Catalina 30 at $18,000, and a Hunter 27 at $9,000. We checked with the marina near our house, and they said that the 5 1/2 foot draft of the Catalina was too deep for the marina. We bought the '77 Hunter 27, and have loved her.The cabin has headroom to 6 feet. The diesel will drive us all day through calm seas, but is a little small if we are bucking wind and waves (something we try always to plan, or wait around.) There is plenty of room and comfort for the Admiral and me. We sleep in the v-berth, where 5' 11" and 5' 8" means that we play footsie occasionally, but are both very comfortable. The bench berths in the main cabin easily and confortably accommodate my two brothers who go a large 6' 2". The accommodations are ideal for me and my wife. We have spent two weeks on her, and could easily go a month. Although tight and familiar, my Dad, brothers and I have cruised a week on her, and we are quite comfortable. I believe that we would have been just as happy on the Catalina 30, but shoal draft is a real value for some of the ports, and anchorages of Lake Erie when the water is low. I really don't believe there is any clear choice of one model. Any of those mentioned so far (and a number of others) could be your boat.Your boat is out there, near you. Educate yourself, and invest in climbing aboard enough to find the fit for you. If the workmanship is good enough to last 20 to 30 years, and pass your survey, you don't have to worry about your time on her. Do it, you will love the joys of cruising - anyway, we do.DavidLady Lillie  

Plan for incidental costs If your budget is tight, look out for the costs that you may have in getting your boat to its new home and making it yours. In addition to the survey and cost of a sea trial (we paid for a marina worker to sail the boat at the sea trial), we paid to have the mast taken down, truck to our lake, put the mast up. Altogether, it was about $1,800 with survey and sea trial included.We bought a 27' Starwind (1984) and then put another $1,400 into re-upholstering everything, including new foam for all cushions. Then I needed to replace a halyard and a main sheet, buy new dock lines and hardware for the slip, another $400 at West Marine for stuff, new sails maybe next year ... you get the picture.We looked at about 8 boats over a couple weeks and we were anxious to find one before the summer ran away from us this year. We noticed a big difference in the comfort factor between the Cal 2-27 and our boat compared to the others which were all 26' or less. So you are certainly looking for the right size.You can put a lot of emphasis on all the practical elements of a boat, but for me, it mainly comes down to how does she make you feel to look at her for the first time (and every other time thereafter). Everytime I look at her, I'm happy with what we bought. I don't think you can be happy with a boat if you don't feel that emotion. Then, you just better be prepared emotionally to walk away if the survey reveals problems that you're not prepared financially to overcome.My wife and I had that feeling for 2 boats ... first for the Cal, which slipped away because we didn't make an offer quick enough. We looked longingly at ads for a few Catalinas that were just out of reach for what we wanted to spend on our first boat.Luckily, I think we are very happy with the Starwind because it has many features and layout differences that make it a better boat for us.Take a good look around, use as much time as you need ... when you find her, you'll know it!  

Seafarer I have 2 Seafarer 30 footers. They were designed by McCurdy and Rhodes in 1978. Its a VERY safe, heavy duty and large for its length boat. There is a very good and active forum for these (one reason I bought one).I want to sell one (I bought the 2nd one for the trailer it was on and the 9 sails that came with it as well as having a back up in case I needed anything).The boat was one of the few to survive Ivan intact, and with no damage to it (except rubrail scuffing). The owners group had a mould made for the rubrail, so a new one is available inexpensively.It has a 23 hp Volvo 2 cylinder diesel that has 360+ or- hours, and looks almost new(the engine and tranny).The baot needs a good cleanup (from being stored and unused) recover upholstery, varnish brightwork, etc and the installation of the engine (i would do for additional cash).I want $4500.00 for it, as is.Look at yachtworld for Seafarer Swiftsure 30. Also compare hullspeed, quality of construction, and owners comments. This is a GREAT deal and very safe if you don't mind cleaning a little and upholstering it to your wifes tastes.let me know if interested.Tommy[email protected]  

What about the Columbia 8.3? Any reason the Columbia 8.3 wasn't mentioned? This appears to be a well built cruiser/club racer that should be in the price range.  

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Sirius 40 DS – tested and reviewed

A hugely capable cruiser that dares to be different, with double-deck living.

Verdict: If I was planning to sail around the world and live aboard, the Sirius 40 DS is the yacht I would go for. She’s solid, meticulously thought out, extremely comfortable to live with and superbly finished.

The ‘eye-level’ concept in the cockpit and saloon and double-decker accommodation both work a treat, making sailing a much more sociable activity. The only real question mark here is that 90 per cent of us don’t use our yachts for bluewater cruising and all those ingenious touches are frankly a bit wasted on a weekender. That said, you will have the most comfortable and individual weekender around.

Performance: 4/5 Bluewater: 5/5 Comfort: 5/5

From £296,000

sirius-werft.de

Brutalist presence

Sirius has become the absolute specialist when it comes to deck saloon yachts. The 40 is the newest and largest of the Sirius range, and was designed by Marc-Oliver von Ahlen. His previous work with now-defunct boatbuilder Etap showed that he is a designer happy to think differently and this is certainly the case with the Sirius 40. She is a thoroughly modern yacht, which errs toward the angular, ‘Brutalist’ style that Hanse favours. All photos: Javier Sarda

Bluewater practice

Founder Peter Schmidt's son Torsten takes a most meticulous approach to boatbuilding and now runs the business. After commissioning the first Sirius 40, he spent 11½ weeks sailing and living aboard her to pick up on any faults. At present there are 18 different layout options available even for the 310 DS – the baby of the range.

Double-deck living

Step into the saloon via the patio-door-style companionway offset to starboard and you’re in for a welcome surprise, for there is more space than you could ever imagine possible on a 40ft monohull. The whole concept of this yacht was to get away from the need to go ‘down below’ and retreat into an interior divorced from the deck. The idea here is that everyone stays at the same eye-level whether they are sitting steering the boat, or reading in the saloon. Aside from adding space and light, the high deckhouse means that stability in the event of a knockdown is greatly improved. This is one of those rare yachts with no angle of vanishing stability.

Precise engineering and finish

The single steering pedestal can be canted to port or starboard, eliminating the need for twin helming positions, giving you the best of both worlds. The overall feel is already of quality and that nothing has been overlooked. Everything snaps into place with military precision, while the beautifully-finished cockpit table – which houses the liferaft, incidentally- is a really substantial structure.

Slutter rigs

The rig is a powerful 9/10ths fractional affair and because the Sirius is built with a self-tacking headsail as standard, the mast has been stepped well aft – making the yacht more balanced. Nevertheless, it is the big, fully-battened mainsail that does much of the work to push this heavy yacht along. The recommended configuration is therefore to have the self-tacker and a larger genoa on a short bowsprit. This set-up is gaining in popularity and is technically known as a ‘slutter’ rig .

Sirius-Werft 40 DS spec

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